Saturday, April 30, 2011

An Teallach

Peaks: Sail Liath (954m/3130ft), Corrag Bhuidhe (1040m/3412ft), Lord Berkeley's Seat (1030m/3379ft), Sgurr Fiona (1060m/3478ft), Bidean a'Ghlas Thuill (1062m/3484ft)
Area: Fisherfield, Wester Ross

Another contender for the title of Britain's finest peak, this was a lucky bonus squeezed into three hours during our journey home from Assynt. I was considering running up Cul Mor, but the weather was so perfect (despite a strong wind) that the lure of An Teallach was too strong. The family went in search of breakfast and I started running from Corrie Hallie, passing numerous groups on their way up and soon had the entire ridge to myself in perfect weather - a special treat. I followed the Shenavall path a little too far, missing the turn for the lochan, and therefore had to strike up untracked terrain to gain the summit of Sail Liath in 70 mins. Superb crystal-clear views in all directions: through the magnificent wilds of Fisherfield to Beinn Dearg Mor, A'Mhaighdean and Slioch. But the imminent delights of Corrag Bhuidhe were what really held my attention. I jogged down to the little col, wind howling through the gap, before gaining another easy peak. From here, a narrow horizontal ridge gains the steepest part of the scramble. I took this up a groove with good holds and some bridging, around Diff, to easy terrain and the top of the first pinnacle. The ridge is wonderful, enjoyable easy sandstone scrambling throughout, very reminiscent of grit, weaving its way up and across a series of towers. The highpoint of Corrag Bhuidhe is obvious, marked with a cairn, and is gained by another easy scramble along the crest. The only disappointment was the skirting path, the mere presence of which rather dilutes the pleasure of being on the crest of the ridge, even if you keep to it throughout. The finale is provided by Lord Berkeley's Seat, which is a tiny summit overhanging the corrie of Loch Toll an Lochain. From here, easy running up the still enjoyable - but no longer dramatic - ridge gains the top of Sgurr Fiona. Great sun-drenched views in all directions: Coigach, Torridon, Poolewe (memories of 2005), but especially notable is the classic view back over the An Teallach ridge itself. I was running out of time, however, and continued the run over the second key peak (Bidean a'Ghlas Thuill - 2 hrs to here as I'd inevitably slowed on the scramble) and down to the next col, which provides a fine steep descent. I pelted down here, running almost flat out, not wanting to keep the family waiting. The path stays reasonably clear until the final jungle bash to the road: 3:13 for the full round. The children demanded lunch, so I drove in sweaty clothes and muddy fell running shoes straight to Dingwall and got changed in Tesco carpark!

Friday, April 29, 2011

Glen Leirig run

Another remarkable morning: cloudless sky, perfect clarity of light, views over Handa and Foinaven from the breakfast table. A rest day was in order, so I ran from the cottage along the road eastwards to the path towards Tumore, through Glen Leirig. This was a delight, with the western wall of Quinag towering above. I continued to the lonely shores of Loch an Leothaid - an impressive body of water - and just drank in the view for a few minutes. Rather nice not to be rushing around for once. I ran back to Nedd, and we all walked to Drumbeg for lunch at the viewpoint. Extraordinarily tranquil: close views of Red Throated Divers, and distant views of yesterday's destinations - Ben Stack and Handa.

Thursday, April 28, 2011

Ben Stack

Peak: Ben Stack (721m/2365ft)
Area: Reay, Sutherland

We could see this peak from our bedroom window, and it therefore became an essential addition to the holiday. It seemed obvious from the map that it would work as a very short rest day jog, although I didn't know anything about the routes up it. A great excuse to head even further north, though, into the wonderful scenery of Reay around Loch Laxford. In contrast to previous days, the cloudbase was quite low, covering Foinaven and Arkle, but just about revealing Ben Stack as a surprisingly impressive pyramidal peak as we rounded Laxford. The Cnicht of Scotland, I'd say! The children decided not to walk up to Loch na Seilge from Loch Stack, so I just guessed the route and ran up the hill as fast as I could, although yesterday's outing was still in my legs. Quick running leads to Loch na Seilge, before a boggy path over a plateau gains the steepish NW ridge, which made my Cnicht comparison even more persuasively. The path weaves through several rocky outcrops to gain a nice little grass ridge on the summit in 35 mins from the car. Some light mist playing around, but I did get views over Foinaven (which also looked great from our cottage and demands a return visit), Quinag, Loch Stack and Loch Laxford from a little lower down. Wild, largely uninhabited country. Jogged back to the car, wrenching my achilles again, in 25 mins, to make a pleasing sub-hour trip. A memorable trip to Handa Island in the afternoon made for another splendid day.

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Ben More Assynt

Peaks: Conival (987m), Ben More Assynt (998m), South Top (960m)
Area: Assynt, Sutherland

These peaks are far more subtle and elusive than their more famous (but lower) neighbours to the west. They provided an equally memorable day, however. I left the cottage at 6.30am, in order to be back for lunch, in the best weather so far. Not a breath of wind, not a cloud in the sky as I left Inchnadamph for the long run up eastwards up the Gleann Dubh. The track gives way to a very pleasant and runnable path - cool, almost cold, in the depths of the glen at this time in the morning. After yesterday's rest, I made very rapid progress up the steep and boggy track leading to the mini-amphitheatre below Coire a'Mhadaidh. With an azure sky above, and white shattered quartzite forming the rock walls below the col, this felt distinctly Provencal! A tiny scramble through the headwall made the comparison even more forcefully and put me in mind of several Pre-Alpes outings. I emerged on the broad col, before more rocky terrain slowed the pace to a jog. A false summit brought the awkward terrain to a temporary halt and led to brilliant and exhilarating running along a grassy but sharp ridge to the summit of Conival (80 mins from road). A cloud inversion to the east and north, with Ben Hope notable. Perfect clarity over Quinag and Coigach. A really memorable jog along the bouldery and awkward ridge followed. I had the entire range to myself, again, and the morning light was stunning. Ben More Assynt feels remote, and is certainly quite far from any road: the land to the east is particularly wild. It seemed a terrible shame to reverse the route, as is apparently conventional. I dislike retracing steps at the best of times, and rejected the idea as soon as I saw the South Ridge of Ben More - which led enticingly to another top. This was a great decision, as the South Ridge gives a lovely mild scramble in a truly remote situation: the essence of mountain enjoyment. A couple of little slabs but generally just a narrow ridge poised between two wild cwms. Grassy running then led up to and over the South Top, before steep terrain makes a descent impossible until the col below Conbhairean, the next peak. I still descended too early, though, and was faced with very steep terrain for which some care, and weaving around, was demanded. I gained the shores of Dubh Loch Mor, a fabulous isolated spot with the song of ring ouzels all around. Hot sunshine now, as I contoured round to gain the obvious narrow bwlch between Conival and Breabag, following deer tracks for much of the way. Great running led through this to the top of the Allt a'Bheallaich and views of Canisp and Loch Assynt. Lower down I regained Gleann Dubh and the outward route, where I encountered the first people I'd seen all morning. A rather lengthy 3:50 for the round, explained perhaps by the tricky terrain. Back at the cottage before midday, however, to spend the afternoon at Clashnessie beach and Stoer.

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Stac Pollaidh

Eve was very keen to do this peak after a full day out in Ullapool. Having done the main summit in 2005, and remembering its tricky final tower, I restricted her to the Eastern summit despite her desire to get to grips with the 'spikey bits'. We both enjoyed the trip immensely, and she only tired on the section of steps below the initial shoulder. I carried her for 100m or so before losing strength! She virtually ran up the final steep staircase to the little scramble. A memorable tea break on the Eastern summit: just lovely to introduce her to proper mountains for the first time. Superb clarity of light giving wonderful views across Coigach, the Hebrides, the Summer Isles and north to the previous days peaks: Suilven and Quinag.

Monday, April 25, 2011

Suilven

Peaks: Caisteal Liath (731m/2399ft), Meall Mheadhonach (701m/2300ft)
Area: Assynt, Sutherland

Arguably the finest peak in Britain, this was more or less compulsory given the location of the cottage. It's a long way from the road, which adds to the appeal, and it is eminently suitable for a running approach, particularly as an excellent stalker's path leads right into the heart of the wild country of the Glencanisp Forest and gives access to the mountain. I left the roadhead after another tortuous drive and ran past a series of lakes formed by the Abhainn na Clach Airigh. The morning cloud was breaking up superbly and this marvelous peak changes shape continually as you get closer to it. After 40 minutes of running, I struck off to the south over a series of boggy rises to a superb view of Canisp over the wild and remote Loch na Gainimh. After skirting a smaller loch, I attacked the Bealach Mor - although was forced to slow to a walk for this section. It is relentlessly steep but gives very quick access to the col between the peaks. Sudden, superb views south over the peaks of Coigach. An excellent twisting path leads via some mild scrambling to the dome-like main summit of Caisteal Liath: 99 minutes from the road. As the peak rises in isolation from the surrounding plateau of rock and water, it gives tremendous views in all directions. A cold wind blew, and I hurriedly got into my gilet to enjoy a rare two minute banana break. Lochinver looked very distant and I doubted my ability to get back for lunch, as promised, particularly if I was to bag Meall Meadhonach first. Indeed, despite all the wonderful distant views it is this sharp sister peak that really grabs the attention. Its spire complements the dome of Caisteal Liath and it was clearly unmissable (although most people bizarrely seemed to do just that), so I jogged down to Bealach Mor and continued running up the grassy ridge opposite. This levels to become a perfect platform leading to a short rocky descent and 'breche' before the final scramble which leads enjoyably to a little wall which demands a moment's thought. A great summit, which I had to myself, with magnificent views back along the ridge and down to the coast. Perfect clarity, with all the cloud gone. Canisp and Stac Pollaidh notable from here. I ran back down the ridge after descending the awkward wall, past a tame ptarmigan, and jogged down the steep gully before quickening the pace back down the stalker's path all the way to the pie shop in Lochinver in time for lunch (3:15 in total).

Sunday, April 24, 2011

Quinag

Peaks: Spidean Coinich (764m/2508ft), Centre Top (745m/2448ft), Sail Gharbh (808m/2653ft)
Area: Assynt, Sutherland

Our first morning in Sutherland started with persistent drizzle. I'd enjoyed a jog around the area yesterday, after arriving, but was keen to get some proper exercise after the long drive. After a short wet walk to Lochan Dubh above our cottage in Nedd, the rain began to clear at lunchtime. We headed east along the tortuous road to the top of the main Kylesku-Ullapool road, keen to salvage something from the day and get the trip off to a worthwhile start. Quinag was the obvious choice for a first outing, as the area's 'signature peak' (actually more like a mountain range in miniature). Its western wall dominates Nedd, but it is equally impressive, although very different in character, from the east. I pledged to complete the circuit of the main peaks from here in less than two hours while the family visited Ardvreck. The clouds were clearing beautifully as I ran up the broad, rocky eastern ridge of Spidean Coinich, reaching the top in 35 mins from the road. The ridge ahead is a tasty prospect from this fine summit, and I wasted no time getting to grips with it. Steep but runnable terrain leads down to a grassy ridge, followed by a quick runnable climb to a 713m mini-summit, then another steeper narrowish ridge to the Bealach a Chornaidh. From here, a steep but surprisingly easy and very brief climb leads up to another unnamed summit at 745m, before a superb broad and runnable ridge to the highpoint of the range at Sail Garbh (1 hour from the road). Superb views over the Quinag range, across to the tremendously characterful summits of Suilven, Canisp and Conival, and down to Loch Nedd and the rest of the coast. Still rather hazy but improving all the time. We were in for a great week it seemed! I retraced steps down the ridge before plunging down an obvious path to Lochan Bealach Chornaidh and enjoying superb running in the sunshine - surrounded by the peaks of Quinag which here form an impressive pseudo-cirque, and accompanied by the evocative call of a golden plover - back to the car, arriving 1h 48m after leaving. A family walk around Loch na Gainmhich followed.

Thursday, April 21, 2011

Clwydian run

After three days in London it was nice to be able to relax in beautiful spring weather. I'd squeezed in a longish 11m Clwydian run with Jez last Friday, and (keen to finally get some decent training done) followed this up today with a 10 miler from Cadole along to Cilcain, then up to the ridge at Dywyll and along to Famau and down via the usual Friday ascent.

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Tbilisi run

Not the most ideal city for running in, but I finally found myself with a bit of free time this afternoon during a four-day trip to Georgia. Mount Mtatsminda dominates Tbilisi and was a very obvious objective, and after finding a tortuous route through the winding cobbled streets above Rustaveli Avenue, I stumbled across the group of monasteries that I was aiming for. Here a very long sequence of stairs twists through the woods below the defunct funicular to the Soviet TV tower at the top of Mtastsminda. I couldn't help wondering whether I was the first person to use this route as fell running training. The weather had cleared by the time I got to the top: great views east towards the semi-desert and wine regions. The peaks to the west were snow-covered, unsurprisingly after sleet in Tbilisi yesterday, and the hills above Mskreta (visited on Tuesday) looked appealing. Seemed a shame to leave the country after seeing so little of it: will return to take in the High Caucasus some day.

Saturday, April 09, 2011

Llantysilio fell race

Race: Llantysilio mountain race (6.2m/2100ft/AM)
Time/Position: 58:33 (10th from 92 [3rd V40])

For some reason, this was the only local race that I'd never done. Another stunning day, so the children entered the earlier 'lollop', with E particularly enjoying the little circuit around a farm. The main race takes a logical circuit from the Rhewl side of these superbly runnable hills, starting in the village itself. It curves over towards a vague ridge then levels off after a steep climb. One group of 7 or 8 runners went clear, leaving a big gap to a second group. This group stayed together for the flat section across fields before climbing up to Moel Morfydd. I still feel some way off the pace, although the injuries are slowly clearing, but at least I seem to be climbing OK now. I put a bit of a spurt on across Moel y Gaer, feeling quite good for the first time in months. The route follows the main ridge to Gamelin, which always gives great running. Quite hot, easily the hottest conditions I've raced in since last summer, but fantastic clear views in all directions. I managed to pull away a bit on the climb to Gamelin, because I knew I'd descend back to the valley slowly. I wrenched my calf badly at one point, when a patch of heather twisted it to the side. But I gradually ran it off, and the dry conditions replaced the pain with a different variety by giving me a monster blister to contend with on the long descent. Narrow sheep tracks lead to a steep road back to the village. A walk along the river to Llangollen for lunch was a nice way to warm down.

Friday, April 08, 2011

Gwynant climbs

Crag: Clogwyn y Wenallt, Nant Gwynant
Routes: Oxo (VS 4b,4c:led p.1)
Crag: Craig Penmaen Brith, Nant Gwynant
Routes: Excalibur (VD:led)

Another perfect spring day, with Nant Gwynant at its tranquil best. I've wanted to visit Clogwyn y Wenallt for some time, as it is such an eye-catching crag from the road. We walked in around the lake, delightful, and I began the slightly wet first pitch of Oxo. Large holds on wet, black rock lead rightwards to a flake. A delicate move up a short wall gives access to a slightly precarious gangway, which continues the traverse rightwards to another short wall. A steepish move up this gains a good finishing hold and the obvious ledge: a nice 30m pitch. After the easy slab middle pitch, Vic led an awkward top pitch up a steep crack with a surprisingly hard final move to a ledge, then a short traverse right on lichenous rock. We then took the direct finish, rightly given 5a in the old Williams guide, up a steep reachy crack to better finishing holds. A good route, quite sustained and certainly not the soft touch I'd half expected. Took us a while, so after lunch we ambled along the lakeside in stunning weather conditions: perfect clarity of light, barely a ripple on the lake, hardly anyone around. We emerged at Penmaen brith, a mossy crag of slatey rock hidden in a copse and probably the least suitable choice for a day like today. Particularly as the only clean line was the deep cleft taken by Excalibur. This is really a thrutch for a wet day, as it goes up an awkward chimney to a ledge with jammed boulders. It then climbs a huge oak tree to gain a pleasant rib which leads to the top. Beautiful views of the lake, as this crag is located near the water's edge. However, it was not the most successful climbing day I've ever had, so we continued the circuit of the lake before enjoying the sunshine outside the Bryn Tyrch.

Sunday, April 03, 2011

Llanbedr to Blaenafon fell race

Race: Llanbedr to Blaenafon fell race, Gwent (15m/4500ft/AL)
Peaks: Crug Mawr, Sugarloaf, Blorenge
Time/Position: 2:37:21 (14th from 116)

A classic race run in perfect clear spring weather: a real treat. I knew I didn't have the distance in my legs as I haven't run 'long' since the Rab last September, and I haven't done a true AL since 2009. However, we decided to make a weekend of it and hope my various injuries didn't play up. The recent cycling/running replacement strategy must have paid some dividends in terms of endurance as it went quite well. A carload of us left for the start in Blaenafon: the race takes off down a cobbled track before surprisingly runnable contouring tracks lead gradually to the breezy top of Crug Mawr. Great views north over the Black Mountains with the morning mist all gone, probably 12 years since I last visited that area. Deliberately took it easy for the long descent into Cwm Beusych, before crossing Grwyne Fawr for more gently rising paths leading to a fine ridge up the Sugar Loaf. Again, surprisingly runnable. Acquired an infuriating stitch on the descent into St Mary's Vale, multiple chances to get lost here, before even trickier 'urban nav' through the edge of Abergavenny, over the Usk, to a sidelane leading up to water and snacks at Llanfoist. This road section was really tough for me given recent injury problems, and I knew I needed to eat something before the final brutal slog up the Blorenge. I downed a gel saved from last week's Cheshire Cat and began to feel ill almost immediately. But it was never bad enough to stop me maintaining a steady chug up this famously steep hill - surprisingly gaining a couple of places. After leaving the woods, the path gets steeper and steeper until you are literally on your hands and knees for the final section. This gains the plateau summit of Blorenge, after which it's a fair distance to the finish. I concentrated on keeping my position, and did so despite getting lost in upper Blaenafon looking for the rugby club. So the first race of the Welsh Champs is in the bag: hopefully I'll be able to get a bit faster for the rest. A tremendous event, with very varied rural/industrial scenery: the essence of South Wales in microcosm for the weekending North Walian.