Saturday, April 25, 2015

Three Peaks fell race

Race: Three Peaks fell race, Yorkshire (38km/5300ft/AL)
Peaks: Pen y Ghent (691m), Whernside (728m), Ingleborough (723m)
Time/Position: 4.08 (258th from 1000)
As I'd only done a couple of two hour runs in training, having concentrated (as usual) on short road runs all winter, I knew my options were limited today. Given the lack of mileage and recent weeks away from running, my only chance was a slow, steady plod all the way round, which is exactly what I did. Great training for the forthcoming hill running season though, and a classic route which marked its 61st anniversary this year. I last did the famous circuit in early May 1988, as an 18-year-old student hillwalker. It took me over eight hours (which I seem to remember being quite pleased with, as the normal 'challenge time' for walkers is 12 hours!). So despite my shamefully slow pace today, at least it was half my teenage time at well over double the age! After several weeks of perfect spring weather and unbroken sunshine, it was particularly unlucky to be starting in steady rain from Horton in Ribblesdale. A gentle plod up the runnable tracks to Pen y Ghent, then we were into the mist and bitter windchill as we climbed above 600m. Dibbed on the summit checkpoint, then an excellent descent - first grass then tracks across Horton Moor led to a very long almost level run over several miles of open country to High Birkwith. Heavy rain at times on this section, with the second peak Whernside largely obscured by mist but disconcertingly distant. More very runnable terrain led to wet cobbled tracks, now in the Ribble valley, and eventually a long road section to the Ribblehead viaduct. It did occur to me how good this would have been if I was in marathon training and had the legs for it. As it was, a slow plod had to suffice. The infamous slog up Whernside was something of a relief as a result. In fact, I started to make up some places and really enjoyed the very steep finish up the eastern slopes. Felt good for the long descent to Chapel le Dale. This is probably the most scenic part of the run, and despite the rain and mist, I vaguely remembered it from 1988. It had been very cold on Whernside, so it was nice to have warmed up again. A long trot past various caves and sinkholes, classic limestone scenery, led to the very steep climb up a rocky staircase to gain the east ridge of Ingleborough. Again, I found this a relief from the running and made up some places. On the ridge, the weather closed in: a very cold wind blew in a heavy hail shower. This turned to wet snow on the summit plateau. My face froze as I ran into the headwind, which turned into a helpful (but cold) tailwind for the very long (4 mile+) descent via Sulber. This is tough on the legs but my snail's pace earlier in the day allowed me to keep the same slow plod going to the finish back in the village. A classic route, shame I couldn't do it justice. That said, the slow pace rendered it much more enjoyable than any attempt to race would have been.

Thursday, April 23, 2015

Penmaenhead climbing

Crag: Penmaenhead, Colwyn Bay
Routes: Ryan's Route (f6a+:led), Clwyd MC (f6a+:sec), Big up the Lizard (f5+:sec), Tan y Lan Kids (f5:sec), Richard II (f6a+:sec), Snowdrop (f6a+:led), Retirement Day (F6a+:sec), Tunnel Vision (f6a+:led*)
A period of superb spring weather: clear skies, cherry blossom, cool nights. But few opportunities for getting out climbing and exploiting any latent 'form' (I use the term loosely) I may have after Spain. So this evening trip - perhaps my fifth trip to this crag below the old Hotel 70 Degrees in Old Colwyn - was a brief bonus. Went for the Expressway wall, partly because I haven't done any routes on it before but also because a group of teenagers lurked below the other walls. It is a strange place to climb, directly above the A55, but the routes are pretty good and the setting sun lit the crag to perfection as I started out up Ryan's Route at 6a+. This turned out well: a nice route, neatly sustained at the grade. Some technical moves up the lower half of the wall, small finger ledges and good friction, led to a long reach and an awkward rest. From here, the route steepens into a groove with good holds which leads to a juggy finish. Good climbing, the grade bang on at 6a+. The route to its left lacks independence but gives good climbing: more sustained than its partner and quite high in the grade. Hard moves away from the second bolt - quite technical and thought-provoking. A good start, so we moved down to the flowstone for Hayley's lead up the 5+ which I've done a few times before. She polished this off comfortably, and we did all three routes. Richard II has a particularly hard move by the second bolt: at least f6b briefly, moving right blindly on tiny holds. The rest is easier - too disjointed. I then led Snowdrop, another f6a+, on the Railway Tunnel Wall, with the sun dipping behind the Orme. This packs a lot of varied climbing into 11 metres! Up a flake crack, quite easy, to ledges and jugs. All going well until I went right after the final bolt, falling from the small crimps. Left is steep but considerably easier - nice positive crimps to the lower-off. Good route, especially given its brevity. A couple of other routes at a similar grade: disappointed to find my strength failing at the top of Tunnel Vision - we found the top move baffling at the grade.

Wednesday, April 22, 2015

Wrexham border league

Race: Wrexham 4m+ (Border League race 7)
Time/Position: 22.32 (18th from 268)
Five weeks since my last race, with little or no speed training, so I was quite concerned about whether I could maintain any kind of pace tonight. I'd also been suffering from a bit of jet lag since coming back from Japan, but last night slept solidly for the first time so had few excuses. I had a flier on this course two years ago - and was unsurprisingly over half a minute down on that time tonight. Nevertheless, I felt quite good: starting very conservatively, worried I might blow at any moment, but then gaining some confidence and picking up the pace for a decent last two miles. Finished second V40 for the season, for the third or fourth (and final, before moving up a category) time! More importantly, Buckley won the Veterans trophy after coming in to this final race with a very slender lead over Wallasey (and we finished 3rd in Division 1, same as last season).

Tuesday, April 14, 2015

Inari hill run

A criminally brief visit to Kyoto, the epicentre of Japanese culture. Sadly, the torrential rain that started last night in Kurashiki continued today: all day. Still, I was determined to make the best of it so headed to Inari and the famous Fushimi Inari Taisha. Despite the rain, large numbers of tourists were at the lower temple, and the lower part of the famous and very photogenic alleys of torii - the traditional orange gates that continue all the way up the mountain, tens of thousands of them all with Japanese inscriptions. After the first few hundred metres I could tolerate the tourists no longer and found a side path through the woods. This was runnable and led past wonderful bamboo forests and a number of shrines to a plateau: no people at all! It took a while, and the rain stayed torrential, so I dropped back to the torii path and continued upwards. The volume of people soon dropped away after I reached a small lake. From here, steep paths (still flanked by the orange torii) led up Mount Inari. Good, if unconventional, training for the fell running season. I descended by a different route to Inari station then had a long walk round the eastern hills, lanes and temples of Kyoto. The rain stayed relentless throughout.

Sunday, April 12, 2015

Yufu mountain run

An attempt to run up Mount Yufu from the delightful Kyushu hot springs resort of Yufuin during a week-long visit to Japan that began on the southernmost island. The conventional way up the peak involves a bus journey up to a higher launch point, but the mountain is such a handsome objective from the town's main street that I tried to go direct from the station. The plan was to get up and down the twin-headed summit before my return train. This was far too ambitious, and I didn't make the top in time, but I had a great run nevertheless. I jogged through the town and out towards the open countryside and the hill itself, finding the path with surprising ease. It was clearly not the standard way up Yufu, as I was alone and the path was narrow and even a tad overgrown in places. All the signs were in Japanese but the route was clearly heading up in a direct route for the peak. I passed a shinto shrine temple in atmospheric woodland after a few hundred metres. From this point the path past a steeper sided valley then headed up directly for a while before reverting to steep zig zags: all good, as I gained height very rapidly. The sun began to peek through the clouds and unfamiliar bird song filled the air: these things make me happy. After passing through a section of fallen trees, the path emerged at some wooden signs and a great view of Yufu directly in front. It was obvious from this point that I wouldn't make it in time. Still, I was on a broad plateau/sub-peak and was enjoying myself. Some cloud passed over the summit and the wind picked up. The weather was on the change. I scampered back down to the town and within 45 minutes it was raining steadily and the entire mountain was hidden behind dark clouds. Another lovely train journey back to Fukuoka completed the day: past fast-flowing rivers, densely wooded hills and waterfalls. Exactly what I expected rural Kyushu to be like.

Wednesday, April 08, 2015

Pot Hole climbing

Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: Un-aided (VS 4b:TR), Grizzly (VS 4c:TR), Grizzly Eliminate (HVS 5a:TR), Major (HVS 5a:TR), Canine Meander (E2 5b:TR), The Dog (HVS 5b:TR), Right Wall (E2 5c:TR)
Another short outing, immediately after a long (2 hour) run. Just up and down a few old favourites for training purposes, with Vic and Hayley. The two eliminate style E2s - Canine Meander and Right Wall - nowadays give the best climbing here, as they are considerably less polished than the natural lines like The Dog and Major (which were polished when I started climbing them 25 years ago!). Nice little pockets, positive with good friction, make them feel much easier than the grade from a purely technical perspective (admittedly with rope above!). After our Spanish cragging trip, and the wall visits, I am getting some strength back, comfortable again on steeper rock and smaller holds: bodes well for summer.

Clwydian run

More last minute training for the Three Peaks fell race: squeezed into a couple of early morning hours as the superb spell of weather continues. Blue skies and birdsong as I plodded up from Llanferres to Foel Fenlli summit, then over to the top of Moel Famau. From here, I climbed back over the shoulder of Foel Fenlli via OD path, then continued on OD to Clwyd Gate and up to the north side of Moel Gyw. Unfamiliar tracks then led east over Cefn y Fran to Ffynnon y Berth farm and back to meet Vic at Pot Hole.

Monday, April 06, 2015

Snowdon walk

Peak: Yr Wyddfa
I had been threatening to take the offspring up Snowdon for some time, but a certain lack of enthusiasm on their part had delayed it! The weather had never quite been right either, but today (Easter Monday) we decided to brave the crowds and go for it: as the weather remained stable, sunny and unusually clear. After an early start I dropped them all off at Pen y Pass and drove down to Dyffryn Mymbyr to park. I ran back up the pass to meet them (I also employed this tactic when climbing on Lliwedd a couple of years ago: it works well but is a bit tiring). We started up the Pyg track with superb views of Crib Goch in front. I broke the ascent down into three stages to help with morale, and we rested at Bwlch y Moch after the first stage! Great views of Lliwedd and, finally, Yr Wyddfa itself. Superb clarity of light, still snow in the gullies (you could almost have climbed all of Central Trinity on a narrow strip of neve this morning). After the level section, morale started to flag a bit on the zigzags, which were getting predictably crowded. But after some infusions of sugar, we gained the tourist route and were soon on top enjoying great views of Eryri, Llyn and a bank of sea mist over towards Ireland. A pleasant lunch, unhurried for once. Ironically, however, the children were eager to descend, so we retraced steps down to the junction with the Miner's Track and headed down the steep path to Glaslyn (many years since I have taken this myself). Glaslyn was sundrenched and friendly: uncharacteristic but wonderful. M and I relaxed with nuts on the cropped grass by the shore of the lake while we waited for K and E. A long ramble back, with a few complaints, to PyP. Then I ran down the new path to PyG and the car in Mymbyr. Perfect weather throughout, and nice to finally get them up a proper hill.

Saturday, April 04, 2015

Castle Inn climbing

Crag: Castle Inn, Llysfaen
Routes: School Mam (f6a:led), The Cakewalk (f6b+:led), Cakewalk Direct (f6b+:sec), Finale (f5:sec), Indian Summer (f6a:sec), Happy Return (f4+:led)
Just a short outing to keep things ticking over after the Spanish trip. After warming up on the 6a School Mam, a route I have led many times over the years, I decided to test my finger strength on The Cakewalk at f6b+. This is one of the best routes here, but I haven't led it for many years (20+ probably). As with many UK sports climbs, I consider it a tad overgraded: it would get 6b at the most in Spain or France. It gives excellent technical climbing and is a very satisfying onsight lead, remarkably unpolished given the popularity of the venue (dozens of climbers here today, Easter Saturday). Above the first bolt the route gets rather thin with excellent moves on small but positive holds. It is all there, but does take a bit of reading from below. This style of climbing suits me fairly well, and a few more moves on pinch holds and small ledges eventually gains an uncomfortable finish up unhelpful flat holds. A pleasing lead. I took the opportunity to take in the similar Cakewalk Direct to its left, but avoided the final crux move due to the pendulum (keeping the grade at 6b). Vic then led the now polished Finale, and we moved round to the Fine View wall as the sun broke through the clouds. Warm rock and blue skies: shame our time was limited.

Friday, April 03, 2015

Fox and hounds hash

A novel and enjoyable club outing from the bottom car park below Penbarras. John M had set the course out, following sawdust signs on a tortuous route which weaved in and out of the fire tracks. We made steady progress, and Steve, Jez and I pushed on a bit as we rounded the top of Moel Famau down to the Vale side in a thick mist and steady rain. We caught the route setters twice on the eastern slopes! This allowed us to do a bit more training (trying to maximise the climbing with the imminent Three Peaks race in mind). Eventually we all emerged at the 'fox' in an obscure locale deep in the woods. I extended the day by taking the steepest climb back up to a wet, windy and misty summit with a long run back to the car: maybe 14 miles in total and a lot of valuable climbing.