Peaks: Corborant (3007m/9865ft), Mont Tenibre (3031m/9944ft)
Area: Maritime Alps, France
Routes: South Flank (uI+), East Ridge (uI)
I'd already had a hint that the day would be clear when I left the hut to pass water in the early hours: a superb full moon lit the lake and Chalanchas in an eerie silver glow. I slept very well, alone in the hut's loft, and had a decent breakfast, so felt fully refreshed after yesterday's exertions (St Robert plus the hut walk amounted to 2500m+ of climbing, perhaps a lot more). The shorter easterly route round the lake to the Pas de Corborant was choked with snow, so I took the Tenibre path and broke off along a vaguely cairned route finally catching a view of the intriguing hidden peak of Corborant half way along. A compelling objective, classically pyramidal, remote, hidden from view and awkward to reach. There was clearly a lot of snow in the steep, broad couloir leading to the Pas de Corborant, but the peak was so appealing I thought I'd give it a go. The terrain was almost as awkward as the central Mercantour: steep scree and vague cairns led to the remnants of what used to be the Corborant glacier (marked on old maps). Contoured above this easily to gain nasty shifting blocks then a very steep slope of shattered scree and powder. Really awkward and unpleasant to get up this, but at least it meant avoiding the iced neve further right. I left the slope as soon as I could to gain a ledge line leading left above the couloir. This became a tad exposed, and I was obviously near the top of the peak, so I just scrambled up a series of quite steep solid shelves to gain the summit in a sudden and exhilerating burst of sunshine, finally leaving the intimidating shadow of the couloir. The summit was small and superb: fabulous views over the cloud-covered Italian valleys, and south to Malinvern and the central Mercantour. Viso was as obvious as ever, but the main attraction for me was the galaxy of unfamiliar peaks fringing Rabuons. Tenibre, my next target, looked rather distant - and I was momentarily tempted by the Grand Cimon and Chalanchas. However, I opted to descend to the Tenibre path - now in beautiful warm sunshine. An enjoyable, well-cairned semi-tourist route leads up to the stunning lakes of Chaffour and Cimon (both almost completely ice-locked). Lost my way avoiding a large snowfield, going too far left before contouring to gain an obvious path above the wonderfully remote Lac de la Montagnette via one tricky snowfield. The Pas de Rabuons was a surprise: not the gentle through route I'd expected, but a dramatic cleft with steep drops down to an array of rock peaks along the Italian border, including Cime Burnat and Roche Brosse. The weather was worsening and I had no wish to navigate down through this ultra-complex terrain, so I bolted up the east ridge on steep scree to a level but narrowing final ridge - with a couple of awkward snowy breches - to the top. Corborant looked both pleasingly impressive and pleasingly far away! I scurried down as the cloud descended, recuperating with a good lunch above the lake. The Chemin de l'Energie was even better in reverse, with superb views down to the Tinee valley. So good, in fact, that I decided to extend the day continuing north from pt 2382 along the Chemin to beautiful Lac Petrus, then skirting Tete de Malignas to the next valley over: the Plan de Tenibre. The path stays level throughout, and I was sorry to leave it - but there was an obvious descent back to St Etienne south-west down a steep spur (Coste de Fournels). A satisfying day: Corborant and Tenibre are not close neighbours and both are significant independent peaks with very different characters - nice to do them in quick succession, with the Energie extension as a bonus. I was back in the village by mid-afternoon, and camped further down the Tinee valley in Isola.
Saturday, July 11, 2009
Friday, July 10, 2009
Cime St Robert
Peak: Cime St Robert (2919m/9577ft)
Area: Mercantour Alps, France
Routes: South Ridge (uII), South Flank (uI+)
This was something of a bonus peak, squeezed in before the real meat of a solo three-day Alpine trip (itself squeezed in before our family holiday in Provence). I flew into Nice on Thursday evening, and drove straight to St Martin Vesubie in the hire car. Drove up to the Madone this morning, and headed straight for this peak - which is such an obvious and shapely objective from the hut and chapel. I'd done Gelas, the big one, years ago in 1994 and so had delayed my ascent of this, its close neighbour. It was the ideal choice today, though: short and sharp. I jogged the initial path up towards the Pas des Ladres, before breaking off towards the Col de Fenestre and then again to the little Gelas path across a side valley before contouring the hillside. St Robert looms ever larger at this point, and the route inevitably becomes hard to follow as soon as the Gelas path is left. I headed up some little valleys trying to find the ominously-named Lac Mort below the peak. It soon became clear that snow was going to be a problem: far more than in previous years, and me with no axe. After crossing a large snowfield, iron hard neve at this time in the morning (still before 8), I crested a ridge to see Lac Mort below - chocked with ice and snow, making a superb foreground to the view of Mont Ponset (climbed July 06). What I took to be the normal access gully was choked with snow, so I took shallower snow slopes (using my ski pole as an improvised axe) to gain a scree gully further right. Tediously up this to a rock wall, skirted on slabs above a bergshrund, to a much bigger slope. Typical Maritime Alps terrain - big unstable clapiers, awkward route-finding. Eventually I worked out a way to gain the upper scree that is so obvious from the madone in safety, taking a steeper snowfield at its narrowest point to gain a dirty gully and then the scree. From here, the route was obvious and simple - presumably because I'd finally gained the voie normale above the usual access gully. The scree led to the obvious SE ridge which gave good scrambling before becoming rather exposed. I traversed right into the gully of the normal route, which also gave enjoyable and atmospheric scrambling to the small summit. Around 90 mins from the madone, half the guidebook time. Cloud was already spilling in to the Italian valleys and the sky was milky white. But the views were good - Monte Viso, Matto, Argentera all impressed, as did the very close Gelas. Pleasing to see the Grand Capelet looking so dominant, after last year's ascent, and the Matterhorn was also visible on the horizon. I was pushed for time, so made a rapid and simple descent (marred by the loss of a sleeved top in the gully) back to the Madone. Got in the car and, after buying provisions, drove over the Col St Martin down the Tinee valley and, eventually, St Etienne de Tinee. Began the walk-in to the Rabuons hut immediately. This is possibly the longest hut walk in the Maritime Alps, so it wasn't ideal that I had already done a 3000m peak that day! Still, the path was superbly engineered through the trees with ever-expanding views over the galaxy of grassy peaks between Pelat, Col de Bonette and Mont Mounier. Emerged from the treeline after a couple of hours of hard, hot work, to be rewarded by the truly stunning Chemin de l'energie. This is an incredible Tolkienesque level path cut into the mountain side for a now-defunct project. A superbly enjoyable walk along it, increasingly exposed but always just a ramble, led to the final rise to the wonderfully positioned Refuge de Rabuons. I passed a splendid evening at the hut as the only guest. It got pretty cold as I ambled around the superb glacial lake, watching the sun set over Pelat and the colours gradually drain from the peaks. Both tomorrow's objectives - Corborant and Tenibre - are hidden from the hut, but the Tete des Chalanchas and the Grand Cimon de Rabuons were equally impressive sights.
Area: Mercantour Alps, France
Routes: South Ridge (uII), South Flank (uI+)
This was something of a bonus peak, squeezed in before the real meat of a solo three-day Alpine trip (itself squeezed in before our family holiday in Provence). I flew into Nice on Thursday evening, and drove straight to St Martin Vesubie in the hire car. Drove up to the Madone this morning, and headed straight for this peak - which is such an obvious and shapely objective from the hut and chapel. I'd done Gelas, the big one, years ago in 1994 and so had delayed my ascent of this, its close neighbour. It was the ideal choice today, though: short and sharp. I jogged the initial path up towards the Pas des Ladres, before breaking off towards the Col de Fenestre and then again to the little Gelas path across a side valley before contouring the hillside. St Robert looms ever larger at this point, and the route inevitably becomes hard to follow as soon as the Gelas path is left. I headed up some little valleys trying to find the ominously-named Lac Mort below the peak. It soon became clear that snow was going to be a problem: far more than in previous years, and me with no axe. After crossing a large snowfield, iron hard neve at this time in the morning (still before 8), I crested a ridge to see Lac Mort below - chocked with ice and snow, making a superb foreground to the view of Mont Ponset (climbed July 06). What I took to be the normal access gully was choked with snow, so I took shallower snow slopes (using my ski pole as an improvised axe) to gain a scree gully further right. Tediously up this to a rock wall, skirted on slabs above a bergshrund, to a much bigger slope. Typical Maritime Alps terrain - big unstable clapiers, awkward route-finding. Eventually I worked out a way to gain the upper scree that is so obvious from the madone in safety, taking a steeper snowfield at its narrowest point to gain a dirty gully and then the scree. From here, the route was obvious and simple - presumably because I'd finally gained the voie normale above the usual access gully. The scree led to the obvious SE ridge which gave good scrambling before becoming rather exposed. I traversed right into the gully of the normal route, which also gave enjoyable and atmospheric scrambling to the small summit. Around 90 mins from the madone, half the guidebook time. Cloud was already spilling in to the Italian valleys and the sky was milky white. But the views were good - Monte Viso, Matto, Argentera all impressed, as did the very close Gelas. Pleasing to see the Grand Capelet looking so dominant, after last year's ascent, and the Matterhorn was also visible on the horizon. I was pushed for time, so made a rapid and simple descent (marred by the loss of a sleeved top in the gully) back to the Madone. Got in the car and, after buying provisions, drove over the Col St Martin down the Tinee valley and, eventually, St Etienne de Tinee. Began the walk-in to the Rabuons hut immediately. This is possibly the longest hut walk in the Maritime Alps, so it wasn't ideal that I had already done a 3000m peak that day! Still, the path was superbly engineered through the trees with ever-expanding views over the galaxy of grassy peaks between Pelat, Col de Bonette and Mont Mounier. Emerged from the treeline after a couple of hours of hard, hot work, to be rewarded by the truly stunning Chemin de l'energie. This is an incredible Tolkienesque level path cut into the mountain side for a now-defunct project. A superbly enjoyable walk along it, increasingly exposed but always just a ramble, led to the final rise to the wonderfully positioned Refuge de Rabuons. I passed a splendid evening at the hut as the only guest. It got pretty cold as I ambled around the superb glacial lake, watching the sun set over Pelat and the colours gradually drain from the peaks. Both tomorrow's objectives - Corborant and Tenibre - are hidden from the hut, but the Tete des Chalanchas and the Grand Cimon de Rabuons were equally impressive sights.
Tuesday, July 07, 2009
The Beast fell race
Race: The Beast (4m/1200ft)
Time/position: 29:40 (6th from 45)
My last race before leaving for the Alps/Provence, so I wanted to do it despite being tired after recent events (and despite two pints of bitter and a heavy meal at lunchtime!). A brief nap before the race helped, and although my legs felt tired throughout I turned in a reasonably pleasing performance. Went quite quickly from Maeshafn through the woods and picked up a few places on the climb up 'the beast' to the Bryn Alyn limestone pavements. Managed to stick with the pace of Simon and Neil, and pulled past them - to my surprise - on the final climb through the Big Covert woods to finish 6th. My second running of this excellent revived event, with a pleasant drink afterwards in the Miner's Arms.
Time/position: 29:40 (6th from 45)
My last race before leaving for the Alps/Provence, so I wanted to do it despite being tired after recent events (and despite two pints of bitter and a heavy meal at lunchtime!). A brief nap before the race helped, and although my legs felt tired throughout I turned in a reasonably pleasing performance. Went quite quickly from Maeshafn through the woods and picked up a few places on the climb up 'the beast' to the Bryn Alyn limestone pavements. Managed to stick with the pace of Simon and Neil, and pulled past them - to my surprise - on the final climb through the Big Covert woods to finish 6th. My second running of this excellent revived event, with a pleasant drink afterwards in the Miner's Arms.
Monday, July 06, 2009
Penmaen Head climbing
Crag: Penmaen Head, Colwyn Bay
Routes: FW route 3 (f5:led), FW route 2 (f5+:sec), FW route 6 (f6a:led), FW route 7 (f6a+:sec), PM route 17 (f5:led)
A brief but interesting trip to this 'new' bolted venue, just managing to squeeze a few routes in between heavy showers. We were both surprised by the quality of the climbing, a pleasing and much-needed superior alternative to (for instance) the scrappy routes at Trevor. The rain stopped as we arrived, to enable me to lead some routes on Flowstone Wall, the most obviously attractive sector. All routes here are on good rough, solid limestone with natural flowstone features - all nicely sustained at an amenable but thought-provoking standard. Route 3 went steeply but juggily up to a final section festooned with excellent holds. Route 2 was similar, but steeper and more sustained: good climbing. I then led the splendid route 6 up the obvious flowstone wall: really satisfying climbing. Slabbier and more technical than the routes left, but felt quite soft for the grade, as did the 6a+ to the right. Started a route on the Expressway wall above the A55, but was rained off, so foolishly led the short groove to the right of Penmaenrhos wall in the rain. Very slimy and awkward, had to move right to gain the lower-off. Alwyn and I both thought it prudent to retreat after this, as the rain continued.
Routes: FW route 3 (f5:led), FW route 2 (f5+:sec), FW route 6 (f6a:led), FW route 7 (f6a+:sec), PM route 17 (f5:led)
A brief but interesting trip to this 'new' bolted venue, just managing to squeeze a few routes in between heavy showers. We were both surprised by the quality of the climbing, a pleasing and much-needed superior alternative to (for instance) the scrappy routes at Trevor. The rain stopped as we arrived, to enable me to lead some routes on Flowstone Wall, the most obviously attractive sector. All routes here are on good rough, solid limestone with natural flowstone features - all nicely sustained at an amenable but thought-provoking standard. Route 3 went steeply but juggily up to a final section festooned with excellent holds. Route 2 was similar, but steeper and more sustained: good climbing. I then led the splendid route 6 up the obvious flowstone wall: really satisfying climbing. Slabbier and more technical than the routes left, but felt quite soft for the grade, as did the 6a+ to the right. Started a route on the Expressway wall above the A55, but was rained off, so foolishly led the short groove to the right of Penmaenrhos wall in the rain. Very slimy and awkward, had to move right to gain the lower-off. Alwyn and I both thought it prudent to retreat after this, as the rain continued.
Sunday, July 05, 2009
Saunders Lakeland mountain marathon, day 2
Race: SLMM (Bowfell class) day 2 (18.5k/1200m)
Time/position: 5:52:20 (12:27:50 cumulative/26th overall)
Asleep in a quiet camp by 9pm, so felt quite good as we collected the coordinates at 6.45am. Rather wet, with low cloud, but this began to clear as soon as we set off to an easy first control, then along the riverside path to Birks and up the side of Harter Fell to CP 2 at the foot of Demming Crag. We were both going well, and took a good route down the complex, lumpy NE spur of Harter Fell to Hardknott Pass. The cloud was down as we took another good route contouring Hartknott summit to land dead-on CP 3 on the marshy plateau north. We were gaining time and places now, as the sun came out, and we continued pushing the pace down to Mosedale before contouring rough terrain east to Gaitscale Gill and CP4. As the weather continued to improve, things started to go wrong. Stef struggled on the mountainous terrain leading down to Wrynose, and as a partial result we then took the awful decision to avoid the direct mountainous route over Swirl Hows to the fifth control - instead opting to retrace the day one route over Birk Fell much further east. This lost us a great deal of time, and places, and got worse as we tried to cut corners (great views over to Langdale though!). After more than two hours of frustrating struggle I dibbed CP 5 in the mines SE of the Old Man. Annoyed, we stormed the remainder of the course over The Bell and back to the finish in Coniston. Glorious sunshine for the final section. A cracking weekend, despite the one unfortunate route planning error, particularly as it was centred around new territory for me: Eskdale and Duddon.
Time/position: 5:52:20 (12:27:50 cumulative/26th overall)
Asleep in a quiet camp by 9pm, so felt quite good as we collected the coordinates at 6.45am. Rather wet, with low cloud, but this began to clear as soon as we set off to an easy first control, then along the riverside path to Birks and up the side of Harter Fell to CP 2 at the foot of Demming Crag. We were both going well, and took a good route down the complex, lumpy NE spur of Harter Fell to Hardknott Pass. The cloud was down as we took another good route contouring Hartknott summit to land dead-on CP 3 on the marshy plateau north. We were gaining time and places now, as the sun came out, and we continued pushing the pace down to Mosedale before contouring rough terrain east to Gaitscale Gill and CP4. As the weather continued to improve, things started to go wrong. Stef struggled on the mountainous terrain leading down to Wrynose, and as a partial result we then took the awful decision to avoid the direct mountainous route over Swirl Hows to the fifth control - instead opting to retrace the day one route over Birk Fell much further east. This lost us a great deal of time, and places, and got worse as we tried to cut corners (great views over to Langdale though!). After more than two hours of frustrating struggle I dibbed CP 5 in the mines SE of the Old Man. Annoyed, we stormed the remainder of the course over The Bell and back to the finish in Coniston. Glorious sunshine for the final section. A cracking weekend, despite the one unfortunate route planning error, particularly as it was centred around new territory for me: Eskdale and Duddon.
Saturday, July 04, 2009
Saunders Lakeland mountain marathon, day 1
Race: SLMM (Bowfell class) day 1 (22.6k/1300m)
Time/position: 6:35:30 (23/50)
First attempt at the Saunders - a splendid event and an enjoyable weekend, marred only by one appalling route choice on day two. The first day began well. After a pleasant camp in Coniston, Stef and I began the Bowfell course in light drizzle. After getting the control coordinates, we climbed gently up to Crook Beck and located the first CP below a crag. The next leg was a very long haul over the shoulder of Birk Fell and down to Widdy Gill. Then a long road climb up to Wrynose Pass before branching off north to the CP south of Pike o'Blisco. Feeling quite good, we jogged NW to Red Tarn then cut across the shoulder of Great Knott to cross a boggy plateau in a light shower. Steep but fast descent down Swinsty Gill to satisfying route plotting across the marshy ground leading to upper Eskdale. Followed a small stream on a bearing to land dead-on the re-entrant for CP 3, then easily down to the next control on a knoll. Gentle jogging over marshy terrain led to hidden Stony Tarn and a well-hidden control in an old ruin between steep knolls. We descended into Eskdale, then up a final steep climb to CP 6 in a little valley beyond Kepple Crag. A good route suggestion by Stef saw us gain a little time by countouring a spur to easily gain a runnable bridleway which led lengthily down Grassguards gill to the final check in Wallbarrow gorge. We were now in the Duddon Valley, and jogged down a marked route to the pleasant overnight camp at Turner Hall farm. A very pleasant evening, save for a lengthy heavy shower, with several acquaintances at camp. Nice views of Duddon, Harter Fell and the Coniston group.
Time/position: 6:35:30 (23/50)
First attempt at the Saunders - a splendid event and an enjoyable weekend, marred only by one appalling route choice on day two. The first day began well. After a pleasant camp in Coniston, Stef and I began the Bowfell course in light drizzle. After getting the control coordinates, we climbed gently up to Crook Beck and located the first CP below a crag. The next leg was a very long haul over the shoulder of Birk Fell and down to Widdy Gill. Then a long road climb up to Wrynose Pass before branching off north to the CP south of Pike o'Blisco. Feeling quite good, we jogged NW to Red Tarn then cut across the shoulder of Great Knott to cross a boggy plateau in a light shower. Steep but fast descent down Swinsty Gill to satisfying route plotting across the marshy ground leading to upper Eskdale. Followed a small stream on a bearing to land dead-on the re-entrant for CP 3, then easily down to the next control on a knoll. Gentle jogging over marshy terrain led to hidden Stony Tarn and a well-hidden control in an old ruin between steep knolls. We descended into Eskdale, then up a final steep climb to CP 6 in a little valley beyond Kepple Crag. A good route suggestion by Stef saw us gain a little time by countouring a spur to easily gain a runnable bridleway which led lengthily down Grassguards gill to the final check in Wallbarrow gorge. We were now in the Duddon Valley, and jogged down a marked route to the pleasant overnight camp at Turner Hall farm. A very pleasant evening, save for a lengthy heavy shower, with several acquaintances at camp. Nice views of Duddon, Harter Fell and the Coniston group.
Thursday, July 02, 2009
Pot Hole climbing
Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: Mango (HS 4a:sh), Chutney (VS 5a:sh), Owl Wall (HS 4a:sh), Epitaph (HVS 5b:sh), Horn Dog (HVS 5a:sh)
A very early, very brief trip to Pot Hole for some shunted routes. A worthwhile workout, though, didn't feel too tired after last night's race although the humidity didn't help with the polished limestone. Mango is a good line up a positive crack, and Chutney was refreshingly unpolished - good, crisp moves and a good steep finish. Avoided the big holds on Owl Wall, and downclimbed it too. I remembered Epitaph from a previous ascent many years ago: slightly disjointed with only one or two hard moves left of the arete. Horn Dog takes a superdirect and photogenic line up the arete. Good, surprisingly independent climbing on small, sharp holds straddling the arete. Just a bit short. Finished with a brief recovery jog.
Routes: Mango (HS 4a:sh), Chutney (VS 5a:sh), Owl Wall (HS 4a:sh), Epitaph (HVS 5b:sh), Horn Dog (HVS 5a:sh)
A very early, very brief trip to Pot Hole for some shunted routes. A worthwhile workout, though, didn't feel too tired after last night's race although the humidity didn't help with the polished limestone. Mango is a good line up a positive crack, and Chutney was refreshingly unpolished - good, crisp moves and a good steep finish. Avoided the big holds on Owl Wall, and downclimbed it too. I remembered Epitaph from a previous ascent many years ago: slightly disjointed with only one or two hard moves left of the arete. Horn Dog takes a superdirect and photogenic line up the arete. Good, surprisingly independent climbing on small, sharp holds straddling the arete. Just a bit short. Finished with a brief recovery jog.
Wednesday, July 01, 2009
Hotfoot up Famau race
Race: Hotfoot up Famau fell race (3.5m/1200ft)
Time/Position: 40:49 (8th from 84)
Predictably hot and humid for this mini-beast of a race, which packs a great deal of physical torment into 3.5 miles. No respite throughout the race, a ferociously fast initial descent leads to the steep climb up Moel y Gaer followed by a route change - with Martin replicating the long leg from last October's relays, which involves a little ridge followed by a steep descent through waist high bracken to Nant y Ne. Struggled up to the gully in stifling heat, just managed to keep going in 6th place, but passed by two as it levels out near the top of Famau, just didn't have the strength to move quicker. Couldn't quite catch them on the descent, but did take a couple of minutes off last year's time. Great race and nice atmosphere, as the sun dropped over central Snowdonia during our warm-down - beautiful views of the Vale and beyond.
Time/Position: 40:49 (8th from 84)
Predictably hot and humid for this mini-beast of a race, which packs a great deal of physical torment into 3.5 miles. No respite throughout the race, a ferociously fast initial descent leads to the steep climb up Moel y Gaer followed by a route change - with Martin replicating the long leg from last October's relays, which involves a little ridge followed by a steep descent through waist high bracken to Nant y Ne. Struggled up to the gully in stifling heat, just managed to keep going in 6th place, but passed by two as it levels out near the top of Famau, just didn't have the strength to move quicker. Couldn't quite catch them on the descent, but did take a couple of minutes off last year's time. Great race and nice atmosphere, as the sun dropped over central Snowdonia during our warm-down - beautiful views of the Vale and beyond.
Monday, June 29, 2009
Bryn Alyn run
A hot and humid evening run from Cadole over to Bryn Alyn with Neil. From Maeshafn, we entered the cooler woods and followed the 'beast' race route down to Pot Hole and up the climb to the top of Bryn Alyn. Then back to Maeshafn by the side of the quarry, and good running down to Cadole.
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Craig y Forwen, Castle Inn, Famau run
Crag: Craig y Forwen, Llanddulas
Routes: Route 66 (VS 4c, 4b: led p.2)
Crag: Castle Inn, Llysfaen
Routes: Route 1 (f5: led), Route 2 (f6a: led)
Climbing was first banned on this tremendous crag a year or two before I started in 1988 or so. As my local crag, it was obviously a huge loss. Twenty years on, and the prospect of access seemed back on the cards last year before the barely credible fact emerged that the awkward landowner didn't own the central section after all. Anyway, we'd researched the access situation carefully and understood that some of the routes on the edge of the cliff were legitimate. Parked according to BMC guidance and headed down to the crag, a seminal moment after all these years. Vic led the first pitch of Route 66. Obviously recently cleaned, but still felt like not many people had done the route for a couple of decades. Good climbing though, with a short corner followed by a nice traverse to a steepish arete up to the belay ledge. Good gear, enjoyable throughout. I led on through the rather dirty but easy-angled corner to the top. Eager for more, for obvious reasons, I led the easy first pitch up the corner of Sangfroid, a classic HVS (still a legitimate climb, supposedly). Vic was half way up the steep flake on the second pitch when an aggressive shout came from below the trees. There followed a torrent of abuse - you are trespassing, get off the cliffs, and worse. We stayed silent and eventually both lowered off without confrontation, it being rather unpleasant to climb with an unseen lunatic shouting below the crag. This section of cliff is supposedly fine to climb on - the better routes on the main cliff still barred, for whatever reason - so it really seems unacceptable for this to happen, particularly as we were unobtrusive to the point of being virtually silent. No idea who was hurling the abuse, but to have the prospect of access to the crag dangled and then taken away just seems ridiculous. We retreated without conflict to Castle Inn, where we both led the two old favourites (the f6a and the arete, must have done them at least 10 times) before torrential melting hail drove us off. Then drove to Cadole in tropical monsoon conditions for a long run (9m+?) up a humid and misty Famau via the Cilcain reservoirs and down the normal ascent route. Rehydrated at the Collie.
Routes: Route 66 (VS 4c, 4b: led p.2)
Crag: Castle Inn, Llysfaen
Routes: Route 1 (f5: led), Route 2 (f6a: led)
Climbing was first banned on this tremendous crag a year or two before I started in 1988 or so. As my local crag, it was obviously a huge loss. Twenty years on, and the prospect of access seemed back on the cards last year before the barely credible fact emerged that the awkward landowner didn't own the central section after all. Anyway, we'd researched the access situation carefully and understood that some of the routes on the edge of the cliff were legitimate. Parked according to BMC guidance and headed down to the crag, a seminal moment after all these years. Vic led the first pitch of Route 66. Obviously recently cleaned, but still felt like not many people had done the route for a couple of decades. Good climbing though, with a short corner followed by a nice traverse to a steepish arete up to the belay ledge. Good gear, enjoyable throughout. I led on through the rather dirty but easy-angled corner to the top. Eager for more, for obvious reasons, I led the easy first pitch up the corner of Sangfroid, a classic HVS (still a legitimate climb, supposedly). Vic was half way up the steep flake on the second pitch when an aggressive shout came from below the trees. There followed a torrent of abuse - you are trespassing, get off the cliffs, and worse. We stayed silent and eventually both lowered off without confrontation, it being rather unpleasant to climb with an unseen lunatic shouting below the crag. This section of cliff is supposedly fine to climb on - the better routes on the main cliff still barred, for whatever reason - so it really seems unacceptable for this to happen, particularly as we were unobtrusive to the point of being virtually silent. No idea who was hurling the abuse, but to have the prospect of access to the crag dangled and then taken away just seems ridiculous. We retreated without conflict to Castle Inn, where we both led the two old favourites (the f6a and the arete, must have done them at least 10 times) before torrential melting hail drove us off. Then drove to Cadole in tropical monsoon conditions for a long run (9m+?) up a humid and misty Famau via the Cilcain reservoirs and down the normal ascent route. Rehydrated at the Collie.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Moelwyn traverse
Peaks: Cnicht, Moelwyn Mawr, Craigysgafn, Moelwyn Bach, Moel yr Hydd, Foel Ddu, Allt Fawr, Moel Druman, Ysgafell Wen South, Moel Llynau'r-cwn, Ysgafell Wen, Moel Meirch, Cerrig Cochion, Carnedd y Gribiau, Clogwyn Bwlch y Maen, Moel Siabod
This was intended to be a considerably more ambitious outing, but my attempt at a solo, unsupported '40 at 40' ended in predictable failure. However, it was still an enjoyable outing which demonstrated the feasibility of the route (for next year). Poor weather had stymied the initial attempt, and I did this on a whim - knowing the route would be harder in reverse. Wonderful weather, perfectly clear and sunny with a cooling easterly wind on the summits. Easy jogging from Croesor up the always enjoyable route to Cnicht - fabulous seaward views as I topped out in 35 mins. Then a hugely enjoyable run down to Llyn yr Adar and across - boggily - to the quarry and long ridge up Moelwyn Mawr. Down over the rocky ridge to Craigysgafn, then good running up the contouring path up Moelwyn Bach. Back the same way before finally starting to head in the right direction! An easy pull up Moel yr Hydd, then the ridge over Foel Ddu, to arrive back at Rhosydd quarry. I tried a short-cut to Llyn Conglog, but this proved problematic - very steep rocky terrain east of the crags above Cwmorthin. After a long slog, I skirted Conglog for the long detour out to the summit of Allt Fawr. Good running across Moel Druman to the three Ysgafell Wen peaks and - after a bite to eat - prospects were looking reasonably good. I was behind schedule, but feeling OK. The mistake was not to take on enough water at what proved the last watersource below Conglog. The long northerly traverse across very boggy terrain to Siabod therefore became extremely uncomforable. The problem then becomes one of motivation - without support, it is hard to get through the inevitable rough patches. Things initially went well, though. The sharp little peak of Moel Meirch, with its summit rock garden and perfect Llyn Edno beneath, is perhaps the most beautiful spot in Snowdonia - yet this was only my second or third visit. The rest of the ridge up to Siabod was entirely new territory for me, and I discovered pretty quickly that it is very hard going over frequent boggy hollows and hidden valleys. I became more and more dehydrated over the minor summits leading to Siabod and was finally forced to contour below the summit of Siabod in a rather desperate search for a stream. Found one eventually but by now it was obvious that I was too far behind schedule to complete the route in a day. My legs felt OK, but there seemed no point overly exerting myself given the time, so I phoned K who kindly picked me up from Capel.
This was intended to be a considerably more ambitious outing, but my attempt at a solo, unsupported '40 at 40' ended in predictable failure. However, it was still an enjoyable outing which demonstrated the feasibility of the route (for next year). Poor weather had stymied the initial attempt, and I did this on a whim - knowing the route would be harder in reverse. Wonderful weather, perfectly clear and sunny with a cooling easterly wind on the summits. Easy jogging from Croesor up the always enjoyable route to Cnicht - fabulous seaward views as I topped out in 35 mins. Then a hugely enjoyable run down to Llyn yr Adar and across - boggily - to the quarry and long ridge up Moelwyn Mawr. Down over the rocky ridge to Craigysgafn, then good running up the contouring path up Moelwyn Bach. Back the same way before finally starting to head in the right direction! An easy pull up Moel yr Hydd, then the ridge over Foel Ddu, to arrive back at Rhosydd quarry. I tried a short-cut to Llyn Conglog, but this proved problematic - very steep rocky terrain east of the crags above Cwmorthin. After a long slog, I skirted Conglog for the long detour out to the summit of Allt Fawr. Good running across Moel Druman to the three Ysgafell Wen peaks and - after a bite to eat - prospects were looking reasonably good. I was behind schedule, but feeling OK. The mistake was not to take on enough water at what proved the last watersource below Conglog. The long northerly traverse across very boggy terrain to Siabod therefore became extremely uncomforable. The problem then becomes one of motivation - without support, it is hard to get through the inevitable rough patches. Things initially went well, though. The sharp little peak of Moel Meirch, with its summit rock garden and perfect Llyn Edno beneath, is perhaps the most beautiful spot in Snowdonia - yet this was only my second or third visit. The rest of the ridge up to Siabod was entirely new territory for me, and I discovered pretty quickly that it is very hard going over frequent boggy hollows and hidden valleys. I became more and more dehydrated over the minor summits leading to Siabod and was finally forced to contour below the summit of Siabod in a rather desperate search for a stream. Found one eventually but by now it was obvious that I was too far behind schedule to complete the route in a day. My legs felt OK, but there seemed no point overly exerting myself given the time, so I phoned K who kindly picked me up from Capel.
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
The Druid race
Race: The Druid fell race (5m/1200ft)
Time/position: 36:01 (10th from 84)
A shortened route for this, the opening race of the Clwydian summer series. I think it's my fourth running of the event, definitely a favourite, albeit a little too fast for me! But a lovely route and the usual relaxed, friendly atmosphere. A reasonable evening after a wet day, too. My first short race for a good while: I didn't climb particularly well, especially on the steepest bits, which was a bit disappointing. The altered route went along the rim of the hillfort, rather than the usual dip down to Penbarras, and I was part of a trio heather bashing up to the easier path, which lost a little time. Then a reasonable descent, passing two immediately, but couldn't quite catch the next group and ended up a second or two behind Neil and another runner.
Time/position: 36:01 (10th from 84)
A shortened route for this, the opening race of the Clwydian summer series. I think it's my fourth running of the event, definitely a favourite, albeit a little too fast for me! But a lovely route and the usual relaxed, friendly atmosphere. A reasonable evening after a wet day, too. My first short race for a good while: I didn't climb particularly well, especially on the steepest bits, which was a bit disappointing. The altered route went along the rim of the hillfort, rather than the usual dip down to Penbarras, and I was part of a trio heather bashing up to the easier path, which lost a little time. Then a reasonable descent, passing two immediately, but couldn't quite catch the next group and ended up a second or two behind Neil and another runner.
Saturday, June 13, 2009
Stanage climbs
Crag: Stanage, Peak
Routes: Inaccessible Slab (S 4c:sol), Inaccessible Crack Direct (VS 4c:sec), Cave Buttress (S 4b:led), Lost Soul (S:sol), Norse Corner Climb (HS 4c:sec), Limbo (S:sol), Tango Buttress (HS 5a:led), Youth (VD:sol), Warm Afternoon (VD:sol), Ice Cream Flakes (VD:sol), Side Plate (S 4b:sol), Duo Crack Climb (VD:sol), Staircase Rib (D:sol), Birthday Buttress (VS 4b:led), Feathered Friends (VS 4b:sec), Kelly's Crack (VD:downclimbed), Kelly's Eye (HS 4b:led), Bright Eyed (VS 4b:sol), Emily May (S:sol), Clegg (HVD:sol), Midge (D:sol)
Rather tired after a long day yesterday, but managed to rouse myself for this early morning (7.15am!) trip to Stanage. Brief visits notwithstanding, this was my first full day on grit since 1997. Had no particular routes in mind, given the time elapsed since my last visit. Perhaps I should have been more focused on the classics, but it was far too crowded for my tastes and I decided instead to take the opportunity to increase the climbing mileage and bag a good few routes while re-acquainting myself with grit, which takes time. After a brief microroute, I seconded Dale up the powerful line of Inaccessible Crack. I'd done the normal indirect version of this before with Tim, and even dredged up a vague memory of the final section - an enjoyable blast up a steep crack. I led Cave Buttress to ease myself back. After an awkward start, an easy slab leads to a fine traverse right over a rounded arete to a rather rounded finish via a couple of breaks. Enjoyable. Quickly nipped solo up Lost Soul, eager for as much action as possible, finishing up Tango Crack. Then followed Dale up Norse Corner, with its very awkward start up a steep wall via a big pocket and an undercut to moves right up a slabby corner, then an easy layback to finish. After another rapid solo of Limbo, I led Tango Buttress on a single 9mm. Splendid fun, perhaps the route of the day. A delicate, semi-technical 5a start leads to a beautiful grit slab. Moves on little edges to a flake on the right, then more delicate climbing leads to a juggy finish. We moved away from crowded High Neb after lunch, to the unsung buttresses further left. A bit of a feeding frenzy followed, with fun solo trips up the enjoyable Youth (a nice crack), followed by three more similar but less defined routes (although Side Plate was a nice trip up a slabby arete). Another move left to another quiet buttress, and the fine Duo Cracks - nipped up in less than a minute, and the juggy, novel romp up the detached Staircase Rib. Dale suggested moving to Birthday Buttress, and I led the eponymous route. A poor decision. I should have chosen more prudently. Steep moves up to an obvious hand traverse line, with little for the feet, led to an arete right. An awkward mantel gained the big ledge and end of all difficulties. An unexpectedly strenuous and not very good route, which took far too much effort given my tiredness after yesterday. We moved to Crow Chin, back among the crowds. Seconded Dale up the slab of Feathered Friends, then downclimbed Kelly's Crack with its famous wobbly chockstone. Sudden tiredness kicked in as I led Kelly's Eye, starting too far left before moving back to the big flake and delicate finish. Bright Eyed and Emily May were nice short solos on lovely rough rock, whilst Clegg and Midge were silly additions much further right - involving an unwelcome longish walk - just to push the route tally above 20! Shame I wasn't a bit fresher and more focused for this, but a good day nonetheless. Nice weather too, and good views gave me the satisfaction of reflecting on the Edale Skyline fell race I did in late March: because the entire race route is visible when one belays above the edge.
Routes: Inaccessible Slab (S 4c:sol), Inaccessible Crack Direct (VS 4c:sec), Cave Buttress (S 4b:led), Lost Soul (S:sol), Norse Corner Climb (HS 4c:sec), Limbo (S:sol), Tango Buttress (HS 5a:led), Youth (VD:sol), Warm Afternoon (VD:sol), Ice Cream Flakes (VD:sol), Side Plate (S 4b:sol), Duo Crack Climb (VD:sol), Staircase Rib (D:sol), Birthday Buttress (VS 4b:led), Feathered Friends (VS 4b:sec), Kelly's Crack (VD:downclimbed), Kelly's Eye (HS 4b:led), Bright Eyed (VS 4b:sol), Emily May (S:sol), Clegg (HVD:sol), Midge (D:sol)
Rather tired after a long day yesterday, but managed to rouse myself for this early morning (7.15am!) trip to Stanage. Brief visits notwithstanding, this was my first full day on grit since 1997. Had no particular routes in mind, given the time elapsed since my last visit. Perhaps I should have been more focused on the classics, but it was far too crowded for my tastes and I decided instead to take the opportunity to increase the climbing mileage and bag a good few routes while re-acquainting myself with grit, which takes time. After a brief microroute, I seconded Dale up the powerful line of Inaccessible Crack. I'd done the normal indirect version of this before with Tim, and even dredged up a vague memory of the final section - an enjoyable blast up a steep crack. I led Cave Buttress to ease myself back. After an awkward start, an easy slab leads to a fine traverse right over a rounded arete to a rather rounded finish via a couple of breaks. Enjoyable. Quickly nipped solo up Lost Soul, eager for as much action as possible, finishing up Tango Crack. Then followed Dale up Norse Corner, with its very awkward start up a steep wall via a big pocket and an undercut to moves right up a slabby corner, then an easy layback to finish. After another rapid solo of Limbo, I led Tango Buttress on a single 9mm. Splendid fun, perhaps the route of the day. A delicate, semi-technical 5a start leads to a beautiful grit slab. Moves on little edges to a flake on the right, then more delicate climbing leads to a juggy finish. We moved away from crowded High Neb after lunch, to the unsung buttresses further left. A bit of a feeding frenzy followed, with fun solo trips up the enjoyable Youth (a nice crack), followed by three more similar but less defined routes (although Side Plate was a nice trip up a slabby arete). Another move left to another quiet buttress, and the fine Duo Cracks - nipped up in less than a minute, and the juggy, novel romp up the detached Staircase Rib. Dale suggested moving to Birthday Buttress, and I led the eponymous route. A poor decision. I should have chosen more prudently. Steep moves up to an obvious hand traverse line, with little for the feet, led to an arete right. An awkward mantel gained the big ledge and end of all difficulties. An unexpectedly strenuous and not very good route, which took far too much effort given my tiredness after yesterday. We moved to Crow Chin, back among the crowds. Seconded Dale up the slab of Feathered Friends, then downclimbed Kelly's Crack with its famous wobbly chockstone. Sudden tiredness kicked in as I led Kelly's Eye, starting too far left before moving back to the big flake and delicate finish. Bright Eyed and Emily May were nice short solos on lovely rough rock, whilst Clegg and Midge were silly additions much further right - involving an unwelcome longish walk - just to push the route tally above 20! Shame I wasn't a bit fresher and more focused for this, but a good day nonetheless. Nice weather too, and good views gave me the satisfaction of reflecting on the Edale Skyline fell race I did in late March: because the entire race route is visible when one belays above the edge.
Friday, June 12, 2009
Clogwyn Cyrau climbs, and Famau run
Crag: Clogwyn Cyrau, Betws y Coed
Routes: Conwy Corner (S:led), The Groove (VD:sol), Sion (S:led), Jingling Wall (HS 4b,4b: led p.2), Long Climb Direct (S:led p.1,2 merged), Hen Bryd (S:sec), Sian (VD:sol), Siencyn (S:sol), Morus (VD:sol), Eliminate Start (VS 5a:sol), The Arete (HS 4b:led)
My sole previous visit to this crag was probably 16 years ago, when we scratched around on some short routes in pouring rain. This was a highly enjoyable day on an ultra-relaxing low key crag, just picking off some of the minor classics. Conwy Corner and Jingling Wall are easily the best lines, and I began with a lead of the former on Conwy Buttress: a very obvious right-angled corner, an irresistable line. It was a lovely pitch with nice incut jugs, easy bridging, and good protection. A bit of drizzle on this, but the rain fortunately held off. A long descent from the corner landed us next to Small Buttress, where we nipped up The Groove and Sion in double-quick time. We then moved over to Main Cliff for the splendid Jingling Wall. Alwyn led the first pitch - a steepish groove on good holds leads to a move right to gain another sloping groove then a nice slab back left to a belay. I then led the second: a steep but very enjoyable groove in a great position above Betws. Delightful ambience at the belay - this line is fairly obvious from the town, and the views down (and over to Siabod and the Carneddau) are excellent. Jingling Wall was so much fun we were eager for more, and I led Long Climb Direct straight after lunch. Another surprisingly good route. Up 'steps' to a ledge, then more steeply up an open groove to a round spike and steeper climbing on good holds to the belay ledge. It seemed obvious to merge the pitches, so I threaded the oak then continued up the steeper but juggy second pitch up a crack. Again, wonderfully relaxing and enjoyable climbing. The sun started to peep out as I seconded Alwyn up Hen Bryd. Similar to the other two, but not quite as distinguished. Nice moves round a little overhang to a ledge and another juggy finish. We rounded the day off with more easy routes on Small Buttress. I may well have done some of these on my previous visit. Sian, Siencyn and Morus were polished off in a few minutes (probably used by outdoor centres, rather polished but ideal for children). Finished with the 5a Eliminate Start to Direct Route, then The Arete - a great way to end, as this route is clearly visible from Betws. A tricky undercut start leads to easy climbing up a slender arete. Down well before 3pm, plenty of time for some food before the hour-long drive to Cadole where I did the full run up and down Moel Famau from the pub in 1:14. A couple of pints were much appreciated at the end of a long day.
Routes: Conwy Corner (S:led), The Groove (VD:sol), Sion (S:led), Jingling Wall (HS 4b,4b: led p.2), Long Climb Direct (S:led p.1,2 merged), Hen Bryd (S:sec), Sian (VD:sol), Siencyn (S:sol), Morus (VD:sol), Eliminate Start (VS 5a:sol), The Arete (HS 4b:led)
My sole previous visit to this crag was probably 16 years ago, when we scratched around on some short routes in pouring rain. This was a highly enjoyable day on an ultra-relaxing low key crag, just picking off some of the minor classics. Conwy Corner and Jingling Wall are easily the best lines, and I began with a lead of the former on Conwy Buttress: a very obvious right-angled corner, an irresistable line. It was a lovely pitch with nice incut jugs, easy bridging, and good protection. A bit of drizzle on this, but the rain fortunately held off. A long descent from the corner landed us next to Small Buttress, where we nipped up The Groove and Sion in double-quick time. We then moved over to Main Cliff for the splendid Jingling Wall. Alwyn led the first pitch - a steepish groove on good holds leads to a move right to gain another sloping groove then a nice slab back left to a belay. I then led the second: a steep but very enjoyable groove in a great position above Betws. Delightful ambience at the belay - this line is fairly obvious from the town, and the views down (and over to Siabod and the Carneddau) are excellent. Jingling Wall was so much fun we were eager for more, and I led Long Climb Direct straight after lunch. Another surprisingly good route. Up 'steps' to a ledge, then more steeply up an open groove to a round spike and steeper climbing on good holds to the belay ledge. It seemed obvious to merge the pitches, so I threaded the oak then continued up the steeper but juggy second pitch up a crack. Again, wonderfully relaxing and enjoyable climbing. The sun started to peep out as I seconded Alwyn up Hen Bryd. Similar to the other two, but not quite as distinguished. Nice moves round a little overhang to a ledge and another juggy finish. We rounded the day off with more easy routes on Small Buttress. I may well have done some of these on my previous visit. Sian, Siencyn and Morus were polished off in a few minutes (probably used by outdoor centres, rather polished but ideal for children). Finished with the 5a Eliminate Start to Direct Route, then The Arete - a great way to end, as this route is clearly visible from Betws. A tricky undercut start leads to easy climbing up a slender arete. Down well before 3pm, plenty of time for some food before the hour-long drive to Cadole where I did the full run up and down Moel Famau from the pub in 1:14. A couple of pints were much appreciated at the end of a long day.
Tuesday, June 09, 2009
Frodsham, Waun y Llyn
Tired after the race, so jogged up to and around Woodhouse Hill at Frodsham yesterday evening. Felt OK, and did Intermediate Route (5a) and other bouldering: crag damp and green throughout. Followed up with a longer run over Waun y Llyn to Coed Talon and back today. Worrying twinge below left knee.
Saturday, June 06, 2009
Welsh 1000m peaks race
Race: Welsh 1000m peaks fell race (22m/8000ft)
Peaks: Carnedd Llewellyn, Carnedd Dafydd, Carnedd Ugain, Yr Wyddfa
Time/Position: 5:21:28 (8th from 82 starters in Class A, 31 finished)
A weird sense of deja vu after finishing this race oblivious to any media interest, then seeing it on the news while relaxing at home in the evening. Rather strange to have been involved in this as well as last year's OMM (and also quite pleasing to have completed both in relative comfort before any subsequent 'abandonment'). It was a cracking day out, very much my cup of tea. The weather was bad, but nothing particularly unusual, more 'unseasonal'. The wind is the real issue, and it was only really strong between Llewellyn and Dafydd, and on top of Snowdon. I wore helly, windproof and waterproofs - and packed a sac with extra clothes. Seemed to do the trick, as I was relatively comfortable throughout. Started in heavy rain from Aber, then took it nice and easy up to Aber falls and Cwm Afon Goch. The slog up the slope below Bera Mawr comes immediately afterwards and is probably the toughest climb of the race. I got the compass out as the ground flattened out, took a line SW to pick up the cairned track which leads over to join the main track up Foel Grach. Skirted this (but deliberately missed the shortcuts further west, given poor viz), then ran up the main track to Llewellyn where my hands froze in a cold wind. Took 5 mins to get my gloves on, then enjoyed the very windy crossing to Dafydd - wild and exhilarating, no-one else in sight at this point. Very thick clag as I retraced my steps then took a vague bearing east to land dead on control FS (which was in the wrong place). Steeply down to the lake, then the awful tarmac down to the A5. Ate almost all I had on the long climb up Nant yr Ogof - the rain had eased slightly at this point and I felt OK after the food (wet liquorice is not ideal though!). Crested the Glyder ridge bang on Llyn Caseg Fraith. Given the importance of locating the next checkpoint, I got the map out and took proper bearings across the plateau. Definitely worth taking the extra time here! Virtually bumped into the marshall, so thick was the mist, then had a reasonably quick descent of the Miner's track, far more comfortable than last year (although my finishing time this year was nearly 15 mins down on 2008). Passed two runners on this descent, and - although I didn't know it - was 3rd or 4th at Pen y Pass after the lakeside bog. Lost 3 or 4 places immediately as others caught me on the lower Pyg track. But the race was in the bag, and I just tried to maintain reasonable pace - running where it levels off - up to a very windy Carnedd Ugain and Snowdon. A rather hostile summit, so I just ran down to Clogwyn, put on my fleece, and trotted down to Halfway House for a cup of tea and some chocolate. Another jog down to Electric Mountain (making the day a 27.5 mile ultra?!), where I met K,M,E. Only realised that things had gone wrong lower down the field (airlifts etc) when I watched the news later that evening. Over 50 in the fell runners A class retired (many presumably forced to stop at Ogwen), with similar proportions retiring in the other 6 (?) classes.
Peaks: Carnedd Llewellyn, Carnedd Dafydd, Carnedd Ugain, Yr Wyddfa
Time/Position: 5:21:28 (8th from 82 starters in Class A, 31 finished)
A weird sense of deja vu after finishing this race oblivious to any media interest, then seeing it on the news while relaxing at home in the evening. Rather strange to have been involved in this as well as last year's OMM (and also quite pleasing to have completed both in relative comfort before any subsequent 'abandonment'). It was a cracking day out, very much my cup of tea. The weather was bad, but nothing particularly unusual, more 'unseasonal'. The wind is the real issue, and it was only really strong between Llewellyn and Dafydd, and on top of Snowdon. I wore helly, windproof and waterproofs - and packed a sac with extra clothes. Seemed to do the trick, as I was relatively comfortable throughout. Started in heavy rain from Aber, then took it nice and easy up to Aber falls and Cwm Afon Goch. The slog up the slope below Bera Mawr comes immediately afterwards and is probably the toughest climb of the race. I got the compass out as the ground flattened out, took a line SW to pick up the cairned track which leads over to join the main track up Foel Grach. Skirted this (but deliberately missed the shortcuts further west, given poor viz), then ran up the main track to Llewellyn where my hands froze in a cold wind. Took 5 mins to get my gloves on, then enjoyed the very windy crossing to Dafydd - wild and exhilarating, no-one else in sight at this point. Very thick clag as I retraced my steps then took a vague bearing east to land dead on control FS (which was in the wrong place). Steeply down to the lake, then the awful tarmac down to the A5. Ate almost all I had on the long climb up Nant yr Ogof - the rain had eased slightly at this point and I felt OK after the food (wet liquorice is not ideal though!). Crested the Glyder ridge bang on Llyn Caseg Fraith. Given the importance of locating the next checkpoint, I got the map out and took proper bearings across the plateau. Definitely worth taking the extra time here! Virtually bumped into the marshall, so thick was the mist, then had a reasonably quick descent of the Miner's track, far more comfortable than last year (although my finishing time this year was nearly 15 mins down on 2008). Passed two runners on this descent, and - although I didn't know it - was 3rd or 4th at Pen y Pass after the lakeside bog. Lost 3 or 4 places immediately as others caught me on the lower Pyg track. But the race was in the bag, and I just tried to maintain reasonable pace - running where it levels off - up to a very windy Carnedd Ugain and Snowdon. A rather hostile summit, so I just ran down to Clogwyn, put on my fleece, and trotted down to Halfway House for a cup of tea and some chocolate. Another jog down to Electric Mountain (making the day a 27.5 mile ultra?!), where I met K,M,E. Only realised that things had gone wrong lower down the field (airlifts etc) when I watched the news later that evening. Over 50 in the fell runners A class retired (many presumably forced to stop at Ogwen), with similar proportions retiring in the other 6 (?) classes.
Thursday, June 04, 2009
Trevor climbs
Crag: Trevor Quarry
Routes: The Great Escape (f6a+:led), If I had (VS4b:sec), Hot Dog (f4:sec), All Fudd Up (f6a:led), Fudd Off (f6b:led)
A very brief and not entirely satisfactory evening trip. I began with a lead of one of the gaps on Compact Wall. The great escape goes easily enough to the final bolt, where I went left instead of right, treading very briefly on the bolt - annoying - before going back to complete the relatively straitforward sequence. Dale then led a VS, which I seconded along with Hot Dog. I then salvaged some pride with clean, very quick onsight leads of All Fudd Up (f6a) and Fudd Off (f6b). The latter my first lead at this grade for many years. Good climbing on small positive holds, good rough rock.
Routes: The Great Escape (f6a+:led), If I had (VS4b:sec), Hot Dog (f4:sec), All Fudd Up (f6a:led), Fudd Off (f6b:led)
A very brief and not entirely satisfactory evening trip. I began with a lead of one of the gaps on Compact Wall. The great escape goes easily enough to the final bolt, where I went left instead of right, treading very briefly on the bolt - annoying - before going back to complete the relatively straitforward sequence. Dale then led a VS, which I seconded along with Hot Dog. I then salvaged some pride with clean, very quick onsight leads of All Fudd Up (f6a) and Fudd Off (f6b). The latter my first lead at this grade for many years. Good climbing on small positive holds, good rough rock.
Tuesday, June 02, 2009
Fenlli run
Excellent evening running up Foel Fenlli twice, via a version of the Druid race route from Llanferres via Penbarras. A remarkably green, crystal clear landscape with far-reaching views to Snowdonia and Berwyn gave Neil and I several excuses to rest.
Monday, June 01, 2009
Lliwedd mountaineering, slate cragging
Peak/Crag: Lliwedd (2946ft/898m)
Routes: Slanting Buttress Ridge Route (D: led p.1,3,5,7)
Crag: Dali's Hole, Llanberis Slate
Routes: Mon Amie (f5b:led), Launching Pad (E1 5b:led), My Wife's an alien (f5:led), Captain Slog (f4c:sec)
An unusual, possibly unique, combination of routes and climbing styles. From route of the year (1904) to something a little more modern! Alwyn had also done Ras y Gader on Saturday so we were rather tired for the lengthy walk-in to Lliwedd. But the weather was truly stunning: amazing clarity, hot sunshine and not a breath of wind. Furthermore, we were early enough to find Lliwedd - notoriously hostile and north-facing - in the most benign conditions imaginable. So perhaps we should have been more ambitious. However, we wanted a mountaineering route so slogged up to Slanting Buttress on the right of the cliff. It's a great route despite its simplicity (only 3 or 4 'moves' in its entire 700ft+ length). Hugely enjoyable, surprisingly continuous, with an Alpine feel: perhaps PD+ would be a more appropriate grade. I led a very easy first pitch up the quartz slab, with Alwyn running another out to below the recess. I then led a merged pitch up to the recess, then good climbing up big flakes left to blocks - followed by the tricky gangway, with crack, which leads to another good ledge. Alwyn then led the very short 9m groove, with me getting the famously photogenic pitch up the a'cheval ridge. This was tremendous fun, still sun-drenched, up big holds to a horizontal knife-edge. Alwyn led the exposed but very easy traverse right to a stance below the big groove, which I then led. Quite polished climbing up to a pinnacle. Awkward pull to stand on top, then jugs lead right to a superb stance - cooled by a gentle breeze, looking out over Crib Goch and Llyn Llydaw, the crag below. An easy finishing pitch gains the top a little way below the summit - where we had lunch. The climbing was quick and efficient, taking just under two hours, so we descended to the car (a fair walk from the top of Lliwedd!) and headed off to the slate. I warmed up leading Mon Amie (f5b), a nice climb done before. Then had a bash at Launching Pad (E1 5b). This was splendid, although something of a soft-touch. Good climbing up the very well protected crack leads to excellent traverse moves on little edges left to the first bolt. Interesting climbing, fairly easy, gains the second bolt, before an enjoyable finish up a slanting crack leads to little jugs and the top. A pleasing lead. Finished with two scrappy newly bolted routes. A really good day: ultra-varied!
Routes: Slanting Buttress Ridge Route (D: led p.1,3,5,7)
Crag: Dali's Hole, Llanberis Slate
Routes: Mon Amie (f5b:led), Launching Pad (E1 5b:led), My Wife's an alien (f5:led), Captain Slog (f4c:sec)
An unusual, possibly unique, combination of routes and climbing styles. From route of the year (1904) to something a little more modern! Alwyn had also done Ras y Gader on Saturday so we were rather tired for the lengthy walk-in to Lliwedd. But the weather was truly stunning: amazing clarity, hot sunshine and not a breath of wind. Furthermore, we were early enough to find Lliwedd - notoriously hostile and north-facing - in the most benign conditions imaginable. So perhaps we should have been more ambitious. However, we wanted a mountaineering route so slogged up to Slanting Buttress on the right of the cliff. It's a great route despite its simplicity (only 3 or 4 'moves' in its entire 700ft+ length). Hugely enjoyable, surprisingly continuous, with an Alpine feel: perhaps PD+ would be a more appropriate grade. I led a very easy first pitch up the quartz slab, with Alwyn running another out to below the recess. I then led a merged pitch up to the recess, then good climbing up big flakes left to blocks - followed by the tricky gangway, with crack, which leads to another good ledge. Alwyn then led the very short 9m groove, with me getting the famously photogenic pitch up the a'cheval ridge. This was tremendous fun, still sun-drenched, up big holds to a horizontal knife-edge. Alwyn led the exposed but very easy traverse right to a stance below the big groove, which I then led. Quite polished climbing up to a pinnacle. Awkward pull to stand on top, then jugs lead right to a superb stance - cooled by a gentle breeze, looking out over Crib Goch and Llyn Llydaw, the crag below. An easy finishing pitch gains the top a little way below the summit - where we had lunch. The climbing was quick and efficient, taking just under two hours, so we descended to the car (a fair walk from the top of Lliwedd!) and headed off to the slate. I warmed up leading Mon Amie (f5b), a nice climb done before. Then had a bash at Launching Pad (E1 5b). This was splendid, although something of a soft-touch. Good climbing up the very well protected crack leads to excellent traverse moves on little edges left to the first bolt. Interesting climbing, fairly easy, gains the second bolt, before an enjoyable finish up a slanting crack leads to little jugs and the top. A pleasing lead. Finished with two scrappy newly bolted routes. A really good day: ultra-varied!
Saturday, May 30, 2009
Cader Idris race
Race: Ras y Gader (10.5m/2900ft)
Peaks: Cadair Idris (2930ft/893m)
Time/Position: 1:47:15 (29/260+)
Had no plans to do this race, but took the decision to make a family day of it at the last minute. The superb weather was also a factor: very warm sunshine, but also crystal clear, with almost no haze. Further, my two previous runnings of the race had been rather unsatisfactory, and this race has a great atmosphere: starting and finishing in the middle of my favourite Welsh town. I climbed quite well, walking just the zig zags, with a good, sustainable pace elsewhere. Felt pretty comfortable as I approached the rocky summit in 23rd place (64 mins), comfortable enough to relish the exhilerating early descent down the rocky gully to the fast grassy sprint to Rhiw Gwredydd. Superb views of sea and mountain ahead, although the next section - the steep short cut - requires full concentration! I picked up a couple more places before blowing badly as soon as the race flattens out at the Llyn Gwernan bog. This has been my bete noire in previous years and, annoyingly, was again. Lost several minutes and several places as I floundered through and lost all my strength. I roused myself to a limp jog round the lake and a reasonable finish down the road - but lacking any real speed and suffering with a stitch I lost a couple more places. Rather dehydrated, but perked up after water. We then left for the Precipice Walk, which I've never done before. M,D,M,E went to the lake - while Kate and I completed the walk, which is maximum reward for minimal effort. Stunning views of the Mawddach estuary in perfect late afternoon sunshine. Finished with a family picnic in an idyllic spot with views to Wyddfa and Moelwynion.
Peaks: Cadair Idris (2930ft/893m)
Time/Position: 1:47:15 (29/260+)
Had no plans to do this race, but took the decision to make a family day of it at the last minute. The superb weather was also a factor: very warm sunshine, but also crystal clear, with almost no haze. Further, my two previous runnings of the race had been rather unsatisfactory, and this race has a great atmosphere: starting and finishing in the middle of my favourite Welsh town. I climbed quite well, walking just the zig zags, with a good, sustainable pace elsewhere. Felt pretty comfortable as I approached the rocky summit in 23rd place (64 mins), comfortable enough to relish the exhilerating early descent down the rocky gully to the fast grassy sprint to Rhiw Gwredydd. Superb views of sea and mountain ahead, although the next section - the steep short cut - requires full concentration! I picked up a couple more places before blowing badly as soon as the race flattens out at the Llyn Gwernan bog. This has been my bete noire in previous years and, annoyingly, was again. Lost several minutes and several places as I floundered through and lost all my strength. I roused myself to a limp jog round the lake and a reasonable finish down the road - but lacking any real speed and suffering with a stitch I lost a couple more places. Rather dehydrated, but perked up after water. We then left for the Precipice Walk, which I've never done before. M,D,M,E went to the lake - while Kate and I completed the walk, which is maximum reward for minimal effort. Stunning views of the Mawddach estuary in perfect late afternoon sunshine. Finished with a family picnic in an idyllic spot with views to Wyddfa and Moelwynion.
Friday, May 29, 2009
Gamelin walk
A very pleasant birthday family walk, over Moel y Faen along the ridge to Gamelin and back. A pint in the Sun, and a paddle in the Dee to finish, as the weather starts to warm up.
Thursday, May 28, 2009
Clwydian run
Another good longish evening run last night, starting from Llanarmon yn Ial with Neil and heading direct for the top of Moel Gyw, a lung-busting climb. We then followed the circuit I did this time last year, southwards along the ridge but doggedly including all the tops: Moel Llanfair, Moel y Plas, Moel y Waun and Moel yr Accre above Llandegla. Quick running back from this final top to Llyn Gweryd and back down to the village.
Saturday, May 23, 2009
Castell Helen, Holyhead Mountain
Crag: Castell Helen, Anglesey
Routes: Lighthouse Arete Direct (VS 4c, 4b: led p.2),
Crag: Holyhead Mountain, Anglesey
Routes: Stairs (S: led), Cursing (VS 4c: sec)
Rather unlucky with the weather today. What might have been a really memorable trip petered out in classic coastal drizzle, wind and clag. That said, at least I was able to sample this excellent venue before the worst of the weather. Dull and dank as we descended to the base of Castell Helen. Conditions far from ideal as I belayed in the very wet (high tide) niche, lashed by occasional big waves and relishing the atmosphere - razorbills flying just a few feet away, seals bobbing around in the rough sea. Wind and some drizzle as I seconded Vic up the good first pitch of the direct, which goes up easy shelves to a steep crack on good holds: all rather greasy in the conditions. I was cold and wet after the stance, which wasn't pleasant. I then led the crux pitch of the normal route - just one move really, over a mini overhang to gain a very nice crack. Good holds and good gear allow you to enjoy the fabulous position. After a ledge, I continued up the easy final pitch of the arete: short walls and easy climbing but stopped a few metres below the top due to rope drag. Started to rain a bit harder as we topped out so we went to the cafe to consider our options. Decided against another Castell Helen route, a real shame, but retreated sensibly to the mountain - a 20 min walk - where I merged both pitches of Stairs (S). This is very simple, so I followed the arete left for more interest (had no guidebook). Pleasant enough. Vic then led the much better Cursing (VS 4c), a very good route with two splendid moves: one up a steep flake to the arete, and then a swing under the top roof to gain the final diagonal crack. Good, varied pitch. Downclimbed the pinnacle and led the Plimsoll scramble to finish as the rain began in earnest and the crag disappeared into the mist.
Routes: Lighthouse Arete Direct (VS 4c, 4b: led p.2),
Crag: Holyhead Mountain, Anglesey
Routes: Stairs (S: led), Cursing (VS 4c: sec)
Rather unlucky with the weather today. What might have been a really memorable trip petered out in classic coastal drizzle, wind and clag. That said, at least I was able to sample this excellent venue before the worst of the weather. Dull and dank as we descended to the base of Castell Helen. Conditions far from ideal as I belayed in the very wet (high tide) niche, lashed by occasional big waves and relishing the atmosphere - razorbills flying just a few feet away, seals bobbing around in the rough sea. Wind and some drizzle as I seconded Vic up the good first pitch of the direct, which goes up easy shelves to a steep crack on good holds: all rather greasy in the conditions. I was cold and wet after the stance, which wasn't pleasant. I then led the crux pitch of the normal route - just one move really, over a mini overhang to gain a very nice crack. Good holds and good gear allow you to enjoy the fabulous position. After a ledge, I continued up the easy final pitch of the arete: short walls and easy climbing but stopped a few metres below the top due to rope drag. Started to rain a bit harder as we topped out so we went to the cafe to consider our options. Decided against another Castell Helen route, a real shame, but retreated sensibly to the mountain - a 20 min walk - where I merged both pitches of Stairs (S). This is very simple, so I followed the arete left for more interest (had no guidebook). Pleasant enough. Vic then led the much better Cursing (VS 4c), a very good route with two splendid moves: one up a steep flake to the arete, and then a swing under the top roof to gain the final diagonal crack. Good, varied pitch. Downclimbed the pinnacle and led the Plimsoll scramble to finish as the rain began in earnest and the crag disappeared into the mist.
Friday, May 22, 2009
Berwyn run
Peaks: Mynydd Tarw (2234/681), Foel Wen South (2254/687), Foel Wen (2267/691), Tomle (2434/742), Cadair Bronwen (2575/785), Cadair Berwyn (2713/827), Cadair Berwyn North (2723/830), Moel Sych (2713/827)
Area: Berwyn
A splendid evening after a showery and changeable week: the weather stabilised just in time for this. Left Cwm Maen Gwynedd with Neil at 5.30 for the steep pull up Mynydd Tarw, 19 minutes from the car. Then good ridge running, although very boggy, over the Foel Wen and Tomle tops to the contouring path at Ffordd Gam Elin. Nipped over to Cadair Bronwen, all at good pace, then superb continuous running along the ridge with excellent far-reaching views down to Shropshire and up to central Snowdonia. Very green after all the rain, and boggy even on the main ridge. Moel Sych is always boggy, despite its name, and today was no exception. From here, we nipped along the very narrow path above Llyn Lluncaws and straight down to Maen Gwynedd: 2:15 for the complete circuit, quite a good pace. Followed this run with the full run up Moel Famau next day (ie this evening). Combined with an 11 mile Hope Mountain run on Monday, intervals on Tuesday, and the 10k on Wednesday, it feels like a fuller week for a change.
Area: Berwyn
A splendid evening after a showery and changeable week: the weather stabilised just in time for this. Left Cwm Maen Gwynedd with Neil at 5.30 for the steep pull up Mynydd Tarw, 19 minutes from the car. Then good ridge running, although very boggy, over the Foel Wen and Tomle tops to the contouring path at Ffordd Gam Elin. Nipped over to Cadair Bronwen, all at good pace, then superb continuous running along the ridge with excellent far-reaching views down to Shropshire and up to central Snowdonia. Very green after all the rain, and boggy even on the main ridge. Moel Sych is always boggy, despite its name, and today was no exception. From here, we nipped along the very narrow path above Llyn Lluncaws and straight down to Maen Gwynedd: 2:15 for the complete circuit, quite a good pace. Followed this run with the full run up Moel Famau next day (ie this evening). Combined with an 11 mile Hope Mountain run on Monday, intervals on Tuesday, and the 10k on Wednesday, it feels like a fuller week for a change.
Saturday, May 16, 2009
Roaches climbing
Crag: Roaches Lower Tier, Peak
Routes: Fledgling climb (S4a:sec), Prow Corner right-hand (HVD4a:led), Prow Crack (D:sol), Captain's lethargy (VD:led)
Managed to squeeze a brief climbing trip to the Roaches in after a long day at a conference in Derby. Given 6am start, long stressful day, and very poor unseasonal weather, a few easy climbs was all we could realistically manage. Met Dale at Ramshaw, but the crag looked damp so we moved round to the Roaches lower tier, empty on a Saturday which says something about the conditions. Dale led Fledgling Climb up a blunt arete on the lower tier in damp and windy conditions. Not a bad route. I followed up with the simple Prow Corner: took the obvious twin cracks right of the corner for an enjoyable steady lead, albeit very easy. We were obviously in for a soaking, big black clouds steaming in from the south, so I nipped up Prow Crack - great fun, then Captain's Lethargy, in super-quick time. We just managed to get some damp bouldering in: literally sprinting between micro-routes in the drizzle, before a real downpour sent us scurrying to the car. Quite a contrast with Esterel! Still haven't managed to get back on track with the running, but did manage 12 miles from Cadole to Pantymwyn and back, then up Moel Famau by the normal route on Friday evening.
Routes: Fledgling climb (S4a:sec), Prow Corner right-hand (HVD4a:led), Prow Crack (D:sol), Captain's lethargy (VD:led)
Managed to squeeze a brief climbing trip to the Roaches in after a long day at a conference in Derby. Given 6am start, long stressful day, and very poor unseasonal weather, a few easy climbs was all we could realistically manage. Met Dale at Ramshaw, but the crag looked damp so we moved round to the Roaches lower tier, empty on a Saturday which says something about the conditions. Dale led Fledgling Climb up a blunt arete on the lower tier in damp and windy conditions. Not a bad route. I followed up with the simple Prow Corner: took the obvious twin cracks right of the corner for an enjoyable steady lead, albeit very easy. We were obviously in for a soaking, big black clouds steaming in from the south, so I nipped up Prow Crack - great fun, then Captain's Lethargy, in super-quick time. We just managed to get some damp bouldering in: literally sprinting between micro-routes in the drizzle, before a real downpour sent us scurrying to the car. Quite a contrast with Esterel! Still haven't managed to get back on track with the running, but did manage 12 miles from Cadole to Pantymwyn and back, then up Moel Famau by the normal route on Friday evening.
Saturday, May 09, 2009
Foel Fras race
Race: Foel Fras fell race (12m/3100ft)
Peaks: Drum, Foel Fras, Garnedd Uchaf, Moel Wnion
Time/Position: 2:11:49 (12/84)
An unexpectedly memorable day out. I got back from Glasgow last night, after deciding against an attempt on Tranter's round in the Highlands (gales, blizzards prevailing), so decided to do this AL race at the last minute. Very little running since the marathon, so was pleased to feel good for the very long but relatively gentle climb from Aber over the Roman Road and track to Drum. The wind was swirling around at this point, but only light rain. Very windy for the route over to Foel Fras, where the conditions really deteriorated. However, I felt good, enjoying the conditions, and raced across to Garnedd Uchaf in heavy rain, mist and strong winds. The crucial navigation came at just the wrong time for most runners: tired after a long climb, just as the weather closed in, ideal for hypothermia. A small group of us struggled to take a bearing (my hands were frozen and couldn't move the compass base) and we headed off WNW to pick up the track skirting the Beras. Really quite uncomfortable, very wet and mildly hypothermic throughout. But the big col below Wnion is a sizeable target, and the mist cleared as we descended. I then took off up Wnion, but with very stiff legs this was not especially runnable. Recovered to make a pretty quick descent from the top of Wnion over Cras to the village - the sea almost Med-like as the weather ironically cleared up! Arrived at the finish to find the conditions had decimated the field, with lots of runners awol higher up. Cracking race, a lovely logical circuit, and very runnable even for me.
Peaks: Drum, Foel Fras, Garnedd Uchaf, Moel Wnion
Time/Position: 2:11:49 (12/84)
An unexpectedly memorable day out. I got back from Glasgow last night, after deciding against an attempt on Tranter's round in the Highlands (gales, blizzards prevailing), so decided to do this AL race at the last minute. Very little running since the marathon, so was pleased to feel good for the very long but relatively gentle climb from Aber over the Roman Road and track to Drum. The wind was swirling around at this point, but only light rain. Very windy for the route over to Foel Fras, where the conditions really deteriorated. However, I felt good, enjoying the conditions, and raced across to Garnedd Uchaf in heavy rain, mist and strong winds. The crucial navigation came at just the wrong time for most runners: tired after a long climb, just as the weather closed in, ideal for hypothermia. A small group of us struggled to take a bearing (my hands were frozen and couldn't move the compass base) and we headed off WNW to pick up the track skirting the Beras. Really quite uncomfortable, very wet and mildly hypothermic throughout. But the big col below Wnion is a sizeable target, and the mist cleared as we descended. I then took off up Wnion, but with very stiff legs this was not especially runnable. Recovered to make a pretty quick descent from the top of Wnion over Cras to the village - the sea almost Med-like as the weather ironically cleared up! Arrived at the finish to find the conditions had decimated the field, with lots of runners awol higher up. Cracking race, a lovely logical circuit, and very runnable even for me.
Wednesday, May 06, 2009
Colle sur Loup climbs
Crag: Colle sur Loup, Alpes-Maritimes, France
Routes: Le triomphe des grosses (f5b:sec), Ainsi grimpait Patrick (f6a+:sec), Altitude 1664 (f6a:sec), Sourire Kabyle (f6a:sec), Le grimpeur du val (f5b:led), Monsieur Spoc (f5c:sec), Bibi et Fricotin (f5b:sec), Le Maitre des equilibres (f6a+:sec), Ethylia (f5c:led), Le chouchou (f3:sol), L'age des cavernes (f4:sol), Horizontal illimite (f3:sol), Genie sans frotter (f3:sol), Si la terre (f3:sol)
We dubbed this the 'airport crag', since it seems to be the closest climbing to Nice airport. Hardly the best crag in Provence, but still a good choice for the inevitably short final day. The crag (Bagaree) is extremely convenient, even by French standards, with names/grades given on an official plaque beside the cliff. It was a pleasant change to sample some limestone after Esterel's rhyolite, although all the routes were extremely polished. Nice locale, too, in a small gorge right next to the River Loup. Vic led the corner of Le Triomphe, and we took the opportunity to TR the harder routes right. All involved similar moves to gain and then leave a series of horizontal breaks: lots of long reaches and tenuous pushes required for success. Sourire Kabyle 6a took a couple of attempts to work out the sequence. I led the juggy 5b wall of Le grimpeur, followed by the good line of Monsieur Spoc - a waterworn 5c groove, very polished. Le Maitre des equilibres was another notable 6a+ involving a sustained bouldery sequence of moves to gain a jug at the break. Finished in fine style, with a lead of Ethylia which seemed perhaps the line of the crag. Ultra-polished, like marble in places, but I polished it off pleasingly comfortably. Steep moves gain the top of a big flake. Then a steep but juggy wall gains a final layback to the top. Easily the best route of the day, a nice finale. Played around on a few microroutes at the end of the crag, ostensibly to assess their suitability for the family when we come in July, but also to bring the route total up to 40 for the four days of the trip! Left for the airport after a relaxing paddle in the Loup.
Routes: Le triomphe des grosses (f5b:sec), Ainsi grimpait Patrick (f6a+:sec), Altitude 1664 (f6a:sec), Sourire Kabyle (f6a:sec), Le grimpeur du val (f5b:led), Monsieur Spoc (f5c:sec), Bibi et Fricotin (f5b:sec), Le Maitre des equilibres (f6a+:sec), Ethylia (f5c:led), Le chouchou (f3:sol), L'age des cavernes (f4:sol), Horizontal illimite (f3:sol), Genie sans frotter (f3:sol), Si la terre (f3:sol)
We dubbed this the 'airport crag', since it seems to be the closest climbing to Nice airport. Hardly the best crag in Provence, but still a good choice for the inevitably short final day. The crag (Bagaree) is extremely convenient, even by French standards, with names/grades given on an official plaque beside the cliff. It was a pleasant change to sample some limestone after Esterel's rhyolite, although all the routes were extremely polished. Nice locale, too, in a small gorge right next to the River Loup. Vic led the corner of Le Triomphe, and we took the opportunity to TR the harder routes right. All involved similar moves to gain and then leave a series of horizontal breaks: lots of long reaches and tenuous pushes required for success. Sourire Kabyle 6a took a couple of attempts to work out the sequence. I led the juggy 5b wall of Le grimpeur, followed by the good line of Monsieur Spoc - a waterworn 5c groove, very polished. Le Maitre des equilibres was another notable 6a+ involving a sustained bouldery sequence of moves to gain a jug at the break. Finished in fine style, with a lead of Ethylia which seemed perhaps the line of the crag. Ultra-polished, like marble in places, but I polished it off pleasingly comfortably. Steep moves gain the top of a big flake. Then a steep but juggy wall gains a final layback to the top. Easily the best route of the day, a nice finale. Played around on a few microroutes at the end of the crag, ostensibly to assess their suitability for the family when we come in July, but also to bring the route total up to 40 for the four days of the trip! Left for the airport after a relaxing paddle in the Loup.
Tuesday, May 05, 2009
Blavet, Roussivau climbs
Crag: Gorges du Blavet, Esterel, France
Routes: Le Deserteur (f5a:led), J'irai cracher sur vos tombes (f6a:sec), Vergecinclitorix (f5c:sec), Minez la police (f5c:led), L'automne a Pekin (f6a:sec), Cristal qui songe (f6a:sec), Comme un avion sans aile (f6a:sec), Le double je du tu (f5a:led), Je est un autre (f5a:sec)
Crag: Barre de Roussivau, Esterel, France
Routes: Zootomie (f5a:sec), Zourouche (f4a:sec), Martians go home (f4b:led)
Quite a big day, as the list of routes suggests. It was always the plan to head off to Blavet at some point and, although we were detained too long by the shorter routes, the visit gave some superb climbing. The edge of the gorge is gained quite easily down a scrambly path and the routes on the first big slab were impossible to resist. I led Le Deserteur (5a) as an hors d'oeuvre. Delightful climbing, gently sustained at low-end British VS: perfect rough rock, not a hint of polish, and some nice, elegant moves. J'irai cracher (6a) upped the grade and was a tremendous, varied 20m pitch. A delicate start on very small holds, followed by an easier section to a powerful semi-overhanging flake which is laybacked. The crux comes right at the top: a very long reach over a big bulge for a huge jug. Vic then led Vergecinclitorix, a soft-touch 5c up the slender pillar right of the deep chimney. Another appealing and excellent climb, with some very enjoyable moves. I followed with a lead of Minez la police (5c) at the far left of the crag. This was quite sustained for the first 10m, a splendid sequence of moves on small, positive holds to an easier section leading to a final steep wall. Another really good 20m pitch. Followed by seconding L'automne a Pekin - very tough start up a smooth wall on tiny holds gains more sustained 6a climbing on small crimps. Great stuff. After clearing up the routes on this face, we moved up to the Petit Canyon which was attractively shaded. Seconding Vic up to the final slab, and crux, of Cristal (6a+). This was far harder than it looked, but an excellent line - felt like UK E2. Up a leaning flake to steep sustained moves right to an awkward sloping groove. Followed up with Comme un avion, up an obvious thin groove left. After feeling good and climbing well earlier on, I started to feel the pace here and found this 6a tricky - began to feel clumsy and weak! Awkward bridging on small holds and lichenous rock gain the top with a superb view out to the spectacular main canyon. Finished with two undergraded slabby routes, delicate - but me feeling tired. We topped out on the second of these and walked back to the car, hoping to perk up with some food before heading to Roussivau. After a longish drive, we arrived at the forest lodge and began the steep walk in, the only time we were uncomfortably hot all trip, up the maquis to the crag. I've done a lot of the routes here, but wanted to at least visit the place again. Vic led Zootomie, the delightful VS up the positive crack on the edge of the slab. I did this several times in the early 90s, so it was nice to do it again (and Zourouche, the groove on the left). Finished with a lead of Martians go home (f4b), which was an ideal way to end. A nice little UK Severe, up jugs to a lovely traverse right above a small cave, then more jugs up a shallow groove to finish. This crag has a unique ambience - nightingales and cuckoo singing, honey buzzard overhead as we walked back to the car through wild honeysuckle and other interesting maquis flora. Nice to have a three minute trip back to the campsite and well deserved beer.
Routes: Le Deserteur (f5a:led), J'irai cracher sur vos tombes (f6a:sec), Vergecinclitorix (f5c:sec), Minez la police (f5c:led), L'automne a Pekin (f6a:sec), Cristal qui songe (f6a:sec), Comme un avion sans aile (f6a:sec), Le double je du tu (f5a:led), Je est un autre (f5a:sec)
Crag: Barre de Roussivau, Esterel, France
Routes: Zootomie (f5a:sec), Zourouche (f4a:sec), Martians go home (f4b:led)
Quite a big day, as the list of routes suggests. It was always the plan to head off to Blavet at some point and, although we were detained too long by the shorter routes, the visit gave some superb climbing. The edge of the gorge is gained quite easily down a scrambly path and the routes on the first big slab were impossible to resist. I led Le Deserteur (5a) as an hors d'oeuvre. Delightful climbing, gently sustained at low-end British VS: perfect rough rock, not a hint of polish, and some nice, elegant moves. J'irai cracher (6a) upped the grade and was a tremendous, varied 20m pitch. A delicate start on very small holds, followed by an easier section to a powerful semi-overhanging flake which is laybacked. The crux comes right at the top: a very long reach over a big bulge for a huge jug. Vic then led Vergecinclitorix, a soft-touch 5c up the slender pillar right of the deep chimney. Another appealing and excellent climb, with some very enjoyable moves. I followed with a lead of Minez la police (5c) at the far left of the crag. This was quite sustained for the first 10m, a splendid sequence of moves on small, positive holds to an easier section leading to a final steep wall. Another really good 20m pitch. Followed by seconding L'automne a Pekin - very tough start up a smooth wall on tiny holds gains more sustained 6a climbing on small crimps. Great stuff. After clearing up the routes on this face, we moved up to the Petit Canyon which was attractively shaded. Seconding Vic up to the final slab, and crux, of Cristal (6a+). This was far harder than it looked, but an excellent line - felt like UK E2. Up a leaning flake to steep sustained moves right to an awkward sloping groove. Followed up with Comme un avion, up an obvious thin groove left. After feeling good and climbing well earlier on, I started to feel the pace here and found this 6a tricky - began to feel clumsy and weak! Awkward bridging on small holds and lichenous rock gain the top with a superb view out to the spectacular main canyon. Finished with two undergraded slabby routes, delicate - but me feeling tired. We topped out on the second of these and walked back to the car, hoping to perk up with some food before heading to Roussivau. After a longish drive, we arrived at the forest lodge and began the steep walk in, the only time we were uncomfortably hot all trip, up the maquis to the crag. I've done a lot of the routes here, but wanted to at least visit the place again. Vic led Zootomie, the delightful VS up the positive crack on the edge of the slab. I did this several times in the early 90s, so it was nice to do it again (and Zourouche, the groove on the left). Finished with a lead of Martians go home (f4b), which was an ideal way to end. A nice little UK Severe, up jugs to a lovely traverse right above a small cave, then more jugs up a shallow groove to finish. This crag has a unique ambience - nightingales and cuckoo singing, honey buzzard overhead as we walked back to the car through wild honeysuckle and other interesting maquis flora. Nice to have a three minute trip back to the campsite and well deserved beer.
Monday, May 04, 2009
Pic du Perthus climbs
Crag: Pic du Perthus, Esterel, France
Routes: Reynard aux 8000 couleurs (f5b+,f5c,f5a+:led p.1,p.3), M'as-tu Vu? (f5b+:led), Les Jeunes Loups (f5b:sec), En attendant god off p.1 (f5c:led), Profit au Tyrol p.2 (f5c:sec)
After a good night's sleep, and a beautiful Agay dawn, the time seemed right for a day on the Esterel's most impressive crag. Pic du Perthus is a tremendous venue - a good half hour walk from Col de Mistral, and therefore has a powerful, remote atmosphere. Remarkable, given its proximity to the coast. We walked down the defunct road then up the new track to the bottom of the crag, going straight across to the far right of the cliff and what I hoped was the start of Reynard. Bit of guesswork, as the first pitch goes up a slabby corner to gain an easier broken section. Then two steep walls with interesting moves on small positive holds gain a lovely belay ledge. A good 40m pitch with a strong mountaineering flavour, delightfully varied. Vic then led the excellent second pitch, more sustained - top end British VS - on perfect rock up little walls and flakes to gain another atmospheric ledge near the top of the crag. I completed the route with a delicate slab which led to finishing jugs. Grande classique - a great mountaineering route in a fabulous position. We scrambled down the descent gully to the 25m slab of perfect rock which I remembered from my last visit in 1994. I led M'as-tu vu at the left of the slab. Steeper than the other routes with a very hard start (one rest). Felt 6a+ at least. Then sustained but positive small holds led to the top. Seconded the splendid Jeunes Loups (f5b) which I did in 1994 - superb gently sustained climbing on perfect rock, solutions never obvious, good satisfying moves. The slab was sun-drenched and hot, so we moved back to the main face as I was keen for Vic to sample the corner line of Profit au Tyrol, a route that's lived in my memory since 1994. I decided to vary the route up to it, taking the direct pitch of En attendant god off (f5c). This was an excellent 25m British HVS pitch. A steep series of grooves, all leading logically to the large belay ledge - small jugs and fine, satisfying climbing. Seconded Vic up the fabulous top corner of Profit au Tyrol: steep all the way, but festooned with ludicrously perfect holds, particularly on the final overhang. Two abs saw us back at the foot of the crag as the first drop of rain fell. Light drizzle as we walked back, then a downpour all afternoon (but we'd planned to get food anyway!). I went for a 5 mile run (the 'Germain' circuit) around the Esterel later that evening.
Routes: Reynard aux 8000 couleurs (f5b+,f5c,f5a+:led p.1,p.3), M'as-tu Vu? (f5b+:led), Les Jeunes Loups (f5b:sec), En attendant god off p.1 (f5c:led), Profit au Tyrol p.2 (f5c:sec)
After a good night's sleep, and a beautiful Agay dawn, the time seemed right for a day on the Esterel's most impressive crag. Pic du Perthus is a tremendous venue - a good half hour walk from Col de Mistral, and therefore has a powerful, remote atmosphere. Remarkable, given its proximity to the coast. We walked down the defunct road then up the new track to the bottom of the crag, going straight across to the far right of the cliff and what I hoped was the start of Reynard. Bit of guesswork, as the first pitch goes up a slabby corner to gain an easier broken section. Then two steep walls with interesting moves on small positive holds gain a lovely belay ledge. A good 40m pitch with a strong mountaineering flavour, delightfully varied. Vic then led the excellent second pitch, more sustained - top end British VS - on perfect rock up little walls and flakes to gain another atmospheric ledge near the top of the crag. I completed the route with a delicate slab which led to finishing jugs. Grande classique - a great mountaineering route in a fabulous position. We scrambled down the descent gully to the 25m slab of perfect rock which I remembered from my last visit in 1994. I led M'as-tu vu at the left of the slab. Steeper than the other routes with a very hard start (one rest). Felt 6a+ at least. Then sustained but positive small holds led to the top. Seconded the splendid Jeunes Loups (f5b) which I did in 1994 - superb gently sustained climbing on perfect rock, solutions never obvious, good satisfying moves. The slab was sun-drenched and hot, so we moved back to the main face as I was keen for Vic to sample the corner line of Profit au Tyrol, a route that's lived in my memory since 1994. I decided to vary the route up to it, taking the direct pitch of En attendant god off (f5c). This was an excellent 25m British HVS pitch. A steep series of grooves, all leading logically to the large belay ledge - small jugs and fine, satisfying climbing. Seconded Vic up the fabulous top corner of Profit au Tyrol: steep all the way, but festooned with ludicrously perfect holds, particularly on the final overhang. Two abs saw us back at the foot of the crag as the first drop of rain fell. Light drizzle as we walked back, then a downpour all afternoon (but we'd planned to get food anyway!). I went for a 5 mile run (the 'Germain' circuit) around the Esterel later that evening.
Sunday, May 03, 2009
Cap Dramont climbs
Crag: Cap Dramont, Esterel, France
Routes: Du Punch dans les Roubignoles (f5b, led), Viet Congs en Folie (f5c?, sec), Un Adminicul au prealable du trop directe (f5c, led), Un Adminicul normale (f5c, sec), Un Taxi pour que brute (f5c, sec), Brouille-moi l'ecoule (f4c, led), Divorce pour faute (f6a?, sec), Va Comprendre Charles (f5a, led), Bento (f5b, sec)
After a 7.15 flight, we were at the crag in glorious sunshine by midday. Azure blue sky, the Med shimmering below the red rhyolite rocks of this cracking crag. Dramont was the ideal place to begin our all-too-brief Provencal climbing trip: a short walk, straitforward well-bolted routes, deliciously warm, and a fabulous scenic contrast with home. We started sensibly on the shady east face. I began with a lead of Du Punch (f5b), an obvious slabby groove line. This was a good choice: steady and very enjoyable climbing, just a shame it wasn't twice as long. Vic then led the undergraded Viet Congs en Folie (f5c?) up the much steeper groove to the right. Hard moves follow to leave the groove and traverse the steep wall right to gain the arete: another good route. I then upped the standard with a lead of Un Adminicul (f5c), following the direct start up the steep but positive crack/groove at the left of this section. This leads to a high step before a steep, strenuous traverse left to gain a short bottomless groove. Sustained but positive climbing up this gains the top - a really good, varied route. Followed this with the awkward normal start to the route, then seconded the crack/groove (Un Taxi? 5c) in full. Needed a rest after these relatively strenuous routes, so led Brouille-moi l'ecoute (f4c) - a pleasant and relaxing pitch up the obvious slabby flake on the left of the cliff. Then seconded Divorce pour faute, with a seemingly desperate start up small, sloping holds. Tiring now, unsurprisingly after a 5am start from HK. So finished with a lead of the slabby Va Comprendre Charles (f5a) on the main face - a good long pitch, fairly simple and steady but gently thought-provoking and sustained at the standard throughout. Vic finished with the overgraded Bento (f5b), an easy romp up a slabby crack. Good start, just a shame that the big routes were busy - and we were rather tired!
Routes: Du Punch dans les Roubignoles (f5b, led), Viet Congs en Folie (f5c?, sec), Un Adminicul au prealable du trop directe (f5c, led), Un Adminicul normale (f5c, sec), Un Taxi pour que brute (f5c, sec), Brouille-moi l'ecoule (f4c, led), Divorce pour faute (f6a?, sec), Va Comprendre Charles (f5a, led), Bento (f5b, sec)
After a 7.15 flight, we were at the crag in glorious sunshine by midday. Azure blue sky, the Med shimmering below the red rhyolite rocks of this cracking crag. Dramont was the ideal place to begin our all-too-brief Provencal climbing trip: a short walk, straitforward well-bolted routes, deliciously warm, and a fabulous scenic contrast with home. We started sensibly on the shady east face. I began with a lead of Du Punch (f5b), an obvious slabby groove line. This was a good choice: steady and very enjoyable climbing, just a shame it wasn't twice as long. Vic then led the undergraded Viet Congs en Folie (f5c?) up the much steeper groove to the right. Hard moves follow to leave the groove and traverse the steep wall right to gain the arete: another good route. I then upped the standard with a lead of Un Adminicul (f5c), following the direct start up the steep but positive crack/groove at the left of this section. This leads to a high step before a steep, strenuous traverse left to gain a short bottomless groove. Sustained but positive climbing up this gains the top - a really good, varied route. Followed this with the awkward normal start to the route, then seconded the crack/groove (Un Taxi? 5c) in full. Needed a rest after these relatively strenuous routes, so led Brouille-moi l'ecoute (f4c) - a pleasant and relaxing pitch up the obvious slabby flake on the left of the cliff. Then seconded Divorce pour faute, with a seemingly desperate start up small, sloping holds. Tiring now, unsurprisingly after a 5am start from HK. So finished with a lead of the slabby Va Comprendre Charles (f5a) on the main face - a good long pitch, fairly simple and steady but gently thought-provoking and sustained at the standard throughout. Vic finished with the overgraded Bento (f5b), an easy romp up a slabby crack. Good start, just a shame that the big routes were busy - and we were rather tired!
Friday, May 01, 2009
Famau run
Just recuperating after London, so nothing much done this week. A cold had developed by Monday, but cleared in time for the Moel Famau run this evening. Felt surprisingly good all the way to the top in nice sunshine. Now looking forward to the Provencal climbing trip: we leave early on Sunday morning.
Monday, April 27, 2009
London Marathon
Race: London Marathon
Time/Position: 3:13:46 (2075/38000)
About 20 minutes down on my target time, conclusively proving (for me anyway!) that you can't train for a road marathon by doing long runs and races in the hills. So all rather disappointing, although it was still an enjoyable day with the usual fantastic and memorable atmosphere. Met Neil at the 'fast good for age' start at the front of the race and therefore got away with no obstacles in sunny, warm weather. The first half went reasonably well, consistent target pace, in 1:28:46 (almost the same as Edinburgh). I instinctively knew that it wasn't in my legs, though, as they started to protest at the flat pounding (for which I hadn't trained) at mile 14. Much earlier than I'd expected to have problems, so I stopped, drank a bottle of water, ate my only gel along with a few sweets, and felt a bit better. I lost loads of time during this bad patch, but this had the pleasing effect of making the final 8 miles or so a lot of fun. No pressure, way off PB, so I just enjoyed the fabulous atmosphere, saw all my family and tried to at least get a respectable time. My eleventh marathon, and third London.
Time/Position: 3:13:46 (2075/38000)
About 20 minutes down on my target time, conclusively proving (for me anyway!) that you can't train for a road marathon by doing long runs and races in the hills. So all rather disappointing, although it was still an enjoyable day with the usual fantastic and memorable atmosphere. Met Neil at the 'fast good for age' start at the front of the race and therefore got away with no obstacles in sunny, warm weather. The first half went reasonably well, consistent target pace, in 1:28:46 (almost the same as Edinburgh). I instinctively knew that it wasn't in my legs, though, as they started to protest at the flat pounding (for which I hadn't trained) at mile 14. Much earlier than I'd expected to have problems, so I stopped, drank a bottle of water, ate my only gel along with a few sweets, and felt a bit better. I lost loads of time during this bad patch, but this had the pleasing effect of making the final 8 miles or so a lot of fun. No pressure, way off PB, so I just enjoyed the fabulous atmosphere, saw all my family and tried to at least get a respectable time. My eleventh marathon, and third London.
Friday, April 24, 2009
Trevor climbing
Crag: Trevor Quarry
Routes: My Route (VS 4b), The Fat Controller (S 4a), The Thin Controller (VS 4a)
A rather rushed climbing trip yesterday evening. Didn't actually get started on the first route until 7pm. Dale lead, up the centre of the main Trevor quarry face (My Route, VS 4b). It was a pretty unpleasant affair, very loose in places, although it did take an appealingly direct line. We then scurried off to the Railway Buttress, where I lead The Fat Controller - a short, easy, but pleasant S 4a. Simple bridging, well protected, leads to a little bulge and the top. Dale finished off with The Thin Controller (VS 4a) in fading light. Virtually dark as I seconded up it. Had a little jog before the climbing, and a jog back to the car - a very easy week in preparation for Sunday's marathon.
Routes: My Route (VS 4b), The Fat Controller (S 4a), The Thin Controller (VS 4a)
A rather rushed climbing trip yesterday evening. Didn't actually get started on the first route until 7pm. Dale lead, up the centre of the main Trevor quarry face (My Route, VS 4b). It was a pretty unpleasant affair, very loose in places, although it did take an appealingly direct line. We then scurried off to the Railway Buttress, where I lead The Fat Controller - a short, easy, but pleasant S 4a. Simple bridging, well protected, leads to a little bulge and the top. Dale finished off with The Thin Controller (VS 4a) in fading light. Virtually dark as I seconded up it. Had a little jog before the climbing, and a jog back to the car - a very easy week in preparation for Sunday's marathon.
Saturday, April 18, 2009
Moelwyn fell race
Race: Ras y Moelwyn (10.5m/2800ft)
Peaks: Moelwyn Mawr (2525ft/770m), Moelwyn Bach (2329ft/710m), Moel yr Hydd (2126ft/648m)
Time/Position: 1:35:36 (23/116)
A hugely enjoyable day out on this classic mountain race: wonderfully varied with a nice community atmosphere. The weather was perfect, which always helps: sunny, clear, but reasonably cool. The route is logical and appealing. It provides a bit of everything: steep climbs, grassy descents, rocky terrain, bogs, quarries. Nicely runnable from the start in Blaenau Ffestiniog up the tracks above Tanygrisiau to the old quarries in Cwm Orthin: a unique landscape. Past Llyn Cwmorthin to a long, rather hot but largely runnable climb above Rhosydd quarry - emerging from the industrial landscape to great views over to Cnicht, Wyddfa, Nantlle. After a bog trot, the east ridge of Moelwyn Mawr is steep but enjoyable. Then comes the very steep descent down over the rocky subsidiary summit and ridge of Craigysgafn, followed by the steep but short climb up Moelwyn Bach. Another steep descent down a rocky groove leads to a very fast descent over bog and grass to Llyn Stwlan. Along the dam wall to a steep climb leading to a plateau and the final shortish climb up Moel yr Hydd (possibly only the second time I've been up this peak, although most of the rest of the route is quite familiar). I was feeling quite good at this stage, but was deliberately slow and tentative on the rocky descents (given that London is only a week away!). An exhilerating final descent down a side valley (I sank waist-deep into a bog during this!) back to the lake and route of ascent. I settled for my position and just jogged back to the finish, despite being just behind a largish group, trying to save some energy for the forthcoming marathon. Probably not the wisest thing to have done one week before London, but I would have hated to have missed this.
Peaks: Moelwyn Mawr (2525ft/770m), Moelwyn Bach (2329ft/710m), Moel yr Hydd (2126ft/648m)
Time/Position: 1:35:36 (23/116)
A hugely enjoyable day out on this classic mountain race: wonderfully varied with a nice community atmosphere. The weather was perfect, which always helps: sunny, clear, but reasonably cool. The route is logical and appealing. It provides a bit of everything: steep climbs, grassy descents, rocky terrain, bogs, quarries. Nicely runnable from the start in Blaenau Ffestiniog up the tracks above Tanygrisiau to the old quarries in Cwm Orthin: a unique landscape. Past Llyn Cwmorthin to a long, rather hot but largely runnable climb above Rhosydd quarry - emerging from the industrial landscape to great views over to Cnicht, Wyddfa, Nantlle. After a bog trot, the east ridge of Moelwyn Mawr is steep but enjoyable. Then comes the very steep descent down over the rocky subsidiary summit and ridge of Craigysgafn, followed by the steep but short climb up Moelwyn Bach. Another steep descent down a rocky groove leads to a very fast descent over bog and grass to Llyn Stwlan. Along the dam wall to a steep climb leading to a plateau and the final shortish climb up Moel yr Hydd (possibly only the second time I've been up this peak, although most of the rest of the route is quite familiar). I was feeling quite good at this stage, but was deliberately slow and tentative on the rocky descents (given that London is only a week away!). An exhilerating final descent down a side valley (I sank waist-deep into a bog during this!) back to the lake and route of ascent. I settled for my position and just jogged back to the finish, despite being just behind a largish group, trying to save some energy for the forthcoming marathon. Probably not the wisest thing to have done one week before London, but I would have hated to have missed this.
Friday, April 17, 2009
Pot Hole climbing, Ffrith run
Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: The Dog (HVS 5b), Ceba (E1 5b), Canine Meander (E2 5b), Ego (E3 5c), Id (E3 5c), Right Wall (E1 5c)
Another attempt to improve strength and endurance before our imminent Provence trip. As with the previous Pot Hole visit, Vic and I just worked our way along the crag for two hours of top-roping with mimimal rest. Started with the classic of the crag, done several times before, The Dog (HVS 5b). Always enjoyable, nice finger jams and small face holds lead to the juggy, easy upper crack. Followed this with the 'other classic', Ceba (E1 5b) - slightly tougher, but great finger pockets and a hardish crux over the little roof. Canine Meander (E2 5b) feels technically easier, very good gently sustained climbing but no real problems with the rope above: probably my favourite route here. Upped the standard considerably with Ego (E3 5c). I've never done this before, and it feels like possibly the hardest route on the crag. Nicely up sharp edges to a difficult crux to gain the break below the little roof. Just about made the move with a very long reach. We finished with Id (E3 5c) which was surprisingly straitforward (with rope above!). Excellent rough edging and small holds: a good climb. Right Wall (E1 5c) felt harder, possibly because I was tiring: tricky face moves to gain the easier crack. Lovely evening sunshine, felt good to be back on more technical routes. Jogged back to the car, just in time for the Famau run in beautiful weather. Given tomorrow's Moelwyn race, we ran up to Ffrith mountain, then around the forest roads to the normal descent. Probably the same distance as the normal route to the top: but a little less climbing!
Routes: The Dog (HVS 5b), Ceba (E1 5b), Canine Meander (E2 5b), Ego (E3 5c), Id (E3 5c), Right Wall (E1 5c)
Another attempt to improve strength and endurance before our imminent Provence trip. As with the previous Pot Hole visit, Vic and I just worked our way along the crag for two hours of top-roping with mimimal rest. Started with the classic of the crag, done several times before, The Dog (HVS 5b). Always enjoyable, nice finger jams and small face holds lead to the juggy, easy upper crack. Followed this with the 'other classic', Ceba (E1 5b) - slightly tougher, but great finger pockets and a hardish crux over the little roof. Canine Meander (E2 5b) feels technically easier, very good gently sustained climbing but no real problems with the rope above: probably my favourite route here. Upped the standard considerably with Ego (E3 5c). I've never done this before, and it feels like possibly the hardest route on the crag. Nicely up sharp edges to a difficult crux to gain the break below the little roof. Just about made the move with a very long reach. We finished with Id (E3 5c) which was surprisingly straitforward (with rope above!). Excellent rough edging and small holds: a good climb. Right Wall (E1 5c) felt harder, possibly because I was tiring: tricky face moves to gain the easier crack. Lovely evening sunshine, felt good to be back on more technical routes. Jogged back to the car, just in time for the Famau run in beautiful weather. Given tomorrow's Moelwyn race, we ran up to Ffrith mountain, then around the forest roads to the normal descent. Probably the same distance as the normal route to the top: but a little less climbing!
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Buckley 5k
An unofficial 5k pb last night on the course from Alltami to the edge of Northop Hall - 17:07. Felt quite good in ideal evening conditions, and was able to keep the pace up until the end, although I couldn't quite dip under 17 mins. This course is apparently accurately measured, although it is admittedly very fast with numerous downhill sections.
Monday, April 13, 2009
Llandegla MTB
Mountain bike route: Llandegla black run
Distance/climb:21k/400m
An enjoyable blast around the black run at Llandegla in the mist this morning. First bike outing for Rich and I for several months, and only the second time I've ever done the black route. It does add a surprising amount of extra riding to the normal red route and is considerably steeper and more interesting. Seemed to be some new sections on red and black runs. Rode the full route fairly comfortably in a little under two hours: the drop-offs seemed a lot less steep than last time, and the climbs are quite staggered if a bit slippy and awkward in places. Particularly enjoyed the deliciously smooth, flowing descents on the initial black section: the bike's poor suspension didn't spoil it for once.
Distance/climb:21k/400m
An enjoyable blast around the black run at Llandegla in the mist this morning. First bike outing for Rich and I for several months, and only the second time I've ever done the black route. It does add a surprising amount of extra riding to the normal red route and is considerably steeper and more interesting. Seemed to be some new sections on red and black runs. Rode the full route fairly comfortably in a little under two hours: the drop-offs seemed a lot less steep than last time, and the climbs are quite staggered if a bit slippy and awkward in places. Particularly enjoyed the deliciously smooth, flowing descents on the initial black section: the bike's poor suspension didn't spoil it for once.
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Dinas Cromlech climbs
Crag: Dinas Cromlech
Routes: Dives/Better Things (HS 4a,4b), Sabre Cut (VS 4c,4b)
A splendid few hours on two classic climbs in perfect spring weather yesterday. Probably 17 years or so since my last visit to Dinas Cromlech, so it was especially good to get back on two famous routes. The first pitch of Dives was nice and steady: up a surprisingly steep crack to good sharp holds, before a wet undercut traverse on unusual rock - below a black overhang with plenty of gear - led to the belay on the Forest. Vic then merged the easy middle pitch (the juggy crack on Spiral Stairs) with the surprisingly awkward groove. This is a fine pitch: steep and in an exceptional position, a mixture of relatively easy jamming and bridging. After an awkward descent, Vic then led both pitches of Sabre Cut. The first goes up the steep crack right of Dives, with one enjoyable hardish move up right to gain vegetated slabs and the Forest belay. The final corner crack is excellent - thought provoking and quite sustained but with good, often incut, holds and interesting solutions never far away.
Routes: Dives/Better Things (HS 4a,4b), Sabre Cut (VS 4c,4b)
A splendid few hours on two classic climbs in perfect spring weather yesterday. Probably 17 years or so since my last visit to Dinas Cromlech, so it was especially good to get back on two famous routes. The first pitch of Dives was nice and steady: up a surprisingly steep crack to good sharp holds, before a wet undercut traverse on unusual rock - below a black overhang with plenty of gear - led to the belay on the Forest. Vic then merged the easy middle pitch (the juggy crack on Spiral Stairs) with the surprisingly awkward groove. This is a fine pitch: steep and in an exceptional position, a mixture of relatively easy jamming and bridging. After an awkward descent, Vic then led both pitches of Sabre Cut. The first goes up the steep crack right of Dives, with one enjoyable hardish move up right to gain vegetated slabs and the Forest belay. The final corner crack is excellent - thought provoking and quite sustained but with good, often incut, holds and interesting solutions never far away.
Friday, April 10, 2009
Clwydian run
Ambitious plans for a tripartite day of mountain biking, rock climbing and fell running had to be abandoned due to the weather. So I took the opportunity for a final longish training run, back and forth along the leat for around 5 or 6 miles before joining the normal run up Moel Famau in improving conditions. Around 12-13 hilly miles in total, my final longish run before the Moelwyn race and London.
Thursday, April 09, 2009
Chester Spring 5 road race
Race: Chester Spring 5m
Time/Position: 29:28 (30/347)
I was inexplicably slow in my two previous runnings of this race, and wasn't very optimistic for this given that my long recent efforts at Edale and Rhayader were still in my legs. So I was quite pleased to at least put in a respectable performance, albeit 40 seconds or so slower than 'fresh legs' might have achieved. As is often the case for this race, a lovely sunny spring evening and a nice atmosphere. We'd had a family walk across Waun y Llyn in a gale earlier on, but it had dropped to a stiff breeze by evening. Followed up with a run up Hope Mountain in the mist this morning.
Time/Position: 29:28 (30/347)
I was inexplicably slow in my two previous runnings of this race, and wasn't very optimistic for this given that my long recent efforts at Edale and Rhayader were still in my legs. So I was quite pleased to at least put in a respectable performance, albeit 40 seconds or so slower than 'fresh legs' might have achieved. As is often the case for this race, a lovely sunny spring evening and a nice atmosphere. We'd had a family walk across Waun y Llyn in a gale earlier on, but it had dropped to a stiff breeze by evening. Followed up with a run up Hope Mountain in the mist this morning.
Tuesday, April 07, 2009
Holyhead Mountain
Crag: Holyhead Mountain
Routes: Wally's Folly (VD:led), Pigeon Hole Crack (S4a:sec), Primrose Hill Gutter (M:sol), Plimsole (D:led p.1), New Boots and Panties (S4a:led), Mrs Murdock (S4a:sec), Slab Direct (VD:led)
An enjoyable climbing session at a new venue for me. A very good crag too: with confidence-boosting, easy, well-protected climbs the order of the day. Unfortunately, although we missed the showers all day, a cold wind made life a little uncomfortable and tricky at times. Wally's Folly (VD) was a nice, steady start up a ramp, groove and crack towards the left of the crag. Pigeon Hole Crack (S4a), led by Alwyn, was a little better: slabby and enjoyable. Desperate to get out of the wind, we secreted ourselves in the fun, old-fashioned chimney of Plimsole (D). I led up big blocks and flakes to a mercifully windless niche. Then Alwyn led up the easy quartz crack to the top. New Boots and Panties (S4a) upped the grade a bit, and was a pleasing lead for me. Scrappily up to a pinnacle, then a gently sustained diagonal crack up the sharp, rough quartzite typical of this crag. Mrs Murdock (S4a) takes the corner crack to the right. Finished with a lead of the easy long pitch, Slab Direct (VD), to the right of the crag: a simple slab leads to an enjoyable slabby groove.
Routes: Wally's Folly (VD:led), Pigeon Hole Crack (S4a:sec), Primrose Hill Gutter (M:sol), Plimsole (D:led p.1), New Boots and Panties (S4a:led), Mrs Murdock (S4a:sec), Slab Direct (VD:led)
An enjoyable climbing session at a new venue for me. A very good crag too: with confidence-boosting, easy, well-protected climbs the order of the day. Unfortunately, although we missed the showers all day, a cold wind made life a little uncomfortable and tricky at times. Wally's Folly (VD) was a nice, steady start up a ramp, groove and crack towards the left of the crag. Pigeon Hole Crack (S4a), led by Alwyn, was a little better: slabby and enjoyable. Desperate to get out of the wind, we secreted ourselves in the fun, old-fashioned chimney of Plimsole (D). I led up big blocks and flakes to a mercifully windless niche. Then Alwyn led up the easy quartz crack to the top. New Boots and Panties (S4a) upped the grade a bit, and was a pleasing lead for me. Scrappily up to a pinnacle, then a gently sustained diagonal crack up the sharp, rough quartzite typical of this crag. Mrs Murdock (S4a) takes the corner crack to the right. Finished with a lead of the easy long pitch, Slab Direct (VD), to the right of the crag: a simple slab leads to an enjoyable slabby groove.
Friday, April 03, 2009
Rock and run
Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: Selva (VS4a), Selva Variant (VS4c), Cristallo (HS), Cristallo Variant (VS4c), Murren (HS), The Watzmann (VS4b), Tre-Ffynnon (VS4b), Un-aided (VS4b), Grizzly (VS4b), Vetta (HVS5a)
Tired after Edale and Rhayader, so a deliberately quiet week. I'd recovered somewhat by Tuesday, so enjoyed some bouldering on Hope Mountain followed by a brief jog. Ran across the Bryn Alyn hills yesterday, followed by more bouldering at Pot Hole, and followed this up this afternoon with a more extensive cragging trip. Vic and I just worked our way along the crag in warm sunny weather, trying to build up some strength for the forthcoming Provence cragging trip. Just top-roping, with minimal rest between climbs. Started up Selva (VS 4a), then the variant left (VS 4c), followed by the easy Cristallo (HS) and variant (VS 4c). Then the gentler crack line of Murren HS, followed by the relatively unscratched duo of The Watzmann (VS 4b) and Tre-Ffynnon (VS 4b). Couldn't remember doing these two before. Finished with three old favourites, all done many times before: Un-aided (VS 4b), Grizzly (VS 4c), Vetta (HVS 5a). Un-aided was one of my first ever climbs, 20 years ago: now very polished! Felt good to be back on steepish rock. After about 2.5 hours, we left for the run up Moel Famau in warm, hazy conditions. Always tiring to run after climbing, and this was no exception.
Routes: Selva (VS4a), Selva Variant (VS4c), Cristallo (HS), Cristallo Variant (VS4c), Murren (HS), The Watzmann (VS4b), Tre-Ffynnon (VS4b), Un-aided (VS4b), Grizzly (VS4b), Vetta (HVS5a)
Tired after Edale and Rhayader, so a deliberately quiet week. I'd recovered somewhat by Tuesday, so enjoyed some bouldering on Hope Mountain followed by a brief jog. Ran across the Bryn Alyn hills yesterday, followed by more bouldering at Pot Hole, and followed this up this afternoon with a more extensive cragging trip. Vic and I just worked our way along the crag in warm sunny weather, trying to build up some strength for the forthcoming Provence cragging trip. Just top-roping, with minimal rest between climbs. Started up Selva (VS 4a), then the variant left (VS 4c), followed by the easy Cristallo (HS) and variant (VS 4c). Then the gentler crack line of Murren HS, followed by the relatively unscratched duo of The Watzmann (VS 4b) and Tre-Ffynnon (VS 4b). Couldn't remember doing these two before. Finished with three old favourites, all done many times before: Un-aided (VS 4b), Grizzly (VS 4c), Vetta (HVS 5a). Un-aided was one of my first ever climbs, 20 years ago: now very polished! Felt good to be back on steepish rock. After about 2.5 hours, we left for the run up Moel Famau in warm, hazy conditions. Always tiring to run after climbing, and this was no exception.
Monday, March 30, 2009
Edale Skyline fell race
Race: Edale Skyline fell race (21m/4500ft)
Peaks: Ringing Roger, Win Hill, Lose Hill, Mam Tor, Lord's Seat, Brown Knoll, Grindslow Knoll
Time/Position: 3:37:46 (65/264)
A tremendous day out yesterday - perfect clear, sunny conditions for this classic race. Driving over Mam Nick in the morning sunshine with Vic, the challenge was brutally obvious. It's an irresistably compelling route taking a complete elongated loop of the ridges encircling the Edale valley. I had a reasonable race, starting deliberately slowly on the steep climb up to the rock garden of Ringing Roger. Then fairly easy running with perfect crystal clear views led to the top of Jagger's Clough and fast, grassy descent down to Crookstone Barn. Then came the delightfully gentle climb up Win Hill, entirely runnable. From the summit, though, the rest of the route looks frighteningly distant! A good descent down to Hope, still taking it easy, through the edge of the village to the steep climb up (through trees initially) to Lose Hill. This is probably the toughest climb of the race - but very scenic, now in the limestone of the White Peak (an intriguing contrast with the Dark Peak bogs and grit outcrops along the rest of the route). Walked a bit of this climb, then descended through trees to the easy-angled climb up paving slabs, past hundreds of tourists, to the top of Mam Tor. Feeling OK as I reached the cut-off at Mam Nick in 1:51. Then the race really starts, with a boggy haul over Lord's Seat - and very boggy trudge through the energy-sapping peat hags to Brown Knoll and Jacob's Ladder. Some of this terrain was familiar from a previous trip. My low point came shortly afterwards, for the long slog over the Grindslow Knoll across very awkward peaty terrain. I certainly felt the proximity of last week's Rhayader 20 mile race on this section! I perked up a bit for the rocky path along the edge of the escarpment back to Ringing Roger. Managed a decent final descent, passing at least five runners. A great event, made hard by the boggy terrain and the sheer length of the route - rather than the modest climbs and descents.
Peaks: Ringing Roger, Win Hill, Lose Hill, Mam Tor, Lord's Seat, Brown Knoll, Grindslow Knoll
Time/Position: 3:37:46 (65/264)
A tremendous day out yesterday - perfect clear, sunny conditions for this classic race. Driving over Mam Nick in the morning sunshine with Vic, the challenge was brutally obvious. It's an irresistably compelling route taking a complete elongated loop of the ridges encircling the Edale valley. I had a reasonable race, starting deliberately slowly on the steep climb up to the rock garden of Ringing Roger. Then fairly easy running with perfect crystal clear views led to the top of Jagger's Clough and fast, grassy descent down to Crookstone Barn. Then came the delightfully gentle climb up Win Hill, entirely runnable. From the summit, though, the rest of the route looks frighteningly distant! A good descent down to Hope, still taking it easy, through the edge of the village to the steep climb up (through trees initially) to Lose Hill. This is probably the toughest climb of the race - but very scenic, now in the limestone of the White Peak (an intriguing contrast with the Dark Peak bogs and grit outcrops along the rest of the route). Walked a bit of this climb, then descended through trees to the easy-angled climb up paving slabs, past hundreds of tourists, to the top of Mam Tor. Feeling OK as I reached the cut-off at Mam Nick in 1:51. Then the race really starts, with a boggy haul over Lord's Seat - and very boggy trudge through the energy-sapping peat hags to Brown Knoll and Jacob's Ladder. Some of this terrain was familiar from a previous trip. My low point came shortly afterwards, for the long slog over the Grindslow Knoll across very awkward peaty terrain. I certainly felt the proximity of last week's Rhayader 20 mile race on this section! I perked up a bit for the rocky path along the edge of the escarpment back to Ringing Roger. Managed a decent final descent, passing at least five runners. A great event, made hard by the boggy terrain and the sheer length of the route - rather than the modest climbs and descents.
Monday, March 23, 2009
Rhayader 'round the lakes' race
Race: Rhayader 'round the lakes' 20 mile
Time/position: 2:22:38 (33/376)
A beautiful spring day for my second consecutive running of this enjoyable race on the 21st. Rather like a fell race on tarmac, it's a nice challenging course in a remote, scenic area. Had no real intention of racing, given Edale's proximity, but did want to maintain a brisk pace throughout. The long (1000ft?) climb from Rhayader to the pass at Penrhiw Wen went quite well, slightly hazy but clear blue skies. Kept it comfortable and found myself in the top 30 as we began the exhilarating descent down to the lakes in a cool wind. Went through 10m in 1:12, enjoying the shade of the trees at this point. A negative split is not hard to achieve on this race, as the second half is merely undulating apart from the nasty hill at mile 19. Slowed dramatically on this, but just managed to keep things going through to the finish and a reasonable position. Recovered quite well, after a fairly good week of training (50 miles). Morgan did his first fell race next day, above Llanarmon yn Ial.
Time/position: 2:22:38 (33/376)
A beautiful spring day for my second consecutive running of this enjoyable race on the 21st. Rather like a fell race on tarmac, it's a nice challenging course in a remote, scenic area. Had no real intention of racing, given Edale's proximity, but did want to maintain a brisk pace throughout. The long (1000ft?) climb from Rhayader to the pass at Penrhiw Wen went quite well, slightly hazy but clear blue skies. Kept it comfortable and found myself in the top 30 as we began the exhilarating descent down to the lakes in a cool wind. Went through 10m in 1:12, enjoying the shade of the trees at this point. A negative split is not hard to achieve on this race, as the second half is merely undulating apart from the nasty hill at mile 19. Slowed dramatically on this, but just managed to keep things going through to the finish and a reasonable position. Recovered quite well, after a fairly good week of training (50 miles). Morgan did his first fell race next day, above Llanarmon yn Ial.
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Deeside border league
Race: Deeside 4.5m (border league round 6)
Time/Position: 26:10 (36/256)
Needed a decent outing at the penultimate BL race on Sunday, given the fact that the final fixture is a few days after London. Sadly, it was a very short course, and a pretty strong field, so I struggled slightly and remain in 11th place (despite being around 40 points better off than last year, when I finished 9th!). Went well up the steep Kelsterton hill after a circuit of Deeside College, but then inevitably lost places to faster runners on the descent back to the College and a final sprint around the running track. Jogged round the circuit again to warm down, to bring the weekly mileage up to 45m (after a run up Famau from Cadole on Friday night). Trying to push the mileage slightly now, and last night joined Jez for an excellent run up and around Hope Mountain - in springlike conditions as the sun set - via a really good new route from the church.
Time/Position: 26:10 (36/256)
Needed a decent outing at the penultimate BL race on Sunday, given the fact that the final fixture is a few days after London. Sadly, it was a very short course, and a pretty strong field, so I struggled slightly and remain in 11th place (despite being around 40 points better off than last year, when I finished 9th!). Went well up the steep Kelsterton hill after a circuit of Deeside College, but then inevitably lost places to faster runners on the descent back to the College and a final sprint around the running track. Jogged round the circuit again to warm down, to bring the weekly mileage up to 45m (after a run up Famau from Cadole on Friday night). Trying to push the mileage slightly now, and last night joined Jez for an excellent run up and around Hope Mountain - in springlike conditions as the sun set - via a really good new route from the church.
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Brenig/Alwen giant loop
An excellent hard training session yesterday, and a valuable long run in preparation for forthcoming events. Neil and I had been planning to do a double loop of both lakes for a while, and conditions were ideal yesterday: mild, overcast, light winds. We began with an exact copy of the Brenig race route, a comfortable largely off-road clockwise circuit, which we pleasingly completed in 65 mins. This was only 4 or 5 mins slower than my race time (2007?). We then continued up the hill, over the road and through the newly laid out forest path down to the Alwen dam. Still felt quite comfortable, and really enjoyed the path - new territory for me - out towards the wild NW end of the lake in the heart of Hiraethog. Over the bridge and a cruel climb up to a miniature windy ridge. Started to suffer slightly, but recovered to maintain the pace as the route gradually descends back to the dam. A hilly slog back along the track and road back to the Brenig car park. Exactly 2:30 for the round, perhaps a tad over 20 miles. Eased tired limbs with a lunchtime jog up to Frodsham crags today, a brief but good bouldering session - one route, along with some harder low-level traverses.
Monday, March 09, 2009
Dash in the dark, race 3
Race: Dash in the Dark, race 3 (4m/750ft)
Time/position: 28:20 (4/18)
Rather tired after a fairly tough training week, including a longish outing on Thursday from HK to Hope Mountain, Caergwrle and Caer Estyn, followed by a Friday night jog up Ffrith Mountain from Cadole - so I struggled a bit in the third and final Dash from the Llandegla MTB centre. Almost a minute down on my time in the first race. Went off quite fast in light rain, then slowed on the descents and slog round the lake (boggier than last time). Couldn't catch the third placed runner, so settled for my 4th position and virtually jogged in.
Time/position: 28:20 (4/18)
Rather tired after a fairly tough training week, including a longish outing on Thursday from HK to Hope Mountain, Caergwrle and Caer Estyn, followed by a Friday night jog up Ffrith Mountain from Cadole - so I struggled a bit in the third and final Dash from the Llandegla MTB centre. Almost a minute down on my time in the first race. Went off quite fast in light rain, then slowed on the descents and slog round the lake (boggier than last time). Couldn't catch the third placed runner, so settled for my 4th position and virtually jogged in.
Sunday, March 01, 2009
Anglesey runs
A very enjoyable weekend on Anglesey, with a nice hilly road running circuit today. From Beaumaris across to Llanddona, then very nice running on small coastal roads above the sea back to Llangoed and Beaumaris. A blend of sunshine and coastal mist.
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Long hybrid run
Beginning to panic mildly about the recent lack of long runs, so myself and Neil got a decent early morning 18 miler done. This was a repeat of a run I did for marathon preparation last year and is a really good work-out, all on minor roads but with a great deal of climbing: bit of a hybrid road/fell route. From HK over the shoulder of Waun y Llyn to Coed Talon, then a long, steep haul up to Treuddyn and Cae Hic. Then a superb descent, with the wind at our backs, down to Llanfynydd - some respite before the brutal final climb back to the summit of Waun y Llyn and trudge back to HK.
Monday, February 23, 2009
Capenhurst border league
Race: Capenhurst 5.5m (border league round 5)
Time/position: 32:05 (32/251)
A distinctly average race in the fifth round of the border league, 6 or 7 places down on the last two races. But, after the disaster in the Wrexham half last week, it was a relief just to feel OK during the race. I was nearly a minute quicker than the last time I raced this route (2006?). It's a fast, rural two-lap affair around the village. Rather breezy conditions: felt OK until the last few hundred metres, then lost a couple of places. This was last season's pattern, so it was a bit annoying for it to happen again. Buckley lengthened their lead at the top of division one: I'm currently 11th SM. A reasonable training week preceded this - with a decent intervals session, a run up Famau on Friday night, and a longish circuit on Thursday.
Time/position: 32:05 (32/251)
A distinctly average race in the fifth round of the border league, 6 or 7 places down on the last two races. But, after the disaster in the Wrexham half last week, it was a relief just to feel OK during the race. I was nearly a minute quicker than the last time I raced this route (2006?). It's a fast, rural two-lap affair around the village. Rather breezy conditions: felt OK until the last few hundred metres, then lost a couple of places. This was last season's pattern, so it was a bit annoying for it to happen again. Buckley lengthened their lead at the top of division one: I'm currently 11th SM. A reasonable training week preceded this - with a decent intervals session, a run up Famau on Friday night, and a longish circuit on Thursday.
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
Foel Goch winter climbs
Peaks: Foel Goch, Y Garn
Area: Glyderau, Eryri
Routes: Esgair Gully (wI/II), Easy Gully (wI)
The best winter conditions for 20 years in Snowdonia. Probably more relevant for the technical ice climbs, less so for easy snow gullies, but Alwyn and I had another splendid 'mountaineering' day nonetheless. Low cloud made it difficult to make an assessment of which routes were in, but took the gamble of heading up into a murky Cwm Bual, hoping that Esgair Gully had a decent covering (this is the route I'd descended most of last winter). The steep slog up was made rather depressing by falling sleet and melting snow, but on arrival at the cwm base our luck was clearly in. Esgair gully had decent cover, and huge blue ice crystals draped the walls. We headed up deep drifting snow into the lower section, which was good water ice. The rest of this very atmospheric gully was a tad marginal - some good snow ice, some wet moss, some splendid neve, but always simple. It twists round to the right, then up a short pitch to a narrow squeeze through a cleft before twisting again past some ice crystals to an easy finale, topping out at an alpine-style breche below Yr Esgair. A lovely easy snow gully with a great atmosphere. We then dropped into upper Cwm Coch (a first for me), a gently descending traverse on unconsolidated snow, rather more enjoyable than expected, to the base of Easy Gully. This really is a simple route up a very shallow gully, more a mountaineering access route than a climb. However, the snow was perfect: crusty and reassuring, to the extent that we probably should have chosen the better-defined Red Gully to its right. Quite hard physically, getting on for 150m of calf-busting ascent, to a broad col between Creigiau Gleision and the main face. Quite a fierce wind as we traversed above the cornices up Y Garn, very icy and hostile (no sign of the predicted sunshine). After a quick bite, we headed down Banana (NE) Ridge in a near white-out, excellent snow with a real Alpine feel. Then took a sporting descent down into Cwm Cywion, taking the shallow (wI) gully line next to Summit Gully. This gave a steepish but absorbing descent on good snow down to some perfect ice falls. We had a splendid time climbing these little pitches for an hour or so before descending snow and scree to the old road at Blaen y Nant. Heavy sleet and hail gave us a good soaking as we trudged back to the car.
Area: Glyderau, Eryri
Routes: Esgair Gully (wI/II), Easy Gully (wI)
The best winter conditions for 20 years in Snowdonia. Probably more relevant for the technical ice climbs, less so for easy snow gullies, but Alwyn and I had another splendid 'mountaineering' day nonetheless. Low cloud made it difficult to make an assessment of which routes were in, but took the gamble of heading up into a murky Cwm Bual, hoping that Esgair Gully had a decent covering (this is the route I'd descended most of last winter). The steep slog up was made rather depressing by falling sleet and melting snow, but on arrival at the cwm base our luck was clearly in. Esgair gully had decent cover, and huge blue ice crystals draped the walls. We headed up deep drifting snow into the lower section, which was good water ice. The rest of this very atmospheric gully was a tad marginal - some good snow ice, some wet moss, some splendid neve, but always simple. It twists round to the right, then up a short pitch to a narrow squeeze through a cleft before twisting again past some ice crystals to an easy finale, topping out at an alpine-style breche below Yr Esgair. A lovely easy snow gully with a great atmosphere. We then dropped into upper Cwm Coch (a first for me), a gently descending traverse on unconsolidated snow, rather more enjoyable than expected, to the base of Easy Gully. This really is a simple route up a very shallow gully, more a mountaineering access route than a climb. However, the snow was perfect: crusty and reassuring, to the extent that we probably should have chosen the better-defined Red Gully to its right. Quite hard physically, getting on for 150m of calf-busting ascent, to a broad col between Creigiau Gleision and the main face. Quite a fierce wind as we traversed above the cornices up Y Garn, very icy and hostile (no sign of the predicted sunshine). After a quick bite, we headed down Banana (NE) Ridge in a near white-out, excellent snow with a real Alpine feel. Then took a sporting descent down into Cwm Cywion, taking the shallow (wI) gully line next to Summit Gully. This gave a steepish but absorbing descent on good snow down to some perfect ice falls. We had a splendid time climbing these little pitches for an hour or so before descending snow and scree to the old road at Blaen y Nant. Heavy sleet and hail gave us a good soaking as we trudged back to the car.
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Hope-Pen Llan y Gwr
A wet night in HK, but guessed there must be snow higher up, so went for a superb early morning run from Hope up to Waun y Llyn under perfect blue skies. Then ran over Hope Mountain to the Ffrith bridleway and the long climb up Pen Llan y Gwr above Bwlchgwyn. As expected, this had a lot of fresh (and old) snow on it, and gave superb running. Ran up the gentle slopes via Pentre farm to the open hillside and the track through snow-draped trees and knee deep snow to the summit. Down on perfect virgin snow in bright sunshine and back over Waun y Llyn to Hope, complete with glissade down the 'sledging hill'. Felt almost Alpine in places today: deep virgin snow, warm sunshine, completely windless.
Monday, February 09, 2009
Frodsham bouldering
Rather tired after yesterday, but took the opportunity to jog up to Frodsham crags in the fading light. Sleet falling, and a dank feel to the crag, but it's so steep that precipitation hardly matters. After a few overhanging but juggy traverses, my feeble forearms protested and I finished off with a little more jogging across Woodhouse Hill by way of recovery from Long Mynd.
Sunday, February 08, 2009
Long Mynd valleys fell race
Race: Long Mynd Valleys fell race (11.5m/4500ft)
Peaks: Callow, Yearlet
Area: Long Mynd, Shropshire
Time/Position: 2:11:18 (28/185)
A splendid race in a new area for me. Conditions were wonderful today: quite deep snow throughout, superb sunshine for the first half of the race, with heavy snow and low cloud adding some drama to the already fairly dramatic finale. Started up a steep spur leading NE out of Carding Mill valley, then deep snow contouring the hillside before a fast descent down an obvious spur lead down to Long Batch and the side valley of Jonathan's Hollow. I'd started very conservatively, so began to pick up places as we climbed out of this little valley to gain the easy running round the plateau heading SW. Splendid views of snow covered peaks like Caer Caradoc under blue skies, with fast, flat exhilerating running before a superb descent - steep at first - down the beautiful Ashes Hollow. A steep climb led from checkpoint 2 up the hillside south to an awkward flat section with drifts then a very steep descent on ice and snow. I thought I'd ripped my right buttock to shreds as I indulged in a controlled fall down this face - but the wound wasn't too bad on later inspection. The route goes down Barrister's Batch and Callow Hollow before another very narrow, very steep valley. A lung-busting climb led out of this before the descent to Minton Batch. This is the section which gives the race its reputation - a relentless series of steep climbs and descents over a series of very pretty, but remarkably narrow valleys. I made a small navigational error at the bottom of this descent (a full glissade) but righted myself, without losing too many places, for the desperate climb up what I presume was Windy Batch. It started snowing quite heavily at this point, but I was feeling quite good for the climb up to the top of Callow, then the descent through drifts to a track over the side of Grindle to a final very steep climb up Yearlet where I met up with Jez. The weather really closed in at this point, and I lost the feeling in my feet for the long descent to the finish. Quite frustrating, as I had plenty in my legs, but numb stumps for feet doesn't lend much confidence. So I couldn't quite catch the group in front. Finished a long way down the field, but enjoyed the race throughout.
Peaks: Callow, Yearlet
Area: Long Mynd, Shropshire
Time/Position: 2:11:18 (28/185)
A splendid race in a new area for me. Conditions were wonderful today: quite deep snow throughout, superb sunshine for the first half of the race, with heavy snow and low cloud adding some drama to the already fairly dramatic finale. Started up a steep spur leading NE out of Carding Mill valley, then deep snow contouring the hillside before a fast descent down an obvious spur lead down to Long Batch and the side valley of Jonathan's Hollow. I'd started very conservatively, so began to pick up places as we climbed out of this little valley to gain the easy running round the plateau heading SW. Splendid views of snow covered peaks like Caer Caradoc under blue skies, with fast, flat exhilerating running before a superb descent - steep at first - down the beautiful Ashes Hollow. A steep climb led from checkpoint 2 up the hillside south to an awkward flat section with drifts then a very steep descent on ice and snow. I thought I'd ripped my right buttock to shreds as I indulged in a controlled fall down this face - but the wound wasn't too bad on later inspection. The route goes down Barrister's Batch and Callow Hollow before another very narrow, very steep valley. A lung-busting climb led out of this before the descent to Minton Batch. This is the section which gives the race its reputation - a relentless series of steep climbs and descents over a series of very pretty, but remarkably narrow valleys. I made a small navigational error at the bottom of this descent (a full glissade) but righted myself, without losing too many places, for the desperate climb up what I presume was Windy Batch. It started snowing quite heavily at this point, but I was feeling quite good for the climb up to the top of Callow, then the descent through drifts to a track over the side of Grindle to a final very steep climb up Yearlet where I met up with Jez. The weather really closed in at this point, and I lost the feeling in my feet for the long descent to the finish. Quite frustrating, as I had plenty in my legs, but numb stumps for feet doesn't lend much confidence. So I couldn't quite catch the group in front. Finished a long way down the field, but enjoyed the race throughout.
Friday, February 06, 2009
Famau run
After a snowy run round Buckley on Thursday, snow draped trees and lots falling, it was good to get out for the Famau run in excellent winter conditions this evening. Quite deep snow all the way, some late sunshine at first, starting to drift above Ffrith mountain with beautiful snow-laden trees higher up. A snow shower moved in as it got dark, before an atmospheric descent through a snowy landscape with headtorches.
Wednesday, February 04, 2009
Glyder Fach winter climbs
Peaks: Glyder Fach
Area: Glyderau, Eryri
Routes: Gribin gully (wI), False Gribin (wI), Gribin (wII)
A good spell of winter weather saw a decent dump of snow over NE Wales. Seemed considerably more localised over Snowdonia, but met Alwyn under superb blue skies and the prospect of a little more daylight. Snow level was down to the road, but conditions were very variable. Some cwms packed with a mixture of neve and unconsolidated snow, some with just soft new snow. Some ridges heavily rimed and in full condition, others stripped by the wind. We opted to slog up into Cwm Bochlwyd, and make a further assessment. The lake was iced up, although the snow was mainly unconsolidated as we approached the face. Central gully (II/III) looked to be in good condition and seemed a good choice, lots of little steps, not remotely serious. We roped up and I led most of the first pitch before sadly coming to the conclusion that it just wasn't in condition: just new snow over verglas. So I downclimbed awkwardly and we spied another option on the east face of the Gribin ridge. In these conditions, this is an excellent remote feeling face with loads of mild mountaineering options. We took a shallow, easy-angled wI gully on the right-hand side. Luckily, the snow here was perfect, in direct contrast to Central Gully, and led elegantly up to a narrowing and a little pitch to gain False Gribin (wI) just below the steeper part. More good snow led interestingly up to a long snowfield, excellent cramponing, and lunch in the sunshine (at last). The rest of the Gribin was splendid. Probably the 3rd time I've done it in winter conditions, but the fullest and best. Thick consolidated snow, iced rock, gave simple but absorbing mountaineering-style ascent up to a sunny ridge with beautiful windslab formations in the snow. Kept crampons on for the crossing of Glyder Fach and the steep descent down to Bwlch Tryfan. Iron hard snow throughout this section.
Area: Glyderau, Eryri
Routes: Gribin gully (wI), False Gribin (wI), Gribin (wII)
A good spell of winter weather saw a decent dump of snow over NE Wales. Seemed considerably more localised over Snowdonia, but met Alwyn under superb blue skies and the prospect of a little more daylight. Snow level was down to the road, but conditions were very variable. Some cwms packed with a mixture of neve and unconsolidated snow, some with just soft new snow. Some ridges heavily rimed and in full condition, others stripped by the wind. We opted to slog up into Cwm Bochlwyd, and make a further assessment. The lake was iced up, although the snow was mainly unconsolidated as we approached the face. Central gully (II/III) looked to be in good condition and seemed a good choice, lots of little steps, not remotely serious. We roped up and I led most of the first pitch before sadly coming to the conclusion that it just wasn't in condition: just new snow over verglas. So I downclimbed awkwardly and we spied another option on the east face of the Gribin ridge. In these conditions, this is an excellent remote feeling face with loads of mild mountaineering options. We took a shallow, easy-angled wI gully on the right-hand side. Luckily, the snow here was perfect, in direct contrast to Central Gully, and led elegantly up to a narrowing and a little pitch to gain False Gribin (wI) just below the steeper part. More good snow led interestingly up to a long snowfield, excellent cramponing, and lunch in the sunshine (at last). The rest of the Gribin was splendid. Probably the 3rd time I've done it in winter conditions, but the fullest and best. Thick consolidated snow, iced rock, gave simple but absorbing mountaineering-style ascent up to a sunny ridge with beautiful windslab formations in the snow. Kept crampons on for the crossing of Glyder Fach and the steep descent down to Bwlch Tryfan. Iron hard snow throughout this section.
Sunday, February 01, 2009
Carneddau run
Peaks: Pen y Castell
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
Lunch in Deganwy, so we headed over to the Carneddau first thing in the morning. Weather was not as clear as forecast, but was as bitterly cold as expected. Despite this, Eve still joined me - with rucsac - for the little hike up Pen y Gaer. Very cold, good wild views into the Carneddau. Old snow fields and low cloud. I then ran up Pen y Castell in 17 minutes via the track and steep final slopes. Descended SW to the valley and ran back to the car via a second trip up Pen y Gaer.
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
Lunch in Deganwy, so we headed over to the Carneddau first thing in the morning. Weather was not as clear as forecast, but was as bitterly cold as expected. Despite this, Eve still joined me - with rucsac - for the little hike up Pen y Gaer. Very cold, good wild views into the Carneddau. Old snow fields and low cloud. I then ran up Pen y Castell in 17 minutes via the track and steep final slopes. Descended SW to the valley and ran back to the car via a second trip up Pen y Gaer.
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Pandy rock climbs
Crag: Pandy Outcrop, Glyn Ceiriog
Routes: Emerald Point (VD:sec), Villeta (M:sol), Splitting the Difference (HS:sec), Banana Boat (S4a:sec)
A cold but dry day, with a little watery sunshine forecast, so made a brief trip to Pandy for a few climbs. It really is a delightful venue, peaceful and with wonderful views out over the Ceiriog. Just a shame it was rather too cold on the fingers today. Dale led Emerald Point (VD) to begin. An awful start over mossy boulders and muddy shelves leads to a pleasant upper slab and nice corner crack - a fairly lengthy route. A brief solo of the simply Villeta, before seconding the pleasant little slab taken by Splitting the Difference (HS). Like the classic Schmutzig to its right, this is characterised by positive little pockets and sharp edges. Good climb. Banana Boat was a brief finale, again led by Dale. A rather strange climb up a slabby groove before a steep but straitforward crux at the top over a mini roof.
Routes: Emerald Point (VD:sec), Villeta (M:sol), Splitting the Difference (HS:sec), Banana Boat (S4a:sec)
A cold but dry day, with a little watery sunshine forecast, so made a brief trip to Pandy for a few climbs. It really is a delightful venue, peaceful and with wonderful views out over the Ceiriog. Just a shame it was rather too cold on the fingers today. Dale led Emerald Point (VD) to begin. An awful start over mossy boulders and muddy shelves leads to a pleasant upper slab and nice corner crack - a fairly lengthy route. A brief solo of the simply Villeta, before seconding the pleasant little slab taken by Splitting the Difference (HS). Like the classic Schmutzig to its right, this is characterised by positive little pockets and sharp edges. Good climb. Banana Boat was a brief finale, again led by Dale. A rather strange climb up a slabby groove before a steep but straitforward crux at the top over a mini roof.
Friday, January 30, 2009
Clwydian run
A repeat of the longer run we did on 29th December this evening, most of it done in the dark this time. We left Cadole at 4.40ish, then along the leat to Pantymywn, up the paths to Cilcain and then up to Pedair Groesffordd. Weather was breezy, fairly cold and very murky - particularly atmospheric running in the half-light of a January dusk. Very muddy as darkness fell at the Arthur col. Then the steep haul up OD to the ridge and all the way to the top of Famau via Moel Llys y Coed and Moel Dywyll. Enjoyable and interesting: by now pitch black, with a chilly wind. Managed to keep it going to the top of Famau, then down to Penbarras and back to Cadole via the forest car park and normal route through Loggerheads. A pint or two was welcome reward for a tough outing.
Sunday, January 25, 2009
Dash in the dark
Race: Dash in the Dark race 1 (4m/750ft)
Time/Position: 27:36 (3rd from 30)
An enjoyable outing last night, racing in the first Dash in the Dark of the year from Llandegla. A nocturnal fell/trail race, and a great event. I took about two minutes off last year's time and had an interesting race. The winner took off immediately, to win by around two minutes. Another runner and I then found ourselves well ahead of fourth place, and so commenced a battle royale for the runners-up spot. He was pulling away on the descents down to the lake, which wasn't as boggy as last year, then I pushed the climbs (although probably not enough in retrospect). Basically kept with him for the entire route and we eventually finished neck and neck, as I rather annoyingly missed the opportunity for second place by literally one second! Still, a great race which filled a big gap in the 2009 race schedule. Intervals going quite well at the moment (3:19 pace and under), with a flat 16-miler on the 17th.
Time/Position: 27:36 (3rd from 30)
An enjoyable outing last night, racing in the first Dash in the Dark of the year from Llandegla. A nocturnal fell/trail race, and a great event. I took about two minutes off last year's time and had an interesting race. The winner took off immediately, to win by around two minutes. Another runner and I then found ourselves well ahead of fourth place, and so commenced a battle royale for the runners-up spot. He was pulling away on the descents down to the lake, which wasn't as boggy as last year, then I pushed the climbs (although probably not enough in retrospect). Basically kept with him for the entire route and we eventually finished neck and neck, as I rather annoyingly missed the opportunity for second place by literally one second! Still, a great race which filled a big gap in the 2009 race schedule. Intervals going quite well at the moment (3:19 pace and under), with a flat 16-miler on the 17th.
Monday, January 12, 2009
Four village loop
Trying to increase the training a bit, now some of the early targets for 2009 are booked in: Long Mynd, Edale Skyline, London, and a few possible big 'rounds'. On Saturday, the last day of cold weather, we did a hybrid fell/road/trail run from Cadole over Maeshafn and up the 'beast' to Bryn Alyn and down to Eryrys. Then over to Graianrhyd and back via Nercwys Mountain and Moel Findeg, using the tracks from the 4 villages mountain bike route. Around 2 hrs, although probably not all that far. Windy and rather muddy for a change.
Monday, January 05, 2009
Caernarfon Border League
Race: Caernarfon 10k (Border League round 4)
Time/Position: 37:20 (26/236)
Managed to stay consistent at the fourth border league fixture in Caernarfon yesterday, one down on Mold in 26th place. Went off fairly quickly over the first flat 4k along the Menai Straits in cold, drizzly conditions. Got into a small group, then managed to make up a small amount of ground during the hilly final half of the race and kept the pace up at the finish. Probably the most interesting of the BL routes, particularly nice to finish by the castle. On the Saturday, a family walk up Moel Findeg in superb weather with views of Snowdon and Arening. And a good run up Moel Famau on Friday evening: the sun setting over the Arans as we arrived at the icy summit.
Time/Position: 37:20 (26/236)
Managed to stay consistent at the fourth border league fixture in Caernarfon yesterday, one down on Mold in 26th place. Went off fairly quickly over the first flat 4k along the Menai Straits in cold, drizzly conditions. Got into a small group, then managed to make up a small amount of ground during the hilly final half of the race and kept the pace up at the finish. Probably the most interesting of the BL routes, particularly nice to finish by the castle. On the Saturday, a family walk up Moel Findeg in superb weather with views of Snowdon and Arening. And a good run up Moel Famau on Friday evening: the sun setting over the Arans as we arrived at the icy summit.
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
Clwydian run
A good longer outing in the Clwydians yesterday, the final significant outing of the year: still enjoying the excellent spell of stable, cold weather. Started from Cadole with Neil, running along the leat all the way to the Pantymwyn road. Then along the paths to the centre of Cilcain, up the lanes to Pedair Groesffordd and up to the Arthur col. Then the full Famau ridge along OD via Moel Llys y Coed and Moel Dywyll to a very cold summit, with significant wind chill. Down to Penbarras, then the forest car park, and back to Cadole via the normal path to Loggerheads. Went for a family walk to Aber Falls today, with intervals in the evening: yet more perfect cold and clear weather. So a good year draws to a close. Hard to pinpoint the highlights, but the Laugavegur has to be at the top, followed by the Capelet traverse, sub-3 at Edinburgh and the other PBs, some good, varied climbing, the Rab MM and the two classic long Welsh fell races.
Sunday, December 28, 2008
Arenig Fawr
Peaks: Arenig Fawr (2802ft/854m), Arenig Fawr south
Area: Arenig, Eryri
The superb spell of anti-cyclonic weather continues, with cloud to the east but all the Welsh peaks crisp and clear. Far too cold for rock climbing, all the snow gone, so it had to be a hill-walk. Ambled up to Llyn Arenig Fawr with Rich and Neil, then the enjoyable ridge to Y Castell and great views of a hoar-frosted mountain framed against a deep blue sky. The summit ridge was desperately cold, a bitter east wind cutting into us and rendering lunch a trial of endurance. Fantastic crystal clear views to Wyddfa, Rhinog, Moelwyn, Cader. Finger-length frost crystals coated the fence as we jogged up to the south peak before gratefully ducking out of the wind towards Nant y Pysgod and the long valley track north to the road. Jogged back to the car. Always a lovely traverse, made particularly good by today's weather and a couple of pints in Bala.
Area: Arenig, Eryri
The superb spell of anti-cyclonic weather continues, with cloud to the east but all the Welsh peaks crisp and clear. Far too cold for rock climbing, all the snow gone, so it had to be a hill-walk. Ambled up to Llyn Arenig Fawr with Rich and Neil, then the enjoyable ridge to Y Castell and great views of a hoar-frosted mountain framed against a deep blue sky. The summit ridge was desperately cold, a bitter east wind cutting into us and rendering lunch a trial of endurance. Fantastic crystal clear views to Wyddfa, Rhinog, Moelwyn, Cader. Finger-length frost crystals coated the fence as we jogged up to the south peak before gratefully ducking out of the wind towards Nant y Pysgod and the long valley track north to the road. Jogged back to the car. Always a lovely traverse, made particularly good by today's weather and a couple of pints in Bala.
Saturday, December 27, 2008
Rosey Nosey fell race
Race: Rosey Nosey fell race (3.75m/600ft)
Time/position: 27.10 (4/13)
My 35th and final race of the year today. A very enjoyable and friendly festive outing from Graianrhyd, leaving the pub south along the bridleway to Llyn Cyfynwy, down south to the road then along the tracks (and very awkward, completely trackless deep heather) to the mast on the little 'summit'. Then back via the lakeside and icy paths. Managed a very predictable 4th place, couldn't quite stick with the pace of Neil and Jez. Another nice addition from Martin, with enjoyable after-race drinks at the pub.
Time/position: 27.10 (4/13)
My 35th and final race of the year today. A very enjoyable and friendly festive outing from Graianrhyd, leaving the pub south along the bridleway to Llyn Cyfynwy, down south to the road then along the tracks (and very awkward, completely trackless deep heather) to the mast on the little 'summit'. Then back via the lakeside and icy paths. Managed a very predictable 4th place, couldn't quite stick with the pace of Neil and Jez. Another nice addition from Martin, with enjoyable after-race drinks at the pub.
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
Hope Mountain run
A good-paced run up Hope Mountain from HK today, conscious that I'm not going to do much over the next few days! A few runs in London last weekend, and a run up Moel Famau on Friday to complement the long Llangollen run. Rather mild and dull in the hills today.
Thursday, December 18, 2008
The 'horseshoe horseshoe'
Peaks: Cyrn y Brain, Moel y Faen, Moel y Gamelin
Decided to extend last week's Llangollen-Ponderosa run this morning, with a significant extension along the Gamelin ridge. Left the town with Neil in mild, breezy conditions, to gradually climb up to the OD path below Dinbren. Then the fantastic contouring running below the Eglwyseg crags to World's End. Feeling slightly tired after yesterday's climbing, but we set a fair pace across the heather to the boggy summit of Cyrn y Brain with the wind picking up and ominous black clouds threatening. Down quickly to Ponderosa in 90 mins from town, then the steep double climb up to the summits of Moel y Faen and finally Moel y Gamelin. These climbs are tough enough from the top of the pass, but even worse after running from Llangollen! Took a 2 minute break on Gamelin with the entire route visible. Descended steeply into the wind to the col, then great running SE down the Conquering Hero bridleway to Rhewl. A final off-road sting in the tail led to Llandynan then down a narrow hillside path to Llantysilio farm and the excellent riverside path back to Llangollen (2:40?). Hard to imagine a better running loop than this in NE Wales, would make a great race.
Decided to extend last week's Llangollen-Ponderosa run this morning, with a significant extension along the Gamelin ridge. Left the town with Neil in mild, breezy conditions, to gradually climb up to the OD path below Dinbren. Then the fantastic contouring running below the Eglwyseg crags to World's End. Feeling slightly tired after yesterday's climbing, but we set a fair pace across the heather to the boggy summit of Cyrn y Brain with the wind picking up and ominous black clouds threatening. Down quickly to Ponderosa in 90 mins from town, then the steep double climb up to the summits of Moel y Faen and finally Moel y Gamelin. These climbs are tough enough from the top of the pass, but even worse after running from Llangollen! Took a 2 minute break on Gamelin with the entire route visible. Descended steeply into the wind to the col, then great running SE down the Conquering Hero bridleway to Rhewl. A final off-road sting in the tail led to Llandynan then down a narrow hillside path to Llantysilio farm and the excellent riverside path back to Llangollen (2:40?). Hard to imagine a better running loop than this in NE Wales, would make a great race.
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
North Buttress, Tryfan
Peaks: Tryfan
Routes: North Buttress (D) Led p.1,2,3,4
The sustained period of high pressure and decent winter climbing conditions ended just as my leave kicked in. Rather annoying, but a nice forecast meant a possibility of rock climbing with Alwyn. In the event, the weather was not ideal: snow patches, low cloud and a strengthening westerly wind. So took the bold decision to go for a long route on the east face, in an attempt to stay out of the wind and retain some feeling in our hands. I think North Buttress was among the first multi-pitch climbs I ever did, 17 years ago almost to the day. It's a nice easy route, ideal in these rather marginal conditions. I led off up the first groove, which was wet except for the holds on the edge of the groove. Didn't waste much time as my hands were losing all feeling, but enjoyed the big holds and unique Tryfan atmosphere. A steep rib above the groove leads interestingly to the stance. Also led the second pitch up a crack in the next groove, followed by a traverse left to a higher rib. The third pitch was soaking wet, but easy. We then scrambled up to Terrace Wall on wet snow and old neve. Far too cold and snowy to continue, obvious risk of verglas, so continued up North Gully. This was a tad awkward, in trainers on old frozen snow patches, but also satisfying. The summit was windy and verglassed, so we retreated down the south ridge and back along the terrace. Agonising hot flushes as the blood returned to my fingers.
Routes: North Buttress (D) Led p.1,2,3,4
The sustained period of high pressure and decent winter climbing conditions ended just as my leave kicked in. Rather annoying, but a nice forecast meant a possibility of rock climbing with Alwyn. In the event, the weather was not ideal: snow patches, low cloud and a strengthening westerly wind. So took the bold decision to go for a long route on the east face, in an attempt to stay out of the wind and retain some feeling in our hands. I think North Buttress was among the first multi-pitch climbs I ever did, 17 years ago almost to the day. It's a nice easy route, ideal in these rather marginal conditions. I led off up the first groove, which was wet except for the holds on the edge of the groove. Didn't waste much time as my hands were losing all feeling, but enjoyed the big holds and unique Tryfan atmosphere. A steep rib above the groove leads interestingly to the stance. Also led the second pitch up a crack in the next groove, followed by a traverse left to a higher rib. The third pitch was soaking wet, but easy. We then scrambled up to Terrace Wall on wet snow and old neve. Far too cold and snowy to continue, obvious risk of verglas, so continued up North Gully. This was a tad awkward, in trainers on old frozen snow patches, but also satisfying. The summit was windy and verglassed, so we retreated down the south ridge and back along the terrace. Agonising hot flushes as the blood returned to my fingers.
Monday, December 15, 2008
Border League, Mold
Race: Mold 5m (Border League round 3)
Time/position: 29:04 (25th/248)
Semi-paralysed by a ludicrously stiff neck and upper back, but strangely came away from the usual hilly 5m circuit around Nercwys with my highest ever Border League finish. Felt much better than on the 10k last week, perhaps because the hilly course suited me better. Went for it up to Nercwys, then tried to hang on and pick up as many places as I could on the 'descent'. These tactics worked quite well: an encouraging outing. A pint in Grianrhyd was a nice way to warm-down. Ran up Famau in freezing mist on Friday morning, but otherwise a low mileage week affected by a mild cold.
Time/position: 29:04 (25th/248)
Semi-paralysed by a ludicrously stiff neck and upper back, but strangely came away from the usual hilly 5m circuit around Nercwys with my highest ever Border League finish. Felt much better than on the 10k last week, perhaps because the hilly course suited me better. Went for it up to Nercwys, then tried to hang on and pick up as many places as I could on the 'descent'. These tactics worked quite well: an encouraging outing. A pint in Grianrhyd was a nice way to warm-down. Ran up Famau in freezing mist on Friday morning, but otherwise a low mileage week affected by a mild cold.
Thursday, December 11, 2008
Llangollen run
Peaks: Cyrn y Brain
More crisp, cold weather, so it seemed an obvious choice to head to Llangollen and run up through the woods to the OD path below the Eglwyseg crags (as with the long Llangollen-HK epic Dave and I did during Iceland preparation last June). We enjoyed the superb contouring path below Craig Arthur in low winter sunshine. Rather icy as we approached World's End, but superbly clear. Since we were both recovering from colds, taking it easy, it seemed sensible to follow OD up to the edge of Llandegla forest, then follow the broad path (some snow, lots of ice) along the fence to the top of Cyrn y Brain - and great views to Arenig, Rhinogau, Shropshire. A cold descent in low winter sun, then thawed out in the Ponderosa (90 mins). An obvious extension would be to take in Gamelin, then descend back to town.
More crisp, cold weather, so it seemed an obvious choice to head to Llangollen and run up through the woods to the OD path below the Eglwyseg crags (as with the long Llangollen-HK epic Dave and I did during Iceland preparation last June). We enjoyed the superb contouring path below Craig Arthur in low winter sunshine. Rather icy as we approached World's End, but superbly clear. Since we were both recovering from colds, taking it easy, it seemed sensible to follow OD up to the edge of Llandegla forest, then follow the broad path (some snow, lots of ice) along the fence to the top of Cyrn y Brain - and great views to Arenig, Rhinogau, Shropshire. A cold descent in low winter sun, then thawed out in the Ponderosa (90 mins). An obvious extension would be to take in Gamelin, then descend back to town.
Monday, December 08, 2008
Helena Tipping 10k
Race: Helena Tipping 10k, Wrexham
Time/Position: 36:46 (19th/269)
Managed a 10k pb by the skin of my teeth at the Helena Tipping 10k in Wrexham yesterday. Shaved 7 seconds off the time set in Mold last year, to at least give the satisfaction of setting pbs at marathon, half and 10k during 2008 (this was my first 10k of 2008!). Rather disappointed not to have gone quicker, though. Very similar to last year's conditions: very cold, although sunny and quite icy this year, which unsurprisingly caused problems - particularly on the notorious fifth mile, which seems far longer than the rest. Went through 3 miles in 17 mins dead, on for a good time (exactly as last year), then slowed considerably to mile 5 before picking it up for a reasonable finish to dip inside my pb. We ran up Moel Famau on Friday night in an unfavourable combination of conditions: dark, misty, windy, snow/slush/ice...
Time/Position: 36:46 (19th/269)
Managed a 10k pb by the skin of my teeth at the Helena Tipping 10k in Wrexham yesterday. Shaved 7 seconds off the time set in Mold last year, to at least give the satisfaction of setting pbs at marathon, half and 10k during 2008 (this was my first 10k of 2008!). Rather disappointed not to have gone quicker, though. Very similar to last year's conditions: very cold, although sunny and quite icy this year, which unsurprisingly caused problems - particularly on the notorious fifth mile, which seems far longer than the rest. Went through 3 miles in 17 mins dead, on for a good time (exactly as last year), then slowed considerably to mile 5 before picking it up for a reasonable finish to dip inside my pb. We ran up Moel Famau on Friday night in an unfavourable combination of conditions: dark, misty, windy, snow/slush/ice...
Saturday, November 29, 2008
Cloud inversion
A classic cloud inversion this morning. A very heavy frost in HK, ice-draped trees and frozen fields. Left the village in thick fog, with Neil, and ran up to Shordley where it gradually cleared to give a perfectly clear run up to the top of Waun y Llyn with blue skies above and a dense blanket of cloud below. Then ran along the ridge path and back to foggy, frozen HK in about 1:35. Took M and E up to the top later the same day. On Friday, tested my new Petzl by running half way up Famau in the dark. On the 22nd, we did another good lengthy run from the Collie to Cilcain, Dywyll, Famau (for the 32nd time this year?) and down via the fireroads.
Sunday, November 16, 2008
Penmaenmawr fell race
Race: Penmaenmawr fell race (11m/1500ft)
Time/position: 1:28:53 (23rd/220)
The curtain closed, in terms of major events at least, on an interesting year yesterday at Penmaenmawr. One of my favourite races, it's an elegant and satisfying route: a sort of 'tour de Tal y Fan' which loops the little mountain. Rather heavy conditions underfoot, particularly for the boggy section, but not much wind. In many ways, it's not really a true fell race, so I was a bit too conservative on the first gradual climb to the road. It's crucial to retain some strength for the long bog-trot beyond the bwlch. I try to treat this section as a 'peak', and managed to keep the pace up fairly well through the water and (occasional) thigh-deep marsh. Started to push it rather too late, after the quarry checkpoint, and managed to pick up three places on the long descent, partly by using the steep short-cuts plunging through the bracken (about nine minutes from CP3 to finish?). Soup and beer with Neil and Vic in the Dwygyfylchi rounded off an enjoyable day.
Time/position: 1:28:53 (23rd/220)
The curtain closed, in terms of major events at least, on an interesting year yesterday at Penmaenmawr. One of my favourite races, it's an elegant and satisfying route: a sort of 'tour de Tal y Fan' which loops the little mountain. Rather heavy conditions underfoot, particularly for the boggy section, but not much wind. In many ways, it's not really a true fell race, so I was a bit too conservative on the first gradual climb to the road. It's crucial to retain some strength for the long bog-trot beyond the bwlch. I try to treat this section as a 'peak', and managed to keep the pace up fairly well through the water and (occasional) thigh-deep marsh. Started to push it rather too late, after the quarry checkpoint, and managed to pick up three places on the long descent, partly by using the steep short-cuts plunging through the bracken (about nine minutes from CP3 to finish?). Soup and beer with Neil and Vic in the Dwygyfylchi rounded off an enjoyable day.
Monday, November 10, 2008
Border League, Hoylake
Race: Hoylake 9.6k (Border League round 2)
Time/position: 35:58 (41/294)
Blustery and wet conditions for the second round of this year's Border League yesterday at Hoylake. Another average performance for me. A fast first three miles with the wind at our backs, out to Leasowe lighthouse, then a real struggle back into the wind. I was going quite well, picking up places, but kept getting exposed before a large group offered the chance of shelter! A schoolboy tactical error saw me start my sprint finish too early - passed by 4 or 5 just before the finish as a large group of runners finished within a few seconds of each other. Felt rather tired after Thursday's run, and another long one on Friday up Famau from the Collie via Cilcain and Dywyll.
Time/position: 35:58 (41/294)
Blustery and wet conditions for the second round of this year's Border League yesterday at Hoylake. Another average performance for me. A fast first three miles with the wind at our backs, out to Leasowe lighthouse, then a real struggle back into the wind. I was going quite well, picking up places, but kept getting exposed before a large group offered the chance of shelter! A schoolboy tactical error saw me start my sprint finish too early - passed by 4 or 5 just before the finish as a large group of runners finished within a few seconds of each other. Felt rather tired after Thursday's run, and another long one on Friday up Famau from the Collie via Cilcain and Dywyll.
Thursday, November 06, 2008
Bodfari-Prestatyn OD run
An interesting and enjoyable run along Offa's Dyke from Bodfari to the sea at Prestatyn earlier today. Left Bodfari with Neil in misty, dank conditions. Slightly hungover, so the steep haul up the side of Moel y Gaer was unwelcome, to say the least. I'd done most of the route before, but it still takes you by surprise with its constant climbs and switchbacks: quite hard work over Cefn Du and Moel Maenefa to the A55. Through Rhuallt to the long climb over Mynydd y Cwm to Marian Ffrith. The final section, over Prestatyn hillside is also really enjoyable: shame it was so misty. A peculiar finish, covered in mud, through the shoppers on Prestatyn high street all the way to the beach (2:15 in total).
Monday, November 03, 2008
Clwydian hills fell race
Race: Clwydian Hills (10m/3100ft)
Time/Position: 1:25:11 (8th/89)
An encouraging performance in yesterday's race, which I've always felt to be the toughest local (NE Wales) fell race: constant steep climbs and fast descents with no real respite throughout the course. It really makes the most of the range! Conditions yesterday were challenging, a combination of snow, slush and deep mud making life tricky in places. I wasn't too far off the pace for once, a definite improvement. Kept it going quite well over the initial long climb up Moel Dywyll, then a fast descent down to the Vale side, before the brutal long climb back onto the ridge. Picked a good line through the heather to Nant y Ne and managed to climb the dreaded gully (wading through waist-deep snow at the top) reasonably quickly, before a good fast descent, with more drifts in places, allowed me to continue to pick up a few places before an unwelcome sprint finish in which I just about kept my 8th place. My third time up Moel Famau in as many days. Ran up with Neil on Friday night. It was virtually dark as we reached the top under glowering cloud, but thick snow drifts (in places) helped with the visibility, if not the running. Then had a family walk up from Penbarras in the slush with Rich and Mel on the Saturday.
Time/Position: 1:25:11 (8th/89)
An encouraging performance in yesterday's race, which I've always felt to be the toughest local (NE Wales) fell race: constant steep climbs and fast descents with no real respite throughout the course. It really makes the most of the range! Conditions yesterday were challenging, a combination of snow, slush and deep mud making life tricky in places. I wasn't too far off the pace for once, a definite improvement. Kept it going quite well over the initial long climb up Moel Dywyll, then a fast descent down to the Vale side, before the brutal long climb back onto the ridge. Picked a good line through the heather to Nant y Ne and managed to climb the dreaded gully (wading through waist-deep snow at the top) reasonably quickly, before a good fast descent, with more drifts in places, allowed me to continue to pick up a few places before an unwelcome sprint finish in which I just about kept my 8th place. My third time up Moel Famau in as many days. Ran up with Neil on Friday night. It was virtually dark as we reached the top under glowering cloud, but thick snow drifts (in places) helped with the visibility, if not the running. Then had a family walk up from Penbarras in the slush with Rich and Mel on the Saturday.
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