Grand Ballon ride

Way back in 2011 I did Alpe d'Huez in torrential rain and have never forgotten the experience, virtually hypothermic by the time I got back down. This was similar, albeit not as bad because I packed more sensibly. I camped a little way up the climb itself above Uffoltz, and there was a big thunderstorm in the early evening. I felt it was unlikely that I'd be able to do it the next day, but when I woke there seemed to be an early weather window - and since I was in position before 7am I went for it. It's a fairly big climb which the Tour is taking in two weeks time. Relatively kind gradients initially, as the wooded slopes weave up to a gentle section at the Hartmannswillerkopf, sight of a major WWI battle. Then comes a descent to the Col Amic, a tad annoying, and the weather was beginning to look threatening. Big views open out in all directions, with black clouds gathering to the south. There was no time to waste but the climb gets steeper after the col and even has a couple of cobbled sections. All good though, like a mini-Ventoux in a way, such a notable and isolated mountain. I got to the summit just as the rain started and by the time I'd descended back to the Col Amic it was torrential. I obviously had to climb back out of the other side and quickly became soaked, rendering the rest pretty unpleasant - in these conditions you'll get cold whatever you do, and I was shivering by the time I got back to the van.

Rainkopf

Peaks: Rothenbachkopf, Rainkopf

Area: Vosges, France

After lunch and that enormous cheese intake, I had some spare energy so did these two hills directly from the car park. All quite gentle, watching shower clouds track across the landscape and enjoying the views down the Fecht valley towards Mittlach. A contouring path led in a line above the Route des Cretes to a col between the two hills - after which I went up the Rothenbachkopf for big views and then stuck to the broad ridge path over the Rainkopf back to the car. 

Vosges TdF cols

The first biggish ride of the trip, somewhat strangely starting from the top of the Col de la Schlucht. There was a good reason for this, as it was the perfect place for an overnight van camp in cooler temperatures, and it allowed me to start out along the famous Route des Cretes, a superb wartime road along the spine of the Vosges hills. This gave an easy start in perfect weather, blue skies, warm but not hot. Fabulous views to the hills I did yesterday like the Hohneck, and then down to the lakes and valleys below. It was undulating but relaxing until I took the side road to the Col de Breitfirst. This is followed by the Col de Platzerwassel. All of these names reflect the fascinating Alsace blend of two cultures, and the riding, atmosphere and scenery were all superb as I started the descent. This was steep and hairpinned but I went reasonably well by my abysmal descending standards, and really enjoyed it. It eases off towards a series of villages like Sondenach and Metzeral and then enters lovely Munster where I'd been the afternoon before. The long final climb back to the Col de la Schlucht, the main business of the day really, starts in town and heads gently to Stosswihr before the long series of hairpins up the col. This was great training, never too hard at a steady 6%, but quite long with around 750m elevation gain. The road is a little busy but my early start helped and I quite enjoyed it. I added a little bit to the end, on the high road to Lac Blanc but was still conscious of not overdoing it (especially with rain and thunder forecast) so kept it to a 65k/1234m day and retired for lunch to the stupendous Auberge Firsstart near the Hohneck where I had roigabrageldi and an incredible local cheese platter with a glass of Edelzwicker.

Hohneck via Sentier des Roches

Peaks: Petit Hohneck, Hohneck, Haute de Falimont

Area: Vosges, France

The brutal heatwave dissipated with thunderstorms overnight and it was cooler and drizzly as I left the motel and had breakfast at a nearby patisserie to avoid Strasbourg's rush hour. My target was the Col de la Schlucht but this was a surprisingly long drive through lots of pretty Alsatian villages. The col was a great place, with dozens of cycling and mountain options open to me, all very tempting. My basic concept this trip was to alternate bike outings with foot outings, so embarked on the locally famous Sentier des Roches from Schlucht. This was great, a bit like a poor man's Via Ferrata! It takes a narrow and almost level footpath below the escarpment and is a little exposed in a few places. It was continually interesting, weaving between rock towers and taking little rock walls via some ironmongery. It eventually gives way to more open ground at a surprisingly impressive open cwm containing the Hundmissbach stream, the Martinswand crag, and a little hut (cash only). The route then climbs quite steeply to a col and the Schaeferthal. Then came open moorland to the top of the Petit Hohneck, like a British moorland top, and views down the big valley leading to Munster (La Fecht?). Then came a further loop, nicely runnable, to a welcome spring and then a further climb up to the Hohneck, the area's principle summit (which is actually driveable). A further trot then led to the lip of the cwm I'd been below earlier, and a good view of what i took to be the Martinswand crags. A final trot down through the woods led back to the col and refuelling on the full Alsatian, tomme au poivre, salad alsacienne, kassler fume with spatzle and a dark licorne beer.  

Hohenbaden ride

After a hellish night in Trier, record breaking heat making sleep impossible, this was a heavily compromised day on the edge of the Black Forest. My original plans were far more ambitious but I contented myself with my first return to Baden Baden since 1992, climbing from the town up to Hohenbaden Castle (original home of the margraves of Baden) which felt like useful Alpine training in the heat. After returning to town I pedalled along the tranquil Lichtental for a while before returning to the car in Oos and driving towards a merciful aircon motel room north of Strasbourg, refuelling in Alsatian style on tarte flambee with munster cheese.

Three countries ride/Vaalserberg

A unique and fascinating ride from Aachen taking in three countries as well as the Netherlands highpoint at the Vaalserberg. A great way to start the big trip, albeit compromised by the heatwave which meant I had to cut it short without properly engaging with the Dutch Limburg climbs which feature in the Amstel Gold spring classic. After the parkrun, I moved the van to the university and then cycled along to Vaals and the Dutch border. The climb up the Vaalserberg starts in town, through some steep streets to wooded hairpins and nice gentle climbing up to the famous three countries stone marking the border between Belgium, Germany and the Netherlands. I couldn't help reflecting that I would soon be on much bigger climbs, like the Galibier! After the stone, the route dropped into Belgium - I assume Wallonia although some of the names were Flemish. They were about to play a world cup match so there were lots of flags and football shirts, in fact Gemmenich was probably the most patriotic Belgian town I've ever seen! After some gentle riding I passed north then east into the Netherlands and ended up on the Camerlig, which it turns out is considered the hardest climb in the country. It was now maximum temperature, close to 40c, so this was hard work and I was glad just to cycle down to Aachen after less than 40k, conscious of not burning too many energy matches at the start of the trip. The temperatures finally rose to 41.5c breaking the all-time German record.

Lousberg parkrun

'Race': Lousberg parkrun (Aachen)

Time/Position: 21.19 (4th from 41)

After two hours of post-ferry van sleep in a Belgian service station, and with temperatures already above 30c, a rather tricky route was probably the last thing I needed! It was the first part of my 24 day continental van trip, however, and as such an essential part of the plan. Almost all the neighbouring parkruns (including Tapijn, the one I planned to do) had been cancelled due to the extreme heatwave but this one is a shaded loop around the forested hill above Aachen so went ahead. It reminded me a little of Wepre with two hilly laps, a long drag initially through the trees before a narrow, rooty descent. One of my slowest ever parkrun times but excusable in the circumstances!

Cwm Cneifion scrambles

Peaks: Glyder Fach

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

All sorts of heat warnings are currently in place and it was indeed very hot and humid as I skirted Idwal in glorious, surprisingly clear conditions. I took the second path up the steep slopes towards the classic hanging valley of Cneifion. This eventually contours right towards Suicide Wall and therefore means that it included the wet top section of East Wall Gully, some nice scrambling. It didn't feel desperately hot but I was sweating like a pig emerging into the cwm, always a great place to be. A short amble led below the Cneifion Arete to the very obscure line of Pinnacle Crest. This is really just a collection of ribs on the side of the gully, but I really enjoyed it, probably a reflection of my current activity rather than intrinsic quality. It is always escapeable, and a little loose, but the sharp ribs are pleasing and rise to a more impressive top section. This gives way to a surprise, a tiny col with some really impressive rock architecture framing the view to Pen yr Ole Wen. The onward route is not obvious, but the side wall on the right actually gives a bit more easy scrambling up to join the Gribin for its scrambly top section. I was exhausted, for whatever reason, and dehydrated despite the fact that it was clouding over. I ploughed across the Glyder plateau and then down the screes to Bwlch Tryfan. I had expected this day to break my personal Eryri heat record but I'm pretty sure I've been on the tops in even warmer weather in the past.

Chester parkrun

'Race': Chester parkrun

Time/position: 20.03 (7th from 414)

The start of another heatwave and an open day at the university so I took the opportunity to do Chester for the first time in a while. It is the parkrun I've done most, but not since I turned 55. As a result I was surprised to see a variation on the old summer course, heading upwards towards the hospital before starting the two laps. It was pretty hot already and I couldn't hold any kind of pace (first age-graded though). Last night I had done another edition of John Morris's Green Man mystery tour with Huw from Bwlch Penbarras. We seemed to make better route choices than I did last year and had covered less than 5k by the time we found the Green Man!