Glen Derry Round (part 1)

Peaks: Derry Cairngorm, Beinn Mheadhoin

Area: Cairngorms

If the weather had been favourable for this trip, I would have headed north-west to the Fisherfield Forest for some of the remoter Munros. But being in the Cairngorms is a treat in itself and I still had unfinished business. Beinn Mheadhoin in particular is one of the remoter Scottish mountains so I decided to take a leisurely approach and really immerse myself in the heart of the range. As a result, there was no rush this morning: I fuelled up with a full breakfast from the Bothy in Braemar before buying very austere provisions for the trip. My basic plan was the Glen Derry round, which I would have been able to do quite easily in a day, but I thought I would relax instead and have a short stay at the Hutchison Memorial bothy (I had my tent too). Just before midday, after coffee and an extra feed at the Linn of Dee, I set off for Derry Lodge by bike. I did the same two years ago and the scenery here is really beautiful. As ever, the great attraction of the Cairngorms is that its highlights are all hidden from view, you have to make an effort to get to them and that precludes too many people from spoiling it all. In addition, I love the contrast between the Arctic peaks and the gentle lower valleys which are probably closer to the natural biome than most other parts of the UK. Derry Lodge is a great example, all remnants of the Caledonian pine forest. I left my bike and then enjoyed the lovely path through the pines which leads to, again, the closest thing to a natural treeline in the UK, with some montane forest and dwarf trees above. The weather was lovely, blue sky with intermittent cloud, but bigger banks west and north as per the forecast. Above the treeline the path got steep for a while as it rounds the spur Carn Crom but this gives way to beautiful pink granite plateaux and then a contouring path with Derry Caingorm a pleasant cone ahead. Soon the route takes on its high Cairngorm character as it crosses various blasted tundra boulder fields and Ben Macdui and Cairn Toul become visible. A really enjoyable ascent, with a big boulder field leading to the summit. Tremendous views over Glen Luibeg to the high Cairngorms, lots of snow under blue skies. After this the day got even better with a contouring path over to the shoulder below Creagan a'Choire Etchachan and then to the lip of Coire Etchachan itself, an Arctic scene and the real heart of the Cairngorms. This microenvironment at the centre of the range is really precious, and does feel much closer to northern Norway than other parts of Scotland. Loch Etchachan glistened in the sunshine, framed by snowfields and crags, but (after a glissade down a big snowfield) it was far too windy to pitch my tent there so I stowed it for the short slog up Beinn Mheadhoin. This was almost as easy and enjoyable as Derry Cairngorm, through the same pink granite boulderfields and up to the wind blasted plateau at the top, reminiscent of Ben Avon with its granite tors. The SW top has stunning views down to the top of Loch Avon where multiple torrents clatter down between big crags from the Ben Macdui plateau: undoubtedly one of the finest places in the British mountains, and another Arctic scene. The top involves a little scramble up the tor which I had to myself (although there were a few people about on this Bank Holiday Monday). I retraced my steps back to the Etchachan outflow to collect my stuff and then ambled down the rocky path into tight Coire Etchachan, where the tiny Hutchison bothy came into view on a patch of greenery. Behind, the crag which houses some classic rock climbs. I took ownership of one of the two 'beds' in the bothy although it really is tiny. I managed a quick bath in the stream that comes down from Derry Cairngorm and passed a pleasant solo bothy evening with my austere dining options (no stove).

Glen Ey peaks

Peaks: Beinn Iutharn Mhor, Carn Bhac

Area: Mounth, Scotland

A complex weather forecast meant that a lot of thought had to go into my plans for today. I drove over the top road from Pitlochry and slept near the Spittal of Glenshee, but even the Cairngorms looked a bit questionable this morning with black threatening clouds. I was a bit tired too, so eventually settled on these peaks just to the south of the Cairngorms proper, because they offer a relaxed cycling approach and the weather looked distinctly better a little to the south. It proved an excellent choice and, after driving to Inverey some sunshine was already peeking through as I set off on the gravel bike for Glen Ey. This was an absolute delight and a perfect way to stretch the legs after yesterday's exertions. The track up the glen is mostly gentle and leads south above the Ey Burn into the wonderfully open Glen Ey. There was something wonderful about the way the valley curves gently south-east then south-west revealing new scenery. The spur of Creag an Lochain dominates the view but then a hidden upper valley with views up to Iutharn Mhor is revealed, the Ey Burn incredibly placid and gently flowing in the flat valley bottom with a base of soft green moss and breeding oystercatchers. After over 9k of lovely riding, I reached the ruin of Altanour and left my bike to work out the route and the landscape. It looked like I could climb directly up the east ridge of Beinn Iutharn Mhor and to my surprise that turned out to be the case, a narrow path was mostly navigable and led to the steep ridge/nose. This was hard work initially but led to a windy plateau, after which a long haul led out to the curving ridge of the dominant peak, which is more shapely and impressive than the rest of the Mounth. Beinn a'Ghlo impressed to the south and a giant snowfield lent definition to the northern cwm. I recognised other peaks, like Glas Tulaichean, from previous visits although the Cairngorms proper remained gloomy under dark clouds. After a snack I retraced steps above the snowpatch and then descended very steep scree towards Carn Bhac. I must have gone too low here, as it soon became tough going through tussocks and bog, completely pathless until I eventually gained the main route to Carn Bhac. This is a rather dull peak, just the highpoint of a long lateral ridge with lots of white rock on the summit. I didn't hang around and jogged the long but easy and very enjoyable descent down the ridge above Alltan Odhar. The sun came out towards the bottom and it finally became much warmer. By the time I regained the bike it was, for a short while, almost hot - and as the sun lit the valley and multiple chattering streams it was beautiful. I rested a while on soft grass above the Ey Burn at Altanour just taking it all in before getting on my bike for a tremendously enjoyable ride back to Inverey, gently descending the whole way. After bathing in the Dee I parked up at the layby outside Braemar that I'd used exactly two years ago: stunning views across the valley to Derry Cairngorm and Beinn a'Bhuird.

Glen Lyon quadruple

Peaks: Carn Gorm, Meall Garbh, Carn Mairg, Meall na Aighean

Area: Glen Lyon, Perthshire

There are still plenty of corners of Scotland that I've never been to, and Glen Lyon is one, despite its accessibility. It is beautiful, perhaps more reminiscent of Nant Gwynant or parts of the Lakes than the Highlands: small farms, woodland and pastoral, quite gentle scenery. On one side rises Ben Lawers (which I did from the Loch Tay side a few years ago), but on the other is this perfect circular ridge which rises to four Munros. After the parkrun, I had some sandwiches in the pretty Sma' Glen during the drive north to Aberfeldy, then wound my way round to Invervar in the middle of Glen Lyon. It was late morning at the start of the Bank Holiday weekend, and I couldn't park, so had to find another place which ended up being 2k further east. This made a long outing even longer, and it was quite a long initial haul from the village along the Invervar burn to take a broad ridge up Carn Gorm. The weather was threatening, a bit dark and gloomy, and the most notable feature was the sharp subpeak of An Sgorr rising above the Allt na Lairige. A final sharp rise led to a cold Carn Gorm with great views over Glen Lyon to Ben Lawers. The ridge then turns north and east and felt like the Carneddau. It is broad but quite well defined, with big (though very grey and compromised) views down to Loch Rannoch and over to Schiehallion, always such a notable feature of the landscape. Meall Garbh wasn't an overly impressive summit, but it was all quite pleasant. A very windy subpeak gave even better. views north and it remained cold all the way across to the rockier and more interesting peak of Carn Mairg, clearly the dominant mountain of the group. Really quite cold (as Kate baked in 30c at home!) and I finally found a water source below the very steep initial descent. I had a break and snack here, which was good as I was beginning to wilt a little (and perhaps even mildly regret the morning parkrun). A broad col and luckily not too much reascent to gain a big snowpatch and then the final Munro of Meall na Aighean, which is set back a bit from the main ridgeline. A wonderful descent freshened me up and was hugely enjoyable down a vague southwest ridge high above the Coire a'Chearcaill. Beautiful views to Lawers and Glen Lyon, which was pretty as a picture from these slopes with dramatic shades of grey in the sky. I couldn't complain too much, however, as all four peaks were below the cloudbase and it was a great (dry!) circuit. But at 22k and almost 1500m of elevation, it was a big 4 hour+ outing after a 19 minute parkrun in the morning. Still, four Munros and a V55 age group course record in the same day still seems worth recording. I replaced the calories with fish and chips in Aberfeldy then tried to work out the best plan of action given the 'mixed' weather forecast.

Crieff parkrun

'Race': Lady Mary's Walk parkrun (Crieff)

Time/Position: 19.41 (3rd from 141)

This delightful parkrun has only been going a few weeks, so the V55 course record I set wasn't very impressive. That said, the first few runners were either sent the wrong way, or didn't listen to the instructions (!) which meant we covered a bit more ground than we needed to on the route, which makes two return laps along the sun-dappled banks of the River Earn. It was really pleasant, but we turned too early without a marshall so had to make up the course length, and this even included a stop and brief conversation with the race organiser! Perhaps not the wisest decision with a four Munro circuit planned in the afternoon, but on the other hand it's nice I can still do that a few days before my 56th birthday!

Ben Chonzie

Peaks: Ben Chonzie

Area: Perthshire, Scotland

This area seems to my outsiders eyes to be a classic transition zone, the edge of the Highlands. It wasn't much more than a five hour drive to Crieff, which I last visited 15 years ago when the OMM took place in the more obscure corners of this range. Myself and Huw had a great weekend then, and a top 20 finish if memory serves (2nd vet team) but our route choices avoided the summit of Chonzie. Today, this was just an easy aperitif for my second Highlands trip of the year, anticipating being forced 'east' due to fronts hitting the north-west (and a heatwave elsewhere in the UK). I drove up Glen Turret to the loch, where I parked before setting off on the gravel bike along its banks. This track needs a mountain bike really, so it was hard work in places, not helped by glowering skies and drizzle. I left the bike above Lochan Uaine, which is fringed by steeper slopes giving this cwm more of a Highland character. It is an easy plod west to a breach in the headwall, wet and slimy in places. It is all very easy, and led to a misty col before the route kinks southwest and leads quite smoothly to the summit. A little drizzle and no views, so I trotted down intent on saving as much energy as possible. Above the col, the mist cleared a bit and I did get some views to Glen Almond and points west, which was definitely where the action took place on that 2011 OMM (in fact the overnight camp was in Glen Almond). The ride back along the track was a little easier and the weather did begin the clear a little. After gourmet pasta at the van, I strolled around birdwatching which - incredibly - yielded a white-tailed eagle. No point moving on at this stage, so I spent the night at Loch Turret, sleeping for nearly 10 peaceful hours!

Craig Nant Dulas

Crag: Craig Nant Dulas

Routes: Mr Drab (f5b:led), Ten not Twelve (f5c:sec), The Free Speech Union (f5c:led), What's On (f6a:sec), Master of Disguise (f5b:led)

Not exactly Provence, but a newly bolted microcrag nestled in the valley opposite Craig y Forwyn. It is a very nice sheltered situation, and did give a couple of pleasant little routes. I led the obvious main corner at a mild and very short VS. Peter then led the route to its right which had one tricky pull over a bulge. I then enjoyed the 5c up a right facing corner, although that might reflect the fact that I haven't done much climbing in recent years, rather than any inherent qualities! Moderately steep moves on some lovely holds, quite sharp by local limestone standards. It then continues for a little while up the wall, and you just have to imagine it going on for a bit longer. The 6a to its right was also good with some steep but positive wall climbing, and these two seemed the best routes on the crag at first glance. The slanting leftwards corner left of 'Mr Drab' may have been an f4 as it was no more than S.

Berwyn loop

Peaks: Cadair Berwyn, Cadair Bronwen

Area: Berwyn

Although this was just the standard ten mile loop of the Berwyn ridge, something I have done many times from Llandrillo, today we did it anticlockwise which I think I only remember doing when this route was a one-off race many years ago. It was cloudy and cool as we set off and took the lane up to the farmhouse then through the woods to eventually contour the hills well above Clochnant. Eventually the stream has to be crossed and then comes the steep and boggy climb over the subpeak to emerge right at the trig on Cadair Berwyn (north top). This is a long haul over awkward terrain, although it was a bit less boggy than usual today. As is often the case these days, I slowed where it got steep and couldn't match the pace of Jez. At a blustery summit, we then enjoyed the usual superb run along the ridge, hugging the eastern cwms, and then carried on to the top of Bronwen. From here, a superb descent (again a slightly different variant on the usual route) all the way down to the steep track back to Llandrillo. About 1.55 for the round, which is pretty similar to the average clockwise running of this route.

Erddig parkrun

'Race': Erddig parkrun

Time/Position: 19.46 (6th from 286)

On my two previous runnings of this lovely course, I seem to remember a lot of mud. Conditions were perfect today, which meant I got within a few seconds of my course pb despite going off a bit too fast. The muscle memory is to blame, and I was a lot quicker on the out-and-back section than previously, then maintained a decent pace through the Erddig grounds to the lovely gently descending running through the woods at the far end. At least a minute slower than the V55 course record, although I was pleased enough with the performance given current training.