Pico do Papagaio

Peaks: Pico do Papagaio (982m)

Area: Ilha Grande, Brazil

After three days in Rio, I headed off to Ilha Grande, still in Rio state but an immense contrast with the chaotic metropolis (Brazilian states are enormous). The entire Costa Verde on the adjacent mainland is beautiful and mountainous, and this theme continues on the island (half an hour by speedboat from the little coastal town of Conceicao do Jacarei). Arrival is into the small settlement of Vila do Abraao, the liveliest place on the island but still a tranquil spot, as there are no metalled roads or cars anywhere on Ilha Grande. The journey took some time (at least four hours) so I spent yesterday relaxing and was raring to go first thing in the morning, and it was a stunning start weatherwise, deep blue sky and a light breeze. A long switchbacking track for around a mile leads to the start of the narrow trail through the rainforest (perhaps not strictly defined, but the closest realistic description). This was a fairly extraordinary experience, mildly intimidating at first as I had no idea how well travelled the route was initially. For all I knew it may have been rarely ascended. Lots of birdsong, although most species remained elusive at first. The forest was very dense and the humidity quickly became stifling, in fact almost unbearably so where the trail steepened - which was often. A gorgeous little stream valley, chattering clear water, provided some relief. After about 40 minutes of effort, a runner descended past me, instantly setting my mind at ease about the route's popularity. That said, there was no way I could have even considered anything more than fast walking in this humidity. Above, I could see sunshine dappling the trees and after an awkward bouldery traverse the route kinked and it was clear I was on a broad ridge - even though the forest was so dense I still had no views at all. The humidity dropped noticeably at this point, a blessed relief, although it remained hot. I began to sense the summit was near and eventually spied a giant anvil-like rock feature that marks the true summit and gives the peak its name ('parrot'). At this precise point the route becomes unclear for the first time. I took the side path initially (which in retrospect was the correct one) before having second thoughts and taking a very steep direct route up to a clean granite slab and, finally, views out across the sea and over to the mainland. In the humidity, all was shimmering, the peaks of what I assume is the Serra d'Agua suspended above a soft-focused Atlantic. Unbroken pristine forest in every direction. I climbed the slab up to a wall, and then retreated. I later found this was just a few metres away from the circuitous, indirect route taken by the standard path I had missed. A far more comfortable descent, past a friendly nine-banded armadillo and a possible grey-cowled wood rail. A breeze made life a little more comfortable and the crystal blue sky later clouded over for my afternoon birdwatching ramble, 5k through the forest towards Palmas, returning at the col after seeing coati and numerous new bird species including various tanagers, woodcreepers, and a probable (stupendous) black hawk-eagle. Refuelled with a caipirinha and moqueca fish stew.

Pedra da Gavea

Peaks: Pedra da Gavea (844m)

Area: Tijuca National Park, Brazil

Supposedly one of the world's highest mountains rising 'directly from the ocean' but I fear that is a bit of local parochialism (it would even be challenged by certain Skye peaks). Whatever, it gave a superb outing at the start of my Brazilian trip, and also a truly memorable view from the summit. It is nowhere near as internationally famous as the Sugarloaf or Corvovado (Christ the Reedemer) but it is much higher than both, and looks very impressive from the famous beach of Ipanema, the first place I went to on arrival in Rio. Pedra da Gavea is right out in the southern suburbs of Rio, bordering the national park of Tijuca, pristine forest and one of the world's largest 'urban' national parks. I adapted to the excellent Rio metro immediately, and took it to its endpoint at the Jardim Oceanico. From here, a brisk 2k along the road and across the Muzema (I think) river lead to houses in the district of Joa and a steep climb which led to an initial checkpoint. Above, steep Flemish style cobbles led up to a more formal checkpoint, which was just opening as I arrived at 8am, a huge stroke of luck. Another world is immediately entered, a thick forest canopy with breadfruit hanging from the trees and brown capuchins in the trees. Above, a small party of coatis broke cover and moved quickly into the undergrowth. In the canopy, numerous bird species although as ever tropical birding is a rather frustrating experience. It was superb, and the sun broke through the canopy as I climbed. I overtook some early starters although a runner passed me too (I was going at a brisk walking pace, not really running). It was humid but not unbearable. The route continues steeply to reach an awkward slab and then a sort of rocky stream gully with running water. It eventually emerges at a clearing (the Mirante da Lage) with a view of the gigantic monolithic peak marking the main western summit directly above. The route then opens out slightly and the angle eases as the path curves eastwards towards the sea and below the giant rock walls. Then a plinth gave an outstanding view landward to Tijuca, pristine forest and a wonderful landscape. A little higher, and an even better view, with the terminating rock wall framing a dramatic view down to Rio as the mist cleared below. I could see right across to the distant Corcovado with Christ the Redeemer emerging from the tendrils of mist. At the end of this section I finally reached the locally notorious Carrasquierra, a 40 metre slab. This has a crack running down its length but is more broken on the right, where I took it. I was surprised by the fact that two or three moves were genuinely tricky, perhaps grade 3 scrambling in British terms although not particularly exposed despite the fact that the Atlantic Ocean stretched out to infinity below. Open cracks and polished holds, all very reminiscent of Tryfan Bach! Mist was flirting around as the angle eased at the top, but behind a staggering view down through the clouds to the little peninsula of Guaratiba and the town of Vargem Grande (perhaps). The path narrows and continues on a slightly exposed traverse line through thick vegetation above the ocean. After the traverse it climbs again steeply through ancient tree routes up an open gully with more easy scrambling to finally gain the plateau-like summit, characterised by low vegetation. The little green bushes (bromeliads?) on black sand strongly recalled the Canary Islands, far away across the Atlantic! I went up to the sharp rock at the eastern summit, then gently down to the open plinth that most people take photos from. This is a truly staggering spot, poised directly above Sao Conrado beach and the peak of Morro dos Irmaos (looking tiny from above) which guards the end of Ipanema, which I could also see. Ahead, the vast Atlantic, and just inland and over the ridge the endless sprawl of Rio across all of its hills, truly the Cidade Maravilhosa. I was a little concerned about descending the Carrasquierra with crowds coming up, so headed back down. It was fine, with one small group of five coming up. The rest of the descent was simple and I took it nice and easy, saving energy. I took a slightly different route back across to Muzema and back to the metro, where I refuelled with guaravita and a palm heart and chicken empadinha.

Waun Oer-Maesglase ridge

Peaks: Mynydd Ceiswyn, Waun Oer, Cribin Fawr, Craig Portas, Maesglase, Moel Cwm yr Eglwys

Area: Maesglase, Eryri

Classic bank holiday crowd avoidance strategy, always very satisfying. This was particularly the case today in bracing sunshine on Easter Saturday, as I started from the busy car park above Tal y Llyn after dropping my gravel bike off in Dinas Mawddwy. It is years since I have been up on this ridge, almost certainly 1994 en route to Rheidol where I was working at the time. It is obscure, but as a point-to-point it gives a brilliant outing of around 14k. You start high, but tussocks and bog make the going awkward until gaining the path below Ceiswyn. This is a minor summit with great views over Cader. Then the going becomes delightful, not too boggy on a defined little path over to Waun Oer, marked by a large cairn with great views over Rhinog and Aran. I saw a lone walker here, the only person I encountered all day despite the hordes elsewhere in Eryri. A very steep descent and short climb leads up Cribin Fawr after which I think I was breaking new ground, remarkably enough. I certainly have no memory of the rest of the ridge, including Maesglase. It was all excellent, especially the cwms and ridge leading to Maesglase, and from the dominant peak I took the very steep descent down to the minor summit and continuation ridge that leads all the way down to the road and then Dinas Mawddwy. A drink and crisps in the cafe, then it was all the way back to the car on the bike. If anything this was harder than the ridge, as my gravel bike is far too heavy for climbs like Bwlch yr Oerdrws, which leads back to the Cross Foxes. The next climb up Tal y Llyn wasn't much fun either, really hard going, painfully slow, and unpleasantly busy roads too.

Bala parkrun

'Race': Bala parkrun

Time/Position: 18.43 (2nd from 103)

In the spirit of the fallow year, almost exactly a minute down on last September's time, which was a narrow age group course record. Those records have now been erased, of course, but I intended today to be a mild session in advance of a run in the hills on what was a nice, clear Easter Saturday. It was pleasant enough into a gentle headwind and I kept a respectable pace ticking over.

Northern Carneddau

Peaks: Drosgl, Bera Mawr, Yr Aryg, Foel Fras, Llwytmor

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

The instinct is always to go clockwise around the northern Carneddau, but today I reversed it, partly because of a ferocious south-westerly. It went reasonably well but I was very tired, and the wind very strong. From the A55 I headed up towards Moel Wnion, intending to climb to the high traverse path thereby avoiding the unpleasant gorge that drops down from the Drosgl-Wnion col. Annoyingly, I didn't go high enough so had to negotiate the gorge anyway! So lots of wasted effort before I even got to the slog up Drosgl via the ancient Llwybr yr Aryg. The going gets easier here, with a short climb over Bera Mawr and Yr Aryg before I took an unwise shortcut towards Foel Fras: never a good idea. The wind raked the summit, knocking me over, and led to a pretty unpleasant haul across to Llwytmor, where it remained ferocious. I found an old shelter on Llwytmor Bach, which gave temporary respite, before a very steep, very direct descent down to the conifers back to Aber.

Berwyn loop

Peaks: Cadair Bronwen, Cadair Berwyn

Area: Berwyn

You don't go to the Berwyn in winter expecting dry feet, but I tried a few little variants on my standard 10 mile Berwyn route today in a futile attempt to minimise the bog. From Llandrillo I took the familiar steep road and tracks towards Moel Ty Uchaf. Here the sun came out, illuminating the stone circle. I took a steady approach in the spirit of the fallow year, basically fast walking. Higher up, instead of the direct route up Cadair Bronwen, I took the main bridleway contouring (and descending) above a side valley until a short climb gains Bwlch Maen Gwynedd. From here, I ascended the route I normally descend, up to Bronwen's summit (less than five minutes from the bwlch, running most of the way). The rest of the ridge was predictably boggy, hard work all the way to the trig on Cadair Berwyn. Great views, nice and clear now - the best day for a while. Because of all the recent rain, the descent was even boggier than normal - and it is normally very boggy indeed! So much so that I took a different route back to Llandrillo, lovely tracks (dry throughout) which emerged at Cadwst Fawr farmhouse in Cwm Pennant. Then along the Ceidiog back to Llandrillo.

Hoylake BL

Race: Hoylake 7.5k (Borders League race 6)

Time/Position: 27.44 (53rd from 363 [2nd V50])

The final fixture marking a memorable league 'grand slam' (or triple crown?) season, with Buckley winning the overall team championship plus the veteran's league, and me winning the V50 category. There were several other factors today: Hoylake was where I ran my first ever border league race in 2006. And I also maintained my record of counting for the team overall in every fixture. Also, I think this was my 90th ever borders race, so getting quite close to the century. It is only my third season category win though, following the V45 prize in 15-16, and the V50 prize in 21-22. Having said all that, this was not a great race for me, certainly the least enjoyable of the season. I went off too fast, unusual for me, then really struggled on the incoming leg despite just a mild crosswind blowing along this exposed section of prom. From the lifeboat station, this new route headed east along the prom before taking the inland gravel path up to Leasowe lighthouse, reversing the summer seaside 5k route temporarily. Then it was back to the prom for the long run-in: the wind was light, but as I was tiring it was enough to really slow the pace from 3.25 to 3.45. I was passed by at 8-10 on this section, which was a shame on the last race of the season.

Eilio CW

Peaks: Foel Goch, Foel Gron, Moel Eilio

Area: Moel Eilio, Eryri

Various circumstances dictated a quickish 90 minute outing this morning. So I opted to run the Eilio ridge clockwise from Padarn, removing some of the silly extra bits from the Maesgwm Muddle race (which I ran in 2017). I jogged through town before turning off for the YHA and repeating our bike climb from Thursday, all the way up the gravel to the bwlch at the top of Maesgwm. Considerably easier on foot than on wheels! Unlike Thursday, almost no wind and high cloud, with mist just covering the top of Eilio. I kept a steady pace going up the valley, where the Muddle race descends from its unpleasant side-trip to Cynghorion! After a brief stop at the col, I slogged up to Foel Goch - a repeat of last Thursday - then the always enjoyable trip along the ridge via Foel Gron to a misty Moel Eilio. It is considerably harder this way round, but then comes the superb 10 minute descent to Bwlch y Groes. After this, I ignored the Muddle extension to Cefn Du, instead taking the logical Snowdonia Marathon descent down the track and tarmac to Llanberis in just under 10 minutes: 20 minutes from Eilio to town. A little hobble down to Electric Mountain then alongside Padarn back to the free parking.