Peak/Crag: Conwy Mountain Slab
Routes: Far Right Crack (VD:sol), Oaklands (S 4a:sol), Central Groove (D:sol), Left Slab Crack (MS:sol), Far Left Crack (VD:sol), Left corner (VD:sol), Central Arete (D:sol)
Keen to try out a new pair of running shoes after returning from our morning in Betws, so I jogged from the house up the normal route up Mynydd y Dref/Conwy Mountain in more warm sunshine. I stopped at the slab to do all seven of the natural 'lines' that mark this easy venue. You can climb almost anywhere at VDiff, although there is a tiny technical move at the top of Oaklands on the right of the slab. The best route is the obvious thin crack in the left-hand slab, which gives delightful gentle climbing at around Mild Severe. Just lovely in the hot sunshine, savouring the crisp moves and the warm rock. After this short climbing session, I continued running to the top of the hill, slowing a little after yesterday's race and this morning's short but intense outing. From here I ran back down the main path taken by the half marathon route (4 Aug) to a remarkable little wall of igneous rock that I've never noticed before. This (welded tuff) was a little like the chicken heads of Riglos, and I played around on it before running back to the house.
Thursday, August 22, 2013
Clogwyn Cyrau climbing
Peak/Crag: Little Buttess, Clogwyn Cyrau, Betws
Routes: Ifan (VD:sol), The Groove (VD:sol), Sian (VD:sol), Siencyn (S:sol), Eliminate Start (VS:sol)
Being time-squeezed when climbing is not an uncommon experience for me, but this was an even shorter window than usual. Kate and kids had fizzy drinks in a Betws cafe, giving me less than 40 minutes to run up to Clogwyn Cyrau, do a few routes, and pelt back down through the forest. A beautiful day of warm sunshine, so I just nipped up a few familiar and very easy routes. That said, I don't think I've done Ifan before so did it first: a little groove just left of the enjoyable arete. The others were all good fun, nice to be in the shade but still rather humid. I took a little variant up the wall of Siencyn, then a long bouldery traverse of the wall to the right of the Eliminate Start, before running flat out back to Betws and taking the family on a long walk up to Miner's Bridge.
Routes: Ifan (VD:sol), The Groove (VD:sol), Sian (VD:sol), Siencyn (S:sol), Eliminate Start (VS:sol)
Being time-squeezed when climbing is not an uncommon experience for me, but this was an even shorter window than usual. Kate and kids had fizzy drinks in a Betws cafe, giving me less than 40 minutes to run up to Clogwyn Cyrau, do a few routes, and pelt back down through the forest. A beautiful day of warm sunshine, so I just nipped up a few familiar and very easy routes. That said, I don't think I've done Ifan before so did it first: a little groove just left of the enjoyable arete. The others were all good fun, nice to be in the shade but still rather humid. I took a little variant up the wall of Siencyn, then a long bouldery traverse of the wall to the right of the Eliminate Start, before running flat out back to Betws and taking the family on a long walk up to Miner's Bridge.
Wednesday, August 21, 2013
Ras y Mynydd
Race: Ras y Mynydd, Mynydd Llandegai (4.5m/800ft)
Time/Position: 29.31 (2nd from 43)
A cracking race - short and fast - which takes a logical loop round this little village in the wild Bethesda hinterland, whilst also taking in a great climb up Moel y Ci. A very fast start from the village hall, down small lanes, leads up to more typical fell race terrain to circumnavigate Moel y Ci. It joins uphill forest tracks to loop north round the hill to Parc y Bwlch, then takes a narrow path across to a sharp, steepish climb after Tynllidiart. I started out in fourth place but had worked my way up to second by the time we got to the woods: there were plenty of route options and the leader was just out of sight, so I had to guess the most logical route! After a very fast descent down to the western edge of the village, I could see the leader and got a bit closer to him on the long tarmac descent to the open moor of Gwaen Gynfi. There was no way I was going to catch him, however, so I just tried to consolidate second place and keep it going for the XC section across the moor. Great views of the mist peeling away from nearby Elidir Fawr. More road then leads back into the village for a final steep climb - luckily I felt surprisingly good throughout the race so was able to keep it going for a decent finish back at the hall, 22 seconds behind the winner. Excellent bara brith and tea was a welcome finishing touch. This race has been going for well over 20 years, apparently, and used to attract 120 runners.
Time/Position: 29.31 (2nd from 43)
A cracking race - short and fast - which takes a logical loop round this little village in the wild Bethesda hinterland, whilst also taking in a great climb up Moel y Ci. A very fast start from the village hall, down small lanes, leads up to more typical fell race terrain to circumnavigate Moel y Ci. It joins uphill forest tracks to loop north round the hill to Parc y Bwlch, then takes a narrow path across to a sharp, steepish climb after Tynllidiart. I started out in fourth place but had worked my way up to second by the time we got to the woods: there were plenty of route options and the leader was just out of sight, so I had to guess the most logical route! After a very fast descent down to the western edge of the village, I could see the leader and got a bit closer to him on the long tarmac descent to the open moor of Gwaen Gynfi. There was no way I was going to catch him, however, so I just tried to consolidate second place and keep it going for the XC section across the moor. Great views of the mist peeling away from nearby Elidir Fawr. More road then leads back into the village for a final steep climb - luckily I felt surprisingly good throughout the race so was able to keep it going for a decent finish back at the hall, 22 seconds behind the winner. Excellent bara brith and tea was a welcome finishing touch. This race has been going for well over 20 years, apparently, and used to attract 120 runners.
Monday, August 19, 2013
Crafnant climbing
Peak/Crag: Two Tier Buttress, Crafnant
Routes: Little Cludge (HS 4b:led), Yew Tree Slabs p. 2 (VD:led), Pinnacle Wall Indirect (HS 4b:sec)
Rather like our bushwhacking expedition above Swallow Falls earlier this month, it is very disappointing to see these fine little climbs falling into disuse. I last climbed in Crafnant in 2002 with Tim (M a tiny baby in the cafe below) and remembered the climbs as short, clean and enjoyable. Now, however, the approach path is overgrown and even these good easy routes are not getting much traffic at all. Mick and I left in the early evening, and only had a couple of hours spare, so ploughed quickly up through the woods and eventually hacked out a route over to Two Tier Buttress. I led through thick grass and brambles to get to the clean slabs at the start of Little Cludge. This gives an excellent little pitch which really deserves more attention. Pleasant climbing up slabs to a break, then a steep finish, quite committing and thought-provoking for the grade. A juggy, vertical crack leads via a couple of small ledges to a little flake, then a tricky crux move as the crack steepens to gain superb, huge holds and an escape right to a nasty vegetated finish. From here I continued up the second pitch of Yew Tree Slabs to belay awkwardly within the branches of the ancient yew itself. Beautiful views out over this tranquil valley - like Gwynant, a useful riposte to those who think Eryri is 'less pretty' than the Lakes. Mick led through and made his way up a variation on Pinnacle Wall - the normal two-pitch version of which I've done before. Whether we followed the actual line of the Indirect variant is a moot point, but our version gave some nice climbing in any case. We went direct up the pinnacle on neat pockets, then up a licheny slab before moving right but climbing the arete direct quite delicately on small holds. An awful descent through nightmarish vegetation in the gully near Forestry Buttress (no hint of a path) meant we ran out of time as I had to get back to cook a family dinner. We both ran back down to the car at the far end of the lake.
Routes: Little Cludge (HS 4b:led), Yew Tree Slabs p. 2 (VD:led), Pinnacle Wall Indirect (HS 4b:sec)
Rather like our bushwhacking expedition above Swallow Falls earlier this month, it is very disappointing to see these fine little climbs falling into disuse. I last climbed in Crafnant in 2002 with Tim (M a tiny baby in the cafe below) and remembered the climbs as short, clean and enjoyable. Now, however, the approach path is overgrown and even these good easy routes are not getting much traffic at all. Mick and I left in the early evening, and only had a couple of hours spare, so ploughed quickly up through the woods and eventually hacked out a route over to Two Tier Buttress. I led through thick grass and brambles to get to the clean slabs at the start of Little Cludge. This gives an excellent little pitch which really deserves more attention. Pleasant climbing up slabs to a break, then a steep finish, quite committing and thought-provoking for the grade. A juggy, vertical crack leads via a couple of small ledges to a little flake, then a tricky crux move as the crack steepens to gain superb, huge holds and an escape right to a nasty vegetated finish. From here I continued up the second pitch of Yew Tree Slabs to belay awkwardly within the branches of the ancient yew itself. Beautiful views out over this tranquil valley - like Gwynant, a useful riposte to those who think Eryri is 'less pretty' than the Lakes. Mick led through and made his way up a variation on Pinnacle Wall - the normal two-pitch version of which I've done before. Whether we followed the actual line of the Indirect variant is a moot point, but our version gave some nice climbing in any case. We went direct up the pinnacle on neat pockets, then up a licheny slab before moving right but climbing the arete direct quite delicately on small holds. An awful descent through nightmarish vegetation in the gully near Forestry Buttress (no hint of a path) meant we ran out of time as I had to get back to cook a family dinner. We both ran back down to the car at the far end of the lake.
Sunday, August 18, 2013
Carneddau traverse (Capel Curig-Conwy)
Peaks: Carnedd Llywellyn, Foel Grach, Carnedd Gwenllian, Foel Fras, Drum, Carnedd y Ddelw, Foel Lwyd, Tal y Fan
Range: Carneddau, Eryri
Our short break in Conwy began in heavy rain yesterday, but this gave way to milky sunshine so we all went to Capel Curig for a short walk followed by tea and cake in the cafe. After this, the family drove back to Conwy while I ran back over the Carneddau, starting in Ogwen just outside Capel Curig and heading up the steep access road to Ffynnon Llugwy. Not the most scenic approach to Carnedd Llywellyn, but you gain height quickly and the steep zigzag slopes to Bwlch Eryl Farchog are excellent hard training! From here, I took a direct scrambling line across the ridge above Craig yr Ysfa, then jogged steadily up to the summit of Llywellyn, arriving in a reasonably quick 50 mins from Ogwen. Some mist over the summit as I continued along the ridge northward, most of the climbing already done and the long runnable ridge to look forward to. It's a bit rocky initially over to Foel Grach, of course, hard to get much speed up and rather chilly as the mist descended again. I stopped at the bothy to put on my jacket, then enjoyed the superb onward route - retracing numerous race routes, taking in Carnedd Gwenllian and then Foel Fras as the mist dissipated and the sun shone. Some of my favourite terrain of all at the northern end of the Carneddau, always a pleasure, although the ridge does have a very steep sting in the tail up Foel Lwyd from Bwlch y Ddaefaen. A little dehydrated as I ran along the tiring lumpy ridge to Tal y Fan then down to Hendre: there's no water on this route! Arrived within the walls 2:50 after setting out: fish and chips urgently needed.
Range: Carneddau, Eryri
Our short break in Conwy began in heavy rain yesterday, but this gave way to milky sunshine so we all went to Capel Curig for a short walk followed by tea and cake in the cafe. After this, the family drove back to Conwy while I ran back over the Carneddau, starting in Ogwen just outside Capel Curig and heading up the steep access road to Ffynnon Llugwy. Not the most scenic approach to Carnedd Llywellyn, but you gain height quickly and the steep zigzag slopes to Bwlch Eryl Farchog are excellent hard training! From here, I took a direct scrambling line across the ridge above Craig yr Ysfa, then jogged steadily up to the summit of Llywellyn, arriving in a reasonably quick 50 mins from Ogwen. Some mist over the summit as I continued along the ridge northward, most of the climbing already done and the long runnable ridge to look forward to. It's a bit rocky initially over to Foel Grach, of course, hard to get much speed up and rather chilly as the mist descended again. I stopped at the bothy to put on my jacket, then enjoyed the superb onward route - retracing numerous race routes, taking in Carnedd Gwenllian and then Foel Fras as the mist dissipated and the sun shone. Some of my favourite terrain of all at the northern end of the Carneddau, always a pleasure, although the ridge does have a very steep sting in the tail up Foel Lwyd from Bwlch y Ddaefaen. A little dehydrated as I ran along the tiring lumpy ridge to Tal y Fan then down to Hendre: there's no water on this route! Arrived within the walls 2:50 after setting out: fish and chips urgently needed.
Saturday, August 10, 2013
Aran loop
Peaks: Aran Benllyn, Erw y Ddafad Ddu, Aran Fawddwy, Drosgl
Range: Aran, Eryri
A summer repeat of the Christmas Eve outing Peter and I did last year: with a few refinements to make it into an even better long run. Jez and I left Llanuwchllyn late afternoon, and kept a reasonable pace going on the long but relatively gentle climb up Benllyn (52 mins), following the race route until the scree summit. This really is a perfect training run, as the steep sections never last too long (apart from the final rise). Good views of black shower clouds sweeping over Cader Idris and the Rhinogs as we enjoyed the superb ridge running that leads over the middle peak to Aran Fawddwy's dramatic rock scenery. Although I've been up here many times, it's always been a bit of an 'unlucky' hill for me in terms of views, so it was nice to gaze across to the Berwyns and down to Llyn Lliwbran today. The ridge down to Drosgl was great fun, then steeply down to Llaethnant and the superb Creiglyn Dyfi - for me, one of the finest locations in Wales, remote and atmospheric (one day I'll do the climb that weaves up the lonely cliff above the lake). Another short climb to the little col before we both enjoyed the absolutely superb running descent down Cwm Llwydd and Cwm Croes. Access to this side of the Arans was once, outrageously, banned. We had no desire to run back on the road, so cut back to Llanuwchllyn through a brilliant, though overgrown little path heading north over stream valleys and meadows: dark clouds now enveloping the tops. Around 2.5 hours for the round this time, but much drier underfoot and clearer overhead.
Range: Aran, Eryri
A summer repeat of the Christmas Eve outing Peter and I did last year: with a few refinements to make it into an even better long run. Jez and I left Llanuwchllyn late afternoon, and kept a reasonable pace going on the long but relatively gentle climb up Benllyn (52 mins), following the race route until the scree summit. This really is a perfect training run, as the steep sections never last too long (apart from the final rise). Good views of black shower clouds sweeping over Cader Idris and the Rhinogs as we enjoyed the superb ridge running that leads over the middle peak to Aran Fawddwy's dramatic rock scenery. Although I've been up here many times, it's always been a bit of an 'unlucky' hill for me in terms of views, so it was nice to gaze across to the Berwyns and down to Llyn Lliwbran today. The ridge down to Drosgl was great fun, then steeply down to Llaethnant and the superb Creiglyn Dyfi - for me, one of the finest locations in Wales, remote and atmospheric (one day I'll do the climb that weaves up the lonely cliff above the lake). Another short climb to the little col before we both enjoyed the absolutely superb running descent down Cwm Llwydd and Cwm Croes. Access to this side of the Arans was once, outrageously, banned. We had no desire to run back on the road, so cut back to Llanuwchllyn through a brilliant, though overgrown little path heading north over stream valleys and meadows: dark clouds now enveloping the tops. Around 2.5 hours for the round this time, but much drier underfoot and clearer overhead.
Wednesday, August 07, 2013
Ponderosa fell race
Race: Ponderosa (4m/1000ft)
Time/Position: 28.39 (11th from 109)
One of the most exciting races on the calendar, this is always an unusual yet enjoyable outing. You don't get much time to relax, as the main climb is over in the first ten minutes. I was well off the pace as I crested the top of Cyrn y Brain in just under nine minutes from the Ponderosa - so I only had myself to blame for the fact that the inevitable major delays occurred on the very narrow tracks that weave through the heather on the initial descent. Eventually, when the descent kicks back west above Eglwyseg you get a few chances to overtake. I made one early attempt, clipped a mud bank and ended up lying in the heather, then two chaps face-planted in the first deep bog. After this I picked up a few more places as the paths broaden out, but couldn't quite catch a large group in front.
Time/Position: 28.39 (11th from 109)
One of the most exciting races on the calendar, this is always an unusual yet enjoyable outing. You don't get much time to relax, as the main climb is over in the first ten minutes. I was well off the pace as I crested the top of Cyrn y Brain in just under nine minutes from the Ponderosa - so I only had myself to blame for the fact that the inevitable major delays occurred on the very narrow tracks that weave through the heather on the initial descent. Eventually, when the descent kicks back west above Eglwyseg you get a few chances to overtake. I made one early attempt, clipped a mud bank and ended up lying in the heather, then two chaps face-planted in the first deep bog. After this I picked up a few more places as the paths broaden out, but couldn't quite catch a large group in front.
Tuesday, August 06, 2013
Coed Moel Famau loop
MTB Route: Coed Moel Famau loop (12.2km)
Another attempt to convert M from gamer to outdoor activist. Not particularly successful, as he didn't much enjoy the forest tracks which have a tendency to go up as well as down. But it stayed dry, and the grassy descent we usually run up on Friday is great fun on a mountain bike. From here, we skirted round Loggerheads and M waited at Tafarn y Gelyn while I climbed back to the car park.
Another attempt to convert M from gamer to outdoor activist. Not particularly successful, as he didn't much enjoy the forest tracks which have a tendency to go up as well as down. But it stayed dry, and the grassy descent we usually run up on Friday is great fun on a mountain bike. From here, we skirted round Loggerheads and M waited at Tafarn y Gelyn while I climbed back to the car park.
Sunday, August 04, 2013
North Wales half marathon
Race: North Wales half marathon (Beacons-Sychnant-Conwy Mountain)
Time/Position: 1.27.45 (11th from 341)
A wonderfully varied and scenic loop. I know every inch of this terrain and have run versions of this route several times in training, but I still thought that the idea of weaving it into a formal half marathon is a good one. Sadly, the inconsistency that has characterised the year was a factor again and I really struggled throughout the race: didn't enjoy it as much as I'd hoped. I was barely aware of the event at all, only hearing about it last Monday, but thought that it might be fun, and possible for fell runners to gain a few places on the long climb up Sychnant and over Conwy Mountain. Actually, the exact reverse of this happened: I went reasonably well on the 5/6 mile flat section along the beach and bike path from the Beacons to the Llanfairfechan headland and was in 7th place at this stage. But I began to struggle as soon as the road kicked up towards Penmaenmawr and that was game over really: the long climb through Dwygyfylchi over Sychnant and the 'fell race' style section up Conwy Mountain was just a case of hanging on, certainly not the anticipated romp up steepish terrain. The paths over the mountain were all very familiar to me, and give lovely views over mountain and sea. I perked up a bit on the descent and caught the three runners who'd passed me on Sychnant as we went through Cadnant Park in Conwy and down to Marine Drive. Then I blew again, needing a gel - but hadn't bothered to pack anything. Just hanging on for the flat section through the marina and back along the soft, energy-draining beach sand.
Time/Position: 1.27.45 (11th from 341)
A wonderfully varied and scenic loop. I know every inch of this terrain and have run versions of this route several times in training, but I still thought that the idea of weaving it into a formal half marathon is a good one. Sadly, the inconsistency that has characterised the year was a factor again and I really struggled throughout the race: didn't enjoy it as much as I'd hoped. I was barely aware of the event at all, only hearing about it last Monday, but thought that it might be fun, and possible for fell runners to gain a few places on the long climb up Sychnant and over Conwy Mountain. Actually, the exact reverse of this happened: I went reasonably well on the 5/6 mile flat section along the beach and bike path from the Beacons to the Llanfairfechan headland and was in 7th place at this stage. But I began to struggle as soon as the road kicked up towards Penmaenmawr and that was game over really: the long climb through Dwygyfylchi over Sychnant and the 'fell race' style section up Conwy Mountain was just a case of hanging on, certainly not the anticipated romp up steepish terrain. The paths over the mountain were all very familiar to me, and give lovely views over mountain and sea. I perked up a bit on the descent and caught the three runners who'd passed me on Sychnant as we went through Cadnant Park in Conwy and down to Marine Drive. Then I blew again, needing a gel - but hadn't bothered to pack anything. Just hanging on for the flat section through the marina and back along the soft, energy-draining beach sand.
Friday, August 02, 2013
Foel Goch scrambles
Peak/Crag: Creigiau Gleision/Foel Goch
Route: Needle's Eye (North) Arete (M:led p.1,2,3,4)
This crag is an atmospheric and neglected place with wonderful views into the jaws of Ogwen and down Nant Ffrancon. I'd been up here for the neighbouring South Arete before, but after doing Traditional Route above Betws this morning, the rain clouds wreathing Siabod cleared and it seemed like a good idea to bolt on a mountain outing to the day. John is still very new to all this, and is leaving the country soon anyway, so a long scramble with good views was in order. We ploughed up the steep hillside via the shallow scree couloir in 20 minutes, running where possible. The broad gully then gives access to the tremendous rock architecture which characterises this crag: very much a place for the mountaineer, with this route in particular having a distinctly Alpine flavour. We traversed right to avoid a wet slab, then crept rightwards along an exposed ledge to the North Arete itself. We roped up here, and I led round the bulging wall, an easy traverse, to gain a vegetated and insecure grassy runnel which led steeply up to regain the arete at an exposed notch. Great views over the gully to Tryfan. After bringing John up, I led a short second pitch up a slab to the sharp arete itself, gaining the 'Needle's eye' - a perfect thread belay that it seemed rude not to use. I took the next section direct, up a steep crack (more like easy climbing than scrambling) and dodgy blocks to a flake then the top of a gendarme. After another tricky but very short pitch, the route breaks up into a series of pinnacles. We took the rope off and I was pleasantly surprised by the continuation: taking all the pinnacles direct on good rock. Very windy, but superb clarity of light as the rain clouds dissipated completely: deep blue skies and fluffy clouds. We ran to the summit of Foel Goch, then plunged down to Bwlch y Brecan to gain superb, exhilarating running down the spur separating Cwm Bual from Cwm Perfedd. This ends in a very steep nose which gives uncomfortable but very fast downhill running to the old road.
Route: Needle's Eye (North) Arete (M:led p.1,2,3,4)
This crag is an atmospheric and neglected place with wonderful views into the jaws of Ogwen and down Nant Ffrancon. I'd been up here for the neighbouring South Arete before, but after doing Traditional Route above Betws this morning, the rain clouds wreathing Siabod cleared and it seemed like a good idea to bolt on a mountain outing to the day. John is still very new to all this, and is leaving the country soon anyway, so a long scramble with good views was in order. We ploughed up the steep hillside via the shallow scree couloir in 20 minutes, running where possible. The broad gully then gives access to the tremendous rock architecture which characterises this crag: very much a place for the mountaineer, with this route in particular having a distinctly Alpine flavour. We traversed right to avoid a wet slab, then crept rightwards along an exposed ledge to the North Arete itself. We roped up here, and I led round the bulging wall, an easy traverse, to gain a vegetated and insecure grassy runnel which led steeply up to regain the arete at an exposed notch. Great views over the gully to Tryfan. After bringing John up, I led a short second pitch up a slab to the sharp arete itself, gaining the 'Needle's eye' - a perfect thread belay that it seemed rude not to use. I took the next section direct, up a steep crack (more like easy climbing than scrambling) and dodgy blocks to a flake then the top of a gendarme. After another tricky but very short pitch, the route breaks up into a series of pinnacles. We took the rope off and I was pleasantly surprised by the continuation: taking all the pinnacles direct on good rock. Very windy, but superb clarity of light as the rain clouds dissipated completely: deep blue skies and fluffy clouds. We ran to the summit of Foel Goch, then plunged down to Bwlch y Brecan to gain superb, exhilarating running down the spur separating Cwm Bual from Cwm Perfedd. This ends in a very steep nose which gives uncomfortable but very fast downhill running to the old road.
Swallow Falls Buttress climbing
Crag: Craig Rhaeadr Ewynnol, Betws y Coed
Route: Traditional Route (S:led p.1,2,3,4)
This climb is being lost to the vegetation: a real shame, as it is a nice route in the mould of Aberglaslyn's better known Canyon Rib, and would benefit from more traffic. It will always be an esoteric outing because of its location, but the short pitches and modest standard made it an ideal route to take novice John up - particularly because some heavy showers had just swept across the region and were still anchored over the mountains. We parked at Ty Hyll and enjoyed a delightful amble along the River Lledr with just the odd spot of light drizzle. After passing Swallow Falls, we bushwhacked up to the start of the route - fairly easy to find, but unpleasant amounts of mud and brambles. It was clearly pretty dirty but seemed dryish, and we'd come all this way, so I led off up the coffin-shaped block to 'have a look'. A few moves gained the top of the block, then a step to a platform led to another crack. This had good handholds but mossy, insecure and overgrown footholds on the right wall. The second pitch took a short, clean crack to a tricky move to gain some big finishing holds. The views over the valley to Swallow Falls just get better, with a lovely atmosphere created by the rush of the water. The third pitch was easy up two linked cracks, a weakness in the wall, but all the holds and nut placements needed excavation - it was feeling like a first ascent by now. All very enjoyable and gentle, though, and John was able to follow after a bit of thought. I sidled down the recess to gain the original finish, slightly runout to a flake, then good climbing up a broad groove in a nice position to the woods on top: great views across to the tourists at the Falls, who were now watching us with interest. The weather was starting to clear as we descended (too early initially - an Indiana Jones-style nightmare as a wall collapsed beneath my feet and the brambles threatened to bury us). The sun came out as we sauntered back along the Lledr, so I thought we should make the day into a two-parter. After lunch in Capel, we drove down the old Nant Ffrancon road intent on a mountaineering afternoon - but that seems to warrant a separate entry!
Route: Traditional Route (S:led p.1,2,3,4)
This climb is being lost to the vegetation: a real shame, as it is a nice route in the mould of Aberglaslyn's better known Canyon Rib, and would benefit from more traffic. It will always be an esoteric outing because of its location, but the short pitches and modest standard made it an ideal route to take novice John up - particularly because some heavy showers had just swept across the region and were still anchored over the mountains. We parked at Ty Hyll and enjoyed a delightful amble along the River Lledr with just the odd spot of light drizzle. After passing Swallow Falls, we bushwhacked up to the start of the route - fairly easy to find, but unpleasant amounts of mud and brambles. It was clearly pretty dirty but seemed dryish, and we'd come all this way, so I led off up the coffin-shaped block to 'have a look'. A few moves gained the top of the block, then a step to a platform led to another crack. This had good handholds but mossy, insecure and overgrown footholds on the right wall. The second pitch took a short, clean crack to a tricky move to gain some big finishing holds. The views over the valley to Swallow Falls just get better, with a lovely atmosphere created by the rush of the water. The third pitch was easy up two linked cracks, a weakness in the wall, but all the holds and nut placements needed excavation - it was feeling like a first ascent by now. All very enjoyable and gentle, though, and John was able to follow after a bit of thought. I sidled down the recess to gain the original finish, slightly runout to a flake, then good climbing up a broad groove in a nice position to the woods on top: great views across to the tourists at the Falls, who were now watching us with interest. The weather was starting to clear as we descended (too early initially - an Indiana Jones-style nightmare as a wall collapsed beneath my feet and the brambles threatened to bury us). The sun came out as we sauntered back along the Lledr, so I thought we should make the day into a two-parter. After lunch in Capel, we drove down the old Nant Ffrancon road intent on a mountaineering afternoon - but that seems to warrant a separate entry!
Thursday, August 01, 2013
Deeside Off-Road Race
Race: Deeside Off-Road Grand Prix Race 3 (4.8m)
Time/Position: 27.01
Quite a bit quicker than the first two races in the series, but no different in terms of position, so there may have been some small tweaks to the course. I have been feeling a little quicker in the last two weeks, though, so concentrated on trying to stay with in-form Jez. Yet again, the race was dominated by Veterans, but I needed a reasonable finishing position as I will be away for the fourth and final race next month. Jez pulled away a bit on the fields, while I managed to pull back on the tarmac. It all came down to a fun sprint finish, which I inevitably lost!
Time/Position: 27.01
Quite a bit quicker than the first two races in the series, but no different in terms of position, so there may have been some small tweaks to the course. I have been feeling a little quicker in the last two weeks, though, so concentrated on trying to stay with in-form Jez. Yet again, the race was dominated by Veterans, but I needed a reasonable finishing position as I will be away for the fourth and final race next month. Jez pulled away a bit on the fields, while I managed to pull back on the tarmac. It all came down to a fun sprint finish, which I inevitably lost!
Tuesday, July 30, 2013
Clwydian run
Having returned home yesterday, this was an attempt to up the mileage in preparation for Pedol Peris: the marathons and Scotland seem a distant memory now. I ran along the leat from Cadole, then through Cilcain up to the crossroads and along to climb the steep side of Moel Arthur. Then back along the whole ridge to Moel Dywyll and Moel Famau and back via a detour to Loggerheads.
Sunday, July 28, 2013
Exmoor run
Peak: Dunkery Beacon
Area: Exmoor, Somerset
We opted to take a circuitous route home from Cornwall, so set off from a night in Tiverton up through Exmoor to the coast at Minehead. Torrential rain as we parked below Dunkery Beacon. This was a nice way to loosen the legs after last night's race, although the Beacon itself - the highpoint of Exmoor - is a very short outing from the road. I lengthened the run by following a track to the south of the hill as the shower clouds began to lift, then doubled back round to the huge cairn on the summit in spectacular conditions of sunburst and storm cloud. Views over Exmoor and across the Severn to the Glamorgan coast. I continued down through some lovely woods, then walked back up Dunkery Beacon for a second time with Kate during a longer sunny interval. Later, we all walked up Glastonbury Tor and looked back to this hill on the western horizon.
Area: Exmoor, Somerset
We opted to take a circuitous route home from Cornwall, so set off from a night in Tiverton up through Exmoor to the coast at Minehead. Torrential rain as we parked below Dunkery Beacon. This was a nice way to loosen the legs after last night's race, although the Beacon itself - the highpoint of Exmoor - is a very short outing from the road. I lengthened the run by following a track to the south of the hill as the shower clouds began to lift, then doubled back round to the huge cairn on the summit in spectacular conditions of sunburst and storm cloud. Views over Exmoor and across the Severn to the Glamorgan coast. I continued down through some lovely woods, then walked back up Dunkery Beacon for a second time with Kate during a longer sunny interval. Later, we all walked up Glastonbury Tor and looked back to this hill on the western horizon.
Saturday, July 27, 2013
Tywardreath Trotter
Race: Tywardreath Trotter, Cornwall (7m)
Time/Position: 44.32 (6th from 266 [2nd V40])
An ideal opportunity to stretch my legs on the long journey home from Coverack, this race exceeded my expectations - a lovely multi-terrain circuit with a bit of everything thrown into the mix. A really special atmosphere throughout: this was clearly a big event and the village turned out to watch in amazingly big numbers. A long and tortuous drive via Veryan and Mevagissey - sustained by a classic cream tea - saw us arrive in Tywardreath near Fowey as the evening sun came out: neither child could be persuaded to do the fun run, preferring to take in the race barbecue instead. Almost 300 runners from a huge range of clubs turned out, as this was the final counter in the Cornish summer off-road race series. After a circuit of the whole village, we headed out into the lanes via a steep, rocky descent down to a lovely riverside path. It was hard to overtake so I took it easy for a while, expecting a long climb up to the 3 mile point (having luckily checked the profile and map just before the start!). I began to pick up places and soon found myself in a group of four, about 50m behind the lead group of four. After we crested the high point of the route, tarmac lanes led to more bridleways. I was evenly matched with the others in the group on the road, but tended to gain ground on the steeper fell-style climbs. As a result, I pulled into fourth place during the long final climb up a small road which lead to fields with a superb view of the sea above Fowey. I was still in fourth approaching the final descent down steep steps, during which you can hear the roar (almost a roar anyway!) of the village crowds. They then get a good view as you descend down a dip then climb back up to the pub. My pathetic excuse for a finishing kick meant I was run out of it in front of my family in the last 100m, pushed back down to sixth place by the two chaps I'd run in with: less than a minute behind the winner surprisingly. The most enjoyable race I've done for some time: a great event. I ran straight back up to the car and we began the long drive to our next hotel in Tiverton via Dartmoor, me still in my sweaty race vest.
Time/Position: 44.32 (6th from 266 [2nd V40])
An ideal opportunity to stretch my legs on the long journey home from Coverack, this race exceeded my expectations - a lovely multi-terrain circuit with a bit of everything thrown into the mix. A really special atmosphere throughout: this was clearly a big event and the village turned out to watch in amazingly big numbers. A long and tortuous drive via Veryan and Mevagissey - sustained by a classic cream tea - saw us arrive in Tywardreath near Fowey as the evening sun came out: neither child could be persuaded to do the fun run, preferring to take in the race barbecue instead. Almost 300 runners from a huge range of clubs turned out, as this was the final counter in the Cornish summer off-road race series. After a circuit of the whole village, we headed out into the lanes via a steep, rocky descent down to a lovely riverside path. It was hard to overtake so I took it easy for a while, expecting a long climb up to the 3 mile point (having luckily checked the profile and map just before the start!). I began to pick up places and soon found myself in a group of four, about 50m behind the lead group of four. After we crested the high point of the route, tarmac lanes led to more bridleways. I was evenly matched with the others in the group on the road, but tended to gain ground on the steeper fell-style climbs. As a result, I pulled into fourth place during the long final climb up a small road which lead to fields with a superb view of the sea above Fowey. I was still in fourth approaching the final descent down steep steps, during which you can hear the roar (almost a roar anyway!) of the village crowds. They then get a good view as you descend down a dip then climb back up to the pub. My pathetic excuse for a finishing kick meant I was run out of it in front of my family in the last 100m, pushed back down to sixth place by the two chaps I'd run in with: less than a minute behind the winner surprisingly. The most enjoyable race I've done for some time: a great event. I ran straight back up to the car and we began the long drive to our next hotel in Tiverton via Dartmoor, me still in my sweaty race vest.
Tuesday, July 23, 2013
Pednavounder-Godrevy Cornish coast run
After an attempt at a speed session on the lanes yesterday, I continued the holiday theme with another relaxed outing first thing in the morning. From Pednavounder, the sun cast low beams over the sea as I descended into Coverack at Dolor Point. Lovely running through the village to gain the SW Coast Path, this time heading NE towards Pedn Myin and Lowland Point. The scenery here is less dramatic than on Sunday's outing, but gives fine running right next to the sea, past seals and curlews. Dean Quarry is an unfortunate unsightly intrusion, but Godrevy Cove comes shortly afterwards and is a remote and appealing beach. From here, I headed inland, gradually climbing to the hamlet of Rosenithon, then back home via the tiny lanes I'd explored yesterday - through the heathland of Main Dale to St Keverne Beacon and the cottage.
Sunday, July 21, 2013
Chynhalls-Carn Kennack Cornish coast run
The first full day of our Cornish holiday, so left bright and early to jog down from our cottage at Pednavounder to Trewillis and the Lizard coastline above Chynhalls cliff. I'd explored some of this yesterday, but the morning run along the SW Coast Path was just superb. Tremendous views west from Black Head, then over Pedn Boar to Beagles Hole (supposedly the site of buried pirate treasure - with a very specific legend attached). From here, a very steep up-and-down over Downas Cove led to a series of atmospheric coves, then steep Zawn Vinoc and the peninsula of Carrick Luz. Quicker, flatter running then led to Kennack Sands and over to Carn Kennack, before I located the obscure path that led via a surprisingly tough climb inland to Trevenwith farm and a good bridleway to the hamlet of Ponsongath and back to the cottage.
Thursday, July 18, 2013
Longland's Climb, Cloggy
Crag: Clogwyn du'r Arddu, Yr Wyddfa
Routes: Longland's Climb (VS 4a,4b,4a,4c:led p.1,2,5)
One of the grand old Welsh classics and only the second time I've climbed on this, the greatest of all Welsh crags. We had initially planned to do some shorter routes on the steep East Buttress, but such is the nature of this long-running heatwave that a big route on West Buttress just seemed more appropriate. Longland's was the first route to breach this face in 1928, and gives a tremendous route up a series of intricate narrow slabs on the left of the cliff. I found it more sustained, slightly better, and probably a tad more serious than Great Slab, which we did two years ago. The adventure begins immediately, with the scramble along the East Terrace to gain a wet and vegetated approach line that goes up behind a big flake. We roped up for the airy move round this flake to a good thread in an already exposed position. I led up the first narrow slab. A mildly tricky start gains a good flake then easy and enjoyable climbing in a nice position up the slab, poised above the Black Cleft to the left. The dry weather meant that even the crack on the right of the slab was dry, lending itself to some cam placements. I couldn't find a decent belay where the slab narrowed into a chimney where the right wall closes in, so continued up the second pitch as the slab steepens slightly up sharp flakes to a good nut placement. Then comes the crux, right at the top of this giant 40m pitch: small holds lead to the top of the slab then a surprisingly tricky mantelshelf in a superb position pulling out of the slab to the right, then up more easily to a poor belay. Vic's pitch was equally long, better and more coherent than we'd expected. The guide suggests it is broken and chossy, but it's actually good straitforward slabby climbing in a superb position high on the cliff. This leads to a big ledge with numerous flakes: above which the final pitch rises intimidatingly. Steep moves up a vague arete poised above a lot of space beyond the right edge of the ledge leads via a surprisingly awkward pinch grip and hard pull up (for the grade) to a huge jug, which leads to more good holds then easier climbing up right towards a final awkward slanting chimney. I led a final fifth pitch up the broken rib which leads to a wide couloir and the top. A long descent down the Eastern Terrace: all quite atmospheric, and much more secure than the Western Terrace we descended in 2011. Thirsty and hungry, we were glad to traverse right down good scrambling sections to the sacs. After a late lunch, we decided that swimming in usually freezing, dark, atmospheric Llyn du'r Arddu was a better prize than another route - so scampered down the screes and plunged in. Chilly, but not unacceptable.
Routes: Longland's Climb (VS 4a,4b,4a,4c:led p.1,2,5)
One of the grand old Welsh classics and only the second time I've climbed on this, the greatest of all Welsh crags. We had initially planned to do some shorter routes on the steep East Buttress, but such is the nature of this long-running heatwave that a big route on West Buttress just seemed more appropriate. Longland's was the first route to breach this face in 1928, and gives a tremendous route up a series of intricate narrow slabs on the left of the cliff. I found it more sustained, slightly better, and probably a tad more serious than Great Slab, which we did two years ago. The adventure begins immediately, with the scramble along the East Terrace to gain a wet and vegetated approach line that goes up behind a big flake. We roped up for the airy move round this flake to a good thread in an already exposed position. I led up the first narrow slab. A mildly tricky start gains a good flake then easy and enjoyable climbing in a nice position up the slab, poised above the Black Cleft to the left. The dry weather meant that even the crack on the right of the slab was dry, lending itself to some cam placements. I couldn't find a decent belay where the slab narrowed into a chimney where the right wall closes in, so continued up the second pitch as the slab steepens slightly up sharp flakes to a good nut placement. Then comes the crux, right at the top of this giant 40m pitch: small holds lead to the top of the slab then a surprisingly tricky mantelshelf in a superb position pulling out of the slab to the right, then up more easily to a poor belay. Vic's pitch was equally long, better and more coherent than we'd expected. The guide suggests it is broken and chossy, but it's actually good straitforward slabby climbing in a superb position high on the cliff. This leads to a big ledge with numerous flakes: above which the final pitch rises intimidatingly. Steep moves up a vague arete poised above a lot of space beyond the right edge of the ledge leads via a surprisingly awkward pinch grip and hard pull up (for the grade) to a huge jug, which leads to more good holds then easier climbing up right towards a final awkward slanting chimney. I led a final fifth pitch up the broken rib which leads to a wide couloir and the top. A long descent down the Eastern Terrace: all quite atmospheric, and much more secure than the Western Terrace we descended in 2011. Thirsty and hungry, we were glad to traverse right down good scrambling sections to the sacs. After a late lunch, we decided that swimming in usually freezing, dark, atmospheric Llyn du'r Arddu was a better prize than another route - so scampered down the screes and plunged in. Chilly, but not unacceptable.
Wednesday, July 17, 2013
Adam Rib, Craig Cwm Du
Crag/Peak: Craig Cwm Du, Mynydd Mawr
Routes: Adam Rib (HS 4b:led p.1,4)
Broke the long afternoon journey to the Caernarfon hinterland with an idyllic coastal run from Aber to Llanfairfechan and back. Blue sky, deep blue sea, a cooling onshore breeze. After a picnic, I headed up meet Vic at the obscure but superbly situated village of Fron. I couldn't remember coming up here before, but the views of Nantlle and Llyn are tremendous, especially on a day like this. We had decided to take advantage of the heatwave by going for those high, north-facing crags that need weather like this - always satisfying to grab these 'prizes', rather like winter climbing in that sense. We parked at the quarries and walked along the fine level path above Llyn Ffynnhonau to gain the main Mynydd Mawr ridge. We should have just contoured into the cwm at this point, but looked to maintain height and quickly ran out of descent options as the crag just becomes too steep. Cue an infuriating detour all the way to the top of the crag and down rubble and heather slopes further east. An enormous waste of precious time and - more importantly - energy, as we were intending to head to Cloggy first thing tomorrow morning. Once there, Adam Rib is fairly easy to identify: I'd been up in this remote cwm once before and have wanted to do the route for years. It is one of the classic low-grade mountaineering routes in Snowdonia, and clearly visible from Caernarfon and surrounds. It gives a lovely route in a delightfully peaceful location. It was all bone dry and warm as I set off up the messy first pitch with the sun sinking over the ridge. Even this had pleasant moments, a long 40m scramble with some steeper sections up the rib line. Vic went too far left on the next pitch, but I thought it was a lovely piece of gentle climbing, up the left wall of a deep groove to a subsidiary rib, then a juggy traverse across to the stance. As Vic was now diagonally above me, and completely off route, I fashioned a belay with the limited gear I had and he continued to lead upwards towards the real line, depriving me of pitch three! After a delicate traverse across to get his gear, I moved back to the juggy crack left of the main rib, then a few loose pinnacles to the saddle belay below the final pitch. This is steep and narrow: the crux of the route, so it was nice to be able to lead it especially as the low sun lit the rib as we climbed upwards. I crept up the right-hand side then pulled leftwards onto the rib in a superb position. The rock needs careful handling here, but the 4b crux is very short and the position above is excellent as the rib flattens out whilst remaining narrow. Then a beautiful walk down from Mynydd Mawr, along the ridge in superb clarity of evening light, with a long corridor of sunlight over the Irish Sea and Llyn. A couple of pints in the Railway in Porthmadog followed by pizza on the terrace.
Routes: Adam Rib (HS 4b:led p.1,4)
Broke the long afternoon journey to the Caernarfon hinterland with an idyllic coastal run from Aber to Llanfairfechan and back. Blue sky, deep blue sea, a cooling onshore breeze. After a picnic, I headed up meet Vic at the obscure but superbly situated village of Fron. I couldn't remember coming up here before, but the views of Nantlle and Llyn are tremendous, especially on a day like this. We had decided to take advantage of the heatwave by going for those high, north-facing crags that need weather like this - always satisfying to grab these 'prizes', rather like winter climbing in that sense. We parked at the quarries and walked along the fine level path above Llyn Ffynnhonau to gain the main Mynydd Mawr ridge. We should have just contoured into the cwm at this point, but looked to maintain height and quickly ran out of descent options as the crag just becomes too steep. Cue an infuriating detour all the way to the top of the crag and down rubble and heather slopes further east. An enormous waste of precious time and - more importantly - energy, as we were intending to head to Cloggy first thing tomorrow morning. Once there, Adam Rib is fairly easy to identify: I'd been up in this remote cwm once before and have wanted to do the route for years. It is one of the classic low-grade mountaineering routes in Snowdonia, and clearly visible from Caernarfon and surrounds. It gives a lovely route in a delightfully peaceful location. It was all bone dry and warm as I set off up the messy first pitch with the sun sinking over the ridge. Even this had pleasant moments, a long 40m scramble with some steeper sections up the rib line. Vic went too far left on the next pitch, but I thought it was a lovely piece of gentle climbing, up the left wall of a deep groove to a subsidiary rib, then a juggy traverse across to the stance. As Vic was now diagonally above me, and completely off route, I fashioned a belay with the limited gear I had and he continued to lead upwards towards the real line, depriving me of pitch three! After a delicate traverse across to get his gear, I moved back to the juggy crack left of the main rib, then a few loose pinnacles to the saddle belay below the final pitch. This is steep and narrow: the crux of the route, so it was nice to be able to lead it especially as the low sun lit the rib as we climbed upwards. I crept up the right-hand side then pulled leftwards onto the rib in a superb position. The rock needs careful handling here, but the 4b crux is very short and the position above is excellent as the rib flattens out whilst remaining narrow. Then a beautiful walk down from Mynydd Mawr, along the ridge in superb clarity of evening light, with a long corridor of sunlight over the Irish Sea and Llyn. A couple of pints in the Railway in Porthmadog followed by pizza on the terrace.
Tuesday, July 16, 2013
Trafford AC Grand Prix 3k
Race: Longford Park 3000m
Time/Position: 9.49 (14th from 27 [1st Veteran])
After 300 races and 15 years of running, this was my first ever formal track meet: at Longford Park in Stretford. It was also my first ever 3k race - but it had struck me for a while that sub 10 minutes was a fairly obvious target for one of my vintage and decrepitude. The problem is that interval training, other speedwork and all road races are purely winter pursuits for me: summer is reserved exclusively for the mountains. As such, I'd done no formal preparation for this: and it is a pretty serious event in a proper athletics stadium on a proper track with a crowd and some very talented athletes. In short, I was impressed with the level of organisation and the precision of the timing: and really enjoyed the very different experience of pelting round the track for 7.5 laps. I concentrated on maintaining 1:20 per lap pace, and stayed reasonably comfortable for the first 3 or 4. Then, inevitably, oxygen debt becomes the key factor - but I managed to push the pace just a little to give myself a cushion for sub-10. The intense heat of the day just wasn't a factor, surprisingly, although a stiff breeze was annoying at times. The last lap was quite tough, but I was pleased with my time and wonder if I could go a bit quicker during winter training.
Time/Position: 9.49 (14th from 27 [1st Veteran])
After 300 races and 15 years of running, this was my first ever formal track meet: at Longford Park in Stretford. It was also my first ever 3k race - but it had struck me for a while that sub 10 minutes was a fairly obvious target for one of my vintage and decrepitude. The problem is that interval training, other speedwork and all road races are purely winter pursuits for me: summer is reserved exclusively for the mountains. As such, I'd done no formal preparation for this: and it is a pretty serious event in a proper athletics stadium on a proper track with a crowd and some very talented athletes. In short, I was impressed with the level of organisation and the precision of the timing: and really enjoyed the very different experience of pelting round the track for 7.5 laps. I concentrated on maintaining 1:20 per lap pace, and stayed reasonably comfortable for the first 3 or 4. Then, inevitably, oxygen debt becomes the key factor - but I managed to push the pace just a little to give myself a cushion for sub-10. The intense heat of the day just wasn't a factor, surprisingly, although a stiff breeze was annoying at times. The last lap was quite tough, but I was pleased with my time and wonder if I could go a bit quicker during winter training.
Monday, July 08, 2013
Tryfan West Face scrambles
Crag/Peak: West Face, Tryfan
Routes: V Buttress Arete (M:led p.1,2,3), Notch Arete (M:led p.1,2,3)
After taking John on his first ever climb last month, I thought he might enjoy a short mountaineering day a little more, so we went for a combined run/scramble up the West Face of Tryfan in the continuing spell of high pressure and warm sunshine. This is usually described as Tryfan's 'cinderella' area, far removed from the crowds of punters on the East Face classics. This combination gives a superb mountain day, however, and was ideal for our purposes as time was tight. We jogged slowly upwards to gain the shallow gully which gives steep but rapid access to the upper part of the West Face (20 mins). I've done some routes here over the years, but couldn't remember going this far 'up'. I located the V Buttress quite easily, and led off from the loose gully in running shoes on my short 9mm rope. After a flake, some nice moves gain the crest of the buttress, after which a series of sharp flakes led to a belay. I deliberately kept all the pitches short so I could keep an eye on John. Above, the ridge continued in this vein: easy angled slabs and flakes at the exact border of scrambling and climbing (Alpine PD+ perhaps). At the top, I led through up a variant finish - a steep little chimney on the crest of the ridge. We then unroped and scrambled diagonally up right to where I thought Notch Arete started. This was nice, but a bit midgy, and involved some scrambly sections to gain the base of the arete. Notch Arete was a real surprise: a lovely Alpine style ridge, almost a chandelle, glowing in the sunshine. Perfect rock, and I weaved around picking up nice variants up chimneys and grooves to gain a sloping platform. Two more pitches led quite delightfully up the centre of the arete - all easy angled, big holds, perfect for novice John. Wonderful views, and a connoisseur's route up Tryfan. We emerged at the Notch, then enjoyed picking a direct line above to North Tower to lunch on the summit in hot sunshine. We descended the South Ridge to Bwlch Tryfan, then ran down via Llyn Bochlwyd: Notch Arete very obvious as a line from here.
Routes: V Buttress Arete (M:led p.1,2,3), Notch Arete (M:led p.1,2,3)
After taking John on his first ever climb last month, I thought he might enjoy a short mountaineering day a little more, so we went for a combined run/scramble up the West Face of Tryfan in the continuing spell of high pressure and warm sunshine. This is usually described as Tryfan's 'cinderella' area, far removed from the crowds of punters on the East Face classics. This combination gives a superb mountain day, however, and was ideal for our purposes as time was tight. We jogged slowly upwards to gain the shallow gully which gives steep but rapid access to the upper part of the West Face (20 mins). I've done some routes here over the years, but couldn't remember going this far 'up'. I located the V Buttress quite easily, and led off from the loose gully in running shoes on my short 9mm rope. After a flake, some nice moves gain the crest of the buttress, after which a series of sharp flakes led to a belay. I deliberately kept all the pitches short so I could keep an eye on John. Above, the ridge continued in this vein: easy angled slabs and flakes at the exact border of scrambling and climbing (Alpine PD+ perhaps). At the top, I led through up a variant finish - a steep little chimney on the crest of the ridge. We then unroped and scrambled diagonally up right to where I thought Notch Arete started. This was nice, but a bit midgy, and involved some scrambly sections to gain the base of the arete. Notch Arete was a real surprise: a lovely Alpine style ridge, almost a chandelle, glowing in the sunshine. Perfect rock, and I weaved around picking up nice variants up chimneys and grooves to gain a sloping platform. Two more pitches led quite delightfully up the centre of the arete - all easy angled, big holds, perfect for novice John. Wonderful views, and a connoisseur's route up Tryfan. We emerged at the Notch, then enjoyed picking a direct line above to North Tower to lunch on the summit in hot sunshine. We descended the South Ridge to Bwlch Tryfan, then ran down via Llyn Bochlwyd: Notch Arete very obvious as a line from here.
Sunday, July 07, 2013
Fairy Freckled Cow trail race
Race: Freckled Cow/Alwen trail race (11k)
Time/Position: 43.02 (6th from 143)
The hottest race I can remember since a scorcher on Gamelin three or four years ago. Llyn Alwen is in something of a bowl, although that's not immediately apparent, and there was very little breeze. To make matters worse, the race started just before midday on a hot (25c) midsummer day. It's the same for everyone, though, and the intermittent woodland does at least offer a bit of shade. I'd never done the event before, although I have run round Alwen a few times in the past. It's a delightful circuit round a scenic lake, with lots of undulations before crossing the outflow at the wild Hiraethog end. From here, a steady but draining climb into the moors leads to a short ridge before more undulations lead to the woods and the dam at the end of the lake. I picked up a few places on the short climbs before the bridge and, although I struggled on the main climb in the heat, everybody slowed a bit here. The remainder of the race, through the undulating woods on the western shore, was pretty tough as the heat took its toll.
Time/Position: 43.02 (6th from 143)
The hottest race I can remember since a scorcher on Gamelin three or four years ago. Llyn Alwen is in something of a bowl, although that's not immediately apparent, and there was very little breeze. To make matters worse, the race started just before midday on a hot (25c) midsummer day. It's the same for everyone, though, and the intermittent woodland does at least offer a bit of shade. I'd never done the event before, although I have run round Alwen a few times in the past. It's a delightful circuit round a scenic lake, with lots of undulations before crossing the outflow at the wild Hiraethog end. From here, a steady but draining climb into the moors leads to a short ridge before more undulations lead to the woods and the dam at the end of the lake. I picked up a few places on the short climbs before the bridge and, although I struggled on the main climb in the heat, everybody slowed a bit here. The remainder of the race, through the undulating woods on the western shore, was pretty tough as the heat took its toll.
Thursday, July 04, 2013
Deeside Off-Road race
Race: Deeside Off-Road Grand Prix Race 2 (4.8m)
Time/Position: 27.48 (7th from 80)
Another pleasant and warm evening for the second race in this summer XC series. As with last month's opener, I found this a bit of a struggle, but deliberately started a little more steadily and eventually came in 20 seconds quicker. Another strong field, but some fairly large gaps again opened during the first lap of the fields and woods. I was gaining on the runner in front, but couldn't catch him, and was caught out by my old bugbear - an upset stomach - on the final run-in along the dyke. Cue a desperate final lap as I sprinted to get to the facilities.
Time/Position: 27.48 (7th from 80)
Another pleasant and warm evening for the second race in this summer XC series. As with last month's opener, I found this a bit of a struggle, but deliberately started a little more steadily and eventually came in 20 seconds quicker. Another strong field, but some fairly large gaps again opened during the first lap of the fields and woods. I was gaining on the runner in front, but couldn't catch him, and was caught out by my old bugbear - an upset stomach - on the final run-in along the dyke. Cue a desperate final lap as I sprinted to get to the facilities.
Saturday, June 29, 2013
Ras Foel Fras
Race: Foel Fras fell race (20k/920m)
Time/Position: 1.55.48 (6th from 60)
In contrast to last year, when I found myself leading over Moel Wnion in driving sleet, as well as 2009 (when an incoming storm decimated the field on the summit of Garnedd Uchaf) conditions today were calm and serene. Although I was at least four minutes down, however, I still really enjoyed the race which remains one of my favourites: maybe my fifth time at the event? The climb from Aber must be one of the longest anywhere - basically five miles and an hour of constant uphill effort. After the steep early tarmac, some gaps started to appear as we all got into our respective rhythms. Jez was well ahead at this point but, unusually for a race of this length, myself and a guy from Glossopdale found ourselves neatly matched for pace on the long gradual climb up Drum. We took it in turns to take over the lead, pushing ourselves gradually towards the summit. He was stronger towards the top of Drum, although I managed to drag myself back on the boggy crawl up Foel Fras where I regained a bit of strength. We tried in vain to get up to the runner in third place before scampering through the awkward boulder fields on top of Foel Fras to fast running over the good path to Garnedd Uchaf. No bearing necessary this year, but I still managed to plunge too far north, skirting Bera Mawr in a reasonably direct contouring line but unfortunately bringing us both out on the steep scree below the summit. We both went flying on the tussocks shortly before this, and I continued slightly winded. I took a better line across to Moel Wnion, and on the early part of the descent - but the Glossopdale runner and another fast finisher were too strong for me on the descent and I finished at the back of our small group. My knee wasn't the problem, just a basic lack of speed at present. That said, I always thoroughly enjoy the final descent on this race - with the sea glistening below and great views over the wooded valley to Llwytmor.
Time/Position: 1.55.48 (6th from 60)
In contrast to last year, when I found myself leading over Moel Wnion in driving sleet, as well as 2009 (when an incoming storm decimated the field on the summit of Garnedd Uchaf) conditions today were calm and serene. Although I was at least four minutes down, however, I still really enjoyed the race which remains one of my favourites: maybe my fifth time at the event? The climb from Aber must be one of the longest anywhere - basically five miles and an hour of constant uphill effort. After the steep early tarmac, some gaps started to appear as we all got into our respective rhythms. Jez was well ahead at this point but, unusually for a race of this length, myself and a guy from Glossopdale found ourselves neatly matched for pace on the long gradual climb up Drum. We took it in turns to take over the lead, pushing ourselves gradually towards the summit. He was stronger towards the top of Drum, although I managed to drag myself back on the boggy crawl up Foel Fras where I regained a bit of strength. We tried in vain to get up to the runner in third place before scampering through the awkward boulder fields on top of Foel Fras to fast running over the good path to Garnedd Uchaf. No bearing necessary this year, but I still managed to plunge too far north, skirting Bera Mawr in a reasonably direct contouring line but unfortunately bringing us both out on the steep scree below the summit. We both went flying on the tussocks shortly before this, and I continued slightly winded. I took a better line across to Moel Wnion, and on the early part of the descent - but the Glossopdale runner and another fast finisher were too strong for me on the descent and I finished at the back of our small group. My knee wasn't the problem, just a basic lack of speed at present. That said, I always thoroughly enjoy the final descent on this race - with the sea glistening below and great views over the wooded valley to Llwytmor.
Wednesday, June 26, 2013
Pant Ifan climbing
Crag: Craig Bwlch y Moch/Craig Pant Ifan, Tremadog
Routes: Striptease (VS 5a:sec), Great Western/The Quakerman (VS+ 4b,5a,4a,4b:led p.1,3), Scratch (VS 4b,4c:led p.1)
Woke up to steady drizzle in Porthmadog: very annoying. So we put our Pant Ifan plans on hold and went off to do the classic wet weather option of Striptease, which takes a gently overhanging deep chimney/corner and therefore stays dry. I've done this at least three times now, and always find it strenuous for the grade, so Vic led. As always, it provided a good workout: with three tricky sections to fight past the overlaps. The second is the hardest, giving awkward moves with little for the feet. We then headed back to the cafe for a drink and respite from the midges, waiting for the weather to clear. It did, so we headed up the screes to Pant Ifan, where I wanted to do Great Western: one of the few VS gaps for me left at Tremadog. I led a rather damp first pitch (drying rapidly) up dirty rock from the trees to a groove before heading up the little arete to the right. One tricky move up this, involving a pinched hold, regains the groove and tree belay. Vic then led through up a variant direct second pitch: the 5a twin cracks taken by The Quakerman, a nearby eliminate at E2. This was a tad vegetated, but excellent: technical rather than strenuous, and very enjoyable on finger locks and toe jams. Easier ground then leads to the crux of Great Western: a deceptively awkward slanting chimney/crack, which continually pushes you off balance towards a tricky slab on the left. I then led the vegetated third, now in warm sunshine, which goes up cracks directly above the belay to a stance in a niche further left (Borchgrevink?). The last pitch follows broken and vegetated ground up to a very steep and quite sustained final groove: felt harder than 4b, so possibly not the final pitch of Great Western. We abbed down Barbarian and started immediately up Scratch in warm, almost hot, sunshine. I led the delightful first pitch (for the second time) which traverses gently across the face up slabby rock and small positive holds: lovely stuff. I followed Vic up the final pitch, with merciful shade for the initial crack, which is easier than it looks. The traverse across to the final crack is an atmospheric finale, great position, and leads to good jams.
Routes: Striptease (VS 5a:sec), Great Western/The Quakerman (VS+ 4b,5a,4a,4b:led p.1,3), Scratch (VS 4b,4c:led p.1)
Woke up to steady drizzle in Porthmadog: very annoying. So we put our Pant Ifan plans on hold and went off to do the classic wet weather option of Striptease, which takes a gently overhanging deep chimney/corner and therefore stays dry. I've done this at least three times now, and always find it strenuous for the grade, so Vic led. As always, it provided a good workout: with three tricky sections to fight past the overlaps. The second is the hardest, giving awkward moves with little for the feet. We then headed back to the cafe for a drink and respite from the midges, waiting for the weather to clear. It did, so we headed up the screes to Pant Ifan, where I wanted to do Great Western: one of the few VS gaps for me left at Tremadog. I led a rather damp first pitch (drying rapidly) up dirty rock from the trees to a groove before heading up the little arete to the right. One tricky move up this, involving a pinched hold, regains the groove and tree belay. Vic then led through up a variant direct second pitch: the 5a twin cracks taken by The Quakerman, a nearby eliminate at E2. This was a tad vegetated, but excellent: technical rather than strenuous, and very enjoyable on finger locks and toe jams. Easier ground then leads to the crux of Great Western: a deceptively awkward slanting chimney/crack, which continually pushes you off balance towards a tricky slab on the left. I then led the vegetated third, now in warm sunshine, which goes up cracks directly above the belay to a stance in a niche further left (Borchgrevink?). The last pitch follows broken and vegetated ground up to a very steep and quite sustained final groove: felt harder than 4b, so possibly not the final pitch of Great Western. We abbed down Barbarian and started immediately up Scratch in warm, almost hot, sunshine. I led the delightful first pitch (for the second time) which traverses gently across the face up slabby rock and small positive holds: lovely stuff. I followed Vic up the final pitch, with merciful shade for the initial crack, which is easier than it looks. The traverse across to the final crack is an atmospheric finale, great position, and leads to good jams.
Tuesday, June 25, 2013
Bwlch y Moch climbing
Crag: Craig Bwlch y Moch, Tremadog
Routes: Smarter than the Average Bear (VS 4c:sec), Yogi p.2 (VS 4b), Shere Khan (S:led), Mr Ranger (VS 4c:sec), Valerie's Rib Direct (HS 4a,4a:led p.1)
Broke the late afternoon journey to Tremadog with a truly delightful run from Aber, from the coast to the Falls, then along the foot of Moel Wnion to pick up the Foel Fras race descent. Blue sky above, deep blue sea below. Startled a party of German schoolchildren on this very obscure path! Later on, I met Vic at Eric's cafe for an evening of climbing, and we did a few short, easy routes on the right of the main crag: just concentrating on mileage, using hybrids of various different routes to good effect. I followed Vic up the variant left of the Yogi arete (which I last did 20 years ago) to begin. This gives some nice delicate moves and we continued up the variant finish to Yogi, up the rough, crystalline crack which splits the final slab. Abbed off, and I led the very easy Shere Khan: this supposedly had a nice finish up the headwall, but I could only find a vegetated groove. It looked awful, so I continued further right and belayed just below the Yogi arete so Vic could lead the pleasant finishing groove of Smarter at 4c. Mr Ranger is a cleaned and surprisingly good pitch which takes the obvious corner to a short slab, then a steep but juggy crack which joins Yogi higher up. We were moving quickly and efficiently, so we nipped round to the old classic Valerie's Rib for a finale. This is perhaps the closest climb to the cafe, and I opted for the direct start, which is a useful way of extending the route. A slabby corner, huge holds, leads to big blocks and easy climbing to the normal start. The moves across to the arete were as delightful as I remembered them from 20 years ago: perfectly placed holds allow for a delicate traverse across two grooves and give access to a ledge on the crest of the rib. I then followed the right wall of the groove taken by the Direct variant for a bit, but moved right quite quickly to take in the lovely climbing on the normal route. A good evening's work, so we retired to the Ship for pie and pint.
Routes: Smarter than the Average Bear (VS 4c:sec), Yogi p.2 (VS 4b), Shere Khan (S:led), Mr Ranger (VS 4c:sec), Valerie's Rib Direct (HS 4a,4a:led p.1)
Broke the late afternoon journey to Tremadog with a truly delightful run from Aber, from the coast to the Falls, then along the foot of Moel Wnion to pick up the Foel Fras race descent. Blue sky above, deep blue sea below. Startled a party of German schoolchildren on this very obscure path! Later on, I met Vic at Eric's cafe for an evening of climbing, and we did a few short, easy routes on the right of the main crag: just concentrating on mileage, using hybrids of various different routes to good effect. I followed Vic up the variant left of the Yogi arete (which I last did 20 years ago) to begin. This gives some nice delicate moves and we continued up the variant finish to Yogi, up the rough, crystalline crack which splits the final slab. Abbed off, and I led the very easy Shere Khan: this supposedly had a nice finish up the headwall, but I could only find a vegetated groove. It looked awful, so I continued further right and belayed just below the Yogi arete so Vic could lead the pleasant finishing groove of Smarter at 4c. Mr Ranger is a cleaned and surprisingly good pitch which takes the obvious corner to a short slab, then a steep but juggy crack which joins Yogi higher up. We were moving quickly and efficiently, so we nipped round to the old classic Valerie's Rib for a finale. This is perhaps the closest climb to the cafe, and I opted for the direct start, which is a useful way of extending the route. A slabby corner, huge holds, leads to big blocks and easy climbing to the normal start. The moves across to the arete were as delightful as I remembered them from 20 years ago: perfectly placed holds allow for a delicate traverse across two grooves and give access to a ledge on the crest of the rib. I then followed the right wall of the groove taken by the Direct variant for a bit, but moved right quite quickly to take in the lovely climbing on the normal route. A good evening's work, so we retired to the Ship for pie and pint.
Sunday, June 23, 2013
Moel y Gamelin fell race
Race: Moel y Gamelin (10m/2400ft)
Time/Position: 1.20.24 (10th from 105)
Heavy rain swept across the top of the Horseshoe Pass as we started up the short, sharp climb to Moel y Faen: and a cold headwind slowed progress along the ridge. But after Wednesday's awful performance, I was relieved to feel far stronger today and kept a reasonable plodding pace going across the tops of Gamelin, Moel y Gaer and the steep final climb up Moel Morfydd, the last peak on the ridge. It was all quite enjoyable in the conditions, much better than the hot weather of previous years (although I think I've only done this race twice before). It's not a typical fell race, because after the crossing at Bwlch y Groes it turns into a cross-country loop, out into the wilds to the west, before heading back for a tough final climb to regain the ridge and summit of Moel y Gamelin for the second time. I benefited a little from what remains of my winter speed work in this section (plus a useful tailwind), and started to pick up places, feeling good after holding back, and gained a couple more on the climb: the exact reverse of Wednesday. A very strong field again: a counter in three different championships.
Time/Position: 1.20.24 (10th from 105)
Heavy rain swept across the top of the Horseshoe Pass as we started up the short, sharp climb to Moel y Faen: and a cold headwind slowed progress along the ridge. But after Wednesday's awful performance, I was relieved to feel far stronger today and kept a reasonable plodding pace going across the tops of Gamelin, Moel y Gaer and the steep final climb up Moel Morfydd, the last peak on the ridge. It was all quite enjoyable in the conditions, much better than the hot weather of previous years (although I think I've only done this race twice before). It's not a typical fell race, because after the crossing at Bwlch y Groes it turns into a cross-country loop, out into the wilds to the west, before heading back for a tough final climb to regain the ridge and summit of Moel y Gamelin for the second time. I benefited a little from what remains of my winter speed work in this section (plus a useful tailwind), and started to pick up places, feeling good after holding back, and gained a couple more on the climb: the exact reverse of Wednesday. A very strong field again: a counter in three different championships.
Wednesday, June 19, 2013
Hotfoot up Famau fell race
Race: Hotfoot up Famau
Time/Position: 40.32 (13th from 104)
I've been due a really bad race for a while, struggling in training for a month, so there was something inevitable about this. Well over two minutes down on last year's time, and not far off my slowest ever time for this race (which is normally one of my favourites). I didn't feel too bad initially, but the unique nature of this course means you have to start fast and hold your place on the long plummet down the valley. Started to struggle towards the top of Moel y Gaer and felt awful on the little ridge that leads to the steep descent on peat to Nant y Ne. I completely blew here, and had to walk even the gentlest gradient, losing buckets of time and lots of positions. The gully was hot and humid, which made my suffering even worse, and I was glad to get to the descent down from Famau. Not sure what the problem was: long high-pressure day at conference, or hayfever? Looks like I might be helping to organise this race next year, so it's a bit of a shame I couldn't bow out with a better performance!
Time/Position: 40.32 (13th from 104)
I've been due a really bad race for a while, struggling in training for a month, so there was something inevitable about this. Well over two minutes down on last year's time, and not far off my slowest ever time for this race (which is normally one of my favourites). I didn't feel too bad initially, but the unique nature of this course means you have to start fast and hold your place on the long plummet down the valley. Started to struggle towards the top of Moel y Gaer and felt awful on the little ridge that leads to the steep descent on peat to Nant y Ne. I completely blew here, and had to walk even the gentlest gradient, losing buckets of time and lots of positions. The gully was hot and humid, which made my suffering even worse, and I was glad to get to the descent down from Famau. Not sure what the problem was: long high-pressure day at conference, or hayfever? Looks like I might be helping to organise this race next year, so it's a bit of a shame I couldn't bow out with a better performance!
Monday, June 17, 2013
Moel Siabod run
Peaks: Moel Siabod
Area: Moelwynion, Eryri
After a few short climbs, we headed across the bridge near Plas y Brenin and started the long gradual climb through the woods to the open hill beyond. This gives very pleasant running, never too steep, although a few sharp rises on the open hill slowed progress a bit. We got to the summit in just under 40 minutes, to find the cloud base trying to lift from the summits of the Snowdon group and Carneddau. Nice panoramic views for John, which is what I'd intended. Jogged down to the car in Mymbyr in 20 minutes or so: a lovely descent, particularly after the summit scree slopes.
Area: Moelwynion, Eryri
After a few short climbs, we headed across the bridge near Plas y Brenin and started the long gradual climb through the woods to the open hill beyond. This gives very pleasant running, never too steep, although a few sharp rises on the open hill slowed progress a bit. We got to the summit in just under 40 minutes, to find the cloud base trying to lift from the summits of the Snowdon group and Carneddau. Nice panoramic views for John, which is what I'd intended. Jogged down to the car in Mymbyr in 20 minutes or so: a lovely descent, particularly after the summit scree slopes.
Dyffryn Mymbyr Climbing
Crag: Clogwyn Wen/Blocks, Dyffryn Mymbyr
Routes: Holly Tree Buttress (VD:led), Slab and Crack (VD:led), Chatterbox (S:led)
I had promised John B a better experience of Eryri after his unfortunate hypothermia incident at Easter led to an even worse infection which stopped him running for months. He asked to be taken climbing for the first time ever, so we set off for the small crags near Plas y Brenin by way of an introduction before our planned mountain run. I've never done these routes before, as the crags are just short Peak-style outcrops really, but Holly Tree Buttress made a near perfect beginner's climb: very simple yet nicely varied. It was a bit damp, as low cloud was producing light drizzle, but a steep crack led to a pinnacle, then a little traverse to a crack. Pleasant easy climbing up this led to a juggy final face. John struggled a bit, and left a bit of gear behind, but seemed to enjoy it so we did a couple of short routes on the Blocks before heading off on our run. Chatterbox was a thrutchy route up a wide off-width crack, hardly ideal, and rather tough for the grade - although extremely short. We then jogged back to the car and started our run up Siabod.
Routes: Holly Tree Buttress (VD:led), Slab and Crack (VD:led), Chatterbox (S:led)
I had promised John B a better experience of Eryri after his unfortunate hypothermia incident at Easter led to an even worse infection which stopped him running for months. He asked to be taken climbing for the first time ever, so we set off for the small crags near Plas y Brenin by way of an introduction before our planned mountain run. I've never done these routes before, as the crags are just short Peak-style outcrops really, but Holly Tree Buttress made a near perfect beginner's climb: very simple yet nicely varied. It was a bit damp, as low cloud was producing light drizzle, but a steep crack led to a pinnacle, then a little traverse to a crack. Pleasant easy climbing up this led to a juggy final face. John struggled a bit, and left a bit of gear behind, but seemed to enjoy it so we did a couple of short routes on the Blocks before heading off on our run. Chatterbox was a thrutchy route up a wide off-width crack, hardly ideal, and rather tough for the grade - although extremely short. We then jogged back to the car and started our run up Siabod.
Wednesday, June 12, 2013
Bryn Alyn Orienteering
Race: Bryn Alyn Orienteering (Light Green, 3k+)
Time/Position: 39.41 (2nd from 9)
A second attempt at short-course orienteering, after my initial humiliating baptism at Erddig. I thought the open hill nature of this course, along with the fact that I know the area well (indeed I was racing across exactly the same ground last night!) might help me, but again I found it hard to adapt to the large scale and sheer level of detail on the map. It started off OK, with the first few checkpoints fairly easy to locate on the open hill east of Bryn Alyn, then a tricky one in a copse was followed by a long uphill leg which I managed quite easily. I was going well at this point, then became over-confident for the next long leg, which seemed straightforward but took a while to find (hidden under a crag). The next two proved tough, as I misjudged the scale of the map and went too far away for CP 7, then did the same for the 8th CP hidden below a crag. I concentrated for the final four on a long run-in, and finally adapted to the scale for a reasonably quick and efficient finale.
Time/Position: 39.41 (2nd from 9)
A second attempt at short-course orienteering, after my initial humiliating baptism at Erddig. I thought the open hill nature of this course, along with the fact that I know the area well (indeed I was racing across exactly the same ground last night!) might help me, but again I found it hard to adapt to the large scale and sheer level of detail on the map. It started off OK, with the first few checkpoints fairly easy to locate on the open hill east of Bryn Alyn, then a tricky one in a copse was followed by a long uphill leg which I managed quite easily. I was going well at this point, then became over-confident for the next long leg, which seemed straightforward but took a while to find (hidden under a crag). The next two proved tough, as I misjudged the scale of the map and went too far away for CP 7, then did the same for the 8th CP hidden below a crag. I concentrated for the final four on a long run-in, and finally adapted to the scale for a reasonably quick and efficient finale.
Tuesday, June 11, 2013
Up the Beast fell race
Race: Up the Beast (4.5m/1500ft)
Time/Position: 37:33 (8th from 90)
The local races all seem to be getting far tougher: there was a time when I was first Veteran at this race, but I can't see those days coming back again! As with last week, this event was dominated by the over 40s and I finished well down the field although my time was virtually identical to last year. I've done every one of these races since it was launched, six now I think, and always really enjoy it. This time, I started a little slowly as I have been feeling very tired since returning from Scotland and have done very little running. This tactic worked reasonably well, and I kept it going on the first climb via the 'Beast' to the limestone crags of Bryn Alyn. The little climbing sections are a novelty and, although I lost places on the descent to Big Covert, I regained them on the super-steep and very humid climb back to Bryn Alyn. A good descent of the Beast allowed me to pick up a couple more places through the woods: knee feeling fine now.
Time/Position: 37:33 (8th from 90)
The local races all seem to be getting far tougher: there was a time when I was first Veteran at this race, but I can't see those days coming back again! As with last week, this event was dominated by the over 40s and I finished well down the field although my time was virtually identical to last year. I've done every one of these races since it was launched, six now I think, and always really enjoy it. This time, I started a little slowly as I have been feeling very tired since returning from Scotland and have done very little running. This tactic worked reasonably well, and I kept it going on the first climb via the 'Beast' to the limestone crags of Bryn Alyn. The little climbing sections are a novelty and, although I lost places on the descent to Big Covert, I regained them on the super-steep and very humid climb back to Bryn Alyn. A good descent of the Beast allowed me to pick up a couple more places through the woods: knee feeling fine now.
Friday, June 07, 2013
Lliwedd climbing
Peak/Crag: Lliwedd East Buttress
Routes: Avalanche (VD: led p.1,3,5), Red Wall (HVD: led p.2), Longland's Continuation (HVD: led p.2)
The classic combination up Lliwedd's long East Buttress, and a glaring gap in my climbing CV for 25 years. It is essentially a 9 or 10 pitch (almost 300m) continuous slice of mountaineering: very few technical moves, but a great deal of route-finding, awkward rock and nice situations. A week of warm dry sunshine made the big, high cliffs almost compulsory: the ideal Lliwedd conditions. I drove down to Mymbyr to avoid the ludicrous fees of PyP, which was probably full anyway, and ran from the valley up past Pen y Gwryd to rejoin Vic and the sacs at the Pass: a nice loosener after last evening's race. The walk-in was a delight, warm breezes and fantastic clarity of light: Lliwedd's buttresses lit to perfection by the morning sun. It did take us the allotted hour, mind, so I pushed on up the first pitch - which is a pleasant groove allowing us to get reacquainted with Lliwedd's characteristic pinch and sloping holds. This took us into the shadows at the end of the Heather Shelf, and Vic then merged the enjoyable long rising traverse to easy slabs. This gave me the Quartz Wall, which gives a few brief awkward moves over blocky quartz to move right into a short groove. I belayed on the rib. Then came the first route-finding challenge: I had only bought a vague and inadequate topo by way of 'Alpine Training', as Lliwedd is notorious for its complexity and tricky navigation. As a result, Vic continued up the vegetated and loose groove - not very pleasant - up to a steeper wall. I followed through, easy scrambling, up to the Great Terrace and the end of Avalanche. The first pitch of Red Wall gives good climbing, up a groove to a steepening, then nice moves on good solid rock to gain a rib on the right. Great atmosphere above the terrace and shallow gully: the complexity and scale of the cliff very apparent at this point. The topo was virtually useless up here, so I continued (wrongly I suspect) up an obvious slab which gave slightly precarious climbing up dirty cracks and suspect flakes, vegetated in places, and meant I had to go above the Green Gallery to get a decent belay. A nice section of rock lies above, and Longland's Continuation is far more solid and very atmospheric high up on the crag: Vic led up a slab to a good clean rib and a series of easy cracks. This gave me the delightful final 40ft slab, the technical crux of the entire route at 4b, but very short-lived. It has the virtue of finishing on the sunny summit, and was a great way to finish. A long but beautifully sunny descent, and I ran from PyP back to the car in Mymbyr.
Routes: Avalanche (VD: led p.1,3,5), Red Wall (HVD: led p.2), Longland's Continuation (HVD: led p.2)
The classic combination up Lliwedd's long East Buttress, and a glaring gap in my climbing CV for 25 years. It is essentially a 9 or 10 pitch (almost 300m) continuous slice of mountaineering: very few technical moves, but a great deal of route-finding, awkward rock and nice situations. A week of warm dry sunshine made the big, high cliffs almost compulsory: the ideal Lliwedd conditions. I drove down to Mymbyr to avoid the ludicrous fees of PyP, which was probably full anyway, and ran from the valley up past Pen y Gwryd to rejoin Vic and the sacs at the Pass: a nice loosener after last evening's race. The walk-in was a delight, warm breezes and fantastic clarity of light: Lliwedd's buttresses lit to perfection by the morning sun. It did take us the allotted hour, mind, so I pushed on up the first pitch - which is a pleasant groove allowing us to get reacquainted with Lliwedd's characteristic pinch and sloping holds. This took us into the shadows at the end of the Heather Shelf, and Vic then merged the enjoyable long rising traverse to easy slabs. This gave me the Quartz Wall, which gives a few brief awkward moves over blocky quartz to move right into a short groove. I belayed on the rib. Then came the first route-finding challenge: I had only bought a vague and inadequate topo by way of 'Alpine Training', as Lliwedd is notorious for its complexity and tricky navigation. As a result, Vic continued up the vegetated and loose groove - not very pleasant - up to a steeper wall. I followed through, easy scrambling, up to the Great Terrace and the end of Avalanche. The first pitch of Red Wall gives good climbing, up a groove to a steepening, then nice moves on good solid rock to gain a rib on the right. Great atmosphere above the terrace and shallow gully: the complexity and scale of the cliff very apparent at this point. The topo was virtually useless up here, so I continued (wrongly I suspect) up an obvious slab which gave slightly precarious climbing up dirty cracks and suspect flakes, vegetated in places, and meant I had to go above the Green Gallery to get a decent belay. A nice section of rock lies above, and Longland's Continuation is far more solid and very atmospheric high up on the crag: Vic led up a slab to a good clean rib and a series of easy cracks. This gave me the delightful final 40ft slab, the technical crux of the entire route at 4b, but very short-lived. It has the virtue of finishing on the sunny summit, and was a great way to finish. A long but beautifully sunny descent, and I ran from PyP back to the car in Mymbyr.
Thursday, June 06, 2013
Deeside Off-Road Race
Race: Deestriders Off-Road Grand Prix Race 1 (4.6m)
Time/Position: 28.06 (5th from 75)
Lots of diary clashes preventing me from racing at present, so I seized the opportunity to give this four-race summer series a proper bash for the first time (having never managed more than one appearance in previous years). A nice warm evening, very dry underfoot, and a valuable work-out. I felt quite uncomfortable throughout, probably because I haven't raced or done any speedwork for over a month. Went off a little fast, and found myself battling it out for fifth place after a mile or two. My knee felt OK, but even though this course is flat - based on two big laps of playing fields and woodland - I lost ground as soon as the race left the tarmac. By the time I got to the return leg along a dyke by the side of the Dee, I was starting to blow a bit. But, given my lack of training and racing, I was quite pleased to finish 5th - although all the top five were over 40.
Tuesday, June 04, 2013
Buckstones bouldering
I'd never heard of the Buckstones, but discovered them after scouting around for venues that I could visit on my regular trips to Huddersfield (Dovestones and the crags I'd visited previously being rather unsuitable). It turned out to be a very pleasant little bouldering venue: a sort of miniature Yorkshire version of Fontainebleau. I had very little time, so started off 'below the road' on a series of small boulders with nice views out over March Heigh reservoir and over classic Pennine moorland to Marsden and Black Hill. I worked my way through the easy problems of Sector F - nothing harder than Font 5, so good for weaklings. These included 29, 30, 40 (up a vague flake), 43, 44, 45, 46, 48, 54 (Keeping Toads: a nice font 4 up a longer grit wall), 66 (pleasant arete and scoop), 67 (good holds up a clean wall), 68 (font 5: more technical steep wall via a pocket), 69 (good easy climbing up arete), 72, 73, 74, 75, 76. Beautiful warm sunshine all day.
Saturday, June 01, 2013
Ben Vrackie
Peaks: Ben Vrackie (841m)
Area: South-East Highlands
This was a perfect way to briefly break the journey home from Torridon: an opportunity to stretch the driving legs. The weather was nice, high cloud base, as we drove past the Cairngorms so I initially made plans to run up the dull hills east of Drumochter. However, this would have been a tedious repeat of last Saturday for the family (and me). Instead, as Ben Vrackie rises directly above the nice town of Pitlochry, which we have enjoyed visiting in the past, it seemed perfect. I took it flat out from the car park in Moulin: unsurprisingly, it was clearly very popular with a perfectly constructed path the whole way up. Very runnable as a result, through nice woodland to gentle inclines rising up the open hillside to Loch a'Choire. From here, the path rises steeply up hundreds of well constructed steps to the well positioned summit: a neatly defined peak. Car to summit in 39 minutes. Lots of people around, very much Pitlochry's 'signature peak': it made a novel change from the wilder peaks of last week and was a nice final taste of the Highlands. The sun came out while I was on top: Beinn a'Ghlo the most notable group, sun dappled, with the Cairngorms beyond. To the west, Ben Lawers, Schiehallion and the like. I pelted back down to meet the family eating lunch in Moulin and we recommenced our journey back to Wales.
Area: South-East Highlands
This was a perfect way to briefly break the journey home from Torridon: an opportunity to stretch the driving legs. The weather was nice, high cloud base, as we drove past the Cairngorms so I initially made plans to run up the dull hills east of Drumochter. However, this would have been a tedious repeat of last Saturday for the family (and me). Instead, as Ben Vrackie rises directly above the nice town of Pitlochry, which we have enjoyed visiting in the past, it seemed perfect. I took it flat out from the car park in Moulin: unsurprisingly, it was clearly very popular with a perfectly constructed path the whole way up. Very runnable as a result, through nice woodland to gentle inclines rising up the open hillside to Loch a'Choire. From here, the path rises steeply up hundreds of well constructed steps to the well positioned summit: a neatly defined peak. Car to summit in 39 minutes. Lots of people around, very much Pitlochry's 'signature peak': it made a novel change from the wilder peaks of last week and was a nice final taste of the Highlands. The sun came out while I was on top: Beinn a'Ghlo the most notable group, sun dappled, with the Cairngorms beyond. To the west, Ben Lawers, Schiehallion and the like. I pelted back down to meet the family eating lunch in Moulin and we recommenced our journey back to Wales.
Friday, May 31, 2013
Glen Carron
Peaks: Moruisg (928m), Sgurr nan Ceannaichean (915m)
Area: Glen Carron
The perfect clarity of the last few days disappeared this morning, and our boat trip from Gairloch was marred slightly by drizzle and a cold wind. But by the afternoon, the rain had stopped and the cloud base was beginning to rise slightly. Inland seemed to offer the best chance of a view, so I went for a quick two hour evening blast from Glen Carron: an entirely unfamiliar area for me, but only a short drive from the cottage. It is hard to find anything good to say about my ascent of Moruisg, however: a featureless whaleback which gave one of the least pleasant runs/slogs I have ever experienced. Bog low down gave way to very steep grass, then a broad and uninteresting ridge: it was like being on Kinder Scout. Some drizzle and a lowering cloud base worsened the experience and I was glad to reach the summit quickly (50 mins) because I was starting to tire after the week's activities. I ran on a bearing through the mist above Coire Toll nam Bian and then things suddenly improved: proving my old adage that days in the mountains always have something. The mist dissipated, the running was smooth and superb, and Sgurr nan Ceannaichean (a much more shapely peak) suddenly appeared directly in front. A pronounced col gave views inland to the more remote peaks of Sgurr a'Chaorachain and Maoile Lunndaidh. An interesting, twisting ascent gained the summit of Ceannaichean, where these views improved further. Then, the peaks to the north started to clear: Sgurr Ruadh, Fuar Tholl and others. Then, very gradually, the entire NW Highlands emerged from the gloom as I began the descent. First, the Skye Cuillin appeared in a halo of blue sky, then the Torridon peaks emerged, then A'Mhaighdean and An Teallach. Superb, as was a very fast running descent down the North Ridge. A rocky outcrop took some thought to negotiate, and the Stalker's Path above the Alltan na Feola was boggier and slower than expected, but it all had a nice Highland atmosphere and I completed the loop in two hours for a pleasingly efficient outing.
Area: Glen Carron
The perfect clarity of the last few days disappeared this morning, and our boat trip from Gairloch was marred slightly by drizzle and a cold wind. But by the afternoon, the rain had stopped and the cloud base was beginning to rise slightly. Inland seemed to offer the best chance of a view, so I went for a quick two hour evening blast from Glen Carron: an entirely unfamiliar area for me, but only a short drive from the cottage. It is hard to find anything good to say about my ascent of Moruisg, however: a featureless whaleback which gave one of the least pleasant runs/slogs I have ever experienced. Bog low down gave way to very steep grass, then a broad and uninteresting ridge: it was like being on Kinder Scout. Some drizzle and a lowering cloud base worsened the experience and I was glad to reach the summit quickly (50 mins) because I was starting to tire after the week's activities. I ran on a bearing through the mist above Coire Toll nam Bian and then things suddenly improved: proving my old adage that days in the mountains always have something. The mist dissipated, the running was smooth and superb, and Sgurr nan Ceannaichean (a much more shapely peak) suddenly appeared directly in front. A pronounced col gave views inland to the more remote peaks of Sgurr a'Chaorachain and Maoile Lunndaidh. An interesting, twisting ascent gained the summit of Ceannaichean, where these views improved further. Then, the peaks to the north started to clear: Sgurr Ruadh, Fuar Tholl and others. Then, very gradually, the entire NW Highlands emerged from the gloom as I began the descent. First, the Skye Cuillin appeared in a halo of blue sky, then the Torridon peaks emerged, then A'Mhaighdean and An Teallach. Superb, as was a very fast running descent down the North Ridge. A rocky outcrop took some thought to negotiate, and the Stalker's Path above the Alltan na Feola was boggier and slower than expected, but it all had a nice Highland atmosphere and I completed the loop in two hours for a pleasingly efficient outing.
Thursday, May 30, 2013
Torridon Mountain Trail
The only Alpine-style waymarked mountain trail in the UK, and as it started a mile or so from our front door we thought it might make a good family outing. M agreed to try it with a 'positive mental attitude' as I came over all Californian: so we set off from the shores of Loch Maree through the Caledonian pine woods, with E reading about the points of interest as we passed. I was a little tired after Beinn Dearg this morning, so it made a nice though quite vigorous warm-down: quite challenging for the children with 560m vertical ascent (6-7km). The weather remained stunning, the visibility and clarity razor sharp, which was a considerable help. At first, it all went very well and the children seemed to be enjoying it as we emerged from the trees to take a steep but beautifully constructed path above a little gorge to a fine viewpoint overlooking Slioch and Loch Maree. Morale began to slip after Trumpeter Rock, with a long gap between points of interest. Neither wanted to carry on, but gentle persuasion and some lunch improved spirits and after a while we passed the 400m contour. This was a major boost, and shortly afterwards we arrived at the 'summit' cairn, with wonderful views over the whole Beinn Eighe ridge that I'd done on Tuesday. It was great to be able to share the views I'd been getting all week with the whole family, just a perfect family walking circuit with spectacular views and a genuine mountain feel. We had some peanuts to mark the occasion. The downwards route was just a delight, past 'Lunar Loch' to a winding route along a little ridge above a gorge, then back into the pine woods and a meal at the Whistlestop cafe to celebrate.
Beinn Dearg
Peaks: Stuc Loch na Cabhaig (888m), Beinn Dearg (914m)
Area: Beinn Dearg, Torridon
This is the last piece in the Torridon jigsaw, and the peak that is most often missed by visiting enthusiasts. Indeed, it is perhaps the ultimate illustration of the foolishness of munro bagging because it is two feet under the magic mark, but a superb little mountain and just as interesting as the more celebrated Torridonian peaks. I'd expected it to be less busy than the 'big three' but was still surprised by just how unpopular it clearly was and the consequent trackless nature of the terrain. I started very early from the Alligin car park in more stunning, cloudless weather (early mist dissipating). Very fast running led quickly up the Coire Mhic Nobuil to where the path forks to the Horns of Alligin (familiar from 2005). Above this, more good running led to the Bealach a Chomhla in the wild interior of the range. No hint of a path up the NW spur of Stuc Loch ma Cabhaig, which was if anything even steeper than the frontal assault on the main peak (which I had avoided because I wanted to do the entire ridge). The terrain was comfortable though, short grass and boulders leading to some short rock walls higher up. I finally gained the ridge in around 80 minutes and a vague path. I then had the entire ridge to look forward to in perfect weather, completely alone. Good easy scrambling up the crest led quickly to Cabhaig summit. Then a combination of mild scrambling and brilliant, exhilerating running along the broader ridge led to the main summit of Beinn Dearg. Alligin looks particularly good from here, particularly in the morning sunshine with the early mist peeling away. From the summit, the ridge kinks east above Loch a Choire Mhoir and narrows considerably over a flat-topped tower with good scrambling. After this, a large gendarme lower down blocks the way. I took the crest direct, which gave short-lived but excellent scrambling, reminiscent of An Teallach in that it was easy but nicely positioned. From the narrow top, two chimneys led down to a grassy col. From here, I ran up the next unnamed peak, then descended direct. This was tricky and required a bit of scouting from above, but eventually I settled on a gully that went down from the col. This was untravelled but perfectly reasonable and led steeply down to Lochan a Chaorainn in a wonderful position between Dearg and Liathach. From here, I ran flat out back to the car park - 2:30 for the round - as I had promised to get back to the cottage by 11.30am for our planned family attempt on the Beinn Eighe mountain trail.
Area: Beinn Dearg, Torridon
This is the last piece in the Torridon jigsaw, and the peak that is most often missed by visiting enthusiasts. Indeed, it is perhaps the ultimate illustration of the foolishness of munro bagging because it is two feet under the magic mark, but a superb little mountain and just as interesting as the more celebrated Torridonian peaks. I'd expected it to be less busy than the 'big three' but was still surprised by just how unpopular it clearly was and the consequent trackless nature of the terrain. I started very early from the Alligin car park in more stunning, cloudless weather (early mist dissipating). Very fast running led quickly up the Coire Mhic Nobuil to where the path forks to the Horns of Alligin (familiar from 2005). Above this, more good running led to the Bealach a Chomhla in the wild interior of the range. No hint of a path up the NW spur of Stuc Loch ma Cabhaig, which was if anything even steeper than the frontal assault on the main peak (which I had avoided because I wanted to do the entire ridge). The terrain was comfortable though, short grass and boulders leading to some short rock walls higher up. I finally gained the ridge in around 80 minutes and a vague path. I then had the entire ridge to look forward to in perfect weather, completely alone. Good easy scrambling up the crest led quickly to Cabhaig summit. Then a combination of mild scrambling and brilliant, exhilerating running along the broader ridge led to the main summit of Beinn Dearg. Alligin looks particularly good from here, particularly in the morning sunshine with the early mist peeling away. From the summit, the ridge kinks east above Loch a Choire Mhoir and narrows considerably over a flat-topped tower with good scrambling. After this, a large gendarme lower down blocks the way. I took the crest direct, which gave short-lived but excellent scrambling, reminiscent of An Teallach in that it was easy but nicely positioned. From the narrow top, two chimneys led down to a grassy col. From here, I ran up the next unnamed peak, then descended direct. This was tricky and required a bit of scouting from above, but eventually I settled on a gully that went down from the col. This was untravelled but perfectly reasonable and led steeply down to Lochan a Chaorainn in a wonderful position between Dearg and Liathach. From here, I ran flat out back to the car park - 2:30 for the round - as I had promised to get back to the cottage by 11.30am for our planned family attempt on the Beinn Eighe mountain trail.
Wednesday, May 29, 2013
Torridon Celtic Jumble bouldering
We only had time to scratch the surface of this superb venue, but M and I nipped up from the road to have a play around on this collection of boulders. Immaculate hard sandstone, so although I've never taken to this discipline even after several trips to the mecca of fontainebleau, this is the sort of place where I could begin to see the appeal. Had no guidebook, so did a good traverse at around 5+ (North Wall?), then moved over to the far end with M. I did North Face Direct (font 5+) on the Ship Boulder up to the final move, then reversed (no mat, M spotting!). After this, we both enjoyed some juggier lines on a smaller wall further north, then all went for a drink at the Torridon Hotel. We sat outside enjoying the sunlit views of Alligin and Liathach. Fantastic.
Applecross
Peak: Sgurr a'Chaorachain (776m)
Area: Applecross
My birthday coincided with the arrival of even better weather: deep blue sky and eye-searing visibility. After a beautiful drive down Glen Torridon, we continued over Britain's only Alpine-style road pass, the Bealach na Ba (which I should have cycled, but didn't have my bike). From the broad col on top we set off en famile for Sgurr a'Chaorachain. This peak looks superb from below in Kishorn, and offers one of the great easy rock climbs up the Nose. From the pass, however, it is an easy walk and therefore an ideal family outing. M didn't fancy it, though, so he waited near a lochan with K while E and I continued over a forepeak on the broad ridge towards the obvious flat-topped tower. Great views from here over the deep Coire a'Chaorachain to Beinn Bhan and more distant Beinn Damh, and down to Loch Kishorn. An unusual range, the Applecross hills, characterised by deep eastern cwms and whaleback western slopes. Then we walked back to M and K and went up to the peak with the mast, for views to the Cuillin and Raasey. After an excellent birthday lunch by the sea at the Applecross Inn, we drove the coast road to Torridon and a quick bouldering session.
Area: Applecross
My birthday coincided with the arrival of even better weather: deep blue sky and eye-searing visibility. After a beautiful drive down Glen Torridon, we continued over Britain's only Alpine-style road pass, the Bealach na Ba (which I should have cycled, but didn't have my bike). From the broad col on top we set off en famile for Sgurr a'Chaorachain. This peak looks superb from below in Kishorn, and offers one of the great easy rock climbs up the Nose. From the pass, however, it is an easy walk and therefore an ideal family outing. M didn't fancy it, though, so he waited near a lochan with K while E and I continued over a forepeak on the broad ridge towards the obvious flat-topped tower. Great views from here over the deep Coire a'Chaorachain to Beinn Bhan and more distant Beinn Damh, and down to Loch Kishorn. An unusual range, the Applecross hills, characterised by deep eastern cwms and whaleback western slopes. Then we walked back to M and K and went up to the peak with the mast, for views to the Cuillin and Raasey. After an excellent birthday lunch by the sea at the Applecross Inn, we drove the coast road to Torridon and a quick bouldering session.
Tuesday, May 28, 2013
Beinn Eighe
Peaks: Ruadh-stac Mor (1010m), Coinneach Mhor (976m), Spidean Coire nan Clach (977m), Sgurr Ban (970m), Sgurr nan Fhir Duibhe (963m), Creag Dhubh (909m)
Area: Beinn Eighe, Torridon
This is one of the great Scottish mountain days. Beinn Eighe is an entire massif rather than a single mountain and the standard munro bagging approach doesn't do it justice: I wanted the whole ridge, particularly the less frequented eastern end that we could see from our cottage. It would have been nice to have taken my time, such was the quality and variety of scenery and ridge walking, but as usual a lightweight running approach was more suitable and Kate dropped me off at the Coire Dubh at 7.30am. My aim was to get back to the cottage in Kinlochewe before midday via every peak on the Beinn Eighe ridge without touching a road or seeing another person! I didn't quite achieve this, as I missed Sail Mhor and saw one person on Coire nan Clach, but I did reach our cottage from the nature reserve path direct from Creag Dubh before midday. A superb path through Coire Dubh Mor leads between the steep slopes of Liathach and Sail Mhor to the remote northern corries and great views out over the peaks of Beinn Dearg and Bhaosbeinn. Crystal clear skies and cool breezes as I continued the long run curving east towards the famous Coire Mhic Fhearchair, arguably the most impressive in Scotland. It was indeed superb, although a little frustrating as I would have loved to have done one of the long climbs up the Triple Buttress. Instead, I had to settle for taking a scrambling line left of the main scree couloiur to the col below Ruadh-stac Mor. This was very reminiscent of the Maritime Alps and gave good sustained scrambling by weaving around. I finally gained the main ridge, well over 90 mins after starting out: an indication of the distance. From here back to Kinlochewe was just stunning: one massive gentle run along the huge ridge. I dumped the sac and ran up to the highpoint of Ruadh-stac Mor, then followed the ridge south to mild scrambling up to Coinneach Mhor. The ridge then begins, finally, to head east towards the cottage. It narrows too, giving superb and spectacular running along the crest. Liathach looks spectacular from here. A few little walls give a scrambly approach to the second munro, Spidean Coire nan Clach, where I surprised the only other person seen all day. Then the sun came out for a descent down a large snowfield to the less frequented, but even better, eastern end of the ridge. Good easy scrambling up shattered quartzite led quickly to Sgurr Ban, an Alpine fang from some angles. Then came the fine climax, very steep and quite exposed scree to a deep col with great views to the wild cwm and lake of Tuill Bhain. Above, Sgurr nan Fhir Duibhe gives good scrambling up to an along its shattered crest: the 'black men' of the name are a series of gendarmes, quite loose in places and tricky to negotiate with numerous snow patches. One was very reminiscent of Tower Gap on Glyder Fach. A great finish along the crest, which led to Creag Dubh and a large cornice. From here, I could see Kinlochewe far below and pelted down the screes, flat out, only slowing to negotiate an unexpected and potentially dangerous rock band. Below this, the path flattens out in a little valley with ancient pines. This gave excellent fast running for several km before a kink west allowed me to avoid the village and emerge from the pine woods, as planned, directly opposite our cottage at 11.50am.
Area: Beinn Eighe, Torridon
This is one of the great Scottish mountain days. Beinn Eighe is an entire massif rather than a single mountain and the standard munro bagging approach doesn't do it justice: I wanted the whole ridge, particularly the less frequented eastern end that we could see from our cottage. It would have been nice to have taken my time, such was the quality and variety of scenery and ridge walking, but as usual a lightweight running approach was more suitable and Kate dropped me off at the Coire Dubh at 7.30am. My aim was to get back to the cottage in Kinlochewe before midday via every peak on the Beinn Eighe ridge without touching a road or seeing another person! I didn't quite achieve this, as I missed Sail Mhor and saw one person on Coire nan Clach, but I did reach our cottage from the nature reserve path direct from Creag Dubh before midday. A superb path through Coire Dubh Mor leads between the steep slopes of Liathach and Sail Mhor to the remote northern corries and great views out over the peaks of Beinn Dearg and Bhaosbeinn. Crystal clear skies and cool breezes as I continued the long run curving east towards the famous Coire Mhic Fhearchair, arguably the most impressive in Scotland. It was indeed superb, although a little frustrating as I would have loved to have done one of the long climbs up the Triple Buttress. Instead, I had to settle for taking a scrambling line left of the main scree couloiur to the col below Ruadh-stac Mor. This was very reminiscent of the Maritime Alps and gave good sustained scrambling by weaving around. I finally gained the main ridge, well over 90 mins after starting out: an indication of the distance. From here back to Kinlochewe was just stunning: one massive gentle run along the huge ridge. I dumped the sac and ran up to the highpoint of Ruadh-stac Mor, then followed the ridge south to mild scrambling up to Coinneach Mhor. The ridge then begins, finally, to head east towards the cottage. It narrows too, giving superb and spectacular running along the crest. Liathach looks spectacular from here. A few little walls give a scrambly approach to the second munro, Spidean Coire nan Clach, where I surprised the only other person seen all day. Then the sun came out for a descent down a large snowfield to the less frequented, but even better, eastern end of the ridge. Good easy scrambling up shattered quartzite led quickly to Sgurr Ban, an Alpine fang from some angles. Then came the fine climax, very steep and quite exposed scree to a deep col with great views to the wild cwm and lake of Tuill Bhain. Above, Sgurr nan Fhir Duibhe gives good scrambling up to an along its shattered crest: the 'black men' of the name are a series of gendarmes, quite loose in places and tricky to negotiate with numerous snow patches. One was very reminiscent of Tower Gap on Glyder Fach. A great finish along the crest, which led to Creag Dubh and a large cornice. From here, I could see Kinlochewe far below and pelted down the screes, flat out, only slowing to negotiate an unexpected and potentially dangerous rock band. Below this, the path flattens out in a little valley with ancient pines. This gave excellent fast running for several km before a kink west allowed me to avoid the village and emerge from the pine woods, as planned, directly opposite our cottage at 11.50am.
Monday, May 27, 2013
Beinn Damh
Peaks: Spidean Coire an Laoigh (903m)
Area: Beinn Damh, Torridon
This hill benefits from an isolated position south of Torridon, well away from the more high profile peaks north of the Glen. The day started dry, with a high cloud base, so we'd all walked along the shores of Loch Clair for superb views of Liathach followed by a magical moment as a golden eagle wheeled above Beinn Eighe lit by a sudden shaft of sun. After this, we drove to Shieldaig for coffee and cake in a prolonged heavy shower: all rather unsettled and very different to yesterday's sunshine. For lunch, we walked up the Beinn Damh path from the Torridon hotel through lovely pine woods. A waterfall on the Allt Coire Rhoill made a fine backdrop for our slightly damp picnic. I then continued upwards for another quick hill run. The weather really closed in as soon as I left the woods: heavy rain, brisk winds, and all rather unpleasant as I followed the path up Toll Ban to the obvious broad col below Meall Ghorm. The mist closed in as I ran up the broad NW ridge, skirting the 868m forepeak and following a tenuous path through scree slopes to emerge on another sub-peak. As soon as I gained this top, the mist miraculously cleared giving views over Loch Damh to the west, and down to Shieldaig. For a while, the mist shifted in and out, then dramatically cleared again to the west as the ridge narrowed slightly at a small col: views as far as Applecross this time, but still misty to the east giving photogenic views of the main peak. I got to the summit in 50 mins or so, and the wind then tore all the cloud away leaving brilliant views east to Sgurr Ruadh and the Achnashallech peaks. Finally, I could appreciate what a fine peak Beinn Damh is, typical Torridonian structure, and I decided to give it due respect by making a traverse by descending the steep NE ridge (Stuc Toll nam Biast) to the Drochaid Coire Roill. This goes down rocks to gentle grass, then becomes very steep and hard to read from above. After a few cautious forays too far west, I spied a cairn and located a little path through a series of rocky buttresses which gave an interesting and intricate route down to the Coire Roill. Stupidly, however, in my haste to get back to the family in the hotel I didn't bother to check the map for the location of the stalker's path and just stumbled blindly through the boggy wilderness west of the river. So the subsequent nightmarish aquatic flounder back to the woods was entirely my fault and richly deserved. It didn't take long though, and the family had only just returned to the car when I got back to the hotel.
Area: Beinn Damh, Torridon
This hill benefits from an isolated position south of Torridon, well away from the more high profile peaks north of the Glen. The day started dry, with a high cloud base, so we'd all walked along the shores of Loch Clair for superb views of Liathach followed by a magical moment as a golden eagle wheeled above Beinn Eighe lit by a sudden shaft of sun. After this, we drove to Shieldaig for coffee and cake in a prolonged heavy shower: all rather unsettled and very different to yesterday's sunshine. For lunch, we walked up the Beinn Damh path from the Torridon hotel through lovely pine woods. A waterfall on the Allt Coire Rhoill made a fine backdrop for our slightly damp picnic. I then continued upwards for another quick hill run. The weather really closed in as soon as I left the woods: heavy rain, brisk winds, and all rather unpleasant as I followed the path up Toll Ban to the obvious broad col below Meall Ghorm. The mist closed in as I ran up the broad NW ridge, skirting the 868m forepeak and following a tenuous path through scree slopes to emerge on another sub-peak. As soon as I gained this top, the mist miraculously cleared giving views over Loch Damh to the west, and down to Shieldaig. For a while, the mist shifted in and out, then dramatically cleared again to the west as the ridge narrowed slightly at a small col: views as far as Applecross this time, but still misty to the east giving photogenic views of the main peak. I got to the summit in 50 mins or so, and the wind then tore all the cloud away leaving brilliant views east to Sgurr Ruadh and the Achnashallech peaks. Finally, I could appreciate what a fine peak Beinn Damh is, typical Torridonian structure, and I decided to give it due respect by making a traverse by descending the steep NE ridge (Stuc Toll nam Biast) to the Drochaid Coire Roill. This goes down rocks to gentle grass, then becomes very steep and hard to read from above. After a few cautious forays too far west, I spied a cairn and located a little path through a series of rocky buttresses which gave an interesting and intricate route down to the Coire Roill. Stupidly, however, in my haste to get back to the family in the hotel I didn't bother to check the map for the location of the stalker's path and just stumbled blindly through the boggy wilderness west of the river. So the subsequent nightmarish aquatic flounder back to the woods was entirely my fault and richly deserved. It didn't take long though, and the family had only just returned to the car when I got back to the hotel.
Sunday, May 26, 2013
Liathach
Peaks: Stob a'Coire Liath Mhor (983m), Spidean a'Choire Leith (1055m), Am Fasarinen (927m), Mullach an Rathain (1025m)
Area: Liathach, Torridon
The finest mountain in the British Isles in my opinion, but although I'd driven past it a couple of times in the past, I'd never actually done the full Liathach ridge. It made an obvious early target as it was only 15 minutes drive from the cottage in Kinlochewe, but as ever on these holidays I didn't want to cut into family time, so took an ultra-lightweight running approach (as far as that's possible on a peak like this) while they had lunch. There's certainly no tedious walk-in, as the steep ascent begins immediately from Glen Torridon. A well-constructed path up the side of the Allt an Doire Gharbh leads to a broader upper amphitheatre, the Coire Liath Mhor. The angle eases for a while before steepening as the path curves east to weave up through a series of sandstone walls: nice scrambling, and I enjoyed selecting the most interesting lines up several chimneys to gain the ridge below the sub-peak of Stob a'Coire Liath Mhor. Superb views across the deep trough of the Coire Dubh Mhor to the superb massif of Beinn Eighe (the eastern end of which dominated the view from our cottage window). Beinn Dearg also impressed: for me, this is the best landscape in the UK and, as I had so little previous experience in Torridon (just Alligin and Slioch in 2005) it was a mouth-watering prospect to get to grips with the hills this week. The ridge narrowed immediately, giving exciting jogging to gain the sub-peak. Then the mist rolled away from the main summit of Spidean as I scrambled up snow fields and steep scree to the summit in just over an hour from the road after a 1000m climb. An impressive dominant peak, with superb views over the rest of the ridge. Exposed rubble slopes then led down to a little col and grassy traverse before the famous scrambling section over the Am Fasarinen pinnacles. The sun came out as I began the traverse, warming my hands to perfection at exactly the right time. I stuck to the crest, which gives excellent solid scrambling in a great position above two deep glens: fairly exposed in a few places initially. Some interesting down-climbing led to a gentler section then superb easy scrambling to the top of the highest pinnacle. A little more rock work on the crest leads to a small col then grassy slopes to the top of the second munro, Mullach an Rathain. Superb views from this peak, as the sun broke through even more impressively. Alligin, Dearg, Bhaosbeinn, Ben Damh all sunlit to perfection, as was beautiful Loch Torridon a vertical kilometre below. It had taken two hours to this point, so I had a quick banana and pelted down the screes above Tuill Bhan. This gives a very steep initial descent to good running with numerous tiring twists and turns down to the road: 2:45 road to road, so plenty of time left that afternoon to walk the upper ridge trail from the cottage with K and E. A great start to the holiday.
The finest mountain in the British Isles in my opinion, but although I'd driven past it a couple of times in the past, I'd never actually done the full Liathach ridge. It made an obvious early target as it was only 15 minutes drive from the cottage in Kinlochewe, but as ever on these holidays I didn't want to cut into family time, so took an ultra-lightweight running approach (as far as that's possible on a peak like this) while they had lunch. There's certainly no tedious walk-in, as the steep ascent begins immediately from Glen Torridon. A well-constructed path up the side of the Allt an Doire Gharbh leads to a broader upper amphitheatre, the Coire Liath Mhor. The angle eases for a while before steepening as the path curves east to weave up through a series of sandstone walls: nice scrambling, and I enjoyed selecting the most interesting lines up several chimneys to gain the ridge below the sub-peak of Stob a'Coire Liath Mhor. Superb views across the deep trough of the Coire Dubh Mhor to the superb massif of Beinn Eighe (the eastern end of which dominated the view from our cottage window). Beinn Dearg also impressed: for me, this is the best landscape in the UK and, as I had so little previous experience in Torridon (just Alligin and Slioch in 2005) it was a mouth-watering prospect to get to grips with the hills this week. The ridge narrowed immediately, giving exciting jogging to gain the sub-peak. Then the mist rolled away from the main summit of Spidean as I scrambled up snow fields and steep scree to the summit in just over an hour from the road after a 1000m climb. An impressive dominant peak, with superb views over the rest of the ridge. Exposed rubble slopes then led down to a little col and grassy traverse before the famous scrambling section over the Am Fasarinen pinnacles. The sun came out as I began the traverse, warming my hands to perfection at exactly the right time. I stuck to the crest, which gives excellent solid scrambling in a great position above two deep glens: fairly exposed in a few places initially. Some interesting down-climbing led to a gentler section then superb easy scrambling to the top of the highest pinnacle. A little more rock work on the crest leads to a small col then grassy slopes to the top of the second munro, Mullach an Rathain. Superb views from this peak, as the sun broke through even more impressively. Alligin, Dearg, Bhaosbeinn, Ben Damh all sunlit to perfection, as was beautiful Loch Torridon a vertical kilometre below. It had taken two hours to this point, so I had a quick banana and pelted down the screes above Tuill Bhan. This gives a very steep initial descent to good running with numerous tiring twists and turns down to the road: 2:45 road to road, so plenty of time left that afternoon to walk the upper ridge trail from the cottage with K and E. A great start to the holiday.
Saturday, May 25, 2013
Drumochter Hills
Peaks: Geal Charn (917m), A'Mharconaich (975m)
Area: Drumochter Hills
These peaks rise to the west of the main A9 thoroughfare near the Drumochter Pass. But unlike most of the moorland puddings in these parts, A'Mharconaich is a shapely and eye-catching peak which seemed worth a quick run up to break the long journey to our holiday cottage in Torridon. The day dawned clear and sunny after a night in Stirling, so I ran up Geal Charn from Balsporran while the family had a drink in Dalwhinnie. Good running led to a boggier track up the front of Geal Charn, a dull whaleback summit: I reached the top in 40 minutes or so. Not as much snow as expected (after big falls last week) but still some big fields (melting rapidly). Great views over to remote Ben Alder and superb running down to the broad snowy col above Coire Fhar. From here, another steep pull gains the long flat summit of A'Mharconaich, which fails to fulfil its promise from the road. The summit is at the North-East end, and great running led to this before a wonderful, memorable descent down the perfectly angled NE ridge. Bogs lower down slowed progress back to Balsporran, and Kate had arrived back by the time I arrived - around 90 minutes for the round.
Area: Drumochter Hills
These peaks rise to the west of the main A9 thoroughfare near the Drumochter Pass. But unlike most of the moorland puddings in these parts, A'Mharconaich is a shapely and eye-catching peak which seemed worth a quick run up to break the long journey to our holiday cottage in Torridon. The day dawned clear and sunny after a night in Stirling, so I ran up Geal Charn from Balsporran while the family had a drink in Dalwhinnie. Good running led to a boggier track up the front of Geal Charn, a dull whaleback summit: I reached the top in 40 minutes or so. Not as much snow as expected (after big falls last week) but still some big fields (melting rapidly). Great views over to remote Ben Alder and superb running down to the broad snowy col above Coire Fhar. From here, another steep pull gains the long flat summit of A'Mharconaich, which fails to fulfil its promise from the road. The summit is at the North-East end, and great running led to this before a wonderful, memorable descent down the perfectly angled NE ridge. Bogs lower down slowed progress back to Balsporran, and Kate had arrived back by the time I arrived - around 90 minutes for the round.
Wednesday, May 15, 2013
Montenegro mountain run
After a few days in Bosnia-Herzegovina, found myself with a couple of hours spare time in Kotor. This is a famous and rather stunning spot, on the far side of the large fjord which makes this corner of the Balkans seem like a Mediterranean version of Norway. I jogged through the old town, heading for the hills, and surprisingly quickly located the start of the path up Lovcen. This is the second highest peak in Montenegro (a very mountainous country) and therefore a long day from sea level. I just concentrated on seeing how high up I could get in the time available, and passed a wonderful wild tortoise low on the path (seemed appropriate). Superb, sunny views over the Bay of Kotor - lucky, given that this is supposedly one of the wettest places in Europe due to the unusual topography, up there with Iceland. Subalpine warblers were present in the bushes, and it was with some regret that I ran back down to the old town from my high point.
Tuesday, May 07, 2013
Burbage Skyline
Race: Burbage Skyline fell race (9k/400m)
Time/Position: 47:54 (71st from 357)
Always nice to have an away day race in an alien region, and having spent the afternoon climbing on the gritstone edges fringing the race route from the Fox House pub above Sheffield I was really looking forward to a relaxed blast round this circuit, albeit nursing my injured knee. I always enjoy a 'skyline' race, as the nature of the challenge is so compelling, and have particularly fond memories of Edale and Stretton: which are both a bit longer! It was also nice to be able to relax and start at the back of the field in warm evening sunshine, although such was the amazing size of that field (compared to Welsh races) that I realised I'd been a bit too relaxed as soon as the race started. I was stuck towards the middle of the pack and didn't get a clear run for 20 minutes, by which time I was miles off the pace! The race went up an absurdly narrow path, just walking, then dipped down towards a stream, and up a boggy path to heathery running up to Over Owler then Winyard's Nick. Then came two short climbs, the second quite steep, to gain the highpoint at Higgar Tor: another famous crag. Finally, I had clear ground in front of me, although the knee pain kicked in quite badly for the steep 'plummet' descent down to Burbage Brook and a tight, scenic little valley. We then crossed the river at the road near Burbage North, where I'd just been climbing, before a superb and long gradual (hobbling with knee pain) descent along the bouldery path fringing Burbage Rocks back to the finish as the sun set beautifully over Higgar Tor. Quality of the field was amazing, although perhaps not surprising given proximity to Sheffield. I ran back to the pub then hopped into the car to get to Jon's house in Matlock before 9pm, ready for a 6am drive back to Chester.
Time/Position: 47:54 (71st from 357)
Always nice to have an away day race in an alien region, and having spent the afternoon climbing on the gritstone edges fringing the race route from the Fox House pub above Sheffield I was really looking forward to a relaxed blast round this circuit, albeit nursing my injured knee. I always enjoy a 'skyline' race, as the nature of the challenge is so compelling, and have particularly fond memories of Edale and Stretton: which are both a bit longer! It was also nice to be able to relax and start at the back of the field in warm evening sunshine, although such was the amazing size of that field (compared to Welsh races) that I realised I'd been a bit too relaxed as soon as the race started. I was stuck towards the middle of the pack and didn't get a clear run for 20 minutes, by which time I was miles off the pace! The race went up an absurdly narrow path, just walking, then dipped down towards a stream, and up a boggy path to heathery running up to Over Owler then Winyard's Nick. Then came two short climbs, the second quite steep, to gain the highpoint at Higgar Tor: another famous crag. Finally, I had clear ground in front of me, although the knee pain kicked in quite badly for the steep 'plummet' descent down to Burbage Brook and a tight, scenic little valley. We then crossed the river at the road near Burbage North, where I'd just been climbing, before a superb and long gradual (hobbling with knee pain) descent along the bouldery path fringing Burbage Rocks back to the finish as the sun set beautifully over Higgar Tor. Quality of the field was amazing, although perhaps not surprising given proximity to Sheffield. I ran back to the pub then hopped into the car to get to Jon's house in Matlock before 9pm, ready for a 6am drive back to Chester.
Stanage/Burbage climbing
Crag: Stanage Edge, Peak
Routes: Fire Curtain (VD:sol), Square Buttress Wall (VS 4b:sol), Square Buttress Corner (D:sol), Square Chimney (M:sol), Velcro Arete (HS 4c:sol), Zip Crack (M:sol), Mantelpiece Crack (D:sol), Mantelpiece Buttress (D:sol), Small Crack (VD:sol), Grotto Slab (D:sol), Eeny (HVD:sol), Meeny (HS 4b:sol), Miny Arete (HS 4b:sol), Easy Jamming (HVD:sol)
Crag: Burbage North, Peak
Routes: Little Plumb (D:sol), Cranberry Wall (VD:sol), Cranberry Crack (VD:sol), Steptoe (M:sol)
My old pal Jon, a lifelong Peak resident, had recently been in touch. So I took the opportunity to head across for an evening fell race before meeting him in Matlock. I arrived a bit early, and the sun was shining, so it seemed rude not to take advantage of the fact that my climbing gear was still in the boot from yesterday! Admittedly, getting a few routes in before the race had always been in the back of my mind, but the weather made it even more attractive, so I headed up to the little walls that run to the north of Stanage Popular, and enjoyed myself on some short easy climbs. The corner of Fire Curtain was followed by the more technical Square Buttress Wall up little 4b edges. As ever, my lack of grit schooling shows itself whenever I come here - which hasn't been very often over the years. Still, it was all very enjoyable. I liked Velcro Arete with its 4c start, and the ultra-easy Mantelpiece routes. I went up and down Small Crack from the easy top section, and took in the longer climb of Grotto Slab, which I've done before. Although this section of cliff is less busy than the rest of Stanage, however, it's still far too busy for my taste so I wandered over to the isolated Apparent North section, which immediately appealed to me, if only because you can get a bit of peace. A few short routes concluded with the delightful short crack of Easy Jamming, which does what it says on the tin. I then drove down to Hathersage, got wireless access in a cafe, marked some dissertations over a pint of tea, and then drove back up to Burbage North to do some more short routes (and because the fell race was going to head this way later in the evening and it seemed appropriate). The weather was even better, the warm sun perfectly lighting the crag. I curtailed the visit, however, wanting to preserve at least a bit of energy for the race after a tiring few days, and headed for pre-race coffee and cake at the Millstone pub.
Routes: Fire Curtain (VD:sol), Square Buttress Wall (VS 4b:sol), Square Buttress Corner (D:sol), Square Chimney (M:sol), Velcro Arete (HS 4c:sol), Zip Crack (M:sol), Mantelpiece Crack (D:sol), Mantelpiece Buttress (D:sol), Small Crack (VD:sol), Grotto Slab (D:sol), Eeny (HVD:sol), Meeny (HS 4b:sol), Miny Arete (HS 4b:sol), Easy Jamming (HVD:sol)
Crag: Burbage North, Peak
Routes: Little Plumb (D:sol), Cranberry Wall (VD:sol), Cranberry Crack (VD:sol), Steptoe (M:sol)
My old pal Jon, a lifelong Peak resident, had recently been in touch. So I took the opportunity to head across for an evening fell race before meeting him in Matlock. I arrived a bit early, and the sun was shining, so it seemed rude not to take advantage of the fact that my climbing gear was still in the boot from yesterday! Admittedly, getting a few routes in before the race had always been in the back of my mind, but the weather made it even more attractive, so I headed up to the little walls that run to the north of Stanage Popular, and enjoyed myself on some short easy climbs. The corner of Fire Curtain was followed by the more technical Square Buttress Wall up little 4b edges. As ever, my lack of grit schooling shows itself whenever I come here - which hasn't been very often over the years. Still, it was all very enjoyable. I liked Velcro Arete with its 4c start, and the ultra-easy Mantelpiece routes. I went up and down Small Crack from the easy top section, and took in the longer climb of Grotto Slab, which I've done before. Although this section of cliff is less busy than the rest of Stanage, however, it's still far too busy for my taste so I wandered over to the isolated Apparent North section, which immediately appealed to me, if only because you can get a bit of peace. A few short routes concluded with the delightful short crack of Easy Jamming, which does what it says on the tin. I then drove down to Hathersage, got wireless access in a cafe, marked some dissertations over a pint of tea, and then drove back up to Burbage North to do some more short routes (and because the fell race was going to head this way later in the evening and it seemed appropriate). The weather was even better, the warm sun perfectly lighting the crag. I curtailed the visit, however, wanting to preserve at least a bit of energy for the race after a tiring few days, and headed for pre-race coffee and cake at the Millstone pub.
Monday, May 06, 2013
Cwm Lloer climbing
Crag: Craig Lloer, Ogwen
Routes: The Rib (S 4a:led p.1,3), Kirkus's Route (VS 4a,5a,4a:led p.1,3)
I've spent a lot of time up in this wonderful cwm over the years: indeed Kate and I were here on the first day of the 21st century. I've done all the snow climbs, and walked/run the ridge dozens of times: in short, I like the place, but surprisingly I'd only ticked a couple of the rock climbs and had never done the famous Kirkus route, which takes the most obvious line on the crag. It seemed a perfect choice for Vic and I today, and so it proved: an early start, absolutely stunning spring weather, and an ideal way to avoid the Bank Holiday crowds. The crag is east-facing, and as we rounded the corner after a relaxed and very enjoyable walk-in, our choice was vindicated. Apart from one party on the easy North Ridge, which I did with Steve many years ago, the crag was deserted - but sun-drenched. The clarity of light was superb, and there wasn't a breath of wind as I led up the first pitch of The Rib (selected as a gentle re-introduction to trad mountain routes after an even longer than usual winter lay-off). A tricky move gains the top of a short pinnacle, then another tricky move up a mossy slab to an unfortunate vegetated section. As soon as I saw the next pitch, a beautiful clean 120ft rib snaking upwards, I selfishly regretted the fact that it was Vic's lead! It gave a superb pitch with wonderful gentle climbing in the sunshine: completely unheralded, and therefore unpopular and unpolished. A couple of steeper sections gave pause for thought, but it was generally a romp up positive little holds, neatly sustained at the lowly grade. I led a shorter third up a groove to a step left to the continuation of the rib line. A nice descent down the Y gully and a sunny lunch. It was then time for Kirkus's Route, which takes an easy chimney to an steep little groove which leads to some pleasant slabs. The meat of the route is provided by the second pitch, a seemingly vicious off-width crack which actually goes a little easier than expected. Vic made slow but steady progress up the pitch. It is a little too wide for decent jams, but some small ledges on the walls provide the odd foothold to ease progress. That said, the move to gain the chockstone is still a tricky thrutch, but above this a long reach gains an arete hold left of the crack, which then gives access to the big holds on the top of the right wall. The wind picked up for my enjoyable final pitch, which was still sun-drenched. It traverses right to gain the edge of the arete: up this, to moves left to gain the top of an obvious square groove, then easy slabby climbing in a nice position to the top. A delightful descent back into the sunny cwm, then gently down following the stream to Ogwen - wheatears singing all the way.
Routes: The Rib (S 4a:led p.1,3), Kirkus's Route (VS 4a,5a,4a:led p.1,3)
I've spent a lot of time up in this wonderful cwm over the years: indeed Kate and I were here on the first day of the 21st century. I've done all the snow climbs, and walked/run the ridge dozens of times: in short, I like the place, but surprisingly I'd only ticked a couple of the rock climbs and had never done the famous Kirkus route, which takes the most obvious line on the crag. It seemed a perfect choice for Vic and I today, and so it proved: an early start, absolutely stunning spring weather, and an ideal way to avoid the Bank Holiday crowds. The crag is east-facing, and as we rounded the corner after a relaxed and very enjoyable walk-in, our choice was vindicated. Apart from one party on the easy North Ridge, which I did with Steve many years ago, the crag was deserted - but sun-drenched. The clarity of light was superb, and there wasn't a breath of wind as I led up the first pitch of The Rib (selected as a gentle re-introduction to trad mountain routes after an even longer than usual winter lay-off). A tricky move gains the top of a short pinnacle, then another tricky move up a mossy slab to an unfortunate vegetated section. As soon as I saw the next pitch, a beautiful clean 120ft rib snaking upwards, I selfishly regretted the fact that it was Vic's lead! It gave a superb pitch with wonderful gentle climbing in the sunshine: completely unheralded, and therefore unpopular and unpolished. A couple of steeper sections gave pause for thought, but it was generally a romp up positive little holds, neatly sustained at the lowly grade. I led a shorter third up a groove to a step left to the continuation of the rib line. A nice descent down the Y gully and a sunny lunch. It was then time for Kirkus's Route, which takes an easy chimney to an steep little groove which leads to some pleasant slabs. The meat of the route is provided by the second pitch, a seemingly vicious off-width crack which actually goes a little easier than expected. Vic made slow but steady progress up the pitch. It is a little too wide for decent jams, but some small ledges on the walls provide the odd foothold to ease progress. That said, the move to gain the chockstone is still a tricky thrutch, but above this a long reach gains an arete hold left of the crack, which then gives access to the big holds on the top of the right wall. The wind picked up for my enjoyable final pitch, which was still sun-drenched. It traverses right to gain the edge of the arete: up this, to moves left to gain the top of an obvious square groove, then easy slabby climbing in a nice position to the top. A delightful descent back into the sunny cwm, then gently down following the stream to Ogwen - wheatears singing all the way.
Saturday, May 04, 2013
Llangynhafal Loop
Race: Llangynhafal Loop fell race (7.6km/533m)
Time/Position: 45:17 (20th from 140)
Still tired after the marathons, with a damaged right knee, and no fell races since November: I thought it prudent to start well back! Although I struggled greatly on the descents with my knee, however, this could have been worse and my time was less than a minute slower than last year. I picked up a few places on the fast, flat valley running up to Nant y Ne, and continued the slow plod up the valley towards the gully. Felt reasonably good on the climbs, which was surprising given the road focus of the last few months. But suffered on the descent from Moel Famau, and continued to suffer on the peaks and troughs of the ridge over Dywyll. If memory serves, I went over the top of the final climb last year in second or third place: this year, with a much stronger field and me a minute down, was a different story. A painful and very slow final descent - after which I carried on jogging back to the village to meet Kate at the pub.
Time/Position: 45:17 (20th from 140)
Still tired after the marathons, with a damaged right knee, and no fell races since November: I thought it prudent to start well back! Although I struggled greatly on the descents with my knee, however, this could have been worse and my time was less than a minute slower than last year. I picked up a few places on the fast, flat valley running up to Nant y Ne, and continued the slow plod up the valley towards the gully. Felt reasonably good on the climbs, which was surprising given the road focus of the last few months. But suffered on the descent from Moel Famau, and continued to suffer on the peaks and troughs of the ridge over Dywyll. If memory serves, I went over the top of the final climb last year in second or third place: this year, with a much stronger field and me a minute down, was a different story. A painful and very slow final descent - after which I carried on jogging back to the village to meet Kate at the pub.
Thursday, May 02, 2013
Penmaenhead climbing
Crag: Penmaenhead, Colwyn Bay
Routes: Intruder (f5+:led), Go with the Flow (f6a:led), Dead Moggy Syndrome (f6b:sec), The Double Helix (f6a+:sec), Tan y Lan Kids (f5:sec), Big up the Lizard (f5+:sec), Broken Blackbird (f5:sec), Steak Slice (f5:led)
An ideal evening venue, especially in this week's beautiful spring weather. West-facing, so the climbing was in the warm evening sunshine throughout, a nice contrast to previous visits to this crag which have almost all been freezing and sunless. I kicked off by leading the steep line of Intruder at f5+, which looks pretty unpleasant and dirty from below but which is actually a good route. It is steep, though, and not an ideal warm-up given my lack of recent climbing. It goes up blocky rock to a horizontal break, then gets even steeper up a series of small shelves on big holds: all quite pumpy for the grade. Mick and I then moved further left, where I led the excellent Go with the Flow - theoretically a grade harder, but quite slabby and technical (and very low in the grade). I've done it before, it's one of the best climbs here, up delicate flowstone features involving little pinched stalactites and fingery climbing up small pockets - delightful in the warm sunshine. The 6b to its left was tough and bouldery initially, quite sustained, and I finished rightwards. Likewise the 6a+ to its right is also much harder with a puzzling crux which is easy to get wrong. The sun began to drop a little, but continued to light up the face as we finished off with some easier routes, most of which I've done before.
Routes: Intruder (f5+:led), Go with the Flow (f6a:led), Dead Moggy Syndrome (f6b:sec), The Double Helix (f6a+:sec), Tan y Lan Kids (f5:sec), Big up the Lizard (f5+:sec), Broken Blackbird (f5:sec), Steak Slice (f5:led)
An ideal evening venue, especially in this week's beautiful spring weather. West-facing, so the climbing was in the warm evening sunshine throughout, a nice contrast to previous visits to this crag which have almost all been freezing and sunless. I kicked off by leading the steep line of Intruder at f5+, which looks pretty unpleasant and dirty from below but which is actually a good route. It is steep, though, and not an ideal warm-up given my lack of recent climbing. It goes up blocky rock to a horizontal break, then gets even steeper up a series of small shelves on big holds: all quite pumpy for the grade. Mick and I then moved further left, where I led the excellent Go with the Flow - theoretically a grade harder, but quite slabby and technical (and very low in the grade). I've done it before, it's one of the best climbs here, up delicate flowstone features involving little pinched stalactites and fingery climbing up small pockets - delightful in the warm sunshine. The 6b to its left was tough and bouldery initially, quite sustained, and I finished rightwards. Likewise the 6a+ to its right is also much harder with a puzzling crux which is easy to get wrong. The sun began to drop a little, but continued to light up the face as we finished off with some easier routes, most of which I've done before.
Tuesday, April 30, 2013
Clwydian Mountain Biking
MTB Route: Cilcain Short Loop
The usual consensus is that 48 hours post-marathon is the low point, so it seemed a good idea to loosen my legs by cycling to and from work today. Due to numerous roadworks, this ended up being much longer than the usual 20 mile round trip - but certainly relaxed the limbs. A beautiful evening seemed in prospect, so I managed to continue the cycling theme by persuading gaming enthusiast M to turn off the Xbox and do the short Cilcain mountain bike loop from the viewpoint car park. Superb spring weather, at last. No wind, blue skies and a nice gentle climb up the drover's road to the ridge: good views of Aran and Arenig. M found it a little tough, but the hills are wonderfully dry underfoot at present, perfect MTB conditions, and he loved the fast grassy descent down the bridleway and track to the Pump House. He wasn't so keen on the climb back up, so I had to get the car and pick him up!
The usual consensus is that 48 hours post-marathon is the low point, so it seemed a good idea to loosen my legs by cycling to and from work today. Due to numerous roadworks, this ended up being much longer than the usual 20 mile round trip - but certainly relaxed the limbs. A beautiful evening seemed in prospect, so I managed to continue the cycling theme by persuading gaming enthusiast M to turn off the Xbox and do the short Cilcain mountain bike loop from the viewpoint car park. Superb spring weather, at last. No wind, blue skies and a nice gentle climb up the drover's road to the ridge: good views of Aran and Arenig. M found it a little tough, but the hills are wonderfully dry underfoot at present, perfect MTB conditions, and he loved the fast grassy descent down the bridleway and track to the Pump House. He wasn't so keen on the climb back up, so I had to get the car and pick him up!
Sunday, April 28, 2013
Manchester Marathon
Race: Manchester Marathon
Time/Position: 2:54:01 (78th from 7000)
Some way outside my 2:49 target time, but still a PB by almost four minutes - so it would seem churlish to be too disappointed. Boston was perhaps a little too close, less than 13 days, despite holding back so much with a view to a serious PB attempt today. But the main problem was the same as ever, the sticking point that that has afflicted every one of the 17 marathons I've done: not enough 18-20 milers in training. The event was a lot better than I'd expected, however, even if it was rather distasteful to have to park underneath the Fergie statue at Old Trafford (and pay £9 for the privilege). Perhaps not the most scenic or atmospheric of courses, but the crowds were friendly and supportive, and the whole event had a nice local feel - and could perhaps become a decent northern alternative to London. For me, it was a huge advantage to sleep in my own bed and, even more importantly, to be in my own bath by 1pm! I started out at target 6:30 per mile pace, keeping this churning over quite precisely and comfortably. Went through 10k in 39:59, got in with a decent group through the leafy streets of Sale, which sadly started breaking up at 9 miles. The halfway point comes in Altrincham, and I went through bang on target in 1:24:30. After a gel, I felt even better on the return leg (at least initially!) and enjoyed watching the waves of runners coming through on the other side of the road. But at around 19 miles I began to suffer, the inevitable result of my lack of training, and really hit a low point as we entered bleak open fields near Flixton. The headwind, which I'd worried about all day, became a problem here and I couldn't stay with any other runners. My situation was semi-desperate for a while, but at least I'm no stranger to this kind of pain, so managed to steady my pace and luckily grabbed a gel in Urmston at 21 miles. This allowed me to just about resume my sluggish progress back towards Stretford. Chip times were a little dodgy: my watch had me at 2:53:56 or so, whilst my chip time came out initially as 2:52:30, which was definitely wrong!
Time/Position: 2:54:01 (78th from 7000)
Some way outside my 2:49 target time, but still a PB by almost four minutes - so it would seem churlish to be too disappointed. Boston was perhaps a little too close, less than 13 days, despite holding back so much with a view to a serious PB attempt today. But the main problem was the same as ever, the sticking point that that has afflicted every one of the 17 marathons I've done: not enough 18-20 milers in training. The event was a lot better than I'd expected, however, even if it was rather distasteful to have to park underneath the Fergie statue at Old Trafford (and pay £9 for the privilege). Perhaps not the most scenic or atmospheric of courses, but the crowds were friendly and supportive, and the whole event had a nice local feel - and could perhaps become a decent northern alternative to London. For me, it was a huge advantage to sleep in my own bed and, even more importantly, to be in my own bath by 1pm! I started out at target 6:30 per mile pace, keeping this churning over quite precisely and comfortably. Went through 10k in 39:59, got in with a decent group through the leafy streets of Sale, which sadly started breaking up at 9 miles. The halfway point comes in Altrincham, and I went through bang on target in 1:24:30. After a gel, I felt even better on the return leg (at least initially!) and enjoyed watching the waves of runners coming through on the other side of the road. But at around 19 miles I began to suffer, the inevitable result of my lack of training, and really hit a low point as we entered bleak open fields near Flixton. The headwind, which I'd worried about all day, became a problem here and I couldn't stay with any other runners. My situation was semi-desperate for a while, but at least I'm no stranger to this kind of pain, so managed to steady my pace and luckily grabbed a gel in Urmston at 21 miles. This allowed me to just about resume my sluggish progress back towards Stretford. Chip times were a little dodgy: my watch had me at 2:53:56 or so, whilst my chip time came out initially as 2:52:30, which was definitely wrong!
Wednesday, April 24, 2013
Wrexham Border League
Race: Wrexham 4m+ (Border League race 7)
Time/Position: 22:05 (10th from 274 [3rd V40])
The climax of another league season, and it was as tight as ever: just a few points separating 2nd from 4th in my category. The final race of the season is usually the most competitive of all, so it was a big surprise to record my first ever top 10 finish (after over 40 BL races) given that my target was just to maintain this season's run of top 20 finishes. I did feel good for some reason, around this very familiar one lap circuit of the lanes east of Wrexham: the best I've felt at a race for months and months, come to think of it. Felt comfortable at around 5:25 per mile, and kept a reasonable pace churning over, picking up numerous places right through to the line. The results were unfortunately wrong at the presentation afterwards, as this final performance hadn't been recorded for the male vets! But eventually I ended up 2nd V40 for the season, same as last year, and 6th overall. Finished with 91 points, which is my lowest total in seven or so years of competing in the league.
Time/Position: 22:05 (10th from 274 [3rd V40])
The climax of another league season, and it was as tight as ever: just a few points separating 2nd from 4th in my category. The final race of the season is usually the most competitive of all, so it was a big surprise to record my first ever top 10 finish (after over 40 BL races) given that my target was just to maintain this season's run of top 20 finishes. I did feel good for some reason, around this very familiar one lap circuit of the lanes east of Wrexham: the best I've felt at a race for months and months, come to think of it. Felt comfortable at around 5:25 per mile, and kept a reasonable pace churning over, picking up numerous places right through to the line. The results were unfortunately wrong at the presentation afterwards, as this final performance hadn't been recorded for the male vets! But eventually I ended up 2nd V40 for the season, same as last year, and 6th overall. Finished with 91 points, which is my lowest total in seven or so years of competing in the league.
Monday, April 15, 2013
Boston Marathon
Race: Boston Marathon
Time/Position: 3:15:16 (4783 from 23000)
The oldest marathon in the world by a considerable margin, and the only one that requires a qualifying time. It has always been the US marathon that most interested me, so I thought I would use last year's sub-3 run at London to get a place last September. I had no intention of racing today, but wanted to use it as a final (rather extravagant) long brisk run before going flat-out for a sub 2.50 PB in Manchester at the end of this month. As a result, I could enjoy myself the day before, walking around Boston and soaking up the ambience despite continuing jet lag. It's a unique and historic point-to-point course through a series of lovely New England towns, with a fantastic atmosphere which started the moment I got off the train from New York on Sunday (I particularly liked the fact that the race was so closely linked with local Massachusetts identity). A one-hour bus journey takes all the runners from Boston to the start at Hopkinton, where we all relaxed in the early morning sunshine. The race itself was fantastically enjoyable - freed from any pressure to go for a time, I just jogged gently along the classic course and soaked it up as a 'tourist': the only problem was that my qualifying time put me near the front in Wave 1, so I had to concentrate on not holding up the other runners. From Hopkinton it goes very gently downhill through Ashland and Framingham to the famous 'scream tunnel' of college girls in Wellesley, which you can hear almost a mile away. I went through half in 1:33 or so, which was a tad quicker than I'd intended. The crowds built throughout, and all the towns were delightful typical New England settlements. After Newton, a series of hills build up to the infamous 'Heartbreak Hill' at the 20 mile point. If I'd been going for a time, this would have been extremely unpleasant. As it was, it just made for a bit of variety with superb crowd support. My Welsh flags got lots of attention from the crowd, and the support got even better as we entered Brookline and saw Central Boston getting closer. Then it was through the suburbs, past the Red Sox stadium at Fenway Park - with a match in progress, as is traditional on Patriot's Day - then down Beacon Street to the finish on Boylston. It all reminded me a bit of when I did London in 2010, again consciously taking it easy before going for a later PB: marathons are so much more fun when you're not eyeballs out! I carried on jogging through the finish and back to the hostel on Stuart Street, and was enjoying a reuben and some craft ale in the wonderful Jakob Wirth bar next door when I heard the dreadful news about the explosions.
Time/Position: 3:15:16 (4783 from 23000)
The oldest marathon in the world by a considerable margin, and the only one that requires a qualifying time. It has always been the US marathon that most interested me, so I thought I would use last year's sub-3 run at London to get a place last September. I had no intention of racing today, but wanted to use it as a final (rather extravagant) long brisk run before going flat-out for a sub 2.50 PB in Manchester at the end of this month. As a result, I could enjoy myself the day before, walking around Boston and soaking up the ambience despite continuing jet lag. It's a unique and historic point-to-point course through a series of lovely New England towns, with a fantastic atmosphere which started the moment I got off the train from New York on Sunday (I particularly liked the fact that the race was so closely linked with local Massachusetts identity). A one-hour bus journey takes all the runners from Boston to the start at Hopkinton, where we all relaxed in the early morning sunshine. The race itself was fantastically enjoyable - freed from any pressure to go for a time, I just jogged gently along the classic course and soaked it up as a 'tourist': the only problem was that my qualifying time put me near the front in Wave 1, so I had to concentrate on not holding up the other runners. From Hopkinton it goes very gently downhill through Ashland and Framingham to the famous 'scream tunnel' of college girls in Wellesley, which you can hear almost a mile away. I went through half in 1:33 or so, which was a tad quicker than I'd intended. The crowds built throughout, and all the towns were delightful typical New England settlements. After Newton, a series of hills build up to the infamous 'Heartbreak Hill' at the 20 mile point. If I'd been going for a time, this would have been extremely unpleasant. As it was, it just made for a bit of variety with superb crowd support. My Welsh flags got lots of attention from the crowd, and the support got even better as we entered Brookline and saw Central Boston getting closer. Then it was through the suburbs, past the Red Sox stadium at Fenway Park - with a match in progress, as is traditional on Patriot's Day - then down Beacon Street to the finish on Boylston. It all reminded me a bit of when I did London in 2010, again consciously taking it easy before going for a later PB: marathons are so much more fun when you're not eyeballs out! I carried on jogging through the finish and back to the hostel on Stuart Street, and was enjoying a reuben and some craft ale in the wonderful Jakob Wirth bar next door when I heard the dreadful news about the explosions.
Saturday, April 13, 2013
Central Park run
I've always fancied running around Central Park first thing in the morning, so after flying into NYC midday yesterday, I had a 6am breakfast at a classic diner then jogged up Lexington/Park avenue as the sun lit the tops of the skyscrapers. A big relief after the cold, wet and windy weather I'd arrived in yesterday. I jogged through the park, enjoying the contrast of the towers rising above the verdant greenery, then stopped for a few hours birding in the Ramble. Peak spring migration: highlights included purple finch, pine siskin, carolina wren, northern cardinal and many more. Then jogged through the park past hundreds of other runners to the Upper West side, to get the subway to South Ferry and Staten Island.
Wednesday, April 10, 2013
Deeside Border League
Race: Deeside 5.5m (Border League race 6)
Time/Position: 32:14 (20th from 291 [4th V40])
Slightly longer than previous BL races around these tracks and roads, which made it a bit more enjoyable. I set off quite slowly and felt a bit better than I had on the Spring 5 last week, although this was still my worst finishing position of the entire season. I concentrated on catching up with Jez during the first half of the race, and we worked quite well together, gaining a few places before he sprinted away from me in the last 200m. I just about maintained my record of top 20 finishes in every race this season, although there is no doubt that I've got progressively slower!
Time/Position: 32:14 (20th from 291 [4th V40])
Slightly longer than previous BL races around these tracks and roads, which made it a bit more enjoyable. I set off quite slowly and felt a bit better than I had on the Spring 5 last week, although this was still my worst finishing position of the entire season. I concentrated on catching up with Jez during the first half of the race, and we worked quite well together, gaining a few places before he sprinted away from me in the last 200m. I just about maintained my record of top 20 finishes in every race this season, although there is no doubt that I've got progressively slower!
Sunday, April 07, 2013
Kinnerton-Llangollen run
A family pub lunch booked in Llangollen, and me needing to get one last long run in before the forthcoming Boston and Manchester marathons: serendipity! The obvious response was to run there from home in a reversal of the route I'd done with Dave in preparation for the Icelandic ultra marathon back in 2008. It was a lovely outing, in cold but refreshingly still conditions of milky sunshine. Left Kinnerton for the gentle climb up to Hope followed by the savage triple kick climb from Abermorddu to Cymau. From here, Minera moor loomed ahead: clearly under a great deal of snow, and I began to suspect that the road might be closed! I descended to Ffrith, then up the bridleway towards Bwlchgwyn. This was blocked in 15-20 places by trees that had fallen over under the weight of snow. A mixture of slush, ice, running water and snow underfoot - much branch vaulting and limboing to make progress. With some relief, I gained the little lanes leading to a snowy Bwlchgwyn: several feet of snow have been lying in places here for over a fortnight now. Down towards Coedpoeth then up to Gegin and Minera and finally the start of the climb up to the moor on the World's End road. As I suspected, the road was closed, and after a mile or two of tarmac I realised why: it was choked with snow. Cue an interesting 4 or 5k section across the moor, unable to see the path of the road, forced to locate myself by the masts on Cyrn y Brain and other landmarks. Mercifully, the snow was still relatively solid at this time in the morning, although deep drifts and some surface breaking made the going pretty tough at times - good for the tan, though, with warm sunshine giving the moor an Alpine feel. The deep snow continued across the entire moor and down to World's End: it will surely be some time before this road is open. As soon as I gained the Eglwyseg valley floor, however, the road had been cleared. Superb running along this towards Dinas Bran and the final long descent to Llangollen: glorious views of the valley below. Met the family in town in good time for lunch (by strange coincidence, I'd also run from home to the Grosvenor Arms in Aldford last Thursday).
Friday, April 05, 2013
Idwal ice climbing/Y Garn mountaineering/Famau run
Crag/Peak: Cwm Idwal/Y Garn, Glyderau
Routes: Central Route (wIII 3,3,2:led p.2), Banana Gully (wI:descent)
The truly extraordinary winter conditions continue in Eryri, so it was great to have another opportunity to briefly get out there during my Easter break - shame I was a little restricted by various embarrassing injuries. Mick was free too, but only for the morning, so we started early from Ogwen and ploughed up to the crags in superb conditions of gradually rising cloud and relatively light easterly winds by recent standards. Central Route is one of the few remaining gaps for me in terms of the accessible ice climbs in Idwal, so Mick led up the long shallow ice groove which gives the climb its identity (my arm and neck still aching after 'whiplash'). This is a good pitch, more open than neighbouring climbs South Gully and Chicane Gully, albeit not as memorable as either of these. In contrast to Face Route on Monday, however, progress was eased by the amount of traffic this climb has had over recent days: hooks possible, and some precise little steps kicked out in places. A steepish initial section of water ice leads to an easing on good neve, before another steep but excellent section of quite brittle ice goes up to a ledge and screw belay. I led off up the second pitch, which takes in a few more steps of enjoyable water ice before easing into a snowy gangway. This gently spirals off to the left, above South Gully, and I ran the rope out to belay on screws on another water ice step. Mick led up a final slabby section of ice and we split up above the drifts on top of South Gully: Mick descended and I ploughed up to the ridge of Y Garn in the familiar strong easterlies (back again!) but also some hints of sunshine: the line of Monday's outing, Face Route on Cyrn Las, is particularly notable from here. At the summit, I got out of the wind for lunch, and enjoyed a superb show as the cloud lifted from every peak and the sun started to peek through. As I descended the NE (Banana) ridge, two chaps emerged from Banana Gully. They reported nice neve conditions, so I traversed across to the gully from the ridge. This was pseudo-Alpine in the sunshine: deep, crisp neve, and absorbing movement across to the gully. This gave an excellent descent, and was particularly enjoyable as Banana Gully was the first winter route I ever did - with Tim in 1989 perhaps? The snow wasn't particularly consolidated at first, but wasn't too bad, and got better as the gully narrows a bit as it curves. Cwm Clyd is beautiful in these conditions, under metres of snow with the lake frozen solid. After a quick bite I descended quickly to Llyn Idwal, removed crampons and jogged to the car. After the long drive to Cadole via a coffee in Mold, I joined the Friday night run up Famau: a mixture of drifts and slush, but it was nice to look across to a sunlit Ogwen (and Y Garn!) from the summit in the same day, and the descent remains snow-covered and very good fun. As usual after this kind of day, I bonked on the steps above Loggerheads and was virtually walking by the time I got back to the pub.
Routes: Central Route (wIII 3,3,2:led p.2), Banana Gully (wI:descent)
The truly extraordinary winter conditions continue in Eryri, so it was great to have another opportunity to briefly get out there during my Easter break - shame I was a little restricted by various embarrassing injuries. Mick was free too, but only for the morning, so we started early from Ogwen and ploughed up to the crags in superb conditions of gradually rising cloud and relatively light easterly winds by recent standards. Central Route is one of the few remaining gaps for me in terms of the accessible ice climbs in Idwal, so Mick led up the long shallow ice groove which gives the climb its identity (my arm and neck still aching after 'whiplash'). This is a good pitch, more open than neighbouring climbs South Gully and Chicane Gully, albeit not as memorable as either of these. In contrast to Face Route on Monday, however, progress was eased by the amount of traffic this climb has had over recent days: hooks possible, and some precise little steps kicked out in places. A steepish initial section of water ice leads to an easing on good neve, before another steep but excellent section of quite brittle ice goes up to a ledge and screw belay. I led off up the second pitch, which takes in a few more steps of enjoyable water ice before easing into a snowy gangway. This gently spirals off to the left, above South Gully, and I ran the rope out to belay on screws on another water ice step. Mick led up a final slabby section of ice and we split up above the drifts on top of South Gully: Mick descended and I ploughed up to the ridge of Y Garn in the familiar strong easterlies (back again!) but also some hints of sunshine: the line of Monday's outing, Face Route on Cyrn Las, is particularly notable from here. At the summit, I got out of the wind for lunch, and enjoyed a superb show as the cloud lifted from every peak and the sun started to peek through. As I descended the NE (Banana) ridge, two chaps emerged from Banana Gully. They reported nice neve conditions, so I traversed across to the gully from the ridge. This was pseudo-Alpine in the sunshine: deep, crisp neve, and absorbing movement across to the gully. This gave an excellent descent, and was particularly enjoyable as Banana Gully was the first winter route I ever did - with Tim in 1989 perhaps? The snow wasn't particularly consolidated at first, but wasn't too bad, and got better as the gully narrows a bit as it curves. Cwm Clyd is beautiful in these conditions, under metres of snow with the lake frozen solid. After a quick bite I descended quickly to Llyn Idwal, removed crampons and jogged to the car. After the long drive to Cadole via a coffee in Mold, I joined the Friday night run up Famau: a mixture of drifts and slush, but it was nice to look across to a sunlit Ogwen (and Y Garn!) from the summit in the same day, and the descent remains snow-covered and very good fun. As usual after this kind of day, I bonked on the steps above Loggerheads and was virtually walking by the time I got back to the pub.
Wednesday, April 03, 2013
Chester Spring 5
Race: Chester Spring 5m
Time/Position: 28:46 (23rd from 295)
A little tired going into this race, still suffering after Sunday's long run and Monday's full day of winter climbing. Worse, I'd sustained whiplash injuries in an absurd sledging accident! This was always going to be a bit of a struggle as a result, but it was still a very disappointing outing. I went through 2 miles in 10:50, the quickest part of the course, feeling quite good and aiming for sub 28m. I know every inch of this course, as it is a few hundred metres away from my office and a regular lunchtime training run for me, but despite this I still blew completely after the hill at 3 miles. The last two miles were a real struggle as a result and I lost a lot of time and places.
Time/Position: 28:46 (23rd from 295)
A little tired going into this race, still suffering after Sunday's long run and Monday's full day of winter climbing. Worse, I'd sustained whiplash injuries in an absurd sledging accident! This was always going to be a bit of a struggle as a result, but it was still a very disappointing outing. I went through 2 miles in 10:50, the quickest part of the course, feeling quite good and aiming for sub 28m. I know every inch of this course, as it is a few hundred metres away from my office and a regular lunchtime training run for me, but despite this I still blew completely after the hill at 3 miles. The last two miles were a real struggle as a result and I lost a lot of time and places.
Monday, April 01, 2013
Cyrn Las winter climbing
Crag: Cyrn Las, Llanberis
Routes: Gwter Fawr (II:sol), Face Route (IV 4,3,3,3,3,2:led p.3,5,6), Cyrn Las Ridge (I/II:sol)
Unprecedented ice climbing conditions for the time of year, so it was good to finally get the chance to take advantage on April Fool's Day. The Pass was almost deserted as we started the walk-in under disappointingly leaden skies - the ferocious easterly still blowing hard - perhaps some explanation for the lack of crowds on Easter Monday. We were both tired, me after yesterday's 21 mile run, Vic after a triathlon, so took almost an hour to reach the crag. All very atmospheric, though, with huge drifts in places and the ice-streaked cliffs of Cyrn Las towering above. Indeed, apart from the winter trade route of Sergeants Gully, I'd only previously visited this crag for the ultra classic rock climb of Main Wall, 20 years ago. Our chosen line of Face Route is immediately obvious, even from the road, a series of linked icefalls leading to a snowfield and exit gully. It looked good and lengthy, and we moved up easy slopes to gain the start of Gwter Fawr, a simple but spectacular grade I climb that traverses the face via a narrow gangway - rather like a more exposed version of Jack's Rake. It was very icy today, and we enjoyed good sport taking a few steeper variants until we arrived higher up Gwter Fawr at a belay. I then followed Vic up the superb first pitch of Face Route: solid water ice up to a steep bulge, which was solid grade IV throughout but went a little more easily than it looked, even with my archaic tools! It eased a little after an exposed move round the bulge, and led to a more delicate traverse on frozen turf and snow-ice. The second pitch, conversely, was harder than it looked and remained more Vic's territory than mine: slabby water ice, a little more fragile, and quite sustained, frontpointing made harder by fierce gusts of wind, and very little evidence of previous ascents. From here I led a short third up to a niche before Vic led through up another steep little pitch to an easing. The route wasn't over, however, and I led a long pitch up a series of easy slabby little walls, just an inclined snowfield really, to gain the bottom of the long exit gully. This was a very nice contrast to the climbing below: a classic gully, much easier, but atmospheric with great rock architecture and tremendous views across the valley. An icy chockstone was fun, and a couple of other short bulges led to a final easy angled exit funnel. After descending to free a jammed rope, we continued up the top section of the fine Cyrn Las ridge: a superbly contrasting finale, making this long route even more varied, a splendid 1000ft blend of steep technical water ice, easy snow climbing, exposed gangways, atmospheric gullies, and a narrow Alpine ridge. And it had seen very little traffic, which added to the pleasure. Surprisingly good snow conditions on the ridge (in comparison to last Tuesday, for instance!) but quite challenging: as was the walk along to Cwm Glas in a very strong and very cold wind. It was hard to make progress in places, and we took some time to locate the complex descent, which weaves through troublesome ground right of Parsley Fern gully to gain the base of Cwm Glas: a glacial bowl of deep snow, completely deserted. From here, a mixture of glissading and jogging got us down to the Pass in half an hour or so.
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