Crag: Lliwedd Bychan (Yr Arddu)
Routes: Heather Gully (D:sol), Central Route (VD:sh), Orthin (HS 4b:sh), Eastern Route (S:sol/sh), Right Gully Rim (D:sol), Left Gully Rim (D:sol)
I last drove up the single track road from Gwynant to Nantmor in 1989, but only remembered quite how narrow it is when I was an irreversible mile in to it. After lengthy shenanigans and a ludicrous encounter with a steam roller I arrived at Coed Dolfnog south of Buarthau and began what I suspected might be a tenuous walk-in to the somewhat obscure crags of Yr Arddu. The narrow path, marked on the map, is navigable initially through the superb oak woodland. Above this, however, the wet summer had rendered it essentially impassable. I followed the wall above the woods first, but gave up in extraordinary neck-deep ferns. I've experienced this kind of thing all too often, however, so persisted higher up the western side of Yr Arddu. It got worse as I tried to contour round to the obvious wall that heads east to the crags: heather, bogs, ferns, thistles. I lost my water bottle in the chaos: cue dehydration to add to the fun. It was as bad as anything I've experienced in a lifetime of this sort of nonsense, including the northern Rhinogs, and my legs were still a bit tired after yesterday's race. After a steep climb, much blood and torn clothing, the terrain got better (just bog and waist deep ferns) and a tiny path led to Lliwedd Bychan. This gave a splendid couple of hours entertainment, a 30m slabby crag ideal for the solo wanderer with superb views to Cnicht, Moelwynion and Traeth Lafan: perfect weather, warm sunshine and crystal clear clarity throughout. The sun had just left the face as I plotted my way up the delightfully simple Heather Gully, then abbed off for Central Route (partially shunted), which takes a gently sustained line up the face on sharp little holds. Good consistent pitch at the grade. Orthin was a tad more technical, with good 4b moves over a bulge at the top, then I moved the backrope a little. Eastern Route is probably the most obvious actual line: taking a slab to a shallow corner, then steeper moves trending left to the top. Two easy solos completed the fun. My plan was then to run up Cnicht, but the walk-in (and the fact that I didn't start until nearly 4pm having spent most of the day at work) put paid to that. Instead I bushwhacked my way out, shedding more blood and sweat, and plunged my head into the stream above the woods, drinking deeply with huge relief. After a wash in the River Nantmor next to the car, I retired for fish and chips in Penrhyndaedraeth then a peaceful night next to Llyn Dubach in the moors between Llan Ffestiniog and Penmachno, the ancestral home. A full moon rising over Arenig and beautiful pink sunset made up for the midges.
Monday, August 15, 2016
Sunday, August 14, 2016
Two Hillforts race
Race: Two Hillforts fell race (9.3m/2000ft)
Time/Position: 71.04 (8th from 104)
Since this race was launched a couple of years ago, I assumed it was a version of the now defunct Tavern Trail or Lletty. It actually takes quite a different route around the northern end of the Clwydian range and is a very runnable route. So runnable, in fact, that I went off far too quickly, thinking any remaining road pace might push me up the field. In reality, I couldn't hold the pace and blew as soon as the route steepened below Pen y Cloddiau. From Llandyrnog, the route goes across fields to the road taken by the Vale of Clwyd 10k. This continues much further up before breaking off for a steep path that I couldn't remember running before. This takes a direct line to the Pen y Cloddiau car park. Superb level running around the side of that hill before a short, steep climb gains the summit. I know this area well, and love the descent down OD towards Moel Arthur. I was in fifth place at this point, but knew the game was up as we started the climb to Arthur, paying the price for the quick start and lack of recent speed work. From the top of Moel Arthur, a very long but not too steep descent to Llandyrnog awaits, taking the road and long contouring bridleway. Theoretically ideal, but I was still blowing badly and really struggled: ended up being passed by three and finishing eighth.
Time/Position: 71.04 (8th from 104)
Since this race was launched a couple of years ago, I assumed it was a version of the now defunct Tavern Trail or Lletty. It actually takes quite a different route around the northern end of the Clwydian range and is a very runnable route. So runnable, in fact, that I went off far too quickly, thinking any remaining road pace might push me up the field. In reality, I couldn't hold the pace and blew as soon as the route steepened below Pen y Cloddiau. From Llandyrnog, the route goes across fields to the road taken by the Vale of Clwyd 10k. This continues much further up before breaking off for a steep path that I couldn't remember running before. This takes a direct line to the Pen y Cloddiau car park. Superb level running around the side of that hill before a short, steep climb gains the summit. I know this area well, and love the descent down OD towards Moel Arthur. I was in fifth place at this point, but knew the game was up as we started the climb to Arthur, paying the price for the quick start and lack of recent speed work. From the top of Moel Arthur, a very long but not too steep descent to Llandyrnog awaits, taking the road and long contouring bridleway. Theoretically ideal, but I was still blowing badly and really struggled: ended up being passed by three and finishing eighth.
Friday, August 12, 2016
Minera climbing
Crag: Minera Quarry
Routes: Easy Grooves (f4c:led), The Quartz Slab (f6a:led), Thin Grey Wall (f6c:led), Narrow Arete (f6a+:led), Hard Start (f6a+:sec), Quartz Wall variant (f6b:sec)
It is a shame that this venue is so small and limited, as the climbing is quite good and it is only a 20 minute drive from my front door. This was a brief but enjoyable session ticking the remainder of the crag after my initial visit last week. We moved systematically from right to left: beginning with the very easy but pleasant line of shallow grooves. Gentle but nice. The Quartz Slab to its left was more delicate with nice technical moves leading to a superb but tiny quartz slab: if this went on for 50ft it would be a classic. As it is, two crisp moves on incut holds gets you to the top. Virtually all the routes on the crag are overgraded, a common issue with UK sports routes, and the Thin Grey Wall was no exception. Supposedly f6c, it is indeed quite technical with some intricate moves, but nowhere near 6c, which is my leading limit. I led this clean and onsight. Good friction, small footholds and neat edging up to an awkward rockover on to a long thin ledge. Nicely sustained, probably more like 6a+. Narrow Arete gives another pleasant climb, up the eponymous feature via some technical moves on small holds. Again, never particularly hard, probably 5+. The route to its left is steep to start, as its name suggests, and looks disjointed: but is quite good again. I climbed Quartz Wall from the same lower-off so moved left at the top to avoid the pendulum (and therefore the full tick). Good rough limestone: if only the crag was twice as high and six times as long.
Routes: Easy Grooves (f4c:led), The Quartz Slab (f6a:led), Thin Grey Wall (f6c:led), Narrow Arete (f6a+:led), Hard Start (f6a+:sec), Quartz Wall variant (f6b:sec)
It is a shame that this venue is so small and limited, as the climbing is quite good and it is only a 20 minute drive from my front door. This was a brief but enjoyable session ticking the remainder of the crag after my initial visit last week. We moved systematically from right to left: beginning with the very easy but pleasant line of shallow grooves. Gentle but nice. The Quartz Slab to its left was more delicate with nice technical moves leading to a superb but tiny quartz slab: if this went on for 50ft it would be a classic. As it is, two crisp moves on incut holds gets you to the top. Virtually all the routes on the crag are overgraded, a common issue with UK sports routes, and the Thin Grey Wall was no exception. Supposedly f6c, it is indeed quite technical with some intricate moves, but nowhere near 6c, which is my leading limit. I led this clean and onsight. Good friction, small footholds and neat edging up to an awkward rockover on to a long thin ledge. Nicely sustained, probably more like 6a+. Narrow Arete gives another pleasant climb, up the eponymous feature via some technical moves on small holds. Again, never particularly hard, probably 5+. The route to its left is steep to start, as its name suggests, and looks disjointed: but is quite good again. I climbed Quartz Wall from the same lower-off so moved left at the top to avoid the pendulum (and therefore the full tick). Good rough limestone: if only the crag was twice as high and six times as long.
Sunday, August 07, 2016
Glyder Fach climbing
Crag: Glyder Fach
Routes: Hawk's Nest Arete (VS 4c,4a:led p.2), Needle's Eye Climb (VD:led p.1), Route II (VD:led p.1)
What was intended to be a day of cragging on high 'summer' cliffs turned into a classic mountaineering day out incorporating not one, but two traditional chimney pitches. This was largely because of bad weather: with strong winds, swirling mist and intermittent drizzle throughout. I used to climb on Glyder Fach a lot, and have ticked most of the lower grade classics. One such, fondly remembered, is Hawk's Nest Arete, which I did with Tim in the 90s. Vic hadn't done it, so we took the hour-long slog past Bochlwyd up to the detached buttress, right of the main crag, and he led it in high winds. It was cold on the fingers, which isn't ideal on this route, which has a surprisingly delicate crux. It looks much harder from below and is a very elegant line. Easy, juggy climbing up to a large block, before a steeper crack leads to a surprisingly hard crux using sidepulls and small holds to gain jugs above. It remains thought provoking above, with a thin finger crack leading to a ledge. All made much harder today by strong winds and cold fingers. A little drizzle in the air at times to add to the fun. The second pitch, my lead, is far easier but was wet and a bit dirty in places. It takes a wide and slightly thrutchy crack to gain a side crack and the top. The descent is complex but quite absorbing and atmospheric, particularly now that the mist had descended and was swirling round the pinnacles and gullies that characterise this part of the crag. We traversed over to Dolmen buttress and then intricately down Central Gully with some caution. After some lunch, I merged the first two pitches of Needle's Eye Climb. This was an obvious choice for two reasons: it is enclosed and out of the increasingly strong wind, and I hadn't done it before. The first pitch goes up a juggy slab to a mantelshelf which gains the top of the initial chimney. Then easy and vegetated climbing up to a clean rib. The next pitch is ungradeable and pretty memorable. Somewhat reminiscent of other famous thrutches like Monolith Crack and the Chasm, but essentially unique. A slab leads to a delicate traverse towards the wide crack behind a pinnacle (this is the 'needle'). It is impossible to get through this initially, even for skinny people. The only solution is to strenuously udge up the crack, with one leg 'cycling' up the outside wall. Eventually it becomes possible to squeeze through the crack to gain the cave beyond like a cork popping out of a bottle! The route keeps coming in this traditional vein, up a pinnacle and several cracks to the top. The mist swirled round and the drizzle got a bit heavier, so we continued the Victorian theme, starting to really enjoy and embrace the unexpected mountaineering ethos of the day. We traversed over to Dolmen Buttress. I have never climbed here before, one of the highest crags in Snowdonia. I led the easy classic of Route II: the first pitch goes up a fine clean slab on jugs. It is exposed for the grade, traversing out to the edge of the slab initially. From the mid-height platform, Vic then led the ultra-traditional top pitch up a very atmospheric chimney in the mist and rain. This goes easily at first, to gain the dank, cave-like interior. Then a back and foot thrutch, during which I tore my coat and dropped my nut key into the depths of the cave. From the top of an internal pinnacle, an easy traverse left allows for an escape to be made! Slightly reminiscent of Great Gully on Craig yr Ysfa: an esoteric little gem despite its lowly grade. Another complex descent, made more problematic by the fact that we were higher on the crag: tricky downclimb to gain Central Gully. Then directly down to boggy Bochlwyd and the car.
Routes: Hawk's Nest Arete (VS 4c,4a:led p.2), Needle's Eye Climb (VD:led p.1), Route II (VD:led p.1)
What was intended to be a day of cragging on high 'summer' cliffs turned into a classic mountaineering day out incorporating not one, but two traditional chimney pitches. This was largely because of bad weather: with strong winds, swirling mist and intermittent drizzle throughout. I used to climb on Glyder Fach a lot, and have ticked most of the lower grade classics. One such, fondly remembered, is Hawk's Nest Arete, which I did with Tim in the 90s. Vic hadn't done it, so we took the hour-long slog past Bochlwyd up to the detached buttress, right of the main crag, and he led it in high winds. It was cold on the fingers, which isn't ideal on this route, which has a surprisingly delicate crux. It looks much harder from below and is a very elegant line. Easy, juggy climbing up to a large block, before a steeper crack leads to a surprisingly hard crux using sidepulls and small holds to gain jugs above. It remains thought provoking above, with a thin finger crack leading to a ledge. All made much harder today by strong winds and cold fingers. A little drizzle in the air at times to add to the fun. The second pitch, my lead, is far easier but was wet and a bit dirty in places. It takes a wide and slightly thrutchy crack to gain a side crack and the top. The descent is complex but quite absorbing and atmospheric, particularly now that the mist had descended and was swirling round the pinnacles and gullies that characterise this part of the crag. We traversed over to Dolmen buttress and then intricately down Central Gully with some caution. After some lunch, I merged the first two pitches of Needle's Eye Climb. This was an obvious choice for two reasons: it is enclosed and out of the increasingly strong wind, and I hadn't done it before. The first pitch goes up a juggy slab to a mantelshelf which gains the top of the initial chimney. Then easy and vegetated climbing up to a clean rib. The next pitch is ungradeable and pretty memorable. Somewhat reminiscent of other famous thrutches like Monolith Crack and the Chasm, but essentially unique. A slab leads to a delicate traverse towards the wide crack behind a pinnacle (this is the 'needle'). It is impossible to get through this initially, even for skinny people. The only solution is to strenuously udge up the crack, with one leg 'cycling' up the outside wall. Eventually it becomes possible to squeeze through the crack to gain the cave beyond like a cork popping out of a bottle! The route keeps coming in this traditional vein, up a pinnacle and several cracks to the top. The mist swirled round and the drizzle got a bit heavier, so we continued the Victorian theme, starting to really enjoy and embrace the unexpected mountaineering ethos of the day. We traversed over to Dolmen Buttress. I have never climbed here before, one of the highest crags in Snowdonia. I led the easy classic of Route II: the first pitch goes up a fine clean slab on jugs. It is exposed for the grade, traversing out to the edge of the slab initially. From the mid-height platform, Vic then led the ultra-traditional top pitch up a very atmospheric chimney in the mist and rain. This goes easily at first, to gain the dank, cave-like interior. Then a back and foot thrutch, during which I tore my coat and dropped my nut key into the depths of the cave. From the top of an internal pinnacle, an easy traverse left allows for an escape to be made! Slightly reminiscent of Great Gully on Craig yr Ysfa: an esoteric little gem despite its lowly grade. Another complex descent, made more problematic by the fact that we were higher on the crag: tricky downclimb to gain Central Gully. Then directly down to boggy Bochlwyd and the car.
Friday, August 05, 2016
Castle Inn climbing
Crag: Castle Inn Quarry
Routes: Indian Summer (f6a:led), As You Like It (f6b+:sec), Conan the Libertarian (f5+:led), October Premiere (f5+:sec), Conan Eliminate (f6a:sec), Hidden Gem (f3+:sol), Route 2 (f6a:sec)
Having visited this crag dozens of times over many years, it's not surprising that there are only a few gaps left. One such is As You Like It, a tough 6b+ over the obvious bulge on the Fine View wall. We prepared for this by taking turns to lead Indian Summer for a warm up: always enjoyable, edging up the wall on small pockets and tiny ledges, good rough limestone. The sun came out and prospects looked good for Dave's lead of the 6b+. Vic and I followed, knowing that it is a hard route to onsight and keenly aware of my current lack of forearm strength. A steep slab with some good moves leads to an undercut and good moves right to where the route steepens. The last 5 metres of the climb contain most of the action: continuously steep and pumpy, leading to the crux at the final bolt, which requires a high step to a sloping foothold then a kind of layaway to a final jug. Very strenuous, draining climbing which took a couple of attempts to get right. Big lactic build-up, which was hard to shake off, although I felt OK for my next lead up the 5+ of Conan. After some lunch, we all took turns at various eliminates on this side wall, hot sunshine now, before finishing with the old favourite of Route 2 up the centre of the main face. I have done this route many times over several decades and always remember the crux moves up to a tiny pinched stalactite. Technical rather than strenuous, thank goodness.
Routes: Indian Summer (f6a:led), As You Like It (f6b+:sec), Conan the Libertarian (f5+:led), October Premiere (f5+:sec), Conan Eliminate (f6a:sec), Hidden Gem (f3+:sol), Route 2 (f6a:sec)
Having visited this crag dozens of times over many years, it's not surprising that there are only a few gaps left. One such is As You Like It, a tough 6b+ over the obvious bulge on the Fine View wall. We prepared for this by taking turns to lead Indian Summer for a warm up: always enjoyable, edging up the wall on small pockets and tiny ledges, good rough limestone. The sun came out and prospects looked good for Dave's lead of the 6b+. Vic and I followed, knowing that it is a hard route to onsight and keenly aware of my current lack of forearm strength. A steep slab with some good moves leads to an undercut and good moves right to where the route steepens. The last 5 metres of the climb contain most of the action: continuously steep and pumpy, leading to the crux at the final bolt, which requires a high step to a sloping foothold then a kind of layaway to a final jug. Very strenuous, draining climbing which took a couple of attempts to get right. Big lactic build-up, which was hard to shake off, although I felt OK for my next lead up the 5+ of Conan. After some lunch, we all took turns at various eliminates on this side wall, hot sunshine now, before finishing with the old favourite of Route 2 up the centre of the main face. I have done this route many times over several decades and always remember the crux moves up to a tiny pinched stalactite. Technical rather than strenuous, thank goodness.
Wednesday, August 03, 2016
Ponderosa fell race
Race: Ponderosa (4m/800ft)
Time/Position: 29.27 (7th from 94 [1st Veteran])
My slowest time ever on this course, but also probably my highest finish. Possibly an illustration of the effects of a strong headwind on the descent, or maybe just a weaker field than usual. The weather is often unseasonal on this race, which I have done around six times. Always a very tricky race to judge: it is so short, and the climb up to the top of Cyrn y Brain so quick (around 8 minutes) that it is inevitably quite intense from the start line, but you can't slacken off much as it is hard to overtake on the very long descent which contours the lovely but boggy hillside above Eglwyseg. Blustery with some rain for this section. The final climb, after such a long and fast descent, is always pretty desperate and today was no exception. I was catching the guy in front but couldn't quite find the strength to get past him. Got a prize for first in category: a first for me on this particular race.
Time/Position: 29.27 (7th from 94 [1st Veteran])
My slowest time ever on this course, but also probably my highest finish. Possibly an illustration of the effects of a strong headwind on the descent, or maybe just a weaker field than usual. The weather is often unseasonal on this race, which I have done around six times. Always a very tricky race to judge: it is so short, and the climb up to the top of Cyrn y Brain so quick (around 8 minutes) that it is inevitably quite intense from the start line, but you can't slacken off much as it is hard to overtake on the very long descent which contours the lovely but boggy hillside above Eglwyseg. Blustery with some rain for this section. The final climb, after such a long and fast descent, is always pretty desperate and today was no exception. I was catching the guy in front but couldn't quite find the strength to get past him. Got a prize for first in category: a first for me on this particular race.
Minera climbing
Crag: Minera Quarry
Routes: The Calch (f6b+:sec), Open Grey Groove (f4:led), Blocky Wall (f6a:sec)
After a frustrating half hour searching for the lower quarry, we eventually emerged at a windy and drizzly upper quarry. This has one broken but fairly impressive crag, the one that is obvious from the World's End road above Minera: I've often noticed it in passing but have never investigated further. This crag now houses two routes, one of which is The Calch at f6b+. Andy led this, with Hayley and I following. Given my lack of climbing this year, this was hardly the ideal route to get back into it. It was steep and fairly technical higher up, although did give a few decent rests (which helped). A broken lower wall leads to a dirty ledge, then much better climbing up flowstone features reminiscent of a steeper Castle Inn. A juggy crack leads to a few rounded pillars, then steep and technical moves to gain a wider upper scoop. I went too far right initially and messed up the sequence, inevitably fighting failing strength (as well as the light rain that was falling!). After this, with time running out before this evening's Ponderosa race down the road, we finally located the undistinguished Lower Quarry. I led the very easy Grey Groove on unpolished black limestone and we finished off with the overgraded Blocky Wall before zooming round to the Ponderosa to enter the race in the nick of time.
Routes: The Calch (f6b+:sec), Open Grey Groove (f4:led), Blocky Wall (f6a:sec)
After a frustrating half hour searching for the lower quarry, we eventually emerged at a windy and drizzly upper quarry. This has one broken but fairly impressive crag, the one that is obvious from the World's End road above Minera: I've often noticed it in passing but have never investigated further. This crag now houses two routes, one of which is The Calch at f6b+. Andy led this, with Hayley and I following. Given my lack of climbing this year, this was hardly the ideal route to get back into it. It was steep and fairly technical higher up, although did give a few decent rests (which helped). A broken lower wall leads to a dirty ledge, then much better climbing up flowstone features reminiscent of a steeper Castle Inn. A juggy crack leads to a few rounded pillars, then steep and technical moves to gain a wider upper scoop. I went too far right initially and messed up the sequence, inevitably fighting failing strength (as well as the light rain that was falling!). After this, with time running out before this evening's Ponderosa race down the road, we finally located the undistinguished Lower Quarry. I led the very easy Grey Groove on unpolished black limestone and we finished off with the overgraded Blocky Wall before zooming round to the Ponderosa to enter the race in the nick of time.
Friday, July 29, 2016
Esterel-Mont Vinaigre loop
Peaks: Mont Vinaigre
Area: Esterel, Provence
This was the second long run I'd done during our week in the Esterel. I've run up Mont Vinaigre from the caravan before (seven years ago, incredibly). It is not that far as the crow flies, although it looks distant from the swimming pool, but it is problematised by the lack of a simple approach. Tracks lead everywhere in the Esterel, and I have a reasonable knowledge of them, but there is no simple way of approaching Vinaigre from the south. On Wednesday, I had a mini-epic after taking the long contouring path above the Vallon Olivier attempting to join the GR51 but eventually running out of time. I then took several different paths on the western slopes of Malpey before dropping down to an untracked side valley. This was temporarily appalling, crashing through the maquis and boulders to eventually gain the dry stream bed at the valley bottom. Scratched and bruised, the stream bed was better but still blocked with fallen trees and boulders at various points: all a reminder of how wild the Esterel is in some corners. Eventually the side valley emerged in the main N-S (broadly) valley and I made good progress back to the site. Today, I made a more concerted effort to get the navigation right. It was another 6am start, beautiful high pink clouds well before the sunrise: wonderful ambience as ever, nobody around. I went straight for Carrefour Castelli, down to the bridge, then the steep climb to the derelict Maison Forestiere which is right in the centre of the range, perhaps the most remote spot of all. From here, a superb path contours the hillside then heads due north for Mont Vinaigre: superb running in the early morning. It emerges on the Route des Cols, forcing you onto a long detour west along the metalled road to finally pick up the GR51 which leads more steeply to the top. Surprisingly lengthy: 100 minutes or so from the caravan. Views were stupendous, the best I have ever had in scores of visits to Esterel summits. Cloud was gradually clearing from the valleys, lending superb foreground views with distant summits poking through. Wonderful, although bizarrely I had to share the summit with a four-piece female choir singing soft spiritual tunes as the sun rose. I fear I ruined their special moment, dripping with sweat and downing two cereal bars in quick succession. My plan was to continue along the GR51, but I felt too tired, so went back a similar way via a few short variations. Back in time for the bakery opening and the usual breakfast.
Area: Esterel, Provence
This was the second long run I'd done during our week in the Esterel. I've run up Mont Vinaigre from the caravan before (seven years ago, incredibly). It is not that far as the crow flies, although it looks distant from the swimming pool, but it is problematised by the lack of a simple approach. Tracks lead everywhere in the Esterel, and I have a reasonable knowledge of them, but there is no simple way of approaching Vinaigre from the south. On Wednesday, I had a mini-epic after taking the long contouring path above the Vallon Olivier attempting to join the GR51 but eventually running out of time. I then took several different paths on the western slopes of Malpey before dropping down to an untracked side valley. This was temporarily appalling, crashing through the maquis and boulders to eventually gain the dry stream bed at the valley bottom. Scratched and bruised, the stream bed was better but still blocked with fallen trees and boulders at various points: all a reminder of how wild the Esterel is in some corners. Eventually the side valley emerged in the main N-S (broadly) valley and I made good progress back to the site. Today, I made a more concerted effort to get the navigation right. It was another 6am start, beautiful high pink clouds well before the sunrise: wonderful ambience as ever, nobody around. I went straight for Carrefour Castelli, down to the bridge, then the steep climb to the derelict Maison Forestiere which is right in the centre of the range, perhaps the most remote spot of all. From here, a superb path contours the hillside then heads due north for Mont Vinaigre: superb running in the early morning. It emerges on the Route des Cols, forcing you onto a long detour west along the metalled road to finally pick up the GR51 which leads more steeply to the top. Surprisingly lengthy: 100 minutes or so from the caravan. Views were stupendous, the best I have ever had in scores of visits to Esterel summits. Cloud was gradually clearing from the valleys, lending superb foreground views with distant summits poking through. Wonderful, although bizarrely I had to share the summit with a four-piece female choir singing soft spiritual tunes as the sun rose. I fear I ruined their special moment, dripping with sweat and downing two cereal bars in quick succession. My plan was to continue along the GR51, but I felt too tired, so went back a similar way via a few short variations. Back in time for the bakery opening and the usual breakfast.
Thursday, July 28, 2016
Dramont climbing
Crag: Cap Dramont, Esterel
Routes: Slab Route 1 (f3+:sol), Slab Route 2 (f3+:sol), Slab Route 3 (f3+:sol), Slab Route 4 (f3+:sol)
Just a short play around on the easy slab above the sea that I have enjoyed on previous occasions. It is a family venue really, but works well in conjunction with bouldering on the steeper side and the combination of bouldering and coasteering that is possible in some of the steeper calanques closer to Tiki beach.
Routes: Slab Route 1 (f3+:sol), Slab Route 2 (f3+:sol), Slab Route 3 (f3+:sol), Slab Route 4 (f3+:sol)
Just a short play around on the easy slab above the sea that I have enjoyed on previous occasions. It is a family venue really, but works well in conjunction with bouldering on the steeper side and the combination of bouldering and coasteering that is possible in some of the steeper calanques closer to Tiki beach.
Castelli mountain bike loop
MTB route: Perthus/Castelli loop (30k/800m)
Area: Esterel
I've wanted to do some proper mountain biking in the Esterel for years. This wasn't really that, but it was at least a brief taster. The campsite has purchased decent bikes for hire, with good suspension, so we all hired them and left the site around 9.30. We did a version of my favourite 'Perthus' running route (done as a fartlek loop on Sunday) but tagged on a few extra sections to expand on the route we did last time we hired bikes four years ago when the children were far smaller! They still found it hard going in the heat though. I had an embarrassing crash almost immediately, testing the breaks on an off road section! Lost some motor function in my thumb for a week as a result. Steady climbing past Roussiveau, then a break at the shady Gorge du Perthus. From the Col de Mistral, we headed off-road for a bit, towards the Pic de l'Ours, but Kate didn't enjoy it much. So we headed back down via the viewpoint above the Col de Belle Barbe: this looks out over the Ecureille valley and involved another off-road section. Back via the cycle path, after which I went on a long extension down to the Carrefour Castelli, all off road, then along the Castelli piste back to Roussiveau and then back to the campsite. There is a very long marked MTB circuit of the Esterel: one for the next visit.
Area: Esterel
I've wanted to do some proper mountain biking in the Esterel for years. This wasn't really that, but it was at least a brief taster. The campsite has purchased decent bikes for hire, with good suspension, so we all hired them and left the site around 9.30. We did a version of my favourite 'Perthus' running route (done as a fartlek loop on Sunday) but tagged on a few extra sections to expand on the route we did last time we hired bikes four years ago when the children were far smaller! They still found it hard going in the heat though. I had an embarrassing crash almost immediately, testing the breaks on an off road section! Lost some motor function in my thumb for a week as a result. Steady climbing past Roussiveau, then a break at the shady Gorge du Perthus. From the Col de Mistral, we headed off-road for a bit, towards the Pic de l'Ours, but Kate didn't enjoy it much. So we headed back down via the viewpoint above the Col de Belle Barbe: this looks out over the Ecureille valley and involved another off-road section. Back via the cycle path, after which I went on a long extension down to the Carrefour Castelli, all off road, then along the Castelli piste back to Roussiveau and then back to the campsite. There is a very long marked MTB circuit of the Esterel: one for the next visit.
Friday, July 22, 2016
Pic de Bena
Peaks: Pic de Bena (1794m)
Area: Eastern Pyrenees, France
My luck ran out this morning, with bad weather sweeping in to the Pyrenees. My window for action was even shorter than usual, as we were planning to leave for the long drive to Montpellier at 9.30am! But, I hoped to take in some of the 'Scottish-style' peaks above Puymorens first and got up at first light to do just that. Driving up the valley, however, it was immediately apparent that the weather had turned: black clouds with a low base, and a strong wind. I decided that the only option was a much lower peak, and consulted the map to find an ideal option just above our 'home' border village of Enveitg. A tiny lane led up to a beautiful high plateau above the Cerdagne, dotted with orange granite boulders, part of the same terrain we had enjoyed on our family outing yesterday. Pic de Bena is quite distinctive from the plateau: like a volcanic cone. On closer inspection, however, it is more of a long spur thrown down from the higher peaks further north like Pic Pedra. I just went for the main Tour de Carlit path which curves to the east around Pic de Bena from Mas Franca. I was a bit tired after recent exertions, but it was a delightful gentle run and an excellent choice in the prevailing weather. Dark clouds remained on the horizon, but here all was calm with a spectacular dawn sunburst emerging from the clouds. Puigmal and the border peaks beyond the wide Cerdagne valley were still clear. I emerged at a meadow with more of those wonderful boulders (this area has a lifetime of options for the keen boulderer, with rock of the highest quality). I ploughed up to the highpoint, where I was immediately attacked by red flying ants: hundreds of them. This sent me scurrying back to the main path, where I ran up to the Devesa de Bena before the return trip back to the plateau. Back at the gite by 9am, after which we drove to Montpellier via a rainy Conflent, followed by a sunny picnic as we left the mountains at Prades and the weather improved dramatically.
Area: Eastern Pyrenees, France
My luck ran out this morning, with bad weather sweeping in to the Pyrenees. My window for action was even shorter than usual, as we were planning to leave for the long drive to Montpellier at 9.30am! But, I hoped to take in some of the 'Scottish-style' peaks above Puymorens first and got up at first light to do just that. Driving up the valley, however, it was immediately apparent that the weather had turned: black clouds with a low base, and a strong wind. I decided that the only option was a much lower peak, and consulted the map to find an ideal option just above our 'home' border village of Enveitg. A tiny lane led up to a beautiful high plateau above the Cerdagne, dotted with orange granite boulders, part of the same terrain we had enjoyed on our family outing yesterday. Pic de Bena is quite distinctive from the plateau: like a volcanic cone. On closer inspection, however, it is more of a long spur thrown down from the higher peaks further north like Pic Pedra. I just went for the main Tour de Carlit path which curves to the east around Pic de Bena from Mas Franca. I was a bit tired after recent exertions, but it was a delightful gentle run and an excellent choice in the prevailing weather. Dark clouds remained on the horizon, but here all was calm with a spectacular dawn sunburst emerging from the clouds. Puigmal and the border peaks beyond the wide Cerdagne valley were still clear. I emerged at a meadow with more of those wonderful boulders (this area has a lifetime of options for the keen boulderer, with rock of the highest quality). I ploughed up to the highpoint, where I was immediately attacked by red flying ants: hundreds of them. This sent me scurrying back to the main path, where I ran up to the Devesa de Bena before the return trip back to the plateau. Back at the gite by 9am, after which we drove to Montpellier via a rainy Conflent, followed by a sunny picnic as we left the mountains at Prades and the weather improved dramatically.
Thursday, July 21, 2016
Pic Carlit
Peaks: Pic Carlit (2921m)
Area: Eastern Pyrenees, France
Back in the Pyrenees for the first time since 1997, so it was nice to be able to get up this famous peak, probably the most notable summit in the gentler eastern part of the range. I still have fond memories of trips to the central part of the Pyrenees in 1997 and 1993, when we climbed lots of the big summits like Posets, Balaitous, Vignemale, Pic du Midi, Pic d'Arriel. The landscape further east is less dramatic but still typically Pyrenean with the usual exquisite blend of water, wood and mountain. We had driven over the Col de Puymorens to Andorra yesterday, and it was only 20 minutes or so from our gite in Enveitg so it seemed the obvious place to start. I didn't realise that Carlit is a considerably tougher undertaking from this side (compared to the east). It made for a long, but mainly runnable outing. The forecast was for rain later, so my usual early start seemed even more prudent than normal. The route is not easy to follow from this side, clearly much less popular, and requires the linkage of a few different paths. I started from Font Viva in the Lanos Valley, following a steep path along a stream to the beautiful Estany (lake) de Font Viva. I missed the tiny path up the hill that should have gained the main GR7 route to the Lanos lake, however. This was understandable, as it was tiny and unmarked, an illustration of how unconventional this route up Carlit is. Instead, I had to undertake an initially desperate slog up steep, wet slopes of rock and deep grass due north from Font Viva. A tiring start, although once I emerged on the GR7 all was forgiven. The path forms part of the Tour du Carlit traverse and gave a memorable level run all the way to the Estany de Lanos, poised hundreds of metres above the valley with views across to Coll Roig. The sun appeared behind Carlit and onward prospects looked good: magnificent running in a superb environment. The onward route was complex, but I got it right, north-east up an initially confusing series of beautiful miniature valleys with typical Pyrenean scenery of little pine copses and waterfalls. These led to isolated Estany dels Forats. From here, the final climb up Carlit is bleakly obvious: it takes a steep and shattered broad couloir to the summit. In fact, although it was predictably hard it gave a break from running and I found a more solid spiky rib left of the gully which gave good scrambling at around II+. Eventually I was forced back into the gully, and took its shifting screes towards a short final scramble round the top of a gully to the summit ridge. More short-lived scrambling led to the top and great views east over the lakes that make up the more usual ascent route. It took two hours to get up from Font Viva despite running most of it, an illustration of the length of the route, plus my mistake (and fatigue!). A strong wind blew, and some cloud passed over but the summit remained clear. It was far from the perfect clarity earlier in the week, but still not bad at all. In fact, contrary to the forecast, the weather improved as I descended to give some superbly photogenic conditions. The little valleys formed an idyllic foreground to views of Pic Pedros and Puig de Coma d'Or. I made good time on the descent and thoroughly enjoyed it. I was hungry by the time we had lunch in the weird enclave of Llivia, then a second picnic above Targassone, in a superb wild flower meadow looking down on the Cerdagne. A family walk up the Val d'Angoustrina finished me off.
Area: Eastern Pyrenees, France
Back in the Pyrenees for the first time since 1997, so it was nice to be able to get up this famous peak, probably the most notable summit in the gentler eastern part of the range. I still have fond memories of trips to the central part of the Pyrenees in 1997 and 1993, when we climbed lots of the big summits like Posets, Balaitous, Vignemale, Pic du Midi, Pic d'Arriel. The landscape further east is less dramatic but still typically Pyrenean with the usual exquisite blend of water, wood and mountain. We had driven over the Col de Puymorens to Andorra yesterday, and it was only 20 minutes or so from our gite in Enveitg so it seemed the obvious place to start. I didn't realise that Carlit is a considerably tougher undertaking from this side (compared to the east). It made for a long, but mainly runnable outing. The forecast was for rain later, so my usual early start seemed even more prudent than normal. The route is not easy to follow from this side, clearly much less popular, and requires the linkage of a few different paths. I started from Font Viva in the Lanos Valley, following a steep path along a stream to the beautiful Estany (lake) de Font Viva. I missed the tiny path up the hill that should have gained the main GR7 route to the Lanos lake, however. This was understandable, as it was tiny and unmarked, an illustration of how unconventional this route up Carlit is. Instead, I had to undertake an initially desperate slog up steep, wet slopes of rock and deep grass due north from Font Viva. A tiring start, although once I emerged on the GR7 all was forgiven. The path forms part of the Tour du Carlit traverse and gave a memorable level run all the way to the Estany de Lanos, poised hundreds of metres above the valley with views across to Coll Roig. The sun appeared behind Carlit and onward prospects looked good: magnificent running in a superb environment. The onward route was complex, but I got it right, north-east up an initially confusing series of beautiful miniature valleys with typical Pyrenean scenery of little pine copses and waterfalls. These led to isolated Estany dels Forats. From here, the final climb up Carlit is bleakly obvious: it takes a steep and shattered broad couloir to the summit. In fact, although it was predictably hard it gave a break from running and I found a more solid spiky rib left of the gully which gave good scrambling at around II+. Eventually I was forced back into the gully, and took its shifting screes towards a short final scramble round the top of a gully to the summit ridge. More short-lived scrambling led to the top and great views east over the lakes that make up the more usual ascent route. It took two hours to get up from Font Viva despite running most of it, an illustration of the length of the route, plus my mistake (and fatigue!). A strong wind blew, and some cloud passed over but the summit remained clear. It was far from the perfect clarity earlier in the week, but still not bad at all. In fact, contrary to the forecast, the weather improved as I descended to give some superbly photogenic conditions. The little valleys formed an idyllic foreground to views of Pic Pedros and Puig de Coma d'Or. I made good time on the descent and thoroughly enjoyed it. I was hungry by the time we had lunch in the weird enclave of Llivia, then a second picnic above Targassone, in a superb wild flower meadow looking down on the Cerdagne. A family walk up the Val d'Angoustrina finished me off.
Wednesday, July 20, 2016
Gallina Pelada
Peaks: Cap de Gallina Pelada (2327m)
Area: Serra d'Ensija, Catalonia
This is the highpoint of the range of rounded green hills that forms the western wall of the valley enclosing Saldes and our campsite. It gave a perfect quick outing before we left the Cadi-Moixero park (with some regret in my case!). A small road winds up the lower slopes of the Serra d'Ensija from the Col de Trappa above Saldes, and I set off running from the road just below Font Freda. Scented pine forests lead to a dry riverbed or storm channel. Then steep scree eventually gains beautiful green meadows with scattered dwarf pine trees (Les Planelles). This landscape characterises the Serra d'Ensija: and Pedraforca is an ever-present object across the valley. The meadows were runnable, although I went much too far left initially. This was no problem though, as it was all delightful, and I eventually gained a giant limestone plateau with sinkholes and rolling low hills. Superb running led to the Refugi Delgado Ubeda, with Gallina Pelada above. In some ways the terrain was reminiscent of the Clwydians, certainly just as runnable and I made good progress to gain the broad ridge up to the summit. The light was very different to yesterday. Gone was the crystal clear clarity, to be replaced by a beautiful soft orange glow: sunny but with a very thin layer of cloud. Distant views were hazy, but the Cadi range and Pedraforca were clear, and the Serra d'Ensija close at hand was bathed in that soft sunshine. It was still very early, so I had a bit of cheese and chorizo on the summit before pelting down in a superb 35 minute downhill blast.
Area: Serra d'Ensija, Catalonia
This is the highpoint of the range of rounded green hills that forms the western wall of the valley enclosing Saldes and our campsite. It gave a perfect quick outing before we left the Cadi-Moixero park (with some regret in my case!). A small road winds up the lower slopes of the Serra d'Ensija from the Col de Trappa above Saldes, and I set off running from the road just below Font Freda. Scented pine forests lead to a dry riverbed or storm channel. Then steep scree eventually gains beautiful green meadows with scattered dwarf pine trees (Les Planelles). This landscape characterises the Serra d'Ensija: and Pedraforca is an ever-present object across the valley. The meadows were runnable, although I went much too far left initially. This was no problem though, as it was all delightful, and I eventually gained a giant limestone plateau with sinkholes and rolling low hills. Superb running led to the Refugi Delgado Ubeda, with Gallina Pelada above. In some ways the terrain was reminiscent of the Clwydians, certainly just as runnable and I made good progress to gain the broad ridge up to the summit. The light was very different to yesterday. Gone was the crystal clear clarity, to be replaced by a beautiful soft orange glow: sunny but with a very thin layer of cloud. Distant views were hazy, but the Cadi range and Pedraforca were clear, and the Serra d'Ensija close at hand was bathed in that soft sunshine. It was still very early, so I had a bit of cheese and chorizo on the summit before pelting down in a superb 35 minute downhill blast.
Tuesday, July 19, 2016
Pedraforca
Peaks: Pedraforca Cima Nord (2438m), Pedraforca Pollego Superior (2507m)
Routes: Verdet (uII)
Area: Cadi-Moixero, Catalonia
Symbol of the Catalan people, Pedraforca is a superb mountain, truly distinctive with its twin-pronged summit and notable isolation. Arriving in the Cadi-Moixero national park, deep in the Catalan interior, is a magical experience. The area is beautiful and remarkably peaceful, particularly after a day in Barcelona (after flying in late on Sunday). Our campsite, the Mirador del Pedraforca, paid homage to the peak: a stupendous view towards it from our chalet and the swimming pool (while cooling off in the pool with the kids I realised that its double summit did remind me of something else: Pic du Midi d'Ossau in the central Pyrenees, although I did that in 1993 so memory is fading!). The mountain was, in short, essential - so I left the chalet before dawn next day with a plan to run the classic circuit and get back in time for breakfast and a family tour of the area. Although it took a while to find the right road above Saldes, once I did I made rapid progress up to the Lluis Estephan refuge, then up good but steep paths which wind through the trees and skirt some big limestone walls until the open terrain below the Col de Verdet is reached. The weather was stunning: deep blue cloudless skies and perfect clarity of light. Views over the Cadi range and across to the Serra d'Ensija were fabulous. I overtook a trio of Catalan lads from Tarragona at the start of the scrambling. This is easy (no more than grade II) but very enjoyable, up a slabby and very broad couloir/gully to a steepening with a couple of fixed ropes. This gains a mini col below the north peak. From here, a short descent over the northern slopes of the peak (above Gosol) allows for more excellent scrambling up slabs and short chimneys (II) with good views of the more dramatic rock walls above Saldes. The actual summit (Pollego Superior) is surprisingly large, with spectacular views due to the clarity of light - Montserrat above Barcelona was clearly visible above Gallina Pellada on the horizon. Close at hand, the soft green ranges of the Bergueda contrasted with the towering limestone walls around Pedraforca. I walked along the narrow ridge towards the Caldera for a bit before dropping down easily to L'Enforcadura. This is the enormous deep col between the two peaks, and allows for a great traverse. You really wouldn't want to come up via this scree covered couloir, known as the Tartera del Pedraforca: it's bad enough in descent, with loose scree, arduous going with little grip left on my old trail shoes and numerous slips, cutting my hand in two places. Once the treeline is reached, the going is far easier, with good running contouring the slopes back to the refuge surprisingly quickly. I nibbled a bit of manchego and chorizo for an appropriate breakfast, then scurried back down to the car and main breakfast back at the campsite. Less than 2:30 for the full traverse.
Routes: Verdet (uII)
Area: Cadi-Moixero, Catalonia
Symbol of the Catalan people, Pedraforca is a superb mountain, truly distinctive with its twin-pronged summit and notable isolation. Arriving in the Cadi-Moixero national park, deep in the Catalan interior, is a magical experience. The area is beautiful and remarkably peaceful, particularly after a day in Barcelona (after flying in late on Sunday). Our campsite, the Mirador del Pedraforca, paid homage to the peak: a stupendous view towards it from our chalet and the swimming pool (while cooling off in the pool with the kids I realised that its double summit did remind me of something else: Pic du Midi d'Ossau in the central Pyrenees, although I did that in 1993 so memory is fading!). The mountain was, in short, essential - so I left the chalet before dawn next day with a plan to run the classic circuit and get back in time for breakfast and a family tour of the area. Although it took a while to find the right road above Saldes, once I did I made rapid progress up to the Lluis Estephan refuge, then up good but steep paths which wind through the trees and skirt some big limestone walls until the open terrain below the Col de Verdet is reached. The weather was stunning: deep blue cloudless skies and perfect clarity of light. Views over the Cadi range and across to the Serra d'Ensija were fabulous. I overtook a trio of Catalan lads from Tarragona at the start of the scrambling. This is easy (no more than grade II) but very enjoyable, up a slabby and very broad couloir/gully to a steepening with a couple of fixed ropes. This gains a mini col below the north peak. From here, a short descent over the northern slopes of the peak (above Gosol) allows for more excellent scrambling up slabs and short chimneys (II) with good views of the more dramatic rock walls above Saldes. The actual summit (Pollego Superior) is surprisingly large, with spectacular views due to the clarity of light - Montserrat above Barcelona was clearly visible above Gallina Pellada on the horizon. Close at hand, the soft green ranges of the Bergueda contrasted with the towering limestone walls around Pedraforca. I walked along the narrow ridge towards the Caldera for a bit before dropping down easily to L'Enforcadura. This is the enormous deep col between the two peaks, and allows for a great traverse. You really wouldn't want to come up via this scree covered couloir, known as the Tartera del Pedraforca: it's bad enough in descent, with loose scree, arduous going with little grip left on my old trail shoes and numerous slips, cutting my hand in two places. Once the treeline is reached, the going is far easier, with good running contouring the slopes back to the refuge surprisingly quickly. I nibbled a bit of manchego and chorizo for an appropriate breakfast, then scurried back down to the car and main breakfast back at the campsite. Less than 2:30 for the full traverse.
Wednesday, July 13, 2016
The Druid fell race
Race: Druid fell race (5m/1100ft)
Time/Position: 38.01 (13th from 107)
Regretted my decision to do this almost immediately - even the first small climb from Llanferres was a bit of a nightmare. Despite the slowness of my journey round Wasdale on Saturday, I was still pretty drained after such a long outing, with significant quad damage. The first half of the race to the top of Foel Fenlli was pretty awful, after which I perked up very slightly but still suffered throughout. I recorded by far my worse ever result on this race, which I must have done 7 or 8 times and is usually one of my favourites.
Time/Position: 38.01 (13th from 107)
Regretted my decision to do this almost immediately - even the first small climb from Llanferres was a bit of a nightmare. Despite the slowness of my journey round Wasdale on Saturday, I was still pretty drained after such a long outing, with significant quad damage. The first half of the race to the top of Foel Fenlli was pretty awful, after which I perked up very slightly but still suffered throughout. I recorded by far my worse ever result on this race, which I must have done 7 or 8 times and is usually one of my favourites.
Saturday, July 09, 2016
Wasdale Horseshoe
Race: Wasdale Horseshoe fell race (36k/9022ft/AL)
Peaks: Illgill Head (609m), Whin Rigg (635m), Seatallan (692m), Scoat Fell (841m), Pillar (892m), Great Gable (899m), Scafell Pike (978m)
Time/Position: 6.08 (65th from 130)
This is often considered to be the hardest fell race in the UK. Having done most of the other contenders I am inclined to agree, although it is all relative, particularly as I am abjectly unsuited to long fell races and have rarely tried to properly race them: preferring instead to jog round and enjoy them in 'tourist' mode. Today was no exception. I have very little climbing mileage in my legs, and not much distance, so it was something of a relief to get a poor forecast which made it acceptable to go into survival plod mode. Perfect conditions would have been very frustrating! After an evening meal at the Inn, heavy rain during the night continued to hammer our tents through the morning and was obviously set in for the day. In these circumstances, I pack a lot of kit, and I had a fairly heavy sac as the race set off for Illgill Head along the path Vic and I took last year for our long Lingmell Dash warm-up. This is a relatively short climb, although quite steep, and our small team of Buckley Runners stuck together for it: felt like Tattenhall Tough Team for a bit! A nice relaxed run along the ridge, wind not too bad, to Whin Rigg in around 45 minutes. Took the steep descent very easily, and we even had a brief view of Wastwater as we descended to Woodhow at the far end of the lake. Running along the bottom of the valley through woods and fields to Greendale was delightful: it even stopped raining for a bit. Then the great Joss Naylor handed me a drink before the next climb up Greendale Gill. The rain began in earnest again on the steep sides of the gill: the river in semi-spate as we crossed to gain the unpleasant slog up featureless terrain to the top of Seatallan. One of the toughest climbs of the day: wet and cold with the knowledge that the race had hardly even started. From Seatallan, the trickiest navigation of the route starts. Initially a well defined spur leads to the Pots of Ashness. Then we took a contouring line towards Haycock. I kept Nether Beck as a handrail, map and compass out throughout, and we emerged eventually on the main ridge over to Scoat Fell. We were now much higher, and the weather got correspondingly worse. Indeed, the section over Wind Gap to Pillar, exposed (as its name suggests) to the prevailing south-westerlies was probably the worst part of the race weather-wise. I was getting cold, and glad of my cautious tactics: took five minutes at the Pillar summit cairn to put my extra coat and trousers on as the wind howled overhead. Felt much better afterwards, but was now well behind the group I had been running with and on my own for the next section along the ridge to Looking Stead and the Black Sail Pass. Fortunately, I knew the rest of the route slightly (although I always lack the local knowledge I have for North Wales). Below Kirkfell, I took the smaller contouring path above Ennerdale and was joined by several other runners. This was mercifully sheltered out of the wind, but boggy. From the col at Beck Head, a steep climb leads to the top of Great Gable: tough. I fell on the descent, bashing my knee. This was painful and took a while to run off. Ferocious gusts as we got close to Sty Head, then bonking slightly as the intricate and lengthy route to distant Esk Hause took longer than anticipated. I was running out of food, but promised myself a snack to start the final climb up the Pike. Completely alone again for this: wild weather. From the summit of Scafell Pike (only the third time I've ever been up here!) I had some concerns about finding the Lingmell col as the terrain here is very confusing with paths in all directions. I took a direct bearing but ended up following another runner down the main Brown Tongue path. This cuts back towards the Lingmell Col but we went too far north, ending up above Piers Gill. An old wall meant it was easy to work out where we were, but it all meant an extra climb back over the col to pick up the path down to Lingmell nose: I lost 10-20 places and 15-20 minutes as a result of this small error. I knew the final descent from last year's Lingmell Dash British Championship race. It is very steep in places, and things weren't helped by another violent squall which blew in at this point: very windy and wet, but the end at Brackenclose was in sight as we got below the cloud base (200m?) for the first time since Greendale! An embarrassingly slow plod, but it is always satisfying and enjoyable to complete a long race in these conditions (around 40 dropped out or missed the cut-offs). It reminded me of many similar outings in the past: Welsh 1000s and Foel Fras in 2009, OMM in 2008, Mynydd Troed 2012 and many, many more. On balance, it was less extreme than all these: just standard bad summer conditions.
Peaks: Illgill Head (609m), Whin Rigg (635m), Seatallan (692m), Scoat Fell (841m), Pillar (892m), Great Gable (899m), Scafell Pike (978m)
Time/Position: 6.08 (65th from 130)
This is often considered to be the hardest fell race in the UK. Having done most of the other contenders I am inclined to agree, although it is all relative, particularly as I am abjectly unsuited to long fell races and have rarely tried to properly race them: preferring instead to jog round and enjoy them in 'tourist' mode. Today was no exception. I have very little climbing mileage in my legs, and not much distance, so it was something of a relief to get a poor forecast which made it acceptable to go into survival plod mode. Perfect conditions would have been very frustrating! After an evening meal at the Inn, heavy rain during the night continued to hammer our tents through the morning and was obviously set in for the day. In these circumstances, I pack a lot of kit, and I had a fairly heavy sac as the race set off for Illgill Head along the path Vic and I took last year for our long Lingmell Dash warm-up. This is a relatively short climb, although quite steep, and our small team of Buckley Runners stuck together for it: felt like Tattenhall Tough Team for a bit! A nice relaxed run along the ridge, wind not too bad, to Whin Rigg in around 45 minutes. Took the steep descent very easily, and we even had a brief view of Wastwater as we descended to Woodhow at the far end of the lake. Running along the bottom of the valley through woods and fields to Greendale was delightful: it even stopped raining for a bit. Then the great Joss Naylor handed me a drink before the next climb up Greendale Gill. The rain began in earnest again on the steep sides of the gill: the river in semi-spate as we crossed to gain the unpleasant slog up featureless terrain to the top of Seatallan. One of the toughest climbs of the day: wet and cold with the knowledge that the race had hardly even started. From Seatallan, the trickiest navigation of the route starts. Initially a well defined spur leads to the Pots of Ashness. Then we took a contouring line towards Haycock. I kept Nether Beck as a handrail, map and compass out throughout, and we emerged eventually on the main ridge over to Scoat Fell. We were now much higher, and the weather got correspondingly worse. Indeed, the section over Wind Gap to Pillar, exposed (as its name suggests) to the prevailing south-westerlies was probably the worst part of the race weather-wise. I was getting cold, and glad of my cautious tactics: took five minutes at the Pillar summit cairn to put my extra coat and trousers on as the wind howled overhead. Felt much better afterwards, but was now well behind the group I had been running with and on my own for the next section along the ridge to Looking Stead and the Black Sail Pass. Fortunately, I knew the rest of the route slightly (although I always lack the local knowledge I have for North Wales). Below Kirkfell, I took the smaller contouring path above Ennerdale and was joined by several other runners. This was mercifully sheltered out of the wind, but boggy. From the col at Beck Head, a steep climb leads to the top of Great Gable: tough. I fell on the descent, bashing my knee. This was painful and took a while to run off. Ferocious gusts as we got close to Sty Head, then bonking slightly as the intricate and lengthy route to distant Esk Hause took longer than anticipated. I was running out of food, but promised myself a snack to start the final climb up the Pike. Completely alone again for this: wild weather. From the summit of Scafell Pike (only the third time I've ever been up here!) I had some concerns about finding the Lingmell col as the terrain here is very confusing with paths in all directions. I took a direct bearing but ended up following another runner down the main Brown Tongue path. This cuts back towards the Lingmell Col but we went too far north, ending up above Piers Gill. An old wall meant it was easy to work out where we were, but it all meant an extra climb back over the col to pick up the path down to Lingmell nose: I lost 10-20 places and 15-20 minutes as a result of this small error. I knew the final descent from last year's Lingmell Dash British Championship race. It is very steep in places, and things weren't helped by another violent squall which blew in at this point: very windy and wet, but the end at Brackenclose was in sight as we got below the cloud base (200m?) for the first time since Greendale! An embarrassingly slow plod, but it is always satisfying and enjoyable to complete a long race in these conditions (around 40 dropped out or missed the cut-offs). It reminded me of many similar outings in the past: Welsh 1000s and Foel Fras in 2009, OMM in 2008, Mynydd Troed 2012 and many, many more. On balance, it was less extreme than all these: just standard bad summer conditions.
Sunday, July 03, 2016
Fairy Freckled Cow trail race
Race: Fairy Freckled Cow, Alwen trail race (North Wales trail running championships 11k)
Time/Position: 42.33 (2nd from 134)
It was a surprise to still be leading this race at the far end of the lake, where the bridge crosses the outflow and the main climb up onto Hiraethog begins. There was a decent-sized field, but compared to my two previous outings on the course a relative lack of runners at the sharper end. This was odd, as it was the first North Wales Trail Running Championships this year. A much younger runner was with me, going ahead occasionally then dropping behind. I thought he might blow up, but on the contrary he was quicker up the hill and I couldn't quite catch him on the undulating return leg. Conditions were pretty good, in contrast to last year's rain and 2014's heat. Sunny intervals, reasonably cool. As we approached the finish at the dam, I conceded defeat. I was just over half a minute behind the winner but well over two minutes ahead of third. The winner didn't qualify for the North Wales Championships so I was fortunate to get the overall win. Great race again, and weirdly similar (in terms of finishing position and general race dynamic) to the Two Lakes half marathon in the same area earlier this summer.
Time/Position: 42.33 (2nd from 134)
It was a surprise to still be leading this race at the far end of the lake, where the bridge crosses the outflow and the main climb up onto Hiraethog begins. There was a decent-sized field, but compared to my two previous outings on the course a relative lack of runners at the sharper end. This was odd, as it was the first North Wales Trail Running Championships this year. A much younger runner was with me, going ahead occasionally then dropping behind. I thought he might blow up, but on the contrary he was quicker up the hill and I couldn't quite catch him on the undulating return leg. Conditions were pretty good, in contrast to last year's rain and 2014's heat. Sunny intervals, reasonably cool. As we approached the finish at the dam, I conceded defeat. I was just over half a minute behind the winner but well over two minutes ahead of third. The winner didn't qualify for the North Wales Championships so I was fortunate to get the overall win. Great race again, and weirdly similar (in terms of finishing position and general race dynamic) to the Two Lakes half marathon in the same area earlier this summer.
Wednesday, June 29, 2016
Robbie Webster's Wobbler
Race: Robbie Webster's Wobbler, Frodsham (6m)
Time/Position: 43.53 (10th from 146)
Torrential rain earlier in the day had reduced these usually sandy paths to muddy quagmires in places. I did the race two years ago, and train on these paths quite regularly, but the race route is so complex and twisty that it would be very hard to reproduce! Great fun though - with a start in Frodsham and a finish on top of Beacon Hill. It also takes in the steep Woodhouses Hill and several other smaller climbs around the Helsby/Frodsham hills. In terms of overall feel, it is like a long and hard XC race with some longer fell race style climbs thrown in: an intense session which is hard to pace. My time was well down on two years ago, perhaps because of the mud, or the lower start, or general lack of race fitness. This race feels a bit like a rollercoaster at times, quick descents, sharp turns and short climbs: all rather exciting. Buckley won the team prize, with Jez, Simon E and myself counting.
Time/Position: 43.53 (10th from 146)
Torrential rain earlier in the day had reduced these usually sandy paths to muddy quagmires in places. I did the race two years ago, and train on these paths quite regularly, but the race route is so complex and twisty that it would be very hard to reproduce! Great fun though - with a start in Frodsham and a finish on top of Beacon Hill. It also takes in the steep Woodhouses Hill and several other smaller climbs around the Helsby/Frodsham hills. In terms of overall feel, it is like a long and hard XC race with some longer fell race style climbs thrown in: an intense session which is hard to pace. My time was well down on two years ago, perhaps because of the mud, or the lower start, or general lack of race fitness. This race feels a bit like a rollercoaster at times, quick descents, sharp turns and short climbs: all rather exciting. Buckley won the team prize, with Jez, Simon E and myself counting.
Sunday, June 26, 2016
Moel y Gamelin fell race
Race: Moel y Gamelin (10m+/3000ft/AM)
Time/Position: 1.24.34 (8th from 70)
There was a time when I really enjoyed this course, but in recent years I always seem to struggle to pace it. I must have done it 7 or 8 times, and once ran 1.20. But last year I blew quite badly on the long XC section above Carrog where I used to pick up places. This year, I took it steadily across the ridge over Moel y Faen, Gamelin and Morfydd, and did at least enjoy the long flatter section at the far end. I did pick up a few places but then lost them again for the steep climb back over Gamelin where I really suffered, yet again! Ideal conditions, cool and cloudy.
Time/Position: 1.24.34 (8th from 70)
There was a time when I really enjoyed this course, but in recent years I always seem to struggle to pace it. I must have done it 7 or 8 times, and once ran 1.20. But last year I blew quite badly on the long XC section above Carrog where I used to pick up places. This year, I took it steadily across the ridge over Moel y Faen, Gamelin and Morfydd, and did at least enjoy the long flatter section at the far end. I did pick up a few places but then lost them again for the steep climb back over Gamelin where I really suffered, yet again! Ideal conditions, cool and cloudy.
Wednesday, June 22, 2016
Carreg Wastad climbing
Crag: Carreg Wastad, Llanberis Pass
Routes: Skylon (HS 4b,4a:led p.2), Crackstone Rib (S 4a:led p.2), Ribstone Crack (VS 4c,4a:sec)
All routes I have done before, but a valuable and enjoyable session none the less. A bit of light drizzle as we sat with a coffee in Nant Peris, but prospects looked quite good as Vic led the first pitch of Skylon. I led this a few years ago, finding it easy. Today, I was initially puzzled by the crux, probably an indication that I haven't done much recently. It goes easily to the small overhang, which I wrongly probed to the right. Going left gives a distinct, but short, crux: much harder than the rest of the route. A few shelves lead to the belay, after which I led the slabby top pitch on sloping holds. It was then time for the classic Crackstone Rib, probably the best Severe in Wales, for the third time (spread over a quarter of a century). Vic led the traverse pitch which leads to the glorious juggy rib, beautifully positioned above the valley. I then led the top pitch, up the chimney to a large flake, then the very brief technical hand traverse - probably the only tricky move on the route - to another flake and the finish. We just had time to nip up the strenuous Ribstone Crack in one giant pitch: another climb I have done before and one that demands a certain amount of technique to climb comfortably. Top of the grade, steep and awkward with two distinct cruxes.
Routes: Skylon (HS 4b,4a:led p.2), Crackstone Rib (S 4a:led p.2), Ribstone Crack (VS 4c,4a:sec)
All routes I have done before, but a valuable and enjoyable session none the less. A bit of light drizzle as we sat with a coffee in Nant Peris, but prospects looked quite good as Vic led the first pitch of Skylon. I led this a few years ago, finding it easy. Today, I was initially puzzled by the crux, probably an indication that I haven't done much recently. It goes easily to the small overhang, which I wrongly probed to the right. Going left gives a distinct, but short, crux: much harder than the rest of the route. A few shelves lead to the belay, after which I led the slabby top pitch on sloping holds. It was then time for the classic Crackstone Rib, probably the best Severe in Wales, for the third time (spread over a quarter of a century). Vic led the traverse pitch which leads to the glorious juggy rib, beautifully positioned above the valley. I then led the top pitch, up the chimney to a large flake, then the very brief technical hand traverse - probably the only tricky move on the route - to another flake and the finish. We just had time to nip up the strenuous Ribstone Crack in one giant pitch: another climb I have done before and one that demands a certain amount of technique to climb comfortably. Top of the grade, steep and awkward with two distinct cruxes.
Friday, June 17, 2016
Tattenhall Tough Team race
Race: Tattenhall Tough Team (9m+)
Time/Position: 63.56 (7th from 185 [2nd team from 65: 1st Veteran team])
This event had been chosen as one for Buckley to blitz with as many teams as possible. Our team ('Blue Genes') reprised the line-up of four years ago: me, Jez, Eric. Always a very enjoyable team event, and only the third time I've done it. A full five minutes down on my two previous outings on this race, although the course has changed slightly with a longer run-in back to the social club. We all ran together for the long road section up towards the Peckforton hills, beautiful sunny weather, not too hot. Jez sped off as we reached the off-road section, which is not Eric's favoured terrain. It takes a great route through these hills, weaving round until reaching the infamous railway. I waited for Eric at the top, and he recovered well through the flatter fields which eventually lead back down to the road. We seemed to have a decent gap on the third placed runner from a few other clubs and eventually finished second team overall, and first veteran's team.
Time/Position: 63.56 (7th from 185 [2nd team from 65: 1st Veteran team])
This event had been chosen as one for Buckley to blitz with as many teams as possible. Our team ('Blue Genes') reprised the line-up of four years ago: me, Jez, Eric. Always a very enjoyable team event, and only the third time I've done it. A full five minutes down on my two previous outings on this race, although the course has changed slightly with a longer run-in back to the social club. We all ran together for the long road section up towards the Peckforton hills, beautiful sunny weather, not too hot. Jez sped off as we reached the off-road section, which is not Eric's favoured terrain. It takes a great route through these hills, weaving round until reaching the infamous railway. I waited for Eric at the top, and he recovered well through the flatter fields which eventually lead back down to the road. We seemed to have a decent gap on the third placed runner from a few other clubs and eventually finished second team overall, and first veteran's team.
Friday, June 10, 2016
Limoges airport-centre runs
Probably more accurate to call these 'jogs' blended with fast walking. Still, three different routes between the city centre of Limoges and the airport in 27 hours must be some kind of record (albeit an utterly pointless one). I remember reading Will Self's Psychogeography account of walking from London to Heathrow and then from JFK to NYC, and thought this would make a provincial French alternative! I landed in the rather less glamorous Limoges airport before 9.30am with a lot of time to kill, so had a relaxing coffee and croissant at the airport, sitting outside, just to acclimatise. No public transport into town, so I planned to get last night's race out of my legs with a specially constructed route taking the country lanes into the city centre. It worked fairly well. I didn't have much baggage, so could move fairly quickly down quiet roads. My route to the centre went on an indirect southerly loop via La Breuil, La Foret and Landouge - where I entered the Limoges suburbs. I arrived in the market near the old Rue de la Boucherie just before midday: perfect timing for a superb lunch of Limousin charcuterie followed by veal breast with a rosemary jus and frites maison. The odd glass of claret too. The next day, I ran back via a different northerly loop along the Rue de St Gence. This was an even more affluent suburban area, so I had to double back to find my favourite kind of local restaurant. Again, I struck gold - this time on the Rue de Bellac. Basse Cote, local goat's cheese, unlimited wine, pain perdu and myriad other culinary delights, before I continued along the even longer northern loop back to the airport to meet Steve and Ceri. A legendary weekend ensued.
Wednesday, June 08, 2016
The Beast race
Race: Up the Beast fell race (7.5k/2000ft)
Time/Position: 40.47 (6th from 91)
Tonight's outing, although badly timed just before my trip to France, at least kept up my record of running in every one of these races since it was launched: this is the ninth year I think. A route change this year, with a harder finish which doubles back into the highpoint of the woods above Maeshafn. I didn't run very well, but didn't expect to. Probably started a bit too quickly, so was blowing on the Beast itself and never really recovered. The extra hill in the woods finished me off, although it didn't make any difference to the final positions as I couldn't catch Simon E ahead and I just held off those behind. After a shower and meal at home, I drove direct to Leeds-Bradford airport for a few hours sleep in the car before my flight to Limoges.
Time/Position: 40.47 (6th from 91)
Tonight's outing, although badly timed just before my trip to France, at least kept up my record of running in every one of these races since it was launched: this is the ninth year I think. A route change this year, with a harder finish which doubles back into the highpoint of the woods above Maeshafn. I didn't run very well, but didn't expect to. Probably started a bit too quickly, so was blowing on the Beast itself and never really recovered. The extra hill in the woods finished me off, although it didn't make any difference to the final positions as I couldn't catch Simon E ahead and I just held off those behind. After a shower and meal at home, I drove direct to Leeds-Bradford airport for a few hours sleep in the car before my flight to Limoges.
Saturday, June 04, 2016
Sron na Creise scramble
Peaks: Sron na Creise, Stob a' Ghlais Choire (996m)
Area: Black Mount/Glencoe, Scotland
Routes: North Ridge (M/III:sol), North East Ridge (II:sol)
I have driven past Sron na Creise dozens of times and often eyed the obvious north ridge straight up the peak, which is a well-known scramble. The plan was for K to drop me off in Glen Etive, then I would complete this obvious scrambling mini-circuit as quickly as possible, then meet them all in the White Corries ski cafe - from where we would continue our homeward journey. It worked very well as a short and intense outing, with a great deal of rock to enjoy. From Glen Etive, I crossed the river then ran along the fairly gently inclined moor straight towards the ridge that runs down to the left of the obvious stream gully. There was an obvious alternative right of the gully, but the true ridge line left of the gully gets to grips with rock quite quickly and is much steeper. It took around 20 minutes of running to get to the base. The scrambling was excellent: good, clean rock, and a lot of it. An initial section of steep, clean slabs, leads to an easing before a series of shorter walls leads up to a more intimidating tower clearly visible as the steepest section from the valley. The rock runs to superb holds and remains clean and solid throughout. Hugely enjoyable, with good scrambling even as the ridge line begins to fragment higher up: less than an hour from glen to summit. Temperatures were cooler on the summit, with good views across to the Buachaille, and over the Mamores to Ben Nevis. The occasional shaft of sunlight peeking through the high cloud. From the top of Sron na Creise, I ran over to Stob a'Ghlais Choire, then straight down the NE Ridge - with the northern end of the Black Mount beyond. The NE ridge gives an easier and less distinctive route on to the Black Mount than the North, but still gives some scrambling. With no prior knowledge, it is slightly intimidating initially in descent, but a bit of weaving enables the base of the valley (Cam Ghleann) to be gained by a couple of enjoyable rocky gullies. A long run with an unavoidable diversion round the bottom of the side spur of Creag Dhubh eventually gains an indistinct path east to the White Corries, where we continued the journey home with me pouring with sweat. Around 95 minutes for this round.
Area: Black Mount/Glencoe, Scotland
Routes: North Ridge (M/III:sol), North East Ridge (II:sol)
I have driven past Sron na Creise dozens of times and often eyed the obvious north ridge straight up the peak, which is a well-known scramble. The plan was for K to drop me off in Glen Etive, then I would complete this obvious scrambling mini-circuit as quickly as possible, then meet them all in the White Corries ski cafe - from where we would continue our homeward journey. It worked very well as a short and intense outing, with a great deal of rock to enjoy. From Glen Etive, I crossed the river then ran along the fairly gently inclined moor straight towards the ridge that runs down to the left of the obvious stream gully. There was an obvious alternative right of the gully, but the true ridge line left of the gully gets to grips with rock quite quickly and is much steeper. It took around 20 minutes of running to get to the base. The scrambling was excellent: good, clean rock, and a lot of it. An initial section of steep, clean slabs, leads to an easing before a series of shorter walls leads up to a more intimidating tower clearly visible as the steepest section from the valley. The rock runs to superb holds and remains clean and solid throughout. Hugely enjoyable, with good scrambling even as the ridge line begins to fragment higher up: less than an hour from glen to summit. Temperatures were cooler on the summit, with good views across to the Buachaille, and over the Mamores to Ben Nevis. The occasional shaft of sunlight peeking through the high cloud. From the top of Sron na Creise, I ran over to Stob a'Ghlais Choire, then straight down the NE Ridge - with the northern end of the Black Mount beyond. The NE ridge gives an easier and less distinctive route on to the Black Mount than the North, but still gives some scrambling. With no prior knowledge, it is slightly intimidating initially in descent, but a bit of weaving enables the base of the valley (Cam Ghleann) to be gained by a couple of enjoyable rocky gullies. A long run with an unavoidable diversion round the bottom of the side spur of Creag Dhubh eventually gains an indistinct path east to the White Corries, where we continued the journey home with me pouring with sweat. Around 95 minutes for this round.
Friday, June 03, 2016
Beinn na Seilg run and climbing
Peak/Crag: Beinn na Seilg, Ardnamurchan
Routes: Gabbro Slab (D:sol), Faradh Dubh (VD:sol/sh), Identity Crisis (VS 4c:sh), South-West Buttress (M:sol), Trident (VD/HS 4c:sh)
This was the hardest crag of all to find, given the paucity of information I had (just a scrawled note that it lay on the 'western slopes'). As the local Kilchoan crag, however, I was determined to find it and headed out in the late afternoon after sailing back from a lovely day in Tobermory. The weather remained perfect: warm, crystal clear, light easterly winds. I ran up to the Lochan Gleann Locha, as I had done on Tuesday, and scoured the western slopes beyond this. A mistake, as I was later to find out. There are numerous remote crags low down on the hill facing west, but none was correct. After some exhausting running up and down, I decided to go to the summit (which I wanted to do anyway). On emerging at the cairn, I immediately spied the crag, a really impressive 50m sweep of gabbro just below the 'secondary' summit that was obvious from our cottage. First of all, though, I enjoyed the view from the top. Indeed, as the sun began to drop I would honestly rate it perhaps the best I have ever experienced in Scotland (and that is up against some pretty stiff competition!). Directly above the western fringe of Ardnamurchan: wonderful views of the Isles, Mull and Ring Dyke in a beautiful soft light as the sun began to drop over the Atlantic. Memorable. I scampered down to the crag, which currently has no more than 20 routes on it. There is immense scope for development: at least 100 routes seemed possible if the shorter flanks are also developed. The main Hebrides Wall is a lovely sweep of gabbro slabs, at the upper limit of shunting feasibility. Indeed, the rope initially failed to reach the bottom so I soloed up a diff before following the pleasant line of what I took to be Faradh Dubh up the central slab. Identity Crisis was a more obvious harder line, taking a steep crack towards the left of the crag. Some tricky moves initially up a slanting groove, then easier above. All of these were 40m pitches. Trident was slightly longer, if anything. It took the obvious three flake 'trident' in the centre of the crag then stepped right. I think the route then goes even further right, but because of the line of the rope I had to go directly up. This gave two or three hardish moves on unhelpful side pulls: more like VS 4c temporarily. Above, I rejoined the original line. During one of the descents, I nipped up the scramble of the South West Buttress. In glorious sunshine, with the sun dropping over the sea below, not a person, car or house (one, maybe!) visible throughout the entire landscape, this was absolutely glorious. When I'd finished this brief session, I spent a few minutes just enjoying the stunning panorama whilst sitting near the cairn: total peace and solitude. Ran back down to Kilchoan in time to prepare our final evening meal.
Routes: Gabbro Slab (D:sol), Faradh Dubh (VD:sol/sh), Identity Crisis (VS 4c:sh), South-West Buttress (M:sol), Trident (VD/HS 4c:sh)
This was the hardest crag of all to find, given the paucity of information I had (just a scrawled note that it lay on the 'western slopes'). As the local Kilchoan crag, however, I was determined to find it and headed out in the late afternoon after sailing back from a lovely day in Tobermory. The weather remained perfect: warm, crystal clear, light easterly winds. I ran up to the Lochan Gleann Locha, as I had done on Tuesday, and scoured the western slopes beyond this. A mistake, as I was later to find out. There are numerous remote crags low down on the hill facing west, but none was correct. After some exhausting running up and down, I decided to go to the summit (which I wanted to do anyway). On emerging at the cairn, I immediately spied the crag, a really impressive 50m sweep of gabbro just below the 'secondary' summit that was obvious from our cottage. First of all, though, I enjoyed the view from the top. Indeed, as the sun began to drop I would honestly rate it perhaps the best I have ever experienced in Scotland (and that is up against some pretty stiff competition!). Directly above the western fringe of Ardnamurchan: wonderful views of the Isles, Mull and Ring Dyke in a beautiful soft light as the sun began to drop over the Atlantic. Memorable. I scampered down to the crag, which currently has no more than 20 routes on it. There is immense scope for development: at least 100 routes seemed possible if the shorter flanks are also developed. The main Hebrides Wall is a lovely sweep of gabbro slabs, at the upper limit of shunting feasibility. Indeed, the rope initially failed to reach the bottom so I soloed up a diff before following the pleasant line of what I took to be Faradh Dubh up the central slab. Identity Crisis was a more obvious harder line, taking a steep crack towards the left of the crag. Some tricky moves initially up a slanting groove, then easier above. All of these were 40m pitches. Trident was slightly longer, if anything. It took the obvious three flake 'trident' in the centre of the crag then stepped right. I think the route then goes even further right, but because of the line of the rope I had to go directly up. This gave two or three hardish moves on unhelpful side pulls: more like VS 4c temporarily. Above, I rejoined the original line. During one of the descents, I nipped up the scramble of the South West Buttress. In glorious sunshine, with the sun dropping over the sea below, not a person, car or house (one, maybe!) visible throughout the entire landscape, this was absolutely glorious. When I'd finished this brief session, I spent a few minutes just enjoying the stunning panorama whilst sitting near the cairn: total peace and solitude. Ran back down to Kilchoan in time to prepare our final evening meal.
Thursday, June 02, 2016
Achnaha climbing
Crag: Button Slab (Achnaha)
Routes: Mickey (S:sol), Pash (S 4b:sol), Ludo (VD:sol), Felix (VD:sol)
Crag: Achnaha Buttress
Routes: Soul Searching (VS 4c:sh)
Crag: Black Slab (Achnaha/Sanna)
Routes: Sanna Seaming (HS 4b:sol)
Crag: Graffiti Slab (Achnaha/Sanna)
Routes: Triple Cracks (VD:sol), Mini Dyke (VD:sol)
Without a guidebook or large scale map it was proving difficult to locate these Ardnamurchan crags. Most were a fair walk from the road, all in stunning remote locations on the famous volcanic 'ring dyke' of small peaks that characterises this unique geological landscape. I knew there was an 'Achnaha Buttress' and spied a crag I thought it might be on another pre-breakfast outing. Still cold and blowy, with a little more cloud initially (not much though!). I trekked across a wild landscape, crossing the Allt Sanna river, then over an awkward series of subsidiary gabbro ridges - riddled with smaller crags - until emerging at a larger buttress. This was the place, but first I jogged up to the nearby Button Slab: a delightful slab of rough gabbro with four easy routes. They were all gentle: I started with the line up the middle, which went up the slab to a steepening taken on huge holds. I also did a few lines up two obvious cracks further left on this crag. Shunting on the main crag was tricky, with few belays on top, but I did manage to sample Soul Searching at a mild VS 4c, which goes up a steep flake to a pinnacle before some pleasant wall climbing. On the way back to the car, I stopped off at the immaculate black 'dome' slab that doesn't (apparently) have any routes on it. It must have been climbed, however, as it has three or four very eye-catching lines that looked (from below) like they might go at E1 5a: all on absolutely immaculate rock with superb friction. I did the easier 'seam' to the left at around HS 4b. Finally, I did a few rather contrived and escapable routes on 'graffiti slab', the broken 40ft crag with feint scrawled graffiti nearest the road. Delightful slabby padding in the morning sunshine although, again, people have presumably played on this for years. My first route took the obvious triple crack system, broken by ledges, on the right: I then did the miniature seam, quite delicate, up the darker slab further left. Home for breakfast at 10.15am!
Routes: Mickey (S:sol), Pash (S 4b:sol), Ludo (VD:sol), Felix (VD:sol)
Crag: Achnaha Buttress
Routes: Soul Searching (VS 4c:sh)
Crag: Black Slab (Achnaha/Sanna)
Routes: Sanna Seaming (HS 4b:sol)
Crag: Graffiti Slab (Achnaha/Sanna)
Routes: Triple Cracks (VD:sol), Mini Dyke (VD:sol)
Without a guidebook or large scale map it was proving difficult to locate these Ardnamurchan crags. Most were a fair walk from the road, all in stunning remote locations on the famous volcanic 'ring dyke' of small peaks that characterises this unique geological landscape. I knew there was an 'Achnaha Buttress' and spied a crag I thought it might be on another pre-breakfast outing. Still cold and blowy, with a little more cloud initially (not much though!). I trekked across a wild landscape, crossing the Allt Sanna river, then over an awkward series of subsidiary gabbro ridges - riddled with smaller crags - until emerging at a larger buttress. This was the place, but first I jogged up to the nearby Button Slab: a delightful slab of rough gabbro with four easy routes. They were all gentle: I started with the line up the middle, which went up the slab to a steepening taken on huge holds. I also did a few lines up two obvious cracks further left on this crag. Shunting on the main crag was tricky, with few belays on top, but I did manage to sample Soul Searching at a mild VS 4c, which goes up a steep flake to a pinnacle before some pleasant wall climbing. On the way back to the car, I stopped off at the immaculate black 'dome' slab that doesn't (apparently) have any routes on it. It must have been climbed, however, as it has three or four very eye-catching lines that looked (from below) like they might go at E1 5a: all on absolutely immaculate rock with superb friction. I did the easier 'seam' to the left at around HS 4b. Finally, I did a few rather contrived and escapable routes on 'graffiti slab', the broken 40ft crag with feint scrawled graffiti nearest the road. Delightful slabby padding in the morning sunshine although, again, people have presumably played on this for years. My first route took the obvious triple crack system, broken by ledges, on the right: I then did the miniature seam, quite delicate, up the darker slab further left. Home for breakfast at 10.15am!
Wednesday, June 01, 2016
Ardnamurchan Lighthouse climbing
Crag: Ardnamurchan Point (Ardnamurchan)
Routes: The Chimney (VD:sol/sh), Rick Diculous (VD:sol/sh), Eigg Scramble (D:sol), Home for Tea (S:sol/sh)
The wave-cut platform at the base of this crag is the most westerly few feet of land on the mainland of Britain, and is unlikely to have been trodden by many. That doesn't mean very much in these parts, with islands all around, but I have fond memories of Land's End's famous Long Climb in 1995, where you feel like you are climbing from the Atlantic into Britain. Ardnamurchan Point is further west than Land's End, and runs to a small crag that gives some nice gabbro climbs on rough rock almost directly below the famous lighthouse. I set up a shunt for some of the routes, clipping in at times partly because I was just guessing the lines of the routes. The first two were obvious, however. The distinct chimney is fun, as is the route up the arete on sharp holds. Much further right, I enjoyed a wonderful romp up a series of flake cracks on huge positive holds - preceded by a few awkward steps. I took this to be the line of Eigg Scramble, and I took Home for Tea to be the obvious clean open book corner/groove in the middle of the crag: the strongest line here. This was just a short family outing, immediately after lunch of local salmon at the nearby Sonachan hotel.
Routes: The Chimney (VD:sol/sh), Rick Diculous (VD:sol/sh), Eigg Scramble (D:sol), Home for Tea (S:sol/sh)
The wave-cut platform at the base of this crag is the most westerly few feet of land on the mainland of Britain, and is unlikely to have been trodden by many. That doesn't mean very much in these parts, with islands all around, but I have fond memories of Land's End's famous Long Climb in 1995, where you feel like you are climbing from the Atlantic into Britain. Ardnamurchan Point is further west than Land's End, and runs to a small crag that gives some nice gabbro climbs on rough rock almost directly below the famous lighthouse. I set up a shunt for some of the routes, clipping in at times partly because I was just guessing the lines of the routes. The first two were obvious, however. The distinct chimney is fun, as is the route up the arete on sharp holds. Much further right, I enjoyed a wonderful romp up a series of flake cracks on huge positive holds - preceded by a few awkward steps. I took this to be the line of Eigg Scramble, and I took Home for Tea to be the obvious clean open book corner/groove in the middle of the crag: the strongest line here. This was just a short family outing, immediately after lunch of local salmon at the nearby Sonachan hotel.
Beinn Resipol
Peak: Beinn Resipol (845m)
Area: Sunart, Scotland
A distinctive peak which attracts the eye from most directions, Beinn Resipol was an obvious option for an early morning run. Apart from Ben More, it was the only real mountain accessible from Kilchoan - but it was still a 45-50 minute drive down singletrack roads, a good indication of West Ardnamurchan's wonderful isolation. I set off very early as the family slept, as is my usual practice, and was running at 7am. The route goes from the Resipole campsite on the shore of Loch Sunart, through bluebell woods to gain a good track which curves round following the line of the Allt Mhic Chiarain. The track curves round to the east, then peters out into a boggy section before becoming a less distinct path rising towards the main peak. Ahead, to my great surprise, two 'walkers'. Oddly, I didn't seem to be gaining on them, despite my steady uphill jog and striding (again, I was treating the outing as training for the fell running season). It was only when I emerged at the rocky summit that I discovered that they too were runners, clad in Innov8s and carrying light OMM sacs. My mirror image: on family holidays, squeezing a mountain in to a couple of hours before breakfast to keep the rest of the day free (this has been my tactic for seven years!) Beinn Resipol is famed for its view, given its location on the western fringe of the Highlands. The perfect clarity this morning allowed for a full appreciation, although a chilly easterly blew over the summit (it had been completely calm during the ascent). West over Ardnamurchan towards Ben Hiant and the islands initially attracted my attention. Then south over Mull, and inland to the Mamores, Ben Nevis and more distant peaks to the south like Ben More and Cruachan. Sgurr na Ciche on Knoydart was also very obvious, bringing back memories of my chilly 1998 trip. Closer at hand were the superb looking mountains of Ardgour and Moidart, beyond the wild Loch Shiel. After drinking in the view, I pelted down the same way and was back in Kilchoan for breakfast.
Area: Sunart, Scotland
A distinctive peak which attracts the eye from most directions, Beinn Resipol was an obvious option for an early morning run. Apart from Ben More, it was the only real mountain accessible from Kilchoan - but it was still a 45-50 minute drive down singletrack roads, a good indication of West Ardnamurchan's wonderful isolation. I set off very early as the family slept, as is my usual practice, and was running at 7am. The route goes from the Resipole campsite on the shore of Loch Sunart, through bluebell woods to gain a good track which curves round following the line of the Allt Mhic Chiarain. The track curves round to the east, then peters out into a boggy section before becoming a less distinct path rising towards the main peak. Ahead, to my great surprise, two 'walkers'. Oddly, I didn't seem to be gaining on them, despite my steady uphill jog and striding (again, I was treating the outing as training for the fell running season). It was only when I emerged at the rocky summit that I discovered that they too were runners, clad in Innov8s and carrying light OMM sacs. My mirror image: on family holidays, squeezing a mountain in to a couple of hours before breakfast to keep the rest of the day free (this has been my tactic for seven years!) Beinn Resipol is famed for its view, given its location on the western fringe of the Highlands. The perfect clarity this morning allowed for a full appreciation, although a chilly easterly blew over the summit (it had been completely calm during the ascent). West over Ardnamurchan towards Ben Hiant and the islands initially attracted my attention. Then south over Mull, and inland to the Mamores, Ben Nevis and more distant peaks to the south like Ben More and Cruachan. Sgurr na Ciche on Knoydart was also very obvious, bringing back memories of my chilly 1998 trip. Closer at hand were the superb looking mountains of Ardgour and Moidart, beyond the wild Loch Shiel. After drinking in the view, I pelted down the same way and was back in Kilchoan for breakfast.
Tuesday, May 31, 2016
Sanna Bay bouldering and climbing
Crag: Sanna Bay
Routes: Yee Haa (V0), Maverick (V0), Goose (V0), Crashed and Burned (V1), Iceman (V1), Ladies Room (V0), Charlie's Crack (VB)
Crag: Sanna West/Marquee Buttress
Routes: Elephant's Head Crack (VD:sol), Portuairk Seam (HVD:sol), Sanna Slab (S 4b:sol), Marquee slabs (M:sol)
One of the most perfect beaches anywhere, we were all eager to get back to Sanna after our first visit on Sunday. This time, we walked in from the car park in Sanna itself (a collection of houses by the sea) through the large dune systems. The day was perfect, again, not a cloud in the sky. And this time I'd packed the rock boots and chalk bag. I knew there was bouldering on the most remote, southerly beach: indeed, I had seen two couples climbing there on Sunday. I don't like bouldering much, but I realised quite quickly that this 'crag' wasn't really bouldering: more like miniature routes. The rock was perfect gabbro, running to superb holds and giving perfect friction. This meant that all the routes (at least the ones I did) felt more like short 5m HVS's than technical boulder problems. The crag is fairly high in places, too, although the perfect sandy landings seem almost too good to be true, as does the general location and ambience on this utterly idyllic beach. M was on photoshoot duty and did a fine job of capturing the essence of the place. I did numerous 'routes' whilst here: hard to remember exactly what, but the juggy flake crack in the centre and the steep wall further right stuck out. Quite a few good natural groove lines too. After lunch and a paddle, I jogged up to the crag I dubbed 'Marquee Buttress' after its elongated tent shape. This might have been Sanna West, which does have a few easy routes on it. If so, I may have done Adder and Subtractor at VD/S. If not (and I had no real way of telling) then I suppose these are very modest new routes. The crag is the tent-shaped slab visible from the beach: a 10 minute walk uphill from the beach. The angle is very gentle, perhaps a little too gentle to be worthwhile, but the rock and general situation is superb. Perfect, clean gabbro. The 'Y' shaped crack (the 'elephant's head' feature) gave a good route with two variation finishes up delicious narrow flake cracks which went up either side of the 'trunk and ears': VD at the most. The thinner seam to its left gave a slightly harder route, again slabby, while the blanker slab to the right gave a more delicate line at around S 4b on small ripples. All routes led to a ledge, above which the obvious finish took a steeper wall up a line of jugs. I then scrambled up the crest of the buttress, no more than Moderate - but 100ft+. Astonishing views over Sanna Bay to Eigg and Rum from this vantage point high on the hillside. Later on, I took a pre-dinner run up to the lakes on Beinn na Seilg and saw a white-tailed eagle at close range (but I settled for some little lines on Stacha Dubh having failed to find the crag that was supposed to be on the 'western slopes'!).
Routes: Yee Haa (V0), Maverick (V0), Goose (V0), Crashed and Burned (V1), Iceman (V1), Ladies Room (V0), Charlie's Crack (VB)
Crag: Sanna West/Marquee Buttress
Routes: Elephant's Head Crack (VD:sol), Portuairk Seam (HVD:sol), Sanna Slab (S 4b:sol), Marquee slabs (M:sol)
One of the most perfect beaches anywhere, we were all eager to get back to Sanna after our first visit on Sunday. This time, we walked in from the car park in Sanna itself (a collection of houses by the sea) through the large dune systems. The day was perfect, again, not a cloud in the sky. And this time I'd packed the rock boots and chalk bag. I knew there was bouldering on the most remote, southerly beach: indeed, I had seen two couples climbing there on Sunday. I don't like bouldering much, but I realised quite quickly that this 'crag' wasn't really bouldering: more like miniature routes. The rock was perfect gabbro, running to superb holds and giving perfect friction. This meant that all the routes (at least the ones I did) felt more like short 5m HVS's than technical boulder problems. The crag is fairly high in places, too, although the perfect sandy landings seem almost too good to be true, as does the general location and ambience on this utterly idyllic beach. M was on photoshoot duty and did a fine job of capturing the essence of the place. I did numerous 'routes' whilst here: hard to remember exactly what, but the juggy flake crack in the centre and the steep wall further right stuck out. Quite a few good natural groove lines too. After lunch and a paddle, I jogged up to the crag I dubbed 'Marquee Buttress' after its elongated tent shape. This might have been Sanna West, which does have a few easy routes on it. If so, I may have done Adder and Subtractor at VD/S. If not (and I had no real way of telling) then I suppose these are very modest new routes. The crag is the tent-shaped slab visible from the beach: a 10 minute walk uphill from the beach. The angle is very gentle, perhaps a little too gentle to be worthwhile, but the rock and general situation is superb. Perfect, clean gabbro. The 'Y' shaped crack (the 'elephant's head' feature) gave a good route with two variation finishes up delicious narrow flake cracks which went up either side of the 'trunk and ears': VD at the most. The thinner seam to its left gave a slightly harder route, again slabby, while the blanker slab to the right gave a more delicate line at around S 4b on small ripples. All routes led to a ledge, above which the obvious finish took a steeper wall up a line of jugs. I then scrambled up the crest of the buttress, no more than Moderate - but 100ft+. Astonishing views over Sanna Bay to Eigg and Rum from this vantage point high on the hillside. Later on, I took a pre-dinner run up to the lakes on Beinn na Seilg and saw a white-tailed eagle at close range (but I settled for some little lines on Stacha Dubh having failed to find the crag that was supposed to be on the 'western slopes'!).
Monday, May 30, 2016
Ben More run
Peaks: A'Chioch (867m), Ben More (966m)
Area: Isle of Mull, Scotland
As we were staying very close to the Kilchoan-Tobermory ferry, a day on Mull seemed inevitable. We went across to the south of the island two years ago, but had never explored by car. The day dawned even clearer, and we enjoyed a memorable crossing of the Sound of Mull looking up at yesterday's peak of Ben Hiant as we sailed. It was then a very pleasant drive along the shores of the Sound to Salen, then crossing the isthmus to Loch na Keal on the western side of Mull. This feels wilder and more remote, although Ben More is obviously a popular objective, as befits its status as the only island Munro outside Skye. It is a very fine peak indeed, although the normal tourist route is a nasty slog from sea level. Instead, I headed up Gleann na Beinne Fada. This was hot but relatively gentle and runnable the whole way to the steepening before the col between Beinn Fhada and my first objective, A'Chioch. Time was very limited (two hours in total for the full traverse), as the family had gone for a drink in Salen and I'd arranged to be collected opposite the obvious island of Eorsa. Superb views inland as I crested the ridge at the col, then opening out to sea as I embarked on the mild scramble leading to the top of A'Chioch. The ridge is quite distinctive and you can get a reasonable amount of rock if you stick to the crest. From A'Chioch, Ben More looks magnificent: a classic pyramidal peak. Just a few fluffy clouds above as I ran down the broad ridge to the next, narrower col. From here, the scrambling continues in the same vein, although it is better and more continuous. Again, I stuck religiously to the crest and enjoyed the final climb immensely. Fabulous views of sea, loch and mountain as I reached the top. The Paps of Jura immediately obvious, bringing fond memories of the race in 2014. Scarba, Iona and (much closer) Ulva were all clearly visible, as was most of the topography of Mull, a wonderfully varied island. No water or food, so I pelted down the tedious tourist route, joining the path along the Abhainn Dhiseig before branching off north over tussocky moorland to meet the family at the appointed place, very hot by now. Quite tiring to fit all this into two hours, but a wonderful and memorable circuit. We took a leisurely route back to Tobermory and the ferry, stopping at various points of interest along the way.
Area: Isle of Mull, Scotland
As we were staying very close to the Kilchoan-Tobermory ferry, a day on Mull seemed inevitable. We went across to the south of the island two years ago, but had never explored by car. The day dawned even clearer, and we enjoyed a memorable crossing of the Sound of Mull looking up at yesterday's peak of Ben Hiant as we sailed. It was then a very pleasant drive along the shores of the Sound to Salen, then crossing the isthmus to Loch na Keal on the western side of Mull. This feels wilder and more remote, although Ben More is obviously a popular objective, as befits its status as the only island Munro outside Skye. It is a very fine peak indeed, although the normal tourist route is a nasty slog from sea level. Instead, I headed up Gleann na Beinne Fada. This was hot but relatively gentle and runnable the whole way to the steepening before the col between Beinn Fhada and my first objective, A'Chioch. Time was very limited (two hours in total for the full traverse), as the family had gone for a drink in Salen and I'd arranged to be collected opposite the obvious island of Eorsa. Superb views inland as I crested the ridge at the col, then opening out to sea as I embarked on the mild scramble leading to the top of A'Chioch. The ridge is quite distinctive and you can get a reasonable amount of rock if you stick to the crest. From A'Chioch, Ben More looks magnificent: a classic pyramidal peak. Just a few fluffy clouds above as I ran down the broad ridge to the next, narrower col. From here, the scrambling continues in the same vein, although it is better and more continuous. Again, I stuck religiously to the crest and enjoyed the final climb immensely. Fabulous views of sea, loch and mountain as I reached the top. The Paps of Jura immediately obvious, bringing fond memories of the race in 2014. Scarba, Iona and (much closer) Ulva were all clearly visible, as was most of the topography of Mull, a wonderfully varied island. No water or food, so I pelted down the tedious tourist route, joining the path along the Abhainn Dhiseig before branching off north over tussocky moorland to meet the family at the appointed place, very hot by now. Quite tiring to fit all this into two hours, but a wonderful and memorable circuit. We took a leisurely route back to Tobermory and the ferry, stopping at various points of interest along the way.
Sunday, May 29, 2016
Ben Hiant
Peaks: Ben Hiant (528m)
Area: Ardnamurchan, Western Highlands
Very much the signature peak of Western Ardnamurchan, Ben Hiant may only be a miniature mountain, but it dominates this part of the peninsula and begs to be climbed. It rises straight from the sea and was visible from our bedroom window in Kilchoan: it is also quite a complex little peak, with a distinct summit cone and interesting topography. Our family ascent topped off a memorable 46th birthday for me, particularly as this was the first full day of our Ardnamurchan holiday. In the morning, we visited the lighthouse cafe, then walked from Portuairk to Sanna Bay: some of the finest coastal scenery imaginable in perfect weather, with stunning views to the Small Isles of Rum, Muck and Eigg. The white sands and crystal clear waters of Sanna in the foreground. After lunch of pulled local venison, we drove round to the mountain road for the normal route up Ben Hiant. This gives a delightful walk, ideal for the normally reluctant children. A few steepish rises gives way to a grassy ridge with tremendous views over to Mull, the Small Isles and inland to the east to what looked like a stormy day over the Central Highlands: some tall thunderheads. Here though, all was calm and superbly clear. M and I took the normal traverse path just before the steep final summit cone, while unknown to me K and E took the direct scramble to the top! We reconvened at the summit, for spectacular views over the Inner Hebrides, Mull and our 'home village' of Kilchoan directly below. I had a tiny celebratory dram of Nevis Dew to mark the birthday and we headed down, all running at least part of the way.
Area: Ardnamurchan, Western Highlands
Very much the signature peak of Western Ardnamurchan, Ben Hiant may only be a miniature mountain, but it dominates this part of the peninsula and begs to be climbed. It rises straight from the sea and was visible from our bedroom window in Kilchoan: it is also quite a complex little peak, with a distinct summit cone and interesting topography. Our family ascent topped off a memorable 46th birthday for me, particularly as this was the first full day of our Ardnamurchan holiday. In the morning, we visited the lighthouse cafe, then walked from Portuairk to Sanna Bay: some of the finest coastal scenery imaginable in perfect weather, with stunning views to the Small Isles of Rum, Muck and Eigg. The white sands and crystal clear waters of Sanna in the foreground. After lunch of pulled local venison, we drove round to the mountain road for the normal route up Ben Hiant. This gives a delightful walk, ideal for the normally reluctant children. A few steepish rises gives way to a grassy ridge with tremendous views over to Mull, the Small Isles and inland to the east to what looked like a stormy day over the Central Highlands: some tall thunderheads. Here though, all was calm and superbly clear. M and I took the normal traverse path just before the steep final summit cone, while unknown to me K and E took the direct scramble to the top! We reconvened at the summit, for spectacular views over the Inner Hebrides, Mull and our 'home village' of Kilchoan directly below. I had a tiny celebratory dram of Nevis Dew to mark the birthday and we headed down, all running at least part of the way.
Saturday, May 28, 2016
Stob Ghabhar run
Peaks: Stob Ghabhar (1090m)
Area: Black Mount, Scotland
The usual snatched run en route to our whit week in the Highlands. After a night near Glasgow and breakfast in Tyndrum, I had a maximum of two hours to get into the mountains while the family had coffee and cakes in Bridge of Orchy. Although the normal route from Forest Lodge takes in the lower companion peak first, I decided to concentrate on the parent mountain of Stob Ghabhar, partly because it is a fine and dominant mountain, partly because I remember being rained off from it in 1993 as we retreated from a week of continual downpours on Skye. Nothing like that today, indeed in our last seven week-long trips to the Highlands we have barely seen any rain. That said, the weather wasn't quite as good as forecast as I ran alongside the Abhainn Shira until following the smaller tributary of the Allt Toaig. I was feeling fresh, the paths and tracks were good, and I made very rapid progress, running all the way to the upper corries before branching off up the steep hillside at Creag an Steallaire towards the upper cwm of Coire na Muic. From here, the onward route becomes less clear so I just ploughed straight up the steep slopes to the north hoping to emerge at the subsidiary top of the Aonach Eagach. This worked, and I emerged on a fine ridge with the mist trying to clear. It never quite managed it, but the weather heightened the atmosphere of a fine ridge. Not in the league of its Glencoe namesake, but it narrows nicely further on and becomes a brief arete before merging into the main summit ridge at a large snow patch, Intermittent views of Black Mount and Rannoch as the mist shifted in and out. Pelted down to Forest Lodge via a slight variation, just over two hours for the outing, and the sun finally came out in the main valley: it didn't go in again for the entire week.
Area: Black Mount, Scotland
The usual snatched run en route to our whit week in the Highlands. After a night near Glasgow and breakfast in Tyndrum, I had a maximum of two hours to get into the mountains while the family had coffee and cakes in Bridge of Orchy. Although the normal route from Forest Lodge takes in the lower companion peak first, I decided to concentrate on the parent mountain of Stob Ghabhar, partly because it is a fine and dominant mountain, partly because I remember being rained off from it in 1993 as we retreated from a week of continual downpours on Skye. Nothing like that today, indeed in our last seven week-long trips to the Highlands we have barely seen any rain. That said, the weather wasn't quite as good as forecast as I ran alongside the Abhainn Shira until following the smaller tributary of the Allt Toaig. I was feeling fresh, the paths and tracks were good, and I made very rapid progress, running all the way to the upper corries before branching off up the steep hillside at Creag an Steallaire towards the upper cwm of Coire na Muic. From here, the onward route becomes less clear so I just ploughed straight up the steep slopes to the north hoping to emerge at the subsidiary top of the Aonach Eagach. This worked, and I emerged on a fine ridge with the mist trying to clear. It never quite managed it, but the weather heightened the atmosphere of a fine ridge. Not in the league of its Glencoe namesake, but it narrows nicely further on and becomes a brief arete before merging into the main summit ridge at a large snow patch, Intermittent views of Black Mount and Rannoch as the mist shifted in and out. Pelted down to Forest Lodge via a slight variation, just over two hours for the outing, and the sun finally came out in the main valley: it didn't go in again for the entire week.
Tuesday, May 24, 2016
Moelwynion run
Up at 5am after an intermittent night's sleep. A very peaceful night, but cold. My tent door faced the sunrise over the Clwydians, which was a nice backdrop to my morrning cuppa. As I packed up the tent, the Snowdon Horseshoe glowed in the low sunlight, and a few wisps of mist gathered at the base of Dyffryn Mymbyr and over the summit of Tryfan. Beautiful light as I took an extended route back down to the valley, through the woods above Capel Curig with dozens of singing wood warblers. Home before 8am, in Warrington just after 9am!
Monday, May 23, 2016
Siabod run and wild camp
Peaks: Moel Siabod
Area: Moelwynion, Eryri
After my short climbing session, the clouds burnt away leaving a spectacular evening for my overnight camp. The usual wonderful views of the horseshoe from Plas y Brenin, then into the woods for the start of the route up Siabod. I didn't have any firm plans for campsites, beyond a vague intention to camp on the summit. But I know from past experience that my 700g mountain marathon tent is tricky to pitch in the wind, and found a perfect site just off the main path in the area of small bluffs and moraines around the 400m contour. The light wind blew from the north, so I pitched just below the moraine next to a clear stream. Beautiful spot with wonderful views west to the Carneddau, Glyderau and Snowdon - and east over the moors. So sunset and sunrise views seemed likely. After pitching, I had some sandwiches then jogged to the summit. Stunning views, around 7.30pm, as the sun began to drop over the Irish Sea. Beyond the Pass, a golden sea. Views south stretched beyond Cader to Plynlimon, and west to Moel Famau. Perfect clarity. An easy jog down for a fine evening meal of mackerel, chilli and couscous relaxing on top of the bluff gazing towards Tryfan. Cuckoos calling in the woods below - the air quite still so the calls carried upwards. Nearby, skylarks and ravens overhead. Penderyn single malt made a fine nightcap. The sun dropped below Glyder Fach and the temperatures instantly plummeted. By the early hours, it was only just above freezing. Indeed, next morning the condensation on the car window was half-frozen.
Area: Moelwynion, Eryri
After my short climbing session, the clouds burnt away leaving a spectacular evening for my overnight camp. The usual wonderful views of the horseshoe from Plas y Brenin, then into the woods for the start of the route up Siabod. I didn't have any firm plans for campsites, beyond a vague intention to camp on the summit. But I know from past experience that my 700g mountain marathon tent is tricky to pitch in the wind, and found a perfect site just off the main path in the area of small bluffs and moraines around the 400m contour. The light wind blew from the north, so I pitched just below the moraine next to a clear stream. Beautiful spot with wonderful views west to the Carneddau, Glyderau and Snowdon - and east over the moors. So sunset and sunrise views seemed likely. After pitching, I had some sandwiches then jogged to the summit. Stunning views, around 7.30pm, as the sun began to drop over the Irish Sea. Beyond the Pass, a golden sea. Views south stretched beyond Cader to Plynlimon, and west to Moel Famau. Perfect clarity. An easy jog down for a fine evening meal of mackerel, chilli and couscous relaxing on top of the bluff gazing towards Tryfan. Cuckoos calling in the woods below - the air quite still so the calls carried upwards. Nearby, skylarks and ravens overhead. Penderyn single malt made a fine nightcap. The sun dropped below Glyder Fach and the temperatures instantly plummeted. By the early hours, it was only just above freezing. Indeed, next morning the condensation on the car window was half-frozen.
Dyffryn Mymbyr climbing
Crag: The Blocks, Dyffryn Mymbyr
Routes: Evan's Corner (VS 4b:sh), Slab and Crack (VD:sol)
Only a very brief climbing session, combined with some bouldering, in a tiny window between my post-work drive to Capel Curig and my evening run/camp on Siabod. Clogwyn Wen wasn't particularly suitable for the shunt, so I trotted over to do Evan's Corner on the Blocks. This is the most obvious line here: a short but steep, and quite sweet, romp up the central corner. Shame it is so short, as it gives strenuous but positive laybacking with some giant jugs at the top. I then did the E1 5b Blockbuster, past the strenuous crux up to the obvious jug, where the route eases, but my shunt jammed so I had to downclimb. Not easy, to say the least! Did some bouldering, then sauntered up the easy Slab and Crack further right. The low cloud was now clearing to a beautiful evening: it cleared completely as I jogged back to the car at Plas y Brenin in preparation for the Siabod run and wild camp.
Routes: Evan's Corner (VS 4b:sh), Slab and Crack (VD:sol)
Only a very brief climbing session, combined with some bouldering, in a tiny window between my post-work drive to Capel Curig and my evening run/camp on Siabod. Clogwyn Wen wasn't particularly suitable for the shunt, so I trotted over to do Evan's Corner on the Blocks. This is the most obvious line here: a short but steep, and quite sweet, romp up the central corner. Shame it is so short, as it gives strenuous but positive laybacking with some giant jugs at the top. I then did the E1 5b Blockbuster, past the strenuous crux up to the obvious jug, where the route eases, but my shunt jammed so I had to downclimb. Not easy, to say the least! Did some bouldering, then sauntered up the easy Slab and Crack further right. The low cloud was now clearing to a beautiful evening: it cleared completely as I jogged back to the car at Plas y Brenin in preparation for the Siabod run and wild camp.
Saturday, May 21, 2016
Ffrith 5k
Race: Ffrith 5k (North Wales Championships)
Time/Position: 17.33 (4th from 93 [1st V45])
Back to the same venue as the border league finale last month, in very similar conditions of heavy showers and a cool coastal breeze. I really did want this race to mark the end of my road running season, which has gone on far longer than usual as I continue to try to take in as many championship races as possible while I remain at the younger end of my 'new' age category! The 5k championships (which I have done three or four times) generally have a fairly small and self-selecting field, which means that you do find yourself a bit exposed in the wind. Eric and I just concentrated on the race, not the clock! I paced it reasonably well, out towards the Nova centre feeling relatively good, made up a few places on this section. Then back into the headwind, fairly light but totally exposed. I was making up ground on the very young lad in front, and did think I might be able to catch him and finish third. It wasn't to be, however, and I settled for 4th place - my highest at this event, although I ran 16.54 in the champs in 2012. Eric and I both won our categories at the prize giving. Currently North Wales V45 champion at 5 mile, half marathon and 5k distances, and Welsh V45 champion at the 10 mile distance. I'd be the first to admit it is largely by default, though, with the better runners currently out of action.
Time/Position: 17.33 (4th from 93 [1st V45])
Back to the same venue as the border league finale last month, in very similar conditions of heavy showers and a cool coastal breeze. I really did want this race to mark the end of my road running season, which has gone on far longer than usual as I continue to try to take in as many championship races as possible while I remain at the younger end of my 'new' age category! The 5k championships (which I have done three or four times) generally have a fairly small and self-selecting field, which means that you do find yourself a bit exposed in the wind. Eric and I just concentrated on the race, not the clock! I paced it reasonably well, out towards the Nova centre feeling relatively good, made up a few places on this section. Then back into the headwind, fairly light but totally exposed. I was making up ground on the very young lad in front, and did think I might be able to catch him and finish third. It wasn't to be, however, and I settled for 4th place - my highest at this event, although I ran 16.54 in the champs in 2012. Eric and I both won our categories at the prize giving. Currently North Wales V45 champion at 5 mile, half marathon and 5k distances, and Welsh V45 champion at the 10 mile distance. I'd be the first to admit it is largely by default, though, with the better runners currently out of action.
Thursday, May 19, 2016
Baslow climbing
Crag: Baslow, Peak District
Routes: Route 0 (D:sol), Route 1 (VD:sol), Stepped Groove (M:sol), Route 2 (D:sol), Route 3 (D:sol), Route 3.5 (VD:sol), Gully Wall (M:sol), Gully Wall Variation (VD:sol), Shallow Rib (VD:sol), Blocked Gully (M:sol), Chipped Slab (VD:sol), Resurgence (5a:sol)
A foggy morning in the Peak, which began to clear as I parked at the Curbar Gap after a night in Darley Dale. It was very early, there was nobody around, and the ambience was delightful as I sauntered down to one of the Peak District's more obscure climbing venues. Cuckoos calling, meadow pipits displaying. I had very little information about Baslow, and no guidebook save for some scrawled notes, but the gully walls (the cleanest and most popular section) were obvious after a short walk above the edge. Like Windgather, you probably wouldn't bother coming here with a partner, but it is an ideal venue for the solo explorer. Short routes on perfect unpolished gritstone, with a lovely open aspect looking out over the patchwork valleys and villages of Calver and Curbar. I enjoyed all the gentle routes on the first slab, picking my way up and down, and particularly enjoyed Chipped Slab on the far right. Gully Wall Variation was steep to start for the grade, and Route 3 was a bit awkward at the top. I finished by taking the two harder routes on the immaculate second slab. Both had low cruxes. Resurrection was by far the hardest: crux felt more like 5c/f6b, although I may have done it wrong. Small pockets and smears to a sharper pocket and better holds. I didn't continue up this one. Resurgence was easier: British 5a/HVS, up small but quite positive pockets to small ledges. I finished a little further left. The sun came out as I jogged back to the car and headed down for a fine bacon sandwich in Calver (all well before 9am!) before driving to Warrington.
Routes: Route 0 (D:sol), Route 1 (VD:sol), Stepped Groove (M:sol), Route 2 (D:sol), Route 3 (D:sol), Route 3.5 (VD:sol), Gully Wall (M:sol), Gully Wall Variation (VD:sol), Shallow Rib (VD:sol), Blocked Gully (M:sol), Chipped Slab (VD:sol), Resurgence (5a:sol)
A foggy morning in the Peak, which began to clear as I parked at the Curbar Gap after a night in Darley Dale. It was very early, there was nobody around, and the ambience was delightful as I sauntered down to one of the Peak District's more obscure climbing venues. Cuckoos calling, meadow pipits displaying. I had very little information about Baslow, and no guidebook save for some scrawled notes, but the gully walls (the cleanest and most popular section) were obvious after a short walk above the edge. Like Windgather, you probably wouldn't bother coming here with a partner, but it is an ideal venue for the solo explorer. Short routes on perfect unpolished gritstone, with a lovely open aspect looking out over the patchwork valleys and villages of Calver and Curbar. I enjoyed all the gentle routes on the first slab, picking my way up and down, and particularly enjoyed Chipped Slab on the far right. Gully Wall Variation was steep to start for the grade, and Route 3 was a bit awkward at the top. I finished by taking the two harder routes on the immaculate second slab. Both had low cruxes. Resurrection was by far the hardest: crux felt more like 5c/f6b, although I may have done it wrong. Small pockets and smears to a sharper pocket and better holds. I didn't continue up this one. Resurgence was easier: British 5a/HVS, up small but quite positive pockets to small ledges. I finished a little further left. The sun came out as I jogged back to the car and headed down for a fine bacon sandwich in Calver (all well before 9am!) before driving to Warrington.
Wednesday, May 18, 2016
Shining Tor fell race
Race: Shining Tor fell race, Goyt Valley (10k/1700ft)
Time/Position: 46.26 (40th from 232)
Looking for a pretext to visit my old friend Jon in the Peak, I settled on this race which coincidentally took in very similar ground to the run Vic and I had enjoyed in truly vile conditions on the 3rd of January. It is a really cracking circuit of Cheshire's highpoint, very runnable throughout, which leaves from the Errwood reservoir far below the ridgeline. Ideal for me, still coming off a long winter season devoted to road running, desperately trying to develop hill fitness before the summer fell races. The fields in these parts are always very impressive and competitive, so I started well back and just enjoyed the event. A road section along the lake side gave way to a narrow track and the start of the long but relatively gentle climb up towards the tops from the far end of the lake. This goes past Erwood Hall, then up zig zags to climb above the Shooter's Clough valley, eventually emerging on the spur which leads to the Cat and Fiddle. From here, the path heads north-west to a steeper (but still eminently runnable) path to the top of Shining Tor. Most of this was familiar ground from our January run, and it was nice to be able to see the distant views north from the subsequent ridge over Cats Tor to Pym's Chair. This gives superb, fast running throughout: much of it on slabs, conditions quite good throughout, cool, cloudy and dry. The final descent down The Street and Jep Clough is steeper, and I held back a bit - losing a few places - until emerging back at Erwood Reservoir and a final fast road section across the dam. Great race, thoroughly enjoyed it. After a quick wash in the lake, I drove to Jon's house in Darley Dale: always a very pleasant drive at dusk.
Time/Position: 46.26 (40th from 232)
Looking for a pretext to visit my old friend Jon in the Peak, I settled on this race which coincidentally took in very similar ground to the run Vic and I had enjoyed in truly vile conditions on the 3rd of January. It is a really cracking circuit of Cheshire's highpoint, very runnable throughout, which leaves from the Errwood reservoir far below the ridgeline. Ideal for me, still coming off a long winter season devoted to road running, desperately trying to develop hill fitness before the summer fell races. The fields in these parts are always very impressive and competitive, so I started well back and just enjoyed the event. A road section along the lake side gave way to a narrow track and the start of the long but relatively gentle climb up towards the tops from the far end of the lake. This goes past Erwood Hall, then up zig zags to climb above the Shooter's Clough valley, eventually emerging on the spur which leads to the Cat and Fiddle. From here, the path heads north-west to a steeper (but still eminently runnable) path to the top of Shining Tor. Most of this was familiar ground from our January run, and it was nice to be able to see the distant views north from the subsequent ridge over Cats Tor to Pym's Chair. This gives superb, fast running throughout: much of it on slabs, conditions quite good throughout, cool, cloudy and dry. The final descent down The Street and Jep Clough is steeper, and I held back a bit - losing a few places - until emerging back at Erwood Reservoir and a final fast road section across the dam. Great race, thoroughly enjoyed it. After a quick wash in the lake, I drove to Jon's house in Darley Dale: always a very pleasant drive at dusk.
Windgather climbing
Crag: Windgather, Peak District
Routes: Left Triplet Crack (M:sol), South Buttress Crack (M:sol), Overlapping Wall (S:sol), Face Route 2 (D:sol), Face Route 1 (HVD:sol), Side Face (S:sol), Buttress 2 Gully (M:sol), Rib and Slab (M:sol), Leg Stump (D:sol), The Corner (D:sol), Staircase (M:sol), Heather Buttress (D:sol)
It had rained all day in the Peak, but it was sunny in Chester so I had some optimism it would clear as I drove across to the Shining Tor fell race after work. Sure enough, by Wilmslow the sun had come out so I initiated plan 'A' and stopped for a bit of easy gritstone climbing first. As its name suggests, Windgather dries quickly in the almost constant wind that blows into the face from the hills to the west. Conditions were delightful, and I thoroughly enjoyed soloing up the easy climbs that characterise this crag. I've done most (if not all) of them before, but particularly enjoyed the Face Routes on delightful slabby grit with the sun out, along with Leg Stump and the juggy Corner and Staircase. The pockets were wet after earlier rain but the climbing was all very pleasant. I finished with the isolated Heather Buttress, which gives easy slabby climbing to an intimidating finish up a steep little wall on big holds. I think it is my third time climbing here: famously simple, but a really lovely location with far reaching views over verdant hills and valleys. I could see the route of the fell race to the south, over Shining Tor and Pym's Chair, and that is where I headed after a short bouldering session at the quarry walls (doing most of the traverse and other problems).
Routes: Left Triplet Crack (M:sol), South Buttress Crack (M:sol), Overlapping Wall (S:sol), Face Route 2 (D:sol), Face Route 1 (HVD:sol), Side Face (S:sol), Buttress 2 Gully (M:sol), Rib and Slab (M:sol), Leg Stump (D:sol), The Corner (D:sol), Staircase (M:sol), Heather Buttress (D:sol)
It had rained all day in the Peak, but it was sunny in Chester so I had some optimism it would clear as I drove across to the Shining Tor fell race after work. Sure enough, by Wilmslow the sun had come out so I initiated plan 'A' and stopped for a bit of easy gritstone climbing first. As its name suggests, Windgather dries quickly in the almost constant wind that blows into the face from the hills to the west. Conditions were delightful, and I thoroughly enjoyed soloing up the easy climbs that characterise this crag. I've done most (if not all) of them before, but particularly enjoyed the Face Routes on delightful slabby grit with the sun out, along with Leg Stump and the juggy Corner and Staircase. The pockets were wet after earlier rain but the climbing was all very pleasant. I finished with the isolated Heather Buttress, which gives easy slabby climbing to an intimidating finish up a steep little wall on big holds. I think it is my third time climbing here: famously simple, but a really lovely location with far reaching views over verdant hills and valleys. I could see the route of the fell race to the south, over Shining Tor and Pym's Chair, and that is where I headed after a short bouldering session at the quarry walls (doing most of the traverse and other problems).
Monday, May 16, 2016
Roaches climbing
Crag: Roaches (Upper Tier), Staffordshire
Routes: Central Route (VS 4b:sec), Right Route (VD:led), Technical Slab (HS 4a:sec), The Neb Finish (VS 4b:sec), Black Velvet (HVD 4a:led), The Rib (D:sol), Bachelor's Buttress (VS 4c:sec), Fern Crack (S 4b:led)
A bit of a contrast to our last visit to the area in early January, when the crags were enveloped in a cold mist and it rained throughout our mud-spattered long run along the main ridge line. Instead, this was one of my occasional climbing forays onto grit on one of its finest crags, a venue I've only twice visited in the past. This is a criminal oversight, as even the easiest routes are good, and I definitely prefer these Staffordshire crags to those further north. Still in shakedown mode, and grit always takes some getting used to, so we stuck to simple ground throughout. After days of sunshine, it was cold and cloudy when we reached the Upper Tier, a very chilly northerly blowing straight into the face. This made the delicate, balancey climbing on Central Route a tad harder than it might have been. Steve B led, and I enjoyed the crisp 4b moves on small holds up the slab. I then led Right Route very quickly on Vic's gear, with Ceri belaying. This is an old classic and gives nice juggy climbing up the slabby flake that marks the right end of the slab. Next came the superb combination of Technical Slab, with the Neb Finish. I last did the slab with Tim over a quarter of a century ago, but still remembered it. It gives immaculate but bold climbing, really lovely up to the top constricted groove. A steeper move round this, then a brilliant traverse out right for the Neb Finish. This was momentarily exciting as I followed on a single rope: there's no gear on the traverse but it is easy climbing on large grit pockets and diagonal ledges. Great exposed position. We were flowing now, after a creaky and cold start, and I led the excellent Black Velvet (a companion to the classic Black and Tans which I also did with Tim many moons ago). It is a fine route for the grade: 20 metres of quality climbing. Varied too: starting with an awkward groove (Hollybush crack) which is overcome by moving left steeply on good holds. A mild jamming crack leads to a ledge, then great climbing up the very well protected thin crack leads to the wider (easy) finishing groove in a great position. After a romp up The Rib, and lunch, Steve led Bachelor's Buttress as the sun finally emerged. Temperatures increased dramatically, and the rock shone orange. This is a short but bold route, easy to second. A simple slab leads to delicate moves rightwards and a distinct, reachy crux for a flat hold. All in balance, though, and easier climbing leads diagonally rightwards to the belay. It was sunny and warm now, building to a wonderful May evening, but we were running out of time so I led Fern Crack at the far left end of the crag with Vic belaying. This was very enjoyable, a fun and unusual route at the grade. A very steep start, with little for the feet, much harder than the rest of the climb, gains a big flake then a steep but easy crack up to a remarkable, perfect thread. Above a short wall, the climb eases to a big ledge then traverse left to gain a hidden finishing groove.
Routes: Central Route (VS 4b:sec), Right Route (VD:led), Technical Slab (HS 4a:sec), The Neb Finish (VS 4b:sec), Black Velvet (HVD 4a:led), The Rib (D:sol), Bachelor's Buttress (VS 4c:sec), Fern Crack (S 4b:led)
A bit of a contrast to our last visit to the area in early January, when the crags were enveloped in a cold mist and it rained throughout our mud-spattered long run along the main ridge line. Instead, this was one of my occasional climbing forays onto grit on one of its finest crags, a venue I've only twice visited in the past. This is a criminal oversight, as even the easiest routes are good, and I definitely prefer these Staffordshire crags to those further north. Still in shakedown mode, and grit always takes some getting used to, so we stuck to simple ground throughout. After days of sunshine, it was cold and cloudy when we reached the Upper Tier, a very chilly northerly blowing straight into the face. This made the delicate, balancey climbing on Central Route a tad harder than it might have been. Steve B led, and I enjoyed the crisp 4b moves on small holds up the slab. I then led Right Route very quickly on Vic's gear, with Ceri belaying. This is an old classic and gives nice juggy climbing up the slabby flake that marks the right end of the slab. Next came the superb combination of Technical Slab, with the Neb Finish. I last did the slab with Tim over a quarter of a century ago, but still remembered it. It gives immaculate but bold climbing, really lovely up to the top constricted groove. A steeper move round this, then a brilliant traverse out right for the Neb Finish. This was momentarily exciting as I followed on a single rope: there's no gear on the traverse but it is easy climbing on large grit pockets and diagonal ledges. Great exposed position. We were flowing now, after a creaky and cold start, and I led the excellent Black Velvet (a companion to the classic Black and Tans which I also did with Tim many moons ago). It is a fine route for the grade: 20 metres of quality climbing. Varied too: starting with an awkward groove (Hollybush crack) which is overcome by moving left steeply on good holds. A mild jamming crack leads to a ledge, then great climbing up the very well protected thin crack leads to the wider (easy) finishing groove in a great position. After a romp up The Rib, and lunch, Steve led Bachelor's Buttress as the sun finally emerged. Temperatures increased dramatically, and the rock shone orange. This is a short but bold route, easy to second. A simple slab leads to delicate moves rightwards and a distinct, reachy crux for a flat hold. All in balance, though, and easier climbing leads diagonally rightwards to the belay. It was sunny and warm now, building to a wonderful May evening, but we were running out of time so I led Fern Crack at the far left end of the crag with Vic belaying. This was very enjoyable, a fun and unusual route at the grade. A very steep start, with little for the feet, much harder than the rest of the climb, gains a big flake then a steep but easy crack up to a remarkable, perfect thread. Above a short wall, the climb eases to a big ledge then traverse left to gain a hidden finishing groove.
Sunday, May 15, 2016
Chester half marathon
Race: Chester half marathon
Time/Position: 1.20.35 (45th from 7000 [4th V45])
I was due a bad race, and this was it. Shame it had to happen on a local event, but never mind! I did the old Chester half at least six times in the early 2000s, but have avoided it since it became commercialised. However, I decided I should give the new course and event a chance this year and was (I assumed) well trained for the distance, with the right combination of speed and endurance. It was baffling, therefore, to find the pace unsustainable when trying to get close to my PB of 1.17. No idea what the issue was: too much racing (last Sunday's tough half marathon, for example) or perhaps it was a bad night's sleep, or perhaps the hayfever that I suffer mildly from at this time of year (often notice a dip in form in May). No particularly unusual circumstances though, and it was my 42nd half marathon. Whatever it was, after initially enjoying the route along Bridge Street and the City Centre, I began to struggle a bit. I hooked onto a group at a similar pace, but just after the turn for home at Two Mills, I started to struggle properly. By mile 9 at Saughall I was really blowing and only revived after taking my one emergency gel. I had lost a lot of time and multiple places by now though, and even had to walk for a bit. At least 15 runners went past me on the return leg, and I lost more time on the short hill from the canal to the finish in front of the Town Hall. A nice event, which obviously takes in far more of the city than the old course, although it is three or four times more expensive! You get a sense of occasion, though, with big crowds especially at the finish. Like a mini-London, so met the family and had an ice cream to wind down.
Time/Position: 1.20.35 (45th from 7000 [4th V45])
I was due a bad race, and this was it. Shame it had to happen on a local event, but never mind! I did the old Chester half at least six times in the early 2000s, but have avoided it since it became commercialised. However, I decided I should give the new course and event a chance this year and was (I assumed) well trained for the distance, with the right combination of speed and endurance. It was baffling, therefore, to find the pace unsustainable when trying to get close to my PB of 1.17. No idea what the issue was: too much racing (last Sunday's tough half marathon, for example) or perhaps it was a bad night's sleep, or perhaps the hayfever that I suffer mildly from at this time of year (often notice a dip in form in May). No particularly unusual circumstances though, and it was my 42nd half marathon. Whatever it was, after initially enjoying the route along Bridge Street and the City Centre, I began to struggle a bit. I hooked onto a group at a similar pace, but just after the turn for home at Two Mills, I started to struggle properly. By mile 9 at Saughall I was really blowing and only revived after taking my one emergency gel. I had lost a lot of time and multiple places by now though, and even had to walk for a bit. At least 15 runners went past me on the return leg, and I lost more time on the short hill from the canal to the finish in front of the Town Hall. A nice event, which obviously takes in far more of the city than the old course, although it is three or four times more expensive! You get a sense of occasion, though, with big crowds especially at the finish. Like a mini-London, so met the family and had an ice cream to wind down.
Sunday, May 08, 2016
Two Lakes half marathon
Race: Two Lakes trail half marathon (Brenig-Alwen, Hiraethog)
Time/Position: 1.29.48 (2nd from 81 [1st Vet])
I remember doing the double loop of these lakes many years ago with Neil Parry, in an attempt to make our marathon training "more interesting". We remarked that it would make a nice race, although the full loop of both lakes is not far off 20 miles. Joe Cooper had worked out a different route which incorporates the scenic 'short cut' bridleway that links the two lakes and keeps the route to the half marathon distance (albeit with 1250ft of climbing). This also has the effect of making the race very different to the long-established Brenig race and the more recent Alwen race, both of which I've done several times. We started at the far end of the dam wall on the shores of Llyn Brenig, and headed along the fast tracks leading north. A group of three of us broke away almost immediately. Winner Steve Skates was clearly the strongest runner present, and pulled out a two minute gap by half way. So it was essentially a race for second between a runner from Trismart and myself. It was windless at the far end of Brenig for the muddy ground north of the lake: uncomfortably warm at this point. I moved into second place after the narrow paths, and we ran together along the gentle climb away from Brenig to gain the bridleway. The next section was superb - I was feeling good, the whole of Snowdonia was visible in front, and the going was wonderful along the bridleway. It was muddy after a morning downpour, but this just made it better. I felt like I'd pulled out a decent gap by the time we got to Alwen at the bridge. This is my favourite part of the normal Alwen race, wild and remote feeling in the heart of Hiraethog, particularly so given the big gaps that were opening out in the race. The crux of the route comes next: a steep climb up towards a ridge. I kept a steady plod going, before the excellent twisting tracks along the shores of the Alwen, nice and cool in the woods. After some water and a gel came the sting in the tail: the Alwen is considerably lower than the Brenig and a sharp climb back up the access road followed. I glanced behind, expecting to see nobody, planning for a relaxing run-in. But instead I saw the Trismart runner making his way up the hill. So the long climb back through the conifers towards the highpoint above Brenig turned into a considerably more tiring climax than I had anticipated! Great views down to Brenig from the top, then a welcome final descent across the main road and down to the far end of the dam wall.
Time/Position: 1.29.48 (2nd from 81 [1st Vet])
I remember doing the double loop of these lakes many years ago with Neil Parry, in an attempt to make our marathon training "more interesting". We remarked that it would make a nice race, although the full loop of both lakes is not far off 20 miles. Joe Cooper had worked out a different route which incorporates the scenic 'short cut' bridleway that links the two lakes and keeps the route to the half marathon distance (albeit with 1250ft of climbing). This also has the effect of making the race very different to the long-established Brenig race and the more recent Alwen race, both of which I've done several times. We started at the far end of the dam wall on the shores of Llyn Brenig, and headed along the fast tracks leading north. A group of three of us broke away almost immediately. Winner Steve Skates was clearly the strongest runner present, and pulled out a two minute gap by half way. So it was essentially a race for second between a runner from Trismart and myself. It was windless at the far end of Brenig for the muddy ground north of the lake: uncomfortably warm at this point. I moved into second place after the narrow paths, and we ran together along the gentle climb away from Brenig to gain the bridleway. The next section was superb - I was feeling good, the whole of Snowdonia was visible in front, and the going was wonderful along the bridleway. It was muddy after a morning downpour, but this just made it better. I felt like I'd pulled out a decent gap by the time we got to Alwen at the bridge. This is my favourite part of the normal Alwen race, wild and remote feeling in the heart of Hiraethog, particularly so given the big gaps that were opening out in the race. The crux of the route comes next: a steep climb up towards a ridge. I kept a steady plod going, before the excellent twisting tracks along the shores of the Alwen, nice and cool in the woods. After some water and a gel came the sting in the tail: the Alwen is considerably lower than the Brenig and a sharp climb back up the access road followed. I glanced behind, expecting to see nobody, planning for a relaxing run-in. But instead I saw the Trismart runner making his way up the hill. So the long climb back through the conifers towards the highpoint above Brenig turned into a considerably more tiring climax than I had anticipated! Great views down to Brenig from the top, then a welcome final descent across the main road and down to the far end of the dam wall.
Wednesday, May 04, 2016
Dinas Bran fell race
Race: Dinas Bran fell race (4.3m/1150ft/AS)
Time/Position: 33.33 (5th from 80 [1st V45])
A much delayed return to racing in the hills. As such, I wasn't sure how I would go given my usual winter focus on road running. But this is such an intense and explosive half hour outing that it's more a matter of just gauging the effort like a short border league race. I've done the route five or six times, indeed it was the first fell race I ever entered in 2002 or 2003. After our short climbing session, Vic and I sat down with a strong coffee at the cafe near the bridge in Llangollen, then jogged up to the start of the race. My tactic was just to push on the road sections then see if I could hang on for the hills. The first section of steep tarmac was pretty tough for me, given the lack of recent hill work and the rock climbing we had just done! But the curving path towards the back of Dinas Bran went well, and I started to pick up a few places. I always walk sections of the steep climb up to the top, and actually find it's the only place for a slight rest! I descended reasonably well, moving up to fifth place, and tried to push on a bit for the second circuit and climb. I was just holding on by the time we reached the top again, but again the descent went OK although I couldn't move up the field on the tarmac. Got the first V40 prize later on, although only by default. Beautiful evening which cooled quickly as the sun set.
Time/Position: 33.33 (5th from 80 [1st V45])
A much delayed return to racing in the hills. As such, I wasn't sure how I would go given my usual winter focus on road running. But this is such an intense and explosive half hour outing that it's more a matter of just gauging the effort like a short border league race. I've done the route five or six times, indeed it was the first fell race I ever entered in 2002 or 2003. After our short climbing session, Vic and I sat down with a strong coffee at the cafe near the bridge in Llangollen, then jogged up to the start of the race. My tactic was just to push on the road sections then see if I could hang on for the hills. The first section of steep tarmac was pretty tough for me, given the lack of recent hill work and the rock climbing we had just done! But the curving path towards the back of Dinas Bran went well, and I started to pick up a few places. I always walk sections of the steep climb up to the top, and actually find it's the only place for a slight rest! I descended reasonably well, moving up to fifth place, and tried to push on a bit for the second circuit and climb. I was just holding on by the time we reached the top again, but again the descent went OK although I couldn't move up the field on the tarmac. Got the first V40 prize later on, although only by default. Beautiful evening which cooled quickly as the sun set.
Eglwyseg climbing
Crag: Twilight Gully Walls, Eglwyseg
Routes: Pentredwr Crack (S 4a:led), Happy Valley (VS 4b:sec), Agay (S 4a:led), Misty Dawn (S 4a:sec), Continental Chocs (VS 4b:led), Volenti (S 4a:sec)
At last, beautiful May weather and the opportunity to do a spot of 'multi-eventing' with a few climbs acting as a warm-up for the evening fell race at Dinas Bran. I hadn't climbed at the Twilight area for years: it is the longest walk-in locally, so probably not the ideal choice before an evening race. But the approach takes in one of the finest sections of the Offa's Dyke path in stunning clarity of light, and the distance means that the crag has an even more tranquil feel than the rest of the valley, with no road beneath. The routes are short and undistinguished, but all very pleasant. I have climbed on the left-hand section a couple of times before, but I had no memory of climbing on the Gully Walls further right. I kicked off with a lead of the very obvious (but slightly hidden) crack immediately right of the large ash tree. I initially thought this was the line of Misty Dawn, but actually it isn't in the guidebook. It has almost certainly been climbed before, but is another useful easy addition to the crag - somewhere between VD and S. It goes up to the tree, then takes the nice clean crack in the corner, pleasant, well-protected and juggy. Pentredwr Crack seems an appropriate name. Vic then led Happy Valley, a mild VS up good solid grey limestone further right, one of the better VS's in the valley. A tricky start leads to nice climbing traversing diagonally rightwards on good holds. I then led Agay, largely because of the name (Frejus and Antibes are its companion routes, all my favourite holiday destinations). This takes the hidden wall behind a large detached tower: gentle climbing to a sapling. Mick joined us as I belayed. Vic led Misty Dawn, a better Severe and the line I had initially tried to follow. This goes to an undercut then an awkward move into a steepish crack taken on good holds. I upped the grade a bit with the obvious crackline taken by Continental Chocs. This is fairly easy to a bridging move which enables a chockstone to be threaded. Above, a distinct crux with a steep move above the chockstone - I had a bit of a wobble when I pulled up on gravel, banging my shins as my foot slipped. Easier above, and we finished with the pleasant slanting groove taken by Volenti: worth a star, one of the better easy climbs in the valley. The weather remained perfect throughout: quite warm as the sun moved round to light the face. A slow amble back to the car, trying to save energy for the race.
At last, beautiful May weather and the opportunity to do a spot of 'multi-eventing' with a few climbs acting as a warm-up for the evening fell race at Dinas Bran. I hadn't climbed at the Twilight area for years: it is the longest walk-in locally, so probably not the ideal choice before an evening race. But the approach takes in one of the finest sections of the Offa's Dyke path in stunning clarity of light, and the distance means that the crag has an even more tranquil feel than the rest of the valley, with no road beneath. The routes are short and undistinguished, but all very pleasant. I have climbed on the left-hand section a couple of times before, but I had no memory of climbing on the Gully Walls further right. I kicked off with a lead of the very obvious (but slightly hidden) crack immediately right of the large ash tree. I initially thought this was the line of Misty Dawn, but actually it isn't in the guidebook. It has almost certainly been climbed before, but is another useful easy addition to the crag - somewhere between VD and S. It goes up to the tree, then takes the nice clean crack in the corner, pleasant, well-protected and juggy. Pentredwr Crack seems an appropriate name. Vic then led Happy Valley, a mild VS up good solid grey limestone further right, one of the better VS's in the valley. A tricky start leads to nice climbing traversing diagonally rightwards on good holds. I then led Agay, largely because of the name (Frejus and Antibes are its companion routes, all my favourite holiday destinations). This takes the hidden wall behind a large detached tower: gentle climbing to a sapling. Mick joined us as I belayed. Vic led Misty Dawn, a better Severe and the line I had initially tried to follow. This goes to an undercut then an awkward move into a steepish crack taken on good holds. I upped the grade a bit with the obvious crackline taken by Continental Chocs. This is fairly easy to a bridging move which enables a chockstone to be threaded. Above, a distinct crux with a steep move above the chockstone - I had a bit of a wobble when I pulled up on gravel, banging my shins as my foot slipped. Easier above, and we finished with the pleasant slanting groove taken by Volenti: worth a star, one of the better easy climbs in the valley. The weather remained perfect throughout: quite warm as the sun moved round to light the face. A slow amble back to the car, trying to save energy for the race.
Monday, May 02, 2016
Flint Castle-Moel Famau-Cadole run
Running from the shores of the Dee Estuary to the top of Moel Famau sounded like my cup of tea, so I jumped at the chance to join a large group doing just that on Bank Holiday Monday morning. A sort of Trans-Flintshire run, it worked really well despite the rain and wind as a poor April gave way to a cold May. We started inside Flint Castle itself, then ran through the town in the rain, not the most uplifting of starts. From here, a small lane led to the first off-road section through fields, and the rest of the route was largely on small paths using the local knowledge of John Morris. The shallow valley of the Afon Conwy leads to a bridge over the A55 then steeper paths over Rhosesmor which lead eventually to the Halkyn road and very muddy fields down to Rhydymwyn. The route then essentially follows the River Alyn and the leat path before breaking off on a slight detour towards the pump house below Cilcain. I had to get back for lunch, so broke away to run alone up the Cilcain race route up Moel Famau. I pushed the pace a bit to the summit, with mist clearing. Then a long and rather tiring descent to Cadole, making the route 15-16 miles, possibly still feeling the marathon in my legs. A great route, really enjoyable.
Wednesday, April 27, 2016
Prestatyn Border League
Race: Prestatyn 7k/4.2m (Border League race 7)
Time/Position: 24.37 (15th from 276 [1st V45])
It's not the first time we've had a final border league fixture just three days after London, but tonight's race was intensified by the very tight margins in the V45 category. I had a slender 5 point lead over Rich Webster, who had also done London: so it was a level playing field and the usual friendly competition. After a short loop around the Ffrith, the race went out for a two mile romp along the prom past the Nova Centre. I stuck with Richard for most of this, evenly matched as we have been all season. But I was feeling reasonably good and the legs weren't too painful after the marathon, so I pushed on a bit, then worked my way up the field on the return leg eventually joining a small group of three. There was a headwind as we headed back west, but nothing compared to previous return legs along the same coastal path (45mph on the Rhyl 10 earlier this year, to name but one example!). In the event, I recorded my third best finish of the season to win the V45 category in the league with 105 points, the first time I have won my category in 11 years. A really enjoyable season, closely contested throughout (tonight was also, coincidentally, my 60th Border League race).
Time/Position: 24.37 (15th from 276 [1st V45])
It's not the first time we've had a final border league fixture just three days after London, but tonight's race was intensified by the very tight margins in the V45 category. I had a slender 5 point lead over Rich Webster, who had also done London: so it was a level playing field and the usual friendly competition. After a short loop around the Ffrith, the race went out for a two mile romp along the prom past the Nova Centre. I stuck with Richard for most of this, evenly matched as we have been all season. But I was feeling reasonably good and the legs weren't too painful after the marathon, so I pushed on a bit, then worked my way up the field on the return leg eventually joining a small group of three. There was a headwind as we headed back west, but nothing compared to previous return legs along the same coastal path (45mph on the Rhyl 10 earlier this year, to name but one example!). In the event, I recorded my third best finish of the season to win the V45 category in the league with 105 points, the first time I have won my category in 11 years. A really enjoyable season, closely contested throughout (tonight was also, coincidentally, my 60th Border League race).
Sunday, April 24, 2016
London Marathon
Race: London Marathon
Time/Position: 2.55.27 (1265 from 39139)
Very relaxed coming in to this race, my 20th road marathon and 7th London. I had only done three long training runs, so had no expectations at all. I knew I wasn't in PB shape so my only chance at a decent performance was a steady and sustainable pace. To my surprise, I kept this slow and steady pace going throughout, despite the lack of training, probably because I am well trained for the half marathon distance at the moment and was therefore very comfortable until the Isle of Dogs. I also managed to hold down quite a few gels, which is unusual for me. The upshot was that this was perhaps the most enjoyable London I have ever done, save perhaps for the first time I did it in 2001. My splits were very consistent, albeit very slow and conservative! My quickest 5k was 20.34, the slowest was 21.20 - pace was between 4.04km and 4.16km for the entire race. As ever, the highlights were Cutty Sark, then going over Tower Bridge feeling fresh, then Narrow Street. I saw the family at Canary Wharf, around mile 19, which was a boost for the last few miles. My pace slackened a little towards the end, but not much, and the final section down the Embankment towards Big Ben is always very special. A couple of minutes slower than my PB, and at least 10 minutes slower than I should theoretically be able to do, but that requires a more disciplined approach to training than I have managed in the 15 years I've been running marathons! I've long since accepted that marathons will never be my distance, but it was nice to be 20 minutes inside the V45 qualifying time. Always a great day and a great family weekend: and it is even better when you actually enjoy the race.
Time/Position: 2.55.27 (1265 from 39139)
Very relaxed coming in to this race, my 20th road marathon and 7th London. I had only done three long training runs, so had no expectations at all. I knew I wasn't in PB shape so my only chance at a decent performance was a steady and sustainable pace. To my surprise, I kept this slow and steady pace going throughout, despite the lack of training, probably because I am well trained for the half marathon distance at the moment and was therefore very comfortable until the Isle of Dogs. I also managed to hold down quite a few gels, which is unusual for me. The upshot was that this was perhaps the most enjoyable London I have ever done, save perhaps for the first time I did it in 2001. My splits were very consistent, albeit very slow and conservative! My quickest 5k was 20.34, the slowest was 21.20 - pace was between 4.04km and 4.16km for the entire race. As ever, the highlights were Cutty Sark, then going over Tower Bridge feeling fresh, then Narrow Street. I saw the family at Canary Wharf, around mile 19, which was a boost for the last few miles. My pace slackened a little towards the end, but not much, and the final section down the Embankment towards Big Ben is always very special. A couple of minutes slower than my PB, and at least 10 minutes slower than I should theoretically be able to do, but that requires a more disciplined approach to training than I have managed in the 15 years I've been running marathons! I've long since accepted that marathons will never be my distance, but it was nice to be 20 minutes inside the V45 qualifying time. Always a great day and a great family weekend: and it is even better when you actually enjoy the race.
Wednesday, April 20, 2016
Moelwyns climbing
Crag: Craig yr Wrysgan, Moelwynion
Routes: Y Gelynen (VD:led p.1), Y Gelynen Direct Finish (S:led), Cave Arete (VD:led), Daufaen (S:led), Honeysuckle Corner (HS 4b:sec)
Shakedown mode today on a series of easy routes, having not climbed trad since last August. The Moelwyns are always ideal for this purpose: crags I have visited many times over the years. It's been a late spring, but this morning was perfection - that rare combination of ideal temperatures and perfect clarity that you sometimes get in April. We went for Craig yr Wrysgan, and I kicked off with the first pitch of Y Gelynen, which I last did in the early 1990s with Tim (and I have a memory we went off route on it, not sure how!). It is a delightful climb on gentle, warm rock. It is rather bold for the grade, but can be protected with a bit of thought. Easy ledges lead out left to the blunt rib itself, which gives lovely climbing on little incut holds to a small nut placement near the eponymous holly: a lovely 30m pitch. We were climbing on a single rope, so I belayed in a little niche under the holly to prevent too much drag. Vic then led up to Y Borfa via a thin crack, then an overlap taken on good holds to a slab. I then led the alternative finish, which I don't think I've done before. Instead of sidling off to the right, it goes up easy shelves to the obvious corner crack which is steep initially with one tricky move to gain bigger holds and easy climbing to the top: improves the route considerably. From the top, we ambled through the interesting industrial landscape to the Upper Tier. I'd never climbed here before: it is a small crag of rough rock, almost like a gritstone outcrop, giving 30-40m routes. I led up the easy Cave Arete at the far left of the crag, above a remarkable quarried cave which we explored first. The route goes on huge holds to a short chimney, with easy bridging to a ledge. I continued up the next arete pitch: slabby and simple, but in a nice position. All very gentle but well worthwhile: a fine combination of routes at a consistent grade. The descent is always a nice and novel feature of this crag, as it takes the old incline through a tunnel. After lunch, we scrambled up to the ledge below the obvious White Streak slab. We've done this before, so I led Daufaen instead. This is a companion route which takes the left side of the slab. A steep initial crack is short-lived but fun, and leads to the first slab. Slightly dirty after winter, with the whole route less travelled than White Streak. Similar though: characterised by easy, enjoyable climbing on classic Moelwyn pocketed slabs. On the bold side, although some blocks at half height give plenty of gear. I continued on through the second pitch, which takes a slightly steeper slab to the ledge of Y Borfa. Fine climbing, again rather bold with cams in pockets and the like. A fine 35m pitch. A delightful sun-drenched belay on the ledge before Vic led through up old favourite Honeysuckle Corner. Slightly awkward in places, but I've done it before and remembered where the holds were! It goes quite easily and is a fine easy bridging pitch. We shot up the combination in around half an hour, then back down through the tunnel for an early finish. Stunning weather throughout.
Routes: Y Gelynen (VD:led p.1), Y Gelynen Direct Finish (S:led), Cave Arete (VD:led), Daufaen (S:led), Honeysuckle Corner (HS 4b:sec)
Shakedown mode today on a series of easy routes, having not climbed trad since last August. The Moelwyns are always ideal for this purpose: crags I have visited many times over the years. It's been a late spring, but this morning was perfection - that rare combination of ideal temperatures and perfect clarity that you sometimes get in April. We went for Craig yr Wrysgan, and I kicked off with the first pitch of Y Gelynen, which I last did in the early 1990s with Tim (and I have a memory we went off route on it, not sure how!). It is a delightful climb on gentle, warm rock. It is rather bold for the grade, but can be protected with a bit of thought. Easy ledges lead out left to the blunt rib itself, which gives lovely climbing on little incut holds to a small nut placement near the eponymous holly: a lovely 30m pitch. We were climbing on a single rope, so I belayed in a little niche under the holly to prevent too much drag. Vic then led up to Y Borfa via a thin crack, then an overlap taken on good holds to a slab. I then led the alternative finish, which I don't think I've done before. Instead of sidling off to the right, it goes up easy shelves to the obvious corner crack which is steep initially with one tricky move to gain bigger holds and easy climbing to the top: improves the route considerably. From the top, we ambled through the interesting industrial landscape to the Upper Tier. I'd never climbed here before: it is a small crag of rough rock, almost like a gritstone outcrop, giving 30-40m routes. I led up the easy Cave Arete at the far left of the crag, above a remarkable quarried cave which we explored first. The route goes on huge holds to a short chimney, with easy bridging to a ledge. I continued up the next arete pitch: slabby and simple, but in a nice position. All very gentle but well worthwhile: a fine combination of routes at a consistent grade. The descent is always a nice and novel feature of this crag, as it takes the old incline through a tunnel. After lunch, we scrambled up to the ledge below the obvious White Streak slab. We've done this before, so I led Daufaen instead. This is a companion route which takes the left side of the slab. A steep initial crack is short-lived but fun, and leads to the first slab. Slightly dirty after winter, with the whole route less travelled than White Streak. Similar though: characterised by easy, enjoyable climbing on classic Moelwyn pocketed slabs. On the bold side, although some blocks at half height give plenty of gear. I continued on through the second pitch, which takes a slightly steeper slab to the ledge of Y Borfa. Fine climbing, again rather bold with cams in pockets and the like. A fine 35m pitch. A delightful sun-drenched belay on the ledge before Vic led through up old favourite Honeysuckle Corner. Slightly awkward in places, but I've done it before and remembered where the holds were! It goes quite easily and is a fine easy bridging pitch. We shot up the combination in around half an hour, then back down through the tunnel for an early finish. Stunning weather throughout.
Sunday, April 17, 2016
Mold Border League
Race: Mold 5m (Border League Race 6)
Time/Position: 28.37 (13th from 293 [1st V45])
Almost three months since my last border league fixture, and indeed my last short race - having missed race 5 due to the Panama trip. This gap, combined with recent travels and relative lack of speedwork, meant I was very unsure how I'd get on today. The V45 category could hardly be tighter, with Richard Webster nudging into the lead by one point after the last race. It was a relief, therefore, to feel reasonably good on this very familiar circuit, which I must have done at least 10 times. It is always a tricky one to judge: indeed just last year I blew after the hill to Nercwys and really struggled over the last half. This was better, just kept it steady on the climb, then pushed the pace a bit through Nercwys. Myself and Richard again equally matched, running together for most of the race. I felt OK at the turn back to Mold, so picked up the pace again to catch Jez and others on the undulations before re-entering Mold. Coming into the final mile, I was momentarily 10th, but part of a small group of quick runners that I knew would beat me in a sprint finish. That was indeed the case: I have never had much of a finishing kick and ended up at the back of the group. Still, a great race (and a great league season) with the usual friendly competition, and not too bad a time for this hilly 5 mile course. The category remains very tight: a slender 5 point lead going into the final race, which (as is often the case) is three days after London!
Time/Position: 28.37 (13th from 293 [1st V45])
Almost three months since my last border league fixture, and indeed my last short race - having missed race 5 due to the Panama trip. This gap, combined with recent travels and relative lack of speedwork, meant I was very unsure how I'd get on today. The V45 category could hardly be tighter, with Richard Webster nudging into the lead by one point after the last race. It was a relief, therefore, to feel reasonably good on this very familiar circuit, which I must have done at least 10 times. It is always a tricky one to judge: indeed just last year I blew after the hill to Nercwys and really struggled over the last half. This was better, just kept it steady on the climb, then pushed the pace a bit through Nercwys. Myself and Richard again equally matched, running together for most of the race. I felt OK at the turn back to Mold, so picked up the pace again to catch Jez and others on the undulations before re-entering Mold. Coming into the final mile, I was momentarily 10th, but part of a small group of quick runners that I knew would beat me in a sprint finish. That was indeed the case: I have never had much of a finishing kick and ended up at the back of the group. Still, a great race (and a great league season) with the usual friendly competition, and not too bad a time for this hilly 5 mile course. The category remains very tight: a slender 5 point lead going into the final race, which (as is often the case) is three days after London!
Sunday, April 10, 2016
Ca's Catala climbs
Crag: Ca's Catala, Mallorca
Routes: Rama Lama Dindon (f5:led), Bon Profit (f4c:sec), Covas Bros (f5:led), Ebam 2 (f4c:led), Ebam 1 (f4c:sec), El Rey de Bastos (f5c:led), La Virgin del Felpudo (f6a:sec), Makarenko (f5b:led), Aitornillo (f4a:sec)
This was a fairly obvious choice for the airport day, located on the western side of Palma Bay. The unfortunate thing is that it was supposed to come after a shakedown on Friday, then the big mountain day we had planned for Saturday. That didn't happen because of the lost day and tight schedule, but at least we had the two slices of the sandwich, even if we missed out on the filling! This crag has a rather suburban feel, a short walk-in from the resort of Sant Augusti, with some enormous mansions across the small valley. The immediate environment is pleasant with views of the Med from the top of the crag: in fact, the clarity of light was such that we could clearly see Ibiza and Formentera although they are well over 50km away. We did the crag's duo of three-star routes first, longer (20m+) pitches on a slabby rib of rock. Nice climbing, although the f4a struck me as severely undergraded: it was fairly sustained with tricky and quite technical moves to overcome a bulge below the top. The limestone at this crack was rough and unpolished, like shards of glass in places, reminding me of Chateaudouble. Given our total lack of recent climbing, we kept the grades modest again and just went for mileage. Much further left, I led the shorter line of Covas Bros at f5, which took a blunt rib. It went quite easily until a steepish finish on flatter holds. The two lines to its left were strong natural lines - my lead went easily to a deep crack splitting a detached pillar while Vic's was a longer route (20m) taking the obvious groove at the left-end of the crag. Both were enjoyable. We had some lunch, as the cloud had all burnt away to give another incredible day of deep blue skies. The temperature had climbed dramatically and we found ourselves sweating in shirt-sleeves on sun-kissed rock. I upped the grade a tad with a lead of the short but good El Rey de Bastos at 5c. This had reachy moves on pockets to gain a long horizontal undercut. From here, strenuous moves on good, positive holds led up a crack to a steep finish. The 6a to the right was just as good: another athletic and strenuous pitch, getting the blood pumping and forearms working. We both did them cleanly and quickly, before finishing with two short routes and heading to the airport via a quick lunch and a couple of final Mallorcan specialities.
Routes: Rama Lama Dindon (f5:led), Bon Profit (f4c:sec), Covas Bros (f5:led), Ebam 2 (f4c:led), Ebam 1 (f4c:sec), El Rey de Bastos (f5c:led), La Virgin del Felpudo (f6a:sec), Makarenko (f5b:led), Aitornillo (f4a:sec)
This was a fairly obvious choice for the airport day, located on the western side of Palma Bay. The unfortunate thing is that it was supposed to come after a shakedown on Friday, then the big mountain day we had planned for Saturday. That didn't happen because of the lost day and tight schedule, but at least we had the two slices of the sandwich, even if we missed out on the filling! This crag has a rather suburban feel, a short walk-in from the resort of Sant Augusti, with some enormous mansions across the small valley. The immediate environment is pleasant with views of the Med from the top of the crag: in fact, the clarity of light was such that we could clearly see Ibiza and Formentera although they are well over 50km away. We did the crag's duo of three-star routes first, longer (20m+) pitches on a slabby rib of rock. Nice climbing, although the f4a struck me as severely undergraded: it was fairly sustained with tricky and quite technical moves to overcome a bulge below the top. The limestone at this crack was rough and unpolished, like shards of glass in places, reminding me of Chateaudouble. Given our total lack of recent climbing, we kept the grades modest again and just went for mileage. Much further left, I led the shorter line of Covas Bros at f5, which took a blunt rib. It went quite easily until a steepish finish on flatter holds. The two lines to its left were strong natural lines - my lead went easily to a deep crack splitting a detached pillar while Vic's was a longer route (20m) taking the obvious groove at the left-end of the crag. Both were enjoyable. We had some lunch, as the cloud had all burnt away to give another incredible day of deep blue skies. The temperature had climbed dramatically and we found ourselves sweating in shirt-sleeves on sun-kissed rock. I upped the grade a tad with a lead of the short but good El Rey de Bastos at 5c. This had reachy moves on pockets to gain a long horizontal undercut. From here, strenuous moves on good, positive holds led up a crack to a steep finish. The 6a to the right was just as good: another athletic and strenuous pitch, getting the blood pumping and forearms working. We both did them cleanly and quickly, before finishing with two short routes and heading to the airport via a quick lunch and a couple of final Mallorcan specialities.
Saturday, April 09, 2016
Sa Comuna run
Peak: Sa Comuna (741m)
Area: Sierra de Tramuntana, Mallorca
After five hours climbing at S'Estret, and lunch in Valdemossa, I ran through the town to the hard-to-find GR221 (the 'dry stone way') which traverses the spine of the fabulous Sierra de Tramuntana mountain range in Western Mallorca. After a day of enforced rest yesterday, I had a reasonable amount of energy left after the climbing and was very keen to sample the Mallorcan mountains, albeit extremely briefly! The weather was now absolutely perfect: incredible rain-washed clarity and a light northerly breeze. I ran up through ancient paths to small limestone outcrops and walnut trees, eventually emerging on a small limestone summit plateau. Wonderful views of the deep blue Mediterranean immediately west, Valdemossa below and the higher peaks fringing the town to the north. Those peaks blocked views further north over the Sierra de Tramuntana sadly, but after a fast descent we then drove back through the mountains to Esporles via more beautiful scenery.
Area: Sierra de Tramuntana, Mallorca
After five hours climbing at S'Estret, and lunch in Valdemossa, I ran through the town to the hard-to-find GR221 (the 'dry stone way') which traverses the spine of the fabulous Sierra de Tramuntana mountain range in Western Mallorca. After a day of enforced rest yesterday, I had a reasonable amount of energy left after the climbing and was very keen to sample the Mallorcan mountains, albeit extremely briefly! The weather was now absolutely perfect: incredible rain-washed clarity and a light northerly breeze. I ran up through ancient paths to small limestone outcrops and walnut trees, eventually emerging on a small limestone summit plateau. Wonderful views of the deep blue Mediterranean immediately west, Valdemossa below and the higher peaks fringing the town to the north. Those peaks blocked views further north over the Sierra de Tramuntana sadly, but after a fast descent we then drove back through the mountains to Esporles via more beautiful scenery.
S'Estret climbs
Crag: S'Estret, Mallorca
Routes: Zarzamora (f4c:led), Mario Moreno (f5:led), Mario Moreno II (f5:sec), El Culo (f5c:led), Con el Culo al Aire (f5a:sec), Pasion Interminable (f5a:led), Pasion Oculta (f4c:sec), El Imperio Contrataca (f4c:led), El Retorno del Jedi (f5a:sec)
A rather unfortunate start to a very brief (three day) cragging trip to Mallorca, my first ever visit to the Balearics. I arrived just before midnight on the Thursday, met long-staying Vic, and retired to our wonderful converted monastery in Marratxinet. After a good breakfast, the forecast rain began and we lost an entire day to the torrential downpour and icy temperatures. It cleared later in the evening to leave snow on the higher peaks. This morning dawned dry, however, albeit cloudy and cold. Vic was now ill, so we headed to S'Estret above Valdemossa (planned as the shakedown day yesterday). I hadn't touched rock since last August, so kicked off with the lowly graded Zarzamora. Conditions weren't good: damp and cold. But the climb was very nice: an easy slab led to a contrasting slightly overhanging crack, almost a mini-chimney, overcome on huge holds to gain a rest and easy ground to the lower-off. Nice start, still some light rain in the air. The classic Mario Moreno was disappointing: it takes a long 25m+ slab in a good open position with some huge holds, but is very polished and quite unpleasant in these conditions. I found the footwork tricky and the route over-rated and undergraded. Its companion to the left was similar: marble-like polish, reminding me of St Jeannet. The sun came out at midday, at long last, and we moved up to a much better part of the crag, with good views over the valley. Our mini-break now improved dramatically! Vic was not well enough to lead, so I kicked off with El Culo at 5c. This has a fierce move over an overlap at the start, due to a lost hold. Fingery and awkward, but above lies a delightful slab of surprisingly rough dark grey limestone. Padding up this in the sunshine, the rock warming by the second: this is what we come for. The climbing was thought-provoking and sustained, but never difficult, with sharp little incut holds and small cracks. A fine route, as was the f5 crack to its right: much steeper at the start, up a juggy flake crack to gain easier climbing. We had a bite to eat as the temperatures climbed further, enjoying the views over the plains to the east. Further right, I then led Pasion Interminable in glorious sunshine. This was the route of the weekend, unusually varied and interesting throughout. An initial easy slab led to a delicate traverse into a groove. Slightly tricky moves up this to gain a steep but positive crack leading to an upper headwall, slabby again, split by a glorious positive flake crack. A great 100ft pitch. After two more short and polished routes, we retired for a very late al fresco lunch of tostada sopressada and empanadas in Valdemossa. Too soon after this substantial repast, I ran up into the hills above the town.
Routes: Zarzamora (f4c:led), Mario Moreno (f5:led), Mario Moreno II (f5:sec), El Culo (f5c:led), Con el Culo al Aire (f5a:sec), Pasion Interminable (f5a:led), Pasion Oculta (f4c:sec), El Imperio Contrataca (f4c:led), El Retorno del Jedi (f5a:sec)
A rather unfortunate start to a very brief (three day) cragging trip to Mallorca, my first ever visit to the Balearics. I arrived just before midnight on the Thursday, met long-staying Vic, and retired to our wonderful converted monastery in Marratxinet. After a good breakfast, the forecast rain began and we lost an entire day to the torrential downpour and icy temperatures. It cleared later in the evening to leave snow on the higher peaks. This morning dawned dry, however, albeit cloudy and cold. Vic was now ill, so we headed to S'Estret above Valdemossa (planned as the shakedown day yesterday). I hadn't touched rock since last August, so kicked off with the lowly graded Zarzamora. Conditions weren't good: damp and cold. But the climb was very nice: an easy slab led to a contrasting slightly overhanging crack, almost a mini-chimney, overcome on huge holds to gain a rest and easy ground to the lower-off. Nice start, still some light rain in the air. The classic Mario Moreno was disappointing: it takes a long 25m+ slab in a good open position with some huge holds, but is very polished and quite unpleasant in these conditions. I found the footwork tricky and the route over-rated and undergraded. Its companion to the left was similar: marble-like polish, reminding me of St Jeannet. The sun came out at midday, at long last, and we moved up to a much better part of the crag, with good views over the valley. Our mini-break now improved dramatically! Vic was not well enough to lead, so I kicked off with El Culo at 5c. This has a fierce move over an overlap at the start, due to a lost hold. Fingery and awkward, but above lies a delightful slab of surprisingly rough dark grey limestone. Padding up this in the sunshine, the rock warming by the second: this is what we come for. The climbing was thought-provoking and sustained, but never difficult, with sharp little incut holds and small cracks. A fine route, as was the f5 crack to its right: much steeper at the start, up a juggy flake crack to gain easier climbing. We had a bite to eat as the temperatures climbed further, enjoying the views over the plains to the east. Further right, I then led Pasion Interminable in glorious sunshine. This was the route of the weekend, unusually varied and interesting throughout. An initial easy slab led to a delicate traverse into a groove. Slightly tricky moves up this to gain a steep but positive crack leading to an upper headwall, slabby again, split by a glorious positive flake crack. A great 100ft pitch. After two more short and polished routes, we retired for a very late al fresco lunch of tostada sopressada and empanadas in Valdemossa. Too soon after this substantial repast, I ran up into the hills above the town.
Sunday, April 03, 2016
Kinnerton-Denbigh run
A last ditch attempt to get another (probably final) long run in before my 20th marathon at the end of the month. Unlike last Monday (and the Knighton 20) this went reasonably well, and was an interesting point to point route that I have pondered the feasibility of for some time. I headed off at a steady but reasonable pace, up the long climb through Penymynydd to Buckley, down to Mold, then up through the undulating quiet lanes to Rhydymwyn and Hendre. From here, an awful section of the main Mold-Denbigh road, a definite lowpoint, leads to the familiar steep and long climb up towards Moel Arthur and a merciful release from the traffic. The hill was tough, although easier than it is on the bike, and the weather was delightful: warm spring sunshine and birds singing, early house martins overhead. At the col, I had a gel and got to K's house in time for a family lunch in Denbigh in just over 30 minutes running via Llandyrnog. A smidgeon over 2.5 hours in total.
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