Crag: Cwm Cneifion
Routes: Nameless Gully (wII:sol), Easy Route (wI:des), Hidden Gully (wII:sol), Corner Gully (wI/II:des), Pinnacle Gully (wI:sol)
This amazing winter just keeps on coming, day after day of superb conditions and memorable outings. This was - perforce - another brief solo morning, so slightly frustrating in terms of feasible options. That said, the neve and weather is now so utterly perfect that easy snow gullies make a lot of sense. Sick of heavy boots by now, so skipped up to Cneifion in my fell running shoes, carrying the boots. Worked well, as I arrived in the cwm proper just after 8am after 40 minutes of minimal effort. Had the place to myself, as I slogged up to the Nameless face at the top of the cwm. Selected Nameless Gully as one of the few routes I haven't done up here. Although hardly a classic line, this gave wonderful easy climbing on seemingly untouched snow. Sheer enjoyment, with ultra-secure placements on ultra-solid neve, leading to a narrowing and steepening between rock walls and a steepish finish, skirting the cornice to sudden sunshine as I emerged on the Glyder plateau to crystal-clear views in every direction. I then descended Easy Route, steep at the top, before traversing in to Hidden Gully. I last did this in 1993: it is an absolute gem, if a little short. Very popular, so inevitably marred by bucket steps all the way, but it is such a delightful place that it hardly matters. The walls close in as the gully steepens, with sunshine for the last few moves. It was still only 9am, so I had breakfast on the plateau before descending Corner Gully for a change. This was absorbing and enjoyable, and led back down to the base of the cwm. I needed to get home early, and was saving energy for a planned 20 mile run tomorrow, but couldn't resist one more gully so nipped up Pinnacle Gully at the base of the cwm - below the arete. The neve was good even here, although the route is just a walk up to a constriction between two high walls. From here, the gully fans out and I took the steepest exit just to the right which gave more highly enjoyable climbing, mixed in places as I weaved around seeking options to extend the action. I emerged at the bottom of the Gribin and sunbathed for a while before descending to the car. Later discovered I'd been wearing my pyjamas all morning, under my thermals, such was my haste to leave HK at 6am!
Monday, March 08, 2010
Sunday, March 07, 2010
Farndon 10k
Race: Farndon 10k
Time/Position: 36:13 (7th from 477)
Just a little too 'undulating' and twisty to allow me to dip under 36m, but a flatteringly high finishing position was some compensation. Not generally considered to be a PB course, so reasonably pleased to get so close. A lovely rural borderland course, with beautiful cold, sunny and still weather throughout. My first time in this race: I felt I kept the pace going quite well during the hilly sections around half way, and finished quite strongly. Kate enjoyed herself too. Finished 2nd V35, but no prize!
Time/Position: 36:13 (7th from 477)
Just a little too 'undulating' and twisty to allow me to dip under 36m, but a flatteringly high finishing position was some compensation. Not generally considered to be a PB course, so reasonably pleased to get so close. A lovely rural borderland course, with beautiful cold, sunny and still weather throughout. My first time in this race: I felt I kept the pace going quite well during the hilly sections around half way, and finished quite strongly. Kate enjoyed herself too. Finished 2nd V35, but no prize!
Friday, March 05, 2010
Dash in the Dark fell race
Race: Llandegla Dash in the Dark race 3 (4m/750ft)
Time/Position: 29:30 (2nd from 20)
Deja vu here, in that I started off in the lead, just as I did on the second race a fortnight ago. However, within a few hundred metres the young winner of race two sped past me and went on to win comfortably. Some icy patches slowed the descents through the forest, and the lakeside path was rather boggy. But this time I took the new variant through the reeds and heather, within inches of the water, which added a minute to my finishing time. Another difference was that this time I was pushed all the way by Paul S, but pulled away slightly on the final climb to finish second again. Also picked up a prize for second place overall in the series. As ever, a really enjoyable event.
Time/Position: 29:30 (2nd from 20)
Deja vu here, in that I started off in the lead, just as I did on the second race a fortnight ago. However, within a few hundred metres the young winner of race two sped past me and went on to win comfortably. Some icy patches slowed the descents through the forest, and the lakeside path was rather boggy. But this time I took the new variant through the reeds and heather, within inches of the water, which added a minute to my finishing time. Another difference was that this time I was pushed all the way by Paul S, but pulled away slightly on the final climb to finish second again. Also picked up a prize for second place overall in the series. As ever, a really enjoyable event.
Monday, March 01, 2010
Crib Goch winter traverse
Peaks: Crib Goch
Routes: Crib Goch Traverse (wI/II:sol), East Ridge (wI:sol)
The classic winter traverse in perfect Alpine conditions on St David's Day. Good as that sounds, it wasn't really the game plan for the morning - my sights were set on the Trinities. But after slogging up the Miner's Track from Pen y Pass in stunning conditions of shifting mist and sunburst, it was clear that the snow was too soft and unconsolidated for comfort. I had a look at the gullies anyway, since I'd made the effort. New snow made the going slow as I laboured up the slopes to the Spider, then continued some way into the narrower Left-Hand Trinity (having done Central some years ago) before concluding that there was too much new, drifting snow and descending back to the Pyg track. Crib Goch had looked stunning all morning, unlike the mist-shrouded main peak, and the means of salvaging something from the morning soon presented itself! I left the path, then picked an intricate route to Bwlch Coch up steepish slopes of perfect untouched neve under a deep blue sky: excellent. After emerging at the Bwlch, I climbed the final pinnacle thus getting straight into the trickiest part of the traverse, the exposed ledge. More awkward this way round: it was fully iced-up and therefore interesting. The remaining pinnacles gave entertaining mixed climbing before I gained the ridge: stunning full winter conditions of deep virgin snow on old neve, no footprints, the entire ridge to myself. In other words, a very rare treat and half an hour to savour. After breakfast alone on the sunny summit, watching the mist peel away from an entirely white Carnedd Ugain and dark clouds rolling over Siabod (but me getting sunburned) I descended the East Ridge as the snow softened. Some awkward steps with crampons balling up. I last did the winter traverse, in full conditions, in 1995 - but I don't remember much sunshine. This was therefore a tasty bonus morsel in a winter full of treats.
Routes: Crib Goch Traverse (wI/II:sol), East Ridge (wI:sol)
The classic winter traverse in perfect Alpine conditions on St David's Day. Good as that sounds, it wasn't really the game plan for the morning - my sights were set on the Trinities. But after slogging up the Miner's Track from Pen y Pass in stunning conditions of shifting mist and sunburst, it was clear that the snow was too soft and unconsolidated for comfort. I had a look at the gullies anyway, since I'd made the effort. New snow made the going slow as I laboured up the slopes to the Spider, then continued some way into the narrower Left-Hand Trinity (having done Central some years ago) before concluding that there was too much new, drifting snow and descending back to the Pyg track. Crib Goch had looked stunning all morning, unlike the mist-shrouded main peak, and the means of salvaging something from the morning soon presented itself! I left the path, then picked an intricate route to Bwlch Coch up steepish slopes of perfect untouched neve under a deep blue sky: excellent. After emerging at the Bwlch, I climbed the final pinnacle thus getting straight into the trickiest part of the traverse, the exposed ledge. More awkward this way round: it was fully iced-up and therefore interesting. The remaining pinnacles gave entertaining mixed climbing before I gained the ridge: stunning full winter conditions of deep virgin snow on old neve, no footprints, the entire ridge to myself. In other words, a very rare treat and half an hour to savour. After breakfast alone on the sunny summit, watching the mist peel away from an entirely white Carnedd Ugain and dark clouds rolling over Siabod (but me getting sunburned) I descended the East Ridge as the snow softened. Some awkward steps with crampons balling up. I last did the winter traverse, in full conditions, in 1995 - but I don't remember much sunshine. This was therefore a tasty bonus morsel in a winter full of treats.
Saturday, February 27, 2010
Tremadog climbs
Crag: Craig Pant Ifan/Craig Bwlch y Moch
Routes: Scratch (VS 4b,4b:led p.1), Shadrach (VS 4c,4b,4c:led p.2), Grim Wall (VS 4b,4c:led p.1)
First time on rock since September and, as such, quite good going - particularly as it was raining heavily when I left home. To knock off three classic routes in a February afternoon was satisfying: an unexpectedly good day and a real bonus (particularly given that I actually wanted to climb snow gullies on Clogwyn y Garnedd)! We started on Pant Ifan, where I led up the scrappy and wet initial slabs of Scratch to a short crack before a delightful slabby traverse to the belay. Inevitably, technique/footwork was rusty after this cold winter as I followed Vic up the layback crack in light drizzle, before another traverse across the slabs gains an easy jamming crack to finish. Good varied route. After a snack at the car, we moved across to Bwlch y Moch and did The Brothers start to Shadrach: a polished off-width. I then led an easy but lovely second pitch, Shadrach proper, up the slab on sharp holds (in warm sunshine!) before following Vic up the short crux step off the big flake to a nice direct finish. Grim Wall was then irresistable. I'm pretty sure I've done this before - I definitely remembered the first pitch, a romp across a series of juggy flakes. The top pitch is superb, absorbing, quite intricate and unexpected, easily the best climbing of the day. A little mantel gains good holds and a traverse left to a groove. Then splendid steep moves on big flakey holds straight up the rib. A classic Tremadog day, with all of Snowdonia in drizzly/snowy clag except this micro-climatic coastal strip.
Routes: Scratch (VS 4b,4b:led p.1), Shadrach (VS 4c,4b,4c:led p.2), Grim Wall (VS 4b,4c:led p.1)
First time on rock since September and, as such, quite good going - particularly as it was raining heavily when I left home. To knock off three classic routes in a February afternoon was satisfying: an unexpectedly good day and a real bonus (particularly given that I actually wanted to climb snow gullies on Clogwyn y Garnedd)! We started on Pant Ifan, where I led up the scrappy and wet initial slabs of Scratch to a short crack before a delightful slabby traverse to the belay. Inevitably, technique/footwork was rusty after this cold winter as I followed Vic up the layback crack in light drizzle, before another traverse across the slabs gains an easy jamming crack to finish. Good varied route. After a snack at the car, we moved across to Bwlch y Moch and did The Brothers start to Shadrach: a polished off-width. I then led an easy but lovely second pitch, Shadrach proper, up the slab on sharp holds (in warm sunshine!) before following Vic up the short crux step off the big flake to a nice direct finish. Grim Wall was then irresistable. I'm pretty sure I've done this before - I definitely remembered the first pitch, a romp across a series of juggy flakes. The top pitch is superb, absorbing, quite intricate and unexpected, easily the best climbing of the day. A little mantel gains good holds and a traverse left to a groove. Then splendid steep moves on big flakey holds straight up the rib. A classic Tremadog day, with all of Snowdonia in drizzly/snowy clag except this micro-climatic coastal strip.
Friday, February 19, 2010
Dash in the Dark fell race
Race: Llandegla Dash in the Dark race 2 (4m/750ft)
Time/Position: 28:35 (2nd from 25)
Found myself leading this race after the first few zig-zags. A novel experience, to say the least, but particularly so given the wonderful conditions of soft snow and (obviously) complete darkness. A young lad stayed with me, and we pulled away on the long climb to the Black Grouse hide. I gained a few more metres on him during the descent, but he finally pulled past me as we raced along the flat wall at the end of the lake. My fourth running of this race, always great fun, and I followed the route I'd always done: wrongly, as it turned out, because I missed a 200m long new section at the far end of the lake (as did the leader, whose light I was following). I admitted my error as soon as I found out (after talking to others) but was let off as I was nearly 5 minutes ahead of third place, and the whole event is very relaxed and informal.
Time/Position: 28:35 (2nd from 25)
Found myself leading this race after the first few zig-zags. A novel experience, to say the least, but particularly so given the wonderful conditions of soft snow and (obviously) complete darkness. A young lad stayed with me, and we pulled away on the long climb to the Black Grouse hide. I gained a few more metres on him during the descent, but he finally pulled past me as we raced along the flat wall at the end of the lake. My fourth running of this race, always great fun, and I followed the route I'd always done: wrongly, as it turned out, because I missed a 200m long new section at the far end of the lake (as did the leader, whose light I was following). I admitted my error as soon as I found out (after talking to others) but was let off as I was nearly 5 minutes ahead of third place, and the whole event is very relaxed and informal.
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
Sandstone Trail run
The timing of this was not ideal, but I felt the need for a longer hilly outing before next Sunday's half marathon. Since doing the 17m Sandstone race a few years ago I've been intending to run the rest of the trail - but have only done small sections. Today I started in Frodsham itself and gave myself an hour to get as far as I could, before turning back. A steep climb leads from the town up to Beacon Hill (good views of the snow covered Pennines and Clwydians) before a very pleasant rocky path heads SW along the crags to Woodhouses Hill then south below Alvanley cliff. Boggy going in places: I fell at one point, emerging with just a few cuts. The route then heads south through Manley (where the Helsby half emerges) before entering Delamere Forest. I emerged at Barnes Bridge after 55 minutes: that is, the finishing point of the race. The return run was hard going at times, with heavy hail showers.
Monday, February 15, 2010
Cwm Clyd
Crag: Cwm Clyd
Routes: B Gully (wI/II:sol), A Gully (wI:des), C Gully (wII:sol)
Peaks: Y Garn
Area: Glyderau
Even by recent standards, this was a frenetic pre-breakfast outing up and down three gullies in less than 90 minutes before the weather closed in. Remarkably, this was my first visit to Cwm Clyd for 19 years. In January 1991 Tim and I climbed Banana Gully as our first ever winter route then got lost on Glyder Fawr through careless navigation, descending into Nant Peris: a classic youthful error! Although I've done the ridges many times, winter and summer, I'd never been up the other gullies. It's a lovely little cwm (good choice for a solo day), easily reached by a steep slog from Ogwen, and the weather wasn't as bad as I'd expected as I started up the snow slopes at the back of the cwm. The snowline is very high now, 750m, and it felt mild today. That said, conditions were still good, fresh snow on solid neve, as I left the uniform slope of A gully to enter B gully. An early chockstone was easily turned on good solid snow and turf to the right, before lovely cramponing up gentle slopes led to a slight steepening near the top. Shallow but well defined: a nice route. The mountaineering flavour meant a visit to the summit seemed appropriate, before locating A gully (not easy in thick mist) and enjoyably descending its gentle slopes to the mouth of C gully. This is deeper than the others, twisting and atmospheric, though even gentler than B for most of its length. It twists right and contains a bit of ice and a few chockstones before emerging on gentle snow slopes. I was pushed for time, so downclimbed it rather than topping out, so I could jog down from Cwm Clyd back to Ogwen by 10.30am. Quite heavy snow as I descended (and rain lower down).
Routes: B Gully (wI/II:sol), A Gully (wI:des), C Gully (wII:sol)
Peaks: Y Garn
Area: Glyderau
Even by recent standards, this was a frenetic pre-breakfast outing up and down three gullies in less than 90 minutes before the weather closed in. Remarkably, this was my first visit to Cwm Clyd for 19 years. In January 1991 Tim and I climbed Banana Gully as our first ever winter route then got lost on Glyder Fawr through careless navigation, descending into Nant Peris: a classic youthful error! Although I've done the ridges many times, winter and summer, I'd never been up the other gullies. It's a lovely little cwm (good choice for a solo day), easily reached by a steep slog from Ogwen, and the weather wasn't as bad as I'd expected as I started up the snow slopes at the back of the cwm. The snowline is very high now, 750m, and it felt mild today. That said, conditions were still good, fresh snow on solid neve, as I left the uniform slope of A gully to enter B gully. An early chockstone was easily turned on good solid snow and turf to the right, before lovely cramponing up gentle slopes led to a slight steepening near the top. Shallow but well defined: a nice route. The mountaineering flavour meant a visit to the summit seemed appropriate, before locating A gully (not easy in thick mist) and enjoyably descending its gentle slopes to the mouth of C gully. This is deeper than the others, twisting and atmospheric, though even gentler than B for most of its length. It twists right and contains a bit of ice and a few chockstones before emerging on gentle snow slopes. I was pushed for time, so downclimbed it rather than topping out, so I could jog down from Cwm Clyd back to Ogwen by 10.30am. Quite heavy snow as I descended (and rain lower down).
Sunday, February 14, 2010
Abergele border league
Race: Abergele 5 miles (border league race 4)
Time/Position: 28:39 (19th from 233)
Good conditions and route for fast times (calm, cold, flat). Still, this was an encouraging performance which gave me both a 5 mile PB and my first ever top 20 finish in the league (after 23 or so BL races!). Started off quite fast, nice running along the seafront towards Old Colwyn, then picked up some places on the little hill through the caravan park and finished reasonably strongly. Only my second outing in the league this season.
Time/Position: 28:39 (19th from 233)
Good conditions and route for fast times (calm, cold, flat). Still, this was an encouraging performance which gave me both a 5 mile PB and my first ever top 20 finish in the league (after 23 or so BL races!). Started off quite fast, nice running along the seafront towards Old Colwyn, then picked up some places on the little hill through the caravan park and finished reasonably strongly. Only my second outing in the league this season.
Monday, February 08, 2010
Cwm Caseg
Crag: Cwm Ffynnon Caseg
Routes: Col Route (wI:sol), Elen Gully (wI/II:sol)
Peaks: Yr Elen
Area: Carneddau
I've been looking for an excuse to visit Ffynnon Caseg for many years - arguably the remotest lake in north Wales, and one of the most isolated cwms. Exploring the gentle snow gullies is really the only thing you can do up here, so the prevailing conditions of perfect neve above 700m made it the obvious choice, particularly as this was a solo day. Prospects were very bleak as I walked through Ciltwllan above Bethesda in the murky pre-dawn drizzle. A sharp snow shower, the clag right down, made for a dark, dank start up the boggy lower cwm (last visited as I struggled through the brutal final leg of the Carneddau fell race over Gyrn Wigau a few years ago). The walk-in is about as long as it gets in Wales, but genuinely atmospheric, particularly alone. The valley twists to the south, then climbs to a hidden valley below Cwm Bychan before a final rise to the fabulous Cwm Ffynnon Caseg. After a snow-free valley, the cwm was (as I'd hoped/predicted) a bowl of iron-hard neve, the lake frozen solid. An obvious snow-holding area, 750m up and north-facing. The clag was right down, making it hard to identify potential routes upwards, so I took a bearing from lake to bwlch and went for the conservative option of Col Route. Just a gentle snow slope, which felt quite Alpine in the conditions (partly because I couldn't see the top) and curves to the right above a small buttress. I moved into a shallow gully next to the steeper buttresses and emerged on the nice ridge path to the top of Yr Elen. An enjoyable mountaineering-style ascent, so I continued in the same vein, navigating down to the NE ridge in thick mist. This ridge is Alpine in tone for about 50m(!) before almost immediately petering out into scree slopes. At the bottom, I traversed left into another gully line which I took to be Elen Gully (but which could have been anything: descriptions are fairly meaningless and redundant here, it's just a place to enjoy the scenery and atmosphere). This gave an enjoyable sprint upwards on perfect neve, through a narrowing before emerging near the summit. Back down to some flat boulders above the lake for a wonderful scenic solo breakfast - unsurprisingly, saw nobody all morning. Long walk out, but back in Bethesda before 11.30.
Routes: Col Route (wI:sol), Elen Gully (wI/II:sol)
Peaks: Yr Elen
Area: Carneddau
I've been looking for an excuse to visit Ffynnon Caseg for many years - arguably the remotest lake in north Wales, and one of the most isolated cwms. Exploring the gentle snow gullies is really the only thing you can do up here, so the prevailing conditions of perfect neve above 700m made it the obvious choice, particularly as this was a solo day. Prospects were very bleak as I walked through Ciltwllan above Bethesda in the murky pre-dawn drizzle. A sharp snow shower, the clag right down, made for a dark, dank start up the boggy lower cwm (last visited as I struggled through the brutal final leg of the Carneddau fell race over Gyrn Wigau a few years ago). The walk-in is about as long as it gets in Wales, but genuinely atmospheric, particularly alone. The valley twists to the south, then climbs to a hidden valley below Cwm Bychan before a final rise to the fabulous Cwm Ffynnon Caseg. After a snow-free valley, the cwm was (as I'd hoped/predicted) a bowl of iron-hard neve, the lake frozen solid. An obvious snow-holding area, 750m up and north-facing. The clag was right down, making it hard to identify potential routes upwards, so I took a bearing from lake to bwlch and went for the conservative option of Col Route. Just a gentle snow slope, which felt quite Alpine in the conditions (partly because I couldn't see the top) and curves to the right above a small buttress. I moved into a shallow gully next to the steeper buttresses and emerged on the nice ridge path to the top of Yr Elen. An enjoyable mountaineering-style ascent, so I continued in the same vein, navigating down to the NE ridge in thick mist. This ridge is Alpine in tone for about 50m(!) before almost immediately petering out into scree slopes. At the bottom, I traversed left into another gully line which I took to be Elen Gully (but which could have been anything: descriptions are fairly meaningless and redundant here, it's just a place to enjoy the scenery and atmosphere). This gave an enjoyable sprint upwards on perfect neve, through a narrowing before emerging near the summit. Back down to some flat boulders above the lake for a wonderful scenic solo breakfast - unsurprisingly, saw nobody all morning. Long walk out, but back in Bethesda before 11.30.
Sunday, February 07, 2010
Nick Beer 10k
Race: Nick Beer 10k (Llandudno)
Time/position: 37:37 (19th from 540)
A gentle easterly breeze was a help for the climb around Marine Drive, which goes on for almost 5k. Hazy sunshine for this most scenic of road races, with wonderful views down the cliffs to the sea, but a distinctly average performance from me. I went quite well on the climb (19:20 at 5k), then started to pick up a few places as we entered the West Shore, but again my lack of a sprint finish cost me: four runners went past in the final 200m. Possibly slightly tired: did the Famau run on Friday night, and two speed sessions last week. Still, a nice trip and a well organised race. I was 12 minutes quicker than the last time I did it in 2002, when M was a few weeks old and I was somewhat sleep deprived! Out of the prizes this time: 5th v35.
Time/position: 37:37 (19th from 540)
A gentle easterly breeze was a help for the climb around Marine Drive, which goes on for almost 5k. Hazy sunshine for this most scenic of road races, with wonderful views down the cliffs to the sea, but a distinctly average performance from me. I went quite well on the climb (19:20 at 5k), then started to pick up a few places as we entered the West Shore, but again my lack of a sprint finish cost me: four runners went past in the final 200m. Possibly slightly tired: did the Famau run on Friday night, and two speed sessions last week. Still, a nice trip and a well organised race. I was 12 minutes quicker than the last time I did it in 2002, when M was a few weeks old and I was somewhat sleep deprived! Out of the prizes this time: 5th v35.
Saturday, January 30, 2010
Cwm Cneifion winter climbs
Crag: Clogwyn Du/Cwm Cneifion
Routes: Clogwyn Y Gully Righthand (wIII 3,3:led p.1), Tower Slabs (wII/III 2/3:led), Easy Route (wI:descent)
Peaks: Glyder Fawr
Area: Glyderau
An obvious choice of venue, given the recent weather pattern of freeze-thaw cycles which inevitably strip everything below 700m while solidifying north-facing cwms higher up. After a cold night, we hit upon perfect conditions here today after the steep walk-in. Iron-hard neve combined with a reasonable ice build-up to give superb conditions on the easier routes. A pseudo-Alpine feel to proceedings - crisp blue skies above - as I led the easy first pitch of Clogwyn Righthand, which traverses right to gain a shallow gully of excellent neve with interesting short sections of steeper ice. Vic then led a huge second pitch which proved the wisdom of the route choice - it was in near-perfect nick. Good solid ice leads to the narrow and atmospheric gully proper. Up this on iron hard snow and frozen turf, straitforward but superb climbing, to steeper moves out right to shallower slopes and a final few metres of good water ice over a constriction in the gully to the belay. I led a short, simple final pitch to finish: a great route on the day, really enjoyable. We moved up to the sun-drenched plateau of Glyder Fawr for fine views and a snack, before an absorbing and enjoyable descent of Easy Route on more good neve. I've been up and down this mountaineering route several times before (in fact, according to my records I did 5 long winter routes in one day in Cwm Cneifion in 1993: must have been fitter then!). After more food, we moved across to the other side of the cwm where I led Tower Slabs in one big pitch. Chose to focus on the central section, which seemed most continuous, with good snow leading to a few metres of water ice before quickly easing back to gentle slabby climbing. We descended slopes further right before the long walk back to Ogwen, during which it clouded over with a sharp snow flurry covering the lower slopes. A good day, topped off by lobster risotto in the evening!
Routes: Clogwyn Y Gully Righthand (wIII 3,3:led p.1), Tower Slabs (wII/III 2/3:led), Easy Route (wI:descent)
Peaks: Glyder Fawr
Area: Glyderau
An obvious choice of venue, given the recent weather pattern of freeze-thaw cycles which inevitably strip everything below 700m while solidifying north-facing cwms higher up. After a cold night, we hit upon perfect conditions here today after the steep walk-in. Iron-hard neve combined with a reasonable ice build-up to give superb conditions on the easier routes. A pseudo-Alpine feel to proceedings - crisp blue skies above - as I led the easy first pitch of Clogwyn Righthand, which traverses right to gain a shallow gully of excellent neve with interesting short sections of steeper ice. Vic then led a huge second pitch which proved the wisdom of the route choice - it was in near-perfect nick. Good solid ice leads to the narrow and atmospheric gully proper. Up this on iron hard snow and frozen turf, straitforward but superb climbing, to steeper moves out right to shallower slopes and a final few metres of good water ice over a constriction in the gully to the belay. I led a short, simple final pitch to finish: a great route on the day, really enjoyable. We moved up to the sun-drenched plateau of Glyder Fawr for fine views and a snack, before an absorbing and enjoyable descent of Easy Route on more good neve. I've been up and down this mountaineering route several times before (in fact, according to my records I did 5 long winter routes in one day in Cwm Cneifion in 1993: must have been fitter then!). After more food, we moved across to the other side of the cwm where I led Tower Slabs in one big pitch. Chose to focus on the central section, which seemed most continuous, with good snow leading to a few metres of water ice before quickly easing back to gentle slabby climbing. We descended slopes further right before the long walk back to Ogwen, during which it clouded over with a sharp snow flurry covering the lower slopes. A good day, topped off by lobster risotto in the evening!
Monday, January 25, 2010
Beyond Hope
A much needed long hilly training run, from HK over the shoulder of Hope Mountain to Pontybodkin and the long climb up to Treuddyn. Then up to the highpoint of the run at Cae Hic, before the lengthy descent to Llanfynydd. This is the third time I've done this 18-20 miler, and the final killer climb back over the top of Waun y Llyn doesn't get any easier!
Saturday, January 23, 2010
Twin Piers 10k
Race: Twin Piers 10k (Llandudno-Colwyn Bay)
Time/Position: 36:02 (11th from 372)
Nice to be back racing again after all the recent weather-related cancellations. As such, this was an encouraging performance given the lack of meaningful speedwork. It must be the best 10k in the region - nice atmosphere and a satisfying point-to-point seaside course. I did it in 43 mins four years ago! Conditions today were good: coldish, with no wind (although a tail wind would have been nice). Annoyingly, my stopwatch failed immediately, therefore I had no idea of my time throughout the race. This was a problem, as sub 36 was my target. I just had to run hard throughout, try to keep Jez and Neil in sight, and hope for the best - although the field spread out quickly. The sharp hill over the Little Orme was a help, injecting a bit of variety, and I kept it going quite well through Rhos, picking up a few places. I only saw the time when I glimpsed the finish line clock in the final 200m, realised I was close to my target, and pelted to the line. The clock read 35:59 as I went through, but the time was recorded as just over, and I just missed a top 10 finish. I did have the consolation of 3rd v35 though.
Time/Position: 36:02 (11th from 372)
Nice to be back racing again after all the recent weather-related cancellations. As such, this was an encouraging performance given the lack of meaningful speedwork. It must be the best 10k in the region - nice atmosphere and a satisfying point-to-point seaside course. I did it in 43 mins four years ago! Conditions today were good: coldish, with no wind (although a tail wind would have been nice). Annoyingly, my stopwatch failed immediately, therefore I had no idea of my time throughout the race. This was a problem, as sub 36 was my target. I just had to run hard throughout, try to keep Jez and Neil in sight, and hope for the best - although the field spread out quickly. The sharp hill over the Little Orme was a help, injecting a bit of variety, and I kept it going quite well through Rhos, picking up a few places. I only saw the time when I glimpsed the finish line clock in the final 200m, realised I was close to my target, and pelted to the line. The clock read 35:59 as I went through, but the time was recorded as just over, and I just missed a top 10 finish. I did have the consolation of 3rd v35 though.
Wednesday, January 13, 2010
Crowded Idwal ice
Crag: Cwm Idwal
Route: The Ramp (wII/III 2,3,1: led in 2 p's)
An opportunistic and very brief visit before the forecast thaw sets in. Sadly, the day was marred by (without wishing to be rude) two incompetent buffoons who spent a ridiculous amount of time on this very simple route and thereby prevented us from doing anything else that day. Rather vexing, given that this is likely to be the last opportunity for a while, as the thaw sets in. Alwyn and I slogged up to the crags in very deep snow and thick mist: Idwal now just a bowl of white, the lake almost invisible. Dismayed to find three pairs queuing for The Ramp, particularly as we didn't even get there until early afternoon! As a rule, I refuse to queue for routes, but conditions were so perfect that we made an exception: also, crowds are inevitable whenever you go to Idwal in these conditions. The first pitch, when it came, was longer and more interesting than I'd expected: a couple of little icy pitches breaking up the uniform easy shallow gully. The stance was crowded but rather enchanting. A fully formed grotto of blue ice - a little rock cave almost entirely enclosed by enormous 2m-wide grounded blue icicles, with soft snowflakes falling outside. After another wait, I led the second pitch - the first 10 metres of which constitutes the only real climbing on the entire route, but even this is very simple, just a few fun moves on excellent ice to more good, easy-angled ice. It then curves round to a big block on the right, after which I just ran out the full 60m on easy snow to a belay. By now it was 4pm and too late to do Central Route, which I'd planned, so we just descended to the car.
Route: The Ramp (wII/III 2,3,1: led in 2 p's)
An opportunistic and very brief visit before the forecast thaw sets in. Sadly, the day was marred by (without wishing to be rude) two incompetent buffoons who spent a ridiculous amount of time on this very simple route and thereby prevented us from doing anything else that day. Rather vexing, given that this is likely to be the last opportunity for a while, as the thaw sets in. Alwyn and I slogged up to the crags in very deep snow and thick mist: Idwal now just a bowl of white, the lake almost invisible. Dismayed to find three pairs queuing for The Ramp, particularly as we didn't even get there until early afternoon! As a rule, I refuse to queue for routes, but conditions were so perfect that we made an exception: also, crowds are inevitable whenever you go to Idwal in these conditions. The first pitch, when it came, was longer and more interesting than I'd expected: a couple of little icy pitches breaking up the uniform easy shallow gully. The stance was crowded but rather enchanting. A fully formed grotto of blue ice - a little rock cave almost entirely enclosed by enormous 2m-wide grounded blue icicles, with soft snowflakes falling outside. After another wait, I led the second pitch - the first 10 metres of which constitutes the only real climbing on the entire route, but even this is very simple, just a few fun moves on excellent ice to more good, easy-angled ice. It then curves round to a big block on the right, after which I just ran out the full 60m on easy snow to a belay. By now it was 4pm and too late to do Central Route, which I'd planned, so we just descended to the car.
Sunday, January 10, 2010
North face of Bryn Alyn!
A wacky attempt to work out a novelty winter mountaineering route in the Clwydians. The remarkable conditions provoked me, but it is clearly an impossible task: the steepest 'face' in the range is probably the northern slope of Bryn Alyn, and that is sufficiently steep for all of 60 metres or so. From the Burley Hill bridleway I ploughed up an obvious shallow 'gully' to the terrace traversed by the normal flanking footpath (the only landmark hereabouts is a little pinnacle on the crags just left of where this 'gully' emerges). Then steeply up very deep snow to gain a shelf leading left to a tiny vague gully with a tree at the top. I squeezed behind this to a miniature ridge which led to the top. Exhausting waist-deep drifts led across the plateau to the normal flanking path. A ridiculous outing.
Saturday, January 09, 2010
Clwydian run
After an unsuccessful sledging trip, I took the opportunity to run from Llanferres over Foel Fenlli to Penbarras, then up to Moel Famau. Thick drifts made Fenlli a bit of a struggle in both directions, but superb and highly unusual views compensated. The return over Fenlli was particularly memorable: a setting sun, waist/chest deep drifts, the snow lit pink. Even some potential avalanche risk in places: obvious windslab forming a bergshrund on the western slopes of Moel Eithinen! Fantastic snowy running all week - well over 40 miles, but all of them slow! Through ice-draped woods in Eccleston yesterday evening, for example, ice floes on the Dee.
Thursday, January 07, 2010
Waun y Llyn run
A hugely enjoyable run from the house to the top of Waun y Llyn through a landscape utterly transformed by the snow. A regular run of mine, made memorable by the conditions. The lanes were all hard snow-pack, very icy but runnable in fell shoes, then steeply up to the summit as the sun set. Never thought I would experience alpenglow on Hope Mountain, but I did today. Then along the ridge, the drifting snow lit orange by the setting sun, to an icy and dark descent back to HK. Running my regular 10k circuit at the height of the snowstorm on Tuesday evening was equally memorable!
Monday, January 04, 2010
Idwal ice
Crag: Cwm Idwal
Routes: Idwal Stream (wII/III 3,3,2: led p.1,3), Introductory Gully (wII: led p.2)
A glorious contrast to the last few outings in that I finally got superb conditions, as this fantastic cold snap continues. A dreamlike early start in the dark with the moon directly above the summit of Y Garn. Idwal a bowl of ice and snow - thick cover throughout, the lake frozen solid, all beautiful shades of blue and white with little rock visible. We made our way up to the Idwal Stream which was a predictable choice as the ultimate easy winter trade route, but in such perfect nick today that we had to do it. I led up good thick water ice to perfect neve and a stance, before following Alwyn up an even better pitch up a steeper wall on wonderful snow-ice. We picked the most direct, steepest line throughout - around Grade III but never remotely difficult or serious, just short steps, and I continued direct over a little bulge to a stance surrounded by rimed rocks, blue ice and thick snow. We moved together for the rest of the route, which is very gentle, until emerging on the Llyn y Cwn plateau for breakfast. An easy descent in thick, often drifting snow, took us past the Devil's Kitchen to the Ramp, which we wanted to do. However, the place was swarming with climbers and queues had built up, so we continued down to Introductory Gully - which is low down and rarely in any kind of condition. Another easy route, but worthwhile. Followed Alwyn up the first pitch - thin initially - to better neve and a belay. I then led the second on firmer neve. An awkward, very tiring climb through chest-deep drifts allowed us to traverse below the upper cliff to gain an easy descent. Back by lunchtime.
Routes: Idwal Stream (wII/III 3,3,2: led p.1,3), Introductory Gully (wII: led p.2)
A glorious contrast to the last few outings in that I finally got superb conditions, as this fantastic cold snap continues. A dreamlike early start in the dark with the moon directly above the summit of Y Garn. Idwal a bowl of ice and snow - thick cover throughout, the lake frozen solid, all beautiful shades of blue and white with little rock visible. We made our way up to the Idwal Stream which was a predictable choice as the ultimate easy winter trade route, but in such perfect nick today that we had to do it. I led up good thick water ice to perfect neve and a stance, before following Alwyn up an even better pitch up a steeper wall on wonderful snow-ice. We picked the most direct, steepest line throughout - around Grade III but never remotely difficult or serious, just short steps, and I continued direct over a little bulge to a stance surrounded by rimed rocks, blue ice and thick snow. We moved together for the rest of the route, which is very gentle, until emerging on the Llyn y Cwn plateau for breakfast. An easy descent in thick, often drifting snow, took us past the Devil's Kitchen to the Ramp, which we wanted to do. However, the place was swarming with climbers and queues had built up, so we continued down to Introductory Gully - which is low down and rarely in any kind of condition. Another easy route, but worthwhile. Followed Alwyn up the first pitch - thin initially - to better neve and a belay. I then led the second on firmer neve. An awkward, very tiring climb through chest-deep drifts allowed us to traverse below the upper cliff to gain an easy descent. Back by lunchtime.
Saturday, January 02, 2010
Black Ladders ice
Crag: Ysgolion Duon
Routes: Central Gully (wIII 3,2,3,2,1,1: Led p.2,5)
Peaks: Carnedd Dafydd
Area: Carneddau
A memorable start to 2010: this was a long and satisfying mountain day centred on a tremendous and atmospheric 1000ft-long gully line up one of the most impressive (and classically 'seasonal') crags in Wales. Pretty awful weather throughout, contrary to the forecast, which all added a certain piquancy to what is actually a fairly simple mountaineering route. A pre-dawn semi-Alpine start was refreshing, but hard work, as we ploughed up Cwm Llafur in the half-light at 7.45. The notoriously long walk to the Ladders was made harder by deep snow as we entered thick clag near Llech Ddu then slogged up to where we hoped the base of the crag was! A brief clearance miraculously revealed the entire very impressive face, draped in ice and snow, seemingly in perfect nick. We contoured across to the base of Central Gully, an immense and deeply incised cauldron and a very compelling winter line, although upward views were soon swallowed by the mist. Vic led a long pitch up the superb initial ice pitch - great fun, steepish, but all too short - which led to another little wall followed by an easy ramp of soft snow into the gully proper. I then led up a short icy wall to gain the easy slopes of the huge main gully up to the cave. The weather then worsened - spindrift pouring down from the upper slopes, freezing wind, and very poor visibility as Vic traversed the gully to ledges on the left. I got pretty cold at the stance, serious wind chill and heavy snow showers, before enjoying the traverse followed by an awkward chimney which led to a stance in a small cave. We then traversed the walls of the gully in worsening weather to gain a rock saddle. Dire conditions now, strong winds and snow swirling around as I ploughed up the easy slopes of the upper gully to belay off a wedged axe. The visibility was so bad as I followed Vic up the top pitch that it was initially hard to detect the top of the gully as we emerged on the Carneddau plateau in howling winds and a white-out. A tiring but satisfying struggle into the teeth of the wind along the ridge gained the top of Dafydd. Things gradually improved as we navigated down the broad ridge to the north in appalling visibility, getting the dog-leg spot on to finally gain a view of Bethesda's twinkling lights as we finally emerged from the clag just above Cwm Llafur. Dark as we arrived in Gerlan.
Routes: Central Gully (wIII 3,2,3,2,1,1: Led p.2,5)
Peaks: Carnedd Dafydd
Area: Carneddau
A memorable start to 2010: this was a long and satisfying mountain day centred on a tremendous and atmospheric 1000ft-long gully line up one of the most impressive (and classically 'seasonal') crags in Wales. Pretty awful weather throughout, contrary to the forecast, which all added a certain piquancy to what is actually a fairly simple mountaineering route. A pre-dawn semi-Alpine start was refreshing, but hard work, as we ploughed up Cwm Llafur in the half-light at 7.45. The notoriously long walk to the Ladders was made harder by deep snow as we entered thick clag near Llech Ddu then slogged up to where we hoped the base of the crag was! A brief clearance miraculously revealed the entire very impressive face, draped in ice and snow, seemingly in perfect nick. We contoured across to the base of Central Gully, an immense and deeply incised cauldron and a very compelling winter line, although upward views were soon swallowed by the mist. Vic led a long pitch up the superb initial ice pitch - great fun, steepish, but all too short - which led to another little wall followed by an easy ramp of soft snow into the gully proper. I then led up a short icy wall to gain the easy slopes of the huge main gully up to the cave. The weather then worsened - spindrift pouring down from the upper slopes, freezing wind, and very poor visibility as Vic traversed the gully to ledges on the left. I got pretty cold at the stance, serious wind chill and heavy snow showers, before enjoying the traverse followed by an awkward chimney which led to a stance in a small cave. We then traversed the walls of the gully in worsening weather to gain a rock saddle. Dire conditions now, strong winds and snow swirling around as I ploughed up the easy slopes of the upper gully to belay off a wedged axe. The visibility was so bad as I followed Vic up the top pitch that it was initially hard to detect the top of the gully as we emerged on the Carneddau plateau in howling winds and a white-out. A tiring but satisfying struggle into the teeth of the wind along the ridge gained the top of Dafydd. Things gradually improved as we navigated down the broad ridge to the north in appalling visibility, getting the dog-leg spot on to finally gain a view of Bethesda's twinkling lights as we finally emerged from the clag just above Cwm Llafur. Dark as we arrived in Gerlan.
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