OMM Howgills

Peaks: Arant How, Breaks Head, West Fell, Green Bell, Wild Boar Fell, Swarth Fell

An ill-fated attempt at the OMM elite in perfect weather conditions. After my slowest 10k time for 5 years, I'd been feeling sluggish all week with a developing cold, but still wasn't fully prepared for quite how bad I felt within 30 minutes of starting day one. This was a serious problem, as the weather was good (although desperately cold, following a night of -3c spent in the back of Mick's car in Sedbergh), and Mick was fully prepared for the big two days in the hills. However, the scale of the Elite course is such that you need 100% fitness and commitment to have any chance of success. We contoured round a gap between two hills to pick up the second checkpoint at the top of the steep valley below Brant Fell. Superb views as the sun rose and lit the frosty northern slopes of the hills. I began to struggle immediately on the very steep climb west towards Arant How, although perked up for the run down to CP3 in a hidden re-entrant. Then came a massive 8k leg, for which I picked a decent route contouring the western valleys to pick up the big stream valley coming down from Breaks Head. We finally crested this at the obvious col SE of the summit, ending up in terrain familiar from the 2009 Rab. Good sunny running down the ridge, really good, led to more contouring and CP4, after which we ran up Langdale for another sadistic leg involving two huge climbs over West Fell to Bowderdale, then over another ridge to Weasdale before dibbing CP5 below the summit of Green Bell. I was now really suffering, and very unsure about what to do. A series of easy checkpoints lef across the road to leave the Howgills and enter the very different limestone terrain to the east. After finding a rather technical CP5, hidden in a small valley alongside many other valleys, we realised we were actually doing quite well. My route planning early on combined with Mick's excellent micro-navigation to land us bang-on every control with maximum efficiency. But I could not sort my legs and lungs out, as I felt myself enveloped by my cold. The boggy climb up Wild Boar Fell was a desperate struggle as a result. My feet had now had five hours of icing and were completely numb, which didn't help - neither did the fact that the checkpoint involved a scramble down the steep east slope from the summit followed by a trog through a Maritime Alps style boulder field to gain an obvious small lake. I felt like I was damaging myself now, and was also mindful of the fact that I'd be running for Wales in two weeks time, so called it a day on Swarth Fell. I was gutted for Mick, but he understood and had already realised that I wasn't myself. Having been let down by a partner retirement myself in 2007, however, I knew what it felt like. So we trudged back west to the overnight camp before embarking on the ultimate walk of shame, 12k or so back to the car at Sedbergh, ironically increasing our mileage for the day to well over 42k.

Caernarfon Border League

Race: Caernarfon 10k (Border League race 1) 
Time/Position: 36:40 (18th from 256 [4th V40])
A mystifying 40 seconds slower than the Welsh Championship race round the same course six weeks ago, which was itself my slowest 10k for three years. No excuses either, because unlike many of the other runners I didn't do the cross-country race at Colwyn Bay yesterday. Moreover, I've had a few formal intervals sessions in recent weeks, whereas I was just coming off a summer in the hills at the Championships: so it's all rather puzzling, almost 2.5 minutes slower than my best 10k time this year. I started off a little too fast today, perhaps, going through 5k in 17:26, unlike the Champs when was a lot more conservative. I pushed the first hill a bit today, and was in 11th place at this point. But I began to struggle at 6k, losing time and places - this got worse on the last climb at 8k and several runners charged past.

Llandegla biking

MTB Route: Llandegla Blue Circuit
Distance/Climb: 12k/200m
Finally managed to persuade M to have another go on his mountain bike this morning, although it turned in to a minor disaster just as we were enjoying the singletrack. The place was rammed, bafflingly so, and M struggled again on the long gentle climb. I had to push his bike on several occasions. A few whoops indicated he was enjoying the first downhill of the True Blue section, however - but after a few minutes I stopped to watch him on a steep berm. He didn't arrive, and I saw him 200m away with a completely wrecked rear derailleur - the same problem that affected his bike in May. This was a problem, as we were a long way from the car. The volume of riders made it quite dangerous to walk down the track, so I took M for a diversion down the fireroads from Shotton View, managing to find a few short cuts from past knowledge.

UK fell race relay championships

Race: Fell race relays, Shropshire (leg 3-navigation)
Time/Position: 1:13:34 (45th from 155)
Our first appearance in the relays since they came to Llangynhafal in 2008. This year, its Shropshire location meant it became feasible for our small club again and we managed to get six runners together initially. However, we lost two key men to injury last week, so we had to desperately cast around for replacements at the eleventh hour, just managing to gather six runners together on Friday evening. So a somewhat weaker team finally made the startline in Church Stretton, a delightful location on a delightful day: frosty, very clear, very sunny. Simon got us off to a good start, before John and Dawn put in a strong performance on the tough second leg - which echoed parts of the classic Long Mynd Valleys race that I last did three or four years ago. We'd just entered the 'holding pen' when they arrived, and it was time for Jeff and I to set off on the navigation leg. This replicates Mountain Marathon style navigation - in that it contains relatively long macro legs. However, the course was well set out and there were fewer crocodiles of runners, and more route choice, than I'd expected. We set off up a steep climb with a good path to the obvious col between Yearlet and Ashlet. I picked up a trod and we contoured SW to a very steep direct descent to the lovely steep-sided Ashes Hollow, which I remembered well from the Long Mynd Valleys race. Up this to the first checkpoint, gaining a few places, then I was surprised to see 20+ runners ploughing up the steep direct route to CP2. I resisted the urge to follow, opting for the northern continuation of the valley then striking NW up a tiny side valley in a direct line towards the checkpoint. Looking behind me, I saw that I was being followed by another 20+ runners! We crested the boggy plateau of Pole Bank/Long Mynd and had clearly made a decent decision as we were now ahead of several of the teams who'd gone direct. From the summit at Pole Bank, superb fast running along the Mynd to a well-hidden third checkpoint in the upper reaches of Carding Mill valley, before a steep climb up another spur led to more decision-making. I went direct to the south across awkward heather, with Jeff slowing slightly, and went a tad too far east before righting myself to pick up CP4 below Yearlet. The run-in was absolutely superb, taking an obvious exposed contour line along a narrow path poised above the valley before dibbing the fifth CP on top of the small hill above Devils Mouth. Fantastic running down to the finish, with wonderful clear, sunny views over to Caer Caradog and the Lawley - reminding me of the Skyline race and the Cardington Cracker which both take in these hills. Jeff struggled a tiny bit on the steepest descents and climbs, although in general he did really well considering this was all fairly new for him. The final run-in took in some lovely woodland before the steep and atmospheric final descent to the crowds at the finish. An excellent and enjoyable outing, with the team just about squeezing into the top half of the results.

Clwydian run

Rather tired this week after the Manx, but wanted to keep the mileage quite high in preparation for the OMM. The full Famau run last night, along with a longish run with John B on Wednesday and other shorter runs and rides meant I'd avoided a rest day since the Manx. I had some time spare this afternoon, so left Cadole for the Leat path then up to the bridleway before dropping down to Cilcain and following the Excalibur route over to the base of Moel Arthur: a repeat of the run I did last month. An extended route up the front, then down to OD and along to Dywyll. After Dywyll, I began to bonk slightly (having not had a proper lunch after covering an open day this morning), then the energy supplies really crashed below the top of Famau. Gentle jogging until I recovered to drop back down via a few extensions back to the Collie.

Manx Mountain Marathon

Race: Manx Mountain Marathon (50k/8500ft/AL)
Peaks: North Barrule, Clagh Ouyr, Snaefell, Beinn y Phott, Carraghan, Colden, Lhargee Ruy, Slieau Ruy, Greeba Mountain, Slieau Whallian, South Barrule, Cronk ny Arrey Laa, Lhiattee ny Beinnee, Bradda Hill
Time/Position: 6:19:44 (11th from 85)
There are not many things more appealing or satisfying than a long race across the spine of an island, taking in virtually every peak. This is a classic and long-established event: a genuine fell race rather than some ego exercise for yuppies. I've wanted to do it for years, but was always thwarted by the Easter start. So a change of dates this year offered a great opportunity to give it a go. I knew I didn't have the legs or recent mileage to properly race it over this distance, but I did think the climbing should be OK given the Alpine/Scottish days I've had this year, as long as I took it all very slowly! We (Dave, Jez and myself) arrived from Liverpool on Friday, then had an unpleasant alarm call at 5.15am to catch the bus from Douglas to Ramsey. A superb sunrise over the Irish Sea as we jogged along Ramsey prom: an amazing weather window in a diabolical week with widespread flooding, my 2012 weather luck holding yet again. That said, after the climb through the forest and up through very boggy moorland to the steep summit cone of North Barrule, the wind picked up and made life rather unpleasant. Not a direct headwind, perhaps, but enough to make progress pretty difficult along the fine ridge. Through watery eyes, there was a great impression of being on an island: sea on both sides of the ridge and excellent though cold and boggy running along the crest to Clagh Ouyr. This was the windiest spot on the route, and it was a battle just to stamp the checkpoint on the summit. From here, a fast descent led to the Black Hut on the TT route and a steep climb up Snaefell. By now, I was well behind the leading runners and some way ahead of those behind, so route finding became an issue, particularly as a little mist was playing around the summit of Snaefell. I took an ultra cautious bearing before enjoying the superb fast descent down to Bungalow and Brandywell. A short climb up Beinn y Phott, some food, and prospects were looking good. Gentle jogging, just enjoying the unfolding and ever-changing scenery as we gradually headed south over Carraghan before an awkward and tussocky descent led to the beautiful glen at Injebreck. Wonderful warm sunshine as we crossed a little river, then a tough, heathery and lengthy climb up Colden: one of the race's toughest sections. The ridge over Lhargee Ruy and Slieau Ruy was boggy and windy, but went well to a long descent down to the very pretty, pastoral and sun-drenched valley of the Greeba. A level bridleway led to St John's, the half way point. The stiff climb up Slieau Whallian was another crux: I was completely alone for the steep haul through conifers to gain pleasant open hillside and the start of excellent seaviews towards to western coast, which got better from the very boggy and long climb up South Barrule. The final section, from the Round Table to the coastal path, was the finest of all. A wonderful scenic contrast with the mountainous early sections. Classic Celtic coastal scenery, still very hilly indeed as we climbed over Arrey Laa. Indeed, my favourite part of the entire race was the 'bonus' hill, new for this year: Lliattee ny Beinnee, particularly as I got my second wind here. The path skirted the cliff edge, with brilliant exposed views over the sea at Eairnyerey and a terrific fast descent down to the lovely little cove of Fleshwick Bay. One more steep climb up Bradda Hill, tiring now, before the delicious final grassy descent to Bradda Head and the welcome site of the finish at Port Erin. Jez was already there, so we retired to the Falcon's Nest for some fine Manx ale, sunny sea views, and a good feed, before meeting Dave a little later that afternoon.

Barrel run

'Race': Colomendy Barrel Run
Time: 14:54
An informal novelty event organised by John M from the Collie, involving a deep river crossing, the painful transportation of an awkward beer barrel and some appalling smelling running clothes. After a rather long (7 mile!) warm-up out towards Rhydymwyn, I acted as guinea pig for the race proper as I had to get home early. The route was a lot of fun, down towards the steps from the pub, across the Alyn (fairly deep after lots of rain) before picking up the beer barrel at Loggerheads. John had helpfully left the stopper out, so ancient vinegary beer trickled down my ear and into my remaining hair as I hoisted it on to my shoulders. The smell was quite repulsive, so I rapidly shifted tactics and held the barrel in front of me for the rather public run up the main road to Cadole and the pub!

Ala Archa walk, Kyrgyzstan

A whistlestop research trip to the Central Asian country of Kyrgyzstan, which just happens to be characterised by superb mountain scenery. After an early morning arrival at Manas airport, I made my way to the rooftop restaurant of the hotel to stunning views of the Ala Too range which tower above the capital Bishkek. Although I had little time at my disposal for leisure, I soon arranged for a taxi to take me up to the Ala Archa valley, which is well known as the most accessible way of penetrating the mountains from Bishkek. Sure enough, in around an hour we arrived at the roadhead in a superb valley. The Ala Too is essentially a subsidiary range to the legendary Tien Shan 'celestial' mountains which rise to 7,400m at Pik Pobedy on the Kyrgyz/Chinese border. Here, the mountains were a lot lower, at around 5000m, but the superb crystal clear weather still allowed for some cracking views up to Korona and Free Korea peak from our highpoint near the roadhead. It was, naturally, very frustrating to be unable to get onto the peaks properly - but I was just glad to have had the opportunity to get up here. My young driver, Joldosh, had perfect English having spent a year working at Pret a Manger in Kensington! He'd brought his partner along for the ride, so we all had a delightful walk down through the juniper woods (after which Ala Archa is named), to the glacial Ala Archa river which was a remarkable light blue colour at this point. The trees were just beginning to turn to autumnal shades and the weather was wonderful. It was 30C+ in Bishkek, but here light breezes and the altitude rendered it delightfully comfortable, with deep blue skies and crystal clear views. Walked up and down the valley for a while, realising with some frustration that it would have been relatively simple to have nipped up one of the lower peaks in a day, particularly as the conditions were so good.

Tremadog climbing

Crag: Upper Tier, Tremadog
Routes: Falling Block Crack (S 4a:led), MTN (S 4a:led), Mistook (VS 4c:sec), Madog (VS 4c:sec), Quatre Fois Direct (VS 4c:sec)
With a long flight to Kyrgyzstan tomorrow, and a distinct lack of climbing all year, my heart wasn't really in it today. We only had the morning at our disposal, and I wanted some relaxed leading to try to get back into the swing of things, so we headed to the Upper Tier near Pant Ifan. In my many trips to Tremadog, I have never bothered with it before as it seems such a poor relation to the bigger classics on the main crags. However, it is a lovely spot giving better views than the other crags - along with a much longer (but scenic) walk-in. Groups can be a problem, but we had it to ourselves. More rain as I led the obvious line of Falling Block Crack which takes a juggy wall to a wide crack with one tricky move. MTN gave more relaxed climbing, which was just what I needed. A slabby crack to a ledge before a thin final crack up a second wall led to a mantel finish. Mistook is quite technical at the start, up twin cracks, then finishes up a slabby wall. All these routes are longer than I'd expected, 25-28m, and they pack quite a lot of climbing in: good pitches. Madog took a wet wall on Moelwyn style bubbly rock before taking a right-leaning crack - excellent jamming - to the top. Vic's final lead was the best, another gently technical thin crack before a superb finish up the harder right-hand finishing crack taken by neighbouring route Meirionydd.

Bwlch y Moch climbing

Crag: Craig Bwlch y Moch, Tremadog
Routes: Kestrel Cracks (VS 4c:sec)
Over a year since my last trip to Tremadog and the weather this evening was exactly the same as it was then. The usual pattern is to head here for good weather, but drizzle turned to steady rain as I arrived at Eric's. We had very little time, so Vic suggested heading up to Kestrel Cracks, which I've done before and know stays reasonably dry. As I've done very little climbing this year, I seconded him up the steep but juggy groove which leads to a strenuous back-and-foot move over the little bulge at the top. It was all fairly dry, but steady rain at the stance made the second pitch an unappealing prospect. It's not as good anyway, so we abbed off and retired to the Ship in Portmadog for refreshments.

Clwydian run

An attempt at a longer run to increase the mileage before the forthcoming Manx Mountain Marathon and OMM elite. Not very successful, yet again, and I felt sluggish throughout. Left Cadole for the Leat path then up to the bridleway before dropping down to Cilcain and following the Excalibur route over to the base of Moel Arthur. An extended route over and round the summit, then along OD to Dywyll and Famau before dropping back down via a few extensions back to Cadole. No more than 17 miles, so not a good confidence boost.

Moel Wnion fell race

Race: Ras Moel Wnion (British Championships)
Time/Position: 45:47 (41st from 98)
Perhaps the strongest field I've ever competed in, after 260 or so races. I remember doing some British Championship races many years ago, but I think this was probably more competitive as it was the final race of the season. It was also a Welsh Champs counter, and unfortunately I had to do it because of my disastrous error at Mynydd Troed in April - which rendered my score effectively null and void. The start today, from the fields above Aber, was relentless - going up the track to the west of the Foel Fras race descent. Quite demoralising as I found myself well down the field, feeling very rough, to make matters worse! I struggled all the way up the climb, suffering in the heat (a sunny and hot day for once) and not going at all well. The plateau at the top was a little better, and the usual tremendous sea views enlivened the return trip, as did the views of the Carneddau. Predictably, however, I lost even more places on a very sluggish descent and recorded my lowest finishing position for at least six years, barely squeezing into the top half of the field. I remember doing the old Moel Wnion race in 2007, but that went up from Rachub and included a cracking descent which took in Moel Faban.

Caernarfon 10k

Race: Caernarfon 10k (Welsh 10k Championships)
Time/Position: 36:00 (14th from 201 [2nd V40])
Although this was my slowest 10k for almost three years, I was quite pleased with the performance having been selected to run for North Wales again this year. As with my last appearance in Cardiff 2010, the timing of the Welsh 10k Championships presents a bit of a conundrum: after a summer racing and climbing in the mountains, how do you convert effectively to road without doing any proper speed work? I haven't worked out a solution, so this went as well as could be expected. I felt far more comfortable than at Capenhurst last week: after a quickish first km (3:18) I got into a small coherent group and we plodded along the seafront around 30m behind the tight lead group. Worked a bit with Jez into a light headwind, but (knowing the course well from the border league) I was concentrating on saving energy for the tough second half. After a sharp hill I hit the 5k point at 18:00, the slow pace some reassurance that I wouldn't blow on the second half. In the event, I kept exactly the same pace going over all the hills, and passed a couple of runners on the final sharp climb after 8k. Shame there were no other regional teams present, as our North Wales Veterans team put in a decent performance. We ended up winning the gold medal by default, and I came away with category silver in the Welsh and North Wales Championships.

Moel Famau fell race

Race: Cilcain Mountain Race (5m/1237ft/AS)
Time/Position: 36.37 (7th from 181 [4th V40])
A disappointing minute slower than last year: I could blame a strong headwind near the summit, or unusually heavy going underfoot, but these excuses would be clutching at straws. I initially thought it was my 10th consecutive running of the race, and therefore an anniversary of sorts, but think I must have missed a year - 2004 probably. Even so, the usual good weather failed to materialise this year, and we made our way up in windy and damp conditions. I wore my mudclaws, the weight penalty and consequent slow climb ironing itself out with a quicker than usual descent. I failed to gain more than a couple of places, but did at least find some energy for the final climb back to the finish.

Capenhurst 5k

Race: Capenhurst 5k
Time/Position: 17:04 (26th from 229 [6th V40])
An extraordinarily strong field for this quick 5k this year. In 2010 I ran 5 seconds quicker than this, finished 12th overall and won the V40 prize. This year was a different story, as at least 30 runners stormed off for a painfully fast first mile. I was really suffering, shocked by the pace after a summer in the hills - as always - and struggled to keep up with both John's initially. However, I recovered a bit when the route heads for home after 3k and managed to pick the pace up and gain a few places. Not many though, as the event felt far more competitive even than the average border league fixture and I finished way down the field. A fast, flat 5k is perhaps the ultimate contrast with Sunday's 22 peak 14 hour odyssey? I'd only had 72 hours to recover, so with luck I'll be a bit less tired for the Welsh Champs 10k next week!

Tranter's Round variant

Peaks: Mullach nan Coirean (939m), Stob Ban (999m), Stob Coire a’Mhail (990m), Sgurr a’Mhaim (1099m), Sgurr an Iubhair (1001m), Am Bodach (1032m), Stob Coire a Chairn (981m), An Garbhanach (975m), An Gearanach (982m), Na Gruagaichean (1056m), Binnein Mor (1130m), Sgurr Eilde Mor (1010m), Binnein Beag (943m), Stob Ban (977m), Stob Choire Claurigh (1177m), Stob a’Choire Leith (1105m), Stob Coire Cath na Sine (1079m), Caisteal (1106m), Stob Coire an Laoigh (1116m), Stob Coire Easain (1080m), Sgurr Choinnich Mor (1094m)
Area: Mamores/Grey Corries, Lochaber
Perhaps a bit more honest to call this 'Tranter's Lite', as we missed the crucial final section up Ben Nevis. I've held a vague plan to do a version of Tranter's for some time: as big rounds go, it's quite short and achievable. Peter was keen to go for the full job, and we set this weekend as the only possible mutually suitable date. As such, I never really thought it would come off, given the usual August weather in the area. However, remarkably, my weather luck (which has held all year) continued yet again, and we headed up to Glen Nevis on Saturday afternoon and slept in the car boot for a couple of hours before waking at 4am. A bad start caused by sloppy headtorch navigation and a desire for directness saw us crashing through very steep conifer forests on the side of the glen leading up from Polldubh - but we still reached the summit of the Mullach in 70 minutes. Superb views as the sun began to peek through the clouds above Ben Alder to the east. Wonderful low sunshine lit the ridge as we ran towards Stob Ban and my first ever repeated Munro (I'd nipped up during an astonishingly unproductive and lazy teenage week with Steve back in 1989!). It's a nice peak, rocky and distinctive. Great running down to Lochain Coire nam Miseach before a steep rise gains the Devil's Ridge. This is an annoying but superb appendage to the main Mamore traverse, and had to be done, so we dumped sacks before enjoying the excellent narrow ridge with good scrambling over a subsidiary summit to the fine peak of Sgurr a'Mhaim. It was all fantastically enjoyable, still only 6.30am with the sunlit ridge giving perfect exposed running, and the entire Mamore ridge completely to ourselves. After a snack, we plodded over Iubhair and up Am Bodach before heading out along another narrow rocky appendage - with steeper initial scrambling - over a superb ridge to An Gearanach. A tiring addition to the main ridge, but these two diversions provide the best views of the day. We were still feeling good at this point, but the weather worsened, with clag drifting over the fine peak of Na Gruigachean during our ascent. This was a shame, as the network of ridges continues excellent over to the parent peak of Binnein Mor, and it looked a bit threatening for a while. Compass work was necessary, which slowed us down a bit. Whilst eating on the small summit of Binnein, however, a small tear in the cloud gave us hope and we ran down the steep east ridge before contouring round towards Sgurr Eilde Beag. The three peaks at the end of the Mamores present an unavoidable conundrum on this round: there is just no easy way of combining them. Sgurr Eilde Mor, in particular, is an outlier separated from the rest of the range. Our solution, to contour round the ridge then drop down to Coire an Lochain, was a good one: but still involved a long climb up shifting scree to gain the summit. Great hill, though, and the sun came out for wonderful wild views over to Ben Alder east. Another massive descent to the valley and we picked up the good path over to Binnean Beag, which looks innocuous from afar, barely worthy of Munro status, but didn't feel innocuous during the climb. This was my lowest ebb all day, but two pork pies perked me up on the summit: from where Stob Ban looks an appallingly distant prospect on the other side of the Water of Nevis. So, all the Mamores were done by lunchtime, ten Munros in total. Now for the Grey Corries! A very steep descent down the northern slopes of Beag, draining and stressful, led to a predictable bog trot along the base of this broad glen to gain the river at the Nevis/Abhainn Rath watershed. A wild and remote location: superb in this weather. We were then faced with a monstrous haul up the side wall of Coire Rath, contouring past numerous red deer to gain the broad col below Stob Ban. This was the crux of the whole outing and it was with some relief that we gained the remote summit of Stob Ban (a long way from the nearest road and a very long way from our car in Glen Nevis). My Innov8s were now almost destroyed, and more splits opened up on the steep scree down to a small lake before ploughing up the south ridge to Stob Coire Claurigh. Peter now began to suffer a bit, after being ahead for most of the Mamores. I was surprised to feel great, however: the path feeling deeply luxurious after the trackless nightmare up Stob Ban. At the top, the ridge along the Grey Corries looked mouthwatering and I couldn't wait to get started, running again over several tops and subsidiary peaks. All of this was wonderful: a remote, magnificent switchback ridge that stays high throughout. I enjoyed every minute and still felt good for the much steeper trudge up the fine peak of Sgurr Choinnich Mor: which feels separate to the rest of the Grey Corries but is a beautiful peak. From here we contoured round to the climb up the Aonachs but decided to bail out at this point for the very long and horrendously midgy run through Glen Nevis, past the Steall waterfall, back to Polldubh. Around 17,000ft of climbing, 34 miles, 22 peaks with 14 munros, so still a big day out in the hills. I was struck again by my weather luck this year: crystal clear, stunning views from a galaxy of peaks across Scotland, the Italian Alps, the Maritime Alps and beyond. After fish and chips in Fort William, we drove home through the night via two short naps in Hamilton and Tebay - rather tiring.

Caire de Cougourde

Peaks: Caire de Cougourde (2921m/9583ft)
Area: Maritime Alps, France
Routes: SE Ridge/Voie Normale (uI+)
Alongside Maledie, this was another obvious gap in my Mercantour CV and another very striking rock peak. Indeed, it is such a compelling objective from the Cougourde hut that I felt obliged to do it before breakfast, even though the original intention had just been to rest after yesterday's 'vertical kilometre' run. A peaceful night saw all the mist melt away to leave a starlit early morning. I managed to sneak away from the hut without waking the children but then had real difficulty following the path to Lac des Sagnes. I've done this before, when going up Cime de l'Agnel, but it is rather tenuous in the dark with no headtorch! I picked my way from cairn to cairn, then the light improved as I reached the crucial turn-off towards the Combe du Cougourde. This goes very steeply east, rapidly gaining height below the stunning west face (indeed, as with Maledie, it was a shame to just be soloing the normal route rather than enjoying the obviously superb rock climbing it had to offer). The path is, by Mercantour standards, easy to follow and well cairned. It leads quite quickly to a 20m slabby wall taken on good holds which gives access to the upper cwm. This heads up towards Cime des Gaisses initially before veering north to take a broad spur towards a good traverse path below the hidden east face. The cwm up here is just a deep bowl of shattered scree, surrounded by vertical rock, and is quite an intimidating place alone at 6.15am. That said, after almost 20 years exploring the Maritime Alps on my own, these situations are quite familiar: I can count on one hand the other people I've seen on the 30+ peaks I've climbed in the area. Rough scree, followed by 30m of more solid slabby scrambling, then led up to the Baisse du Cougourde, the onward route still looking utterly unfeasible at this point. It seems so unlikely that a simple voie normale exists, but, sure enough, on emerging at the Baisse all is revealed as a simple broad ridge line leads up to the summit. Before starting up the ridge, I spent a few minutes gaping at the awesome view as the sun rose over the shoulder of Gelas. Again, a cloud inversion on the Italian side meant superb views of the nearby peaks. These got better as I ascended the simple slopes to the right of the SE ridge. This gradually became steeper near the summit as the route snaked left and became more exposed with a few easy rocky steps. The views from the small top were predictably electrifying. The ridge from here, Peak 1 of the Cougourde (the high point), over to Peak 4, looked superb but sadly unfeasible solo. The descent via the same route was surprisingly simple and very quick, and I got to the hut before 8am with the breakfast coffee still warm! After a short rest in the sunshine, we all began the descent which was absolutely delightful in the morning sunshine. We all really enjoyed it, I think, and a second breakfast in the lovely woodland near the Pont Peirastreche prolonged our time in the valley before washing in the river, heading to see the wolves in Boreon, and driving to Nice airport later on.

Cime de la Palu: 'Vertical Kilometre'

Peaks: Cime de la Palu (2132m/6995ft)
Area: Maritime Alps, France
Route/Time: KmV 'Race'/53:31
This was a perfect opportunity to stretch my legs after the rigours of the last two days: a chance to run unencumbered in the gentle 2200m hills above St Martin in contrast to my more usual mountaineering trips up the higher peaks in these parts. After the luxury of a family room at the Gite in St Grat, we had one more trip from Boreon to the Cougourde hut, which necessitated a visit to St Martin Vesubie, my favourite Alpine town. I haven't been here for two years, and was delighted to find that - as luck would have it - the local council has developed a series of trail runs around the green hills that surround the town. As soon as I saw the 'Vertical Kilometre' outing, it became an unavoidable challenge and I changed into my running kit immediately. Kate and the children went to a cafe while I jogged up Rue Docteur Cagnoli to the start of the route. I'd never seen anything quite like it: an accurately measured and marked out route, with each 100m of ascent signposted, up to the 1000m finish just below the summit of Cime de la Palu - a 2200m peak that towers above St Martin. I set out at around 4.5mins per 100m pace, and managed to maintain this up to a more runnable section as I emerged from the treeline at the 700m mark. Breaking the hour seemed like an obvious target but I had three disadvantages. First, no caffeine. Second, some fatigue after the last two days. Third, midday heat. I treated it as valuable training, though, and really enjoyed the effort - which is obviously quite an intense session with an average gradient of 27% over 4.5km or so. The 1000m mark arrives abruptly, sadly just below the true summit of Palu, and I stopped my watch comfortably below the hour on 53:31. Above this, gentle zigzags lead to a broad col below Tete du Marre, the next peak on the ridge, and I jogged over to the summit to enjoy excellent views up the Cougourde valley, our next destination. The eponymous peak is a magnificent pyramid of rock from this point and I began to think that it would make a nice trip from the hut if I could find the time. The Prefouns and Agnel peaks (2008) also impressed, as did the area I'd visited in 2010 around Lac d'Allos further north. The run back down to St Martin, in warm sunshine, was a delight. More by accident than design, I took a different route down from ? which extended the fun, and we had a picnic of local ham sandwiches and myrtille tart under the trees before driving to the Vacherie du Boreon for the walk-in to the Cougourde Hut. This walk was far more popular with the family than the more demanding outing to the Nice hut. I had deliberately chosen the Cougourde hut because of the scenic contrast: whereas the Nice hut is surrounded by dramatic and stark peaks, the Cougourde hut is situated in a truly beautiful Alpine meadow with a pastoral feel - small copses, boulders and babbling streams - with the amazing Caires du Cougourde towering above. One of my favourite spots in the range, and although I've had a meal here before, I'd never stayed. We passed a relaxing and enjoyable evening in the hut, watching the mist gradually envelop the Cougourde and other peaks.

Cime de la Maledie

Peaks: Cime de la Maledie (3059m/10036ft)
Area: Maritime Alps, Provence
Route: NW Face/Voie Normale (PD/uI+)
This magnificent peak is perhaps the most striking on the French side of the Maritime Alps and has been on my target list for many years. It was the obvious choice for a short and intense pre-breakfast outing from the Refuge du Nice. I left Kate and the children sleeping and crept out of the hut in the half-light at 5.40am: no need for 3am starts in the Maritime Alps, particularly this late in the summer. The route round the lake was easy to follow, well-cairned, as is the continuation up to Lac Long - presumably because it is also taken by the normal route up Gelas from the hut. This all helped, as it stayed dark for longer than I'd expected, and I was rewarded by a stunning red sky over Chamineye and Capelet. I was also very struck by the view back to yesterday's peak, Cime Nire, which appears as a spectacular leaning spire of rock from the entry to the wide valley containing Lac Long. Maledie towers above at this point, and the traverse remains relatively easy to follow up to the obvious problematic slabby rock band which guards entry to the upper cwms below the summit. It all added to the intrigue and enjoyment: steep slopes lead up to an intimidating side cwm, followed by a switchback to the east - tricky route-finding - which leads below a steep rock spur to slip into the little valley below the crucial Pas de Maledie (guarded from below by the rock-band). This little cwm was less intimidating than the one I'd left, but very atmospheric, and I rapidly gained the obvious steep couloir leading to the Pas. This gave some fine scrambling, around II, and was relatively solid. At the top of the Pas, I passed into Italy and gained a broad shelf of scree and stunning views over a cloud inversion in the Italian valleys. Monte Viso towered above the cloud, which the low sun had coloured orange, and vague distant glimpses of Gran Paradiso and Monte Rosa were satisfying, as I've climbed both. I was expecting a long traverse below the north face of Maledie - but actually the crucial summit couloir is reached after a couple of hundred metres. An arete, below a big drop, marks the line - the only feasible route of ascent. After a short rocky wall above the remains of a snowfield (which is much bigger earlier in the season), very loose scree and moraine dust leads to another short wall (II). Above lies more insecure scree and the spectacular small summit (90m from hut). This gave me a few of the more memorable minutes of my many visits to the peaks of the Mercantour: truly stunning views over the cloud inversion to the east. Clapier surprisingly impressive, as were all the other mountains I've previously climbed in this small but superb area: Capelet, Gelas, Ponset, Bego et al. I reckon I've climbed more than 30 Maritime Alps peaks since our ascent of Gelas in 1994. The descent of the couloir was distinctly unpleasant, down loose and steep scree, but it went OK - as did the scrambling down from the Pas. A brief breakfast of a tiny cereal bar in the sunshine above Lac Long, and I jogged back to meet the family by Lac de la Fous by 8.30am. A short but intense outing! All the family enjoyed the walk-down considerably more than the walk-up, and we enjoyed a superb lunch of wild trout and mountain herbs at the Gite in St Grat later. Cloud rolled in during the afternoon, and an atmospheric storm enlivened the evening meal.

Cime Nire

Peaks: Cime Nire (2666m/8747ft)
Area: Maritime Alps, Provence
Routes: East Ridge (uI+), NW Gully (uII)
After a week in the Esterel sunshine, we headed up to my old stomping ground of the Maritime Alps for a brief family mountain trip bolted on to the end of our holiday. After taking the children for a night at the Lac d'Allos hut two years ago (their first visit to an Alpine hut) my plans this time were a little more ambitious. First item on the agenda was the walk-in to the Refuge du Nice. The Gordolasque valley is an area I know well, so I was relieved to be able to park at midday on a busy August Saturday. The walk-in went reasonably well. There were a few complaints from the offspring, particularly during the steep zig-zags below the Mur des Italians. The view of the waterfall was scant consolation! The cloudbase gradually lowered during the walk and the atmosphere was quite foreboding as we entered the plain of La Barme, surrounded by spectacular peaks - many of which I have climbed in the past, like Ponset, Clapier, Capelet and Collomb. A short rise gained Lac de Fous and views of the hut. This was the morale boost the team needed, and they were rewarded with a hot chocolate in the hut. After a game of scrabble, it looked like the mist was lifting slightly, so I ran up to Lac Nire before dinner. From here, it is a fairly simple matter to traverse the boulder fields and plough up the slopes to an obvious scree gully, the only real way to access the Pas de Nire between the two peaks of Tete du Lac Autier and Cime Nire. The cloud began to descend again as I reached the pass, so I made a snap decision to go for the lower - but more striking - peak of Cime Nire. This was short but excellent. A fine narrow ridge gave a bit of scrambling to an obvious forepeak, after which grass slopes led down to a pronounced col. The final north ridge looks very steep from a distance, but on closer inspection only the first and last 20 metres give any real scrambling. A few short rock walls, on good but lichen covered rock (I assume this peak is very rarely ascended), led to easier slopes before a steep final wall gave more easy rock climbing to a small summit (45m from hut). The cloud base was only just above the cairn, limiting the views but increasing the atmosphere. After a cautious descent, I decided to give Tete du Lac Autier a miss, mindful of conserving some energy for tomorrow morning. As a result, I opted to take the steeper NW gully leading directly down from the col to the lake as a more direct route back to the hut after analysing the feasibility of the line from a high vantage point. This was very loose in places - indeed the one steep section that looked worrying from above was actually the most solid 10m section of the gully. But it had the virtue of directness and I soon picked up the more solid boulder field above Lac Nire before gaining the GR52 and good quick running back to the hut, where we all enjoyed a superb four course dinner with local lamb and cheese from the vacherie in the valley.