Carneddau run

Peaks: Foel Grach
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
The cloudbase was well below Allt Fawr and Foel Lus as we drove along the A55: a grim prospect indeed, although the forecast implied the possibility of a cloud inversion above 800m. So there was some optimism despite the clag as Peter and I ran along the contouring path above Aber falls to gain Cwm Afon Goch. Steady drizzle and thick clag - but this is always a nice place to be. It's been a few years since I last did the 1000m peaks race but I think I picked the right gully to gain the plateau between Yr Aryg and Bera Mawr - undoubtedly the fastest way to Llewellyn. This is a great navigation test, taking a southerly bearing until you hit Llwybr yr Aryg, the ancient path that cuts across the northern Carneddau. Not the slightest sign of a clearance, we were soaked to the skin as we plodded across the featureless hill. Satisfying to get it right, though, and a classic test of hillcraft, particularly as the track bifurcates at various points. Once on the main path, we made good progress although the weather remained awful and we were glad to reach the haven of the refuge on Foel Grach. Wet and with no sign of a clearance, we opted to shorten the circuit and pelted west down very runnable slopes to gain the mini-gorges at the top of Cwm Caseg, one of the wildest spots in North Wales. We then contoured round to gain the path towards Bethesda above Afon Wen. From here, we contoured high up to gain the little col below Moel Faban - finally out of the clag and drizzle. The ancient paths circling Moel Wnion give a superb run-in back to Aber: dried out in the Albion. Not as good, or as long, as the similar 20m circuit I did in August, but still a good way to end the year.

Cylch Llangollen Round variant

Peaks: Moel y Faen, Moel y Gamelin, Moel Morfydd, Moel Fferna, Vivod Mountain
Area: Berwyn/Llangollen
A shorter version of the full round: perhaps best described as the Glyndyfrdwy loop. Last September's solo completion ranks as one of the best outings of the year: this wasn't as far, and wasn't as enjoyable (I felt sluggish and heavy all day) but it did contain all the best mountain sections and at least as much climbing as the full route. Jez and I set off from the top of the Horseshoe Pass in misty conditions, with an unfortunate headwind for the climbs over Gamelin and Morfydd. I struggled almost immediately, but then perked up for the flatter sections further west as the route loops over the ridge and takes in some superb terrain down to Carrog. The climb up Moel Fferna is very long, but is gentle throughout and we both enjoyed it. Claggy and cold on the summit, but it's becoming an increasingly familiar place despite its obscurity and relative remoteness (four times this year - compared to once or twice in the previous 30!). As we headed east, we dropped below the cloud for a while and some sunshine dappled the Vale below. This section, along the North Berwyn Way, is excellent - the third time this year we have run along it. Then it was back up into the cloud over Vivod, powered by Christmas cake, and then the long descent down to Llangollen. I refuelled with a drink, then we headed up the canal to take the tracks and paths that head east of the Abbey to eventually join the road to Pentredwr. The climax, up the Old Horseshoe Pass, is tough - rendering this version, although much shorter (21 miles?), almost as hard as the full 33 mile Round. I've cycled this in the past - it is a relentlessly steep end to a long run.

Round the Walls race

Race: Round the Walls Chester (4.5m)
Time/Position: 27.07 (12th from 500)
The usual Boxing Day family outing, always enjoyable - especially if conditions allow for the full race. Work continues on the Northgate bridge, but apart from that a full circuit has been possible for the past few years. I was a minute down on last year's time, when I finished 8th, and even slower than my quicker days a few years ago, but given recent form it wasn't too bad. The Roodee was a bit slippy, but the racing along the walls was as exciting as ever - Pete and myself had a grand battle, neck and neck below the clock until I pulled away a bit on the lap round the edge of the Roodee. Kate came in a little later and we then replaced all the calories.

Carneddau run

Peaks: Tal y Fan
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
A week on, and another attempt to maximise the difficulty of a small peak! This time, it was Tal y Fan, a hill I have been up dozens of times from every conceivable starting point - except one. So today I left the coast at Aber, another sea level start, and plotted a course for the top: quite some distance away. I felt tired throughout, and the initial climb up the old Foel Fras race route is never fun in these circumstances. It was a case of grinding it out, as heavy showers swept in from the west. Some fine sunbursts from the track, and it cleared briefly as I crested Bwlch y Ddaefaen. Then a very heavy shower, snowing higher up on Foel Fras, for a long and wet run down the road taken by the Pen fell race. Then, another change: sunshine briefly for the climb up to the ridge - which was cold and blustery (sleet) but entertaining with its rocky dips and hollows. I descended to the quarry and had intended to go all the way down to Sychnant, but changed my mind - motivated by cold hands and feet - and instead ran west along the maze of ancient tracks that spread across the northern slopes. These rarely go where you want them to (they presumably link sheepfolds and shelters together?) and it was therefore a long slog west back to Bwlch y Ddaefaen and a long descent to Aber for lunch at yr Hen Felin. Later, a six miler from the Collie - another tiring Wednesday.

Mortimer's Forest trail race

Race: Mortimer's Forest trail race, Ludlow (9m/1500ft)
Time/Position: 1.13.11 (36th from 360)
There aren't many fell races in Wales and the Borders that I haven't done - but this is a long established event that I have somehow managed to miss in the past. It gave a very enjoyable end-of-year 'away day' with some unique features: hovering somewhere between trail and fell in tone. Shropshire races are always scenic and well-attended, and a big field left the school in Overton, south of Ludlow, on muddy tracks which led to the first major climb up Poison Bank. From the top, a long contouring section gives brilliant running around an open hillside with views over to Clee Hill. Then came the 'big dipper', three short and very steep hills that come in quick succession with no break between them. At the top of the final climb, drained of energy, comes the gradual climb back through the woods to the race highpoint. Vic and I ran together with me acting as 'pacer', and he caught me again for the final section which gives exciting running along twisting forest tracks to the abrupt finish above the school.

Conwy Valley-Carneddau run

Peaks: Pen Llithrig y Wrach
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
An exercise in making the most of a small hill. Or to put it another way: Pen Llithrig y Wrach the hard way! Early in the morning, I parked at the base of the Conwy Valley in Tal y Bont (10m above sea level), then after a mile-long warm-up started the vicious (in places) climb up to Cwm Eigiau. This contains two or three very steep hairpins interspersed with gentler sections, but gains height quickly. Above the road levels off and the terrain opens out into the glorious lower reaches of Cwm Eigiau: ahead a perfectly straight track leads to the old dam. We were last up here for the bothy trip in Easter 2017 - and there were three cars parked up this morning. Maybe closing the road would keep it quieter? Excellent running through the magnificent scenery of Cwm Eigiau. The peaks were clagged in, the head of the cwm a tad oppressive, although the cloudbase appeared to lifting very slightly. It's been quite a while since I last ran this way, although the Rab Mountain Marathon took in some of the same terrain. I took the contouring path on the eastern slopes, through some thick heather to gain the very steep and untracked climb up to Bwlch y Tri Marchog. This is a wet slog and gained a cold bwlch with the clag just above, allowing for vague views down to Ogwen. The climb up Pen Llithrig was claggy and chilly, and I didn't hang around at the summit, taking a bearing north-east to avoid the crags, before plunging east down steep scree and heather to gain Llyn Cowlyd - a wonderfully remote spot. From here, the descent to Dolgarrog is long but gloriously runnable and enjoyable. The Cowlyd path is boggy and leads eventually to the hideous pipeline, a grotesque intrusion. The track eventually leads to the top of the Pipe Dream fell race route, which gives a slippery and steep descent to Dolgarrog and Tal y Bont: three hours and an excellent, largely runnable circuit. Later, a 6m+ headtorch run from Llanarmon yn Ial. Tiring, but I told myself it was all good training for Brecon-Cardiff in February.

Ty Croes border league

Race: Ty Croes/Trac Mon Anglesey 5m (Border League race 3)
Time/Position: 30.56 (41st from 261)
A tiny glimmer of an improvement today, although still a massive three minutes down on the 27.58 I ran the last time the league visited this course. As a race track, the circuit is unusual and the surface as smooth as silk. I suspect the course was a tad longer today, measured at five miles, and it was blustery in places making the two climbs hard work and inevitably having an adverse affect on times. Beautiful views over a rough sea and across to Llyn, with the occasional sunburst. My 70th Border League fixture, I think. After the race, it was straight back to Henllys for luxurious steam bath recovery. And, early next morning, a wonderful recovery jog up to Aber Falls then the mini-circuit above the valley.

Cardington Cracker

Race: Cardington Cracker fell race (9m+/2600ft)
Time/Position: 1.37.04 (50th from 271)
Made the mistake of checking my previous times for this race before setting off. Bad move, because I ran 1.22 in 2011 and knew I wouldn't be able to get close - although I would never have predicted 15 minutes slower over a 9 mile course! It was very wet and muddy underfoot, which would account for a few minutes, but essentially this season's lack of speed really showed itself again. It's a great race, my favourite Shropshire outing, with two savagely steep climbs up the Lawley and Caer Caradoc, followed by the gradual ascent of Hope Bowdler hill and the brilliant run-in along a vague ridge back to the village. Myself and Vic ran it together, which was good. It never felt uncomfortable, just slow. The weather was dank and drizzly, so a quick recovery pint of Shropshire Lad in the fifteenth century Royal Oak was particularly welcome.

Tryfan climbing

Peak/Crag: Tryfan (East Face)
Routes: North Buttress (VD:led p.2,4), Terrace Wall Variant (VD:led p.2)
A cloud inversion looked like a possibility this morning. It is always worth gambling in these circumstances, and I know from past experience that the East Face of Tryfan is the most perfect place in these conditions, so Vic and I headed up from a drizzly and dank Ogwen at 9am. Thick mist as we trudged up towards the Heather Terrace where a slight lightening in the cloud gave us hope. Then, just as we got to the start of Grooved Arete, we popped through the cloud. Stunning views, some of the best I have experienced in over 30 years of Snowdonian activity. Teams were already on Grooved Arete, so we went for North Buttress, which was one of the first climbs I did: 1989 perhaps. The first pitch goes up a tricky groove, then I led the second, which gives very pleasant climbing up a delicate rib to a groove. It is all typical Tryfan climbing - easy and relaxed, all the time above a spectacular blanket of cloud. Sadly, the route then becomes broken and a long grassy section leads up to the Terrace Wall. It was windy here - quite cold too. So we settled for Terrace Wall Variant, which is quite hard to find. I have a vague feeling that I have done this before, and I think we struggled with the route-finding then too. It goes up a slabby crack to a ledge, then a steep wall. Vic led this pitch, then I led the traverse right in a fine position, to the Grove of Bollards (the spikes at the top of Belle Vue Bastion - a route I did a few years ago). Then a steeper little groove to the top. All this time, the cloud inversion had boiled away below, gradually dissipating from a thick bank of cloud enveloping the whole of Ogwen to tendrils of mist peeling away from Bwlch Caseg Fraith. We took the skirting path to the top of Tryfan for a sunny but cold and windy lunch. Then it was down the West Face for a long and circuitous route back in glorious late autumn sunshine: all the peaks crystal clear.

Upton border league

Race: Chester 'Spring' 5m (Border League race 2)
Time/Position: 31.14 (86th from 441)
The unwelcome milestones continue to fall. This was my slowest five mile race in 20 years of running, and my worst league position since around 2006. My flight from West Africa landed in Manchester at midnight, and I thought that if I woke in time I would do this - which takes the Spring 5 course on a route I know very well indeed. In fact, I calculate I have done it over 100 times as it was my regular lunchtime run when I worked at Kingsway. As a race, I have also done it many times but have never found it particularly quick, especially when it gets a bit muddy: but I didn't expect to be quite this slow, despite the circumstances and relaxed approach. No speedwork all year, the flight, and the continuing after effects of the 50 miler are my only excuses: feeble, given that everybody else had raced yesterday and Friday!

Gambia run

Not an obvious place to run, but I actually saw somebody jogging along the road towards the airport as the sun came up first thing this morning. After breakfast, I took a bush taxi through Yundum to Abuko and then spent a very pleasant few hours birding - covering the entire reserve. I then decided to jog back along the main road, past multiple little shops and all the hustle and bustle of West African life. Next day, it was into Senegal: through Kafountine and down the Casamance river to the very remote animist island of Kailo.

Round Rotherham race

Race: Rowbothom's Round Rotherham Ultra Marathon (50m+/81k)
Time/Position: 9.35 (39th from 160)
A properly long ultra was the only thing missing from my 'running CV', compiled over 500 races and 20 years, so it was good to make my debut here - even if the setting was not a very glamorous one. In fact, I actually ran a double marathon of 53 miles because I made a huge route finding error half way round. This was upsetting, but apart from the error I really enjoyed the race - and my rudeness about the setting was entirely misplaced. In reality, it is a massively varied route, continually interesting, a real treat for a geographer - sometimes very scenic, sometimes urban and gritty, with everything in between. After a drive across the Pennines, a meal outside Sheffield and a night sleeping in the car, we set off in the dark at 7am from the lake in Wath upon Dearne. My plan was just to plod along for 30 miles and then see what I could do. It worked reasonably well, although my legs never felt great, possibly still affected by the marathon 13 days ago. It gradually got lighter as we headed to Elsecar, a gentle introduction down tracks, then Thorpe Hesley as the sun rose above the horizon. This led to a magnificent sunrise at the precise moment we ran along what was probably the most scenic section of the race, a vague ridge above the village of Scholes: stunning autumnal views with the low sun, light mist and stone houses of the village. A climb to Keppel's column and then the first checkpoint. After crossing the M1 the route becomes more urban at 18k past Meadowhall and Tinsley: canal side running in places. After the second CP, we passed Treeton Dyke lake past more industry into the interesting Rother Valley country park at 30k. I was feeling pretty good across the fields leading to Harthill and the halfway checkpoint. Another good feed (I was eating well!) at another excellent checkpoint, and then a long rural section through endless fields - the only time I felt a bit hot all day (conditions were generally ideal, fairly cool with sunny intervals). After the airfield at Netherthorpe I began to hit my first bad patch at the marathon distance (42k). A gel helped, but I then made my big error at the Lindrick golf course. I lost the route, and asked a greenkeeper where the tunnel under the A57 was (this was key to the route). He sent me way off to the left, and I made the map 'fit' the landscape, as often happens, running well over a mile off course. I finally realised that it must be the wrong way and, with no local knowledge, was forced to take the demoralising decision to retrace my steps, asking a golfer if there was another tunnel. I tried running down the A57, dangerous to the point of impossibility, so had to take evasive action which cost even more time - at least 30 minutes and 3 miles extra. This was infuriating but did give me an adrenalin boost which continued after the next CP at Woodsetts. The rest of the route is mainly scenic, fields up to Langold Lake, then woods through Firbeck. This, around the 34 mile mark, was the furthest I had ever run before, so it wasn't too surprising that I began to hobble and walk in places. The final section was delightful at times, though, past scenic Roche Abbey in glorious sunshine, then Maltby and another feed, and then more rural scenery around Hooton Roberts before an urban finish through Swinton and back to the start in Manvers. I was slow on the last section, but not disastrously slow. All in all, a great event, very well organised with a real local Yorkshire feel and a sense of tradition - it's been going a long time. My error cost me a lot of time and places, I think I would have finished around 9 hours without it. But it only cost me one position in the Runfurther British ultra championships, which I completed with this race, my first ever 'long' ultra - I finished 7th male in the 2018 series, which was a satisfying way to mark the end of the season.

Tryfan

Peak: Tryfan
Area: Eryri
An early morning outing after dropping Kate off. It was a little too close to Saturday's 50 miler, but a perfect autumn day was forecast, so I just headed straight for the North Ridge. It is just over 30 years since I first did this - and I have no idea how many times I've been up Tryfan since then (well over 50). I picked my way up, sticking to the crest then taking the nice groove up the right-hand side of the North Tower. The summit was a delight: I had it to myself initially, and there was still some high cloud around, which gave some beautiful patterns of sunshine and shadow over Y Garn and Elidir Fawr. My usual descent: down North Gully and Little Gully, always fun, and then a leisurely walk back to Ogwen in glorious conditions as the cloud melted away completely. Beautiful autumnal scenes.

New Brighton 5m

Race: New Brighton 5m (Border League race 1)
Time/Position: 29.44 (66th from 411)
My worst finishing position in 12 years: close to 80 league races. It was only two years ago that I managed to finish in the top 20 for every fixture. Despite that spectacular decline, I was actually fairly pleased with the time, having not done any speed work all year - very hard to adjust from the plodding ultra pace I have trained myself for this year! I just aimed to get under 30 minutes as it was the only realistic target. I couldn't remember doing this exact course before, although I have done variants of it in BL and Wirral leagues. It goes from the little lake along the prom towards Leasowe, then back inland towards Harrison's Drive. A very slight headwind for the finish along the prom although conditions were generally ideal for fast times, with the course as flat as a pancake.

Chester Marathon

Race: Chester Marathon
Time/Position: 3.01.48 (252 from 3800)
After the humiliating experience of missing out on a qualifying time (for the first time in years) at London in April, I felt I had to squeeze one more marathon into 2018. The obvious problem is that I've concentrated on ultras, and therefore have distance in my legs but a complete absence of speed. The solution? To run at the same slow, plodding 7 minute mile pace throughout. It worked surprisingly well, particularly as I only managed three longish road runs in preparation. A night in my own bed, still asleep at 7am, was a great help, as was the ten minute drive to the start. Conditions were absolutely perfect, in contrast to London: I was shivering in 2C at the start and the day was clear with light winds. It is a great route, similar to the old half marathon route (which I did many times) in places as it heads out towards Pulford. But it also takes in much of the city centre, in stark contrast to the old marathon route which I ran in 2010 (the first ever Chester marathon and my V40 debut!). Under the Eastgate clock, out through Handbridge and Eccleston along roads I know very well and often train on, then over the border to Rossett and along the lanes towards Holt and Farndon. There are a few sharp hills on the return leg, a bit of a struggle for a while, but I took in more gels than is usual for me and - after going through half bang on 1.30 - didn't lose too much ground on the return, which takes the lanes east of the Dee through Aldford to re-enter Chester around Huntingdon to finish back at the Racecourse after taking in the banks of the Dee and our regular family picnic spot. So, no great shakes (8 mins down on PB) but job done in the sense that a London qualifying time was regained, and it was nice to wear the Welsh vest for the first time in six years (as a cross-border marathon, the British Masters Championships were incorporated into this race).

Cylch Llangollen Round

Peaks: Eglwyseg Mountain, Cyrn y Brain, Moel y Faen, Moel y Gamelin, Moel Morfydd, Moel Fferna, Vivod Mountain, Y Foel (33m/53k/5300ft)
Area: Berwyn/Eglwyseg
This is one of the best outings in North-East Wales. It is occasionally organised as a challenge walk but would work well as a long race hovering somewhere between short ultra and very long fell race - similar to the Haworth Hobble or Long Tour of Bradwell. It would have been more sensible to get a final long road run in today, with the Chester marathon imminent, but the weather was absolutely perfect - a wonderful late summer day - so I couldn't resist a solo outing over something I've wanted to do for a while. I did half of it with Peter and Steve on Christmas Eve - but that first half from Pontcysyllte to the Ponderosa is the easy bit. A gentle run up through Trevor woods to gain the Panorama and superb early morning views of the crags, Dinas Bran and the vale. From here, it gains the escarpment above Trevor Quarry with the usual expansive views in crystal clear air. Great running along the edge of the crags; there is a more direct route here, which I missed, thereby adding a little more to the day's total! Over the top of World's End, then up the Offa's Dyke path towards Cyrn y Brain. Fantastic views to Snowdonia from the top, unusual clarity. A pepsi and a bakewell tart at the Ponderosa, hardly a balanced brunch, but some fortification for the long but always fun haul over the very familiar hills of Moel y Faen, Gamelin and Morfydd. From here, the Round diverges from the Gamelin race route to head north of Bwlch y Groes towards Bryneglwys (a small navigation error lost me time here), before curving round the northern edge of the hills to Bwlch Coch. From here, a small path through woodland eventually gains wonderful views of the Dee Valley with Carrog nestling below - this section was new to me, amazingly. Another pit stop at the excellent Grouse pub, ham sandwich this time, and then it was over the river to Llidiart y Parc and the very long haul up Moel Fferna from the north. I remember trying to do this many years ago and finding the paths blocked in several places. Now, it is all clear. The conifer forests gave some shade, although it never got uncomfortably hot, just glorious running conditions. It is at least 5k uphill to Fferna, the day's highpoint - which always gives a nice sense of space and remoteness - I have never seen anybody else on this hill. The route then joins the North Berwyn Way, which we have done twice already this year, so it was a familiar plod along the excellent tracks east above the Ceiriog Forest to Vivod Mountain. I was beginning to tire by now, and dehydrated despite a pint of water and a coke in the Grouse (I only carried a map and jacket all day). The final leg was tougher than expected: a tiny path through bracken below Y Foel (taken by the Ceiriog Canter if memory serves), before a horribly long road section from Finger Farm above Glyn Ceiriog. Apart from the wonderful views of the Ceiriog Valley, this was dire: tiring and dehydrated. But it is at least direct, heading directly east with a couple of welcome off-road diversions before dropping steeply to Froncysyllte, and a finish over the aqueduct. Not the fastest of times, 6.5 hours of running, but given that I was alone and didn't want to empty the tank before the marathon, not too bad.

Wirral Multi-Terrain Series, Arrowe Park

Race: Wirral MT Series (Race 4: Arrowe Park)
Time/Position: 28.22 (44th from 197)
In this year of ultras, anything short and fast is a humiliating experience. Three years ago I came 9th at this race, but was 35 places down on that today, the fourth time I've done this enjoyable race around Arrowe Park on the edge of Birkenhead. It felt like a useful session in advance of the marathon.

D'Aguilar loop, Brisbane

Not really a run, as this was too good to hurry, and more to the point I was busy familiarising myself with an entirely unfamiliar avifauna. I was staying in Woolowin, my second night in Brisbane (after an earlier layover on the outbound leg), and took a combination of train and bus out towards 'The Gap'. From here, a jog uphill gains the edge of D'Aguilar national park. Obviously, this was a mouth-watering prospect, but I'm afraid it will have to wait until we are in a position to visit Australia properly! Instead, I contented myself with the Walkabout Creek visitor centre and a walk round the lovely Araucaria Track. This skirts the Enoggera reservoir for a while and takes a big loop through hoop pine and eucalyptus forest. Dozens of bird species - superb fairy wren, bell bird, brush turkey, comb crested jacana and many, many more. In addition, two huge lace monitors (goanna - giant 6ft lizards), water dragons and short-necked turtles.

Vanuatu run

My last day in the South Pacific, and a beautiful clear dawn. I'd already done a bit of walking to the Mele Cascades, round part of Lelepa Island and a few other delightful locations. Today, I jogged from my lodgings on the Erakor Lagoon past a huge Chinese building down towards the Bay of Erakor itself. The usual issues running in developing countries - uneven surfaces, discontinuous pavements, holes in the ground. I then took a circuitous route through villages back to the middle of Port Vila, where I had Tuluk and Laplap for breakfast, sitting on the seafront in warm sunshine.

Bukit Timah, Singapore

The mighty highpoint of Singapore, all 164 metres of it. As a layover outing, it's an ideal little leg stretcher (and an area that I missed when I was last in Singapore six years ago). After an early arrival at Changi, I entered the reserve early, around 8.30am in typical weather - bruised sky, humid, threat of rain. The rainforest is actually well preserved here, although the route up is typically Singaporean, manicured and immaculate. After walking up the steep steps to the summit (very jet lagged having not got much sleep on the flight from Heathrow) I jogged down and had a nap in one of the open shelters: very relaxing, listening to the soft tropical rain and the breeze through the ferns. Then it was down to begin the dining tour: roti prata for breakfast, then satay bee hoon for an early lunch.