King John's Castle

Race: King John's Castle fell race

Time/Position: 51.01 (4th from 46)

A route change this year marked Amanda's first year of organising it. This added a considerable amount of climbing to what was previously a fast and runnable course. I've only done it twice before, finishing second in 2015 and third in 2022, so this was very much on trend! The usual opening climb towards Moel Gyw, then the always enjoyable descent before contouring round the side of Moel y Plas before heading straight up the eastern slopes of that hill, completely pathless. A small group of three formed, and I descended reasonably well before struggling on the steep OD climb to the col below Moel Gyw. A decent descent and then it was just the flat-out road blast to the finish, with me around half a minute in front of 5th, but well behind 3rd.

Elidir Fawr

Peaks: Elidir Fawr

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

Another gourmet night at the hut, but I didn't really fancy climbing in the Pass with limited time this afternoon, so Steve and I set off for this short outing up Elidir from the front door of Pant y Fron. We adopted a loping stride/slow jog pace up to Twill Mawr (where a team were on the astonishing Quarryman). Then we took the cableway slab/incline thing all the way to the top of Australia. This is steep and leads to slate steps, really atmospheric, a unique way of gaining lots of height. I'd done it before, but this felt fairly quick. Then we joined the Pedol Peris route up the grass, and up to Elidir Fach before taking the ridge (which I rarely do) to the true summit, where I waited for Steve in cold and windy conditions, the cloud base just flirting with the top. Always one of my favourite views. We then descended direct to the hut, superbly satisfying, down one of Snowdonia's most notorious slogs (a crucial part of the 3000s as well as the Elidir race). I don't think I have ever descended this before, and it is surprisingly comfortable: 28 minutes from summit back to the hut at a very gentle jog.

Swakopmund running

After arrival in Namibia almost a week ago, we walked to the end of the little ridge above Sasa Safari Lodge in a wonderful location outside Outjo. After three days in Etosha (including a 5k run round the Okakuejo camp) we made our way down to the Atlantic Coast where the temperatures were 20C+ cooler than the interior! So I took advantage today with an 11k run through the unusual (to say the least) town of Swakopmund, returning along the coast, struck by the extreme contrast between its manicured neatness and the nearby Skeleton Coast.

Carneddau from Gerlan

Peaks: Yr Elen, Carnedd Llewellyn

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

The forecast this morning was grim, so I was planning a short outing above Aber. But driving into Conwy it seemed far better, windy and cool with cloud around the tops, but dry. So I carried on and parked at Gerlan where I had a vague plan to go up Yr Elen from Bethesda (up the west ridge rather than down it). Up the familar lanes to the boggy track up into Cwm Llafar, and then across the bog towards the end of the Elen ridge at Foel Ganol. This does become very steep in places, particularly towards the top, but it emerges right on the summit (less than an hour from Gerlan). Windy and cold, with cloud playing around the tops, but I felt reasonably good and it seemed rude not to continue to Llewellyn, so I did. Nicely down the ridge and then a direct line to the summit in 10 minutes or so. Light mist on the top, which I had to myself again. Then down the normal Carneddau motorway towards the Black Ladders before breaking off for the pathless descent into the top of Cwm Llafar. This is a superb place, and I emerged right below Ysgolion Duon/Black Ladders, looking up to the two winter gully climbs I have done here (Central and Eastern) with a slight shudder (we did Central Gully in dreadful conditions in January 2010). Ahead, Llech Ddu and its spur. It must be one of the best locations in Eryri, and it would be nice to camp here some time. The run down to Gerlan was into a headwind, but quite enjoyable at a sustainable jog. Back to the bunkhouse around 1.55 after starting, which didn't seem too bad for 14k/1000m or so, given how boggy it is in places.

Rhydycroesau fell race

Race: Rhydycroesau fell race (5.5m/800ft)

Time/Position: 38.11 (6th from 37)

Surprisingly perhaps, I have stuck to the ethos of the 'fallow year', this being my first race since the start of July. As such, I was quite pleased to feel reasonably good (although completely lacking any speed) for this runnable event, more of a trail race than a fell race. I did the previous incarnation of the Rhydycroesau race many years ago - from memory it was similar in style but went up the opposite side of the valley. This new version leaves the delightful village show and heads up little lanes to a track passing the England-Wales border stone. Above this is the highpoint of the race above the Pen y Gwely reservoir. Then after a little loop it rejoins the ascent for a fast descent back to the show. K and E had joined me, so we walked to Cefn Canol for a warm down.

Foel Lwyd

Peaks: Foel Lwyd

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

Since my embarrassingly recent 'discovery' of Nant y Coed above Llanfairfechan I have resolved to make up for years of neglect by exploring the routes up onto the Carneddau from here. This was just a short outing but excellent, taking part of the coast path which we did last December. It more or less reversed that route, climbing up the hillside from Terrace Walk, rounding Carreg Fawr, and emerging at familiar territory, the Drum crossroads onto the Roman Road. This is easy angled up to Bwlch y Ddaefaen, after which I ploughed up the very steep climb to Foel Lwyd (which is always embedded in my memory as the last real climb of our 'Sea to Sea' in 2018). It was hard today too, and I had no wish to extend to Tal y Fan. The weather was better than forecast, a few light spots of drizzle. After the steep descent I cut down to the valley of the Afon Ddu which leads all the way down to Nant y Coed but is tortuous at the top, with no real human path through the gorse. Below, it gets better, and quite beautiful as it descends to the native woodland with the Menai Strait beyond.

Malpas 100m loop

It must be at least nine years since my last 'imperial century' ride, but as this was always intended to be one of my intermittent 'cycling years' I didn't want to end it without at least one 100 miler. That said, aware of that time gap since the last one and my general lack of cycling prowess, I knew it had to be flat. And there was another concept at play today - I wanted to do a form of time trial for the first 50k, and keep this going to a lesser extent until 50 miles had been done (and then just keep going at a slower pace). It all worked perfectly and ideal conditions helped too. I left home before 7am for the familiar start to Saltney Ferry and then on to the westbound cycle path to Shotton. Then all the way through Blacon to the end of the cycle path in Guilden Sutton before starting south through Waverton to Aldford and then Farndon, where I notched up the 50k in 1.55. I was desperate for a wee, so lost time doing that before heading up the surprisingly lengthy climb to Malpas, the far-end of the planned route. Back down the hill to Bangor, where (after notching up 50 miles in a little over 3 hours) I finally stopped properly for cheese sarnies and a drink at the co-op. Nice riding through to Holt, although I didn't stop at this traditional cycling crossroads, instead heading for home via Rossett and the climb to Shordley. Having no wish to fully extend the route into the hills, I then cycled into Westminster Park for a pastry, and back onto the cycle path from Sealand Road. Another loop, all the way round to Blacon and then Saltney Ferry before finally notching up the imperial century in 6.30 with some extra bits along familiar home roads.

Tremadog climbing

Routes: Scratch (VS 4b.4c:sec), Great Western/The Quakermen/Peutery combination (HVS 5a, 4a:sec)

Crag: Craig Pant Ifan, Tremadog

When it comes to climbing, I am not so much rusty as entirely corroded, having done hardly any since Covid. So I was inevitably a passenger today, although it was still an enjoyable outing with Peter and Vic. We started off with the standard VS of Scratch, nicely delicate on the first pitch (which I have led before), then a contrastingly steep and awkward crack, which i followed Peter up. After abbing down for lunch, we did a combination of three routes further left. I may well have done this combo before too: I've certainly done Great Western before. I followed Vic up this - a muddy groove leads to twin cracks. I found these very awkward indeed, particularly as it was a bit damp. Then an easing before another hard and steep corner leads to a stance on Poor Man's Peuterey, which I have done at least twice. It was quite breezy for the wonderful step right on to the arete, aided by huge holds, and then the delightful easy slab to the top. Felt weak and unconfident throughout, inevitable really, and there was no chance of me leading anything. But it was a nice day, and we finished with a pint at the excellent Pengwern in Ffestiniog.

Conwy-Chester+ ride

An attempt to link the region's best pubs, going from Conwy to Chester via an indirect 'interior' route (although I didn't actually go in any of them!). Another time, perhaps, for the wet version. Joining Kate on her commute, I set off from Bodlondeb at 8.30am, going across the river and then up through Junction to Mochre and Colwyn Bay via Pabo Lane. Then the delightful riding along the seafront with a light tailwind all the way to Rhyl. The weather was ideal, less hot than of late, but dry with light south-westerlies. I went through the middle of Rhyl for the first time in years, and then through Rhuddlan to a break for a pie at St Asaph Greggs! If the bike could talk, it would no doubt remark on the fairly extreme contrast between the Tourmalet, Lers, Aspin etc, less than a fortnight ago, and certain parts of today's route. Then it was Lower Denbigh Road up the 'S Bends' (again for the first time in decades, it used to be my school bus journey). From Bodfari, I took the peaceful lanes all the way to Llanbedr DC passing the Golden Lion in Llangynhafal (a bit of a headwind throughout). Then comes the route's main climb up the hairpins to the Clwyd Gate, like a miniature Pyrenean col, although ruined by roadworks today. From the top, it is easy down to the side road to Llanarmon yn Ial, and then undulating down the lovely lanes (via the Rose and Crown) to Treuddyn. Then came the fast descent and little climb to Penyffordd. I stopped off at home for a brief refuel and then took Lache Lane into Handbridge. At the Old Dee Bridge (close to the Tap), I turned south for Eccleston into a mild headwind. Down to Pulford and then over the border to Lavister and home: 110k, just under 1000m ascent, just over four hours, very varied.

Tryfan

Peaks: Tryfan

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

Third time lucky for EE on Tryfan, and we chose a very nice morning albeit a little too hot and humid at times. We took the steep climb into Cwm Tryfan, then walked up to join the side path which leads up to Bwlch Tryfan. From here, I think she enjoyed the occasional little scrambly steps which lead up to the tiny ridge below the summit. It is never quite the same route twice. A fairly crowded summit, which displeased her, but we had a nice break before descending via the direct scree path to Llyn Bochlwyd and then curving round towards Milestone Buttress. A helicopter was ferrying rocks presumably to improve the path here, which has always been muddy and is now becoming increasingly wide and eroded.

Plo del Naou

Peaks: Plo del Naou (1754m)

Area: Aspin, Pyrenees

The strange name of this summit is presumably a prime example of the local dialect. This was just a short 8k jog from the Col d'Aspin but a wonderful way to finish the trip. There seemed the prospect of getting above the mist (the col was enveloped as I had my coffee) a classic Pyrenees cloud inversion, but I couldn't have hoped for a more perfect set of circumstances. I took a jogging approach and was up in less than 30 minutes. A broad ridge leads to a grassy and delightful summit ridge and I could see telltale signs of the sun trying to break through the mist. Just below the top, I broke through. A stunning bank of cloud over the Aure valley with the high peaks of the Bearn and the Spanish frontier crystal clear above: quite incredible. I have been lucky enough to experience cloud inversions quite a few times, and can still remember the thrill when we broke through the mist on our first visit to the Pyrenees in 1993, but it is always wonderful and memorable. Ahead, the Montfaucon was impressive, with a picturesque flock of sheep with their clanging bells in the foreground. I descended towards the Horquette and then picked up a contouring path to complete a little loop and rejoin the ascent above the col. Then came the drive home, in one continuous and lengthy journey (two short naps!). Including the Auvergne, the French trip encompassed 20 different summits, six of which were Pyrenean 3000ers done in the last week. It also encompassed seven (or 6.5) major Tour cols (Aspin, Tourmalet, Port, Lers, Azet, Ancizan) and four minor ones earlier in the trip. More notably, between 11,000 and 12,000 metres of elevation gain (on foot and bike) since last Wednesday, perhaps 38,000ft.

Horquettes d'Ancizan ride

I really was tiring by now, and had sealed the bike away in the van. But after a magnificent lunch and coffee I began to think I might have one more col in me. Imprudent, perhaps, but at least I sensibly chose the easiest option - the Horquettes d'Ancizan from the Payolle side, which I felt would be the kind of tranquil and relatively gentle climb I could handle in my compromised state. The Horquettes essentially runs parallel to the Aspin and is a more recent addition to the Tour but I had loved my visits to the meadows of Payolle and my night on the Col d'Aspin so thought a revisit would make a great coda to the trip. So I drove over and started up through the meadows of Payolle. As it was mid-afternoon, it was now very hot and the sweat poured off me as the road kicked up through beautiful woodland. Above the woods, the sun beat down and I had to stop briefly - even on relatively gentle slopes. Above, a hairpin looked steep. As it happened, it got easier above the hairpin and I had something of a second wind. Then came a short but welcome descent to the upper pastures with fabulous views up to the Pic de Montfaucon. Ultra tranquil riding remained, steepish in places but generally steady up to the Horquette itself (apparently a local name for 'col'). Nice views down to the valleys on both sides, and up to the gentle hill I planned to do tomorrow morning (Plo del Naou). A relaxed and comfortable descent down to a rather muddy and shallow river bath before heading back up to the Col d'Aspin, where I coincidentally found myself parked right next to Sian and Dafydd Roberts from Coed y Brenin.

Peyresourde-Col d'Azet ride

Back on the bike this morning. I was spoiled for choice, as you might expect in one of the global epicentres of cycling. As I kept seeing TdF signs for the Col d'Azet I thought I should incorporate it. After another nice night between the two rivers in Fabian, I started off after coffee and croissant in St Lary for an easy, relaxing start along the valley to Arreau. I turned right towards the Peyresourde, a famous TdF col, frequently used, and another one of my target climbs. This takes some time to properly get going, and by the time it did I was already tiring. It is not particularly hard, but after the first third of it (or a little more), just below Loudervielle, I took a side road towards Genos. Magnificent views up to the mountains at the head of the valley, with the Col d'Azet obviously a hard and steep climb to get back to St Lary. My decision to curtail the Peyresourde was vindicated as I was clearly starting to feel the effects of the last few days. As it turned out, Col d'Azet is notoriously steep, an archetypal Pyrenean col. From Genos it looms up fairly savagely, with consistently steep and tight 10% hairpins that go on for some time, multiple switch-backs. Fortunately, however, it is fairly short, and after the treeline it levelled out a little. The view back to the Peyresourde was exhilarating, and the col itself was a superb place to be in yet more glorious weather. It is a very well defined high col, with views to the mountains ahead and down to the deep valleys on both sides. After a break, I pelted down to St Lary, another wonderful experience retracing Tour steps. This starts fast but then has some very awkwardly steep and tight sections as it passes through little villages (like Azet itself) en route back to St Lary. In time for lunch again - this time it was tuna cake, pork with pepper sauce and profiteroles. This restored enough energy for me to at least consider an additional late afternoon ride.

Neouville peaks

Peaks: Pic d'Estaragne (3006m), Pic de Campbieil (3173m), Pic de Lentilla (3157m)

Area: Neouville Massif, Pyrenees

The concept behind this Pyrenees trip was to alternate cycling with basic mountaineering, and so it was up into the Neouville Massif for a bit of the latter this morning, a corner of the Pyrenees that I had never visited. I knew in advance that the obvious problem with the concept is that the two disciplines are just too similar (in terms of physical demands) to allow for much recovery. When I have done mountain trips with Vic or Steve we typically alternate mountaineering days with low level rock climbing, which is a much more sensible balance. That said, I felt fine today, not too tired at all despite the altitude. I drove from Fabian up into the Neouville Massif, a stunningly beautiful national park, in stupendous weather - almost impossible clarity of light, zero haze and not a cloud in the sky. I had coffee and a light breakfast from my van (I parked well below Lac Long right next to the start of the route up the first peak, Pic d'Estarange) and then started off. The route heads into the deep valley of the Ruisseau d'Estarange with Pic Mechant towering above. A delightful place of wild flowers, streams and meadows. At the top, a steep climb led into a hidden upper valley, a much wilder place with empty bowls of rock and moraines all around. A complex climb led up to the right, steeply, before traversing back left below rather loose looking walls (I saw a small rock fall at one point). The Estaragne ridge line was high above, but the route continued traversing until climbing awkward scree and a few slabby scrambling steps to move back right to gain a very shallow arete up to the summit. At the other end of the arete, the Grand Pic des Alharisses was impressive although lower. From the summit of Estarange, a stupendous view of the next peak, Campbieil, with multi-coloured rock and a classical pyramidal shape plunging down to verdant meadows far below. Memorable. It was also clearly much higher, and in fact the descent to the col was far easier than it looked, with minimal descent (although very steep). At the col, an easy contouring path takes the scree well to the right of the NE ridge crest. It then moves left to a smooth slab, fortunately at a very gentle angle. Above this, steep but easy terrain led with surprising ease to the summit. With a circuit of this kind I was mildly concerned about the nature of the descent on the other side of Campbieil but on the summit all concerns evaporated as it was obvious that fairly gentle scree slopes led down towards Lac Long. And the view was just superb - a grandstand seat looking towards the Haute Pyrenees, some of the famous peaks I had climbed in the past clearly identifiable. Monte Perdido (which I haven't done) behind the instantly recognisable cleft of the Breche du Roland and Le Taillon (which I have). Further right, the Vignemale and Balaitous resplendent, both of which I can remember as if it was yesterday (actually it was 1997). Perfect clarity and a really memorable view, as were the plunging cliffs down to Pla d'Adet and the valley I'd been staying in. Across the upper scree bowl, Pic Long looked magnificent but also loose! I decided to nip across to the subsidiary peak of Lentilla for a view back to Campbieil. Also brilliant, with even closer views of the high mountains across the valley and into Spain. As with Verdeguer, it is often the case that these satellite peaks look notable from a certain valley or viewpoint and therefore have their own names and identity despite the ease with which they can be included. After a snack I commenced the scree descent which was as easy and quick as it looked. But it still proved deceptive. As the ex-glacial bowl levelled out, the route became complex and hard to follow. It eventually led to a beautiful meadow with coalescing streams and then a drop to gain amazing views of Lac Long which was the deepest blue imaginable, Pic de Neouville rising above into a flawless blue sky. Lac Long was then a constant and almost impossibly scenic companion as the return route negotiated it by traversing high above it. This often proves trickier than expected and that was definitely the case today - it was long, complex and arduous with lots of rises and drops to gain the far side of the lake where the car park is. It took far longer than expected and was a tiring way to finish, especially as I still had some way to go back to the van. It was very busy up in the massif by now, but fortunately I was just in time for a late lunch back down in Fabian and refuelled splendidly on Pyrenean Garbure soup, Duck parmentier and fromage blanc with myrtilles.

Col du Tourmalet-Col d'Aspin ride

Hallowed ground, the greatest arena in sport (and I say that having been to the Maracana this year!) so this was quite an exciting day and one of my main objectives. I spent a memorable night at the Col d'Aspin itself watching the mist roll in and the weather constantly changing (with an artisan beer from neaby Arreau, which was en fete yesterday evening celebrating the local gateau a la broche). The roads were still damp this morning so I took my time down to my intended base for the two climbs in St Marie de Campan. After a snack, I set off up the Tourmalet, always an electrifying moment as you pass the TdF signpost detailing the climb's statistics. Around 3k in, I felt the telltale thud of my back wheel bottoming out: puncture! I had been carrying a little sac on these climbs so changed into trainers and plodded all the way back to the van for repairs as I wanted to do the climb properly from the bottom. I had never actually repaired a puncture on the Scott, but it went OK and then I set off again, a little later than planned but the advantage was that the weather was now absolutely stunning, crystal clarity after yesterday's rain and not too hot. The Tourmalet starts fairly mildly, and soon gives glimpses of what is to come. And then it comes, relentless 8% slopes through the forest to a steep and lengthy hairpin, followed by a horrible grippy drag up to the ski resort of La Mongie (the Tourmalet road surface was OK but not like the manicured perfection of the Col d'Aspin, which I was expecting). The 2km below La Mongie was, for me, the crux, and the fairly cruel gearing on the Scott really showed itself. I say this because, in my two previous TdF col cycling trips. (2011 and 2014) I never really found anything difficult, including the Ventoux, Madeleine, Galibier and so on, partly because I rode them on my old triple. The Scott had nothing like this to drop into, and so it was pretty hard. After a short easier section, the road kicks up again through La Mongie and stays at 9% or so for the final 4-5k up the exposed and oft-photographed hairpins to the summit (90m). The col itself is just a magical place for a Tour fan (I have watched it every year since it came onto C4 in the 1980s). Hundreds of cyclists from all over the world, immediate recognition. The perfect clarity of the weather helped too - it is over 2200m high, so the views were stunning, particularly down the western side which is probably more scenic and very slightly easier (although I believe there isn't much in it). I should perhaps have gone into the iconic cafe but instead took numerous photos and then took on the rapid descent all the way down to St Marie de Campan. I had a bite to eat at the van and then started out in the opposite direction towards the Col d'Aspin. This is definitively the easier side of the Aspin, but it is still a long climb, initially up shallow gradients to the beautiful pastures around Payolle. Above Payolle, it actually gets quite steep - over 10% in several places - and was obviously tiring after the Tourmalet. The surface was the best I have ever experienced, however, perfect smooth tarmac, and the climb is not that long. It was great to pull onto the col, particularly as I had spent the night there - and the contrast from mist and drizzle to dazzling sunshine was incredible. I am not a confident descender but even I was able to open out a little on the way back to St Marie, and it was pretty fast lower down. I decided to stop for a late lunch near the pastures of Payolle, where there are numerous restaurants and had local ham and cheese in a panini while I gazed up to the Horquettes d'Ancizan. I then drove down to the Aure valley, later than planned, and spent the night near Fabian rather than up in the Neouville as I'd intended. This wasn't an issue, however, as I had a lovely evening picnic in a perfect campsite away from the road (to the Bielsa border tunnel, very close) with rivers on both sides.

Pic de Fontanette

Peaks: Pic de Fontanette (2002m)

Area: Ariege, Pyrenees

I was planning to camp at the Port de Lers but storms were forecast so I prudently stayed in the valley at the same site near the bouldering. The storms took a while to arrive, and it is always disorientating in steep-sided valleys as you can often see near-constant lightning but not hear very much unless it is right overhead. It was a fairly interrupted night's sleep, and the temperature had dropped by almost 25c when I woke up (not an exaggeration, mid 30s to single figures). It was dank and misty in Vicdessos so I had cafe, local yoghurt and croissant at a delightful deli while I pondered my options. The rain had stopped, so I decided to go back up the Port de Lers and see how far I could get on the grassy ridge that lies above, where three peaks seemed doable. It was still dry when I set off in thermals, shell, hat and gloves - all quite a contrast! I was soon into the mist, and it felt like the Beacons or Yorkshire Dales. Higher up, it started to rain, horizontal stinging blasts which further reminded me of home. I decided to sack it after the first peak (Fontanette) - which had a pleasant and quite narrow ridge leading to it. I scampered back down to the Port de Lers and tried to dry off at the Etang de Lers, looking very different from yesterday. Inevitably it started to clear as I drove to Massat but I still felt it was the right decision - a transition day and a semi-rest day (although I had rather stupidly done well over 500m of ascent in 'fell race style' up to Pic de Fontanette in 30 minutes). After a superb chicken tart from a Massat Deli (it was almost uncomfortably cold outside) I drove via a St Gaudens coffee to Aurelle, and then the Col d'Aspin, where I spent a misty and atmospheric night. The weather remained unstable all day.

Port de Lers-Col de Port ride

After a very successful start summiting six splendid peaks, it was time for the bike to come out. I had a few options, wanting to do some famous Tour climbs, but eventually settled for a modestly challenging 75k/1500m loop from my camping spot near Laramade. I left fairly early, deep blue skies above and still the potential for very high temperatures, and took it easy to Vicdessos, from where the climb up to the Port de Lers begins. This was taken by the Tour a week or so ago, and the signs and graffiti were in place. It is a typical Pyrenean climb, the cliche being that instead of the consistent gradients of the Alps, the climbs here tend to rear up then flatten out making it hard to maintain a rhythm. The steep bits tend to be steeper, and having done quite a few of the classic TdF climbs in the Alps I would agree. In the case of the Port de Lers, the steepest sections are right at the start out of Vicdessos, after which it eases for a bit. It stays in woodland, reminiscent of Nant Gwynant, beautifully verdant and lush, before a sharp hairpin takes you into high open meadows with views opening out to the south and west. I really enjoyed the climb, probably my favourite of all the Tour climbs I did on this trip, and even the steeper gradients at the top were no problem. The Port de Lers itself is tranquil and pastoral, closer in ambience to the Croix Morand I did in the Auvergne to the higher cols that were to come. The descent was stupendously brilliant, even though I am always very cautious - just wonderful cycling down to the beautiful Etang de Lers and a junction with the Col d'Agnes. I ignored this in favour of continuing the descent to Massat. This was just as enjoyable, down the valley of the River Arac which was delightful, through little villages like Le Port. There was some gravelly bits but it was generally ideal - and I had been anticipating 'undulations' into the Couserans. Massat turned out to be shabby-chic and bourgeois, not an easy place for a quick snack. I had a lion bar and a fanta from a newsagent which fortified me for the Col de Port. I knew this was a long climb, but also a fairly easy one with steady and gentle 6% gradients for most of it. This climb has often featured on the Tour as it is a major through route between the Couserans and Ariege valleys (first used in the 1940s). I was tiring a little and the heat was building, but I enjoyed it, and got views over yesterday's peaks. It all had that very exciting Tour atmosphere, and it was another fast descent into Tarascon. Through the town, a little busy, and then the undulating drag back to the campsite and a welcome plunge into the Ariege (after some more bouldering). A superb little 75k loop over two famous cols, with around 1500m of climbing.

Montcalm-Estats

Peaks: Pic du Montcalm (3077m), Pica d'Estats (3143m), Pic de Verdaguer (3129m)

Area: Ariege, Pyrenees

Estats is on the border with Spain and is therefore the Catalonian highpoint. As a result, half the residents of the Pinet hut were Catalan or Spanish, heading up to this special summit. Strangely enough, I have also done Pedraforca, which also has some significance as an iconic symbol of Catalan nationhood. Whatever its wider symbolism, Pica d'Estats is a major Pyrenean peak and one that I was delighted to add to my list of Pyrenees mountains built up very intermittently over 31 years since my ascent of Pic du Midi with Stee in 1993! Pic du Montcalm came first, however, but not before a weather scare. I spent the night on the floor of the hut - such was the crowding that I just dragged my mattress to a space below the window. That said, I slept well and was only woken by an annoying alarm by a fellow dorm dweller. Peering out of the window, I was amazed and alarmed to find it raining, with a strong wind blowing and threatening cloud. Over breakfast, however, the verdict seemed to be that it would clear between 9am and midday, and these peaks are well tracked out, popular and not serious despite their altitude. So I set off with a fair amount of optimism, and felt pretty good despite yesterday's rigours. The route takes the left-hand side of the dramatic narrow valley (Ruisseau d'Estats) which plunges down to the hut from the superbly situated Etang d'Estats, surrounded by peaks, Sottlo being particularly impressive. The route then climbs steeply left to an even tighter valley, this time containing the glacial lake of the Etang de Montcalm. Above, the Point du Montcalm was an impressive spire. But the main route then became complex, weaving up tricky terrain to some snowfields and then an easier upper cwm to a major col between the two peaks. Superb views down to the eastern valleys and south into Catalonia. Altitude kicks in for me around the 3000m mark, and today was no exception. But the weather was ideal - high milky cloud, cold but not too cold, and no rain. The ascent of Montcalm is easy, steep to the east but generally quite rounded. From the summit, great views east over a standard Pyrenees cloud inversion. I had the summit to myself, always special, and made my way back to the col where I immediately began to climb up Estats. This has a tiny scrambling section, and Estats is generally a more shapely summit. A vague ridge leads to a mini col, and then shaley scrambling up to a spire-like summit, which again I had to myself. A fantastic place to be, and a great mountain. Stunning views in all directions, as this is a very prominent mountain, much higher than most of its surroundings, befitting its status. Back at the mini-col, I took in the prominent subsidiary peak which turned out to be Pic de Verdaguer (from most angles, Estats is a triple-pointed mountain with three different summits). This gave a great view back to the main top. I passed the couple from Valencia that I'd shared a table with the night before, and they pronounced themselves impressed by my speed! I really enjoyed the descent back to the hut, passing most of the hut residents on their way up as the weather cleared to blue skies and temperatures climbed considerably (I had been in coat and hat all morning). After a very short rest and drink at the hut, I took a different and much better descent to the valley. I headed initially to the little shepherds hut at Etang Sourd, then took the steep descent to regain the ascent route just above the treeline. The rest was a little tiring but fine down to L'Artigue where I had a superb river bath before heading back to Tarascon. I later camped next to the bouldering in Laramade. I had my rock shoes, and this place was almost a mini Fontainebleau. As usual, however, the discipline of bouldering just leaves me a little cold. I did a few easy problems then retired for tea.

Pic de St Barthelemy, Girabal, hut walk

Peaks: Pic de St Barthelemy (2348m),  Pic de Girabal (2169m)

Area: Ariege, Pyrenees

St Barthelemy is very notable as it emerges from the Ariege plains beyond Mirepoix. It made an obvious initial objective, and the morning dawned crystal clear with some serious heat starting to build. I was very conscious of not burning all my matches too early so adopted a sustainable pace to escape the ski developments and gain the unspoiled terrain surrounding the Etangs de Fage Belle, a small lake. The route then heads east to the hidden valley marked Font de la l'Auzate. Then came a steep climb out of dwarf woodland (with impressive stands of great yellow gentian) to gain high mountain terrain at the pronounced Col de Girabal, at which the route takes on a high mountain feel. A pleasant ridge leads to the summit of St Barthelemy. Instructive views over the entire region as it is much higher than everything else locally (apart from its immediate neighbour, which it would have been nice to have done as it looked an interesting scramble). I retraced steps down to the Col and then really enjoyed the steeper climb up to the Pic de Girabal, with a little mild scrambling in places especially on the crest. A lovely rocky summit, and then new terrain down to the next col over, the Col de l'Etang d'Appy, presumably named after the mountain lake just below. Again, I could have bagged more peaks from here but sensibly opted to complete the loop back to the Fage Belle and then back to Mont D'Olmes. A delightful start, after which I drove around to the next valley over and had lunch in Tarascon sur Ariege, before continuing to Auzat and the roadhead higher up at L'Artigue. This was rammed with day trippers escaping the heat, so I could only park lower down, after which I embarked on the walk-in to the Refuge du Pinet. I have done this before, a hut walk after a day in the mountains, and it is tiring, However, the heat today - along with the vertical interval - made this a particularly big ask at the start of the trip. That said, it was wonderful to be back in the high Pyrenees, and the route initally follows the valley of the upper Ariege with stunning views down to the river, the Cascade Pressac and up to the bare mountains further north like Pique de Belcaire. After a small error, I began to climb steeply through woodland. I hadn't done much research and was taken aback by the amount of climbing, which then got harder as it emerged from the treeline into the hanging valley south-west. No sign of the hut (which is completely hidden from view until you reach it) so life did get a bit tough for a while - sweating and dehydrating as I climbed. It got even steeper for a while, and with the 1100m climb added to the 1100m climbed this morning took it out of me more than expected. However, eventually I gained the beautiful Etang du Pinet and the wonderfully situated hut, which was packed, completely full. I was very glad that I'd booked, and just concentrating on replenishing my reserves with the usual fine four course hut meal of local beef with olives, ariege cheese, carrot soup, cake (and lots of resting admiring the view back down the valley) that evening.

Pic du Han

Peaks: Pic du Han (2074m)

Area: Ariege, Pyrenees

After dropping the family off at Carcassonne Airport I drove to Mirepoix and then up to the ski station at Mont D'Olmes. This is essentially the edge of the Pyrenees, and the hills around here were the obvious place to start. I don't recall ever visiting Ariege before either, which was a further attraction (this was my fourth Pyrenees trip, the others being 1993, 1997 and 2016). I had no real intention of doing anything today, but when I arrived I realised the cable car was still running and I just had enough time for a reccie - it seemed a perfect opportunity. So I packed quickly and took it to the top station, where I embarked on zigzags up to an obvious Col de Cadene. From there, a short east ridge leads up via a little mild scrambling to the summit of Pic du Han. In my excitement at being here I initially felt I could run over to some of the neighbouring peaks, but I soon talked myself down from such foolishness. There was an obvious need to pace myself, so I contented myself with this as an ideal little reccie, spying out the peaks of my next destination like Pica d'Estats, and then descending for the return ride just before it closed.