Mont du Grand Capelet traverse

A tremendous traverse of Mont du Grand Capelet yesterday, a long term ambition and an ideal finale to the recent period of activity. The usual 4.30am start in Esterel, then the drive up to Gordolasque before setting off for Lac Autier and the start of the traverse. The path broke off for a steep climb up the south side of the Vallon de l'Autier, a steep gorge at this point. A family of chamois followed me for some way, as the sun lit the peaks to the west: Neiglier, Collomb and Ponset. Again, fantastic stuff. The route-finding was relatively simple by Mercantour standards but still became hard to follow as I reached the inevitable clapier fields leading to Lac Autier: a classic glacial lake in an intimidating cwm with huge rock walls rising on all sides. As usual, I was completely alone. However, the onward route up the couloir to the baisse (col) seemed reasonable. In fact, it was very enjoyable: up a superbly atmospheric side valley to the SE, up moranic debris and snowfields to enter the steep and shattered couloir. This led up to a short scramble and a stunning moment as I gained the baisse du lac autier, a small gap in the rock, to instant sunshine and fabulous views across the new country over the baisse de Valmasque to the east. From here, a short scramble gained a superb level traverse to a gap between two rock towers. Then intricate route-finding SW to the hollow below Cime de Nuffie. Up scree then a tortuous but reasonable traverse along rock shelves to the south, gradually moving upwards until easy scrambling gained the summit (2935m). Another great moment, I have wanted to do this peak for some time. Views superb, particularly into the great cirque of peaks surrounding the Nice hut: Ponset, Gelas, Maledie, Clapier, Chamineye (most of which I've done). Great views east to Bego and Merveilles, although the cloud was already boiling up. Tremendous to have a summit like this to myself. Continued this superb traverse by descending the south ridge down to the narrow Pas des Conques, tremendous rock architecture. Up to the col, then nipped up the side peak of Mont des Merveilles (2720m), fantastic views up to the Capelet. From here, an easy descent on scree led to the minor summit of Mont de l'Arpette, then down to the Pas de l'Arpette for a long but superbly scenic descent to Pont de Countet. A supremely satisfying, highly rewarding traverse, and a memorable mountain day (4:40hrs, back in Esterel for lunch!). Led Bistokere (f3b) for the children at Theole today, along with Arc en Ciel (f3b) and soloed Lets Go and Moonflower at Dramont after snorkelling on the 26th. A few more runs this week, but very humid.

Castellane Pre-Alpes peaks, snorkelling, climbing, Pic de l'Ours run

My irregular campaign on the peaks around Castellane resumed yesterday with a brief but splendid foray onto the Crete de la Bernarde from the Vauplane ski 'resort' above Demandolx. Tremendously clear weather, especially for the time of year. Gained the ridge quickly and went direct for the summit of La Bernarde, the highest in the Castellane Pre-Alpes at just under 2000m. Superb views across to Verdon, Pelat, Mercantour and previously climbed Castellane peaks like the Teillion and Robion. Jogged along the wonderful ridge to the summit of La Gourre, then back to the car. After lunch in Castellane, we all drove up to the summit of Montagne de Lachens, the highest point in the Var, for a second lunch in a delightful limestone glade. I nipped up the main hill as mist spilled into the limestone clues towards the Cheiron. We all went up Pic d'Aurielle in the Esterel on the 24th, fantastic sea views. I ran up Pic de l'Ours in ridiculous midday sunshine to finish. An awful struggle, like breathing in hot tar. Some splendid snorkelling on the 23rd and 26th, around Cap Dramont (saw an octopus), and ran along the headland to the side crag, where I soloed Let's Go and Moonflower, two very simple f3s.

Dramont/Blavet climbing, Esterel fell runs

Some more rock climbing with the family in the Esterel, and a few runs now that the ultra is fading from my legs. Revisted Cap Dramont on the 21st. Led the excellent 20m pitch of Mirliton Productions (f4b), like a very good sustained UK Severe. Nipped up the equally good Va Comprendre Charles (f5a), then did RER (f3c) which M followed to half way. All good long pitches, but baking hot. Next day visited La Capelle at the Gorge de Blavet. Led Benjamin Le Lutin (f4b), the Isengard (f4b), followed by the tiny slab ideal for children. Les Bebes (f3b) and Camille la Chenille (f3a) were ideal for the children and Kate! Followed up with solos of La Belle Eowin (4a), Belle La Coccinelle (4a), Pierrot la Moineau (4a), Tom Bombadil (4a), Gringalette (f3) and Garoudoudou (f3). All nice easy grippy climbs. A lovely venue, ideal for children. Then went for a meal in Fayence before running in the Esterel. Ran up Pic du Cap Roux in stunning clear conditions on the 23rd, followed by a play on the Theole slab, soloing the easy p.1 of Bistokere.

Cime de l'Agnel, Cime de la Malaribe, Cime de l'Agnelliere, Cime de Juisse

A superb Maritime Alps trip yesterday. Left Esterel at the usual time of 4:30am, arriving two hours later at the Vacherie du Boreon. A delightful walk up the Boreon valley passed the Peirastreche chalet gained the Cougourde hut in a stunning setting: a sylvan glade of pines surrounded by stunning rock peaks. The usual faint paths and tricky route finding led up to the treeline at the Lac de Sagnes. Then up NW to the stream along the Vallet Escure. A powerful isolated atmosphere as I crested this little valley to gain a gorge then the tenuous and hard to follow path winding up the stream that leads up to the hanging cwm containing the Lac de l'Agnel: a superb remote spot with an ice-choked lake and large snowfield. The sun finally hit me as the complex and absorbing route finding continued. As usual, nobody in front or behind me: indeed, I was certainly the only person amongst these upper Cougourde peaks all day (a Saturday!) although the lower (marked) paths were very busy. The difficult terrain must be the reason: the usual clapier fields led to a blunt spur, then a grassy terrace leading to the rubbly and steep upper slopes of the peak and finally the very small pulpit-like summit of Cime de l'Agnel (2927m). Superb views of the Cougourde and Argentera. I skirted the upper rocky cwm to gain the frontier ridge crest and the Italian border. Then followed the excellent but brief narrow ridge, quite scrambly (I), to the summit of Cime de la Malaribe (2861m) with stupendous views along the ridge to the Cougourde. Down without incident to the hit, where I had an elegant breakfast of coffee and omlette, girding my loins for a huge extension to the day, which took me SE to the stunning Lac de Trecolpas - arguably the most beautiful spot in the Mercantour - then steeply up to the Pas de Ladres at 2448m, a big climb after the two previous peaks. Then a long climb up to the rocky ridge that leads to the summit of Cime de l'Agnelliere (2700m), a bulky and imposing peak which has often caught my eye. Great views back over Haut Boreon, even though it had clouded over. Then down the ridge to the independent summit of Cime de Juisse (2580m) and SW along the now grassy ridge to the Pas des Roubines de la Mairis, and steeplu from there back to the Vacherie and the car. A long and very rewarding day through new territory for me: a superb part of the Mercantour and another addition to numerous memorable days in the Maritime Alps.

Cap Dramont climbs

On holiday in Provence: went for a family climbing trip to Cap Dramont today. Typical Esterel climbing, but with a delightful coastal twist. Selected some easy routes, with M and E in full body harness. Led Le Plan Qui Vient de Guinee (f3c) a nice easy line up the main face, which both children followed to half way. Then L'Avidite du Concierge, a nice f4b which Morgan followed after a cunning r-hand variant! Quickly nipped up Les Rossignols du Caroubier to finish. A few easy runs in the very hot weather this week: still in recovery mode after Iceland. But Provence is a nice contrast!

Laugavegur ultra marathon, Iceland

The culmination of all the spring/summer events and a fantastic trip to Iceland. This is the most memorable event I've ever participated in, even better than the Jungfrau marathon. Myself, Neil and Dave arrived in Reykjavik on Thursday and left for the race at 3.30am Saturday morning. A 4 hour drive off road in bad weather took us to the start at Landmannalaugur, where the weather had fortunately improved. The race was stunning and hugely varied from start to finish. It begins steeply to gain the Namskvisl hanging cwm - meadows surrounded by colourful volcanic peaks. Then up passed steaming volcanic vents to the steep ridge leading up scree to the Brennisteinsalda. Stupendous views now opening out over the huge Tungnaa river valley and myriad peaks. From here, fabulous running along a broader ridge leads up with 500m climbing to snow fields, small glaciers and - in low cloud - the plateau summit of Hrafntinnusker. This volcano is characterised by fields of shining obsidian and was a remarkable place to run. From here, more steaming fumeroles and sulphur lead to big snowfields and an emergence from the mist revealing fantastic orange and white peaks like Reykjafjoll and Kaldaklofsjoll. The route climbs to a narrow col, along a ridge then skirts a glacier to descend a ridge with stunning new views over the race to come: real Norse God territory. Down this ridge to a river crossing then the flat valley leading to the second hut and checkpoint at Alftavatn lake. It started raining at this point, but it didn't matter as we crossed our first major river, the Bratthalskvisl to climb up to weird lava field and new vistas at Hvanngilskrokur. Distant views of the huge Myrdasjokull glacier as we crossed some big glacial torrents before reaching the half way point. Changed shoes for the long flat crossing of an extraordinary lava field of black sand, surrounded by peculiar volcanic peaks like Hattafell and Storkonufell to eventually descend to the third hut at Botnar and some welcome greenery. It was raining heavily as I started the final section down to the gorge at Fremri Emstrua - some wet scrambling on ropes after running a marathon! The final 15k rollowes the Markarrhot gorge/river down to juniper and birch woodland, then a final steep climb to cross the ridge above Kapa. A final agonisingly cold river crossing (the Krossa) leads to more woodland and a sprint finish down to Thorsmork, where hot springs awaited. Finished in 6:34 for 71st place (55k/34 miles/700m/2-3000ft climbing), but took 60 pictures and had no intention of racing. The best event I have ever done and the definition of what I enjoy most of all. Off to Provence tonight.

Moel y Gamelin fell race

Last race before Iceland and France yesterday - the Moel y Gamelin fell race above Llangollen. Really enjoyed the event, and detected something of an improvement, feeling progressively stronger as the race went on to finish 13th from 74 in 1:24:34. It starts at the Horseshoe Pass, crossing the whole ridge over Moel y Faen, Moel y Gamelin, Moel y Gaer and Moel Morfydd. I took this section very steadily in 25 mins, not wanting to blow up: great views and exhilerating steep descents. Then a gentler descent from Morfydd down narrow sheep tracks to Bwlch y Groes with great views of the Berwyn, followed by a big loop around the bridleways to the west. Back via Tan y Foel to the Conquering Hero path up to the ridge than back over Gamelin and Moel y Faen. I picked the pace up on the track back, passing 10-15 runners including 4 or 5 on the final summit. Not sure I've ever timed a fell race this well. Maintained place on thunderous descent to the Ponderosa, just before the heavens opened. I intend to rest up now, just a few short runs, before flying out to Iceland on Thursday morning.

Llanberis slate climbs

A busy and active day yesterday, started climbing with Alwyn at 9am in the slate quarries with a lead of the splendid Fresh Air (f6a), the interesting slab behind the tower in Never Never Land area. Nice route, delicate but never especially hard. Felt straitforward and slightly overgraded, but lovely moves with the sun gently warming the upper slab. Then led Hawkeye (f5c) round the corner, an odd disjointed route up a juggy arete. We moved up to Australia level (Sidings slab) where I led the smooth pillar of N Gauge (f6a) which felt tough, awkward. I used the top crack to gain the lower off. Seconded Side Line (f4c) to the right, then led the thin and rather tricky slab line of The Mallard (f5c), considerably tougher than the Dali's Hole routes at the same grade. As was Sodor (f5c) which I seconded (up the very thin crack left). Polar Express (f5b) and Ivor the Engine (f5a) completed the routes on this slab in similar, but easier, vein. After Gordon (f3c!), led the interesting arete and groove taken by Choo Choo (f5b) in a nice position above the 'cwm', followed by the stepped groove of Hogwarts Express (f5c) - easy climbing up to a very awkward crux up a narrow groove at the top of the route. We tried some more routes at Bus Stop Quarry (last visited in 1993!) but I was tiring. Then drove to Cadole via K and L in Conwy, then the lanes from Cilcain to join the Colomendy run up Moel Famau in pleasant sunshine. Good views of Eryri from the top. Felt OK on the run, surprisingly, but the beer was appreciated at the end of a long day.

Hotfoot up Famau race

Another very nice event last night, dodging the showers for the second fell race of the summer Clwydian series. Hotfoot up Famau is probably the steepest of the three, and this was another distinctly average performance for me. But probably not the ideal event for me given the stuff I've been training for: the race is a manic 3.5 mile dash with 1,200ft of climbing up the tiny bracken-filled paths (lots of scratches and blood) over the hillfort of Moel y Gaer, then down to Nant y Ne and up stony gully to the OD path down from the summit. Lovely evening, and the usual nice atmosphere. I finished 13th from 56 in 43:06. Neil and I ran up Foel Fenlli in the late sunshine to warm down, and I followed up with a 6 miler in heavy showers this morning.

Mileage increase

Upped the mileage to around 53m last week, running every day: needed to get some biggish runs in before Iceland. Joined the Collie run up Moel Famau in the mist on Friday. Had a short one on Saturday, then ran up Waun y Llyn from the house in 42 mins on Sunday (and back). Two races this week, then I'll ease off before Iceland.

Eglwyseg climbing

A slightly disappointing climbing trip to Trevor Rocks yesterday evening, in cool, windy conditions. Seconded Dale up The Full Nine Llaths (f5), then led the loose and unpleasant Cwm again (f4), before seconding Welsh Fargo (f5) and Dim Parcio (f4). All these newly bolted routes, to the left of the main climbing area, are rather scrappy: downright loose in places. Poor climbing and clearly near to a peregrine nest. Switched to the much better routes on the Compact Wall. Failed on the crux of Super Furry Frogs before clumsily climbing Boreholderline (f6a) after a rest (feeling tired after yesterday's 20 mile run), a steep route on the right of Compact Wall, and seconding I Met a Man from Mars (f6a+). This is a fine, sustained line up a steep flake on small positive holds: by far the best route of the day.

Llangollen-Kinnerton run

A cracking training run for the imminent Iceland ultra race with Dave today. Kate dropped us off in Llangollen, and we ran up to Eglwyseg via Dinbren wood to the Offa's Dyke path. Superb running below all the crags led to World's End and the steep climb up the Esclusham mountain road to the path along the Aber Sychnant. This was very vague indeed, almost impossible to follow through the bog and heather (although we did see a black grouse). Then down to Ty Hir farm, then NE to the Nant Road and up to Bwlchgwyn. Down the minor road skirting Nant y Ffrith to Glascoed, then the bridleway down to Ffrith. Up to Cymau, then Abermorddu, through Hope to Shordley and the lanes back to HK and the house. Probably about 18 miles, but largely off road and very hilly so felt much longer. Good training for Iceland.

Slackening off

A less active few days, feeling tired. Low mileage last week, and no climbing. Did some bouldering in the Twilight area of Eglwyseg on Friday, with a quick run to the plateau. Then did the Gallon Walk (or most of it) in beautiful weather with Neil on Friday evening. Pints in the Druid, Loggerheads, Swan, Rainbow, then up to Moel Findeg. Great event. Followed by a frantic day trip to Northern Ireland by plane from Liverpool with K and L. Had intended to run in the Mournes, but terrible weather meant a car tour of Armagh and Down was more sensible.

Druid fell race

A slightly disappointing performance in last night's Druid fell race, which does a double climb of Foel Fenlli from Llanferres, the first of the Clwydian summer trots. Finished about 50 secs up on last year's time in 40:25 for 14th place (same position as last year), but felt I didn't climb or descend particularly well. Felt annoyingly tired on both climbs up Foel Fenlli, should have been much fresher, but this race is so nice and enjoyable it didn't really matter. Weather was fairly windy and wet, so the woods were extremely dark!

Famau/Hope training

Feeling tired after recent events, but did have a good run up Moel Famau on Friday night with the Colomendy crew (immediately after 5-a-side in Saltney). Felt quite good, and followed up with the Golly 10k on Saturday (slow) then a few hill reps on Sunday. This morning, ran from Hope over Waun y Llyn to Coed Talon, along the track to Llanfynydd then back over to Hope.

Eglwyseg climbs

A successful and enjoyable evening's climbing on the bolts at Trevor with Dale. Decided to up the standard this time and was very pleased with the way I coped with routes that were considerably more technical and strenuous than most of the other climbs done this year. Began with a nice clean lead of Long Legged Lizard from Liverpool, a slabby f6a near the Compact Wall, which goes fairly easily to the break, with an obvious crux on a very small hold above the break to gain the lower-off. Good climb, as was No Reptiles, another very nice 6a climbed cleanly and quickly, satisfying: more sustained, good moves, but lacking any moves as hard as the crux on Long Legged. Took the opportunity to second the much more technical Snakes in the Grass, another sustained f6b, which I coped OK with. Then seconded K9, a short f5 route done before, then Dogs of War (f6a+) with its tricky crux move over the bulge. Then seconded Deputy Dog, a poor f4+, then the very nice traverse line Over the Wall (f6a) which I led last year. Finally top-roped Checkpoint Charlie, a splendid f6b. Steep, but also positive small holds on good rough rock. I was tiring by this point, but it seemed well leadable, although probably at my current limit. My aim is to lead every sports route at Trevor up to (and possibly including) f6b.

Up the Beast fell race

A new (or revived) local fell race took place on Tuesday evening. Far too soon after the 1000m race for me, but decided to support it by running it with tired legs! A cracking route, from the pub in Maeshafn south through the woods of Big Covert to the bridleway then steep climb up 'the beast' to the limestone hills of Bryn Alyn north of Eryrys. Good running across the limestone valleys back to the path skirting Burley Hills quarry and the village. Finished in about 32m, for about 14th place. OK, given the tiring nature of the weekend.

Llanberis slate

Had a conference yesterday in Llandudno, so took the opportunity to get some climbing in first. Scratched around unsuccessfully on Lliwedd before retreating to the bolted slate with Alwyn. Explored the Australia level this time, a huge bowl of shattered rock and a remarkable place. Led UBL, an easy HS with two bolts, then Sad Man Who's Sane, the slabby VS 4c to its left. Then led The Deceptive Dyke (F5+) up a wide groove in the face (NE Spur?) beyond the tunnel. Unusual route, up quartz holds - not slate. Because I'd wasted most of the day, we then just had time for Steps to Glory (F5) on the level above - the best route of the day, nice edging in a good position above the quarry. Then two poor routes to finish: Kinder Surprise (F4+) and Sport 4 All (F4+).

Welsh 1000m peaks fell race

A fantastic day yesterday, competing in the Welsh 1000 metre peaks fell race for the first time. This was a fairly long-term aim, but coming so soon after the marathon (13 days) I wasn't sure how I'd get on. In the event, I felt reasonably good throughout. It's an epic event, in every sense, starting with Neil Parry by the sea in Aber, going up and over the Aber Falls to the Afon Goch valley. Up the steep western wall of the valley to thread between Bera Mawr and Bera Bach, then into the clag. I joined a small group which traversed the side of Foel Grach to regain the main path up Llewellyn later on, shaving a few minutes of the route I'd planned. About 90 mins to the summit of Llewellyn from the coast, feeling fairly strong and well placed at this point (certainly in the top 20). A spectacular clearance as we ran along the ridge to Dafydd, cloud peeling away to the west. Then retraced steps along the edge of Cwm Lloer to the new checkpoint then steeply down to Ffynnon Llugwy, with dehydration starting to kick in. Had some water, then down the horrible tarmac road to the A5, more water, then up Nant yr Ogof (rather tiring) to crest the Glyder ridge at Llyn y Caseg fraith. Superb views of the east face of Tryfan kept my mind off the increasing fatigue! Completely alone at this point, the race spread out. Then the awful descent down the Miner's Track past another checkpoint. Very rocky and awkward, turned my ankle several times. West to Llyn Cwmffynnon, then an energy-sapping runnable bogtrot to Pen y Pass and more water. Surreal running through the tourists in the car park to the Pyg Track and final push for Yr Wyddfa. Went reasonably well, but I began to slow and was passed by five runners. Huge numbers of tourists on the path, which is runnable at many points. Up into the clag at the zigzags, but kept pushing to the top of Carnedd Ugain (Crib y Ddisgyl) in under 5 hours, then over to the summit of Snowdon - the fourth and final 1000m peak - in about 5:06, for 26th place. A long day in the saddle (22 miles, 8000ft+ climbing), particularly as we had to walk back to Llanberis from the summit: an extra 5 or 6 miles (although it was actually a very pleasant warm down).

Pinfold climbing

A brief evening climbing trip to Pinfold with Dale yesterday. Didn't get much done, but it was my first visit to this nicely situated crag for 15 or 16 years, so a real trip down memory lane - interesting to look at some of the lines I did then, remarkable to think that I'd soloed several of them. Yesterday, action was very limited: I soloed up and down the very simple Lax (M), then seconded Dale up Trophy (HS), the messy groove left of Obelisks Fly High. Then led Auto-de-Fe, a reasonable S (at least the top crack was nice). Couldn't remember doing this route before.