Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Carreg Alltrem climbing

Crag: Carreg Alltrem, Lledr Valley
Routes: Lightning Visit (VS 4b,4c:led p.1), Lavaredo (VS 4b,5a:led p.1)
A brief visit to this tranquil valley near Dolwyddelan. I led the two classic VS's 20 years ago, but, struggling with bruised ribs, they were the only real option today. The bruised ribs were one problem, another issue was the steady drizzle that failed to clear. The easy first pitch of Lightning Visit was more tricky than it might have been, as a result, with watery pockets and greasy rock. My ribs hurt a little as I followed Mick up the steepish final groove. After a nasty descent down the gully, I nipped up the first pitch of Lavaredo. This route was as good as I remembered, certainly one of the finest VS's in South Snowdonia. Nice intricate climbing up a groove leads to steep moves right to a spike, then a pull back left round an arete - tricky for the grade - leading to easy ground. Mick led the steep top pitch, which takes in some exposed and steep ground for the grade. Up to some flakes, lots of space below, then a hard pull up to more good holds and fine climbing to the top. Abbed down, in some pain, and reluctantly called it a day. Annoying, as the sun had come out, and I'd planned to do a fell race in the evening.

Saturday, July 14, 2012

Pen y Fan fell race

Race: Pen y Fan fell race (3.5m/2000ft/AS)
Time/Position: 40:21 (15th from 130 [2nd V40])
Peaks: Corn Du, Pen y Fan
Area: Brecon Beacons
I wasn't too sure how this would go, given my recent Alpine exertions, but wanted to give it a bash as it was one of this year's Welsh Championship series. I'm glad we made the effort to drive down just a few hours after returning from the Alps, as it is one of the best short fell races anywhere, a real classic which packs a great deal of action into 5k. A strong field meant an uncomfortably fast start up steep but runnable slopes from the start in Cwm Llwch above Brecon (E started next to me at the same time in the junior race!). My muscles immediately felt drained of energy, and I had a peculiar aching sensation even in my biceps for some reason. I recovered a bit as the slopes levelled off for the contouring path round to the obelisk on the ridge up Corn Du. This then becomes a steep 'pavement', up which I could only stride in my fatigued state. Some light, humid mist as I crested Corn Du then pelted over to Pen y Fan in a slow 30.04 - 18th at this point. Then comes the classic descent, steeply down rock steps to very steep grass - numerous runners literally rolling down the hillside, or using impromptu (and presumably painful) buttock sledges to descend. I managed to stay upright, just, and took the obvious traverse line due north but corrected myself when I saw others pelting straight down to the base of the cwm - thinking there may have been a checkpoint there. There wasn't, so I resumed the contouring and crossed the river efficiently before enjoying the very fast onward route down gentler slopes to the finish (10:17 for the descent - the 7th fastest, rather surprisingly as I felt I'd taken a bad line).

Thursday, July 12, 2012

Alagna climbing

Crag: Alagna village boulder, Alagna Valsesia
Routes: Left Arete (f4:sol), Slab Left (f4:sol), Slab Centre (f5:sol), Slab Right (f5:sol)
Another large glacial erratic, in the mould of the one we discovered at Merletti yesterday morning. This one also had bolted climbs up it, but was far more amenable, and smaller, and gave just a few minutes exercise after I'd relaxed with an afternoon beer following this morning's lengthy Valsesia traverse. The routes on the right on the slab were affected by lichen, the others were short slabs of pocketed granite.

Valsesia traverse

Peaks: Cornello Tailly (2708m/8884ft)
Area: Valsesia, Pennine Alps, Italy
A bitterly cold morning, despite the relatively low altitude of the hut (2500m). I wanted to catch the sun rising over Monte Tagliaferro across the valley to the east, however, so put on all my layers and left the hut just after 5am. Pink and orange alpenglow lit the walls of Corno Biano behind the hut, and the sun gradually rose above the shoulder of Tagliaferro before sinking back behind the bulk of the peak. We left the hut after a brief and painfully brew-less breakfast to continue the planned traverse of the range just before 6am. The route gradually moves south through the cwm containing the massively diminished Otro glacier. Huge boulders scattered throughout the cwm made for difficult route-finding and slow progress, but reminded me strongly of the 'clapier' fields that typify my main stomping ground of the Maritime Alps. Familiar terrain indeed, but this kind of chaotic landscape is never easy to negotiate. We eventually gained the very steep scree slopes up the side wall to the Colletto di Tailly, steep enough indeed to give some scrambling as light relief from the shifting moraine debris. From the small sunlit col, a stunning view to the north over the emerald green slopes of Punta Straling opened up, with the remarkable white wall of Monte Rose rising beyond. This is certainly up there with the best views in Europe, particularly in this superbly clear early morning light. Huw was some way behind at this point, so I took the opportunity to scramble up the ridge to the highpoint of Cornello Tailly, which is essentially the top of one of the many spurs thrown down by the parent peak of Corno Biano (but which appears as an impressive spire from the Otro valley below). After descending to the col, I met Huw for a brief rest. From here, an annoying descent led to the greener cwm containing the Tailly lakes, but we fashioned an efficient contouring line to cut the corner of the cwm and find what I hoped was the onward route up Corno Biano - the day's objective and indeed the objective of this entire two-day traverse. A tiny path led up steep grass to a 60ft pitch up a slabby wall. A cable eased progress somewhat, but it felt safer to ignore it: the wall gave fine scrambling up small positive holds at around II+. Above, the route eased to eventually gain a superbly wild Alpine cwm containing the remnants of the Nevaio di Puio glacier. This is a genuinely remote spot, at least five hours walk from the nearest road. Huw had a rest - the weather remaining perfectly sunny and stable - while I picked my way through the moraines at the bottom of this glacial bowl to a series of steepish snow slopes which led to the south wall of the cwm. It all felt like a rather obscure route up the peak and I could see no evidence of tracks or previous ascents this year: surely this can't have been the first by this route this season? The wall to the south appeared almost sheer, but I initially followed route marks to a steep wall and had high hopes of finding the chains that supposedly eased progress up the crags to the breche. I was well above 3000m by now, and the summit was very close. Sadly, however, I failed to find a feasible onward route: I hadn't packed the rope and was unwilling to commit to the onward route in terrain like this, which was potentially quite serious, without being sure. This was all bitterly disappointing, and I can only conclude that the cairns and perhaps even the chains were buried under the substantial amount of late season snow that remained in the cwm. I made my way back to Huw and we descended to the sun-drenched Tailly Lakes to continue the grand traverse. The path down this side of the valley was, if anything, even more remote and obscure than the route of ascent on the north side of the Otro: it became slippery, tenuous and physically draining, although the views of Monte Rosa remained stupendous and admirably compensated. The path weaved and twisted and was hopelessly vegetated in places, seemingly devoid of any human traffic, but we finally gained the bottom of the valley and an easier onward riverside route to Alagna. This joined the ascent route just above the village, and we got to the deli a few minutes before it shut for lunch.

Wednesday, July 11, 2012

Passo dell'Uomo Storto

Peaks: P. dell'Uomo Storto (2874m/9429ft)
Area: Valsesia, Pennine Alps, Italy
It was a tricky task to decide what to do with our remaining two days in the Alps. We were tempted to head over to Switzerland, but in the end we decided to maximise the time in the mountains by going for a two day traverse of the lower Valsesia peaks. This was, if you like, the 'green' trip - in contrast to the earlier 'white' trip up the high peaks of Monte Rosa. The contrast was wonderful, and remarkable given the two ranges proximity: indeed, the starting point again was Alagna. We didn't even need the car. We set off just before midday up the wooded slopes which shroud the side of the Otro valley, feeling fairly comfortable after yesterday's exertions. Delightful walking led to the treeline and a stunning moment as we emerged into Alpine meadows near the village of Follu. This, and the other Walser (Germanic) villages around Valsesia reminded me quite strongly of Nepalese treks. No road access, beautiful stone-built cottages, and superb views over to Monte Tagliaferro, a striking rock peak east of Alagna. The walking then became even more Himalayan in character, following broad donkey tracks through a series of beautiful traffic-free remote villages. First came Scarpia, preceded by tranquil Alpine meadows. After a brief lunch, we continued along the tracks - here part of the long distance Tour de Monte Rosa - up to the even more remote Pianmisura. At this point, our route to the bivvy hut broke off and immediately became very tortuous and surprisingly hard to follow. It was considerably overgrown in places, but soon the vegetation died away and the scenery became more high mountain as we gained the wild cwm containing Lac Terrafrancia. Above this, a steep moraine led to another small glacial lake with the Ravelli Bivouac hut on a small spur above. The location was stunning, and our choice of outing seemed vindicated. The views over the Otro valley towards Tagliaferro, Piglimo and Cima Carnera were wonderful, as were the closer views up the rock walls of Corno Biano. The hut was memorable: a small metal tube containing a cosy wood-panelled chamber, gas stove and four beds. We were, needless to say, the only residents (the four hour walk-in presumably prevents overcrowding!). And, according to the hut book, perhaps the first foreigners to have visited for several years. After a break and snack, I headed off on an afternoon outing, up the snow slopes above the hut. These steep slopes led to a small peak above a spur then a remote ice-dammed lake.  I skirted this along a moraine, then gained steep and unpleasant scree up to the tiny breche of the Passo dell'Uomo Storto ('Crippled Man'), a classic high Alpine pass linking Valsesia and Gressoney: two neighbouring valleys with different linguistic heritage and culture (very broadly 'French' in Gressoney, Germanic in Valsesia, despite both being in Italy), an illustration of the remoteness and difficulty of this pass, perhaps! I then scrambled up the sharp peak to the north at 2874m, which was essentially a giant gendarme on the multi-crested ridge between Corno Rosso and the parent peak of Corno Bianco. The north ridge up Bianco looked superb. The weather then closed in, with a brief shower as I descended to the hut. Later, a much heavier shower gave way to a stunning rainbow - truly memorable - stretched across the entire Otro valley with the eastern peaks beyond.

Merletti climbing

Crag: Merletti, Valsesia
Routes: Central Slab (f6a+:led), Left Slab (f6a:sec)
Rather tired after yesterday's exertions, so this morning we allowed ourselves a leisurely breakfast then drove north up the valley to the roadhead above the Pastore Refuge for excellent views of the East wall of the Italian side of Monte Rosa. This face gets almost Himalayan in scale further north towards Macugnaga, but even here the upward views are impressive. I spied a large bolted boulder right by the road near Merletti and couldn't resist having a go at the central line up the steep slab marking the south side of the boulder, maybe 40ft high. This proved far more technical than it looked, with a desperate start at 6b/c or so using tiny sidepulls and foot smears to move above the first bolt. Tired after yesterday, I resorted to a brief spot of aid to gain easier climbing above. Small horizontal ledges then made for easier progress to the top. The route further left was a little easier, but it still had a hard start. We then left for the village to get some provisions before embarking on our next trip up to the Ravelli bivouac hut.

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

Monte Rosa traverse

Peaks: Signalkuppe (4556m/14947ft), Ludwigshohe (4341m/14242ft), Corno Nero/Schwarzhorn (4321m/14176ft)
Routes: South-West Flank (F+), South-West Ridge (PD-), North-West Flank (PD)
Area: Monte Rosa, Pennine Alps, Italy
A relatively late start by Alpine standards, with a 4am breakfast call, perhaps illustrating the pedestrian nature of this route up the Italian flank of Monte Rosa. But it was still exciting to be back in the high Alps, despite our modest plans for the day, and I savoured the ambience as we set off from the Mantova hut up the Garstelet glacier just before 5am. Small pools of light from the headtorch soon gave way to the half light of early morning, and the eerie blue glow from the glacial scenery and large seracs below Vincent. I kept a slow plod going, but Huw began to suffer again as we began the steep slopes east of Vincent. This was hardly surprising, given our short period of acclimatisation, and he seemed OK after a short rest. We continued in this vein, plodding upwards to the col then curving west past some big crevasses towards the Lyskamm. We passed just below the rocky outcrop of the Balmenhorn before gaining the Lysjoch - the obvious large col where views open out to the north. Passing into Switzerland, we enjoyed the superb new views over the Dufourspitze ahead and Matterhorn left. Some big cloud banks boiled over the ridges of the Matterhorn and Ober Gabelhorn. The contrast between the rocky peaks around Zermatt and the enchanting white world of Monte Rosa was stunning. The dramatic beauty of these upper Monte Rosa slopes is just remarkable: the low sun now reflecting off the fresh snow crystals. Huw continued to struggle, however, and as we traversed below the Parrotspitze life became much harder as the new snow had blown around and drifted in places. Soft and draining plodding is never ideal: even less so at this altitude, and his pace understandably slowed dramatically. After several breaks, we finally crested the steep and windblown slopes up to the Col Gnifetti. Huw couldn't go any further, but I could untie safely up here and enjoyed the final icy slopes up to the summit of Signalkuppe and its celebrated hut. Surprisingly steep and icy, quite sporting: a little over 3 hours from Rifugio Mantova. Great views from the summit, although cloud boiled up again to the east. The desperately cold wind was a real problem, however, and I was conscious of Huw waiting at the col. My feet were getting very cold, so I tore myself away from the views of Nordend and beyond to climb down the steep slope to rejoin him. I really wanted to take in the Zumsteinspitze and was very disappointed not to be able to, but Huw had to descend. As we approached the Parrotspitze, another key target, I asked again - but he was still suffering so we had to continue down. A shame, but as we regained the Lysjoch, sunshine and calm weather, Huw started to feel better and agreed to wait while I collected a few more peaks. I thoroughly enjoyed the lovely symmetrical snow arete leading SE to the summit of the Ludwigshohe. The weather was clearing west, and I was struck by the proximity of the fine looking peak of Corno Nero, probably the most impressive summit on this ridge. I could not resist, so ploughed down to the Zurbriggen col and up the 40m steep slope to the summit. This gave very enjoyable easy snow climbing, perhaps grade II in UK winter terms, and led up to a very airy summit ridge. A spectacular location, with stunning views over the ridge back to Signalkuppe. Stunning clarity of light, with the deepest blue sky imaginable and distant views even to Monte Viso, well to the south. I now had to get back to Huw, which necessitated a climb back over the Ludwigshohe arete. This was tough, and I started to suffer towards the top, but a long downward plod to the Mantova hut was all we had left to do. After a break, we headed down the easier lower route to the Indren glacier and the cable cars: low cloud by now, quite grim higher up. A late lunch of proscuito panini in Alagna was much appreciated, and we then enjoyed a few hours of relaxation at the campsite.

Monday, July 09, 2012

Piramide Vincent

Peaks: Piramide Vincent (4215m/13829ft)
Routes: North-West Flank (F)
Area: Monte Rosa, Pennine Alps, Italy
An acclimatisation outing on one of the the most straightforward of the bigger Alpine peaks. It worked very well in that respect, as our time was very limited (four days in the Alps!) and we had plans to go well above 4500m tomorrow. This very rapid ascent to 4000m+ was always going to be physically challenging, as Huw and I had flown into Milan just yesterday evening, then woken up first thing to get the trio of cable cars from our camp in Alagna up to the top station at Punta Indren. But despite the rapid ascent to altitude we didn't feel too bad as we plodded across the lower Ghiacciaio di Indren from Punta Indren and took the upper branch of the marked route to the short upper glacier. This gave a fine scramble up a steep but broken moraine/wall, for which we removed crampons. Some enjoyable easy rock walls leds to short icy sections then a longer series of ladders, cable and rocky walls to gain the small Garstelet glacier between the Gnifetti and Mantova huts. We roped up, then took it fairly easy for the glacier plod above Gnifetti to the steeper slopes below the seracs which lead up towards the Lysjoch. The weather was superb in terms of clarity, but a vicious wind was clearly going to compromise our comfort slightly. It was great to be back in the high Alps, however - my first trip above 4000m since 1998! As we approached the broad col west of Vincent, views opened out. The Lyskamm was particularly notable, as was the more distant Mont Blanc and Gran Paradiso, reminding me of our ascent back in 1995. The wind made life tricky for the final climb up Vincent, as it whipped across the gap, covering the tracks and cutting through our clothes. Fortunately, we had plenty of extra layers, and the final push through a tiny cornice to the summit went quite well. A bank of cloud was boiling up the Piedmontese side of the ridge lending superb definition to the notable sharp summit of Corno Nero. We didn't waste much time on the summit, and plunged back down to the col, taking it easier for the descent down to Rifugio Mantova as the clouds began to gather above. An expensive plate of excellent gnocchi, alongside an even more expensive beer, made a fine lunch. This was my tactic, sleeping as low as was feasible (still 3500m though) and, alongside a modest intake of ibuprofen, it made for a reasonably comfortable night in this pleasantly updated, though pricey, hut. Good views from the terrace down to Valsesia, Aosta and Gran Paradiso, and up to the Lyskamm and Piramide Vincent, which looks surprisingly impressive from below.

Thursday, July 05, 2012

Deestriders Off Road race

Race: Deestriders Off-Road Grand Prix Race 2 (5.6m)
Time/Position: 35.59 (8th from 92 [3rd V40])
A rather confusing series of cross-country loops around the no-man's land between Shotton and the Dee. I really struggled to hold any kind of pace this evening, and had no real idea where I was in relation to the rest of the race as we seemed to do one too many laps at the far end of the course. I've never indulged in this long-established local evening series before, partly because it's not the most appealing locale, but it does make for a good speed session. One big loop along the Dee was followed by a shorter series of wooded loops with sharp XC turns and little banks and hills. Then a long loop back towards Chester through a bog. Not exactly my cup of tea, and I lost several places in the last mile or two. Very humid throughout, or maybe that was just me struggling with the pace!

Saturday, June 30, 2012

Ras Foel Fras

Race: Foel Fras fell race (12m/3100ft/BL)
Time/Position: 1:48:58 (2nd from 52 [1st V40])
Peaks: Drum, Foel Fras, Garnedd Uchaf, Moel Wnion
If last Sunday's win was unexpected, pulling into the lead in this long fell race after Garnedd Uchaf was even more surprising. It's my third or fourth time at this event, and it's one I really enjoy - with the very long but fairly gradual climb up Drum from Aber leading to big gaps between runners and some often quite challenging conditions on the higher tops spicing things up a bit. I gradually moved through the field on the climb, which is runnable throughout even for me, and was in second place as a fierce squally shower came in as we got to the top of Drum in less than 45m. I gradually started gaining on the chap in front during the boggy, hard climb up Foel Fras but he stayed away as the weather really closed in for the aquatic run over to Garnedd Uchaf (Carnedd Gwenllian as it now is). I finally caught him on Garnedd Uchaf in dire weather: heavy rain turning to hail, strong winds. There's no good route down to the traverse path, so I just ploughed through the boulders trying to keep the right line. I was getting colder and colder, and had memories of this race in 2009 - when a ferocious squall at exactly this point decimated the field and led to a few hypothermia cases - so I put on my jacket and checked the bearing briefly as I was now alone at the front of the race. This delay may have ended up costing me the race, but at least I was then comfortable and confident about the navigation. I upped the pace down to Llwybr yr Aryg and a marshall, then kept a good pace to the bwlch below Moel Wnion. I seemed to be well out in front as the sun came out, and to my surprise it looked like I was going to win a race for the second time in six days. I jogged up to the summit of Wnion, risking a backward glance and not seeing anyone in the big landscape. But then I looked over to the right, and saw that a) I was 100m left of the checkpoint and b) a previously unseen Eryri runner was storming up a more direct route up Wnion! I pelted across to the checkpoint and began the descent, but was inevitably caught and passed within a couple of minutes. Try as I might, I couldn't catch him on the very long descent, and was now uncomfortably hot in my coat and buff! Ended up a good 50 seconds behind, in second place at the finishing tape back in Aber village. I knew my time was a PB for the course, but suspect the time given was too fast: I didn't properly record my time but I don't think it was sub 1:50 as the results suggest. A great event as always, a real mountain race in one of my favourite areas.

Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Snowdon run

Peaks: Yr Wyddfa (1065)
An opportunistic post-work run up Snowdon from Llanberis. After meeting in Lixwm, five of us set off from the town at 6.45pm in unexpectedly benign conditions of high cloud and high humidity. The initial climb up the metalled road seemed even steeper than it does in the race, but the tourist route soon levels off to give superbly enjoyable running up to the steepening at Allt Moses. We split into two groups, with Jez, Neil and I keeping a steady jog going throughout the steep climb to Clogwyn station and up the nasty scree beyond. I always think this is the crux of the race: indeed I tend to walk parts of this section. The forecast, it became clear, was completely wrong. Instead of 100m cloud base and steady drizzle, we found superb conditions of light shifting mist and a gathering cloud inversion. Quite spectacular as we crested the steep hill to the summit ridge, with mist peeling away from Clogwyn y Garnedd. It's been a while since I've been up Snowdon in the evening: it's always a reminder of what a great peak it is. Nobody on top, just a few runners around, and tremendous views down to Glaslyn and over to Crib Goch. A huge cloud bank to the east: with Cader, Aran and Berwyn visible above. Swirling mist over Nantlle but, again, the summits were above the cloud. We were up in just over an hour, spend 15 minutes or so enjoying the scenery before the cold wind sent us scampering down for an exhilarating descent to Llanberis where we met up with Rich and Rob just after 8.30pm. We even had time for a quick recovery pint in Ysgeifiog.

Monday, June 25, 2012

Craig y Bere climbing

Crag/Peak: Craig y Bere, Mynydd Mawr
Routes: Angel Pavement (HS 4b:led p.1,3,5), Pinnacle Ridge* (D:sol), Sentries Ridge (D:sol)
Another one of those rather obscure mountaineering routes that has lurked somewhere in the recesses of my mind for 25 years or so. I was last up at Craig y Bere 12 years ago for a mass ascent (including Kate) of Sentries Ridge. It's a strange place, rather disconcerting with its crumbling pinnacles and shifting scree: hence the gap between visits. But when I climbed the Eastern Arete of Y Garn a couple of years ago, I looked again at Angel Pavement from the other side of the valley: it's a tremendous line, an obvious weakness which takes a linked sequence of slabby gangways to negotiate the most impressive and coherent section of the cliff. Quite humid as Mick and I walked in from Planwydd, mercifully dry after weeks of unsettled weather. A steep early climb leads to a good contouring path towards the unappealing looking first pitch. I led, finding it a tad better than it appeared. Not much gear, as expected, but no technical difficulty and it could actually be adequately protected with an inventive use of small cams. Scrappy ground led to slabs, then a short juggy wall to a grass ledge. All the rock needs testing, but most of the loose stuff has been shed over the years. Mick's second pitch was better, and very photogenic as he traversed out above Nantlle to gain a good clean slab. This gives interesting easy climbing and another long 46m pitch to a small ledge below the obvious wet overhang. I then led the crux third pitch, supposedly 4b. Damp slabs below the overhang lead to a tapering of the slab line as it narrows and steepens to form a rib. The crux moves are so brief as to be barely noticeable: a steep pull, with abundant gear (for once) leads to big holds and broken ground - emerging at another small ledge in a superb position looking across to the Nantlle ridge and over the rest of Craig y Bere. The fourth pitch takes a broken rib to nasty grass slopes then a shattered corner, while my short fifth was even more scrappy. Very much a climb to go to with a mountaineering head on: it does have a little whiff of seriousness for the grade, but is so technically simple that it just adds to the route. The climbing may not be especially satisfying, but it is a rewarding experience, and I proposed to continue the day in the same vein. We both descended a steep scree gully beyond the finishing pinnacle, exposed initially, then merely awkward. Mick left for home after lunch at the sacs, and I bombed up the first section of Pinnacle Ridge, finding it rather too loose for comfort. At the upper headwall, I sneaked off down a side groove and headed over to Sentries Ridge. Mick had taken most of the gear, so with a light sack I raced up the ridge in just over 10 minutes. I'd forgotten what a good scramble it is: one of the best in Snowdonia, marred only by its escapeability. I took the gendarmes direct, moving left over the gully for the highest, most crumbly one before realising my error and regaining the crest. Not particularly loose nowadays, certainly compared to Pinnacle Ridge. I ran to the top of Mynydd Mawr and enjoyed five minutes total peace before running flat out back to the car via the lovely curving grassy ridge above Craig y Bere. Great views down to Cwellyn and great downhill running throughout.

Sunday, June 24, 2012

Riverbank Race

Race: Riverbank Race/Eddie Faure Memorial '10k' (Rhuddlan)
Time/Position: 33:20 (1st from 57)
I've wanted to do this event for a while, as it starts so close to the ancestral home, but didn't really expect to be pulling into the lead after the first short lap around some fields led to a long flat stretch along the gravel cob which lines the River Clwyd. Billed as a multi-terrain race, this was a new version of the course which soon left the cob - and escaped a sharp headwind - to traverse a series of fields before gaining a muddy embankment which led back to Rhuddlan. This felt more like a traditional cross-country race at times, after the rain we've had. I hadn't wanted to take the lead so early, but found myself completely committed after less than a mile. As the headwind turned into a tailwind I relaxed on the first lap then tried to push it a bit into the headwind on the cob second time round. It was all a rather novel experience, as I have only ever led races briefly in the past, so I just concentrated on not panicking and maintaining a reasonable gap on the second lap. After all the recent running in the hills, the mud was no real obstacle, but the flat pounding is always a shock in summer so it was with some relief that I entered the caravan site for the final time. My first ever overall win in any sort of race, after 14 years of running, and as such a rather surprising day out. The race certainly wasn't 10k, as this would have been a PB on a tough off-road course. Somebody said it was 5.8 miles, which sounds about right.

Wednesday, June 20, 2012

Hotfoot up Famau

Race: Hotfoot up Famau fell race (3.5m/1500ft/AS)
Time/Position: 38.13 (5th from 96 [2nd V40])
It's that time of year again: the races come thick and fast, with little recovery between events. Fortunately, this splendid little outing - the first of Martin's summer series - is so short that you don't get much time to feel sorry for yourself. As it happened, I felt a lot better than I have done recently, taking a few seconds off my previous best time, and really enjoyed what was probably my 4th or 5th time in the event. With this race now attracting 100 or so runners, the manic start up the path from Penbarras gets harder and harder each year and I was well down the field for the dash down into the valley - the path is so narrow that it's hard to overtake. It's this early plunge that makes the race unique though, and by the time we gained the open slopes at the top of Moel y Gaer we started slowly passing a few of the fast starters. At last, I felt like I had some strength in my legs and enjoyed the soft peat of the steep descent to Nant y Ne. Kept it going quite well up the valley, although I was well behind the leading trio by now, and felt reasonably comfortable in the gully before maintaining my place on the long, flat-out descent.

Sunday, June 17, 2012

Ras y Berwyn

Race: Ras y Berwyn (13m/3500ft/AL)
Time/Position: 1:59:47 (11th from 98 [3rd V40])
The second race of this year's Welsh Championships and, after a disastrous performance at Mynydd Troed, it was important to at least get round this long course reasonably efficiently. All this was secondary to the fact that I was really looking forward to the race, as this area is notorious for its access problems, with this the first ever event taking in these very runnable peaks. Peter had done a great job of organisation. Indeed, we had reccied it with him in March. Since then, however, significant changes had been made to the route to assist nesting birds. So it was that we started from Llandrillo then headed up the delightfully runnable tracks south below Cefn Pen Lletty to eventually enter the open hillside and the inevitable, immediate bog: including two waist deep river crossings. Weeks of rain rendered the subsequent long climb via Cwm Tywyll to the top of Cadair Berwyn an energy sapping trudge. I got caught by Simon E and three others as I crested the summit, now sunny, in 52m. This helped as I tried to stick with the group for the superb running south along the ridge towards the climb up Moel Sych. The ridge then curves east, the highlight of the event, with great views down into the wild cwm containing Llyn Lluncaws. Good descending, though awkward, down to the lake before a tough climb back up to ridge at Moel yr Ewig. I began to catch the group here, and went ahead during the awkward contouring east of the main Berwyn ridge. A tough climb up to CP5, surprised that the route didn't take in Tomle (as the reccie did), before enjoying the other big highlight of the old Ffordd y Saeson down to Bwlch Maen Gwynedd. I struggled a bit on the final climb up Cadair Bronwen but, to my surprise, made up some ground on the superb long descent over Moel Pearce. This gives exhilarating flat-out running down wet trenches, followed by streaming paths and finally the rough road from Moel Ty Uchaf back down to Llandrillo. I measured my length once, but no harm done, and gained one place to just dip inside two hours. A superb addition to the calendar.

Tuesday, June 12, 2012

Up the Beast fell race

Race: Up the Beast (4.5m/1500ft/AS)
Time/Position: 37:33 (6th from 74 [2nd V40])
An unmissable local event, always a pleasure, despite the fact that it is possibly the steepest fell race in North Wales for short sections (it's still dubbed a 'trail race' in certain places, amusingly enough). I thoroughly enjoyed the initial run through the woods, and the first steep scramble through the limestone crags that gives this race its 'character', but blew comprehensively on the final run back through the woods. Might have been tired after last week's activities in the Highlands, but can't really use that as an excuse - the main issue is that I'm losing time on all the descents at the moment. Simon E went past on Bryn Alyn, but I managed to stay with him until the descent of the Beast when he pulled away. I rather hoped I might catch him on the run-in, but instead I slowed to a crawl and was passed by another runner to end up 6th. I was three places down on last year, well over half a minute slower.

Saturday, June 09, 2012

A'Chralaig

Peaks: A'Chralaig (1120m)
Area: Cluanie, Lochalsh
I had time for a very quick outing on our journey back home from Glenelg. This probably wasn't the ideal choice, as it was too close to the start of the long drive, but I thought the weather might be worse further south. Kate and the kids had a drink at the Cluanie Inn while I treated A'Chralaig as one big training blast. In this respect, at least, it was ideally suited: a big brute of a hill with an unrelenting steep climb from the road NE to gain the surprisingly long and enjoyable south ridge. I managed to run the vast majority of this, having enjoyed a rest day on Skye yesterday (apart from a walk with E up the lower summit of Sgurr na Coinnich above Kylerhea). Indeed, I really enjoyed the gentler running up the long ridge. I hadn't quite appreciated the sheer size of this hill, much higher than the South Glen Shiel ridge opposite, and took 40 minutes to reach the cairn from the road. Clag on top, sadly: I would have been better off waiting until further south for my outing after all. I'd promised Kate I'd be back at Cluanie in around an hour, so pelted flat out down the ridge - superbly exhilarating with the mist clearing and some sunshine peaking through, revealing the Inn way below, framed in front of Thursday's peaks. The entire descent gave wonderful downhill running and I was back at the pub about 25m after leaving the summit. A long drive home to flood-hit Wales followed, sorry to be leaving after another tremendous Highland week of perfect weather.

Thursday, June 07, 2012

South Glen Shiel ridge

Peaks: Creag a'Mhaim (947m), Druim Shionnach (987m), Aonach air Chrith (1021m), Maol Chinn Dearg (981m), Sgurr Coire na Feinne (902m), Sgurr an Doire Leathain (1010m), Sgurr an Lochain (1004m)
Area: Glen Shiel, Lochalsh
After a rest yesterday, pottering around the brochs and coastline of Glenelg, another early start this morning saw me preparing to dash along the South Glen Shiel Ridge. This was the scene of my abortive traverse on Sunday, when I simply ran out of time. This morning, however, I was a bit more relaxed, having arranged to meet the family at the Cluanie Inn for lunch. Contrary to the forecast, the weather had remained superb and, even better, a cloud inversion seemed on the cards as I set off from Cluanie in amazing conditions of mist and sunshine. The old road to Tomtoun is very runnable, albeit 6k or more in length, and I set off at a brisk jog watching tendrils of mist drape A'Chralaig and the other big peaks north of Loch Cluanie. I entered the mist at the road's highpoint, and viz dropped instantly to a matter of a few feet. This made identifying the correct path tricky, and I wasted some time ensuring I was on the right route before continuing to run upwards in a bid to pop out of the mist. I did so around the 500m mark. So began an enchanting few hours as the valley cloud and light wisps of higher mist formed a beautiful foreground to the distant views down to Ben Nevis. The nearby peaks of Spidean Malaich and Gleouraich were even more photogenic, however. A thick sea of cloud remained in all the valleys as I crested the summit of Creag a'Mhaim in 75m from the road. Good running then led to an unexpected narrowing of the ridge up to Druim Shoinnach - a fine ascent with nice views of the lochans in the cwm south. Some mist on the summit, which melted away as I continued down the grassy ridge towards the day's highpoint at Aonach air Chrith. Stunning clarity of light now: the cloud inversion still present, deep blue sky above, this most famous of ridge traverses completely to myself. Indeed, I was perhaps the only person witnessing the inversion at this hour of the day? I set a reasonable pace, jogging the descents and flat sections, but had no real need to rush: just as well, given these very special conditions. The peaks along this ridge do not have a strong individual identity but the route is tremendously enjoyable. Some surprisingly narrow and rocky sections at times, and great views over to Loch Quioch and back across to the Five Sisters. I took in the smaller summit of Sgurr Coire na Feinne before ploughing on to the much higher Sgurr an Doire Leathain. Great views across to Sgurr an Lochain, easily the most distinctive peak on the ridge, towards which I now made my way. After a quick bite on the summit, I picked out the most comfortable way down to Glen Shiel (having done the remainder of the ridge last Sunday). I went down the very well defined, steep east ridge, which levels off lower down to a moraine-like grassy ridge just below the lake. A nice little corrie. I then contoured around boggy ground to pick up some deer tracks across the very steep spur coming down from Doire Leathain. All this was saving me a mile or two of road running! From here, it was a relatively simple matter to pick my way down to the road through the lower conifers, emerging east of the Lapain car park. Superb crystal clear views of the Five Sisters as all clouds melted away, yet again. The run back to Cluanie along the road was not too bad, and I made it back before midday.

Tuesday, June 05, 2012

Five Sisters of Kintail

Peaks: Sgurr na Ciste Dubh (1027), Sgurr na Carnach (1002), Sgurr Fhuaran (1067), Sgurr nan Saighead (929), Beinn Bhuidhe (869)
Area: Glen Shiel, Lochalsh
The forecast had long been predicting a change in the weather for this afternoon. I wasn't too bothered, having already enjoyed three superb outings, but thought I'd make an early start in advance of the supposedly incoming front. Furthermore, I didn't want to compromise the family holiday, so left very early in low temperatures (-1C!). Began ploughing up the slopes to the Bealach na Lapain before 5am, although in my haste took a path too far left that had obviously been beaten out by munro baggers as it quickly contoured left to finally gain the ridge at the col between Spainteach and Sgurr na Ciste Dubh. This was annoying, as I wanted to do the full ridge, but as I emerged at the small col into the sunshine all was forgiven. Frost decorated the ridge, and the low sun provided wonderful views in all directions. A light morning mist boiled up from Glen Affric, lending a magical atmosphere to the traverse. Tendrils of mist lapped up the ridge to the north, while views south to the Saddle and Sgritheall remained crystal clear. I scampered up to the fine rocky summit of Ciste Dubh (1hr from road) to enjoy the show with a breakfast banana. Onward prospects were superb, as this is undoubtedly one of the finest ridges in the UK. Sgurr Fhuaran, in particular, is a cracking, dominant peak. Some short scrambly sections down to the pronounced col below Sgurr na Carnach, which gives a short but steep ascent and is another fine viewpoint and pronounced individual summit. The light mist was still lending a magical quality to the traverse as I embarked on the long mild scramble to the top of Fhuaran, still only just after 6am with the entire ridge to myself. I took every rock step as direct as possible to maximise enjoyment, but it was necessary to seek out difficulties. As the highest peak on the ridge, so obvious from the Mam Ratagan pass, Fhuaran is a marvellous viewpoint, some say the best in Scotland. For me, the view down Loch Duich towards the Cuillin was most notable, but light mist showed off the remote Affric peaks to perfection. Distant views to Ben Nevis and Liathach also impressed. I could have descended from here, but opted to prolongue the traverse by descending the fine, steep ridge and sticking to the crest to give some unexpected but good scrambling up Sgurr nan Saighead - which has a distinctive outline, throwing down a series of impressive ribs on the Affric side. Looked like some good winter gullies hereabouts. From Saighead I continued over the subsidiary peak of Beinn Bhuidhe. This took me even further down Glen Shiel but I was enjoying the ridge so much I didn't want it to end. I opted to take the ridiculously steep direct descent direct to Glen Shiel from here. It was indeed direct, but a completely trackless blend of tussocks and heather - an unpleasant echo of 'time-saving' navigation tactics on mountain marathons. Once in the glen I forded the river and hopped over the fence to the road. Cue a very long run back along the road to my car - at least 10k, maybe more. I was back at the cottage in Glenelg before 10.30am, in time for brunch.

Monday, June 04, 2012

Beinn Sgritheall

Peaks: Beinn Sgritheall (974)
Area: Glenelg, Lochalsh
After rockpooling on the shores of Loch Hourn yesterday, it was an easy decision to drive back to magical Arnisdale for a family ascent of this distinctive and notoriously steep peak. I doubted whether we would all make the top, but thought the bealach would make a satisfactory viewpoint while I ran up the main peak and later took the keener E up the smaller Corbett. The weather was perfect again as we set off from this most tranquil of hamlets to weave up towards the very steep spur that leads up the bealach. Loch Hourn twinkling below: the views opening out over Knoydart, allowing me to relive my memorable trip there back in 1998, based around Sourlies bothy. The children did not enjoy the steep ascent, but it levels off half-way up to a contouring path that leads into a perfect little hidden gorge. A perfect family lunch/play spot, so I continued upwards giving myself an hour to get back. Steep striding led to boggier ground near the pass, then even steeper scree slopes - unrelenting - to the lower subsidiary summit. Superb running along the easy ridge, with fabulous views of sea, loch and mountain down to Loch Hourn, over to Ladhar Bheinn, Sgurr na Ciche and the rest of Knoydart, and down to the mysterious northern corries of Sgritheall. Surely one of the best views in Scotland, which gets even better from the true summit: with the Cuillin, Rum, Eigg and Torridon dominant. Sadly, I had to tear myself away and pelted down the screes, tearing my innov-8s to shreds in the process. Steep running down the turfy sections led back to the gorge and a quick lunch before we all walked down the slopes to Arnisdale and a memorable coffee break at the eccentric Tea Shack in Corran. The views over Knoydart, and back up to Sgritheall, were even better from Corran as all the cloud gradually melted away.