Area: Metsovo, Greece
After leaving Meteora, we drove to Thessaloniki and had an urban final night. This morning, I did a swift 5k before a bougatsa breakfast and airport drop-off. Then, the longish drive to Metsovo, which exceeded my expectations. I had chosen it for my first two nights as perhaps the most accessible mountain town in the Pindos, the range which this solo week was intended to explore. But it was delightful, and with a spectacular wild cirque of peaks to the south which I didn't know much, if anything, about. Instead, my intention had been to head to peaks like Flega to the north. I realised after checking in to the characterful Hotel Bitouni (ideal for me) that these were too far away, but I'd got to Metsovo so efficiently (an amazing road from Thessaloniki) that I had time to kill. I found a little circuit above town which I could reach via a steep 3k track. This was part of the Ursus Trail in the tracks of the brown bear, but bears weren't my concern: sheepdogs were. However, I didn't expect an encounter within 10 minutes of setting out on the tamest (and only) marked trail of the week - but that is what happened. At the top of the track, I found the trail and set off, enjoying the relaxed and easy aperitif. Through the first section of woodland I reached a clearing and then came the incident: very loud barking from the trees up left and then four or five huge dogs pelting down the hill towards me, their metal chains dragging along the ground. Time stood still and I thought I would be set upon, but they didn't, just came very close. I could hear an occasional shout from a hidden shepherd and knew enough not to run. I quickened my pace with them snapping at my heels and eventually (but only after a few anxious minutes) the barks faded. After rounding the corner, though, I heard the barks start up again as if two of them had decided to have a second go. They got louder and louder until they were at my heels again! Properly scary, so I upped the pace again and when they faded for a second time, I ran, eating up the ground along the trail passing some side valleys with excellent views of the cirque to the south. That was it, fortunately, and the rest of the trail was tranquil although I was shaken and a little concerned about the feasibility of the rest of the trip given the tame, marked terrain I was on. A short climb through thick woodland gained an open summit with great views to the cirque and over to Flega and the rest further north. I was greatly looking forward to getting acquainted with all of it, and trotted down to the start of the circuit where I had a little rest admiring toads, frogs and lizards that had gathered round a little pond. I trotted down the track to Metsovo but had another canine encounter, this time passing a herd of goats with their 'guard'. who leapt into life and chased me down the track. I calmed down with a beer on the balcony looking out at the rooftops of Metsovo and the surrounding mountains. I refuelled with a local speciality, a kind of stifado with aubergine, veal and metsovo cheese, and a glass of retsina or two.
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