Area: Cairngorms
If the weather had been favourable for this trip, I would have headed north-west to the Fisherfield Forest for some of the remoter Munros. But being in the Cairngorms is a treat in itself and I still had unfinished business. Beinn Mheadhoin in particular is one of the remoter Scottish mountains so I decided to take a leisurely approach and really immerse myself in the heart of the range. As a result, there was no rush this morning: I fuelled up with a full breakfast from the Bothy in Braemar before buying very austere provisions for the trip. My basic plan was the Glen Derry round, which I would have been able to do quite easily in a day, but I thought I would relax instead and have a short stay at the Hutchison Memorial bothy (I had my tent too). Just before midday, after coffee and an extra feed at the Linn of Dee, I set off for Derry Lodge by bike. I did the same two years ago and the scenery here is really beautiful. As ever, the great attraction of the Cairngorms is that its highlights are all hidden from view, you have to make an effort to get to them and that precludes too many people from spoiling it all. In addition, I love the contrast between the Arctic peaks and the gentle lower valleys which are probably closer to the natural biome than most other parts of the UK. Derry Lodge is a great example, all remnants of the Caledonian pine forest. I left my bike and then enjoyed the lovely path through the pines which leads to, again, the closest thing to a natural treeline in the UK, with some montane forest and dwarf trees above. The weather was lovely, blue sky with intermittent cloud, but bigger banks west and north as per the forecast. Above the treeline the path got steep for a while as it rounds the spur Carn Crom but this gives way to beautiful pink granite plateaux and then a contouring path with Derry Caingorm a pleasant cone ahead. Soon the route takes on its high Cairngorm character as it crosses various blasted tundra boulder fields and Ben Macdui and Cairn Toul become visible. A really enjoyable ascent, with a big boulder field leading to the summit. Tremendous views over Glen Luibeg to the high Cairngorms, lots of snow under blue skies. After this the day got even better with a contouring path over to the shoulder below Creagan a'Choire Etchachan and then to the lip of Coire Etchachan itself, an Arctic scene and the real heart of the Cairngorms. This microenvironment at the centre of the range is really precious, and does feel much closer to northern Norway than other parts of Scotland. Loch Etchachan glistened in the sunshine, framed by snowfields and crags, but (after a glissade down a big snowfield) it was far too windy to pitch my tent there so I stowed it for the short slog up Beinn Mheadhoin. This was almost as easy and enjoyable as Derry Cairngorm, through the same pink granite boulderfields and up to the wind blasted plateau at the top, reminiscent of Ben Avon with its granite tors. The SW top has stunning views down to the top of Loch Avon where multiple torrents clatter down between big crags from the Ben Macdui plateau: undoubtedly one of the finest places in the British mountains, and another Arctic scene. The top involves a little scramble up the tor which I had to myself (although there were a few people about on this Bank Holiday Monday). I retraced my steps back to the Etchachan outflow to collect my stuff and then ambled down the rocky path into tight Coire Etchachan, where the tiny Hutchison bothy came into view on a patch of greenery. Behind, the crag which houses some classic rock climbs. I took ownership of one of the two 'beds' in the bothy although it really is tiny. I managed a quick bath in the stream that comes down from Derry Cairngorm and passed a pleasant solo bothy evening with my austere dining options (no stove).
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