Capenhurst Border League

Race: Capenhurst 5.5m (border league race 2)
Time/Position: 30:44 (19th from 307 [5th V40])
Although a couple of places down on the first race this season, I was reasonably pleased with this effort. I needed a top 20 place, because I will miss the next race in December and have to wait until February for round four, so it was important to get a decent position here given how competitive the category is looking. Went off pretty fast and I never really felt comfortable, struggling to maintain the pace even before the second lap. It's a familiar course, though, and I knew I could keep it going on the second lap if necessary! Felt like a strong field, particularly in my category, with the time perhaps just equating to sub-28m 5 mile.

Clwydian Hills race

Race: Clwydian Hills fell race (10m/3000ft)
Time/Position: 1:24:09 (25th from 180)
A dispiriting performance, although the reasons for it are not hard to fathom. It was a very strong field, a championship race, and I knew I didn't have sufficiently strong climbing legs to get anywhere near the pace as I have done very little running in the hills since the Breidden fell race. Indeed, I was torn between doing this and the Abergele 5 mile road race. I would probably have done better on the latter, but it would have been a cowardly cop-out given the crisp sunshine and fine conditions. I've always felt that this race is the most gruelling in the Clwydians, with the possible exception of the Lletty, largely because it is so relentless. I struggled throughout really, but particularly on the long climb back up Moel Dywyll from the Vale side. I went reasonably well up the gully to the top of Moel Famau, but couldn't catch a big group of runners on the descent. This group of 7 or 8 stayed a frustrating minute ahead, which meant I finished well down the field. My time was just a minute quicker than 2008, when the gully was choked with deep snow.

Halloween Hellraiser race

Race: Halloween Hellraiser Multi-Terrain, Cheshire (9m XC)
Time/Position: 57:49 (6th from 196 [1st V40])
In ordinary circumstances, I would probably have done the OMM this weekend. A family weekend was more appealing than the long trip to Dartmoor, however, so I took the opportunity to do a longer cross-country/multi-terrain race for a change. The race is an excellent loop of the Cheshire countryside around Nantwich and Crewe, with lots of very varied running over fields, bogs, gravel roads, housing estates, short hills, a quarry and a graveyard. I gradually moved through the field throughout the race, gaining places all the way, and felt quite comfortable which was pleasing on a slightly longer race than I've been used to recently. The length and style of race, combined with the different location (which means different clubs and different runners, as with the Breidden Hill race) meant that this was therefore a pleasing addition to the 'palmares': I was first Vet again, and also picked up a prize for 6th overall (although neither was given during the prize-giving due to a cock-up!).

Caernarfon Border League

Race: Caernarfon 10k (Border League round 1)
Time/Position: 35:52 (17th from 231 [2nd V40])
Although I ran reasonably well on this, the most scenic and interesting of the Border League races, I was left feeling a bit disappointed with my time and position. In the past, I've found that when you move up a level in the league, it has the frustrating effect of losing you several places in the last 500m, when stronger runners put in a better finishing kick. This was the case today: I was up in 12th or 13th place at 5k, as the race moves inland after the seafront section. This is the furthest up the field I've ever been in the league, so I was inevitably hanging on a bit for the hilly final half. I managed to keep it going before being passed by two runners at 8k, then two more in the last 200m. Over a minute slower than my Cardiff time, although it was enough for 2nd Vet overall. Crystal clear views over Snowdonia and the sea, and I always enjoy the finish past the castle even if I am struggling.

Breidden Hills fell race

Race: Breidden Hills fell race, Powys (7m/2300ft/AM)
Time/Position: 1:02:12 (9th from 117 [1st V40])
The morning mist gradually cleared as we set off on this long-established race. I've wanted to do it for some time, but was still surprised by just how enjoyable, scenic and varied the area is. A gradual climb on forest roads leads round to fields (briefly crossing the English border) and the first sharp climb up to the ridge of Middletown Hill. Superb running along this, across a series of little grassy peaklets, leads to a long descent to a road. Then another climb, more gentle and runnable, leads to the top of Moel y Golfa, before a surprisingly awkward rocky descent. Steep and exhilarating running, with great views over the surrounding countryside (now sunny), and I managed to pick up some places on the next wooded section, marked 'New Pieces' on the map - presumably benefiting from recent 10k speed. These wooded undulations go on for a while through Breidden Forest, muddy in places, before the final steep climb to the top of Rodney's Pillar (obvious from the main Welshpool road below). The final descent from here is great: rocky at first, then fast, then very steep. Simon flew past me on the last steep hill, and we finished 7 seconds apart after all those hills and an hour of racing. I'd done enough to win first V40, though, which was surprising but nice: in a different area with different clubs competing. The home-made post-race food at the prize-giving in Criggion village hall was also excellent!

Flintshire 10k

Race: Flintshire 10k
Time/Position: 35:28 (5th from 324 [1st V40])
Well down on my Cardiff time, but this was a strange race which reminded me of the Gamelin fell race last June in that I ran most of it on my own - which has an inevitable effect on motivation levels! I moved into fifth as we started up the hill in heavy rain, and quite quickly pulled out a gap. But there was no way I could catch the much better runner in fourth, so I concentrated on keeping a decent pace going. There was nobody in front or behind, and I stayed relatively comfortable throughout. As a result, it was all rather enjoyable and I was glad I'd chosen this rather than any of the other races taking place on the same day. After the finish, I jogged back round to run the last 3k with Kate. Ended up with three trophies at the prize giving (5th, 1st V40, 2nd team): a bit of a contrast to missing third place by tiny margins in my last two races!

Rab Mountain Marathon

Race: Rab Mountain Marathon, day 2
Peaks: Gray Crag, Thornthwaite Crag, Mardale Ill Bell
Area: Eastern Lake District
Time/Position: 170 pts in 4:56 (10th from 271 [4th Vet])
I decided to throw caution to the wind today, given my overnight position. Started off at 8am, under cloudy skies, and jogged comfortably up Bannerdale back to Angle Tarn. It seemed pretty obvious to go for the big value checks around High Street again, although it is distinctly possible that a more subtle approach bagging more accessible lower value checks further north might have been more productive: certainly, the end result suggests that was the case. That said, the route choice felt right today from the off: I never questioned it (which is sometimes the case). From Angle Tarn, I headed up the ridge before contouring awkwardly to Hayeswater for a CP before the very steep climb up Gray Crag. This wasn't as bad as I'd expected, and it was satisfying to dib the 40 pointer in the mist on the summit. Thick mist and cold wind meant I felt the need to play it safe for the crossing of the plateau - going to the top of Thornthwaite Crag and navigating across the various paths (which I know from past experience to be confusing in mist) to the easterly route to Mardale Ill Bell. The wind tore a big hole in the clouds as I descended, superb views down Kentmere and superb running. This got even better as I descended the obvious spur from Ill Bell down to Blea Water. On my own, apart from one other well-placed runner who had pulled ahead after a chat. Some scrambling, a great rocky descent. Feeling good, I ran down to Haweswater and then faced a classic mountain marathon dilemma: whether I had the time/legs to reascend to 600m+ to gain a distant check in Randale Beck. The ethos of the day was to go for it, so I did, finding the Coast to Coast path a great help. I met up with the other chap again, and we ran together over the spur due east to pick up the Haweswater track at Whelter Beck after some awkward terrain and a tricky descent. This was always going to be the escape route, but I ended up cutting it finer than expected. It all culminated in a desperate race-pace dash for the final 6k, sprinting up the path to Aika Sike and getting a 10 pointer at Burnbanks before a final 2k sprint to the finish: 4 minutes to spare, 405 points. This was the hardest day I've had on a mountain marathon, in that I pushed it and maximised the time available: far more so than yesterday. So it was a surprise to find that I had missed third place by 3 points! That said, it was a fantastic event again and I was even more surprised to have the legs for the event, given that I'd spent the last two months training for entirely different purposes.

Rab Mountain Marathon

Race: Rab Mountain Marathon, day 1
Peaks: Branstree, Adam Seat, High Street, Angletarn Pike, Beda Fell
Area: Eastern Lake District
Time/Position: 235 pts in 5:45 (9th from 271 [3rd Vet])
My favourite event seemed better than ever this year. For the third year in succession the weather was good, and the location this year was really tremendous - proper mountain terrain, albeit weirdly similar to the Saunders MM in July which I also did. After a cold night in Dan's van at the HQ in Bampton, I started solo in superb sunny weather from Drybarrows, making the usual hash of the first checkpoint as I adapted to the scale! Aika Sike was familiar from July, and I ran down this to a road section up to Naddle Bridge and Swindale. The outline of my chosen route had already formed, and I forded the stream to bash up a horrible vegetated gill (Mere Sike?). When the gorse began to draw blood from my face, I moved on to the Hare Shaw plateau! After dibbing a hidden CP, I got my running legs and ploughed across the plateau, picking an efficient line down to a 30 pointer in Guerness Gill. The long climb out and back round to Hopegill Beck was not as bad as I'd feared, and even the climb up Branstree went well with some food. Great views over High Street from the summit of Branstree confirmed my decision to go for the 40 pointer at Blea Tarn, mainly because I'd never been there before and it looked great. An easy run down to Gatesgarth pass, familiar from the SLMM, then up Adam Seat towards Harter Fell. I then picked my way down very steep terrain to Small Water (lovely spot) and contoured round to Blea Tarn on a superb, almost level trod. Noone else around, and I think this good route choice on this section gained me a lot of time and places. A lovely but tiring climb up the well-defined ridge of Long Stile gained the top of High Street and a cold wind. Great running down the busy ridge, before a very steep plunge towards Hayeswater and another crucial high-value check. My slow start was paying dividends now, and I kept a good pace down the valley to the climb beside Brock Crags to lumpy terrain overlooking Patterdale. A long, slower climb past scenic Angle Tarn led to a pass through the peaklets then a great runnable ridge all the way above Martindale to Beda Fell and the final check: the overnight camp visible below. I had enough time to pick up another 5 points before a leisurely jog to camp. The whole day felt very comfortable, so I was surprised to find myself 3rd vet overnight. The night was rather cold, to say the least, and I found myself re-thinking my insulation policy on several occasions!

Peak '40@40' climbs

Crag: Windgather, Western Peak
Routes: Rib and Slab (M:Sol), Buttress Two Gully (M:sol), Leg Stump (D:sol), Middle and Leg (D:sol), Centre (HVD:sol), Broken Cracks (D:sol), High Buttress Arete (D:sol), High Buttress Arete Direct (HVD), Corner Crack (VD:sol), Toe Nail (VD:sol), The Corner (D:sol), The Corner Middle Buttress (M:sol), Wall Climb (HVD:sol), Chockstone Chimney (D:sol), Small Wall (S 4b:sol), The Staircase (M:sol), Red Nose Route (D:sol), Bay Wall (S:sol), Aged Crack (S 4a:sol), Face Route 2 (D:sol), Face Route 1 (HVD:sol), Overhanging Arete (VD:sol), Groove (M:sol), Left Triplet Crack (M:sol), Discontinuous Rib (M:sol), Side Face (S 4a:sol), First's Arete (VD:sol)
Crag: Castle Naze, Western Peak
Routes: Double Crack (VD:sol), The Arete (HS 4b:sol), Crack 1 (D:sol), Crack 2 (D:sol), Crack 3 (D:sol), Pinnacle Crack (VD:sol), Pinnacle Arete (VD:sol), Sheltered Crack (VD:sol), Slanting Crack* (S:sol), V Chimney (D:sol), South Buttress (D:sol), Boomerang (M:sol), Overhanging Chimney (HVD:sol)
I had a vague idea to do 40 climbs in a day as the easiest method of marking my 40th year. The other planned options - 40 competitive races and 40 peaks in a day - are a tad more challenging, but still on the schedule. However, not being a gritstone 'native' I hadn't realised quite how quickly you can bag a large number of easy routes, having always concentrated on proper climbing whenever I'd visited the region in the past. Actually, 40 is a straightforward target, perhaps 100 routes would have been more meaningful as a 'challenge'. Windgather, the easiest crag in the Peak above a very pleasant valley on the edge of Cheshire, was an obvious starting point. It was early morning, with a cold breeze and no sunshine, so chilly fingers ensued. But I still enjoyed the rapid movement over these very simple routes, particularly the charming and well positioned High Buttress Arete, for which the sun came out as I moved round the arete onto the upper wall. I also enjoyed the juggy Aged Crack, and other fun routes scattered across the buttresses, particularly First's Arete, Wall Climb and the misnamed Chockstone Chimney. I found that I had bagged well over 20 routes in less than 90 minutes, and drove over to Castle Naze for a break. I'd never been to this venue before, unlike Windgather, and thought the proper longer routes look well worth a future visit. Not an option today, though. Instead, numerous short routes around the Pinnacle, and further right, allowed me to reach 40 routes quite easily - about 2.5 hours in total. As a result, I had enough time to go to work, then do the full run up Moel Famau later on.

Cardiff 10k

Race: Cardiff 10k (Welsh Championships)
Time/Position: 34:45 (45th from 3000 [4th v40])
I'd had around five weeks to prepare for this, having been selected to represent North Wales Masters in the Welsh Championships in early August. I was obviously keen to justify my selection, but I'd only had time for three intervals sessions after a summer running exclusively in the hills. However, those three sessions plus my performance in the Capenhurst 5k rather surprisingly suggested that I could get close to a sub-35 minute PB. So I was reasonably confident, and ended up enjoying the weekend and the very different experience of a championship race (my debut at this level of racing after 200 races and 12 years of running!). I paced it quite well through Bute Park, in warmish sunny conditions, deliberately laying down a 15 second buffer in the first 3k then keeping to 3:30 target pace. Some of the route was familiar from the Cardiff Marathon which I did in 2006. I got into a decent group of 7 or 8 runners, with Jez, for around 1k through Llandaff fields at halfway, before the group broke up a bit. The final 3k were then inevitably pretty tough, but the long finishing straight was a great help. Obviously a very strong field, with a home international meet combined with the regional and national championships. Pleased to put in a decent performance in my regional debut, but slightly gutted to miss both the Welsh Champs bronze medal and the 3rd vet in the overall race by five seconds!

Llantisilio mountain run

An excellent run in the hills with Neil and Jez. After six races in August alone, it was very pleasant to be able to enjoy a relaxing long social run for once. We'd come up with the idea of combining the Ponderosa fell race with the Moel y Gamelin fell race into one longish (15 mile, 8 peak) outing, and this seemed a good day for it. The weather was grim as we set off up Cyrn y Brain: low cloud, driving cold wind, light rain. Still, it improved slightly as we contoured the hillside above Eglwyseg, with the occasional hint of a view, before ploughing through the bogs that are so energy sapping on the race. The climb from the bottom of this valley up Moel y Faen via the Ponderosa is obviously pretty long, but reasonably gentle. From here, it stayed windy as we traversed the ridge over Gamelin, Moel y Gaer, and Morfydd to emerge near Bwlch y Groes. The long moorland section overlooking Berwyn allowed for more relaxed conversation before we began the tiring haul back to the ridge and back over the summits of Gamelin and Faen (2:25 for the round at conversational pace).

Acheron, Craig Cywarch

Crag: Craig Llywellyn/North Buttress, Craig Cywarch
Route: Acheron (HVS 4c,4c,4c,4b,5a:led p.2,4)
This route is generally described as a 'magnificent mountaineering expedition' and it is difficult to improve on that. We'd been so impressed with Cywarch during our previous trip in April that we were both very keen to sample the larger, more atmospheric cliffs along the north-eastern edge of the escarpment. Tucked away up a side valley, Acheron takes the most obvious feature - an enormous 150m rib running the full height of the cliff - indirectly via an intricate and wonderfully varied sequence of pitches. Rain was forecast for mid-afternoon, but we judged that last week's dry weather would allow for an enjoyable ascent before it arrived. Vic led up the slabby first pitch, with one tricky move over an overlap. I then led the excellent second, up a slanting groove with good gear to a memorable traverse on fine juggy holds across the right wall to gain a slabby nose. Up this to a distinctly unpleasant heather ledge which led right to the belay. The third pitch was just as good: a nice slab leads diagonally left to the arete, before a superbly positioned groove, steep but with huge holds, leads to another juggy traverse left to the gully. I led the fourth, which was similar to the second, although shorter and easier. Again, a steep crack with excellent gear led to a guano covered mini-cave. Then a semi hand-traverse below a bulge on splendid sharp holds leads back right to the rib and a fine belay. Vic led the crux 5a pitch: an awkward and steep chimney which led to a smooth open groove, tricky bridging, before easier and more broken climbing up a series of vegetated grooves and ribs led to the final short wall. A memorable route, with excellent non-technical but always interesting climbing, which is improved immeasurably by the wonderfully isolated position in this beautiful tranquil valley. The adventure continues with the descent down Llwybr Llewellyn, a broad but very vegetated shelf leading back to the cwm. This was a tiring struggle through thick heather and ferns, and I began to feel the effects of last night's run up Moel Famau. Plans to continue up Doom were shelved due to light rain (which soon became heavier) and the need to get home before 5pm, so we left before 3pm.

East Face of Bristly Ridge

Crag: East Face, Bristly Ridge, Glyder Fach
Routes: Skyline Buttress (S 4a,4a,4a:led p.1,3), Great Tower Buttress (HS 4a,4b,-,4a,4a: led p.2,4,5)
Time was even more limited than usual today: I had five hours in total (car to car). So this was a rather frantic dash to bag the two best routes on the East Face of Bristly (excellent weather meant it would have been rude to have done anything except big mountain routes). We ploughed up to Bwlch Tryfan in perfect weather in less than 30 minutes and were soon getting our bearings on this rather complex crag. It bears many similarities with Tryfan's East Face, although a tad steeper, but I'd never climbed here before (neither have most climbers: it is far more tranquil). Skyline Buttress draws the eye from the Bwlch, looking quite impressive as its name suggests, and gives a nice climb up the left side of the face. I led up a rib to a ledge, then a pleasant slab gives access to a steeper rib which is climbed on good holds: superb rough and unpolished rock throughout. Alwyn then led the enjoyable and eye-catching broad groove above, which has a good traverse to gain an upper slab, where he belayed. I led up the slab on huge holds to merge with the final pitch: a surprisingly steep wall which leads to a brief knife-edge arete. We descended to the sacs, had a very quick bite, and ploughed on. Alwyn led the scrappy first pitch of Great Tower Buttress, up ribs to a ledge. I then led the jamming crack on pitch 2: steeply up to a small ledge, then better holds lead up right to a chimney which is climbed on its right wall. Quite strenuous for the grade. Alwyn led over a horizontal ridge, giving me the last two pitches which were both splendid. A really enjoyable open groove on superb holds leads to a belay ledge below the Great Tower. Then a wide groove, with a crack on the right wall, provides a meaty and excellent climax. Steep climbing on big holds emerging into the sunshine on the top of the Great Tower in the centre of Bristly Ridge. Much better than Skyline Buttress, a route with a lovely mountain ambience. I now had 30 minutes to get back to the car. Central Gully gave an interesting and enjoyable descent from atmospheric Tower Gap, and I then ran back - good pace - to the car in Ogwen in 20 minutes.

Moel Famau fell race

Race: Cilcain Mountain Race (5m/1237ft/AS)
Time/Position: 36:24 (10th from 179 [1st v40])
This was my seventh running of this long-established race. I certainly didn't think I'd ever be among the prizes when I was finishing 70th in 2003 or 87th in 2005 (although I did finish 8th in 2008). I was a bit lucky to win my category here, probably, but felt I put in a decent performance. The new course is a vast improvement on the old out-and-back route: no more collisions on the way down. The weather was perfect, with blue skies and tremendous clarity of light, although perhaps a little warm. I have never seen so many people watching a fell race, either, it almost felt like the atmosphere of an Alpine race as I arrived at the summit (a record for me - 20:50 from the village). I descended reasonably well, passing three and getting passed by two, and really enjoyed being able to open up a bit, feeling fairly sharp after recent speedwork and numerous short, fast races. The new route takes the Clwydian Hills race descent to emerge near the reservoir, and I managed to hold it together for the final climb back to the village. Pleased but rather surprised to be awarded the veteran's trophy at the showground later.

Capenhurst 5k

Race: Capenhurst 5k
Time/Position: 16:59 (13th from 187 [2nd v40])
Apart from a couple of plodded 5k races in 2006, including this one, I'd never raced at the distance before. It was also my first road race for several months, certainly my first short road race since April, so I was surprised and pleased to feel quite good throughout and to record a decent time after a summer running and racing on the hills (inevitably, I recorded a huge pb). Conditions were good, and this is well known as a competitive and fast race, which all helps. I slowed slightly between 3 and 4k, before picking it up well towards the finish when I realised sub-17 was on the cards. Only just made it! Won the v40 prize, which was pleasing on this fairly prestigious race, although in reality the 2nd runner overall was also in the category.

Castle Inn climbing

Crag: Castle Inn, Llysfaen
Routes: Mogadishu (f4+:sec), More Than This (f6a:sec), School Mam (f6a:led), Indian Summer (f6a:led), Route 1 (f5:sec), October Premiere (f5+:led), Conan the Libertarian (f6a:sec), Finale (f5:sec)
Plans to head up to the East Face of Bristly Ridge dissipated in torrential rain and -6C windchill a few minutes into the walk up Cwm Tryfan. A miserably wet drive back down the A55 saw us pull into Castle Inn in a last-ditch attempt to salvage something: the only possible option although it was still raining when Dale led the very scrappy new route on the left of the crag. Seconded the 6a arete, before leading the adjacent School Mam in strong winds and light rain. I think I last led this many years ago when it was a disjointed 6b, traversing in from the right. The new line is more direct, giving easier but better climbing. Despite the weather, I cruised up the route and found it surprisingly good, one of the best routes here: very nice moves up small but positive holds and edges lead to juggier climbing at the overlap. A heavy squally shower then drenched the crag, so we had lunch in the car before moving over to the newly developed Fine View Wall which was sheltered from the worst of the wind and rain. Indian Summer gives some very nice climbing, up small positive edges on very rough, excellent limestone (by UK standards). Sadly, it is a rather contrived line which is just a bit too close to the arete and the adjacent VS. Dale led Route 1, which I then went up for the 10th time! Finished with two new chossy routes on a hidden wall to the right, which were at least out of the wind. Decent workouts but a tad dirty.

Craig y Tonnau climbs, Moelwyn run

Crag: Craig y Tonnau, Cwm Lledr
Routes: Robbin's Nest (S:sh), Dentist's Slab (S:sh), Central Crack (VD:sh), Robbin's Right Hand (S:sh), Robbin's Reliant (VD:sh)
Rain was forecast to sweep westwards over Snowdonia by 9am, so I left Ffestiniog alone at 7am intent on a few routes and a good run before it arrived. The drizzle started before I reached Blaenau, predictably enough, and was torrential by the top of the Crimea. However, I persisted because it was so early, and turned off at the Roman Bridge for Blaenau Dolwyddelan. A very soggy walk got me to Craig y Tonnau, which is a strange little crag of wavy granular rock above a conifer forest, and I shunted a few routes in light rain with occasional heavier bursts. As expected, the rock was so rough and juggy, and the climbing so easy, that the weather didn't matter. No real lines here, apart from the enjoyable Central Crack which ascends the eponymous feature on huge holds, but the climbing is pleasant and certainly a good choice this morning. After about 50 minutes and five routes, the rain became unpleasantly heavy so I jogged back to the car and changed into running gear. I ran at a decent pace (21m) up the forest roads to Llynnau Diwaunydd, a beautiful and isolated spot, one of the finest lakes in Eryri. I was tempted to continue up Siabod, as the rain had stopped, but opted to extend the outing by running further down the lower valley to Coed Mawr instead because I wanted to get home early (it was still before 10am).

Craig y Clipiau climbs

Crag: Craig y Clipiau, Moelwynion
Routes: Mean Feet (HVS 4b,5a:led p.1), Double Criss (VS 4c,4c:led p.1), Vestix (HVS 5a:sec), Depression Direct (HS 4b:led), Jones's Crack (VS 4c+:sec)
A productive afternoon's cragging at this fine venue. I remember climbing numerous routes here in freezing weather in 1996, but we both had several gaps to fill - and did so pleasingly efficiently after a late start. Mean Feet is one of the best routes at Clipiau, and an obvious target. I led the easy first pitch, which takes a clear line of jugs in an increasingly fine position traversing left to a small stance. Vic then led the obvious steep groove, which gives awkward bridging using small but conveniently placed pockets to gain a ledge. Excellent steep climbing on very rough juggy rock leads to the top. I then led the long (30m) first pitch of Double Criss - a surprisingly committing start leads to an archetypal Moelwyn slab of bubbly rock which tapers up to the final steep wall. Gentle but absorbing climbing leads via a huge flake to a short quartzy slab and belay. Vic led the very short final pitch: a thrutchy crack made easier, although hardly more elegant, by smearing on the right wall to gain the obvious jug. We moved round to the west facing buttress, following the sun as it began to emerge from thick cloud. Vic wanted to lead Vestix, and it was a fine choice. A steep crack leads to a splendid hand traverse left to the arete before a distinct and strenuous crux move up the arete with very little for the feet gains a rest. Easier but very good climbing up the arete on superb rock to finish. The most obvious line hereabouts is Depression Direct, which I selected for my lead. An easy, rather ill-defined crack gains a blocky ledge before a splendid finish up the very obvious steep continuation crack. The crux is literally the final move. The clouds dissolved to give a superb evening, with the crag in perfect sunny conditions as Vic led the severely undergraded Jones's Crack. More like HVS 5a/b than the grade given. The first crack required a tenuous layaway move to small holds further right, and the continuation crack also had a tough move to gain easier climbing. Delightful evening sunshine, so we walked a little way into Cwm Orthin before retiring to Llan Ffestiniog.

Craig y Rhiw fell race

Race: Craig y Rhiw/Rhydycroesau fell race (4m/1000ft)
Time/Position: 29:20 (7th from 47 [3rd v40])
This short, fast race was a little too short and fast for me: largely forest tracks throughout, more of a trail race than a fell race. It loops the village show field (literally on the Wales-England border) before crossing through the delightful village of Rhydycroesau to head into the humid forest. A series of climbs leads to a short ridge, presumably the top of Craig y Rhiw, before a slippery descent back down to the valley (not quite long enough to catch the small group in front). I made the mistake of thinking the next little loop was the steep 'sting in the tail'. It wasn't, as I discovered during the very taxing final 400m climb to the finish!

Resolution 10k

Race: Resolution 10k, Finsbury Park, London
Time/Position: 38:49 (2nd from 356)
Given my urgent need to get back on the roads before the forthcoming Welsh 10k championships, I thought I'd enter this one as we were staying in London for the weekend. A strange but enjoyable (and charitable) event: lots of runners, chip timing, but basically a fun run (hence my high finishing position!). The course was pleasant - two laps around Finsbury Park, with a surprising number of hills and a few grass sections, so not particularly fast. A small group of runners took it seriously, and I found myself in second place after 1 or 2k. Had no intention of making myself uncomfortable, so just kept a brisk pace going and used the race as an excellent training session. It was all pretty unusual, a sharp contrast with the usual race-day routine back home, but quite pleasant and relaxed. I'll have to run over three minutes quicker than this in Cardiff though.

Ponderosa fell race

Race: Ponderosa (4m/1000ft/BS)
Time/Position: 28:42 (12th from 120)
This was a much needed reality check. After six or so category wins this summer, a stronger competitive field on this race pushed me back down to my rightful place! I climbed quite well to the top of Cyrn y Brain in 10 minutes, but this race really doesn't give you any time to catch your breath: virtually an all-out (quite exhilerating) sprint from the mast down the narrow paths above Fron Lwyd. I picked a bad line through the bogs, lost a place, then lost another place on the final climb to the finish. The short final climb is always a desperate struggle, coming as it does at the end of a flat-out three mile descent! I beat my pb for the course by 20 seconds (my 3rd or 4th time in this race) but always tend to finish some way down the field.

Carreg Mianog climbs

Crag: Carreg Mianog, Carneddau
Routes: Zip Wall (HS 4b:led), Zip Groove (VS 4c:sec), Cracked Arete (VS 4b:led), Biceps Wall (VS 4c:sec), Knee Cap (VS 4c:sec)
There aren't many decent crags in Snowdonia which are 30 minutes walk from a main road, yet remain completely quiet on a sunny summer Sunday. Carreg Mianog does, and was an excellent choice today after recent rain. It's a delightful place, with a remarkably isolated feel despite being close to the A5, and it has some nice, if rather short (30-40m) routes. I started by leading Zip Wall, which had yet to get the sun and so was rather wet. This made the initial steep wall tricky for the grade: wet footholds throughout. A few moves left gain a mantel to a ledge, followed by a pleasant arete and a fun (dry!) final crack. All much better than it looks from below. Vic then followed up with Zip Groove, a strong line, if a little vegetated. This route felt easier than Zip Wall despite the grade, and gave nice bridging on good holds up two distinct but linked grooves. We finished up the much harder crack left of the Zip Wall finish, for variety. This gave a couple of interesting 5b-ish layaway moves. I then led the classic of the crag before lunch. Cracked Arete is up there with the likes of Yellow Groove and Hawk's Nest Arete as the best single-pitch VS in Snowdonia: just delightful climbing throughout. Neat moves up the arete gain a juggy curving crack which leads to a spike and ledge in a great position. Then another curving crack, slightly harder, gains an easier and wider final crack. Immaculate, well-positioned low-end VS climbing with superb rock and protection throughout - what a shame it's not three times longer! After lunch, Vic led the meatier Biceps Wall at hardish VS. Another wet, almost bouldery start gains a niche via an awkward mantel. Then easier climbing leads to a distinct and unique crux - hard to describe the solution to this move, but it involves a trailing left leg and an awkward jam. The final wall is no pushover - fingery moves on small holds for the grade. We finished with Kneecap, a rather obscure route which was something of a sandbag. It takes the obvious green groove up the front edge of the east buttress. The bottom section below the overhang was very wet, and gave a physical, thrutchy struggle to gain a small ledge. The green groove was reasonable by comparison, and led to a ledge with a huge abandoned nest (raven or buzzard?). Above, the route stayed tough, with a steep flake crack leading to a final awkward mantel.

Fox Trot fell race

Race: Fox Trot fell race, Colwyn Bay (7m/1000ft)
Time/Position: 52:55 (5th from 45 [1st v40])
As with the Pincyn race last week, this is an excellent new event. It's also a very similar kind of race, a sort of fell/trail/XC hybrid in an unlikely locale, and as such is runnable and quite fast throughout. The route left Rydal school to climb up to Pwllycrochan woods, cross-country style running through the woods to gain the secluded Nant y Glyn. The route then climbs quite gradually south up this valley to a highpoint near Mynydd Llanelian before a wonderful long descent through fields via Cilgwyn Mawr - with great sea views - led back to the woods and school. I went reasonably well on the long climb, really enjoyed it, and almost drew level with the 3rd and 4th placed runners (Neil well out in front again). However, my lack of speedwork told again on the long descent and I finished one place down on last week, in fifth overall. I won the v40 category again.

Y Garn mountaineering

Peaks/Crag: Y Garn, Nantlle
Routes: Eastern Arete (VD:led p.1,3,5)
Crag: Clogwyn y Garreg
Routes: The Magic Sod (D:sol), In Search of Perpetual Motion (D:sol)
If yesterday was the outcrop day, today was very much the traditional Victorian mountain day. A complete contrast, variety being the spice of life. Left Llan Ffestiniog at 7am for a run from the house all the way up Cwm Teigl to the top of Graig Ddu quarry and back. Quite a steep finish. Back for breakfast and shower, before meeting Alwyn in Rhyd Ddu at 9.15am. After being rained off Y Garn last September, we found ourselves in light drizzle again as we started the steep and possibly illicit walk-in from Bwlchgylfin. Eastern Arete is fairly obvious - there's only two real lines here, and I began the first pitch in a cold wind. After an easy chimney I entered a vegetated and muddy groove. Unpleasant, so I moved on to the arete - more like HS - and finished up that to a loose short wall. Alwyn led a short pitch, before I led a much better third (with very cold hands) up a steep but positive crack to a sloping ledge. An easy corner then leads to short, slabby wall and an easy horizontal ridge. Much better rock on this section, which continued for Alwyn's pitch up a hidden crack right of the ridge which led up to another easy horizontal section. It remained cold and windy as I finished up the final obvious groove before scrambling led to the summit. Hardly classic climbing but a nice esoteric route in a fabulous isolated position above Nantlle. The ridge really does finish on the summit and it has a genuine mountaineering feel. After lunch on the summit (last visited for about two seconds during the fell race in 2008), glad to be out of the cold wind, we ambled down the ridge towards Rhyd Ddu before branching off along the track back to the Bwlch. It was still only lunchtime, so I jogged around Llyn y Dywarchen to little Clogwyn y Garreg. I nipped up the obvious slab above the lake, only later finding that it was a named Diff! I then walked over the little knoll to find another easy 20m slab in a lovely isolated hollow overlooking Moel Eilio and Craig y Bera. Reminiscent of the Red Slab in Cwm Graianog. Finished off by taking the subsidiary slab (left), moving right to gain the arete of the Dywarchen slab to give a better, cleaner route to the top.

Tremadog climbs

Crag: Craig Pant Ifan, Tremadog
Routes: Hogmanay Hangover (HS 4b,4b:led p.2), Holloway p.1 (VS 4c:led), Alcatraz/Bucket Rider (HVS 5a:sec), Scratch Arete (HVS 4c,5a:led p.1)
Low cloud and drizzle forecast for the hills, so a day at Tremadog seemed in order. We didn't arrive until lunchtime, and eased ourself back into climbing after several weeks off with a lead of one of the crag's easy routes which we located from the road. It can be tricky to find the more esoteric routes at Tremadog, so it's worth going for them when you find them. Actually, Hogmanay Hangover does get a bit of traffic and is a nice route. Vic led the first pitch, which goes awkwardly up smooth, slatey rock (reminiscent of parts of Craig y Gesail) until you move round a corner to gain the rib. Then good simple climbing on more typical Tremadog rock goes up a nicely positioned blunt rib to the belay. Vic's friend, Caroline, went up next, before I led through up the top two pitches (merged) on a single 9mm. This involved a simple groove up to a loose flake, then an interesting traverse across a sloping ledge to the arete and a nicely positioned finish. Caroline then left, and we found the start of Holloway. I led up this simple vegetated rib (don't know why it gets 4c) to the start of Alcatraz: the only way to gain the start ledge. Vic then led up Alcatraz, but traversed across into the groove of Bucket Rider (E1 5b). We ended up combining the two routes: awkward bridging up the rounded Bucket Rider groove to moves right into the niche of Alcatraz, quite sustained, before some interesting steep finishing moves up the wall. Finished up with the classic Scratch Arete after cleverly avoiding the crowds earlier on. I led pitch one, which goes scrappily up to a final crack and bulge. This gives surprisingly steep and strenuous climbing to the belay. The top pitch is superb but (I thought) easier than the first. An excellent slab leads across to the arete, then the celebrated move over the overlap. This is surprisingly positive and rough, and gains a large jug quite quickly. Above this, the route follows big flakes in a splendid position to finish up a more awkward jamming crack. Very easy for the grade, but a fine route. We then retired for refreshments in Llan Ffestiniog.

Pincyn fell race

Race: Push up the Pincyn (6m/1300ft/BM)
Time/Position: 48:46 (4th from 49 [2nd v40])
An unusual location for a fell race, deep in the heart of Clocaenog, but an excellent addition to the calendar. It worked really well as a race, incorporating a good deal of climbing and tricky terrain, and is a pleasingly logical circuit. The race starts from the Clawddnewydd show, crossing several fields to emerge in Clocaenog village. From here, it gradually climbs up towards the top of Pincyn Llys (Llys y Frenhines), an almost entirely forested hill. Some steep ground just before the summit. I clawed back places gradually throughout the race, and managed to pick up some speed on the loop around the summit back to Clocaenog to get into fourth place. A couple of runners were visible behind as I started slowing on the final short climbs over the fields back to the showground, but I managed to hold on fairly comfortably for fourth overall. Got a prize for 1st v40, but the 3rd placed runner was also in the category.

Green grass of home fell race

Race: Green grass of home fell race, short course! (4m/1500ft/AS)
Time/Position: 36:39 (8th [1st v40])
An unusual race this, as the first 23 runners (including me) failed to complete the full course. This particular race changes its route every year, although I've only done it once before as it usually clashes with my holiday. This year, we started up the track from Llangynhafal to the ridge at Dywyll, down towards Cilcain then along the runnable contouring track used by the Lletty race to Pwll y Rhos. From here, it's a steepish but still runnable pull to the top of Moel Famau. Perhaps unsurprisingly, I felt fine on the climbs, going over the top in 5th or 6th, but lost ground on the flat and the descents - no speedwork or races for several weeks. After the mountain bike descent, we branched off for the final climb but were all guilty of following the man in front (inevitable at this stage in the race?) and all missed the tape sending us back up the ridge! It took a while for the penny to drop, and led to bizarre scenes as there was a huge gap between the first 23 runners on the short (or cheats!) course and the 44 who finished the full course: we ended up with results for two separate races. So I don't feel that my first vet placing was really valid this time!

Mont Pelat

Peaks: Mont Pelat (3050m)
Area: Mercantour Alps, France
This peak dominates the northern end of the Mercantour and was an appealing objective from the refuge. I left just before 6am: the idea being that I'd run up the peak and return before breakfast was over. I achieved this, just! Despite its height, Pelat is an easy tourist mountain with a superbly engineered path all the way to the top. As such, it can be treated purely as a run/fast walk and was relaxing and hugely enjoyable throughout. Again, totally different in character from the peaks I've done in the rest of the Mercantour. I scampered through the woods towards a flat meadow, then began the climbing after I crossed the Meouille stream. An enormous zigzag contoured up through the Barre du Pelat, a large rockband, gaining more grassy slopes further west. I half jogged, half walked up this steeper section - already slowing in the thin air, to gain the desolate moonscape of the Combe de Pelat. No big clapier fields to slow progress here, as is typical further south. Instead, a vast cwm of scree: entirely featureless, yet quite dramatic. To the east, the curiously named Trou de l'Aigle towers impressively. I kept a decent pace going and finally emerged into welcome sunshine at the summit ridge. The east ridge then gives easy but enjoyable scrambling to the top (64 mins from the hut: guidebook time is 3hrs). Superb views in all directions, although I was particularly taken with the view north over la Grande Cayolle towards Le Cimet. Weird wispy strands of lenticular cloud moved over the summits, constantly shifting position. From the summit, I picked out Viso, Gelas, Argentera and the peaks done last year like Corborant and Tenibre. The much higher Ecrins were obvious further north, reminding me of my trip there in 1994 - and I could also pick out the Castellane summits much further south. It was cold enough to require hat and down jacket - still just after 7am. I ran down without incident in around 50 minutes to the hut, where I just caught the tail end of the petit dejeuner - although the coffee was getting cold. After airing our stuff, we then enjoyed a delightful stroll around the Lac d'Allos. It was still early, before the crowds arrived, and we had it to ourselves. The weather was crisp and perfectly clear, and the children enjoyed it: a memorable hour. We strolled back to the car later that morning, driving to Nice via Annot.

Tours des Lacs

Peaks: La Petit Tour (2693m), La Grande Tour (2745m)
Area: Les Tours du Lac, Mercantour Alps, France
This was the last weekend of our holiday, so a family trip to the Alps seemed appropriate. We drove up via Castellane and lunch in wonderful Colmars, stopping at the highest car park above Allos. I've wanted to visit this area for years, and it was fantastic to be able to take the family with me for their first night in an Alpine refuge. This region is very different in character to the core region of the Mercantour that I know so well: much more open, less dramatic, but exquisitely beautiful. We ambled up through the trees, and it was refreshing to be relaxed and unhurried for once. After a short, steeper climb we had our first view of the stunning Lac d'Allos: deep blue water, framed by pine trees and the Tours de Lac. The Tours are a group of mini-dolomitic peaks that circle the lake, and I immediately thought it would be nice to go up them. So after dumping sacs in the refuge, we all walked up on the path towards the Col de l'Encombrette. The children were tired and not particularly happy, so they rested with Kate in a meadow east of Tete de Monier. The spectacular views of Mont Pelat did not improve their moods! So my time was limited again, and I set off running for the col. This was tremendous, nicely runnable (past several marmots) and I gained the col quickly, setting out immediately up the ridge due east towards the Petit Tour. This gave an enjoyable ascent, clearly quite popular (although it was mid-afternoon and I was entirely alone), and gave superb views north over Lac d'Allos and Pelat, and south over unfamiliar territory to the Tete de l'Encombrette. The eroded summit tower, which looks sheer, had an obvious weakness which led via a short scramble to the small summit. From here, the Grande Tour looked great and bore an uncanny resemblance to Torridonian mountains like Beinn Alligin. I had time to do it if I rushed, so scampered down the ridge - tremendous views on all sides - contouring up and beneath the peak until I found a weakness in the rockband which encircled the summit tower. A family of chamois gave me a clue, and I quickly located a hidden sandy gully which led easily to the upper scree slopes and the top. I could have continued in this vein, bagging all the peaks in a giant loop of the lake, but I had to get back to the meadow. I reversed my footsteps, contouring the Petit Tour lower down, and running almost flat out from the Col. Just over an hour for both peaks from the meadow. We all ambled down to the hut where we spent a highly enjoyable evening just enjoying the scenery and ambience.

Montagne de Thiey

Peaks: Montagne de Thiey (1553m)
Area: Siagne-Loup, Provence
I always like to have at least one family day among the limestone 'clues' and hills of Haute Provence. Today, the plan was to traverse Bauroux from Seranon. However, it became clear quite quickly that there were access issues, and we retreated to the Col de Valferriere where we all walked up through the Bois de Cornay to enjoy a wonderful picnic in a quite exceptional location - a beautiful plateau dotted with meadows and copses of pine, with far-reaching views over the limestone hills to the north and east. A tremendous impression of isolation despite proximity to the road. I then drove back towards Grasse, feeling underexercised, and parked at the bottom of the Vallon de Nans, where I was pleased to find a path up the Montagne de Thiey. It was the middle of the day, unfortunately, but not desperately hot (still slightly uncomfortable though). Plenty of shady snack spots for the children, but I didn't have much time, so set off without sac or water. The route was very runnable, luckily, with gentle zigzags leading through the forest to a levelling. Then wide forest roads eventually emerge from the treeline to give a final steeper ascent to gain the summit at the end of a big plateau. Instructive views down over the Pas de la Faye towards Grasse and the coast. Slightly hazy inland, but I could still make out previously climbed peaks around Castellane as well as the Maritime Alps. This outing followed two glorious early-morning loops of my favourite 8 mile Esterel 'Perthus' circuit on the 15th and 17th.

Cime Ouest de Fenestre

Peaks: Cime Ouest de Fenestre (2662m)
Area: Maritime Alps, France
Severely pushed for time this morning, as I had to pick the family up from Nice airport at 10.15am! There was only one realistic option, and that was to run up one of the two little peaks above the Col de Fenestre. I left the hut just after 6am, knowing from previous experience that the path is superbly engineered and entirely runnable. Long zigzags lead gradually up to the Lac de Fenestre (just beyond the point I left the path when I did Cime St Robert last year). Slightly steeper ground led up the Col itself, the Italian border (39m from the hut). A vague path led up the ridge towards the Cime Ouest, before moving through a boulder field to an obvious gully. This was reminiscent of the gully on the normal route up Cime St Robert, and gives a steep but quick ascent to the bouldery summit. Some nice scrambling led over huge boulders along a final ridge to the true summit (55m from the hut). Good early morning views over to St Robert, Gelas, Ponset, and the impressive yet unheralded (not done by me anyway) Cime du Lombard. I picked my way back down to the Col, then ran back to the Madone in bang on 20 minutes. Ended up having time for a croissant in St Martin and a walk around Lantosque before the plane landed. Although this year's trip was very brief and not quite what I'd planned (marred by the after-effects of my bug) it was still a very enjoyable addition to the many memorable days I've spent in the Mercantour.

Mont Bego, Cime du Diable

Peaks: Mont Bego (2872m), Cime du Diable (2685m)
Area: Maritime Alps, France
Left the hut at 6am, feeling much better, to a glorious clear morning. I crossed the Lac Long dam wall and immediately started the climb up Mont Bego. By the usual Mercantour standards, this was well tracked out: clearly a popular route. It twisted round the southern spur of the mountain, up grass and scree, to finally gain sunshine and a fore summit. Then a lovely little ridge led across to a final scrambly ridge and the summit. I was up in around an hour, by 7am, and the view was superb. This peak really does have a claim to be the 'end of the Alps' - you do get that feeling, as the land south and east drops away to the Med. Views over Capelet, Gelas and the central Mercantour were excellent and it was nice to fill in this obvious gap in the range. I jogged down, without incident, and breakfasted just above the Merveilles Hut. I felt my normal self now, and was looking forward to putting my plans for the rest of the day into action. I headed towards the Pas du Trem from the hut, past an exquisite sequence of lakes. First came Lac Fourca, then the delightful Lac du Trem - a perfect foreground for pictures of Mont Bego. The path then contours past the much larger Lac de la Muta to gain gentler slopes leading up to the tiny Lacs du Diable and then the Pas du Trem. Another tremendous spot: a small col linking Merveilles with Gordolasque. Before I descended, however, I wanted to get up Cime du Diable, and again this proved very straitforward. A small path gained a steeper section then the vague east ridge to the summit. The day had stayed clear, giving fine views over to Gelas and back to Bego (which looked pleasingly distant). To the south, the GR52 follows long grassy ridges down to L'Authion: fine running terrain. I descended to the Pas, before enjoying a superb descent down the Vallon des Verrairiers. This was highly rewarding. Not a waymarked trail, but a small path weaved down through snowfields before negotiating the inevitable 'clapier' zone, finding a route through huge boulders, to the lush greenery of the lower valley. Wonderful stuff, and I prolonged my time here as much as possible. The verdant lower section was enlivened by a large toad literally landing on my foot as it leapt out of the vegetation fringing the narrow path near the river. The route became harder to follow as the valley merges with the Vallon de la Mairis - it kinked south through a forest to emerge in St Grat right next to the Relais des Merveilles, where I enjoyed a modest but splendid late lunch before walking back up the valley to the car at Pont du Countet. Drove round to the Madone de Fenetre via St Martin, and spent another excellent night in that refuge.

Gordalasque-Merveilles traverse

Still suffering from the after-effects of a stomach bug, so had to downscale my plans for the day after sleeping in the car in St Martin (having arrived on a late flight to Nice). The aim was to do Maledie - the most obvious remaining gap in my list of Mercantour peaks - before following the GR52 over to the Merveilles hut. However, I felt tired even during the walk from Pont du Countet in the Gordolasque valley to the Nice hut, which I usually do in less than an hour: clearly still a bit weak and affected. However, it was early and the weather was wonderful, so I just tried to enjoy the day and do the 'Tour du Grand Capelet' instead. This was quite an appealing option, as I had climbed and traversed the peak in 2008. An icy knee-deep river crossing just above the hut woke me up, and I made a half-hearted attempt at Cime Nire before concluding I definitely wasn't up to it. Lac Nire made a delightful breakfast spot, though, and the valley gets tighter and more dramatic as it heads past more little lakes to gain a large snowfield leading up to the Baisse du Basto. I was able to try out my kahtoolas on this, to good effect, until more scree and snow led to the Baisse: a superb spot at 2693m. I went up a small nearby peak (unnamed) for a bite to eat. The weather had changed quite dramatically during the climb, and dark clouds covered Mont Bego, while towering thunderheads began to appear above Ponset and Neiglier to the west. They got even more menacing as I contoured the scree above Lac Basto, and the rain started as I began the much shorter ascent to the second major col of the day: Baisse du Valmasque. Its evocative name (Sorceror's Pass) particularly apt today, as a loud clap of thunder greeted my arrival. I scampered down into the Merveilles Valley, in increasingly heavy rain, and eventually decided to seek shelter. I found an ideal 'howff' below a huge boulder and lay there in complete comfort as the worst of the rain passed over. The Vallee des Merveilles was a delight, although it remained cold and wet, and I soon reached the prehistoric rock engravings for which it is famous. I'd intended ambling along, but the rain got heavier again and became torrential as I arrived at the Merveilles hut. Another violent storm followed, but I was ensconced in the hut with hot chocolate by then. An evening ramble to Lac Saorgine, and a fine meal, prefaced a good night's sleep - despite the fact that the hut was jammed to full capacity.

Saunders Lakeland mountain marathon, day 2

Race: SLMM (Scafell class) day 2 (24k/950m)
Time/Position: 6:58:50 (14:59 cumulative:13/16)
A complete contrast with yesterday: low cloud in the morning giving way to galeforce winds and driving rain which lasted all day. The essence of the mountain marathon experience and an enjoyable and satisfying test, although again we finished well down the field. A very steep climb up to the first checkpoint below Kentmere Pike was a brutal wake-up call, followed by easier contouring through the clag to Wren Gill. A tough leg over Gatesgarth Pass to CP 3 in a steep gully was draining: strong winds and torrential rain, although we had some relief from the wind as we retraced our steps over to (and down) Mosedale - some good running and good route planning over the side of Brunt Tongue, avoiding the bogs, to a CP on the top of Ulthwaite Rigg. Tricky navigation through knolls in the mist gained another CP at lonely Haskew Tarn, but we'd been up high for a while now in the worst of the weather and were starting to get cold. The next leg was clearly a toughie, with two choices: a big decision. I decided to go for the longer but less exposed option, given the weather, and it was a good decision. We jogged past delightful waterfalls at the bottom of Mosedale Beck to equally attractive Swindale, then took the Old Corpse Road to Mardale Common: breaking off to contour round to CP 6. More tricky nav over complex, lumpy terrain around Brown Howe - in thick mist - saw us gain CP 7 before good running and nav cut the corner to Harper Hills. We then made a mistake, careless navigation (tiring now) and had to retrace steps to a fence corner before taking a precise bearing to find CP 8 on a crag top. The route was in the bag now, apart from the climb back over Swindale to leave 'Lakeland' and gain the Pennine scenery and final check at Keld Gill. A ferocious squally shower was a fitting accompaniment at this late stage. A shame we couldn't have been more competitive (I would have liked to have done far more running, slightly frustrating especially on day one) but I still really enjoyed the Scafell class and found it about right in terms of distance and climb. There were so few competitors on it (compared to 70+ on the shorter classes) that you don't have the dreaded crocodiles to follow to the checkpoints - you are far more dependent on your own decisions and navigation, especially satisfying in these conditions.

Saunders Lakeland mountain marathon, day 1

Race: SLMM (Scafell class) day 1 (29k/1400m)
Peaks: High Raise, Rampsgill Head, High Street, Thornthwaite Crag
Area: Haweswater, Lake District
Time: 8:00:35
After thoroughly enjoying the Bowfell class on this event last year, we moved up a gear here and tackled the longest pairs class: the Scafell. The stats are misleading, as the distances are measured in a straight line, the climbs measured as optimal routes: so you actually cover far more ground (I'd estimate 60k over two days). The weather was perfect as we set out from Wetsleddale across typical Pennine scenery of marsh and peat hags, crossing (aesthetically) into Lakeland as we crossed Swindale between checkpoints one and two. A bridleway gave easy access to Haweswater before a gradual climb up to two more checkpoints on the moors north of the reservoir. We skirted Measand Beck before descending to a CP in Longgrain Beck and then climbed onto the High Street ridge near High Raise. Wonderful running along the ridge, the highlight of the weekend, with a light breeze and blue skies. Great views of the Lakes, with Helvellyn dominant to the west. Easy running over Rampsgill Head, High Street and Thornthwaite Crag. I'd visited the latter two a few years ago on the Kentmere horseshoe and so had some knowledge of the terrain. We descended steep scree to CP 6 above Kentmere Reservoir - unfortunately Stef had real problems here and we lost a lot of time, which then got worse as the next leg was the psychological crux. A huge climb back east over the ridge at Brown Howe then all the way over to Mosedale: good route-planning meant we minimised the effort but it was still hard work. We then contoured Brunt Tongue to gain the final two checks in peatbog between Little Mosedale and Greycrag tarn. Stef struggled again on the steep descent to the campsite and we finished well down the field. A beautiful campsite at the top of Longsleddale was ample compensation, though.

Llanberis slate climbs

Crag: Llanberis Slate
Routes: Solstice (HVS 5a:led), Septuagenarian (f5+/6a:led), Fool's Gold (E1 5c:sec), Tomb Raider (f6a,f3,f6a:led p.1,3), Horse Latitudes (f6a+:led), The Horsin' Around Finish (f6a+:led), Bela Lugosi is Dead (E1 5b:sec)
Heavy rain in the night, the first for weeks, meant we had to change our plans for the day. I'd planned to head into the hills, but quick-drying slate was the obvious safe option. Began, predictably enough, with a lead of Solstice, which takes the obvious line of hollow flakes left of Equinox (which I led many years ago). A very polished and rather awkward move, with little for the feet, gains a good hold before big flakes lead out right to an easy finish. We spied a line of new bolts on the descent. It looked quite a nice line, so I nipped up it. A short slab leads to good moves up and over a bulge before a traverse right leads to a good finish up a delicate slab. This is apparently given f6a but is 5+ at most. Nice climbing though, when compared to some of the scrappy bolted lines hereabouts. Because it was quiet we also nipped up Fool's Gold, a slate classic with one hard 5c move to gain the upper crack. The rest is quite straightforward but excellent throughout. After lunch, we enjoyed the novelty of a multi-pitch slate route in Never Never Land. Tomb Raider goes up a line of bolts on a short slab to a series of mantelshelves, which get progressively easier. Alwyn ambled right on the easy second pitch, before I led a nice final pitch around a small, fun overhang and up the obvious corner. Enjoyable, but again overgraded: 5+ at most. Then came a long but fascinating walk down through the quarries - new territory for me - looking for Horse Latitudes. This recently retro-bolted line used to weigh in at E3 5c but is now a superb 'easy' sports climb, in my view one of the best of its kind in Wales. It takes a vein of dolerite running up the arete on the left of a 30m high slab. Superb delicate climbing, quite technical and sustained but never particularly hard, leads up to a ledge. I then took the obvious Horsin' Around finish, which moves right round the upper arete to regain the dolerite. Up this steeply on small holds to the top. A great pitch with great moves, long enough to satisfy, as is the established classic Bela Lugosi to its right. Lovely climbing up the obvious slim, positive crack to a wider crack and a polished finale. Finished with a run through the quarries to Nant Peris, via the remarkable Twll Mawr, one of the wonders of Wales.

Llanddulas cave climbs

Crag: Llanddulas Cave
Routes: Not Runout Groove (f5+:led), Clipterfyn (f5+:sec), Udder Head (f6a:led), India-Rubber Head (f6a:sec), Rosalind Franklin's Picture (f5:sec), Guano on Sight (f6a+:sec)
After a short break for lunch after the race, I headed west immediately to sample the new bolted crag above Llanddulas. Unsurprisingly, I was rather tired and not on the best of form, so my initial lead up Runout Groove seemed awkward. Rather rounded holds and surprisingly steep climbing: a mantel leads to easier climbing to the upper groove. Dale's lead, Clipterfyn, was similarly awkward and also rather dirty. Fortunately, Udder Head was far better. Good positive climbing up a wall to a left-leaning vague groove which steepens to give a fine finish. Its companion route to the left was also good, and even juggier. It moves right on steeper ground to join Udder Head for the final steep mantel. We then moved round to the main cave for the truly bizarre Rosalind Franklin's Picture, which climbs a gully (actually inside the cave, so pretty gloomy) then bridges out on green holds to gain an upper chamber with a sea view. Guano on Sight was probably the most unsuitable route to finish on given my fatigue: a slightly overhanging boss of tufa climbed mainly on huge jugs. Rather pumpy, steep and strenuous, although very good. I needed a couple of rests and will definitely come back to do it when I haven't done a 6-peak fell race in the morning!

Moel y Gamelin fell race

Race: Moel y Gamelin (9.5m/2400ft/AM)
Time/Position: 1:24:46 (4th from 52 [1st v40])
A few seconds slower than the last time I did this race in 2008, which was disappointing. However, it was supposedly the hottest day of the year so far and certainly felt it for the final climbs back over Gamelin. I started out quite fast over the first four hills - Moel y Faen, Gamelin, Moel y Gaer and Morfydd. It was a small field, so by the time I climbed over Morfydd I was way behind Neil, Jez and the leader, and well in front of the rest of the field. A lovely cooling breeze helped the first part of the 'moorland' section west of Bwlch y Groes. This is lonely country at the best of times, so it was very peculiar to be out of sight of any other runners. Good though, and I kept a reasonable pace until the final climb, when the stifling heat became a factor. No breeze here, and it was hard to keep motivated in the circumstances! The Conquering Hero bridleway to the ridge was OK but the climbs back over Gamelin and Moel y Faen were very hot and therefore very draining - I lost a lot of time here as I slackened off, feeling very tired, after first confirming nobody was gaining ground behind. I finished 1st v40 again. It's been a good fortnight (or 12 days!), with three category wins and one narrow second, although it's probably been largely by default, with stronger runners not turning up.

Hotfoot up Famau race

Race: Hotfoot up Famau fell race (3.5m/1200ft/AS)
Time/Position: 38:41 (4th from 65 [1st v40])
Cooler than expected tonight, very dry underfoot, with bracken perhaps a little lower than usual. Some explanation perhaps for the fact that I took 2:16 off my pb for this tough and excellent race - the first of the enjoyable Clwydian summer series. Definitely stepped up a gear too, deliberately started fast, plummeting down the valley from OD towards Fron Bellaf in third place. Kept it going quite well, quick pace down the narrow path with one close shave after a slip, and ran more of the very steep hill up Moel y Gaer than in previous years. Still well placed as we continued up the ridge before another fast descent down to Nant y Ne. No breeze at all for the climb back towards the gully - humid and hard as a result. As ever, the gully gave a desperate struggle up to the summit. But I didn't blow up and found myself alone for the long fast descent down OD to the finish. First vet for the second time in a week (shame I narrowly missed the hat-trick last Saturday!).

Craig Ddu (etc) climbs

Crag: Craig Ddu, Llanberis
Routes: Crown of Thorns (S 4a:led p.1,2), Yellow Groove (VS 4b:led)
Crag: Drws y Gwynt, Llanberis
Routes: Cracked Wall (S:led), Little Sepulchre (VS 4b:sec)
Crag: Cefn Braich, Llanberis
Routes: Rib Route (VD:led p.2)
With the fine weather continuing, it seemed time to go for a venue that needs a drought for the routes to be feasible (or enjoyable). Craig Ddu was the obvious choice, with the seeping black wall on the left of the crag rarely in any kind of condition. Crown of Thorns goes straight up this wall, and was a pleasant and almost completely dry outing today. The atmosphere is rather sombre though, particularly as the sun had yet to hit the crag when I began. The route is simple but pleasant, up good holds to a ledge, before a groove on the right gains a platform. I continued up the next pitch, a slanting rampline up to a corner. After bringing up Alwyn, I led the short final pitch, up a slabby wall to a tricky steeper move which gains the top. We then moved across to the right of the crag, which has much more in common with the other crags on the south side of the pass: clean, friendly and sunny. Alwyn scrambled up to the base of Yellow Groove, which I then led. This is a superb pitch, as good as anything in Snowdonia at this grade, albeit marred by its brevity. The groove looks smooth and hard from below, but this is an illusion as it is furnished with huge holds. An initial crack leads to great moves right below an overhang. This gains a small ledge below the clean-cut groove: great climbing up this, using big holds on the edge in a great position (with superb protection) gains another small ledge and a more delicate, slabby finish. We tried to descend on the right of the crag, but this is problematic and involved a huge detour which brought us out below another crag. I recognised this as Drws y Gwynt and, although we had no guidebook, the lines looked obvious - so I led what turned out to be Cracked Wall. This is another of those easy little gems - it goes up on massive holds to gain a steep crack and a very steep finish (for the grade) which is climbed on huge pinnacle holds. Incredible rough rock and a great position high above the Pass make up for its shortness. Took the opportunity while here to also climb the obvious corner crack of Little Sepulchre: sustained and rather physical. I then wanted to lead Zigzag but Alwyn was tiring so we finished with Rib Route, a little VD, instead. Glorious sunshine as we descended, so I stopped off in Aber and ran from the A55 to Aber Falls in 15 minutes, partly because I was curious to see how much water was left. Answer: not much. Beautiful warm sunshine on the way back with the sea glistening below, lovely easy running.

Moel Hebog fell race

Race: Ras Moel Hebog (4m/2400ft/AS)
Peaks: Moel Hebog
Time/Position: 55:57 (9th from 43 [2nd v40])
A great event and a classic short fell race, made even better by the perfect weather which continues to provide remarkable clarity of light and helpful dry conditions underfoot. Preparation for this was hardly ideal - 1000ft of rock climbing and nine hours on your feet the day before a race is probably not in any training manual. However, I didn't feel too bad through the delightful woods that lead from the pretty, sun-drenched meadow at the edge of Beddgelert to the track which takes you down to the base of the climb. Then comes a relentless ascent, which I have walked a few times before, up steep grass initially to a shoulder, then along the vague ridge which runs below the crags then curves right up rocky and very steep ground to the summit plateau. My legs inevitably began to tire before the top, partly because of recent activity, although I managed to pick up the pace across the top (36m to trig point) and descended the rocky terrain at the top quite well, moving into 7th or 8th place initially before others took better 'micro-lines' through the tricky terrain lower down. The descent is notoriously punishing for the quads, so I was pleased to keep it going reasonably well, especially when it levels off near the bottom (19m from summit to village). However, I did develop an enormous blister across the base of my heel, which rendered the last section uncomfortable. I got into a sprint finish with another chap, not realising it was actually a sprint for first v40. I ended up missing first place in the category by 6 seconds! Finished 2nd v40.

Idwal enchainement

Crag: East Wall, Cwm Idwal
Routes: East Wall Girdle (VS 4a,4b,4b,4b:led p.1,3)
Crag: Holly Tree Wall, Cwm Idwal
Routes: Original Route (VS 5a:sec)
Crag: Continuation Wall, Cwm Idwal
Routes: Groove Above (S 4b:led)
Crag: Upper Cliff, Glyder Fawr
Routes: Grey Arete (HVS 4c,4c,5a:led p.1,2)
A magnificent day, with precisely 1,010ft of high quality climbing. East Wall Girdle has long been a target of mine, an intriguing long rising traverse which starts up the first pitch of Tennis Shoe and gradually weaves its way across this complex wall. I've led this pitch before and it's an enjoyable, though polished, romp up a subsidiary slab which I merged with the second pitch of the Girdle. Immediately, the polish is gone - replaced by the superbly rough bubbly rock of the East Wall. An easy quartz slab leads to a stance, after which Vic merged another pitch (conventional p.3+4) to the stance on Rake End Chimney. This was excellent, up another slab to a steepening, with a tricky move round a bulge to gain the Heather Wall slab. Some drizzle but it didn't matter, and it soon stopped. Great climbing on bubbly rock led left across the slab to a delicate move round an arete to gain the stance. I then led another long merged pitch, across an undulating line of weakness on perfect rock to gain the Ash Tree Wall, followed by the easy gangway that leads to the 'Meadow'. Vic finished up the final pitch, shared with Grooved Wall, up a steep wall in a good position before moving left and finishing up a splendid final groove. A terrific route, a Welsh classic, never technical but superbly sustained at a gentle standard and long enough to really satisfy. We were carrying a sac, by necessity on such a day, and scrambled across and down to enjoy lunch below Holly Tree Wall. Sunshine started to peep through as Vic led Original Route in one pitch. This is another cracking route, with a famously awkward start to gain a short groove. This didn't seem too hard, solved by a little side-pull, and gives access to the delightful Crescent Slab, which leads easily to a chimney. This was almost impossible to get up with my sac, so I moved out onto the left wall for a hard move on small positive holds (much harder than the supposed crux at the start). Easy climbing leads to a big ledge directly below Groove Above, which I led immediately. Again, this has a notorious awkward start, which again is only a few inches above the ground. Solved this fairly comfortably, to give nice climbing up a positive groove before the route quickly peters out on ledges which lead out to a rib and the top. Dehydration was now inevitably kicking in, as we finished our small bottle of water, but I managed to locate a stream as we continued up the scrambling terrain diagonally rightwards to the Grey Group. I remember doing a similar combination of linked routes here years ago, finishing with Grey Slab and thinking what a magnificent place this upper cliff is. This time, it had to be Grey Arete, which looks absolutely compelling from every angle. I led up the initial groove, which requires a semi-layback up a positive flake edge which eventually allows for a skip right to the arete itself. Easy climbing up this, on perfect rock, gains the belay: intricate, immaculate climbing, a great pitch. The position of the belay makes it impossible to merge, so I bought Vic up before continuing up the second pitch. This follows big pockets to a delicate and committing move on small holds. Tendrils of mist swept down the crag as I started up the wall - superbly atmospheric and memorable. Vic then led the final pitch up a steep flake which leads after one tricky move to a wide positive crack and easy shelves: the mist peeled away as I followed to reveal Llyn Idwal shimmering far below. A marvellous, classic climb in a truly wonderful position above it all and finishing near the top of Glyder Fawr. Three short cruxes, one on each pitch, but the route is generally straitforward enough to allow the position and line to be fully savoured. After an interesting scramble upwards, we traversed across to the top of Senior's Ridge and descended this to the East Wall Gully scramble - which gave more rock work back to the other sac where we'd started seven hours ago. As we descended further, all the mist and cloud gradually cleared with some wonderful effects, to leave an evening of unusual light clarity.

Helsby climbing

Crag: Helsby
Routes: Little by Little (S 4a:led), Notch Direct (S 4b:led), Oyster Slab Direct (VS 4b:sec), Oyster Slab Super Direct (HS 5a:sec), Green Teeth Gully (M!), Oblique Crack (HVD:led), Cloister Traverse (S 4a:sec)
This crag, so green and unappealing in winter, was rather pleasant this evening: beautifully sunny and warm. Didn't start climbing until 7pm, with a lead of Little by Little - ironically one of the very few routes here that I've done before. This takes chipped steps to a slanting groove, short but pleasant and simple. I then continued direct up the jugs to the atmospheric Notch finish through a sort of open gully. A nice long pitch, makes the best of the crag. Far-reaching views from the top in beautiful evening sunshine, unusual clarity over the industry of the Mersey to Liverpool, and left over the Cheshire plain to the Clwydians. Dale then led Oyster Slab direct on small edges, followed by the Super Direct with a tricky first move. Oblique Crack was an unpleasant slanting crack on the lower tier while Cloister Traverse is a long (30m) but weird pitch which takes the obvious break, starting and finishing on the ground.

The Beast fell race

Race: The Beast (4.5m/1500ft/AS)
Time/Position: 39:06 (5th from 72 [1st v40])
A new route this year, which doubles the intensity of the climbs and makes it into a much tougher, better proposition. A beautiful evening, still and sunny, and fortunately a much improved performance. Decent pace maintained through the woods, then managed to keep running (slowly) all the way up 'the beast' to the limestone pavement at the top of Bryn Alyn. After descending to the bridleway, the new route heads straight back up the steepest, most tussocky slopes to revisit Bryn Alyn for a second time before descending the beast. Myself and Simon stayed together the whole way before I got a slight second wind as the route levelled out after climbing back through the woods to Maeshafn. Unfortunately, a couple of the top runners got lost, as had numerous runners (20?) lower down the field, which meant I gained a few places to finish 5th overall and 1st v40.

Foel Fras fell race

Race: Ras Foel Fras (12.8m/3800ft/AL)
Peaks: Drum, Foel Fras, Garnedd Uchaf, Moel Wnion
Time/Position: 1:59:18 (20/84)
After the drama of last year, when bad weather decimated the field and allowed me to get quite a good finishing position, this excellent circuit of the northern Carneddau was tranquil and dry today. Conditions were ideal for fast times, although for the third successive race I felt distinctly off-form. I struggled on all the climbs, not even managing to run all the way up the relatively gentle climb from Aber to the summit of Drum (although it is more than six miles long). Some mist and wind over Foel Fras and Garnedd Uchaf, although nothing compared to last year, and dry underfoot. I took a reasonable line through the boulders below Drosgl although my shoe came off at one point and I struggled again for the steep sting in the tail up Moel Wnion, the fourth peak. Superb sea views cheered me up, and I managed to put a spurt on for the great descent to the village to dip under two hours for this pleasingly logical round. Only 12 days since the marathon, so I suppose I'll have to blame that for my lack of endurance.

Chester Marathon

Race: Chester Marathon
Time/Position: 3:01:02 (45th from 800)
I could hardly avoid doing this, the inaugural 'home' marathon two days after my 40th birthday. I knew the course would be a grim slog, and wasn't really looking forward to it, but in the event it proved better than expected. Frustratingly, however, I wasn't able to take advantage of the perfect set of circumstances which should have led to a PB: namely, nine hours sleep in my own bed, cool and still conditions, and two days rest and calorific intake on the shores of Tal y Llyn celebrating my 40th over the weekend. It all started well, nicely controlled pace, going through half-way at Hawarden bridge bang on PB target in 1:27:06. I then upped the pace very slightly, working well with a chap from Wellingborough, before starting to struggle just after 20m (which I went through in just under 2:13). Began to slow down, before a crippling stitch hit me just as I ran past my workplace! This reduced me to a literal walk - losing minutes as my 2:53 target disappeared - before I was able to jog painfully through Guilden Sutton to the finish. A disappointing 18th V40 in my first race in the new category.

Arenig climbs

Crag: Simdde Ddu, Arenig Fawr
Routes: Gyllion (HVS 5a,4c,4c:sec)
It seemed like a good idea to squeeze a trip to this new venue into a three-hour post-work late afternoon window before the Famau run. It wasn't, and we very nearly abandoned the reccie amidst the steep scree and impenetrable vegetation that leads to the crag from the shores of the lake. We persisted, though, as the weather was fabulous, and eventually located the impressive South face of Simdde Ddu. Sadly, and frustratingly, we only had time for a single route. Vic merged all the pitches of Gyllion together to give a pleasant appetite-whetter. The first pitch follows a hairline crack up a steep slab on immaculate compact rock: some delicate moves on small positive holds. The second and third continue up slightly dirty but enjoyable juggy cracklines. The route is overgraded (VS 5a at the most) but good, although perhaps not quite warranting the three stars it gets in the guidebook. The outlook from the crag is superb: far-reaching views over Llyn Tegid and Berwyn, nobody in sight. I am developing an increasing appetite for these wonderfully quiet and remote Meirionydd crags: shame this was such a brief day. We jogged back to the car and even had time for a quick coffee before the run from the Collie up Famau, followed by a few birthday drinks with Neil.

Filiast climbs

Crag: Carnedd y Filiast
Routes: Central Route (S:led p.2), Left Edge (VD:led p.1,3), Bracken Corner (S:led), Friction (VD:sol)
A mountaineering day in this wonderful cwm, which gives a tremendous sense of isolation despite its relative proximity to the road. The weather was rather threatening as we set out on the steep walk-in, feeling slightly tired after a night at the Brewery Tap. The sharp slog sorted me out, and Central Route on the Red Slab was an ideal way to continue my recovery - a very gentle 100m wedge of perfect rock. Alwyn and I climbed together up the initial 30m, padding up a delicate seam with superb friction, before tying on to scamper up the top half of the slab (which is even easier). Some light drizzle as we contoured through thick heather to the foot of Left Edge, which takes an attractive line up a long curving slab to the right of the main area of slabs (Creigiau Rowlar). It's similar to Atlantic Ridge to its left (which we did two years ago) but gives better and more continuous climbing, albeit extremely simple. We romped up the route very quickly in four 50m pitches, keeping right on the edge: perfect gritstone-like rock, all very enjoyable, particularly when the sun came out. After descending the ridge, it was still very early (lunchtime), so I led Bracken Corner on Tree Slab (having done the other routes hereabouts). It takes a rough, quartzy crack to a tree, then finishes up a pleasant corner. Some vegetation, as with the other routes here, but quite nice climbing on perfect rock. Finished by nipping up the arete on the left, and descended in warm sunshine as the clouds cleared.

Hill training

Quite a good week's training, going some way to make up for last Sunday's disappointing performance. Finally able to concentrate on improving hill fitness, with runs up Hope Mountain on Tuesday, Waun y Llyn on Wednesday (a long double loop), the Famau run on Friday and shorter runs in between. Early this morning I set a pb for the Collie Famau run of 57:23 (33:57 to the summit).

Chester half marathon

Race: Chester half marathon
Time/Position: 1:22:37 (33rd from 2000)
My worst performance in any race for two years. Had high hopes for a big pb on my 6th running of this event, and set out at 5:50 pace which I sustained until 9-10 miles (the hill to Eccleston). I was comfortably on for my target time of 1:18, but then blew completely. Jogged the last three miles, almost walking pace. Genuinely surprised to blow up: I'd felt fine on the run up Famau on Friday, although perhaps was still feeling the effects of our frenetic climbing trip.

Roussivau climbs

Crag: Barre du Roussivau, Esterel, France
Routes: La Revolte des Naines (f6a:led), Rencontres du Troisieme Slip (f5c:sec), Sexe=Desordre (f5c:sec), Pachyderme Story (f6a:led), Dissident Sakhapov (f5c:sec), Be the One (f5b:sec), Turn it on Again (VD!:led), Take Off* (f5c:led), Out of the Blue (f4:led), Zootomie (f5:led), Zog (f6a:sec)
The day dawned warm and sunny, easily the best weather of the trip. We were inevitably tiring, and were considering Chateaudouble, but in the end settled for the nearby crag of Roussivau. I did many routes on this crag in the 90s, and my notes from the time are very enthusiastic. So it was rather surprising to find the routes a tad disappointing: we may have been tired, or spoiled by the quality of the previous three days. More likely is the fact that I tried to do routes I hadn't done before, and therefore missed some of the classics. After another 5 mile morning run around the Castelli circuit, we drove the 2km to the crag and enjoyed the steep approach walk in glorious sunshine. La Revolte (6a) was a nice start, although slightly wet, up a crack which led to an awkward crux mantel (knees!) to a sloping ledge. The two routes on the left of this sector weren't as good as I remembered: a rock scar suggests 'evolution' had occurred in the intervening 16 years! I then led Pachyderme Story, a nice 6a line which aims for a hanging pod-like groove, which gives enjoyable bridging up to jugs. Dissident Sakhapov looks awful: mossy and green, but gives quite good steep climbing up rough, positive holds. Seconded Vic up Be the One on the main 'wave' face, before experiencing my first DNF of the trip on a short 6a+ behind the easy arete (which I then climbed to retrieve the gear). Definitely tiring now: failed again on Take Off, an undergraded very short f5c which takes a steep and insecure groove. A nasty route, giving seemingly desperate climbing on sloping holds (although tiredness was definitely a factor now). I made it to the top move, within inches of the LO, but was now completely drained of energy. Started to wind down thereafter, with a lead of the pleasant f4 which takes an obvious groove on the 'wave' face (my final tick on this face after a 16 year gap!). We finished on the lovely little slab, where I did two routes I've done numerous times before - Zootomie up the crack in the arete, and the technical slab taken by Zog. Spent some time enjoying the wonderful atmosphere of this special place, and the views over the Esterel, before starting the descent through the maquis. A great trip:, even better than last year: maximising the time available, concentrating on quality routes, very lucky with the weather, which was unsettled but dry when we needed it to be. Fortunate to dodge the ash cloud too!

Blavet climbs

Crag: Rive Droite, Gorges du Blavet
Routes: Pepin le Bref (f5c,f5c:led p.2)
Crag: Colle Rousse, Gorges du Blavet
Routes: 19 La Placette (f5c:sec)
Crag: La Capelle Aval, Gorges du Blavet
Routes: DRZ Sena Mrane Droite (f5c:led), DRZ Gauche (f4b:sec), Du Pof Des Baffes Un Pet (f5c+:led), Ascenseur Pour les Scatos (f6b+:sec), Les Pets de la Dame aux Cleps (f6b:sec)
The rain continued for most of the night, but it was drying as we set off for Blavet. The skies were slightly threatening as we descended to the crag, intent on a route in the gorge proper this year (after scratching the surface on the Face Sud and Petit Canyon last year). Pepin le Bref was the obvious choice as the first, and most amenable, route on the Rive Droite. I'd located the initial chimney pitch on a reccie last summer, and managed to find it again after a jungle-bashing scramble. Vic led the first pitch, and it was excellent - remarkably dry after the downpour. A steep chimney, with juggy holds, narrows to give some bridging over a bulge to easier ground. Above this, a superbly steep layback crack - in a splendid position - gives excellent climbing until a move left gains a belay ledge. I led the final pitch up a mossy slab via an awkward mantel move, to gain a long sentry-box feature. This was awkward and wet in places - with more bridging - until a steep move out left gains a big hold and pull up to easy ground and the top of the gorge. A great HVS climb: 'ambience grand canyon, tarif abordable'! I descended all the way back to the base, tiring, to get the sacks. We then had lunch above the canyon before walking in to Colle Rousse, a new venue (visible from miles around and often mistaken for the gorge itself - which is actually hidden from view). This was hard to find, not popular, and the routes were even harder to locate and identify. However, Vic eventually set out on 19 La Placette in light rain. This got heavier as I followed on, but the rock was so rough and perfect (after a friable first few metres) that it hardly mattered. The climb packed a lot in to a short space: a good crack led enjoyably to a pull on to the upper wall, with sharp little holds leading to the crux over a bulge at the top. The rain that had threatened all morning started in earnest as I began another 5c further right, so we abandoned the crag and scampered down to the car. After a drink, however, the sun came out, and I suggested stopping for a look at La Capelle Aval before heading for home. We were tiring, but this was a good decision. A four minute walk-in gains the crag, which was far better than I'd expected: an excellent venue. I started by leading the obvious, slightly precarious arete of DRZ on a subsidiary slab hidden behind the main faces: this was delicate with some excellent sharp pockets, but rendered slightly tricky by lichen and moss. A much easier line takes the wide crack in the slab further left, which I also did. I got my second wind at last, and went for Du Pof, which takes the obvious arete to the left of the main face - up to the wide crack which is visible from quite a long way off. This was a great pitch, unexpected, varied and surprising, and a real bonus after a weather-affected day. Steep moves up an awkward chimney gain the main slab, which then becomes wonderfully delicate as it makes its way up to the wide crack. Some thuggy jamming up the crack eventually allows another move out left to the arete itself before an easier slabby finish. Excellent stuff. We took the opportunity to second two more technical pitches further right, and both were excellent. Ascenseur was theoretically the hardest pitch of the trip at 6b+, but didn't seem too bad. Very steep and strenuous at first, then sustained but easier moves lead to a hard, almost blank slab. We should perhaps have taken this further left, but chalk lead diagonally right to the upper wall. Les Pets had another technical and strenuous start before more excellent face climbing. Finished off with a 4-5 mile run (the Castelli circuit) around the Esterel hills: fairly tired by the time we got to 'refuel'.

Pic du Perthus climbs

Crag: Pic du Perthus, Esterel, France
Routes: La Directe (f6a+,f5c+:led p.1), Y'a Pas de Lezard (f6a:led), Gaston Rebiffe-Toi! p.1 (f5c:led), La Chevauchee des Vaches Qui Rient (F6a:sec), Plus Beau Que Moi Tu Meurs (f6a:led), Les Dents Longues (f6b:sec)
This is something of a fantasy crag for me. My third visit, and its advantages become more apparent with each trip: the grades are perfect (almost everything is in the f5c-f6b/HVS-E2 range), the rock is superb, the position and ambiance wonderful. It feels isolated and remote, yet it is only 35 minutes or so from the Col de Mistral, and only a few miles from the crowded coast (and the caravan!). High cloud as we approached, but nothing too threatening. As ever, we had the entire crag and valley to ourselves. As we geared up, Vic realised he'd left his rock shoes at Dramont yesterday! Nothing for it but to share mine, and lower them down to each other. I began ambitiously, leading the 6a+ opening pitch of La Directe. This goes easily to a steep, smooth bulge, which I initially took too far right and was forced to retreat (very brief rest). I then solved the problem, with a high reach for a little flake edge, before transferring feet onto a small foothold and going for a high jug above the bulge. Good climbing on pockets gained a belay ledge (and sunshine) before Vic led the sustained second pitch up a very steep crack right up the centre of the face. This led to a great move round an arete in a superb position to an easier finishing wall further left. A very good climb. We descended through appalling vegetation to the superlative west facing pillar at the extreme left of the face. This is taken by Y'a Pas de Lezard, which gives a stunning pitch of real quality. An easy wall leads to the main face, which gets progressively steeper and contains three distinct cruxes. It is never desperate or particularly technical, but is sustained at f6a throughout. Some superb pockets, characteristic of the crag, allow a steep crack to be gained. Brilliant climbing up this to a final move over a bulge: an outstanding 30m pitch. I then led the first long pitch of Gaston Rebiffe-toi, an old classic of the crag (just left of the Directe) with its crux low down: steep wall, small holds. This gains an easier but excellent pillar which curves round to the right to gain huge pockets and superb rock, and continues to traverse to the belay ledge. Vic followed up with a lead of La Chevauchee, much further right, which gave yet another excellent long pitch - perhaps 35m. It goes up a steep pillar to gain superb rough pockets before a hard crux move up a steep wall on very small holds. I went too far left up a lichen-covered groove and ended up making a hash of the crux - annoying as I'd done everything else so cleanly and quickly. The route kept coming above, with a superbly delicate and technical slab. A tremendously varied route, sustained at 6a through very different styles of climbing. We were tiring now, and almost called it a day. But I got a second wind, and we scrambled up to the smaller slab which sits above the descent gully. I've done all the routes here save one, so led that today. I was delighted to find that Plus Beau... gave yet another perfect pitch at 6a. Much more technical and slabby than the main face, but similar to the other routes on this slab. Bolts rather spaced, so it felt precarious as I balanced up small pockets to the first clip. Above this lay wonderful climbing up little pockets - the delicacy and precision welcome after a strenuous day. It started to rain as I began Les Dentes Longues (last climbed in 1994!), which gives another deliciously technical pitch on small pockets. A particularly hard start, which was rapidly getting wet, gives access to more pocketed pleasure. It poured down as we left, exactly as it did at this crag last year: perfect timing!

Cap Dramont climbs

Crag: Cap Dramont, Esterel, France
Routes: Le Factum du Recteur (f4a:led), Bento (f5b:sec), Jet Set Clafouti (f6a:sec), Pilier de Soleil (f5c+:led), Trois Zobs sur un Coup Fin (f6a+:sec), TGV (f5c:led), The Roux Petent Chaud (f6a:sec)
A 4am start from home meant we were rather sleep-deprived for the first day of our short Provencal climbing trip. Cool and cloudy as we walked to the crag in the early afternoon, indeed the forecast for the week was pretty awful. However, the sun started to peep through as we warmed up on two of the easy slab routes. Vic then led the long (30m) pitch of Jet Set Clafouti. This takes a steep but straightforward crack to a ledge, before a hard couple of moves on small crimps over a bulge gain the upper slab. This leads very pleasantly to the top: a fine route, climbed quickly and cleanly. It was now time for a key target of mine: Pilier de Soleil, the undisputed classic of the crag. This superb climb follows a line of good holds up the right hand side of an elegant pillar to some flakes. After a short easy slab, a traverse left gains the front of the pillar in a superb position ('between sea and sky') before the final wall, and crux, just below the top. A few steep moves up on small positive holds give a pulsating finish. I really wanted to do this Dramont classic in good style, and did so, romping up the route cleanly and quickly. Among the finest single pitches I've ever done: the grade bang on at 5c+. Trois Zobs takes a harder line up the face left of the pillar, starting up a steep crack on small, positive holds. After a ledge, the remainder of the route is sustained, strenuous and steep: another quality pitch. I moved up to the west face to lead TGV, which looks short and scrappy but is actually quite a good route (definitely overgraded) on sharp holds. However, a fierce cold wind blew straight into this face, along with some rain, and reduced us to shivering sleep-deprived wrecks. We weren't quite finished, though, and just bagged the strong line of the Roux Petant Chaud before heavier rain arrived. This takes the obvious slabby groove which forms the left edge of the pillar, and is again a very soft touch at 6a. Nice climbing up a little wall to a delicate slab which leads to an interesting wide groove/chimney. A great start to the trip (I have almost ticked the entire crag now), despite the weather and the lack of sleep.

Moelwyn climbing

Crag: Craig yr Wrysgan
Routes: White Streak (HS 4a,4a:led p.1), Honeysuckle Corner (HS 4b:sec), Dorcon (HS 4b,4a,4b:led p.1,2), Y Gilfach (VD+:led)
A cold north wind blew this weekend, and there was limited time available (four hours in total), so a brief trip to the Moelwynion seemed a good idea. The crag stayed sunny and relatively windless all day, so the choice was quickly vindicated. The first pitch of White Streak was very pleasant: characteristic pocketed Moelwyn rock. Slightly wet in places after recent rain, but nothing remotely troubling. A little traverse left leads to a move on to the slab and a delicate but easy traverse across shallow cracks right to a stance in the triangular corner. I then followed Vic up the pleasant but short (and wet) top slab, followed by Honeysuckle Corner: a very obvious line. This is steep to start, but juggy throughout, and is an excellent pitch. A splendidly varied combination of pitches, good climbing. A fierce, cold wind on top, so we descended quickly through the incline and atmospheric tunnel and went for the obvious corner line of Dorcon. I led the first pitch up the big groove. This was wet inside the crack and an awkward thrutch in places, but a fine line. Steep moves allow an exit right to a ledge, and I continued up the next, more open pitch up a juggy rib in a nice position. Vic led the supposed crux, which was just one move to gain a steep crack before the route disappointingly peters out. Y Gilfach was a nice finale: a delightfully simple romp up the obvious corner on the right of the crag. A slab leads to a groove which is steep for the grade: excellent rock and big holds throughout.