Monday, August 10, 2026

Carreg y Foel Gron

Crag: Carreg y Foel Gron, Moelwynion
Routes: Shark's Fin (HS 4b:sec), Slab Direct (E1 5a:sec), Too Many Children (VS 4c:sec), Elephant's Walk Direct (HS 4b:sec), Skinny Arete (VD:led)
I was passenger for most of the day today, for several very good reasons. It is a nice venue, I remember playing around on this crag a few years ago with a shunt and maybe some soloing. We went to the upper tier first, where Peter led the obvious plum line of the Shark's Fin. If this was two or three times longer it would be a total classic. As it is, a shuffle up and right gains the arete which is climbed in a lovely position. It is much easier than it looks. The upper tier has a delightful tranquil atmosphere, with views of the central Moelwynion, and the rock is perfect: rough, unpolished and wonderfully textured. Slab Direct was also good with some tricky finishing moves straight up the obvious feature (which gets steep at the top). A lovely VS crackline finished our business here, another route which would be a famous classic if only it was longer. The lower tier is far more popular and often has groups on it. The rock is still excellent and rough though, and the direct on Elephant's Walk gave a great pitch which I may have done before: wonderful holds and pleasant cracks. Finally, I led the easy but enjoyable line of Skinny Arete which goes up a very gentle slab before pulling comfortably on to a steeper but short final ridge. Plenty of time for a pint in the Albion before collecting Kate.

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