Kaisergebirge traverse

Peaks: Hintere Goinger Halt (2192m/7192ft), Vordere Goinger Halt (2242m/7356ft), Stripsenkopf (1807m/5928ft)
Routes: Jubilaumssteig (vB), Angermannweg(uI-), Gratubergang (uII), Eggersteig (vB), Ubungsklettersteig (vC/D)
Area: Kaisergebirge, Tyrol, Austria
A 'mixed' weather forecast provoked me into downscaling my plans for this, the first day of a brief foray into the Austrian Tyrol. A late flight and night in the Munich suburbs meant this was just as well, as it was after 9.30 when I finally got to Wochunbrunner Alm at the southern end of the Kaisergebirge - a compact yet spectacular range of peaks and an obvious first destination from Munich. This traverse was essentially the opposite of what I'd planned, centred on the enormous gateway of Ellmauer Tor. This is such an enormous col, the focal point of the range, that it transcends the term and warrants a different descriptor (hence 'gateway'). The weather, contrary to the forecast, was superb as I set off at a fast pace from the Alm, although very hot and humid. The character of this wonderful range asserts itself immediately as I climbed through dwarf pines on the Ellmauer Weg to emerge on scree slopes to join the Jubilaumssteig traverse path to the Tor. Huge spires of limestone tower on both sides, meaning (rather obviously) that I started to dehydrate through lack of running water. I emerged at the Tor to fantastic views down to the Stripsenjoch through the Steinerne Rinne, which looks utterly unfeasible as a route of descent. But before continuing the traverse and beginning the descent into the void I nipped up the obvious peak of the Hintere Goinger Halt, which is a short scramble away to the northeast from the Tor. A rising traverse leads to a groove with chains before some mild scrambling accesses the small summit. Fabulous views all around and a great way to get my bearings. Across the gulf of the Ellmaeur Tor rises the Karlspitze and beyond that the highpoint of the range: Ellmaeur Halt, which I'd planned for tomorrow. To the east, the Ackerlspitze crowned a long ridge of dazzling white spires. Enjoyable though the Hintere Goinger was, it was obvious that this peak was just a tourist peak and was actually topped by the far more impressive sister peak of the Vordere Goinger Halt which rose above the windgap of the Predigtstuhl Scharte. So I returned to the gap for an attempt at this, spying a tiny path, with a few cairns. This gave an excellent, intricate scramble (research suggests it's called the Gratubergang) up steep grooves and chimneys and traversing across a series of loose couloirs to gain the steep summit slopes and slabby scrambling to the top. The summit book suggested that it is infrequently climbed - it was last signed in June (compared to the dozens that must go up Hintere every day). Superb atmosphere, with the entire range (seemingly) to myself and rock walls and pinnacles rising from the beautiful green meadows of the Tyrol: a memorable summit. I scampered back down to the Tor and began the famous descent of the Eggersteig on the far (northern) side of the Tor. This gets steeper and steeper as you enter the deep cauldron of the Steinerne Rinne, until it drops sharply away between the towering rock walls of the Fleischbank on the western side and Predigstuhl on the east. Chains protect the intricate scrambling, although they weren't really necessary (but I had Ferrata gear just in case). The line takes a series of shelfs and ledges, twisting right and left down the huge couloir until it reaches an exposed traverse cut into the rocks to the west. This leads, superbly atmospherically, to the Wildanger meadows and a final climb to the Stripsenjoch and its eponymous hut: a great spot. I was badly dehydrated so a lunch of cold Zillertal beer and splendid goulash was hugely appreciated. After booking in, I noticed that a Klettersteig (Via Ferrata) made its way up the crags lining the route up to the small peak of the Stripsenkopf which rises above the hut to the north. A perfect way to while away the afternoon (the Ubungklettersteig). The first section climbs the Hundskopf, a little pinnacled crag above the hut, via a groove and steep wall. After a walk, the second section traverses left before a steep arete finish, while the final section is also steep and finishes below the summit shelter. Having once had a two-week Via Ferrata holiday in the Dolomites in 1996, I've never done another one, finding the metalwork and whole experience a bit weird and unsatisfactory compared to proper climbing - but they are good fun in some circumstances (still weird though, especially this one!). I rested on the summit of the Stripsenkopf, relishing the scenic contrast between the 1000m rock walls of the Wilder Kaiser to the south and the verdant green meadows of the Tamer Kaiser to the north. Some cloud as I sauntered down to the hut, but this soon dissolved to leave a perfect sunny evening. Just glorious on the hut terrace, eating my bergsteigeressen, drinking wheat beer, and looking out over the vast sunlit crags of the Fleischbank and Totenkirchl.

Langdale scramble

Peaks: Pavey Ark, Harrison Stickle
Area: Langdale, Lake District
A bit of a disaster in the Saunders Mountain Marathon this year, but you can't win them all. After a good night's sleep in Baysbrown campsite, a beautiful morning boded well for the Klets - a great opportunity given the tough nature of the course (the elite solo class). However, I realised there was a problem as soon as I set off. I felt tired and heavy legged almost immediately and was exhausted, with an upset stomach, by the time I reached the plateau and first checkpoint. By the time I'd jogged the 2k to the next checkpoint, I was almost relieved to struggle to find it. I was clearly under the weather, and later found that M had been evacuated from cub camp with a stomach bug at the same time. I decided to abandon early, as anything else would have prolonged the inevitable and at least this way I could get home early. The weather was so perfect, however, that I had to extend the day slightly. So I walked down to a perfectly still Stickle Tarn (there's a photo of me swimming in this in 1989) and slogged up the scree to Jack's Rake. This is one of the most obvious scrambling lines in the UK, but I couldn't remember doing it before. It was better than I'd expected - a narrow gangway with the odd steeper section, all quite enjoyable. I wandered up to the top of Pavey Ark, then over to Harrison Stickle. Great views, but this gentle ramble confirmed the wisdom of my decision to abandon - as did the descent to Dungeon Ghyll and 'jog' back to the HQ at Chapel Stile. Felt exhausted throughout. Just terrible timing and a real disappointment, as I felt I was well prepared for the Klets and was looking forward to it.

Grochan climbing

Crag: Clogwyn y Grochan, Nant Peris
Routes: Brant Direct (HVS 5a:sec), Slape p.2 (VS 5a:sec), Spectre (HVS 4c,5a,5a:led p.1), Kaisergebirge Wall (HVS 5b:sec)
Very conscious of the forthcoming mountain marathon, so I was happy to be passenger for most of this short day. Some drizzle and low cloud as I followed Vic up the splendid Brant Direct. Cold hands didn't help, as this route packs a lot of climbing into one short pitch up a striking corner groove line. It is quite sustained although never especially hard: just really satisfying climbing, benchmark HVS and surprisingly elegant if you get the bridging right and use the odd hand jam. Steep throughout, but with sharp little holds on the walls of the groove just where you need them. We also did the second pitch of Slape, a thin crack which leads to an awkward, steep move to gain a diagonal flake with little for the feet. Strenuous moves left gain huge holds and a mantel finish. I then led the first pitch of the classic Spectre as the sun came out (briefly). A tricky start up a steep crack, pinch grips and small footholds, leads to a better hold on the left slab. Some nice moves up the continuation crack gain flakes, then a ledge further right leading to easy climbing up slabs to the base of the obvious groove. This gives a superb pitch, one of the best HVS pitches in Snowdonia, nicely sustained at the standard and in a great position, which becomes quite exposed and a tad more delicate as you leave the splendid groove to negotiate the small overhang. Satisfying climbing: steep and juggy. After a romp across a slab, the final pitch is what gives the route its 'character'. A fierce 30ft crack, rather polished, in which a committing layback leads strenuously up to a widening of the crack which becomes a niche into which you must insert yourself for a hands-off but uncomfortable rest. The crack doesn't relent in steepness, but does provide some good fist-jams to pull out of the niche. Kaisergerbirge Wall was a ludicrously appropriate finale, as I will be in the real Kaisergerbirge this time next week! It gives a splendid pitch and a welcome contrast from all the steepness on this crag. An easy but long and satisfying rising traverse - lovely climbing - gains a platform in an exposed position. Then comes the crux, supposedly 5b, but which felt more like VS 4c (as did the whole route) to me. Possibly reach-dependent. The steep groove has nice little holds for the feet and good positive small jugs throughout - an excellent route but by far the easiest of the day.

Dash in the Daylight

Race: Dash in the Daylight trail/fell race (4m/1200ft)
Time/Position: 24:16 (4th from 45 [1st V40])
Another exciting race with another very close finish. Huge crowds of mountain bikers, al fresco dining, a barbeque and warm evening sunshine made for a stark contrast with the usual midwinter 'dashes in the dark', of which I must have done six or seven. But it was great to be able to see your surroundings (and feet!) for a change. Neil and Jez went ahead again, after a thigh-deep plunge through a stream gave access to the fast downhill running past the lake. I gradually gained places to find myself third, and was reasonably confident of staying there. As we moved back around the lake and down the very steep climb through the woods I started to gain on Neil. I felt good for the final rise to the finish (a steepish 300m climb) but Neil managed to up the pace and I was unable to catch him. Worse, the young lad who had been close behind for the entire race put a youthful spurt on in the last 50 metres and went past me. In the end, there was just a few seconds between the three of us (and a two minute gap to fifth). Great race again, although possibly a little close to the weekend's Klets for comfort.

Horseshoe 'four climbs' circuit

Road ride: HK-Bwlch Penbarras-The Shelf-Horseshoe Pass-World's End-HK
Distance: 70k
Hot weather, at last, so another valuable opportunity to push the climbing mileage and at least partially replicate Alpine conditions. Given other commitments, this was likely to be one of the last biggish cycling outings before the Alpine trip so again I tried to maximise the climbing mileage, given that I only had the morning free. Left quite early, but it was already hot and humid as I climbed from home over to Mold then up to the surprisingly steep climb at Gwernymynydd. After Cadole, I left the main road for the climb up to Bwlch Penbarras from this easier eastern side, arriving at the top 52 minutes after leaving home. Superbly clear views over to Eryri, temperatures really quite high now. Soared down the steep side of the Bwlch to Llanbedr DC, then enjoyed a flat interlude on the Graianrhyd road before taking what I hoped was the turning for the Shelf (which I've never done before). This gives a splendid climb of 6k or so, kicking up occasionally but generally a steady and longish climb by Welsh standards. Exceptionally quiet road, with beautiful views: a great discovery. I had a quick snack at Llandegla before starting the next climb on the day's agenda - up to the top of the Horseshoe. After the usual superb descent, very quiet today, I headed back up to Pentredwr from the Britannia, then the contouring path round to Eglwyseg and the final climb of the day up to World's End. This is generally steady with short steep kicks, before really kicking up after the ford below the crag. I've run up this on several occasions, so was quite surprised to find it easier than expected. Still very steep, mind, and I was admittedly in my smallest gear by now. Welcome shade throughout, until the easier climbing over Minera moor which follows. This gives superb riding, despite the potholes, and leads to the descent to Minera and final climb from Coedpoeth to gain the descent to Cefn y Bedd.

Hope Mountain circuit

MTB Route: Hope Mountain double circuit
Distance: 25m
The weather was still rather damp this morning after our soaking on yesterday's race. I wasn't especially tired though, and remain very conscious of having to increase my bike climbing mileage before the Alpine cycling trip next month. Too wet and windy for the road bike, so I just maximised the climbs on the Mountain Bike, heading from home up Waun y Llyn. I remembered too late that a new gearing fault means I can't access the small ring, so ended up making an audacious (and unintentional) middle ring ascent of this very steep climb! Down to Llanfynydd, then up the slightly less steep climb to the top of the road up to Cae Hic/Blaenau. Quickly down to Coed Talon via Treuddyn, then back up to the top of Waun y Llyn - which is equally steep from this side and again saw futile but increasingly desperate attempts to get onto the small ring. Good off-road riding south along the ridgetop bridleway before a quick descent home via Horeb.

Tattenhall Tough Team race

Race: Tattenhall Tough Team (9m+)
Time/Position: 59:45 (14th from 160 [5th Team from 52])
Strangely enough, I'd never done this well-known and long established team event before. It's a real cracker - involving teams of three with the overall finish time taken from the slowest runner (clearly, as I was in a team with Jez and Eric from Buckley there was a distinct and rather stressful possibility that would be me!). The road sections were inevitably a bit of a shock to the system, as I haven't raced on roads in anger since last November, but I thoroughly enjoyed the XC racing through the woods of the Peckforton hills. We all set off at a quick but steady pace in heavy rain - climbing up quite steeply to Burwardsley and sticking together well. It was a relief to enter the woods and leave the tarmac although Jez sped off at this point, so I held back a bit for Eric. However, I ended up moving ahead on the first steep climb through the woods - which echoed fell racing and suited me nicely. After some splendid trail running through fields and woods, the infamous 'railway' arrived sooner than anticipated. This kicks up immediately, and then gets steeper and steeper until it briefly equates to the hardest sections of any Welsh fell race before the top. Slippery moss and mud between the rails made life tricky at times. A fast, fun descent through woods leads to narrow paths across a series of fields before regaining the road and retracing the outward route at Burwardsley. I was slowed by a stitch here, again hardly surprising given my lack of recent road running.

Hotfoot up Famau fell race

Race: Hotfoot up Famau (3.5m/1200ft/AS)
Time/Position: 38:48 (10th from 103 [4th V40])
An unusually strong field for this brutal little race this year. A good thing, too, removing the flattering security blanket that saw me finish 3rd at the Beast last week and win my category at Moel Hebog. As with last Saturday, I was a few seconds slower than last year (7 to be precise!) when I finished 4th overall. This evening, I felt a little tired after a long and stressful day at work, and lost ground even before the first descent, as a number of runners took a short-cut. This made it hard to overtake on the narrow (potentially very fast) paths down to the valley, although I did get a clear run at the steep climb up Moel y Gaer after plunging painfully through a head-height gorse bush. Good running along the ridge, battling all the way with Simon E, and down to Nant y Ne on lovely yielding soil before the leap over the stream at the bottom. I began to blow a little as we approached the gully, earlier than usual. Simon went past in the gully, but I managed to stick with him and pulled away at the start of the descent. He soon caught me, and we had a tremendous battle on the descent, passing two lads half our age in the process. I had vaguely hoped to save some energy where possible on this race, with a view to Friday's team race, although that is easier said than done on a course like this!

Moel Hebog fell race

Race: Ras Moel Hebog (4m/2400ft/AS)
Time/Position: 56:10 (4th from 25 [1st V40])
Shame about the small turnout, as this is a great event and a classic race. My time was a little slower than last year, presumably because I picked an appalling initial line down from the summit. The weather was cloudy but mild and still as we set off from the village to pick up the tracks that lead to the main ridge line. I found myself gradually moving through the field into third place and had to pick the line through the boulders as we approached the summit (because the first two runners were miles ahead of the rest of the field). My line of ascent was reasonably direct, emerging on the summit ridge above the normal little scrambly wall, and I pulled out a bit of a gap on my two pursuers. Some mist playing around as I stupidly plunged off the ridge towards the village far too early, to be faced by the inevitable unstable boulders and very awkward terrain. Inevitably, I was soon overtaken before I had managed to locate the right line lower down. Try as I might, I couldn't regain third spot, even though the rest of the descent went well and ended up 15 seconds or so behind third. Ice creams all round and a family walk round Beddgelert to finish.

The Beast fell race

Race: Up the Beast (4.5m/1500ft/AS)
Time/Position: 37:06 (3rd from 78 [1st V40])
Another route tweak for this splendid event this year. We'd already been taken round the new course a couple of times by John, so knew what to expect. Neil and Jez quickly pulled out a big gap, and I found myself in third place quite early during the fast initial mile through the woods above Maeshafn. I pulled out a small gap on Simon E on the climb up the Beast, extending this slightly over the new enjoyable scrambling section over the limestone pavement - which takes a series of chimneys and walls to the top of Bryn Alyn and is particularly well suited to climbers! Fast running over the plateau and down to the valley before the brutal (very humid) climb back up Bryn Alyn via the steepest eastern slopes. On reflection, this race must now be one of the steepest on the calendar with its limestone chimneys and hands-and-knees sections! I began to catch Neil here and tried to pull away from him on the final short climb back through the woods. There ensued an exciting eyeballs-out sprint for second place as we raced each other through the woods, with Neil finally pulling clear in the last 200m - great fun and a good speed session.

Llanberis slate climbing

Crag: Llanberis Slate
Routes: First Stop (f5:led), Septuagenarian (f6a:led), Big Easy (f4:sec), Jagged Face (f4:sec), Ferrero Roche (MVS 4b:led), Plastic Soldier (f6a:led), Act Naturally (VS 4c:sec), Clash of the Titans (f6a:sec), Harri Bach Llanrug (f6a:led)
It was still drizzling as I neared Llanberis this morning, and since it had rained all day yesterday slate was the only realistic option. We warmed up on short and nondescript routes in Bus Stop Quarry - as Mick hadn't done much bolt clipping - before moving up to the Skyline Buttress at the top of Australia for the main business of the day. The routes in Bus Stop are wildly overgraded, and I'd done the reasonably good 'f6a' before, but worked OK as a warm-up exercise. After a bite at the car, we took the steep walk through the levels gently, mindful of tomorrow's fell race, but located it easily (it is by far the most impressive piece of rock up here). I led Plastic Soldier to begin. Even after our recent Provencal bolt clipping extravaganza, which often renders UK sports climbing a preposterously shoddy concept by comparison, I found this a fine route. It is at least 40m, absorbing and in a great exposed position looking out over the quarries and Snowdonia. The climbing is gentle for the grade, as long as you are reasonably tall, as so often with slate. Small edges, little positive holds lead up a steep slab to an overlap. This looks like the crux, but it is easy in execution - just a few moves on big holds. The position is cracking, though, and it leads to easy climbing up a smaller slab to the top. Mick then led the obvious VS line of Act Naturally - which is scruffy but interesting, taking the big stepped groove to an easy traverse ledge before finishing up the bigger continuation of the groove - partly by using ledges and big holds on the right wall of the groove. Another big pitch - we had around an inch spare on our 50m rope! I then seconded Mick up Clash of the Titans, an obvious companion to the first route, taking the right-hand side of the same slab. Not quite such a good position or route, but it did have a harder crux half way up - typical slate edging to gain a tiny flake, before easier climbing up a juggy crack to the top. After failing on a harder route (f7a?) I led Harri Bach on a different slabby wall much further right. Another reach-dependent route - which climbs a crack before a steepening series of moves on flat ledges to the top.

Welsh 1000m peaks fell race

Race: Welsh 1000m peaks fell race (22m/8000ft/AL)
Peaks: Carnedd Llewellyn, Carnedd Dafydd, Glyder Fawr, Carnedd Ugain, Yr Wyddfa
Time/Position: 4:45:36 (12th from 150 [2nd V40])
Although I'd done this race twice before, it became an essential addition to the calender again this year for three reasons: first and foremost the inclusion of remeasured Glyder Fawr and consequent different route (which is far better than the old one - more logical and satisfying). It was also the race's 40th anniversary, and part of the Welsh Champs series this year. Some welcome sea mist as we set off from the usual field in Aber, which kept temperatures fairly cool for the gently rising jog above the falls to Cwm Afon Goch. However, we soon passed through the cloud on the steep pull up to the Beras - spectacularly clear views over the Carneddau. I felt pretty good, relieved to find a bit of a breeze blowing on the tops. Excellent steady running across the sun-drenched Carneddau, past a new checkpoint on Yr Aryg to pick up the contouring path to Llewellyn - passing hundreds on the mountaineer's class. I continued to pick up places on the ridge to Dafydd, then caught the leading Vet on the new steep descent to Ogwen. I turned very badly on my ankle at the bottom of this descent, and was temporarily disabled - but, as usual, that oft-damaged appendage righted itself after a bit of jogging. Hot and airless at this point, and the brief section of road through Ogwen didn't help. Next came the crux of the 'new route' - via Llyn Bochlwyd to the Gribin and up to the top of Glyder Fawr. As I've done this many, many times I knew that it potentially offered a slight respite. So I ate and drank a bit, and enjoyed the breeze and the opportunity to use my arms on the rocky crest of the ridge. My Vet rival went well clear at this point, and I saw him disappear over the summit as I gained the Glyder plateau. That was the end of that, I thought. To my surprise, however, I caught him again during the long 'red spot' descent from Glyder Fawr to PyP, and after a drink I tried to push the advantage on the lower part of the Pyg track. The Vet prize seemed in the bag as I pulled away, so I concentrated on running the flats and keeping a decent pace going elsewhere. Unbelievable numbers of tourists made the ascent even more surreal than usual. Literally nose-to-tail all the way, and hard to negotiate as fatigue really kicks in at this point. Worse, as I looked behind I could see my rival gradually moving through the crowds of tourists! There was a depressing inevitability to proceedings after that, as he went past me on the final zigzag at the top of the Pyg track. I couldn't respond, and just kept the same plodding pace to the top of Carnedd Ugain, then through more huge crowds to Snowdon and the finish. Disappointing, but to make a cycling comparison I may have missed out on the stage win but I did myself no harm in the GC - as this was the third Welsh Champs race and my time was not too bad (23m faster than my pb for the old, easier route). After a pastie and juice from the cafe, we all enjoyed a pleasant walk down to Llanberis followed by a pint in Conwy.

Aberglaslyn/Tremadog climbing

Crag: Aberglaslyn Gorge
Route: Canyon Rib (S 4a:led p.1,3)
Crag: Craig Bwlch y Moch
Routes: Tro (HS 4a:sec), Axeover (VS 4c:sec), Oakover (VS 4c:led), Hedera (HVS 5a:sec)
Still resting before Saturday's big race, but an opportunity for a quick cragging trip presented itself. Drizzle and low cloud fortunately gave way to broken sunshine as I met Mick in Aberglaslyn - perfect conditions for the midges to feast on us as we walked up the gorge path looking for the start of Canyon Rib, which was inevitably damp. I led up the initial sharp rib, which leads easily to a large boulder overcome on big holds. Mick led up a pleasant continuation rib before crossing a gully to climb a further simple rib. This gave me the final pitch, which goes over blocks to a groove, then traverses left in a nice position to finish up a hanging arete. All very simple, but pleasant climbing in a nice, novel position above the rushing river and gorge. It works satisfyingly well as a warm-up, as we geared up at the car park, only took an hour to do the route in three pitches rather than the guidebook seven, and walked back over into Cwm Bychan and back to the car park. We drove down to Tremadog in warm sunshine and Mick nipped up the short route, Tro, at the extreme right of the crag. This gives a pleasant pitch up a short groove to blocks and a traverse right to gain a steeper wide crack. Vic then arrived, and led Axeover further left. This is a fine recently cleaned pitch up a twisting, steep groove just right of the Oakover slab. Superb rock, and very good climbing up some steep flakey cracks with a hard move left over a bulge at the top which felt 5a at least. Oakover was my lead, and a thoroughly satisfying, varied and enjoyable one. This goes up the slab right of the obvious corner taken by Hedera - small, positive holds, quite delicate. A short traverse gains the steep corner, with big holds leading up this to a tree. Then, a lovely traverse across the slab right to its edge leads to a steepish flake and blocky, easier climbing to the belay. Works very well as one long absorbing pitch. Vic then led the dramatically contrasing Hedera, which is a strenuous route up the corner just a few metres left. Awkward squirming body jams up the wide first chimney gain better holds up to the tree. Then quite powerful laybacking right along the undercut crack, strenuous with little for the feet (and a big potential pendulum!) gain more positive cracks and finally a small footledge. A trio of fine, neglected routes: ideal on a day like this, as temperatures had climbed to 25c and shade was much-appreciated - particularly as I'd forgotten my chalk. I ran down the gully from the top, jumped into the car, and drove the entire length of the national park to Conwy to pick up M and E for our scheduled camping trip to Llanfairfechan. The tent was pitched before 6.30pm and I finally got to sit down for the first time all day. A cup of tea in the sunshine outside the tent was much appreciated.

Llangollen road loop

Road cycling: HK-Minera-Acrefair-Llangollen-Horseshoe Pass-Bwlchgwyn-HK
Distance: 72k/44m
Resting up before the 1000m peaks fell race on Saturday, so it seemed a good opportunity to do another road ride in preparation for the summer trip. This was an almost exact reversal of the route done on 24 February in preparation for the Cheshire Cat. It seemed a little tougher this way round, with the climb from Hope to Bwlchgwyn deceptively steep and long from this side. A strong headwind, yet again. Nice riding from Minera through Rhos and Acrefair to Llangollen, where I enjoyed a restorative chicken pie before the big climb from the town up the Horseshoe: again, considerably harder from this side particularly with a headwind (which finally turned in my favour after the last hairpin). Just over three hours, with an early start.

Dovestones climbing

Crag: Dovestones Edge, Chew Valley
Routes: Answer Crack (HVD:sh), Question Mark (HVD:sh), Splintered Buttress (D:sol), Central Tower (VD:sol), Square Chimney (D:sh), The Direct Route (VD:sol), Crack and Chimney (M:sol), Capstone Chimney (M:sol)
A rare foray onto grit, squeezed into an hour or two as I drove home from Huddersfield. Quite an interesting venue, yet strangely neglected and certainly very different in tone from the popular crags further east. Quite exposed with views over Saddleworth and the edge of Manchester, the absolute antithesis of our trip to Baou du St Jeannet a fortnight ago! I jogged up from the reservoir in 20 mins or so, but had no guidebook and was alone, so had to make educated guesses at the routes and use a shunt at times. Answer Crack and Question Mark were very obvious, however, indeed the former must be one of the best easy climbs on grit. A juggy, straight crack - begging to be climbed - reminiscent of Heaven Crack at Stanage. Question Mark is more awkward, with some jamming involved. I then played around on the routes further left in a strong wind (but also increasing amounts of sunshine): Central Tower was good, with mini-mountaineering flavour. Some traditional chimneys followed, along with the deliciously juggy Direct Route. Jogged back, still feeling the effects of a sub-hour blast up Famau from the Collie yesterday, 10k speed session on my birthday, and an 11-miler from home to the top of Waun y Llyn and back on Saturday.

Horseshoe Pass road ride

Road cycling: HK-Horseshoe Pass-Bwlchgwyn-HK
Distance: 37m
Really struggling with my recovery at present: I was still feeling the after-effects of Saturday's race on the long climb from home to the top of the Horseshoe, despite jogs on Sunday and Monday. That said, at least cycling felt more rewarding and worthwhile in these muscle-damaged circumstances, and I am very conscious that I need to start building at least some cycling mileage into my routine if I am to enjoy the classic Tour cols during our scheduled mini-trip in July. Started very early, and therefore avoided most of the traffic. A very strong headwind buffeted me all the way, making life tricky and tiresome. Returned via the fast road through Bwlchgwyn and over to Caergwrle.

Carneddau fell race

Race: Ras Carneddau (10m/4200ft)
Peaks: Carnedd Dafydd, Carnedd Llewellyn, Yr Elen, Gyrn Wigau
Time/Position: 1:53:44 (5th from 50)
An improvement of 110 places on my last outing in this race, when it was part of the British Championships four years ago. A smaller field than usual today, perhaps because of the rather grim forecast. Indeed, the rain was already sweeping down a black Cwm Llafur as we started off from Gerlan. I kept a steady pace up, running all the way, until facing the gales as we moved onto the main spur down from Dafydd. Got to the wet and cold summit in 47 mins, which was encouraging, as was the fact that I then had plenty of energy for the ridge. I caught the runners in front, and a small group of five of us picked the good line east of the main ridge before starting up Llewellyn. I pulled away a little bit on this section, getting to the dank summit of Llewellyn in third place - which was rather exciting. It didn't last long, however, as the group reformed for the tricky nav through the towers along the ridge to Yr Elen. The wind really began to gust at this point, to 60-70mph, and I was knocked down twice. Great views as the cloud tore away from the ridge briefly at the col - Cwm Caseg remained hidden, while the Llafur slopes were briefly sunlit. The steep descent over Foel Ganol went well, enjoying the scree and staying third or fourth, but I gradually started to lose ground as the cloud cleared and we all scattered for the very long, steep but grassy descent to wild Cwm Caseg (last walked up in the icy weather of February 2010). I knew that an awful energy-sapping bog awaited, but it wasn't too bad apart from one somersaulting fall - and I still felt OK on the final cruel climb up Gyrn Wigau. Got very close to the two in front, but couldn't catch them, and they stayed ahead for the contouring, awkward and boggy terrain down to the finish above Bethesda. A classic race, arguably the 3rd hardest in North Wales, run in quite challenging conditions.

Saint-Jeannet climbing

Crag: Baou de Saint-Jeannet, Provence
Routes: L'Arete Sud (uD- 3,5,5,4,5:led p.1,3,5), Le Gruyere (f5:sec), La Fondue (f5:sec), Dernier Archipel (f5+:led*), Le Parapluie (f4+:led)
Our flight left Nice in the evening, so we had the perfect opportunity to get to grips with this crag, which is so obvious from the airport and environs. I'd last visited the place in 1994 with Tim, but had never climbed on the main face. I was a little too tired for the big routes today, so we settled on L'Arete Sud which takes the line its name suggests up the edge of the shorter and less intimidating South Pillar. Amazing clarity of light this morning, following the Mistral, with the Maritime Alps looking superb and Corsica remarkably clear even from the village of St Jeannet as we walked through. A steep path through the pretty village gave a delightful start to the day, and leads to woods then the traverse to the base of the main face. The arete is an obvious line, and I led an easy first pitch up a shallow groove to gain a cave. Vic led a good but polished second up a steep, slanting groove to a very big ledge which briefly spoiled the route. My third pitch took an awkward wall before a big ledge leads back left to gain a stance on the arete. An easy fourth pitch over blocks, before I completed the climb with a slightly loose fifth pitch weaving up more short walls, corners and blocks to the top of the pillar in a fine position. Very simple stuff, low end VS, but ideal for the day. We moved quickly up this 120m route, and it did give us something of the flavour and atmosphere of the crag. Most notably, the views were truly outstanding. From each belay, it was hard to know what to look at. I could see planes taking off from Calvi airport in Corsica, with Monte Cinto beyond, as well as Esterel, Nice, the Var valley, St Jeannet and its swimming pools directly below, all in perfect clarity. We descended via the middle tier and grabbed a few more routes before we finished. Gruyere and Fondue take pocketed slabs and grooves, as their names suggest. The latter saw the rope flick needles off a juniper bush, one of which landed in my eye and caused discomfort before emerging much later as we were driving to the airport. Dernier Archipel is a mini-classic taking a steep flake to an overhang. I then traversed too far right, very strenuous, with nothing for my feet, before losing strength. I later seconded it cleanly: it was actually a straightforward direct move over the overhang, reaching up for a juggy vertical pocket to pull over and gain a delicate slab. I finished by leading the juggy but very steep and polished corner of Le Parapluie, which I also lead 17 years ago! Strength failing, acknowledging that we were finally climbed out after an excellent trip, we called it a day and headed back to the village.

Chateauvert climbing

Crag: Chateauvert, Provence
Routes: Lycopodium (f4+:led), Le Diktaton (f4+:sec), Les Odeurs du Charme (f5+:sec), Are you Radin? (f5:led), La Flemme Fatale (f5+:sec), Technogene (f5+:led), Grosse et Caille (f5:led), Desire de Velours (f5+:sec), Aladdin (f4+:led), Alex (f5:sec)
A strong mistral blew today, giving perfect clarity of light but also forcing us towards more sheltered venues. I wanted to sample Chateauvert anyway, and it fitted the bill as a wonderful collection of crags in a secluded, wooded valley that is only a tad more than an hour away from Esterel. However, I hadn't quite realised how good it was - with fabulous climbing at every grade - and, as an obvious result, how wildly popular on the easier routes. A two minute walk-in adds to the attractions for families, youth groups, and all manner of leisure climbers. We started in the Technogene area, with Lycopodium a tremendous start. Steep moves on huge holds led to a fantastic flake, then wonderful easy climbing up the face on stupendously good, rough limestone (the best yet). Enormous juggy pockets characterise the upper wall here. A great route, as was La Diktaton which gives more brilliant jug-pulling up the face to the right. We moved left onto the ledge that gives access to a range of steeper routes up an obvious pillar. All the routes here are of superb quality: 25m pitches giving absorbing climbing on sharp pockets. After a 5c+ up the left side, I led Are you Radin, which is something a little different as it takes a steep, deep cleft/gully left of the pillar. It reminded me a little of Profit au Tyrol on Perthus. Steep easy bridging builds to a very steep climax with long reaches to jugs. We then polished off the rest of the routes on the pillar: outstanding stuff with great moves. Flemme Fatale was perhaps the best, certainly the hardest, and depended on a reachy crux right at the top. Eventually, the classic arete of Technogene became available as the big groups went off for lunch, so I led it. This involves a rather fierce start up the slightly overhanging lower wall to gain easier but still interesting climbing up the arete in a great position. Exhilarating in the bright sunshine and strong mistral wind. Lunch at the car beckoned, before we headed up to the Alex area for more great routes. I led Grosse et Caille up a fine flake and wall, wonderful throughout, while Vic led the superb Desire de Velours (sharp crimps, steep walls) as well as the easier classic Alex, which takes a fine groove before heading off up the steep headwall. Superb stuff, with ten routes dispatched - eight of which were three star classics. After four days of (literally) non-stop climbing, we were beginning to tire a little, so headed for home earlier than usual and even had time for a swift half at the bar later.

Mont Coudon climbing

Crag: Mont Coudon, Toulon, Provence
Routes: Le Petit Surplomb (f5,f5:led), Banana Way (f4:led), Les Bidasses en Folie (f4+:sec), Ballade pour Agnes (f4+:sec), Le Voleur de Baghdad (f5+:sec), Le Grand Toit (f5+,f5+,f4+:led p.1), La Saint Maclou (f5,f5+:led p.1)
We had deliberately visited the Calanques yesterday to avoid the weekend crowds, but I feared we may have the same problem today - as the crags above Toulon were on the agenda. Amazingly, however, we only met one other team on this superb crag that rises directly above the motorway and overlooks the whole of the city. Mont Coudon, on the east of the city, was the obvious choice for us as it enabled us to avoid the centre, although there are a ludicrous number of fine crags to choose from on the miniature mountains that encircle Toulon. We parked in the wrong place, too low down the hill, and had some jungle bashing before locating the scrambling descent that leads to the crag. We were delighted to find excellent solid and remarkably unpolished, rough limestone: another tremendous venue. The mistral had started to blow, and the day alternated between weird low cloud and wind, and hot sunshine. Generally, however, conditions were ideal. I began with a lead of Le Petit Surplomb, a two pitch affair next to the descent path. I merged the first steep slab with the second pitch, which goes easily to an overhang which doesn't look quite so 'petit' when you are underneath it. Great moves lead to a bolt on the edge, then a high reach for perfect jugs allow you to pull over. A strenuous and cracking start. We then did three shorter routes nearby (my lead was the juggy and simple Banana Way), a mixture of shallow grooves and small overlaps - all excellent fun on good frictional rock. After a five minute break for lunch, we moved to the bigger routes further left and Vic led Le Voleur de Baghdad - which requires a scramble up a vegetated corner to reach and looks unpromising (particularly as the cloud came down briefly). However, it gave another excellent three star classic trip up a steep slab with satisfying moves on positive crimps. Again, peerless rough grey limestone. Sustained and thought-provoking the whole way, with the crux moves involving the negotiation of a small overhang right at the top after 35m of climbing. The cliff continues to grow as you move left, and all the cloud dissolved as we began the next route of Le Grand Toit - presumably a local classic as it is a strong line up a thin crack to an obvious overhang ('roof' is a slight exaggeration). The first pitch is technical and polished for the first 20ft, with moves on small edges to gain the rougher limestone above. Huge pockets and jugs led to a small ledge where I belayed. A great spot, looking down to Ikea and Carrefour (!) with the city and the Isles d'Hyeres stretching beyond. Vic merged the last two pitches: hard and sustained moves up a hairline crack, a prolonged crux, gain a rest before the 'roof', which is bizarrely the easiest section of the climb. Perfectly placed jugs mean this goes at low-end VS after E1-ish climbing on the more innocuous-looking sections below. For an appropriate finale, we moved left again to the showpiece of the crag: the grandes voies area. A mouthwatering choice of multipitch routes confronted us: we selected La Saint Maclou and it gave one of the routes of the trip. I led up the 40m first pitch. Just wonderful, absorbing climbing up superb positive pockets. Never difficult, but tremendously enjoyable moves throughout. The evening sun lit the mountain perfectly as Vic led up the final pitch above a small sloping stance. This was another 40m affair, much steeper, directly above the belay on rough pockets, then moving right under a bulge to a hard crux up a steep wall on small crimps and finger pockets. Immaculate climbing and a fantastic route. Two abs saw us back down with an inch or two to spare on each one! The long walk back to the car was enjoyable in the evening sunshine after another long day.

Calanques climbing

Crag: En Vau, Calanques, Provence
Routes: Sirene Lieutard (uD- 4+,4+,3+,4:led p.1,3), Face a la Mer (f5+:led), La Saphir (uAD+ 4+,3,5,3+:led p.2,4)
A legendary venue, but visiting it and doing it some kind of justice in a single day was always going to be difficult given the distance from the caravan and the length of the walk-in. The fact that we achieved it was very satisfying, if a tad wearying. We reached the car park after 2 hours and a 160km+ journey. The parking is deliberately distant from the Calanques, for the excellent reason that this is a truly stunning locale located right next to a huge metropolis. En Vau was an easy choice: the most classic and beautiful Calanque of all. The walk-in reminded me of the walk in to Petra. Initially, you get the odd tantalising glimpse of the sea and the calanque, but then it remains hidden from view as you drop down into twisting limestone valleys. The walls get ever higher and the valley ever tighter until, eventually, you emerge at the beach with dazzling white limestone cliffs and aiguilles all around. However, the beauty of the place doesn't really reveal itself until you begin to climb, so we selected the grand old classic of Sirene Lieutard for our first route - by necessity, an easy climb that we could move quickly on. This takes a weaving line up the beautiful pillar 200m inland from the beach (Le Sirene). I led a nice first pitch up a long 30m rib, at around UK HS or a little harder, inevitably quite polished. Steady and satisfying climbing, with good nuts, pegs and occasional bolts to protect. A tricky move up a little chimney gains a belay just left of the rib line. Vic led up p.2, a very steep start for the grade, ultra-polished in places (given 6a by some). A move right to the arete gains easier climbing up the broken gully. Just scrambling now, as I continued across the broken gully to 'thread the needle' by climbing through a huge hole and emerging on a final ridge to breathtaking views of the Calanque. In fact, the top belay on Sirene Lieutard was the first time we really appreciated the stunning beauty of the place, and must rate as one of the finest belay stances I've ever had! A short pitch up the rib gained the top. A nightmare descent followed, as inadequate guidebook descriptions meant we had to traverse across several gullies before eventually locating a tortuous (and very hot) descent through steep crags that kept us unsure until we emerged on a traverse path to the beach. This lost us over an hour of valuable time (and many kcals of energy!), so after a quick bite I grabbed a quick ascent of one of the routes on the Petit Aiguille, the obvious little needle that rises behind the beach and has been climbed on since the nineteenth century. The line was Face a la Mer, a f5+ which goes up an obvious weakness - a series of grooves and corners - to the top. After lowering off, another team infuriatingly got in front of us for Le Saphir, another famous 'mountaineering' route of En Vau, which is the classic way to end a day in the calanque (by climbing out along the ridge). After a frustrating sun-baked wait, Vic led the polished first pitch - a dazzling white pillar of limestone with deep blue sky beyond - giving me the rambling second along a narrow, horizontal Alpine ridge. Just walking really, but truly stunning views in all directions. Vic led a long, merged third up the final pillar. This was tricky to follow given the weight of my sac (with a day's provisions in it) but splendid climbing again on good polished holds. I then led an easy final pitch up the arete in a magnificent position to the plateau. Lovely ambience as we finished, evening light with some light sea mist drifting in. A long, hard walk-out along the plateau followed.

Chateaudouble climbing

Crag: Les Marinouns, Chateaudouble, Provence
Routes: Un Point de Vie (f4+,f5+:led p.1), Le Bonheur est aux Marinouns (f4+:sec), Le Kinous de Nous (f4:sec), Ote Zoriel? (f4:sec), Le Moucat a perdu (f4:sec), Abraracourcix p.1 (f5+:led), Le Mage a Dit (f5:led), La Moucat (f4+:sec),Douce France! (F5+:sec), L'Echelle au Pepe (f5:led), Lumiere de Noel p.1 (f5+:sec)
The first day of our five-day Provencal climbing trip, the third year in succession we have made a May visit. This year, the intention was to broaden our horizons, to embrace some long drives and visit new crags. Chateaudouble was the obvious starting point, only an hour's drive from Esterel and in a tranquil and beautiful valley that I already knew from trips to the Verdon. Numerous crags are scattered around the gorge, presenting us with a difficult choice, although Les Marinouns seemed most likely to offer the high quality yet modestly graded routes we were after. Steep limestone was likely to characterise the trip, and I knew that (given the strenuous reality of this kind of climbing) I didn't have enough recent climbing mileage to climb anything remotely demanding. The crag was tricky to locate, and it felt like we were miles from anywhere, with the crag to ourselves, as we climbed the first few warm up pitches on the slab below the obvious groove line of Point de Vie. These were all simple and delightful: the crag was sun-drenched, the scent of the maquis was powerful, the road far below closed so birdsong the only sound. Classic haute Provence ambience. After pissaladiere for an appropriately regional lunch, I led up the first section of Abraracourcix, which had a few technical, steep moves up a pillar on small edges (UK 5b), before Vic led the big groove line upper pitch of Un Point de Vie (I'd already led the delicate first pitch up a vague groove). The top groove is a great, strong VS line: some vegetation but a perfect introduction to the superb hard grey limestone that characterises the crag. Good jugs up the groove to moves left onto a small headwall in a really good position. This gains the big cave obvious from below. At least 50-60m up, so we abbed down, before moving left to the Mage a Dit section. I led this route, which climbs a very pleasant rib just left of a deep corner. Lovely climbing again, on superb rough rock: given 3 stars in the guide although 2 is perhaps appropriate. The line to the left, La Moucat, starts steeply up a corner before easing off to more slabby rib climbing. Vic then led Douce France, a really splendid climb further right. It looks undistinguished from below, but actually provides a wonderful very long (35m+) and sustained pitch at 5+. It goes straight up the face, through three bulges, all on immaculate grey pocketed limestone. Never too hard, but continually absorbing. We were beginning to dehydrate in the very warm sunshine, but were eager to finish on the main section of cliff further right. I fancied the obvious huge flake taken by L'Echelle au Pepe, and was not disappointed. Yet another three star classic (the 4th of the day). It goes easily to an undercut flake. Quite powerful, excellent moves along this gain the main flake line. This then gives quite superb climbing: a mixture of bridging and big juggy face holds. Never remotely difficult, but classic stuff throughout. The corner continues for at least 20 more metres giving another huge pitch. Vic finished a great opening day with the first pitch of Lumiere de Noel, which takes the opposing corner groove to the previous route via some delicate bridging, an arm jam, and a steep but juggy corner. Fabulous views down the valley, with the village of Chateaudouble perched above the steep gorge. A superb venue and a great start to the trip.

Llangynhafal Loop

Race: Llangynhafal Loop fell race (4.75m/1750ft/AS)
Time/Position: 45:52 (15th from 101)
The second Welsh champs race of the season, so it was a tad disappointing to feel under par for this fine race. Always an enjoyable outing, though, with a great friendly atmosphere, and I was all of 15 seconds quicker than last year. I may have been tired after recent events, as I certainly didn't feel as good as I did on Wednesday, particularly struggling on the descents. We had the novelty of some light rain before the start, which moistened the ground nicely for the fast initial sprint to Nant y Ne. I felt quite good on the gently rising climb to the gully, and kept my place over the misty summit before starting to lose ground on the ridge. Still conscious of my knee injury during steep descents (MRI scan this morning!) and also found the final sting in the tail worse than usual this year, as the bilberry plants were higher.

Pot Hole climbing

Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: The Dog (HVS 5b:TR), Right Wall (E1 5c:TR), Ceba (E1 5b:TR), Canine Meander (E2 5b:TR), Id (E1 5c:TR)
A much needed workout before next week's spring cragging trip to Provence. As usual, this was too little too late for training purposes. Warm sunshine interspersed with light showers, although we only had 90 minutes or so at our disposal. Given the recent lack of climbing, I felt OK, enjoying the positive little crimps and edges on Right Wall and Canine Meander in particular. We then did a shorter version of the usual Collie run, turning round at the farm and contouring the hillside lower down, mindful of tomorrow's race.

Dinas Bran fell race

Race: Ysgol Dinas Bran (4.3m/1250ft/AS)
Time/Position: 32:59 (4th from 52 [2nd V40])
If my records are correct, this was my 200th race. It was also my first ever 'fell race' eight years ago, although it is hardly typical of the genre. Given all the long slow runs last week in Scotland, and the fact that this race is pretty short and intense, it went a lot better than I'd expected. The very steep 'donkey track' leads from the school up to the contouring path, before the steep climb up to the castle itself. Neil and Jez were good targets up ahead, though very distant, and I gradually picked up a few places after a fast descent. The second climb back to the castle is always tough, so I chose to stride it then open up as best I could on the descent. A good revived event, really enjoyable. I picked up the V40 prize, although the winner was also in the category.

An Teallach

Peaks: Sail Liath (954m/3130ft), Corrag Bhuidhe (1040m/3412ft), Lord Berkeley's Seat (1030m/3379ft), Sgurr Fiona (1060m/3478ft), Bidean a'Ghlas Thuill (1062m/3484ft)
Area: Fisherfield, Wester Ross
Another contender for the title of Britain's finest peak, this was a lucky bonus squeezed into three hours during our journey home from Assynt. I was considering running up Cul Mor, but the weather was so perfect (despite a strong wind) that the lure of An Teallach was too strong. The family went in search of breakfast and I started running from Corrie Hallie, passing numerous groups on their way up and soon had the entire ridge to myself in perfect weather - a special treat. I followed the Shenavall path a little too far, missing the turn for the lochan, and therefore had to strike up untracked terrain to gain the summit of Sail Liath in 70 mins. Superb crystal-clear views in all directions: through the magnificent wilds of Fisherfield to Beinn Dearg Mor, A'Mhaighdean and Slioch. But the imminent delights of Corrag Bhuidhe were what really held my attention. I jogged down to the little col, wind howling through the gap, before gaining another easy peak. From here, a narrow horizontal ridge gains the steepest part of the scramble. I took this up a groove with good holds and some bridging, around Diff, to easy terrain and the top of the first pinnacle. The ridge is wonderful, enjoyable easy sandstone scrambling throughout, very reminiscent of grit, weaving its way up and across a series of towers. The highpoint of Corrag Bhuidhe is obvious, marked with a cairn, and is gained by another easy scramble along the crest. The only disappointment was the skirting path, the mere presence of which rather dilutes the pleasure of being on the crest of the ridge, even if you keep to it throughout. The finale is provided by Lord Berkeley's Seat, which is a tiny summit overhanging the corrie of Loch Toll an Lochain. From here, easy running up the still enjoyable - but no longer dramatic - ridge gains the top of Sgurr Fiona. Great sun-drenched views in all directions: Coigach, Torridon, Poolewe (memories of 2005), but especially notable is the classic view back over the An Teallach ridge itself. I was running out of time, however, and continued the run over the second key peak (Bidean a'Ghlas Thuill - 2 hrs to here as I'd inevitably slowed on the scramble) and down to the next col, which provides a fine steep descent. I pelted down here, running almost flat out, not wanting to keep the family waiting. The path stays reasonably clear until the final jungle bash to the road: 3:13 for the full round. The children demanded lunch, so I drove in sweaty clothes and muddy fell running shoes straight to Dingwall and got changed in Tesco carpark!

Glen Leirig run

Another remarkable morning: cloudless sky, perfect clarity of light, views over Handa and Foinaven from the breakfast table. A rest day was in order, so I ran from the cottage along the road eastwards to the path towards Tumore, through Glen Leirig. This was a delight, with the western wall of Quinag towering above. I continued to the lonely shores of Loch an Leothaid - an impressive body of water - and just drank in the view for a few minutes. Rather nice not to be rushing around for once. I ran back to Nedd, and we all walked to Drumbeg for lunch at the viewpoint. Extraordinarily tranquil: close views of Red Throated Divers, and distant views of yesterday's destinations - Ben Stack and Handa.

Ben Stack

Peak: Ben Stack (721m/2365ft)
Area: Reay, Sutherland
We could see this peak from our bedroom window, and it therefore became an essential addition to the holiday. It seemed obvious from the map that it would work as a very short rest day jog, although I didn't know anything about the routes up it. A great excuse to head even further north, though, into the wonderful scenery of Reay around Loch Laxford. In contrast to previous days, the cloudbase was quite low, covering Foinaven and Arkle, but just about revealing Ben Stack as a surprisingly impressive pyramidal peak as we rounded Laxford. The Cnicht of Scotland, I'd say! The children decided not to walk up to Loch na Seilge from Loch Stack, so I just guessed the route and ran up the hill as fast as I could, although yesterday's outing was still in my legs. Quick running leads to Loch na Seilge, before a boggy path over a plateau gains the steepish NW ridge, which made my Cnicht comparison even more persuasively. The path weaves through several rocky outcrops to gain a nice little grass ridge on the summit in 35 mins from the car. Some light mist playing around, but I did get views over Foinaven (which also looked great from our cottage and demands a return visit), Quinag, Loch Stack and Loch Laxford from a little lower down. Wild, largely uninhabited country. Jogged back to the car, wrenching my achilles again, in 25 mins, to make a pleasing sub-hour trip. A memorable trip to Handa Island in the afternoon made for another splendid day.

Ben More Assynt

Peaks: Conival (987m), Ben More Assynt (998m), South Top (960m)
Area: Assynt, Sutherland
These peaks are far more subtle and elusive than their more famous (but lower) neighbours to the west. They provided an equally memorable day, however. I left the cottage at 6.30am, in order to be back for lunch, in the best weather so far. Not a breath of wind, not a cloud in the sky as I left Inchnadamph for the long run up eastwards up the Gleann Dubh. The track gives way to a very pleasant and runnable path - cool, almost cold, in the depths of the glen at this time in the morning. After yesterday's rest, I made very rapid progress up the steep and boggy track leading to the mini-amphitheatre below Coire a'Mhadaidh. With an azure sky above, and white shattered quartzite forming the rock walls below the col, this felt distinctly Provencal! A tiny scramble through the headwall made the comparison even more forcefully and put me in mind of several Pre-Alpes outings. I emerged on the broad col, before more rocky terrain slowed the pace to a jog. A false summit brought the awkward terrain to a temporary halt and led to brilliant and exhilarating running along a grassy but sharp ridge to the summit of Conival (80 mins from road). A cloud inversion to the east and north, with Ben Hope notable. Perfect clarity over Quinag and Coigach. A really memorable jog along the bouldery and awkward ridge followed. I had the entire range to myself, again, and the morning light was stunning. Ben More Assynt feels remote, and is certainly quite far from any road: the land to the east is particularly wild. It seemed a terrible shame to reverse the route, as is apparently conventional. I dislike retracing steps at the best of times, and rejected the idea as soon as I saw the South Ridge of Ben More - which led enticingly to another top. This was a great decision, as the South Ridge gives a lovely mild scramble in a truly remote situation: the essence of mountain enjoyment. A couple of little slabs but generally just a narrow ridge poised between two wild cwms. Grassy running then led up to and over the South Top, before steep terrain makes a descent impossible until the col below Conbhairean, the next peak. I still descended too early, though, and was faced with very steep terrain for which some care, and weaving around, was demanded. I gained the shores of Dubh Loch Mor, a fabulous isolated spot with the song of ring ouzels all around. Hot sunshine now, as I contoured round to gain the obvious narrow bwlch between Conival and Breabag, following deer tracks for much of the way. Great running led through this to the top of the Allt a'Bheallaich and views of Canisp and Loch Assynt. Lower down I regained Gleann Dubh and the outward route, where I encountered the first people I'd seen all morning. A rather lengthy 3:50 for the round, explained perhaps by the tricky terrain. Back at the cottage before midday, however, to spend the afternoon at Clashnessie beach and Stoer.

Stac Pollaidh

Eve was very keen to do this peak after a full day out in Ullapool. Having done the main summit in 2005, and remembering its tricky final tower, I restricted her to the Eastern summit despite her desire to get to grips with the 'spikey bits'. We both enjoyed the trip immensely, and she only tired on the section of steps below the initial shoulder. I carried her for 100m or so before losing strength! She virtually ran up the final steep staircase to the little scramble. A memorable tea break on the Eastern summit: just lovely to introduce her to proper mountains for the first time. Superb clarity of light giving wonderful views across Coigach, the Hebrides, the Summer Isles and north to the previous days peaks: Suilven and Quinag.

Suilven

Peaks: Caisteal Liath (731m/2399ft), Meall Mheadhonach (701m/2300ft)
Area: Assynt, Sutherland
Arguably the finest peak in Britain, this was more or less compulsory given the location of the cottage. It's a long way from the road, which adds to the appeal, and it is eminently suitable for a running approach, particularly as an excellent stalker's path leads right into the heart of the wild country of the Glencanisp Forest and gives access to the mountain. I left the roadhead after another tortuous drive and ran past a series of lakes formed by the Abhainn na Clach Airigh. The morning cloud was breaking up superbly and this marvelous peak changes shape continually as you get closer to it. After 40 minutes of running, I struck off to the south over a series of boggy rises to a superb view of Canisp over the wild and remote Loch na Gainimh. After skirting a smaller loch, I attacked the Bealach Mor - although was forced to slow to a walk for this section. It is relentlessly steep but gives very quick access to the col between the peaks. Sudden, superb views south over the peaks of Coigach. An excellent twisting path leads via some mild scrambling to the dome-like main summit of Caisteal Liath: 99 minutes from the road. As the peak rises in isolation from the surrounding plateau of rock and water, it gives tremendous views in all directions. A cold wind blew, and I hurriedly got into my gilet to enjoy a rare two minute banana break. Lochinver looked very distant and I doubted my ability to get back for lunch, as promised, particularly if I was to bag Meall Meadhonach first. Indeed, despite all the wonderful distant views it is this sharp sister peak that really grabs the attention. Its spire complements the dome of Caisteal Liath and it was clearly unmissable (although most people bizarrely seemed to do just that), so I jogged down to Bealach Mor and continued running up the grassy ridge opposite. This levels to become a perfect platform leading to a short rocky descent and 'breche' before the final scramble which leads enjoyably to a little wall which demands a moment's thought. A great summit, which I had to myself, with magnificent views back along the ridge and down to the coast. Perfect clarity, with all the cloud gone. Canisp and Stac Pollaidh notable from here. I ran back down the ridge after descending the awkward wall, past a tame ptarmigan, and jogged down the steep gully before quickening the pace back down the stalker's path all the way to the pie shop in Lochinver in time for lunch (3:15 in total).

Quinag

Peaks: Spidean Coinich (764m/2508ft), Centre Top (745m/2448ft), Sail Gharbh (808m/2653ft)
Area: Assynt, Sutherland
Our first morning in Sutherland started with persistent drizzle. I'd enjoyed a jog around the area yesterday, after arriving, but was keen to get some proper exercise after the long drive. After a short wet walk to Lochan Dubh above our cottage in Nedd, the rain began to clear at lunchtime. We headed east along the tortuous road to the top of the main Kylesku-Ullapool road, keen to salvage something from the day and get the trip off to a worthwhile start. Quinag was the obvious choice for a first outing, as the area's 'signature peak' (actually more like a mountain range in miniature). Its western wall dominates Nedd, but it is equally impressive, although very different in character, from the east. I pledged to complete the circuit of the main peaks from here in less than two hours while the family visited Ardvreck. The clouds were clearing beautifully as I ran up the broad, rocky eastern ridge of Spidean Coinich, reaching the top in 35 mins from the road. The ridge ahead is a tasty prospect from this fine summit, and I wasted no time getting to grips with it. Steep but runnable terrain leads down to a grassy ridge, followed by a quick runnable climb to a 713m mini-summit, then another steeper narrowish ridge to the Bealach a Chornaidh. From here, a steep but surprisingly easy and very brief climb leads up to another unnamed summit at 745m, before a superb broad and runnable ridge to the highpoint of the range at Sail Garbh (1 hour from the road). Superb views over the Quinag range, across to the tremendously characterful summits of Suilven, Canisp and Conival, and down to Loch Nedd and the rest of the coast. Still rather hazy but improving all the time. We were in for a great week it seemed! I retraced steps down the ridge before plunging down an obvious path to Lochan Bealach Chornaidh and enjoying superb running in the sunshine - surrounded by the peaks of Quinag which here form an impressive pseudo-cirque, and accompanied by the evocative call of a golden plover - back to the car, arriving 1h 48m after leaving. A family walk around Loch na Gainmhich followed.

Clwydian run

After three days in London it was nice to be able to relax in beautiful spring weather. I'd squeezed in a longish 11m Clwydian run with Jez last Friday, and (keen to finally get some decent training done) followed this up today with a 10 miler from Cadole along to Cilcain, then up to the ridge at Dywyll and along to Famau and down via the usual Friday ascent.

Tbilisi run

Not the most ideal city for running in, but I finally found myself with a bit of free time this afternoon during a four-day trip to Georgia. Mount Mtatsminda dominates Tbilisi and was a very obvious objective, and after finding a tortuous route through the winding cobbled streets above Rustaveli Avenue, I stumbled across the group of monasteries that I was aiming for. Here a very long sequence of stairs twists through the woods below the defunct funicular to the Soviet TV tower at the top of Mtastsminda. I couldn't help wondering whether I was the first person to use this route as fell running training. The weather had cleared by the time I got to the top: great views east towards the semi-desert and wine regions. The peaks to the west were snow-covered, unsurprisingly after sleet in Tbilisi yesterday, and the hills above Mskreta (visited on Tuesday) looked appealing. Seemed a shame to leave the country after seeing so little of it: will return to take in the High Caucasus some day.

Llantysilio fell race

Race: Llantysilio mountain race (6.2m/2100ft/AM)
Time/Position: 58:33 (10th from 92 [3rd V40])
For some reason, this was the only local race that I'd never done. Another stunning day, so the children entered the earlier 'lollop', with E particularly enjoying the little circuit around a farm. The main race takes a logical circuit from the Rhewl side of these superbly runnable hills, starting in the village itself. It curves over towards a vague ridge then levels off after a steep climb. One group of 7 or 8 runners went clear, leaving a big gap to a second group. This group stayed together for the flat section across fields before climbing up to Moel Morfydd. I still feel some way off the pace, although the injuries are slowly clearing, but at least I seem to be climbing OK now. I put a bit of a spurt on across Moel y Gaer, feeling quite good for the first time in months. The route follows the main ridge to Gamelin, which always gives great running. Quite hot, easily the hottest conditions I've raced in since last summer, but fantastic clear views in all directions. I managed to pull away a bit on the climb to Gamelin, because I knew I'd descend back to the valley slowly. I wrenched my calf badly at one point, when a patch of heather twisted it to the side. But I gradually ran it off, and the dry conditions replaced the pain with a different variety by giving me a monster blister to contend with on the long descent. Narrow sheep tracks lead to a steep road back to the village. A walk along the river to Llangollen for lunch was a nice way to warm down.

Gwynant climbs

Crag: Clogwyn y Wenallt, Nant Gwynant
Routes: Oxo (VS 4b,4c:led p.1)
Crag: Craig Penmaen Brith, Nant Gwynant
Routes: Excalibur (VD:led)
Another perfect spring day, with Nant Gwynant at its tranquil best. I've wanted to visit Clogwyn y Wenallt for some time, as it is such an eye-catching crag from the road. We walked in around the lake, delightful, and I began the slightly wet first pitch of Oxo. Large holds on wet, black rock lead rightwards to a flake. A delicate move up a short wall gives access to a slightly precarious gangway, which continues the traverse rightwards to another short wall. A steepish move up this gains a good finishing hold and the obvious ledge: a nice 30m pitch. After the easy slab middle pitch, Vic led an awkward top pitch up a steep crack with a surprisingly hard final move to a ledge, then a short traverse right on lichenous rock. We then took the direct finish, rightly given 5a in the old Williams guide, up a steep reachy crack to better finishing holds. A good route, quite sustained and certainly not the soft touch I'd half expected. Took us a while, so after lunch we ambled along the lakeside in stunning weather conditions: perfect clarity of light, barely a ripple on the lake, hardly anyone around. We emerged at Penmaen brith, a mossy crag of slatey rock hidden in a copse and probably the least suitable choice for a day like today. Particularly as the only clean line was the deep cleft taken by Excalibur. This is really a thrutch for a wet day, as it goes up an awkward chimney to a ledge with jammed boulders. It then climbs a huge oak tree to gain a pleasant rib which leads to the top. Beautiful views of the lake, as this crag is located near the water's edge. However, it was not the most successful climbing day I've ever had, so we continued the circuit of the lake before enjoying the sunshine outside the Bryn Tyrch.

Llanbedr to Blaenafon fell race

Race: Llanbedr to Blaenafon fell race, Gwent (15m/4500ft/AL)
Peaks: Crug Mawr, Sugarloaf, Blorenge
Time/Position: 2:37:21 (14th from 116)
A classic race run in perfect clear spring weather: a real treat. I knew I didn't have the distance in my legs as I haven't run 'long' since the Rab last September, and I haven't done a true AL since 2009. However, we decided to make a weekend of it and hope my various injuries didn't play up. The recent cycling/running replacement strategy must have paid some dividends in terms of endurance as it went quite well. A carload of us left for the start in Blaenafon: the race takes off down a cobbled track before surprisingly runnable contouring tracks lead gradually to the breezy top of Crug Mawr. Great views north over the Black Mountains with the morning mist all gone, probably 12 years since I last visited that area. Deliberately took it easy for the long descent into Cwm Beusych, before crossing Grwyne Fawr for more gently rising paths leading to a fine ridge up the Sugar Loaf. Again, surprisingly runnable. Acquired an infuriating stitch on the descent into St Mary's Vale, multiple chances to get lost here, before even trickier 'urban nav' through the edge of Abergavenny, over the Usk, to a sidelane leading up to water and snacks at Llanfoist. This road section was really tough for me given recent injury problems, and I knew I needed to eat something before the final brutal slog up the Blorenge. I downed a gel saved from last week's Cheshire Cat and began to feel ill almost immediately. But it was never bad enough to stop me maintaining a steady chug up this famously steep hill - surprisingly gaining a couple of places. After leaving the woods, the path gets steeper and steeper until you are literally on your hands and knees for the final section. This gains the plateau summit of Blorenge, after which it's a fair distance to the finish. I concentrated on keeping my position, and did so despite getting lost in upper Blaenafon looking for the rugby club. So the first race of the Welsh Champs is in the bag: hopefully I'll be able to get a bit faster for the rest. A tremendous event, with very varied rural/industrial scenery: the essence of South Wales in microcosm for the weekending North Walian.

Cheshire Cat sportive

Cycle Sportive: Cheshire Cat long route (100m)
Time/Position: 7:02:12 (645/1200)
The running equivalent of this slow time might be a gently jogged marathon, so it's a slightly embarrassing addition to the CV. That said, I thoroughly enjoyed the route, if not the abysmal organisation. And as I started road cycling from scratch two months ago, after my running injury, and only did two 40 mile rides and one 60 miler in preparation, I suppose I wasn't too surprised with the snail's pace. I had a lot of fun on all the climbs, and felt comfortable throughout (so much easier than fell running!) but I inevitably lacked the cycle-specific training and power sufficient to churn out 20-25mph speeds on the flat. Started from Crewe after an appalling queue to cross the start, and headed east towards Scholar Green and the start of the famous climb up Mow Cop after 16m. I got into a small gear, and found the climb comfortable and enjoyable. It is quite steep at the start, then eases off before kicking up dramatically (25%) past the pub, where I had to get out of the saddle for a bit. A medal was awarded for those completing this section without getting off (the main hazard is bikes swerving across the road and riders falling off), but in reality the climb carries on past the folly to the top of the ridge and was satisfying to ride in one go. Superb riding through the edge of the Peak ensued, with more nice climbs over Blacky Bank and Bridestones before reaching a feed station after 27m near Macclesfield. After a few more sharp and scenic climbs around Wincle, the route flattens out and becomes a fast chug west across the width of Cheshire. I felt comfortable throughout, but was clearly taking it far too easy by the time I reached the next feed at Holmes Chapel. At Beeston, the sun came out and I hooked on to the back of a faster group of 12-15 riders and pushed on in a bigger gear. This was superb, and the obvious secret to recording a faster time. The pack raced along, and the faster pace was no less comfortable than mincing along at a higher cadence. It carried me past Tattenhall along roads familiar from various races towards home territory at Tilston. A short ride would have seen me back in HK, but I was still really enjoying the day and headed back east after a feed for the remaining 23m. Found it hard to get a group at my pace, though, as the field had thinned out, and I was severely held up by traffic in Nantwich, which was rather annoying. An interesting day out, but it brings the brief cycling interlude to a close for now (although three more big rides are planned before hitting the Alpine climbs in July, and I'll probably have a proper bash at one more of the polocini sportives in late summer, as these seem far more pleasant and low key). The injuries seem to be sorting themselves out, so it's back to the day job with some big fell races coming up.

Moelwyn climbing

Crag: Clogwyn yr Oen, Moelwynion
Routes: Pied Piper (S 4a:led p.1,3), Kirkus's Climb (VD:led p.1,2), Kirkus's Climb Direct (S 4a:sec), Block (S 4a,4a:led p.1), Orange Outang (HS 4a,4b:led p.1)
Out on strike today so keen to take advantage of the free pass. And, serendipity, a beautiful spring day with midweek partners available. Still needing early-season leading mileage, the bumbly playground of Clogwyn yr Oen was the obvious choice for Mick and I. Wonderful warm sunshine as we began the pleasant rib line of Pied Piper on the right of the crag. I led up a slab to a wet chimney, then Mick led a good clean pitch up the edge of the rib. The last pitch goes over a wet break to a quartz slab split by a thin crack. Good climbing up this to a hidden corner, which leads steeply to the top. After a bite, I merged p.1 and 2 of Kirkus's Climb, having done the more famous Direct many years ago. The indirect goes up a thrutchy chimney to a slab, then a broad crack up to the ledge. The problem is that it is then impossible for any normal person to avoid the temptation of doing the delightful arete (3rd) pitch of the Direct by sneaking off into the side groove of the Indirect. So we didn't: sun-drenched and superb easy climbing up jugs in a lovely position. Another quick descent, achilles playing up slightly, before I led the long 40m+ first pitch of Block. More gentle fun, varied climbing up slabs and short walls to the block, before enjoying the fine slab to the ledge. Mick then led another long pitch up the corner, before two more steep cracks led back left to the top. There was just time for a romp up Orange Outang before we finished, this time with Vic and Caroline who arrived at lunchtime. This route takes the steeper wall near Pinky and gives easy climbing up pocketed slabs to brief moves over a tiny overhang on enormous holds. Finished off with some bouldering, but didn't run as my achilles twinge (developed through compensating for the knee) worsened during a long 13m hill run yesterday over Waun y Llyn to Llan y Gwr and over the top towards Bwlchgwyn and back. Will try the full Famau run tomorrow evening as another test, then rest up for Sunday's big cycle sportive, which should ease the stress on the achilles nicely.

Dash in the Dark

Race: Llandegla Dash in the Dark, race 3 (4m/750ft)
Time/Position: 28:10 (5th from 38 [1st v40])
A snap decision to do this, my first 'fell race' since the injury. After a full day climbing in the Pass (see previous entry) preparation was hardly ideal as I arrived with 5 minutes to spare after driving flat out from Llanberis to Llandegla via St Asaph! I downed a chocolate milkshake by way of an easily digestible repast, but had no time for my customary pre-race espresso. I was inevitably some way off the pace, having come 2nd overall twice in last winter's series, but it was just great to be back having missed the others this series. A completely different route this year, without the long, gradual climb at the start. Instead it tracked downwards after a loop of the car park, gradually climbing back to the lake. The first three runners sprinted away, so it was really a battle for fourth place. I found any kind of speed hard to maintain and eventually settled for fifth - although this was enough for 1st v40 at the MTB centre later on. Great friendly event, as always.

Carreg Wastad climbs

Crag: Carreg Wastad, Llanberis
Routes: Lion (VS 4a,4c,4a,-:led p.1,3), Main Scoop Route (HS 4a,4a,4a,4b:led p.1,3)
A fortnight after our last visit to the sunny side of the Pass, and about 18 months since we blitzed this particular crag on a memorable September day. This wasn't quite so productive (still in early season shakedown mode) but gave pleasant climbing in lovely early spring weather. I've done all the easier classics on this crag over the years, so it was time to get a little more esoteric - even though we had the crag to ourselves. Vic hadn't done Lion either, so I led the first pitch, which is easy but not over-endowed with gear. After starting the traverse on the second pitch too low, a bit of crafty rope management was required to get back on track. An excellent, very varied pitch at the top of the grade. Nice moves up to the overlap before a delightful traverse across the slab leads to the overhanging chimney. This is pretty brutal on first acquaintance, and needs a mixture of jamming and bridging to overcome it. Physical and almost ungradeable! I led the third, another easy but pleasant pitch in a great position. It traverses right to join uber-classic Crackstone Rib - lovely climbing on huge holds to the belay. Vic led a short fourth pitch to finish. Our next choice, Main Scoop, is another old but obscure route. A vegetated slab leads to a greasy chimney, then a thrutch through a holly tree to the top of the Red Tower. A short traverse gains the line of the Main Scoop: Vic led to the top in one long pitch. Shame this doesn't see more traffic, as it's a good line higher up but remains mossy and vegetated. A tricky groove leads to two steep chimneys, all quite interesting, before a final steep move (the Hard Court) right at the top. Finished later than expected and jogged back to the car. It was going to be very tight if I was to make the second appointment: the final Dash in the Dark fell race of the winter!

Hope Mountain run

Pushed the post-injury distance a little today, just to see whether Llanbedr-Blaenavon is a realistic option in 2.5 weeks time! It went reasonably well, from Hope over Waun y Llyn then down the bridleway and paths to Ffrith. I always enjoy the long but relatively gentle climb from the road up to the trig point on Pen Llan y Gwr above Bwlchgwyn - 45 mins from Hope. This route is so pleasant, especially in todays misty but calm conditions, that it is no great hardship to reverse (quicker in reverse, too).

Maeshafn climbing

Crag: Maeshafn
Routes: Shattered Crack (HS 4a:sh), Sling variant (HS 4a:sh), The Arete (VS 5a:sh), Dandy Lion (HS 4b:sh), Sling (HS 4a:sh), Wavy Wall (S:sol), Running wolf variant (5b:sh)
Found myself in the unusual position of having some time on my hands after the race, but no partner, so after a warm-down I headed up to Maeshafn in glorious bracing sunshine to shunt a few old easy favourites. Shattered Crack is always good value: must have done it 20 times over the years. I then picked a route between Sling and the harder routes to the right, trying to avoid the big holds. The Arete is a nice climb, better than I remembered, up a nice clean pillar and not too polished if you weave around a bit. I claimed the first ascent of Dandy Lion back in 1991 or so, only to find I'd been beaten to this very obvious easy line by a month or two! Went up and down Sling a few times, then moved round to the White Wall, which looked like it had been cleaned up and was very tempting in the sunshine - almost Provencal if you squinted. I weaved up the Running with the Wolf wall, nice technical moves. After a quick bite looking out over the Clwydians, I jogged up Moel Findeg to finish.

Mold Border League

Race: Mold 5.2m (Border League round 5)
Time/Position: 30:39 (35th from 232)
My return to racing after almost three months out following the injury. As such, this was always going to be a struggle, particularly as I'd only managed two short intervals sessions by way of preparation. Quite pleased with the time and finishing position. I was 18 places down on the first two races, but it could have been a lot worse. The climb to Nercwys went well - this route is always difficult to judge, as you lose too much ground if you start too cautiously. I was then hanging on a bit for the second half, lacking speed endurance, and was passed by 4 or 5. The final false flat to the finish was pretty desperate, definitely felt lack of training here. I am currently 2nd v40 overall in the league, after 5 races, but won't be able to do the remaining events so won't retain the position. Still feel a lot more comfortable off-road.

Winter Sprinter sportive

Cycle Sportive: Winter Sprinter (100k/60m)
Time: 4:01:05 (2:53 Swiss Hill)
My first ever sportive, or indeed road bike event of any kind. As such, caution seemed advisable, although in retrospect I probably took this to snail-like extremes. It did mean that it was all tremendously enjoyable, however, with no discomfort or problems (helped by nice weather which improved throughout the day). My running injury provoked me into entering these sportives, trying to make the best of a bad situation. I'd expected it to be distressingly commercial compared to running, but it wasn't, and actually felt reassuringly like a fell race. The first 20m went very quickly and smoothly: out from Woodford towards Wilmslow and up to the M56 near Lymm. Pleasant and enjoyable, riding in a pack quite comfortably. Then down to Knutsford and Alderley Edge just beyond half way. The timed climb up Swiss Hill came quite suddenly. This is cobbled, rutted and pretty steep so I got into a very small gear and went for it. It was fairly comfortable, as I presumably benefit from years of mountain biking and fell running on these steeper climbs. I passed several cyclists walking and recorded a time of 2:53 for the climb which was a bit more respectable than my dreadfully slow overall time! From here, the climb continues to Over Alderley, really enjoyable, before the second feed station. I pushed the pace for the first time on the 7m loop through Henbury and started passing cyclists on the hills and catching groups in front. It was too late to improve my time though, so I continued to relax through leafy Prestbury (familiar from Macclesfield half marathon), and up into Dark Peak territory through Bollington and Pott Shrigley. Not far from Windgather here, certainly felt like the Peak with some short climbs. I took a wrong turning here (vandals had altered the signs) and pointlessly climbed an additional hill before righting myself for the trip down through the suburbs to Stockport and back to Woodford. An excellent event which was particularly welcome after all the missed races so far this year.

Grochan climbing

Crag: Clogwyn y Grochan, Llanberis
Routes: Nea (VS 4b,4a,4b:led p.2), Brant (VS 4c:sec)
Back on rock after six months absence: as such, this was inevitably something of a shakedown and we got very little done. A lovely week of early spring weather, so the south-facing Grochan seemed likely to provide good conditions. Pleasant sunshine as we warmed up on the old classic Nea, which I last did in 1992. A fine line, with pleasant climbing up the juggy groove. I then led the simple gangway pitch up the slanting continuation of the groove before following Vic up the exposed final wall. A pleasant relaxed re-introduction. We were eager for more - but after abbing down the wall, a jammed rope made that unlikely. I had to scramble up Goat's Gully to free the rope - tedious and time-consuming. However, the sun was warm and the wind dropped for the first pitch of Brant. Great to be back on warm rock, with a nice pitch up an awkward wide groove to a delicate traverse line leading left to the big ledge. Very pleasant, but the sun dropped behind Llechog as Mick (who arrived later) followed. Discomfort seemed likely, so we abbed off and did Slape Direct instead. A frustrating day was then made worse by my failure to do the final technical move cleanly. Still, the lack of action meant I was able to squeeze a brisk 10k run in later - my quickest loop since the injury.

Llangollen road loop

Road cycling: HK-Horseshoe Pass-Llangollen-Rhos-Minera-HK
Distance: 72k/44m
An early start, as it was vital to squeeze this longer ride in before forthcoming sportives. It went well, although the long climb up the Horseshoe was made considerably harder by a surprisingly strong headwind. This dropped slightly for the final climb, and the sun finally came out as I enjoyed the superb, exhilarating descent down to Llangollen. After a brief snack, quick flat riding (the only flat section on this loop) led to Trevor, before quiet roads lead north through Penycae to Rhos. Predictably hilly and windy over to Minera, but good cycling country. Then a detour towards Bwlchgwyn and down the Brymbo road to Hope and home. Felt comfortable throughout and deliberately took it easy by gearing down: small mileage (75k at most, 3:15 for the loop) but rendered a bit more challenging by the amount of climbing.

Clwydian run

At last, some improvement to the knee detected after seven long weeks. After a jog up Conwy Mountain, I managed the regular 10k road loop a few days later followed by the normal Collie run up Famau in a reasonable 1:20 last Friday. It still seems prudent to alternate running with cycling, so I waited until this evening for a longer outing: a jog from Llanferres over Foel Fenlli then a mini-loop up Famau and back over Fenlli. Some cramp/aches in the knee - still not right, but nothing too troubling.

Llanferres-Rhydtalog loop

Road cycling: HK-Llanferres-Rhydtalog-HK
Distance: 30m
Although I can now run very gently for short distances, it seems prudent to keep the recovery cautious by alternating ultra-slow jogs with longer bike rides (generally just the commute). This early morning outing was not as long as intended, as I couldn't spare the time, but was enjoyable: particularly the quiet and well-surfaced road from Llanferres over to Rhydtalog in welcome sunshine, then the very fast and long descent to Pontblyddyn. Around 1:45 for the loop.

Hope Mountain circuit

MTB Route: Hope Mountain MTB
Distance: 20m+
Managed to jog up Moel Findeg last night with no reaction from the knee - so jogged up and down a further four times, all very gentle but promising. I didn't want to risk overdoing it, so got the mountain bike out today in wet, stormy weather. Headed up Waun y Llyn, then along the old railway to Llanfynydd. Two large trees blocked the path, and were very difficult to pass, very muddy all the way. Enjoyed the steep climb back to Cymau, then extended the route through Llay and Burton past more fallen trees and structural damage. Will try another jog up Pen y Cloddiau tomorrow: a slow recovery could finally be on the cards.

South Cheshire Loop

Road cycling:HK-Holt-Malpas-Bangor-Holt-HK
Distance: 70k
Pushed the bike mileage a little more today, although it was a largely flat tour on pleasantly scenic and surprisingly quiet roads. Horribly cold throughout, as I started at 8am and the sun failed to peep through the clouds. It remained below freezing for the entire ride: cue agonising hot flushes in hands and feet when I returned (worse even than those typically experienced when ice climbing!). This may explain why the loop took longer than expected: 2.45. After a steeper ride (Hope Mountain x2) tomorrow, I'm hoping to at least try a short run next week.

Horseshoe Pass road ride

Road cycling: HK-Horseshoe Pass-HK
Distance: 36m
Took advantage of a weather window and a very early start to begin to push the bike mileage slightly, by way of preparation for my first Sportives in March. This went well, and was reasonably quiet (all the traffic in the opposite direction). I found the long gradual climb from HK via Treuddyn and Rhydtalog to be enjoyable and comfortable, and really enjoyed it. Slipped into the small ring just for the final push: 70 mins from home to the Ponderosa. Clear, crisp sunshine at the top of the Horseshoe. Descended the same way - it took almost as long as the climb for some reason: just under 2:15 for the ride.

Clwydian MTB ride

MTB Route: Over the Top (Famau-Gellifor-Penbarras) variant
Distance: 34k
Having come to accept that I'll be away from running for some time with the injury, which now looks like a torn meniscus, it's been an easy decision to focus on the cycling. So it was nice to be able to do this circuit with Dave B and Pete this morning. Pleasant climbing from the Famau car park round the hillside to the Cilcain path. Then a predictably muddy crossing of the ridge, some drizzle, before a very enjoyable descent with a misty cloud inversion in the Vale of Clwyd. Great riding down the bridleways into the mist at Gellifor, then along to Llanbedr and up Bwlch Penbarras. I remembered to record my time for this brutal climb this time: 16m from village to Bwlch. After this, I tagged one of the easy blue loops from the car park back through the forest trails to Penbarras.

Cwm Glas

Peak/Crag: Carnedd Ugain (Cwm Glas)
Routes: Sinister Gully (wIII:2,2,4,2,2:led p.1,2,4), Gyrn Las Ridge (wI/II:sol)
Another very enjoyable mountaineering outing, rather similar to last Monday but arguably even more varied and pseudo-Alpine in tone. Our plans were initially more ambitious, involving a route out of Cwm Glas followed by more routes on the Trinity Face. But the weather was again far worse than forecast, and my knee injury remains a real concern (tried a brief run on Friday, very painful). As a result of this surplus energy, we stormed the steep walk-in past Gyrn Las in less than an hour: moving, as so often, into a different world as we gained Cwm Glas - an Arctic bowl of snow and ice. We began up Parsley Fern, intending to do Left-Hand, but Sinister Gully looked like it had good ice (although the main pitch was in the clag) so we moved round and ploughed up the enjoyable wide slabby ice groove at the start. Superb neve led to a flake, so we tied on and I led up the next easy pitch - a series of icy steps and flakes to more good snow-ice. After another belay, I led up frozen turf to the base of the main pitch which Vic led. This was steep water ice for 10m at most, then the angle eases, although sugary snow covered all the ice on this section making for a slightly insecure finish. The route then eases but remains great fun. Two long pitches up a shallow continuation gully, superb snow-ice conditions, lead to more open slopes which lead tiringly to a little 'breche' on the Crib Goch-Crib y Ddisgyl ridge. Lovely long route, easy but interesting: very odd that there was no evidence of any recent ascents as it is normally pretty popular and was in fine nick today. A fully rimed up ridge gave interesting scrambling to the rather hostile summit of Carnedd Ugain, before a bearing north around the lip of the cwm to gain the Gyrn Las ridge in very poor viz. This didn't have thick cover, but did have a blend of old snow and verglas on the tricky chimney sections which gave good sport: an added bonus and a satisfying end to the day. Back in time for a late lunch: my knee thanking me for the short day.

Road ride

Road cycling: HK-Rhydtalog-Bwlchwyn-HK loop
Distance: 25m
After abandoning yet another attempted run last night, I was getting desperate so got the road bike out for its first proper outing. The road bike was always intended to supplement the mountain bike as security against running injury, although I never expected to get such a serious setback. Almost two weeks without running is rather strange after several years without more than two consecutive days off! This ride was shorter than intended: just over 20 miles, less than 90 mins, from HK to Rhydtalog and back via Bwlchgwyn. But it was a lot of fun, and bodes well for what may become a vital running replacement. I've entered my first cycle sportive, indeed my first ever road biking event - 100k around Cheshire in March - to at least give me a target if the cycling becomes a permanent fixture.

Nant Ffrancon snow gullies

Peak/Crag: Foel Goch (East Face)
Routes: Red Gully (wI/II:sol)
Peak/Crag: Y Garn (Cwm Cywion)
Routes: No.3 Gully (wII:sol)
Red Gully is one of the most obvious winter lines in Ogwen, particularly from the A5, and it was clear that it was complete as I drove up the valley. The steep pull into Cwm Coch is always a good test of fitness, and I arrived at the base of the gully in 30 minutes. The route itself is easy but excellent, ideal for a solo day: a very deep, twisting and atmospheric gully, one of the best of its kind locally. No steps, no evidence of ascents, despite ideal neve conditions which are fairly rare on this low crag. It is very gentle initially as it climbs between high retaining walls before steepening and twisting left, up a couple of steps of frozen turf, to a splendid steep finish on superb neve. As I pulled onto the plateau, the weather (already far worse than forecast) deteriorated, wind and snow for the unavoidable trudge to the top of Foel Goch (less than an hour from the car - indeed, almost a direct line from car to summit via this route). I then dropped down into Cwm Cywion to the south, and traversed across to Gully No.2 (False Banana Gully). I remember getting blown over here in weirdly strong funnelled winds 20 years ago. It's just a gentle wide gully until the last 80m or so. I took the steeper right hand exit (No.3 gully) up mild mixed ground, some turfy steps amidst the snow slopes, to another steep finish on more superb neve. Notable cornice by Welsh standards. Terrible weather for the trudge up Y Garn, the summit no place for lunch, so I descended the NE ridge to get out of the wind. Heavy driving snow so, after lunch high on the ridge, I plunged down one of the shallow gullies overlooking Cywion and gained the grassy base of the cwm in steady rain. Minimal stress to the knee injury, but still no running (11 days off and counting!).

Black Ladders

Crag: Ysgolion Duon/Black Ladders
Routes: Eastern Gully (wIII 3+,3,1,1,2,2+:led p.2,4,6)
Peaks: Carnedd Llewellyn, Yr Elen
Area: Carneddau
A complete contrast with the last big day out on Christmas Eve. If that was the ice-cragging trip, this was the archetypal full winter mountain day, almost exactly one year since our ascent of Central Gully on the same crag. That day was memorable because of the appalling conditions, whereas today was a delightfully benign contrast. Warm weather after Christmas has stripped most of the snow, but a recent re-freeze has bought easy high routes dependent on consolidated snow into fine condition. It was obvious even from the A55 that Eastern Gully was the most complete line on the crag. Given my injury, ski-poles were vital for the long walk-in, which was virtually snow-free. Surprisingly, we found that the initial icefall was quite well formed, so Vic led it. The ice was new, rather brittle and thin, and it gave a tricky pitch for the lowly grade - in many ways harder than Idwal's South Gully in December. Good snow-ice led to a ramp below a rock wall, then thin front-pointing on dinner-plating ice led to easier shelves and frozen turf. I then led up an almost bare rock wall, awkward moves up an iced crack to frozen turf, then up some of Eastern arete before we traversed into the main gully bed and romped up superb easy-angled neve for two long pitches. Great mountain atmosphere on this most rewarding of Welsh crags, and excellent gully scenery. The route was in great condition, its leanness only made it more interesting. Vic led over a tight constriction to more good neve and a mini cave belay. This gave me a great little pitch up the steeper right-hand exit, on fantastic frozen turf to steeper snow - more perfect neve led to the final snow fan and exit. Just a really enjoyable straitforward mountaineering route - perfect, given my injury. We lunched on the ridge with the sun trying to peep through a high layer of cloud. All the lines on the Ladders perfectly exposed by the thin conditions. A superb walk followed, along the ridge to Llywellyn on a potentially hazardous mixture of new snow and iron-hard neve. A quick dram of schnapps, and along the ridge to Yr Elen - one of my favourite corners of Snowdonia. Superb views to Cwm Caseg (see Feb 2010) and the Ladders. I was dreading the descent, given my injury, but it went OK with the poles, following the spur all the way to the end before a wet river crossing gained the path to Bethesda. A great way to end the holiday, and start the year, but the injury is still an issue.