Caire de Cougourde

Peaks: Caire de Cougourde (2921m/9583ft)
Area: Maritime Alps, France
Routes: SE Ridge/Voie Normale (uI+)
Alongside Maledie, this was another obvious gap in my Mercantour CV and another very striking rock peak. Indeed, it is such a compelling objective from the Cougourde hut that I felt obliged to do it before breakfast, even though the original intention had just been to rest after yesterday's 'vertical kilometre' run. A peaceful night saw all the mist melt away to leave a starlit early morning. I managed to sneak away from the hut without waking the children but then had real difficulty following the path to Lac des Sagnes. I've done this before, when going up Cime de l'Agnel, but it is rather tenuous in the dark with no headtorch! I picked my way from cairn to cairn, then the light improved as I reached the crucial turn-off towards the Combe du Cougourde. This goes very steeply east, rapidly gaining height below the stunning west face (indeed, as with Maledie, it was a shame to just be soloing the normal route rather than enjoying the obviously superb rock climbing it had to offer). The path is, by Mercantour standards, easy to follow and well cairned. It leads quite quickly to a 20m slabby wall taken on good holds which gives access to the upper cwm. This heads up towards Cime des Gaisses initially before veering north to take a broad spur towards a good traverse path below the hidden east face. The cwm up here is just a deep bowl of shattered scree, surrounded by vertical rock, and is quite an intimidating place alone at 6.15am. That said, after almost 20 years exploring the Maritime Alps on my own, these situations are quite familiar: I can count on one hand the other people I've seen on the 30+ peaks I've climbed in the area. Rough scree, followed by 30m of more solid slabby scrambling, then led up to the Baisse du Cougourde, the onward route still looking utterly unfeasible at this point. It seems so unlikely that a simple voie normale exists, but, sure enough, on emerging at the Baisse all is revealed as a simple broad ridge line leads up to the summit. Before starting up the ridge, I spent a few minutes gaping at the awesome view as the sun rose over the shoulder of Gelas. Again, a cloud inversion on the Italian side meant superb views of the nearby peaks. These got better as I ascended the simple slopes to the right of the SE ridge. This gradually became steeper near the summit as the route snaked left and became more exposed with a few easy rocky steps. The views from the small top were predictably electrifying. The ridge from here, Peak 1 of the Cougourde (the high point), over to Peak 4, looked superb but sadly unfeasible solo. The descent via the same route was surprisingly simple and very quick, and I got to the hut before 8am with the breakfast coffee still warm! After a short rest in the sunshine, we all began the descent which was absolutely delightful in the morning sunshine. We all really enjoyed it, I think, and a second breakfast in the lovely woodland near the Pont Peirastreche prolonged our time in the valley before washing in the river, heading to see the wolves in Boreon, and driving to Nice airport later on.

Cime de la Palu: 'Vertical Kilometre'

Peaks: Cime de la Palu (2132m/6995ft)
Area: Maritime Alps, France
Route/Time: KmV 'Race'/53:31
This was a perfect opportunity to stretch my legs after the rigours of the last two days: a chance to run unencumbered in the gentle 2200m hills above St Martin in contrast to my more usual mountaineering trips up the higher peaks in these parts. After the luxury of a family room at the Gite in St Grat, we had one more trip from Boreon to the Cougourde hut, which necessitated a visit to St Martin Vesubie, my favourite Alpine town. I haven't been here for two years, and was delighted to find that - as luck would have it - the local council has developed a series of trail runs around the green hills that surround the town. As soon as I saw the 'Vertical Kilometre' outing, it became an unavoidable challenge and I changed into my running kit immediately. Kate and the children went to a cafe while I jogged up Rue Docteur Cagnoli to the start of the route. I'd never seen anything quite like it: an accurately measured and marked out route, with each 100m of ascent signposted, up to the 1000m finish just below the summit of Cime de la Palu - a 2200m peak that towers above St Martin. I set out at around 4.5mins per 100m pace, and managed to maintain this up to a more runnable section as I emerged from the treeline at the 700m mark. Breaking the hour seemed like an obvious target but I had three disadvantages. First, no caffeine. Second, some fatigue after the last two days. Third, midday heat. I treated it as valuable training, though, and really enjoyed the effort - which is obviously quite an intense session with an average gradient of 27% over 4.5km or so. The 1000m mark arrives abruptly, sadly just below the true summit of Palu, and I stopped my watch comfortably below the hour on 53:31. Above this, gentle zigzags lead to a broad col below Tete du Marre, the next peak on the ridge, and I jogged over to the summit to enjoy excellent views up the Cougourde valley, our next destination. The eponymous peak is a magnificent pyramid of rock from this point and I began to think that it would make a nice trip from the hut if I could find the time. The Prefouns and Agnel peaks (2008) also impressed, as did the area I'd visited in 2010 around Lac d'Allos further north. The run back down to St Martin, in warm sunshine, was a delight. More by accident than design, I took a different route down from ? which extended the fun, and we had a picnic of local ham sandwiches and myrtille tart under the trees before driving to the Vacherie du Boreon for the walk-in to the Cougourde Hut. This walk was far more popular with the family than the more demanding outing to the Nice hut. I had deliberately chosen the Cougourde hut because of the scenic contrast: whereas the Nice hut is surrounded by dramatic and stark peaks, the Cougourde hut is situated in a truly beautiful Alpine meadow with a pastoral feel - small copses, boulders and babbling streams - with the amazing Caires du Cougourde towering above. One of my favourite spots in the range, and although I've had a meal here before, I'd never stayed. We passed a relaxing and enjoyable evening in the hut, watching the mist gradually envelop the Cougourde and other peaks.

Cime de la Maledie

Peaks: Cime de la Maledie (3059m/10036ft)
Area: Maritime Alps, Provence
Route: NW Face/Voie Normale (PD/uI+)
This magnificent peak is perhaps the most striking on the French side of the Maritime Alps and has been on my target list for many years. It was the obvious choice for a short and intense pre-breakfast outing from the Refuge du Nice. I left Kate and the children sleeping and crept out of the hut in the half-light at 5.40am: no need for 3am starts in the Maritime Alps, particularly this late in the summer. The route round the lake was easy to follow, well-cairned, as is the continuation up to Lac Long - presumably because it is also taken by the normal route up Gelas from the hut. This all helped, as it stayed dark for longer than I'd expected, and I was rewarded by a stunning red sky over Chamineye and Capelet. I was also very struck by the view back to yesterday's peak, Cime Nire, which appears as a spectacular leaning spire of rock from the entry to the wide valley containing Lac Long. Maledie towers above at this point, and the traverse remains relatively easy to follow up to the obvious problematic slabby rock band which guards entry to the upper cwms below the summit. It all added to the intrigue and enjoyment: steep slopes lead up to an intimidating side cwm, followed by a switchback to the east - tricky route-finding - which leads below a steep rock spur to slip into the little valley below the crucial Pas de Maledie (guarded from below by the rock-band). This little cwm was less intimidating than the one I'd left, but very atmospheric, and I rapidly gained the obvious steep couloir leading to the Pas. This gave some fine scrambling, around II, and was relatively solid. At the top of the Pas, I passed into Italy and gained a broad shelf of scree and stunning views over a cloud inversion in the Italian valleys. Monte Viso towered above the cloud, which the low sun had coloured orange, and vague distant glimpses of Gran Paradiso and Monte Rosa were satisfying, as I've climbed both. I was expecting a long traverse below the north face of Maledie - but actually the crucial summit couloir is reached after a couple of hundred metres. An arete, below a big drop, marks the line - the only feasible route of ascent. After a short rocky wall above the remains of a snowfield (which is much bigger earlier in the season), very loose scree and moraine dust leads to another short wall (II). Above lies more insecure scree and the spectacular small summit (90m from hut). This gave me a few of the more memorable minutes of my many visits to the peaks of the Mercantour: truly stunning views over the cloud inversion to the east. Clapier surprisingly impressive, as were all the other mountains I've previously climbed in this small but superb area: Capelet, Gelas, Ponset, Bego et al. I reckon I've climbed more than 30 Maritime Alps peaks since our ascent of Gelas in 1994. The descent of the couloir was distinctly unpleasant, down loose and steep scree, but it went OK - as did the scrambling down from the Pas. A brief breakfast of a tiny cereal bar in the sunshine above Lac Long, and I jogged back to meet the family by Lac de la Fous by 8.30am. A short but intense outing! All the family enjoyed the walk-down considerably more than the walk-up, and we enjoyed a superb lunch of wild trout and mountain herbs at the Gite in St Grat later. Cloud rolled in during the afternoon, and an atmospheric storm enlivened the evening meal.

Cime Nire

Peaks: Cime Nire (2666m/8747ft)
Area: Maritime Alps, Provence
Routes: East Ridge (uI+), NW Gully (uII)
After a week in the Esterel sunshine, we headed up to my old stomping ground of the Maritime Alps for a brief family mountain trip bolted on to the end of our holiday. After taking the children for a night at the Lac d'Allos hut two years ago (their first visit to an Alpine hut) my plans this time were a little more ambitious. First item on the agenda was the walk-in to the Refuge du Nice. The Gordolasque valley is an area I know well, so I was relieved to be able to park at midday on a busy August Saturday. The walk-in went reasonably well. There were a few complaints from the offspring, particularly during the steep zig-zags below the Mur des Italians. The view of the waterfall was scant consolation! The cloudbase gradually lowered during the walk and the atmosphere was quite foreboding as we entered the plain of La Barme, surrounded by spectacular peaks - many of which I have climbed in the past, like Ponset, Clapier, Capelet and Collomb. A short rise gained Lac de Fous and views of the hut. This was the morale boost the team needed, and they were rewarded with a hot chocolate in the hut. After a game of scrabble, it looked like the mist was lifting slightly, so I ran up to Lac Nire before dinner. From here, it is a fairly simple matter to traverse the boulder fields and plough up the slopes to an obvious scree gully, the only real way to access the Pas de Nire between the two peaks of Tete du Lac Autier and Cime Nire. The cloud began to descend again as I reached the pass, so I made a snap decision to go for the lower - but more striking - peak of Cime Nire. This was short but excellent. A fine narrow ridge gave a bit of scrambling to an obvious forepeak, after which grass slopes led down to a pronounced col. The final north ridge looks very steep from a distance, but on closer inspection only the first and last 20 metres give any real scrambling. A few short rock walls, on good but lichen covered rock (I assume this peak is very rarely ascended), led to easier slopes before a steep final wall gave more easy rock climbing to a small summit (45m from hut). The cloud base was only just above the cairn, limiting the views but increasing the atmosphere. After a cautious descent, I decided to give Tete du Lac Autier a miss, mindful of conserving some energy for tomorrow morning. As a result, I opted to take the steeper NW gully leading directly down from the col to the lake as a more direct route back to the hut after analysing the feasibility of the line from a high vantage point. This was very loose in places - indeed the one steep section that looked worrying from above was actually the most solid 10m section of the gully. But it had the virtue of directness and I soon picked up the more solid boulder field above Lac Nire before gaining the GR52 and good quick running back to the hut, where we all enjoyed a superb four course dinner with local lamb and cheese from the vacherie in the valley.

Carreg Alltrem climbing

Crag: Carreg Alltrem, Lledr Valley
Routes: Lightning Visit (VS 4b,4c:led p.1), Lavaredo (VS 4b,5a:led p.1)
A brief visit to this tranquil valley near Dolwyddelan. I led the two classic VS's 20 years ago, but, struggling with bruised ribs, they were the only real option today. The bruised ribs were one problem, another issue was the steady drizzle that failed to clear. The easy first pitch of Lightning Visit was more tricky than it might have been, as a result, with watery pockets and greasy rock. My ribs hurt a little as I followed Mick up the steepish final groove. After a nasty descent down the gully, I nipped up the first pitch of Lavaredo. This route was as good as I remembered, certainly one of the finest VS's in South Snowdonia. Nice intricate climbing up a groove leads to steep moves right to a spike, then a pull back left round an arete - tricky for the grade - leading to easy ground. Mick led the steep top pitch, which takes in some exposed and steep ground for the grade. Up to some flakes, lots of space below, then a hard pull up to more good holds and fine climbing to the top. Abbed down, in some pain, and reluctantly called it a day. Annoying, as the sun had come out, and I'd planned to do a fell race in the evening.

Pen y Fan fell race

Race: Pen y Fan fell race (3.5m/2000ft/AS)
Time/Position: 40:21 (15th from 130 [2nd V40])
Peaks: Corn Du, Pen y Fan
Area: Brecon Beacons
I wasn't too sure how this would go, given my recent Alpine exertions, but wanted to give it a bash as it was one of this year's Welsh Championship series. I'm glad we made the effort to drive down just a few hours after returning from the Alps, as it is one of the best short fell races anywhere, a real classic which packs a great deal of action into 5k. A strong field meant an uncomfortably fast start up steep but runnable slopes from the start in Cwm Llwch above Brecon (E started next to me at the same time in the junior race!). My muscles immediately felt drained of energy, and I had a peculiar aching sensation even in my biceps for some reason. I recovered a bit as the slopes levelled off for the contouring path round to the obelisk on the ridge up Corn Du. This then becomes a steep 'pavement', up which I could only stride in my fatigued state. Some light, humid mist as I crested Corn Du then pelted over to Pen y Fan in a slow 30.04 - 18th at this point. Then comes the classic descent, steeply down rock steps to very steep grass - numerous runners literally rolling down the hillside, or using impromptu (and presumably painful) buttock sledges to descend. I managed to stay upright, just, and took the obvious traverse line due north but corrected myself when I saw others pelting straight down to the base of the cwm - thinking there may have been a checkpoint there. There wasn't, so I resumed the contouring and crossed the river efficiently before enjoying the very fast onward route down gentler slopes to the finish (10:17 for the descent - the 7th fastest, rather surprisingly as I felt I'd taken a bad line).

Alagna climbing

Crag: Alagna village boulder, Alagna Valsesia
Routes: Left Arete (f4:sol), Slab Left (f4:sol), Slab Centre (f5:sol), Slab Right (f5:sol)
Another large glacial erratic, in the mould of the one we discovered at Merletti yesterday morning. This one also had bolted climbs up it, but was far more amenable, and smaller, and gave just a few minutes exercise after I'd relaxed with an afternoon beer following this morning's lengthy Valsesia traverse. The routes on the right on the slab were affected by lichen, the others were short slabs of pocketed granite.

Valsesia traverse

Peaks: Cornello Tailly (2708m/8884ft)

Area: Valsesia, Pennine Alps, Italy

A bitterly cold morning, despite the relatively low altitude of the hut (2500m). I wanted to catch the sun rising over Monte Tagliaferro across the valley to the east, however, so put on all my layers and left the hut just after 5am. Pink and orange alpenglow lit the walls of Corno Biano behind the hut, and the sun gradually rose above the shoulder of Tagliaferro before sinking back behind the bulk of the peak. We left the hut after a brief and painfully brew-less breakfast to continue the planned traverse of the range just before 6am. The route gradually moves south through the cwm containing the massively diminished Otro glacier. Huge boulders scattered throughout the cwm made for difficult route-finding and slow progress, but reminded me strongly of the 'clapier' fields that typify my main stomping ground of the Maritime Alps. Familiar terrain indeed, but this kind of chaotic landscape is never easy to negotiate. We eventually gained the very steep scree slopes up the side wall to the Colletto di Tailly, steep enough indeed to give some scrambling as light relief from the shifting moraine debris. From the small sunlit col, a stunning view to the north over the emerald green slopes of Punta Straling opened up, with the remarkable white wall of Monte Rose rising beyond. This is certainly up there with the best views in Europe, particularly in this superbly clear early morning light. Huw was some way behind at this point, so I took the opportunity to scramble up the ridge to the highpoint of Cornello Tailly, which is essentially the top of one of the many spurs thrown down by the parent peak of Corno Biano (but which appears as an impressive spire from the Otro valley below). After descending to the col, I met Huw for a brief rest. From here, an annoying descent led to the greener cwm containing the Tailly lakes, but we fashioned an efficient contouring line to cut the corner of the cwm and find what I hoped was the onward route up Corno Biano - the day's objective and indeed the objective of this entire two-day traverse. A tiny path led up steep grass to a 60ft pitch up a slabby wall. A cable eased progress somewhat, but it felt safer to ignore it: the wall gave fine scrambling up small positive holds at around II+. Above, the route eased to eventually gain a superbly wild Alpine cwm containing the remnants of the Nevaio di Puio glacier. This is a genuinely remote spot, at least five hours walk from the nearest road. Huw had a rest - the weather remaining perfectly sunny and stable - while I picked my way through the moraines at the bottom of this glacial bowl to a series of steepish snow slopes which led to the south wall of the cwm. It all felt like a rather obscure route up the peak and I could see no evidence of tracks or previous ascents this year: surely this can't have been the first by this route this season? The wall to the south appeared almost sheer, but I initially followed route marks to a steep wall and had high hopes of finding the chains that supposedly eased progress up the crags to the breche. I was well above 3000m by now, and the summit was very close. Sadly, however, I failed to find a feasible onward route: I hadn't packed the rope and was unwilling to commit to the onward route in terrain like this, which was potentially quite serious, without being sure. This was all bitterly disappointing, and I can only conclude that the cairns and perhaps even the chains were buried under the substantial amount of late season snow that remained in the cwm. I made my way back to Huw and we descended to the sun-drenched Tailly Lakes to continue the grand traverse. The path down this side of the valley was, if anything, even more remote and obscure than the route of ascent on the north side of the Otro: it became slippery, tenuous and physically draining, although the views of Monte Rosa remained stupendous and admirably compensated. The path weaved and twisted and was hopelessly vegetated in places, seemingly devoid of any human traffic, but we finally gained the bottom of the valley and an easier onward riverside route to Alagna. This joined the ascent route just above the village, and we got to the deli a few minutes before it shut for lunch.

Passo dell'Uomo Storto

Peaks: P. dell'Uomo Storto (2874m/9429ft)
Area: Valsesia, Pennine Alps, Italy
It was a tricky task to decide what to do with our remaining two days in the Alps. We were tempted to head over to Switzerland, but in the end we decided to maximise the time in the mountains by going for a two day traverse of the lower Valsesia peaks. This was, if you like, the 'green' trip - in contrast to the earlier 'white' trip up the high peaks of Monte Rosa. The contrast was wonderful, and remarkable given the two ranges proximity: indeed, the starting point again was Alagna. We didn't even need the car. We set off just before midday up the wooded slopes which shroud the side of the Otro valley, feeling fairly comfortable after yesterday's exertions. Delightful walking led to the treeline and a stunning moment as we emerged into Alpine meadows near the village of Follu. This, and the other Walser (Germanic) villages around Valsesia reminded me quite strongly of Nepalese treks. No road access, beautiful stone-built cottages, and superb views over to Monte Tagliaferro, a striking rock peak east of Alagna. The walking then became even more Himalayan in character, following broad donkey tracks through a series of beautiful traffic-free remote villages. First came Scarpia, preceded by tranquil Alpine meadows. After a brief lunch, we continued along the tracks - here part of the long distance Tour de Monte Rosa - up to the even more remote Pianmisura. At this point, our route to the bivvy hut broke off and immediately became very tortuous and surprisingly hard to follow. It was considerably overgrown in places, but soon the vegetation died away and the scenery became more high mountain as we gained the wild cwm containing Lac Terrafrancia. Above this, a steep moraine led to another small glacial lake with the Ravelli Bivouac hut on a small spur above. The location was stunning, and our choice of outing seemed vindicated. The views over the Otro valley towards Tagliaferro, Piglimo and Cima Carnera were wonderful, as were the closer views up the rock walls of Corno Biano. The hut was memorable: a small metal tube containing a cosy wood-panelled chamber, gas stove and four beds. We were, needless to say, the only residents (the four hour walk-in presumably prevents overcrowding!). And, according to the hut book, perhaps the first foreigners to have visited for several years. After a break and snack, I headed off on an afternoon outing, up the snow slopes above the hut. These steep slopes led to a small peak above a spur then a remote ice-dammed lake.  I skirted this along a moraine, then gained steep and unpleasant scree up to the tiny breche of the Passo dell'Uomo Storto ('Crippled Man'), a classic high Alpine pass linking Valsesia and Gressoney: two neighbouring valleys with different linguistic heritage and culture (very broadly 'French' in Gressoney, Germanic in Valsesia, despite both being in Italy), an illustration of the remoteness and difficulty of this pass, perhaps! I then scrambled up the sharp peak to the north at 2874m, which was essentially a giant gendarme on the multi-crested ridge between Corno Rosso and the parent peak of Corno Bianco. The north ridge up Bianco looked superb. The weather then closed in, with a brief shower as I descended to the hut. Later, a much heavier shower gave way to a stunning rainbow - truly memorable - stretched across the entire Otro valley with the eastern peaks beyond.

Merletti climbing

Crag: Merletti, Valsesia
Routes: Central Slab (f6a+:led), Left Slab (f6a:sec)
Rather tired after yesterday's exertions, so this morning we allowed ourselves a leisurely breakfast then drove north up the valley to the roadhead above the Pastore Refuge for excellent views of the East wall of the Italian side of Monte Rosa. This face gets almost Himalayan in scale further north towards Macugnaga, but even here the upward views are impressive. I spied a large bolted boulder right by the road near Merletti and couldn't resist having a go at the central line up the steep slab marking the south side of the boulder, maybe 40ft high. This proved far more technical than it looked, with a desperate start at 6b/c or so using tiny sidepulls and foot smears to move above the first bolt. Tired after yesterday, I resorted to a brief spot of aid to gain easier climbing above. Small horizontal ledges then made for easier progress to the top. The route further left was a little easier, but it still had a hard start. We then left for the village to get some provisions before embarking on our next trip up to the Ravelli bivouac hut.

Monte Rosa traverse

Peaks: Signalkuppe (4556m/14947ft), Ludwigshohe (4341m/14242ft), Corno Nero/Schwarzhorn (4321m/14176ft)
Routes: South-West Flank (F+), South-West Ridge (PD-), North-West Flank (PD)
Area: Monte Rosa, Pennine Alps, Italy
A relatively late start by Alpine standards, with a 4am breakfast call, perhaps illustrating the pedestrian nature of this route up the Italian flank of Monte Rosa. But it was still exciting to be back in the high Alps, despite our modest plans for the day, and I savoured the ambience as we set off from the Mantova hut up the Garstelet glacier just before 5am. Small pools of light from the headtorch soon gave way to the half light of early morning, and the eerie blue glow from the glacial scenery and large seracs below Vincent. I kept a slow plod going, but Huw began to suffer again as we began the steep slopes east of Vincent. This was hardly surprising, given our short period of acclimatisation, and he seemed OK after a short rest. We continued in this vein, plodding upwards to the col then curving west past some big crevasses towards the Lyskamm. We passed just below the rocky outcrop of the Balmenhorn before gaining the Lysjoch - the obvious large col where views open out to the north. Passing into Switzerland, we enjoyed the superb new views over the Dufourspitze ahead and Matterhorn left. Some big cloud banks boiled over the ridges of the Matterhorn and Ober Gabelhorn. The contrast between the rocky peaks around Zermatt and the enchanting white world of Monte Rosa was stunning. The dramatic beauty of these upper Monte Rosa slopes is just remarkable: the low sun now reflecting off the fresh snow crystals. Huw continued to struggle, however, and as we traversed below the Parrotspitze life became much harder as the new snow had blown around and drifted in places. Soft and draining plodding is never ideal: even less so at this altitude, and his pace understandably slowed dramatically. After several breaks, we finally crested the steep and windblown slopes up to the Col Gnifetti. Huw couldn't go any further, but I could untie safely up here and enjoyed the final icy slopes up to the summit of Signalkuppe and its celebrated hut. Surprisingly steep and icy, quite sporting: a little over 3 hours from Rifugio Mantova. Great views from the summit, although cloud boiled up again to the east. The desperately cold wind was a real problem, however, and I was conscious of Huw waiting at the col. My feet were getting very cold, so I tore myself away from the views of Nordend and beyond to climb down the steep slope to rejoin him. I really wanted to take in the Zumsteinspitze and was very disappointed not to be able to, but Huw had to descend. As we approached the Parrotspitze, another key target, I asked again - but he was still suffering so we had to continue down. A shame, but as we regained the Lysjoch, sunshine and calm weather, Huw started to feel better and agreed to wait while I collected a few more peaks. I thoroughly enjoyed the lovely symmetrical snow arete leading SE to the summit of the Ludwigshohe. The weather was clearing west, and I was struck by the proximity of the fine looking peak of Corno Nero, probably the most impressive summit on this ridge. I could not resist, so ploughed down to the Zurbriggen col and up the 40m steep slope to the summit. This gave very enjoyable easy snow climbing, perhaps grade II in UK winter terms, and led up to a very airy summit ridge. A spectacular location, with stunning views over the ridge back to Signalkuppe. Stunning clarity of light, with the deepest blue sky imaginable and distant views even to Monte Viso, well to the south. I now had to get back to Huw, which necessitated a climb back over the Ludwigshohe arete. This was tough, and I started to suffer towards the top, but a long downward plod to the Mantova hut was all we had left to do. After a break, we headed down the easier lower route to the Indren glacier and the cable cars: low cloud by now, quite grim higher up. A late lunch of proscuito panini in Alagna was much appreciated, and we then enjoyed a few hours of relaxation at the campsite.

Piramide Vincent

Peaks: Piramide Vincent (4215m/13829ft)
Routes: North-West Flank (F)
Area: Monte Rosa, Pennine Alps, Italy
An acclimatisation outing on one of the the most straightforward of the bigger Alpine peaks. It worked very well in that respect, as our time was very limited (four days in the Alps!) and we had plans to go well above 4500m tomorrow. This very rapid ascent to 4000m+ was always going to be physically challenging, as Huw and I had flown into Milan just yesterday evening, then woken up first thing to get the trio of cable cars from our camp in Alagna up to the top station at Punta Indren. But despite the rapid ascent to altitude we didn't feel too bad as we plodded across the lower Ghiacciaio di Indren from Punta Indren and took the upper branch of the marked route to the short upper glacier. This gave a fine scramble up a steep but broken moraine/wall, for which we removed crampons. Some enjoyable easy rock walls leds to short icy sections then a longer series of ladders, cable and rocky walls to gain the small Garstelet glacier between the Gnifetti and Mantova huts. We roped up, then took it fairly easy for the glacier plod above Gnifetti to the steeper slopes below the seracs which lead up towards the Lysjoch. The weather was superb in terms of clarity, but a vicious wind was clearly going to compromise our comfort slightly. It was great to be back in the high Alps, however - my first trip above 4000m since 1998! As we approached the broad col west of Vincent, views opened out. The Lyskamm was particularly notable, as was the more distant Mont Blanc and Gran Paradiso, reminding me of our ascent back in 1995. The wind made life tricky for the final climb up Vincent, as it whipped across the gap, covering the tracks and cutting through our clothes. Fortunately, we had plenty of extra layers, and the final push through a tiny cornice to the summit went quite well. A bank of cloud was boiling up the Piedmontese side of the ridge lending superb definition to the notable sharp summit of Corno Nero. We didn't waste much time on the summit, and plunged back down to the col, taking it easier for the descent down to Rifugio Mantova as the clouds began to gather above. An expensive plate of excellent gnocchi, alongside an even more expensive beer, made a fine lunch. This was my tactic, sleeping as low as was feasible (still 3500m though) and, alongside a modest intake of ibuprofen, it made for a reasonably comfortable night in this pleasantly updated, though pricey, hut. Good views from the terrace down to Valsesia, Aosta and Gran Paradiso, and up to the Lyskamm and Piramide Vincent, which looks surprisingly impressive from below.

Deestriders Off Road race

Race: Deestriders Off-Road Grand Prix Race 2 (5.6m)

Time/Position: 35.59 (8th from 92 [3rd V40])
A rather confusing series of cross-country loops around the no-man's land between Shotton and the Dee. I really struggled to hold any kind of pace this evening, and had no real idea where I was in relation to the rest of the race as we seemed to do one too many laps at the far end of the course. I've never indulged in this long-established local evening series before, partly because it's not the most appealing locale, but it does make for a good speed session. One big loop along the Dee was followed by a shorter series of wooded loops with sharp XC turns and little banks and hills. Then a long loop back towards Chester through a bog. Not exactly my cup of tea, and I lost several places in the last mile or two. Very humid throughout, or maybe that was just me struggling with the pace!

Ras Foel Fras

Race: Foel Fras fell race (12m/3100ft/BL)
Time/Position: 1:48:58 (2nd from 52 [1st V40])
Peaks: Drum, Foel Fras, Garnedd Uchaf, Moel Wnion
If last Sunday's win was unexpected, pulling into the lead in this long fell race after Garnedd Uchaf was even more surprising. It's my third or fourth time at this event, and it's one I really enjoy - with the very long but fairly gradual climb up Drum from Aber leading to big gaps between runners and some often quite challenging conditions on the higher tops spicing things up a bit. I gradually moved through the field on the climb, which is runnable throughout even for me, and was in second place as a fierce squally shower came in as we got to the top of Drum in less than 45m. I gradually started gaining on the chap in front during the boggy, hard climb up Foel Fras but he stayed away as the weather really closed in for the aquatic run over to Garnedd Uchaf (Carnedd Gwenllian as it now is). I finally caught him on Garnedd Uchaf in dire weather: heavy rain turning to hail, strong winds. There's no good route down to the traverse path, so I just ploughed through the boulders trying to keep the right line. I was getting colder and colder, and had memories of this race in 2009 - when a ferocious squall at exactly this point decimated the field and led to a few hypothermia cases - so I put on my jacket and checked the bearing briefly as I was now alone at the front of the race. This delay may have ended up costing me the race, but at least I was then comfortable and confident about the navigation. I upped the pace down to Llwybr yr Aryg and a marshall, then kept a good pace to the bwlch below Moel Wnion. I seemed to be well out in front as the sun came out, and to my surprise it looked like I was going to win a race for the second time in six days. I jogged up to the summit of Wnion, risking a backward glance and not seeing anyone in the big landscape. But then I looked over to the right, and saw that a) I was 100m left of the checkpoint and b) a previously unseen Eryri runner was storming up a more direct route up Wnion! I pelted across to the checkpoint and began the descent, but was inevitably caught and passed within a couple of minutes. Try as I might, I couldn't catch him on the very long descent, and was now uncomfortably hot in my coat and buff! Ended up a good 50 seconds behind, in second place at the finishing tape back in Aber village. I knew my time was a PB for the course, but suspect the time given was too fast: I didn't properly record my time but I don't think it was sub 1:50 as the results suggest. A great event as always, a real mountain race in one of my favourite areas.

Snowdon run

Peaks: Yr Wyddfa (1065)
An opportunistic post-work run up Snowdon from Llanberis. After meeting in Lixwm, five of us set off from the town at 6.45pm in unexpectedly benign conditions of high cloud and high humidity. The initial climb up the metalled road seemed even steeper than it does in the race, but the tourist route soon levels off to give superbly enjoyable running up to the steepening at Allt Moses. We split into two groups, with Jez, Neil and I keeping a steady jog going throughout the steep climb to Clogwyn station and up the nasty scree beyond. I always think this is the crux of the race: indeed I tend to walk parts of this section. The forecast, it became clear, was completely wrong. Instead of 100m cloud base and steady drizzle, we found superb conditions of light shifting mist and a gathering cloud inversion. Quite spectacular as we crested the steep hill to the summit ridge, with mist peeling away from Clogwyn y Garnedd. It's been a while since I've been up Snowdon in the evening: it's always a reminder of what a great peak it is. Nobody on top, just a few runners around, and tremendous views down to Glaslyn and over to Crib Goch. A huge cloud bank to the east: with Cader, Aran and Berwyn visible above. Swirling mist over Nantlle but, again, the summits were above the cloud. We were up in just over an hour, spend 15 minutes or so enjoying the scenery before the cold wind sent us scampering down for an exhilarating descent to Llanberis where we met up with Rich and Rob just after 8.30pm. We even had time for a quick recovery pint in Ysgeifiog.

Craig y Bere climbing

Crag/Peak: Craig y Bere, Mynydd Mawr
Routes: Angel Pavement (HS 4b:led p.1,3,5), Pinnacle Ridge* (D:sol), Sentries Ridge (D:sol)
Another one of those rather obscure mountaineering routes that has lurked somewhere in the recesses of my mind for 25 years or so. I was last up at Craig y Bere 12 years ago for a mass ascent (including Kate) of Sentries Ridge. It's a strange place, rather disconcerting with its crumbling pinnacles and shifting scree: hence the gap between visits. But when I climbed the Eastern Arete of Y Garn a couple of years ago, I looked again at Angel Pavement from the other side of the valley: it's a tremendous line, an obvious weakness which takes a linked sequence of slabby gangways to negotiate the most impressive and coherent section of the cliff. Quite humid as Mick and I walked in from Planwydd, mercifully dry after weeks of unsettled weather. A steep early climb leads to a good contouring path towards the unappealing looking first pitch. I led, finding it a tad better than it appeared. Not much gear, as expected, but no technical difficulty and it could actually be adequately protected with an inventive use of small cams. Scrappy ground led to slabs, then a short juggy wall to a grass ledge. All the rock needs testing, but most of the loose stuff has been shed over the years. Mick's second pitch was better, and very photogenic as he traversed out above Nantlle to gain a good clean slab. This gives interesting easy climbing and another long 46m pitch to a small ledge below the obvious wet overhang. I then led the crux third pitch, supposedly 4b. Damp slabs below the overhang lead to a tapering of the slab line as it narrows and steepens to form a rib. The crux moves are so brief as to be barely noticeable: a steep pull, with abundant gear (for once) leads to big holds and broken ground - emerging at another small ledge in a superb position looking across to the Nantlle ridge and over the rest of Craig y Bere. The fourth pitch takes a broken rib to nasty grass slopes then a shattered corner, while my short fifth was even more scrappy. Very much a climb to go to with a mountaineering head on: it does have a little whiff of seriousness for the grade, but is so technically simple that it just adds to the route. The climbing may not be especially satisfying, but it is a rewarding experience, and I proposed to continue the day in the same vein. We both descended a steep scree gully beyond the finishing pinnacle, exposed initially, then merely awkward. Mick left for home after lunch at the sacs, and I bombed up the first section of Pinnacle Ridge, finding it rather too loose for comfort. At the upper headwall, I sneaked off down a side groove and headed over to Sentries Ridge. Mick had taken most of the gear, so with a light sack I raced up the ridge in just over 10 minutes. I'd forgotten what a good scramble it is: one of the best in Snowdonia, marred only by its escapeability. I took the gendarmes direct, moving left over the gully for the highest, most crumbly one before realising my error and regaining the crest. Not particularly loose nowadays, certainly compared to Pinnacle Ridge. I ran to the top of Mynydd Mawr and enjoyed five minutes total peace before running flat out back to the car via the lovely curving grassy ridge above Craig y Bere. Great views down to Cwellyn and great downhill running throughout.

Riverbank Race

Race: Riverbank Race/Eddie Faure Memorial '10k' (Rhuddlan)
Time/Position: 33:20 (1st from 57)
I've wanted to do this event for a while, as it starts so close to the ancestral home, but didn't really expect to be pulling into the lead after the first short lap around some fields led to a long flat stretch along the gravel cob which lines the River Clwyd. Billed as a multi-terrain race, this was a new version of the course which soon left the cob - and escaped a sharp headwind - to traverse a series of fields before gaining a muddy embankment which led back to Rhuddlan. This felt more like a traditional cross-country race at times, after the rain we've had. I hadn't wanted to take the lead so early, but found myself completely committed after less than a mile. As the headwind turned into a tailwind I relaxed on the first lap then tried to push it a bit into the headwind on the cob second time round. It was all a rather novel experience, as I have only ever led races briefly in the past, so I just concentrated on not panicking and maintaining a reasonable gap on the second lap. After all the recent running in the hills, the mud was no real obstacle, but the flat pounding is always a shock in summer so it was with some relief that I entered the caravan site for the final time. My first ever overall win in any sort of race, after 14 years of running, and as such a rather surprising day out. The race certainly wasn't 10k, as this would have been a PB on a tough off-road course. Somebody said it was 5.8 miles, which sounds about right.

Hotfoot up Famau

Race: Hotfoot up Famau fell race (3.5m/1500ft/AS)
Time/Position: 38.13 (5th from 96 [2nd V40])
It's that time of year again: the races come thick and fast, with little recovery between events. Fortunately, this splendid little outing - the first of Martin's summer series - is so short that you don't get much time to feel sorry for yourself. As it happened, I felt a lot better than I have done recently, taking a few seconds off my previous best time, and really enjoyed what was probably my 4th or 5th time in the event. With this race now attracting 100 or so runners, the manic start up the path from Penbarras gets harder and harder each year and I was well down the field for the dash down into the valley - the path is so narrow that it's hard to overtake. It's this early plunge that makes the race unique though, and by the time we gained the open slopes at the top of Moel y Gaer we started slowly passing a few of the fast starters. At last, I felt like I had some strength in my legs and enjoyed the soft peat of the steep descent to Nant y Ne. Kept it going quite well up the valley, although I was well behind the leading trio by now, and felt reasonably comfortable in the gully before maintaining my place on the long, flat-out descent.

Ras y Berwyn

Race: Ras y Berwyn (13m/3500ft/AL)
Time/Position: 1:59:47 (11th from 98 [3rd V40])
The second race of this year's Welsh Championships and, after a disastrous performance at Mynydd Troed, it was important to at least get round this long course reasonably efficiently. All this was secondary to the fact that I was really looking forward to the race, as this area is notorious for its access problems, with this the first ever event taking in these very runnable peaks. Peter had done a great job of organisation. Indeed, we had reccied it with him in March. Since then, however, significant changes had been made to the route to assist nesting birds. So it was that we started from Llandrillo then headed up the delightfully runnable tracks south below Cefn Pen Lletty to eventually enter the open hillside and the inevitable, immediate bog: including two waist deep river crossings. Weeks of rain rendered the subsequent long climb via Cwm Tywyll to the top of Cadair Berwyn an energy sapping trudge. I got caught by Simon E and three others as I crested the summit, now sunny, in 52m. This helped as I tried to stick with the group for the superb running south along the ridge towards the climb up Moel Sych. The ridge then curves east, the highlight of the event, with great views down into the wild cwm containing Llyn Lluncaws. Good descending, though awkward, down to the lake before a tough climb back up to ridge at Moel yr Ewig. I began to catch the group here, and went ahead during the awkward contouring east of the main Berwyn ridge. A tough climb up to CP5, surprised that the route didn't take in Tomle (as the reccie did), before enjoying the other big highlight of the old Ffordd y Saeson down to Bwlch Maen Gwynedd. I struggled a bit on the final climb up Cadair Bronwen but, to my surprise, made up some ground on the superb long descent over Moel Pearce. This gives exhilarating flat-out running down wet trenches, followed by streaming paths and finally the rough road from Moel Ty Uchaf back down to Llandrillo. I measured my length once, but no harm done, and gained one place to just dip inside two hours. A superb addition to the calendar.

Up the Beast fell race

Race: Up the Beast (4.5m/1500ft/AS)
Time/Position: 37:33 (6th from 74 [2nd V40])
An unmissable local event, always a pleasure, despite the fact that it is possibly the steepest fell race in North Wales for short sections (it's still dubbed a 'trail race' in certain places, amusingly enough). I thoroughly enjoyed the initial run through the woods, and the first steep scramble through the limestone crags that gives this race its 'character', but blew comprehensively on the final run back through the woods. Might have been tired after last week's activities in the Highlands, but can't really use that as an excuse - the main issue is that I'm losing time on all the descents at the moment. Simon E went past on Bryn Alyn, but I managed to stay with him until the descent of the Beast when he pulled away. I rather hoped I might catch him on the run-in, but instead I slowed to a crawl and was passed by another runner to end up 6th. I was three places down on last year, well over half a minute slower.

A'Chralaig

Peaks: A'Chralaig (1120m)
Area: Cluanie, Lochalsh
I had time for a very quick outing on our journey back home from Glenelg. This probably wasn't the ideal choice, as it was too close to the start of the long drive, but I thought the weather might be worse further south. Kate and the kids had a drink at the Cluanie Inn while I treated A'Chralaig as one big training blast. In this respect, at least, it was ideally suited: a big brute of a hill with an unrelenting steep climb from the road NE to gain the surprisingly long and enjoyable south ridge. I managed to run the vast majority of this, having enjoyed a rest day on Skye yesterday (apart from a walk with E up the lower summit of Sgurr na Coinnich above Kylerhea). Indeed, I really enjoyed the gentler running up the long ridge. I hadn't quite appreciated the sheer size of this hill, much higher than the South Glen Shiel ridge opposite, and took 40 minutes to reach the cairn from the road. Clag on top, sadly: I would have been better off waiting until further south for my outing after all. I'd promised Kate I'd be back at Cluanie in around an hour, so pelted flat out down the ridge - superbly exhilarating with the mist clearing and some sunshine peaking through, revealing the Inn way below, framed in front of Thursday's peaks. The entire descent gave wonderful downhill running and I was back at the pub about 25m after leaving the summit. A long drive home to flood-hit Wales followed, sorry to be leaving after another tremendous Highland week of perfect weather.

South Glen Shiel ridge

Peaks: Creag a'Mhaim (947m), Druim Shionnach (987m), Aonach air Chrith (1021m), Maol Chinn Dearg (981m), Sgurr Coire na Feinne (902m), Sgurr an Doire Leathain (1010m), Sgurr an Lochain (1004m)
Area: Glen Shiel, Lochalsh
After a rest yesterday, pottering around the brochs and coastline of Glenelg, another early start this morning saw me preparing to dash along the South Glen Shiel Ridge. This was the scene of my abortive traverse on Sunday, when I simply ran out of time. This morning, however, I was a bit more relaxed, having arranged to meet the family at the Cluanie Inn for lunch. Contrary to the forecast, the weather had remained superb and, even better, a cloud inversion seemed on the cards as I set off from Cluanie in amazing conditions of mist and sunshine. The old road to Tomtoun is very runnable, albeit 6k or more in length, and I set off at a brisk jog watching tendrils of mist drape A'Chralaig and the other big peaks north of Loch Cluanie. I entered the mist at the road's highpoint, and viz dropped instantly to a matter of a few feet. This made identifying the correct path tricky, and I wasted some time ensuring I was on the right route before continuing to run upwards in a bid to pop out of the mist. I did so around the 500m mark. So began an enchanting few hours as the valley cloud and light wisps of higher mist formed a beautiful foreground to the distant views down to Ben Nevis. The nearby peaks of Spidean Malaich and Gleouraich were even more photogenic, however. A thick sea of cloud remained in all the valleys as I crested the summit of Creag a'Mhaim in 75m from the road. Good running then led to an unexpected narrowing of the ridge up to Druim Shoinnach - a fine ascent with nice views of the lochans in the cwm south. Some mist on the summit, which melted away as I continued down the grassy ridge towards the day's highpoint at Aonach air Chrith. Stunning clarity of light now: the cloud inversion still present, deep blue sky above, this most famous of ridge traverses completely to myself. Indeed, I was perhaps the only person witnessing the inversion at this hour of the day? I set a reasonable pace, jogging the descents and flat sections, but had no real need to rush: just as well, given these very special conditions. The peaks along this ridge do not have a strong individual identity but the route is tremendously enjoyable. Some surprisingly narrow and rocky sections at times, and great views over to Loch Quioch and back across to the Five Sisters. I took in the smaller summit of Sgurr Coire na Feinne before ploughing on to the much higher Sgurr an Doire Leathain. Great views across to Sgurr an Lochain, easily the most distinctive peak on the ridge, towards which I now made my way. After a quick bite on the summit, I picked out the most comfortable way down to Glen Shiel (having done the remainder of the ridge last Sunday). I went down the very well defined, steep east ridge, which levels off lower down to a moraine-like grassy ridge just below the lake. A nice little corrie. I then contoured around boggy ground to pick up some deer tracks across the very steep spur coming down from Doire Leathain. All this was saving me a mile or two of road running! From here, it was a relatively simple matter to pick my way down to the road through the lower conifers, emerging east of the Lapain car park. Superb crystal clear views of the Five Sisters as all clouds melted away, yet again. The run back to Cluanie along the road was not too bad, and I made it back before midday.

Five Sisters of Kintail

Peaks: Sgurr na Ciste Dubh (1027), Sgurr na Carnach (1002), Sgurr Fhuaran (1067), Sgurr nan Saighead (929), Beinn Bhuidhe (869)
Area: Glen Shiel, Lochalsh
The forecast had long been predicting a change in the weather for this afternoon. I wasn't too bothered, having already enjoyed three superb outings, but thought I'd make an early start in advance of the supposedly incoming front. Furthermore, I didn't want to compromise the family holiday, so left very early in low temperatures (-1C!). Began ploughing up the slopes to the Bealach na Lapain before 5am, although in my haste took a path too far left that had obviously been beaten out by munro baggers as it quickly contoured left to finally gain the ridge at the col between Spainteach and Sgurr na Ciste Dubh. This was annoying, as I wanted to do the full ridge, but as I emerged at the small col into the sunshine all was forgiven. Frost decorated the ridge, and the low sun provided wonderful views in all directions. A light morning mist boiled up from Glen Affric, lending a magical atmosphere to the traverse. Tendrils of mist lapped up the ridge to the north, while views south to the Saddle and Sgritheall remained crystal clear. I scampered up to the fine rocky summit of Ciste Dubh (1hr from road) to enjoy the show with a breakfast banana. Onward prospects were superb, as this is undoubtedly one of the finest ridges in the UK. Sgurr Fhuaran, in particular, is a cracking, dominant peak. Some short scrambly sections down to the pronounced col below Sgurr na Carnach, which gives a short but steep ascent and is another fine viewpoint and pronounced individual summit. The light mist was still lending a magical quality to the traverse as I embarked on the long mild scramble to the top of Fhuaran, still only just after 6am with the entire ridge to myself. I took every rock step as direct as possible to maximise enjoyment, but it was necessary to seek out difficulties. As the highest peak on the ridge, so obvious from the Mam Ratagan pass, Fhuaran is a marvellous viewpoint, some say the best in Scotland. For me, the view down Loch Duich towards the Cuillin was most notable, but light mist showed off the remote Affric peaks to perfection. Distant views to Ben Nevis and Liathach also impressed. I could have descended from here, but opted to prolongue the traverse by descending the fine, steep ridge and sticking to the crest to give some unexpected but good scrambling up Sgurr nan Saighead - which has a distinctive outline, throwing down a series of impressive ribs on the Affric side. Looked like some good winter gullies hereabouts. From Saighead I continued over the subsidiary peak of Beinn Bhuidhe. This took me even further down Glen Shiel but I was enjoying the ridge so much I didn't want it to end. I opted to take the ridiculously steep direct descent direct to Glen Shiel from here. It was indeed direct, but a completely trackless blend of tussocks and heather - an unpleasant echo of 'time-saving' navigation tactics on mountain marathons. Once in the glen I forded the river and hopped over the fence to the road. Cue a very long run back along the road to my car - at least 10k, maybe more. I was back at the cottage in Glenelg before 10.30am, in time for brunch.

Beinn Sgritheall

Peaks: Beinn Sgritheall (974)
Area: Glenelg, Lochalsh
After rockpooling on the shores of Loch Hourn yesterday, it was an easy decision to drive back to magical Arnisdale for a family ascent of this distinctive and notoriously steep peak. I doubted whether we would all make the top, but thought the bealach would make a satisfactory viewpoint while I ran up the main peak and later took the keener E up the smaller Corbett. The weather was perfect again as we set off from this most tranquil of hamlets to weave up towards the very steep spur that leads up the bealach. Loch Hourn twinkling below: the views opening out over Knoydart, allowing me to relive my memorable trip there back in 1998, based around Sourlies bothy. The children did not enjoy the steep ascent, but it levels off half-way up to a contouring path that leads into a perfect little hidden gorge. A perfect family lunch/play spot, so I continued upwards giving myself an hour to get back. Steep striding led to boggier ground near the pass, then even steeper scree slopes - unrelenting - to the lower subsidiary summit. Superb running along the easy ridge, with fabulous views of sea, loch and mountain down to Loch Hourn, over to Ladhar Bheinn, Sgurr na Ciche and the rest of Knoydart, and down to the mysterious northern corries of Sgritheall. Surely one of the best views in Scotland, which gets even better from the true summit: with the Cuillin, Rum, Eigg and Torridon dominant. Sadly, I had to tear myself away and pelted down the screes, tearing my innov-8s to shreds in the process. Steep running down the turfy sections led back to the gorge and a quick lunch before we all walked down the slopes to Arnisdale and a memorable coffee break at the eccentric Tea Shack in Corran. The views over Knoydart, and back up to Sgritheall, were even better from Corran as all the cloud gradually melted away.

The Saddle to Creag nan Damh

Peaks: The Saddle (1010/3314), Sgurr na Sgine (944/3098), Sgurr a'Bhac Chaolais (885), Creag nan Damh (918)
Area: Glen Shiel, Scotland
After arriving in Glenelg yesterday afternoon, we relaxed by the shores of Loch Hourn in more stunning weather this morning, before I headed off for a short outing above Glen Shiel in the afternoon. Kate dropped me off in the valley, giving me just under four hours to do as much as I could. My plan was to head up the Saddle via the superb-looking Forcan ridge, and then try to get as far as possible along the South Glen Shiel ridge. This went well initially, as the route takes a very runnable stalker's path to the col between Meallan Odhar and Biod an Fhithich. The col gives tremendous views towards the NE ridges and cwms of the Saddle. But my plans for a quick ascent began to be altered as I started the scrambling, because the Forcan ridge was both better and longer than I'd expected, and it seemed inappropriate to rush. Initial slabs lead to a great view and a horizontal ridge, before more sustained scrambling up a steeper section gain the top of Sgurr nan Forcan and a cracking, much photographed onward view. The narrow ridge ends in a scrambling descent, all highly enjoyable, before a sharp crest gains the final easier rocks to the summit. Great views of Glenelg, the Cuillin, the Five Sisters and the South Glen Shiel ridge. The weather again just became clearer and sunnier as I jogged down the easy broad gully towards the Bealach Coire Mhalagain. A sharp pull from here gains the end of the ridge of Faochag ('the whelk': conspicuous and highly photogenic from Glen Shiel). A surprisingly tough extra ascent leads south to more remote territory, eventually gaining the twin summits of Sgurr na Sgine. This is another fine hill, hidden from Glen Shiel, with a craggy southern face. These crags made my onward route problematic, as a long traverse is then required to gain awkward bouldery terrain leading east below the south face of Sgine to a bealach above Coire Toite. An awful, but unavoidable, pull up pathless, rough terrain gains the flat top of Sgurr a'Bhac Chaolais. Surprisingly steep and draining, but good running down the easier eastern ridge finally gains Bealach Duibh Leac and the start of the South Glen Shiel ridge proper. I was running out of time by now, however, so kept a decent pace going for the featureless slopes of Creag nan Damh which mercifully gave way to some mild scrambling near the top. As I descended towards Sgurr Beag I decided to play it safe and contacted Kate to arrange a meeting at the Battle Site, descending into the remote Am Fraioch Coire. This is a superb, wild spot high above Glen Shiel: tremendous views to the Five Sisters. Hot sunshine now as I descended towards the waterfall, feeling uneasy about the onward route. Sure enough, a line of crags meant I had to traverse up the ridge to the west before fashioning an intricate and unpleasant downward route through bands of wet slabs and mossy gullies to gain the sunlit, much gentler lower coire and a delightful path. I pelted down here to arrive at the meeting place bang on time.

Aonach Eagach

Peaks: Am Bodach (940/3085), Meall Dearg (953/3126), Stob Coire Leith (939/3080), Sgorr nam Fiannaidh (967/3172)
Area: Glencoe, Scotland
En route to our holiday cottage in Glenelg, and wonderful weather meant there was a good opportunity to traverse this most famous of ridges while the family had lunch at the Clachaig. After staying near Glasgow, Kate dropped me off in Glencoe at the start of the route up Am Bodach. This is too steep to be properly runnable, but I was well rested and enjoyed the sustained effort - gaining height very rapidly to reach the summit of Am Bodach in 49 minutes from the road. Superb views across to Bidean, over to the Ben and the Mamores and beyond. The downclimb from Am Bodach to the col gives sustained and enjoyable scrambling on huge holds. Good running along the broader ridge to the summit of Meall Dearg followed. I'd now caught the early starters and had to apologise for passing so many on the narrow ridge - at least 40 or 50 people. My time was limited, however, so it had to be done! The scrambling was not as continuous as I'd expected, but still excellent - particularly the initial downclimb from Meall Dearg to a good chimney which gains an easy section before the excellent pinnacles, one or two of which are exposed in places but always with huge holds. The weather just got better as the day went on - a real shame I couldn't rest a while to properly absorb the view and enjoy the warm sunshine: rushing seemed somewhat inappropriate in superb weather like this, but there is a balance to be struck on family holidays. The final pinnacle gives exposed scrambling up the right-hand side and, in general, the ridge feels much less escapeable than, say, An Teallach: the pinnacles feel like mini-Alpine style gendarmes rather than optional entertainment. Good running up the easy slopes to Stob Coire Leith then over to Fiannaidh in 1:50 from the road (partly due to hold-ups on the ridge). Terrific views over Loch Leven to Garbh Beinn and over to Cruachan, Mull and Knoydart. Ran flat-out down the very steep scree slopes direct to Loch Achtriochan, just over 20 minutes to the road - 2:19 road-to-road for the full traverse.

Idwal climbing

Crag/Peak: Cwm Idwal/Cneifion/Clogwyn Du/Glyder Fawr
Routes: Heather Wall (VS 4b,4c:led p.2), Tennis Shoe p.3,4 (HS), Piton Route (VS 4c:sec), Pillar Chimney p.1 (led), Manx Wall (HS 4b,4b:led p.1)
Another classic Idwal enchainment up multiple routes in perfect weather: this was always going to be a real treat. The outing wasn't quite on the same scale as our last visit to the cwm in 2010, but involved a more concerted attempt to exploit the superb week of dry weather that we've had. Manx Wall, in particular, is a classic slow drying high mountain route that has been a target of mine for many years. We started, however, on Heather Wall - a mild VS on the dark East Wall of the Slabs. Even after all the dry weather, the start was still greasy, but the route was excellent - far better than I'd expected. Vic led a long (30m+) pitch up the centre of the obvious slab. This gives delightful 4b moves throughout, slabby and elegant, with some lovely sharp pockets. Superb compact rock throughout, not a hint of polish although perhaps slightly bold in places. I led the slightly harder top pitch which leaves the small belay on the apex of the slab to traverse left on good holds (I'd led this bit before, when we did East Wall Girdle). A little wall leads to a bulge and tiny thread. A couple of steep moves up gain good holds before a gentler groove curves round rightwards to a stance below Tennis Shoe. We then scrambled up the gentle middle pitches of Tennis Shoe on the left of the slabs before heading diagonally rightwards for Holly Tree Wall. We did this as one giant pitch, then had lunch, before Vic led the very fine Piton Route. I've done most of the other routes up here, but not this one. It gives an awkward early crux, in the mould of neighbouring Original Route, with tricky moves up a steep groove to gain more amenable climbing up a delightful rib. Very enjoyable relaxed mild VS climbing leads up the steep rib to the top: fun even with a big sac. We then traversed left, sustained scrambling, to gain obscure scrambling and easy climbing up the broken crags left of Senior's Ridge. This gives a fine upward route into Cwm Cneifion, which was drenched in sunshine. I've been up here maybe 10-15 times before, but had never seen it like this: more like Wadi Rum than a north-facing Welsh cwm. We drank from the stream then weaved up towards the intimidating Clogwyn Du. I've done a good few winter climbs up here, but had never done Manx Wall. It's a rare prize, as the crag is the ultimate slow-drying venue, feasible only in conditions like this. A steep slog gains Pillar Chimney, which then gives an enjoyable, highly atmospheric scramble for 100ft or so, up to a grassy slope below the chimney proper. It took some time to identify the line of Manx Wall, as there are several left-slanting lines of weakness. However, I tentatively set out along the series of small ledges and intermittent grooves than soon lead out over the crag. Bone dry throughout. I ended up merging the first three pitches of the original route, two tricky grooves being the highlight, until a very exposed traverse left along a footledge gains a thread belay in a great location. The top pitch is even more remarkable, up a slabby crack before a stomach traverse (very awkward to second with a big sac!) gains a small ledge. Good holds allow you to stand on the small exposed platform, reach up for enormous jugs, and use small footholds to gain a higher crack and easy climbing to the top. Exhilarating stuff, and certainly a route that packs a great deal of climbing into its 56 metres! Fabulous clarity of light as we topped out on the summit of Glyder Fawr, before jogging down (me taking the full sac) to gain the mild scrambling of Senior's Ridge followed by the more sustained scrambling in East Wall Gully. Perfect evening sunshine throughout. Summit of Glyder Fawr to my front door in a pleasingly efficient 2:15, after jogging the Idwal path and jumping straight into the car for the 65 mile journey.

Cwm Silyn climbing

Crag: Craig yr Ogof, Cwm Silyn
Routes: Kirkus's Route (VS 4c,4b,4c,4c: led p.1,3), Outside Edge (VD: led p.1,2,5)
The superb weather continues, so we headed up to one of the classic Welsh mountain crags - a long drive beyond Penygroes for me, which is a partial explanation for why I haven't climbed at Cwm Silyn for 20 years. Mick and I treated the walk-in as training, ploughing along the gentle initial path in glorious morning sunshine, wonderful views of the two lakes, before heading straight up the scree with heavy sacks. We went for the classic VS of Kirkus's Route, which takes a highly appealing direct line straight up the right-hand side of the huge slab of Craig yr Ogof. I led the first pitch, which goes up blocky shelves to gain a rightward-trending diagonal crack. This gives excellent climbing up small, sharp holds, and sets the tone for the rest of the route. The trickiest section, possibly the crux of the whole route, comes towards the top but it is all quite easy. Mick then led through an easier second pitch, through a wet groove to gain an easy staircase to the obvious break. My third pitch required a bit of route-finding: indeed the entire route is remarkably unpolished. I wandered around a bit, to ensure I was on the right line, before enjoying superbly delicate climbing up sharp pockets. Perfect friction for a couple of moves over small overlaps. The sun was now upon us, and we began to warm up, but it was never desperately hot. I followed Mick up the excellent final pitch, big holds up another staircase to a beautiful clean slab. Delicate climbing up this allows for a higher pull over an overlap. An excellent route, with gently sustained easy VS climbing all the way, perhaps the most purely enjoyable route of its type in Snowdonia. We descended the Great Stone Shoot with surprising ease, then climbed out up Outside Edge after lunch. I did this route with Tim 20 years ago: it is, of course, one of the great easy Welsh classics (perhaps the best VD in Wales). I merged the first two pitches into one giant 45m haul, and our big sacs failed to spoil the fun of the easy groove followed by the superb rising leftward traverse. Probably steeper than Kirkus's, but huge holds ease progress. Mick led a 10m pitch to Sunset ledge before merging the final two pitches to the top. So, we almost managed the route in two pitches! Sunset ledge is a superb place, especially in this weather, and it was nice to linger there, lying down in the sunshine, as Mick led through: great views down to the lakes and the coast. I clearly remember being deflated by the final two pitches of Outside Edge when I did it - this was (I now realise) because we actually finished up the vastly inferior Ordinary Route! So I'd never done the top of Outside Edge before - it gives more excellent climbing in a superb position up ribs near the arete then up a tricky groove to a final pull over a bulge. I led a final pitch up the easy ridge before we walked along to the summit of Craig Cwm Silyn then down the ridge past hundreds of swifts and house martins to join the main path much lower down.

Rhyl 5k

Race: Rhyl Suncentre 5k (North Wales 5k Championships)
Time/Position: 16:54 (6th from 93 [2nd V40])
As I was supposed to be abroad this week, I hadn't planned on doing this race. But the cancelled flight meant that it became an ideal opportunity for an evening speed session. Lovely tranquil summer evening, and a fine seaside race from the Suncentre out towards Prestatyn and the golf course. I've been struggling with another knee niggle, so thought this would be a good test in racing flats. I was therefore pleased and quite relieved to feel reasonably good, particularly as I haven't done intervals for a couple of months: no major problems from the knee, just a few aches. A slight headwind on the return leg meant the last couple of kilometres were slightly slower than the first three, but I felt relatively comfortable until having to dig in for the last 500m - mum's encouragement a great help at this point! I don't do many 5k's (the last one was in 2010), so this was a narrow PB by 5 seconds.

Clogwyn Cyrau climbing

Crag: Clogwyn Cyrau, Betws y Coed
Routes: Bombers Wall route one (HS 4b,4b:led p.1), Jingling Wall (HS 4b:sec), Central Route variant (VS 4b:led), Swing High (VS 4b:sec), Academy (HS 4b:led), The Groove (VD:sol), Sion (S:sol), Siencyn (S:led)
After a disastrous start to the week, a cancelled flight and an opportunity missed, a great weather forecast meant that at least there was a chance to salvage something. Some climbing was in order as a distraction from the disappointment, and it looked like the whole week would be dry and sunny. This trip to Betws was therefore merely an ideal relaxed aperitif as we waited for bigger targets on the high crags to dry out for later in the week. I ticked a good number of the Cyrau classics during my last visit here in 2009, but hadn't done Bombers Wall before so led up its steepish initial groove to gain easier climbing to a big flake. Mick led up through the steep but juggy groove. Mick then led the best route here, Jingling Wall, which I've done before: excellent sun-drenched climbing up the wide groove to a slab, then the final steep groove. Superb views across the valley to Siabod. After lunch I set off up Central Route and took a right-hand variation away from the seemingly unprotected moves on the left-hand version. Swing High is a nice route further right on Conwy buttress. It goes 10m up the fine Conwy Corner (done before) before breaking off across the left wall, a fun hand traverse, to gain the juggy arete. A pleasant finish up the edge, much easier, gains the top. My lead, Academy, was dirty and greasy low down, before a big thread eases the passage to moves right across a rib on superb pocketed rock - echoes of Chateaudouble earlier this month - before moving left to a steep and surprisingly committing finish over a bulge. A good route which needs more traffic. Finished off by playing around on the easy routes on the smaller crag further right.

La Trinite climbing

Crag: La Trinite, Monaco/Nice, France
Routes: Croustillant (f4:led), Formes Ancestrales (f4+:sec), Exces de Vitesse (f4:sec), Anticalcaire (f5:led), Cinq Froid C'est Dur (f5:sec), Besoins Naturels (f5+/6a:led), Echec aux Maths (f5:sec), Courte Tisana (f4:sec)
Expectations were low for this, our 'airport crag' day. With a flight at 5pm, our choices were inevitably limited to the smaller crags near Nice and, having scratched around on very polished routes in places like Colle Sur Loup in the past, we approached La Trinite expecting something similar. The location isn't promising, either, below the A8 although not too far from Eze and Monaco. In the event, we barely even realised that the motorway was above, and we even had views up towards the Maritime foothills. Best of all, though, even though this is a disused quarry the routes are remarkably good. Some very striking lines, with distinctive and varied characters and styles of climbing and a spread of grades. I kicked off with a lead of Croustillant, which reminded me of the F5 at Castle Inn, a juggy romp up a steep wall on lovely flowstone holds - little stalactites and sharp jugs. Seconded the route to its left, similar, before following Vic up the inferior Exces de Vitesse. I assume the 3 stars in the guidebook was a mistake, because this slabby route with sloping holds was more like something from Trevor Rocks. Things improved dramatically with Anticalcaire, my lead. This was a superb pitch, a mini-classic, which takes the obvious steep groove to an early crux through an overhang to gain a delightful narrow slab. This gives wonderful delicate climbing on small flowstone features and little holds, shuffling out to the arete at times. Vic then led the meaty crackline of Cinq Froid, one of the powerful fissures splitting the main face. This seemed a tad undergraded, and gave painful jamming and positive laybacking up a very rough, jagged crack. A tricky start led to massive jugs and a fun finish. I was feeling quite good, so upped the grade to lead the classic Besoins Naturels. This was a wonderfully satisfying way to finish the trip. It initially takes a thought-provoking but steady corner groove formed by the edge of the main face and the slab. Some good moves up to a ledge and rest. Then comes the final crack, totally different in character, snaking diagonally right across the face. This is sustained and excellent, generally positive holds, no obvious crux, just absorbing moves throughout. I was pleased to climb this 30m route quickly and cleanly, feeling reasonably strong at last. We finished with two shorter routes, as the sun came out for the first time since Monday just in time for our drive to the airport. Another great trip, despite the lowly grades of the routes - inevitable given the fact that I'd only had time for one day on rock since last summer.

Gros Roucas climbing

Crag: Gros Roucas, Chateaudouble, Provence
Routes: Histoire Sans Fin (f5+,5+:led p.2), Peu d'Elephant p.1 (f5:led), Botanicus (f5+:sec), Variante (f4+:sec), Ciel Sauvage p.1 (f5:sec)
This was a late start by our standards, not leaving Esterel until 9am after a rare croissant and coffee breakfast on the terrace. As we were both somewhat fatigued after yesterday, it seemed like a logical choice to go back to Chateaudouble, and specifically the crag we'd bushwacked into, then been rained off, on Sunday. The routes are all two pitch affairs, but are relatively gentle, and the guidebook descriptions sounded superb. We arrived at the crag after a steep walk-in, to find the anticipated ultra-tranquil ambience. Nobody was around, despite the bank holiday, and we climbed all day to the rush of the river far below. Vic led the first pitch of Histoire Sans Fin, a local classic at around HVS/5+. This opening pitch was very good, and an ideal start up an elegant, simple slab of hard, grey limestone to a tricky crux move into the obvious groove. However, it was merely the aperitif for the stupendous second pitch. Good fortune gave me the lead, and the ground dropped away immediately as I left the small belay on sharp holds. The route moves gradually left round a blunt rib to make its way up a central tower. The climbing is out of this world, just perfect in terms of position and moves. The wall is steepish, but the rock is stupendous rough grey limestone, sculpted into wonderful sharp pockets and incut holds. It steepens to a short crux up a wide groove just before the top. This pitch is given four stars and a very enthusiastic description in the local guidebook! I wouldn't begrudge a single one of them, as it was up there with the best pitches I've ever done. Vic had belayed me on his grigri, so couldn't ab off. We initially tried to walk down, inevitably flailing through awful impenetrable maquis within minutes. So after hacking around and shedding yet more blood, tearing yet more clothing, we made our way back to the top chain and abbed off to the middle belay, hauling my belay plate back each time. After pissaladiere and a 2 kilo slice of quiche, Vic doubted my ability to get off the ground on the next route, but fortunately the initial slab of Peu d'Elephant was gentle. It was also extraordinarily rough limestone, giving the impression of an elephant's hide, and felt rather like pulling up shards of glass. It led to the central ledge. Vic then embarked on the big lead of Botanicus, a 36m sustained pitch up the all-too-obvious chimney/groove in the centre of the crag. My quiche didn't affect me too much for the steep initial groove, which overhangs gently for 5m or so, until the route moves more easily right into the main giant groove. I took the left wall of the groove, which was either a cop-out or an elegant solution, depending on your perspective. It gave fine climbing, though, on small positive holds, up to the very steep crux sequence at the top. I probably took this a little too far left, but it gave a pulsating few minutes work: generally good side pulls and wide bridging to the chains. A sustained route at around UK E1. Got down on the stretch of the rope, then did another slabby variant with rope above, before leading the initial pitch of Ciel Sauvage and going some way up the steeper second. Again, this was all on painfully sharp, rough limestone, and it was with some relief for my fingertips that we called it a day.

Sainte Victoire climbing

Crag: Mont Sainte Victoire, Provence
Route: Grand Parcours (uD+/HVS 5b f5,5,5+,4+,2,3,2,4+,3,4,5+,5+,5,4:led p.1,3,5,6,8,10,12,14)
This route certainly lives up to its billing: a very 'big course' indeed, and one of the most famous mid-grade Provencal climbs. I have wanted to do it since Tim and I were rained off this fabulous crag 18 years ago, spending an afternoon sheltering in a bush gazing at this superb, huge line through the rain. This week, we had to choose our day carefully and did so, with today being the best forecast of the week, following an easy shakedown yesterday, and a working day sandwiched between a Sunday and a Bank Holiday (thereby ensuring we had the climb to ourselves). The weather was stunning, deep blue sky, warm rather than hot, as we walked in to the crag. The term 'crag' barely seems adequate to describe the 18km limestone wall of St Victoire, however! The Grand Parcours can be divided into four sections: an opening four pitches up the steep needle of Aiguille Bertine, then a broken, scrambly section which leads to a superb Alpine ridge. The obvious finale is provided by the soaring headwall of Le Signal. As I say, a beautifully elegant and compelling line which is very obvious from the A8 motorway, and grabbed me yet again as we drove to Ventoux last summer. I took the first pitch, which takes a delightful steep wall of limestone and looks hard from below. This is deceptive, however, as it is liberally furnished with hidden pockets and positive flakes which give lovely climbing. The problem, however, is that the entire wall is crisscrossed with different routes, most of which are single pitch. So following the true line of Grand Parcours is hard, initially, but also rewarding. I traversed left after 20m to gain a small ledge, then climbed delicately up superb pocketed rock to another large 'bucket' to belay in an uncomfortably cramped position. Vic then sought the easier rock left, soon gaining a simple, quite delicate slab which led to a big ledge and tree. We were now pulling away from the crag rats lower down, and my lead took the obvious steep crack past two reassuring trees. This was a good pitch, but harder than expected: the initial pull up was steep and polished, and the fixed gear notably only by its absence (one peg!). But we had a full rack, and I enjoyed the climbing up to a delightful stance overlooking Sainte Baume, heavy with the scent of Provencal herbs. Vic's pitch, the fourth, follows a slanting series of grooves diagonally left to gain some loose and easier shelves. Lovely sundrenched climbing to the tiny col at the top of the Aiguille Bertine and the end of the first section. I led a very easy long pitch, mainly walking, to the foot of the next short slabby wall, then continued up the left of this - a scrambly traverse gains a pleasant slab at around V Diff - until Vic led another scrambly pitch to gain the next major break, taken by the descent of Trace Noire. From this point, the route really unfolds: with the Signal headwall soaring intimidatingly above the ridge. First, the ridge must be gained, so I led a nice pitch up a series of enjoyable flake cracks to traverse right below the obvious overhang and belay in a tiny windgap at the start of the ridge. The wind whistled through the gap, and necessitated a fleece. Vic then led a long (70m) pitch up the superb Alpine ridge, very enjoyable, and I followed up with another long pitch which was even better, taking the obvious 15m steeper gendarme on the ridge, lovely climbing with a rare peg, to gain more knife-edged but easy climbing to the vegetated gap below the headwall. We were now out of the wind, and had a short break - relishing the views, the herbs and the tranquility - as we contemplated the onward route up the headwall. This looks even steeper from below than it looks from the motorway, but is a compelling objective. Vic led the long initial crackline, and I followed. The problem was that the sack was now becoming a real problem. It weighed several kilos with all the water, shoes and clothes, and the nature of this pitch made life awkward for me. The crack went easily up to a steep and sustained 20m section where it widened. With the big sack this became a brutal, physical struggle, very hard to get the weight off my arms with the sack pushing me out of the crack. Good characterful climbing though, with sharp holds, interesting bridging and jamming. Vic had a tiny hanging stance, and I ditched the sac with relief. The problem now was that I had the crux 5c+ pitch and was drained of energy after carrying the sac up the steep crack. Fortunately, the crux was short, up the steep left-hand crack splitting the final nose. Several old ring pegs reduced some of the stress, and I had to rest a number of times. One nut placement, to back up the old pegs, was awkward and semi-blind, taking up more of my dwindling energy. Difficult thrutchy moves finally gained a tree and easier climbing to a bigger ledge in a superb position high on the crag. The route kept coming, however, with a very steep start to the next pitch which gave Vic a few problems. I was dreading following with the big sac, as it required a very steep pull up a series of flakes before traversing left to gain an easier gully system, but in the event I'd regained some strength at the stance and managed the steep sequence reasonably well. The long series of grooves was superb, snaking left over the face to gain a tree and belay. This gave me the final pitch, our 14th, and exhilerating romp rightwards over to gain a superbly exposed rib hanging above the headwall. Easy climbing up this gained a couple of bolts and broken grooves to the summit ridge festooned with Alpine flowers and herbs. A wonderful few minutes of relaxation and recuperation, gazing out at the fantastic crystal clear views to the Rhone, the sea, Camargue, Ventoux and Maritime Alps. The day wasn't over, however, as we had to traverse the lovely ridge of St Victoire towards the Croix de Provence. I'd climbed the peak at the eastern end of the ridge, Pic de Mouches, ten years ago so it was nice to be up here again. The ridge leads to the cave of the Tunnel de Garagai, and this kicks off an intriguing and wonderful descent, which just tops the day off. Good, polished scrambling through the huge caves leads to an intricate series of grooves and shelves to gain a scree funnel. The route continues in this vein, intricate and fascinating scrambling through hostile terrain. It is basically a gradually descending traverse, the only way to negotiate the series of crags the runs along the entire length of the face. It also gives superb views of the ridge and headwall of our route in perfect evening sunshine. A long, rewarding, memorable day - more than 7 hours car to car. Pizza and beer on the terrace was much appreciated that evening.

Chateaudouble/Dramont climbing

Crag: Rebouillon, Chateaudouble, Provence
Routes: Rebouillon de Culture (f5:led), Prise d'Info (f5:sec), Fa, Si, la Grimper (f5:led), Mais t'es Haut (f5+:sec), Fort Braillard (f5:sec)
Crag: Cap Dramont, Esterel, Provence
Routes: L'Orange (f6a:led), Razzia sur la Schnouffe (f6a:sec), Feu Interdit (f6a:sec)
It looked like the start of our fourth consecutive May climbing trip to Provence would be thwarted by bad weather as we sat listening to thundery rain in the early morning. By 9ish, the sky was looking a little brighter so we headed off to Chateaudouble - the longer drive giving the crags time to dry, we hoped. We'd been very impressed by the large Marinouns crag in this valley last year, so decided to start off with the easy routes lower down the valley this year (mindful of a potentially huge day tomorrow). The gorge is now barred to traffic, with climbers parking near the barrier: the effect is to increase the tranquility and attractiveness of an already lovely setting. After a short walk-in, I kicked off with an ideal relaxed lead of a pleasant f5, which takes a steepish wall to a delicate finish. Vic then led a route up the obvious cracks/groove to the right, at a similar grade: trending left across the wall. Another slabby f5 lead for me culminated in a very nice orange slab: quite delicate and thought-provoking. Vic then led the main classic of this smaller crag: Mais t'es Haut, an excellent 28m pitch with takes a steep wall of grey limestone to a crux bulge. This gains a gap in a long overlap. A splendid pull through this on sharp holds gains a superb final groove. Perfect jugs and bridging make this comfortable until it really steepens just before the top: but huge holds sustain the standard. Great pitch, followed up by the variant start of Fort Braillard to its left which gives slabby climbing on flat holds. The weather was beginning to threaten, so we had a quick lunch (the now traditional pissaladiere) before heading up to the bigger and more isolated crag of Gros Roucas. It began to rain as we walked in, prospects not looking good, but worse was to come as we failed to read the guidebook and ploughed blindly into the maquis. Cue a hellish half hour of muddy flailing, ripped clothes, cuts and bruises as we tried to locate the crag in thick vegetation. We finally lost touch with each other, just as the rain got worse and a tremendous thunderstorm erupted. I eventually retraced my steps and the heavens really opened: torrential rain, the path flowing with water. We jumped into the car, soaking wet, and drove towards the coast. Within 5k, at Draguignan, it was dry! So we drove round to Cap Dramont for a couple more routes before dinner. As usual, once we were off the limestone and on to the rhyolite of Esterel, we could immediately lead a grade harder, so I kicked off with L'Orange, a short route on the lower, pathside 'tier' of Dramont. This goes gently up to a short, steep and intense crux sequence. Good sharp holds, and quite powerful at the top, as are the two similar routes to the left (Razzia) and right (Feu Interdit).

Llangynhafal Loop

Race: Llangynhafal Loop (4.75m/1750ft) 
Time/Position: 44:48 (5th from 72 [3rd V40])
With our flights to Nice leaving Liverpool later in the afternoon, this was perhaps a little ambitious in terms of scheduling. But Vic and I thought we should be able to squeeze it in, and at least we were well motivated to get a move on! A fairly relaxed start saw a group of five or so pull away at the front, but Jez soon built an unassailable lead leaving the rest of us to fight it out for second. I kept a reasonable pace going on the always deceptive climb up Nant y Ne to the gully: it always looks gentle, but never feels it. I did my usual striding on the gully, no running, and got the top of Famau in third. But it was all very close and I was losing ground with every descent. Felt reasonably sharp along the ridge but never sensed that I was pulling away from those behind. After losing quite a bit of ground to fast descenders, I had a good final climb and our group of chasers more or less reassembled as we crested the final spur. It was then a downhill sprint, flat-out, for second: a race I inevitably lost as quicker descenders thundered past on the steep slopes back to the finish. Just over 12 seconds separated 2nd and 5th. Vic and I then ran down to the car and drove to the airport to begin our annual Provencal climbing holiday.

Mynydd Troed fell race

Race: Mynydd Troed fell race, shortened route (7k/550m)
Time/Position: 1:02:54 (38th from 80)
A disastrous start to this year's Welsh fell running championships. My decision to do the 10 mile champs yesterday initially seemed vindicated when our group of North Walian runners arrived in Pengenffordd near Talgarth in gale-force winds and driving rain. Several trees had blown down and the paths were pouring with mud and water. As I'd gambled, the race was shortened, and I hoped this would suit my tired legs. The initial climb up the northerly ridge of Troed felt anything but suitable and was characterised by a ferocious tail wind, which sometimes helped as it blew us upwards, but sometimes came from the side - knocking runners down like skittles and reminding me of the Borrowdale OMM, last year's Carneddau race and numerous other similar outings! I sought the shelter of the lee slopes and crawled up on hands and knees in places: torrential rain throughout, me in tried and tested full battle gear of thermals and waterproofs. The splendid well-defined ridge wasn't as bad, exhilarating rather than desperate, and I began to pick up a few places then took six runners on a superb, if slippy, descent to Cwm Sorgwm. Managed a complete somersault just before the ground levelled off. Then, disaster struck! On emerging at the road, I made the worst error I've ever made on a fell race and stupidly followed the tape of the original route all the way to the farm at Blaenau Draw, instead of just heading up the level road to the right. This lost me several minutes and completely ruined any chance I had, so I just plodded miserably back to retrace my steps to the road and tried to keep a reasonable pace going past several blown-over trees until the very steep second ascent of Mynydd Troed back up the SW slopes to the main summit. I began to tire on this, and lost even more ground as my shattered legs began to protest at what I've put them through this last week. The final descent was always going to be 'interesting' and so it proved as we got a right old battering descending into the teeth of the gale: my waterproofs acting as impromptu parapentes, blowing me back up the slope. More drama was to come, as John returned to the finish with serious hypothermia.

Wrexham 10 mile

Race: Wrexham 10 mile (North Wales Championships)
Time/Position: 58:27 (11th from 116 [2nd V40])
Found myself on the horns of a dilemma before this race. Last Sunday's marathon was still in my legs, as was Wednesday's ferocious Border League climax, and I'd done the full Moel Famau run last night (in superb clarity of rain-washed light, with views of the Lakes and the Isle of Man). More to the point, the first race in the Welsh fell running championships was scheduled for tomorrow near Brecon. But, after a family trip to Chester I took one look at the appalling weather forecast and decided I'd risk this race first. My twisted logic went something like this: it looked like Sunday's race would be either shortened or just a navigation-heavy plod in 'survival' mode, so what harm could a 10 mile race on the roads the day before do? I think it was the right decision. I felt surprisingly comfortable throughout the race, started at 5:50 pace and got into a perfect little group of 4, as we took turns to bear the brunt of the headwind which was distressingly strong in places. It's been a few years since I've done this race, or indeed any 10m race, and this reminded me of what a nice distance it is, the ideal combination of 'speed' (modest in my case) and endurance (ditto). It's not the most scenic of courses, and it had been changed a bit this year, but we kept a steady pace through 5m (28:45), then increased it a bit until the wind picked up at the turn in mile 9. This cost me sub-58, as we all struggled to gain the more sheltered running which led to the finish, losing a bit of time. As always, my lack of finishing kick meant the two lads in my little group pulled away just before the end. Ended up with four prizes later on: 2nd V40 in the Championships, 1st V40 in the open race (although I was actually second), with Buckley winning 1st Veteran team and 2nd team overall. Cue a desperate attempt to recover in time for tomorrow's fell race.

Deeside border league

Race:Deeside 4m+ (Border League race 7) 
Time/Position: 23:57 (22nd from 271 [3rd V40])
This was not a particularly pleasant experience. Wet, cold and miserable as we jogged across the Dee to the windswept start. Although I felt OK during the warm up, I knew that this was going to be the archetypal 'big ask' three days after the marathon. That said, I'd done exactly the same thing two years ago (ie. this race 3 days after London) and finished 20th so there were some grounds for optimism. And it all had to be done, as it was the final race of a long season and I had to stay within ten places of another Vet to retain my second place, so set off close to him. He upped his speed after a slowish start, so I did too, then foolishly went past him. Cue a classic trip into the red zone as I blew well before the two mile mark. That was that, I thought, resigned to third place, helpless and in oxygen debt as a dozen runners stormed past me. But, to my great surprise, I managed to recover my breathing and pick up the pace again. It remained a struggle in heavy rain, but I gradually clawed my way back to pass several runners and finish within two places of the other vet and therefore retain second place in my category (and 2nd Vet overall, 107pts) at the enjoyable prize-giving later that evening.

London Marathon

Race: London Marathon
Time/Position: 2:59:07 (1112 from 38000)
This was an opportunity missed, in the sense that conditions were good for decent times - reasonably cool but sunny, with a slightly annoying headwind in places. But having done just two 17-18m road runs in training, I knew that there was no way I could get round in any sort of shape unless I started very slowly. A PB was never on the cards today, let alone the 2:36 that my recent 10k/half marathon times optimistically predicted! I had some endurance in my legs from recent long hill runs and the Excalibur marathon three weeks ago, and that all helped, but in general I just plodded round the first half in 1:28. I then kept to the same gentle pace (four of my 5k splits were exactly 21:25, and two others were within 10 seconds of this) throughout, just concentrating on dipping under 3 hours for the first time since Edinburgh in 2008. This was my 15th marathon, and 5th London, and the atmosphere was, as ever, absolutely electrifying. As with 2010, it was just really nice to feel comfortable enough to absorb it all - and I particularly enjoyed Bermondsey (family support), Tower Bridge and Canary Wharf (ditto).

Carneddau hillwalk

Peaks: Foel Dduarth
Area: Carneddau
Fired with enthusiasm after her conquest of Tal y Fan, E was keen for another trip. After doing radio in Bangor, it was a simple matter to incorporate this walk into our journey home. After parking at the Aber Falls site, M unsurprisingly found the steep road tiresome! We skirted Foel Dduarth to the north enjoying superb sea views. The clarity of light was magnificent, with perfect views to the Isle of Man. This is a steep, short ascent - reminding me of the brutal start to day two of the Rab Mountain Marathon last September, which climbed straight up the front of this hill. The pace was gentler this time, and we relaxed on the summit before descending to the col and down into Cwm Anafon to complete a little loop.

Holyhead climbing

Crag: Penmaen Head, Colwyn Bay
Routes: Tan y Lan Kids (f5:led), Big up the Lizard (f5+:sec)
Crag: Holyhead Mountain, Anglesey
Routes: Pleasant Surprise (HS 4c:led), Teaser (VS 4c:sec), Laceration (VS 5a:sec), Candlestick (HS 4b:led), Tension (VS 4b:led), Black and Tan (VS 4c:sec)
First time on rock since Great Slab on Cloggy over six months ago. As such, this was an ideal shakedown in preparation for our imminent Provence trip, but it started badly in freezing weather at Penmaen Head. We descended to the crag to find an icy northerly blowing directly in to the sunless west face. I led the easy f5 up the juggy flowstone on numb hands before seconding the good f5+ to the left, hands now feeling like useless stumps which is not ideal on fingery limestone, then giving up after the inevitable hot flushes. We retreated to the car then commenced a lengthy detour to Holyhead in search of warmer rock. A heavy shower drenched the town as we arrived, but by the time we'd got to the crag we'd emerged from the other side of it. Very fortunate indeed. Holyhead Mountain is the perfect shakedown venue after a long break from climbing: characterised by well protected routes which often feel like soft touches. We finally got out of the biting wind by heading to the amphitheatre, where I kicked proceedings off with a lead of Pleasant Surprise, a nice route taking a slab and easy crack to a steeper short crux on positive holds. Delightful to be back on sun-drenched rock after half a year away. Vic led the obvious corner line of Teaser, which gives nice climbing on fine jams but is sadly very short. Some spits of rain but generally sunny and warm out of the wind. Laceration has a short and quite fingery crux but continued the simple theme of all the routes in this amphitheatre - another easy slab to a steepening crack. We then moved round to the left-hand buttress, with great sea views. By now, more crystal clear air rendered everything pin sharp. Cold, mind, for my route Candlestick, which took a sunless groove gained by an awkward steep entry move. The groove gave delightful HS climbing again, with abundant gear and nice little bridging moves to a steeper section moving left into the sun at the top. Nice climb at the grade. We finished the day with the two classic VS's on the bigger face further right. My lead, Tension, began with an easy crack which leads to a thread. The continuation crack then gets quite steep with an initially intimidating move left to gain the upper face. It is all as safe as houses, though, and you just know there are going to be huge holds whenever you pull up. Excellent moves gain the top of the crack, then easier but still steep climbing to the top. A splendid pitch. Vic then led Black and Tan, a fine companion route. It is slightly harder and not quite as good, but still gives great climbing as it takes the very obvious traverse line right below the large roof after sharing the initial crack with Tension. Good positive holds under the roof lead to a short technical section to pull out of the crack at the end of the roof. It was a bit frustrating to have missed all the fine rock climbing weather in March due to other commitments, but this was a pleasant consolation and a nice way to start the season.