Crag: Trewavas Head, Cornwall
Routes: Joy (S 4a:sol/sh), Mascara (VS 4c:sh), Mouseproof (S:sol), Sancho (VD:sol/sh)
I have only had one proper climbing trip to Cornwall, and that was way back in 1995 when Tim and I ticked numerous classics on the most famous crags of Bosigran, Chair Ladder, Land's End and Sennen. As a result, my knowledge is patchy and there are huge gaps and hundreds of crags that I haven't even visited. In the case of Trewavas Head, I'd never even heard of it. But, given that I was regrettably alone and limited to single pitch accessible venues, it was absolutely ideal. No more than 25 minutes from Coverack by car early in the morning, but with an entirely different atmosphere, more like North Cornwall: a granite crag above the sea. It's not a standard sea cliff though, as it is easy to get to: just a mile or so of pleasant walking along the coast path from the beautiful cove at Rinsey. It took a while to get my bearings, as I had no guidebook, but I soon worked out the line taken by Joy, even from a vague description. I did it partially on a loose shunt, as it has a distinct crux a third of the way up, involving a pull round a mildly overhanging block to gain delightful simple cracks leading to the top. A lovely route on perfect granite. Slightly wet lower down after recent rain. Mascara is a very similar line immediately left, almost Joy's mirror image, but two grades harder and considerably better. It also goes easily up to an obvious crux. This time, awkward moves out right on small holds lead to a few steep pulls in a good position (awkward on the shunt). The climbing then gets easier but stays interesting until a steep and rounded finish. Excellent route. Mouseproof took a juggy wall then a slabby arete much further left, while Sancho was an easier route up a left-slanting crack on good holds. All these routes were on perfect rough granite, poised above the sea but a friendly venue ideal in the circumstances. I would have liked to stay longer but wanted to be back by 10am for a trip to the Harbour Lights cafe, so ran back along the coast path to Rinsey.
Tuesday, August 11, 2015
Monday, August 10, 2015
Coverack climbing
Crag: The Grove, Cornwall
Routes: The Indian Queen (HS 4b+:sh), Big Chief (HS 4b:sh)
Despite myself, I returned to the Grove the evening after my first visit to do the other two routes. Needless to say, M declined to return after a superb day of boarding at Poldubh, so I jogged from Coverack. The crag is so small (in breadth, not just height) that these three routes are the only possibilities. Having said all that, the arete of Big Chief was actually a nice climb. It was replete with green lichen, inevitably, but gives a series of good moves up an obvious 10m arete line. The route to its left fills the gap and seemed a tad undergraded. A steep start up a fine flake crack leads to moves along the flake to the right than a steep juggy finish. Looked like this route had been recently cleaned: might just warrant VS. I doubt these routes get more than a couple of ascents a year: Bosigran is a little more appealing!
Routes: The Indian Queen (HS 4b+:sh), Big Chief (HS 4b:sh)
Despite myself, I returned to the Grove the evening after my first visit to do the other two routes. Needless to say, M declined to return after a superb day of boarding at Poldubh, so I jogged from Coverack. The crag is so small (in breadth, not just height) that these three routes are the only possibilities. Having said all that, the arete of Big Chief was actually a nice climb. It was replete with green lichen, inevitably, but gives a series of good moves up an obvious 10m arete line. The route to its left fills the gap and seemed a tad undergraded. A steep start up a fine flake crack leads to moves along the flake to the right than a steep juggy finish. Looked like this route had been recently cleaned: might just warrant VS. I doubt these routes get more than a couple of ascents a year: Bosigran is a little more appealing!
Sunday, August 09, 2015
Coverack climbing
Crag: The Grove, Cornwall
Routes: South Face (S 4a:led)
Very possibly the most obscure crag in Cornwall! This is the obvious 10 metre high 'boulder' visible from Coverack and looked like it might provide a nice introduction to trad for M. It didn't, partly because it was a mile away and he doesn't like walking, but mainly because of the absurd bushwhacking approach through brambles and ferns. It goes without saying that nobody would choose to visit this on a Cornish climbing holiday, but it was short and near our cottage. A nice coastal walk leads to a wall then that dreadful approach. We finally reached the crag and I led up the obvious ramp line (vegetated) which leads to a few nice clean (quite steep) moves up to a thread belay. M followed competently, getting all my gear out, although he dynoed for the top jug in best Stallone/Cliffhanger style! Curiosity satisfied, we went back for tea. Hard to imagine a less alluring climbing experience for the young man.
Routes: South Face (S 4a:led)
Very possibly the most obscure crag in Cornwall! This is the obvious 10 metre high 'boulder' visible from Coverack and looked like it might provide a nice introduction to trad for M. It didn't, partly because it was a mile away and he doesn't like walking, but mainly because of the absurd bushwhacking approach through brambles and ferns. It goes without saying that nobody would choose to visit this on a Cornish climbing holiday, but it was short and near our cottage. A nice coastal walk leads to a wall then that dreadful approach. We finally reached the crag and I led up the obvious ramp line (vegetated) which leads to a few nice clean (quite steep) moves up to a thread belay. M followed competently, getting all my gear out, although he dynoed for the top jug in best Stallone/Cliffhanger style! Curiosity satisfied, we went back for tea. Hard to imagine a less alluring climbing experience for the young man.
Coverack-Cadgwith run
Our first full day on the Lizard, returning to Little Pednavounder farm after two years absence. High cloud and light winds, so the picture-postcard village of Cadgwith seemed like a good idea. I arranged to meet the family there, and set off for one of my favourite runs anywhere: from the cottage down to the edge of Chynhalls Head near Coverack. This little warm up gives access to the superb coastal path over Black Head to atmospheric Beagle's Cove with its legend of buried treasure and whiff of romance. Strenuous running with sharp climbs out of steep hidden coves eventually gains a level fast section down to Kennack Sands. From here, a steep tarmac climb leads to sheltered running towards the headland above Cadgwith: good views past Caerleon Cove and Ennys Head, choughs overhead. Up steeply through the village to meet the family, then we continued towards the Lizard - walking this time - past the Devil's Frying Pan to Polgwiddw Cove and an inland route past Gwavas and Prazegooth back to Cadgwith.
Saturday, August 08, 2015
Roche Rock climbing
Crag: Roche Rock, Cornwall
Routes: Corner and Staircase (D:sol), Moping Owl (VS 4c:sh), Porky (VS 4c:sh), South-East Buttress (VD:sol/sh)
Another pre-breakfast visit to this crag, just a couple of miles from where we were staying. A perfect morning this time: not a cloud in the deep blue sky. I needed to come back as I realised I had missed all the best routes yesterday. This time, I concentrated on the main south face, initially re-climbing the opening crack of the two-star Diff, trailing a rope behind. This gives way to the 'staircase', easy climbing up a slab to finish between two large pinnacles. I found a thread and headed down the ladders. Both the best VS routes start up the crack I'd soloed yesterday. Moping Owl takes a less direct route, along a juggy traverse to a steep move on rounded holds moving left to the top. Porky is the line of the crag, its best route. It takes the crack up to an obvious crux, steep and gently overhanging: a strenuous move up to good holds, then a shuffle right to gain a small platform. This was a great move. Above, the route stays interesting, good climbing up a vague arete in a great position. All on sun-drenched rock, a nice start to the day. I finished off with the two-star V Diff of South-East Buttress on a loose shunt from the initial pinnacle. This is a nice varied line, good value for the grade. A step off the pinnacle, awkward, gains a rounded traverse left on big holds. Nice position, and fine juggy climbing leads back up to the top for the fourth time. A fine collection of the crag's best routes. Back for breakfast, then the short drive to Coverack.
Routes: Corner and Staircase (D:sol), Moping Owl (VS 4c:sh), Porky (VS 4c:sh), South-East Buttress (VD:sol/sh)
Another pre-breakfast visit to this crag, just a couple of miles from where we were staying. A perfect morning this time: not a cloud in the deep blue sky. I needed to come back as I realised I had missed all the best routes yesterday. This time, I concentrated on the main south face, initially re-climbing the opening crack of the two-star Diff, trailing a rope behind. This gives way to the 'staircase', easy climbing up a slab to finish between two large pinnacles. I found a thread and headed down the ladders. Both the best VS routes start up the crack I'd soloed yesterday. Moping Owl takes a less direct route, along a juggy traverse to a steep move on rounded holds moving left to the top. Porky is the line of the crag, its best route. It takes the crack up to an obvious crux, steep and gently overhanging: a strenuous move up to good holds, then a shuffle right to gain a small platform. This was a great move. Above, the route stays interesting, good climbing up a vague arete in a great position. All on sun-drenched rock, a nice start to the day. I finished off with the two-star V Diff of South-East Buttress on a loose shunt from the initial pinnacle. This is a nice varied line, good value for the grade. A step off the pinnacle, awkward, gains a rounded traverse left on big holds. Nice position, and fine juggy climbing leads back up to the top for the fourth time. A fine collection of the crag's best routes. Back for breakfast, then the short drive to Coverack.
Friday, August 07, 2015
Mawgan Porth-Bedruthan Steps-Porthcothan run
After an excellent morning enjoying the body-boarding on this lovely low-key beach (much nicer than Polzeath), I got a bit cold. I wanted to see the Bedruthan Steps, so ran along the coast path in a northerly direction. The usual superb coastal scenery and spectacular secluded coves, and the usual tough running with lots of climbing. The impressive Bedruthan is reached very quickly, then fine running past Pentire Steps to Park Head and an initially inland route over to Porth Mear. I went a bit further on towards Porthcothan then just reversed the route, but sticking religiously to the coast path, in light rain: around an hour at a reasonably quick pace. The sun came out back at Mawgan Porth, so it was time for a pasty then more surf with the family.
Roche Rock climbing
Crag: Roche Rock, Cornwall
Routes: Tressa (D:sol), Kynsa (D:sol), Nessa (S 4a:sol), Hweghves (S 4a:sol), East Chimney (S 4b:sol/sh), East Chimney Right-Hand (HS 4b:sh), Slab Eliminate (HS 4b:sol), Porky Start (S:sol)
Surely one of the most gothic locations in the UK: this place reminded me of Mow Cop, although I had never heard of it before we arranged our short stopover in Roche, just west of Bodmin. The crag has a decaying monastery at its centre, and although quite small gives excellent climbing on remarkable rock (quartz shorl, with fabulous friction). I made my way to the obvious detached slab for a very enjoyable warm-up (it was only just after 7am!). All these routes are easy-angled but enjoyable, and those further right have awkward and rather delicate starts. I then climbed the ladders up to the ruined monastery, looking for shunt options. Not easy, but eventually I got the ropes down the obvious lines running up the full height of the eastern face (20m high). I had no guidebook, but later research suggests the first route (partially shunted) was East Chimney. Rounded and steep lower down, it becomes positive and excellent higher up. The Right-Hand variant was much better: a cracking line and climb that clearly gets some traffic. Another steep, mildly strenuous start leads up to easier climbing really making use of the superb friction. Lovely positive flakes and juggy holds leading up to a broad, but non-thrutchy chimney exit taken on superb holds. After messing around on what turned out to be the most popular part of the crag, with all the best routes, I headed back to the motel for breakfast resolving to return for another early morning trip next day. After breakfast, it was time to check the surf in Mawgan Porth.
Surely one of the most gothic locations in the UK: this place reminded me of Mow Cop, although I had never heard of it before we arranged our short stopover in Roche, just west of Bodmin. The crag has a decaying monastery at its centre, and although quite small gives excellent climbing on remarkable rock (quartz shorl, with fabulous friction). I made my way to the obvious detached slab for a very enjoyable warm-up (it was only just after 7am!). All these routes are easy-angled but enjoyable, and those further right have awkward and rather delicate starts. I then climbed the ladders up to the ruined monastery, looking for shunt options. Not easy, but eventually I got the ropes down the obvious lines running up the full height of the eastern face (20m high). I had no guidebook, but later research suggests the first route (partially shunted) was East Chimney. Rounded and steep lower down, it becomes positive and excellent higher up. The Right-Hand variant was much better: a cracking line and climb that clearly gets some traffic. Another steep, mildly strenuous start leads up to easier climbing really making use of the superb friction. Lovely positive flakes and juggy holds leading up to a broad, but non-thrutchy chimney exit taken on superb holds. After messing around on what turned out to be the most popular part of the crag, with all the best routes, I headed back to the motel for breakfast resolving to return for another early morning trip next day. After breakfast, it was time to check the surf in Mawgan Porth.
Wednesday, August 05, 2015
Dartmoor climbs, run, walk
Crag: Irishman's Wall, Belstone Tor, Dartmoor
Routes: Central Corner (M:sol), Meander's Mutterings (S 4b:sol), Ann, Jim & Mary (S 4b:sol), Caffery's* (S 4b:sol)
After a fine run down the Granite Trail from Sourton to Lydford Gorge, and a family walk, we enjoyed a superb pub lunch. Thus fortified, we headed round to the north-eastern side of Dartmoor and the pretty Devon village of Belstone. A lovely walk to the top of Belstone Tor gave the family a taste of the Dartmoor atmosphere in superb conditions of shifting cloud, wind and showers: all quite photogenic. At the top, Irishman's Wall is obvious: a long broken wall presumably built by navvies. A little crag, like a cube of absolutely immaculate rough granite rises above it, so I nipped up the routes as a huge shower cloud threatened from the north. The corner was easy, with a harder variant to the right. An awkward start up the 4b crack further left gave a few moments thought, but leads to easier climbing up shelves. Nice moves: a very small but perfectly formed lump of rough granite. It started to rain, so we all headed back down the ridge (an inadvertent reccie for the Sticklepath Horseshoe race scheduled for our return journey: it covered exactly the same ground). The rain got heavier as we descended but our work for the day was over.
Routes: Central Corner (M:sol), Meander's Mutterings (S 4b:sol), Ann, Jim & Mary (S 4b:sol), Caffery's* (S 4b:sol)
After a fine run down the Granite Trail from Sourton to Lydford Gorge, and a family walk, we enjoyed a superb pub lunch. Thus fortified, we headed round to the north-eastern side of Dartmoor and the pretty Devon village of Belstone. A lovely walk to the top of Belstone Tor gave the family a taste of the Dartmoor atmosphere in superb conditions of shifting cloud, wind and showers: all quite photogenic. At the top, Irishman's Wall is obvious: a long broken wall presumably built by navvies. A little crag, like a cube of absolutely immaculate rough granite rises above it, so I nipped up the routes as a huge shower cloud threatened from the north. The corner was easy, with a harder variant to the right. An awkward start up the 4b crack further left gave a few moments thought, but leads to easier climbing up shelves. Nice moves: a very small but perfectly formed lump of rough granite. It started to rain, so we all headed back down the ridge (an inadvertent reccie for the Sticklepath Horseshoe race scheduled for our return journey: it covered exactly the same ground). The rain got heavier as we descended but our work for the day was over.
Tuesday, August 04, 2015
Dartmoor run
Peaks: Yes Tor (2031ft), High Willhays (2039ft)
Area: Dartmoor, Devon
From our motel in Stourton, you could see the western fringe of Dartmoor with the highest hills. So before an evening trip to Okehampton for fish and chips, I nipped up to the highpoint of High Willhays from below Meldon. I treated it as a speed session, contouring the lower Roundstone Hill to pick up a diagonal track leading to a tussocky climb direct to the very windy summit of High Willhays. Nobody around at all in the early evening. I ran across to Yes Tor, the 'roof of Devon' and enjoyed a few minutes bouldering on the tors. Then a winding and circuitous descent, really excellent running, over the top of Roundstone Hill down to the shores of Meldon reservoir and fast running back to the car park. The highest English land south of Kinder Scout, it resembles the Peak District in some ways but in general I found Dartmoor to be more pleasant - perhaps it's just the lack of familiarity as this was my first ever visit. Next morning I had another nice run from our motel to Lydford Gorge where I joined the family for the full circuit past the waterfall.
Area: Dartmoor, Devon
From our motel in Stourton, you could see the western fringe of Dartmoor with the highest hills. So before an evening trip to Okehampton for fish and chips, I nipped up to the highpoint of High Willhays from below Meldon. I treated it as a speed session, contouring the lower Roundstone Hill to pick up a diagonal track leading to a tussocky climb direct to the very windy summit of High Willhays. Nobody around at all in the early evening. I ran across to Yes Tor, the 'roof of Devon' and enjoyed a few minutes bouldering on the tors. Then a winding and circuitous descent, really excellent running, over the top of Roundstone Hill down to the shores of Meldon reservoir and fast running back to the car park. The highest English land south of Kinder Scout, it resembles the Peak District in some ways but in general I found Dartmoor to be more pleasant - perhaps it's just the lack of familiarity as this was my first ever visit. Next morning I had another nice run from our motel to Lydford Gorge where I joined the family for the full circuit past the waterfall.
Dartmoor Scrambles
Crag: Hound Tor, Dartmoor, Devon
Climbs: Paddy (M:sol), Right Chimney (D:sol)
After scratching around Haytor with full gear in gale force winds and drizzle, I concluded today was not the ideal day for a family climbing session, so after ice cream in the Dartmoor village of Widecombe-on-the-Moor we walked up to Hound Tor in much sunnier and warmer conditions. Some bouldering and a few scrambles on these fine granite tors followed.
Climbs: Paddy (M:sol), Right Chimney (D:sol)
After scratching around Haytor with full gear in gale force winds and drizzle, I concluded today was not the ideal day for a family climbing session, so after ice cream in the Dartmoor village of Widecombe-on-the-Moor we walked up to Hound Tor in much sunnier and warmer conditions. Some bouldering and a few scrambles on these fine granite tors followed.
Sunday, August 02, 2015
Flintshire end-to-end cycling
Road cycling: Kinnerton-Moel Arthur-St Asaph
Distance: 55k
Not strictly true, as a lot of this ride was in Denbighshire. I'll have to work out a different 'Tour de Flintshire' using the historical boundaries! An early start from Kinnerton on the Cheshire border, rather tired after a long Hope Mountain run yesterday, through Padeswood and Mold to Nannerch. Still fairly quiet early on Sunday morning, but a horrible road - particularly the stretch through Hendre - and it was wet throughout after overnight rain. At Nannerch, I turned off for the locally noted climb up to Moel Arthur. This is a bit disjointed, far from a uniform slope, and kicks up three or four times quite sharply to gain the gentle slopes leading to the bwlch below Moel Arthur. A bit of drizzle, but it's always a nice spot. A very steep and rutted descent, which really needs a mountain bike, leads to Llandyrnog, then nice riding to Bodfari, Trefnant and St Asaph for lunch. Only 1.45 in total, and not very far at all in terms of mileage, which is a tad unfortunate as I need considerably more saddle time in advance of the imminent Wild Wales Challenge.
Distance: 55k
Not strictly true, as a lot of this ride was in Denbighshire. I'll have to work out a different 'Tour de Flintshire' using the historical boundaries! An early start from Kinnerton on the Cheshire border, rather tired after a long Hope Mountain run yesterday, through Padeswood and Mold to Nannerch. Still fairly quiet early on Sunday morning, but a horrible road - particularly the stretch through Hendre - and it was wet throughout after overnight rain. At Nannerch, I turned off for the locally noted climb up to Moel Arthur. This is a bit disjointed, far from a uniform slope, and kicks up three or four times quite sharply to gain the gentle slopes leading to the bwlch below Moel Arthur. A bit of drizzle, but it's always a nice spot. A very steep and rutted descent, which really needs a mountain bike, leads to Llandyrnog, then nice riding to Bodfari, Trefnant and St Asaph for lunch. Only 1.45 in total, and not very far at all in terms of mileage, which is a tad unfortunate as I need considerably more saddle time in advance of the imminent Wild Wales Challenge.
Friday, July 31, 2015
Llanberis/Pen Trwyn climbing
Crag: Vivian Quarry, Llanberis Slate
Routes: Mental Lentils (HVS 5b:led)
Crag: Sticky Mix Wall, Lighthouse Crags, Great Orme
Routes: Sundowner (f6a:led), Woo Woo (f6a+:sec), Black Orchid (f6a+:sec), Black Iris (f6b:sec), New Route (f5+:led)
The classic rain-affected Welsh climbing day: always requires a bit of creative thinking and local knowledge to get things done. A positive forecast initially lured us to Vivian Quarry, thinking we could salvage something on quick-drying slate between the showers. But, contrary to the forecast, the rain started as soon as we arrived. It stayed light momentarily, so I set off up Mental Lentils, the trade route of the crag, in something of a hurry - as a large black cloud threatened heavier rain. The start was greasy and it began raining again immediately. A few flat holds lead to a traverse left to a tiny nut placement. Then rather worrying moves on wet slate to gain the first bolt. The rain began to get a tad heavier, so I sprinted up the fine crack which gives a superb friend placement. At the second bolt, a brief crux move (didn't feel like 5b) on small holds gains the lower-off just before the entire slab was soaked by heavier rain: up in less than five minutes! Nice route, easy for the grade as is often the case on slate. Andy and Hayley seconded the route in the wet, then we prudently retreated from Psychotherapy as the rain drenched everything: headed straight to the Orme in search of dry rock. The Sticky Mix wall, unaffected by summer access problems, seemed a sensible choice and so it was, despite a few more light showers and a cold northerly wind blowing straight into the face. It is a wonderful place to climb, wild and remote feeling despite its proximity to Llandudno, poised directly above the sea with great views of Ynys Mon: we'd reccied it a few weeks ago and I was very keen to get on the newly bolted routes. I began by leading Sundowner, which takes the blunt 'arete' on the left of the crag in an excellent position. A few steep moves at the start form an early crux: but the rock is rough and the holds good. It eases off after the third bolt, moving between breaks to gain a steep but very juggy and rough layback crack. A tricky finishing move completes the route, which gets quite exposed higher up. In the wind and drizzle today, above a dark green sea, it gave a fine climbing experience. Its companion route goes more easily up juggy rock to a similar layback crack higher up: but this time the crack is closed, less positive and harder to read. Half a grade harder but another nice route. Much further right, Andy then led Black Orchid at f6a+. This was on rather crumbly rock and was surprisingly sustained: harder than it looks from below with far fewer rests than might be expected from the number of horizontal breaks. Black Iris, to the left, takes a more natural line up a vague groove. It goes easily up steep juggy cracks to a baffling crux up a steep miniature slab. Again, much more pumpy and sustained than it looks. With forearm strength fading, I stepped on the bolt at the top of this crux section. Nice climbing again though, rough limestone, juggy and steep. We even had a bit of sunshine on this route. For a finale, I led a newly bolted route next to the approach gully. No details about it, but it went at about f5+ and was very pleasant. It was a lot slabbier than the Sticky Mix routes, apart from a few steepish moves up the initial wall. This gains a smooth slab but some excellent holds appear just when you need them. Good flakey jugs, reminiscent of St Victoire or Orpierre in places. At the top, a steeper undercut move gains the lower-off. Nice route, whatever it was, and a pleasant way to warm down after the steeper stuff further left.
Routes: Mental Lentils (HVS 5b:led)
Crag: Sticky Mix Wall, Lighthouse Crags, Great Orme
Routes: Sundowner (f6a:led), Woo Woo (f6a+:sec), Black Orchid (f6a+:sec), Black Iris (f6b:sec), New Route (f5+:led)
The classic rain-affected Welsh climbing day: always requires a bit of creative thinking and local knowledge to get things done. A positive forecast initially lured us to Vivian Quarry, thinking we could salvage something on quick-drying slate between the showers. But, contrary to the forecast, the rain started as soon as we arrived. It stayed light momentarily, so I set off up Mental Lentils, the trade route of the crag, in something of a hurry - as a large black cloud threatened heavier rain. The start was greasy and it began raining again immediately. A few flat holds lead to a traverse left to a tiny nut placement. Then rather worrying moves on wet slate to gain the first bolt. The rain began to get a tad heavier, so I sprinted up the fine crack which gives a superb friend placement. At the second bolt, a brief crux move (didn't feel like 5b) on small holds gains the lower-off just before the entire slab was soaked by heavier rain: up in less than five minutes! Nice route, easy for the grade as is often the case on slate. Andy and Hayley seconded the route in the wet, then we prudently retreated from Psychotherapy as the rain drenched everything: headed straight to the Orme in search of dry rock. The Sticky Mix wall, unaffected by summer access problems, seemed a sensible choice and so it was, despite a few more light showers and a cold northerly wind blowing straight into the face. It is a wonderful place to climb, wild and remote feeling despite its proximity to Llandudno, poised directly above the sea with great views of Ynys Mon: we'd reccied it a few weeks ago and I was very keen to get on the newly bolted routes. I began by leading Sundowner, which takes the blunt 'arete' on the left of the crag in an excellent position. A few steep moves at the start form an early crux: but the rock is rough and the holds good. It eases off after the third bolt, moving between breaks to gain a steep but very juggy and rough layback crack. A tricky finishing move completes the route, which gets quite exposed higher up. In the wind and drizzle today, above a dark green sea, it gave a fine climbing experience. Its companion route goes more easily up juggy rock to a similar layback crack higher up: but this time the crack is closed, less positive and harder to read. Half a grade harder but another nice route. Much further right, Andy then led Black Orchid at f6a+. This was on rather crumbly rock and was surprisingly sustained: harder than it looks from below with far fewer rests than might be expected from the number of horizontal breaks. Black Iris, to the left, takes a more natural line up a vague groove. It goes easily up steep juggy cracks to a baffling crux up a steep miniature slab. Again, much more pumpy and sustained than it looks. With forearm strength fading, I stepped on the bolt at the top of this crux section. Nice climbing again though, rough limestone, juggy and steep. We even had a bit of sunshine on this route. For a finale, I led a newly bolted route next to the approach gully. No details about it, but it went at about f5+ and was very pleasant. It was a lot slabbier than the Sticky Mix routes, apart from a few steepish moves up the initial wall. This gains a smooth slab but some excellent holds appear just when you need them. Good flakey jugs, reminiscent of St Victoire or Orpierre in places. At the top, a steeper undercut move gains the lower-off. Nice route, whatever it was, and a pleasant way to warm down after the steeper stuff further left.
Saturday, July 25, 2015
Lingmell Dash fell race
Race: Lingmell Dash (British and English Championship)
Peaks: Lingmell, Wasdale, Lake District
Time/Position: 56.51 (77th from 137)
It seemed like a good idea to extend this British Championship fell race by walking in to the start over Eskdale Moor past Burnmoor Tarn, over five miles and 800ft of climbing. Clearly inspired by our 'value for money' approach to last Wednesday's race, it worked well but was obviously rather tiring, especially after a morning climbing on Hare Crag. The weather remained glorious, although some high cloud pushed in as we started walking from the lovely village of Boot in Eskdale. An old bridleway winds up the hillside to the open moor, gaining height easily. Then, a long trudge across to eventually gain Burnmoor Tarn. Soon, views open out to Wasdale and familiar hills become visible (albeit from an unfamiliar angle). Yewbarrow was directly ahead, Great Gable further right and, soon, Lingmell appeared below Scafell. A long descent above Wastwater led down to the valley and an even longer walk to pick up our numbers near the pub. There was just time for a coffee at the famous Ritson's Bar before the race started. I've done a few British Championship races over the years and they are always characterised by a quality field. There is no let up, and the pace was relentless for the dash from the pub, along Wasdale to pick up the main Brown Tongue path briefly, then streams of runners branched off for the direct route up the hillside to pick up the 'Shoulder' - the obvious ridge coming down from the summit of Lingmell. This gives an absolutely brutal climb, very steep for several hundred metres. I used my hands wherever possible and made reasonable progress, although Vic stayed in front of me until the ridge eased off higher up and became runnable. I picked up quite a few places here, good views to the right over Scafell and Scafell Pike. Over an old wall, then a brief rocky section before rounding the summit cairn in 39.30. I gashed my shin on the summit rocks and took a while to get going on the descent. I lost a couple of places on the initial section, but then held my place reasonably well over the grassy plateau then the exceptionally steep and sustained descent of the Shoulder. Very punishing on the quads. A bit of scree suited me, but I was relieved to pick up the main path lower down (sunny and almost hot now). An excellent sprint back to the finish near the pub. Satisfying to break the hour, and the race reminded me of Moel Siabod in this (and many other) respects. As ever, the field was ludicrously strong: I'm not sure I have ever finished in the top 40 in a British Champs race (41st is my best ever!). This was also an English Champs counter, so the field was even stronger. After a few cups of squash and a bite to eat, relaxing and enjoying glorious sunshine, we headed back to Eskdale. The crux comes immediately: the steep climb from the shores of Wastwater up to the plateau below Illgill Head. Steady progress in warm sunshine past Burnmoor Tarn, superb clarity of light that got better as the day wore on. Beautiful descent through woodland to Boot: at least 16 miles in total.
Peaks: Lingmell, Wasdale, Lake District
Time/Position: 56.51 (77th from 137)
It seemed like a good idea to extend this British Championship fell race by walking in to the start over Eskdale Moor past Burnmoor Tarn, over five miles and 800ft of climbing. Clearly inspired by our 'value for money' approach to last Wednesday's race, it worked well but was obviously rather tiring, especially after a morning climbing on Hare Crag. The weather remained glorious, although some high cloud pushed in as we started walking from the lovely village of Boot in Eskdale. An old bridleway winds up the hillside to the open moor, gaining height easily. Then, a long trudge across to eventually gain Burnmoor Tarn. Soon, views open out to Wasdale and familiar hills become visible (albeit from an unfamiliar angle). Yewbarrow was directly ahead, Great Gable further right and, soon, Lingmell appeared below Scafell. A long descent above Wastwater led down to the valley and an even longer walk to pick up our numbers near the pub. There was just time for a coffee at the famous Ritson's Bar before the race started. I've done a few British Championship races over the years and they are always characterised by a quality field. There is no let up, and the pace was relentless for the dash from the pub, along Wasdale to pick up the main Brown Tongue path briefly, then streams of runners branched off for the direct route up the hillside to pick up the 'Shoulder' - the obvious ridge coming down from the summit of Lingmell. This gives an absolutely brutal climb, very steep for several hundred metres. I used my hands wherever possible and made reasonable progress, although Vic stayed in front of me until the ridge eased off higher up and became runnable. I picked up quite a few places here, good views to the right over Scafell and Scafell Pike. Over an old wall, then a brief rocky section before rounding the summit cairn in 39.30. I gashed my shin on the summit rocks and took a while to get going on the descent. I lost a couple of places on the initial section, but then held my place reasonably well over the grassy plateau then the exceptionally steep and sustained descent of the Shoulder. Very punishing on the quads. A bit of scree suited me, but I was relieved to pick up the main path lower down (sunny and almost hot now). An excellent sprint back to the finish near the pub. Satisfying to break the hour, and the race reminded me of Moel Siabod in this (and many other) respects. As ever, the field was ludicrously strong: I'm not sure I have ever finished in the top 40 in a British Champs race (41st is my best ever!). This was also an English Champs counter, so the field was even stronger. After a few cups of squash and a bite to eat, relaxing and enjoying glorious sunshine, we headed back to Eskdale. The crux comes immediately: the steep climb from the shores of Wastwater up to the plateau below Illgill Head. Steady progress in warm sunshine past Burnmoor Tarn, superb clarity of light that got better as the day wore on. Beautiful descent through woodland to Boot: at least 16 miles in total.
Eskdale climbing
Crag: Hare Crag, Eskdale, Lake District
Routes: Celebration (MVS 4b:sol), The Rib (D:des), Easy Slab (VD:sol), Fireball XL5 (MVS 4b:led), Jugged Hare (MVS 4b:sec), Slab Route (S:led)
After a night in the superbly positioned Eskdale youth hostel and a cooked breakfast, we ambled up the path through chest-high ferns to this crag: just a few minutes walk in beautiful early morning sunshine. Our plans for the day were ambitious and required precise timing: two or three hours climbing (so we had to move fast to tick the crag and sample the three distinct buttresses so obvious from the hostel grounds), then a long walk from Eskdale to Wasdale, then the Lingmell Dash British Championship fell race, then a long walk back to Eskdale for the long drive home! This, the first part, went very well. We headed for the obvious triangular slab for a delightful solo warm-up on three easy routes. First, Celebration: theoretically VS 4b but only because of the lack of gear. Nicely delicate slab climbing on superb and surprisingly unpolished rock. I traversed across to the Rib on the left of the slab and descended this back to the base. Continuous movement on rock first thing in the morning: lovely! A bit further right, Easy Slab was as described, a splendid easy romp up to the apex of the slab on better holds than Celebration. From here, we moved round to the central crag where I led the mild VS of Fireball XL5. This was short but very varied and enjoyable, again on surprisingly unpolished rock. A lovely crack up the left side of a big flake leads to its tip. From here, a distinct crux move up a steep crack leads to a slabby corner above. This is still interesting though. Conscious of the time, we moved immediately across to the final lefthand buttress, where Vic led Jugged Hare at the same grade. This had a bold start up a slab, and a lovely upper wall which took a delicious flake crack which begged to be climbed. Satisfying, simple laybacking. If it went on for 50 metres it would be a famous classic! After descending, I had a few minutes to sprint up Slab Route, a rather bold but very easy Severe covering a large amount of the crag, which takes a curving crack line diagonally right up the upper slabs to gain a small ledge. Then fluted rough cracks give a welcome friend placement and juggy finish. After two hours of pleasure, it was now time for the pain, so we walked back to the hostel past singing yellowhammers, still in glorious sunshine, and drove to the nearby village of Boot for the walk-in to Wasdale.
Routes: Celebration (MVS 4b:sol), The Rib (D:des), Easy Slab (VD:sol), Fireball XL5 (MVS 4b:led), Jugged Hare (MVS 4b:sec), Slab Route (S:led)
After a night in the superbly positioned Eskdale youth hostel and a cooked breakfast, we ambled up the path through chest-high ferns to this crag: just a few minutes walk in beautiful early morning sunshine. Our plans for the day were ambitious and required precise timing: two or three hours climbing (so we had to move fast to tick the crag and sample the three distinct buttresses so obvious from the hostel grounds), then a long walk from Eskdale to Wasdale, then the Lingmell Dash British Championship fell race, then a long walk back to Eskdale for the long drive home! This, the first part, went very well. We headed for the obvious triangular slab for a delightful solo warm-up on three easy routes. First, Celebration: theoretically VS 4b but only because of the lack of gear. Nicely delicate slab climbing on superb and surprisingly unpolished rock. I traversed across to the Rib on the left of the slab and descended this back to the base. Continuous movement on rock first thing in the morning: lovely! A bit further right, Easy Slab was as described, a splendid easy romp up to the apex of the slab on better holds than Celebration. From here, we moved round to the central crag where I led the mild VS of Fireball XL5. This was short but very varied and enjoyable, again on surprisingly unpolished rock. A lovely crack up the left side of a big flake leads to its tip. From here, a distinct crux move up a steep crack leads to a slabby corner above. This is still interesting though. Conscious of the time, we moved immediately across to the final lefthand buttress, where Vic led Jugged Hare at the same grade. This had a bold start up a slab, and a lovely upper wall which took a delicious flake crack which begged to be climbed. Satisfying, simple laybacking. If it went on for 50 metres it would be a famous classic! After descending, I had a few minutes to sprint up Slab Route, a rather bold but very easy Severe covering a large amount of the crag, which takes a curving crack line diagonally right up the upper slabs to gain a small ledge. Then fluted rough cracks give a welcome friend placement and juggy finish. After two hours of pleasure, it was now time for the pain, so we walked back to the hostel past singing yellowhammers, still in glorious sunshine, and drove to the nearby village of Boot for the walk-in to Wasdale.
Friday, July 24, 2015
Wallowbarrow climbing
Crag: Wallowbarrow, Duddon Valley, Lake District
Routes: Thomas (S 4a,4a:led p.1,2), Malediction p.1 (VD:led), The Plum (VS 4c:sec), Digitation (MVS 4b,4b:led p.1)
There aren't many crags 15 minutes walk from a road that are as quiet as this. Then again, there aren't many areas quite as exquisite and tucked away as the Duddon Valley, perhaps the finest corner of Lakeland. I'd only been here once before, during the Saunders Mountain Marathon in 2009, when the overnight camp was at Turner Farm and I gazed down on Wallowbarrow from my tent. We were en route to the YHA in Eskdale before tomorrow's fell race in Wasdale, so this seemed a logical choice of crag to stop off at for a few late routes, particularly as it is so difficult to access from the south and we were virtually passing it. Its low grade climbs seemed ideal as there were plenty of showers passing over as we enjoyed coffee and tea loaf in Broughton. Although it was late in the day, we did the 'long' walk-in from Seathwaite church, quite delightful, through oak woodland and across the river Duddon to Wallowbarrow farm and a little track to the base of the crag. The low-grade classic of the crag is Thomas, a three-pitch Severe taking a distinct central rib between the two main buttresses. I led up the first pitch in very light drizzle, planning to merge it with pitch two. This gave a wonderfully relaxed and lengthy 40 metre pitch. A crack led to easy angled climbing up an inclining wall to the normal belay ledge. Above, the route steepens and gives some lovely climbing up the front of the rib. The rain fell more steadily as I brought Vic up, and he led a short final pitch up a series of enjoyable grooves. A lovely route. After descending, I led up the easy broken ridge (p.1 of Malediction, just a scramble really) which gives access to three or four classic VS routes on the left of the crag. Vic went for The Plum at VS 4c, another good route which traverses right to juggy climbing up a steep slab, which gets steeper at a hanging flake and chimney groove. This gives a few interesting and quite steep moves, although there is never any need for thrutching, the solutions are always there. Perhaps the most obvious line on the crag, and very enjoyable again. After a bite to eat, we moved round to the eastern buttress, where the clean slab of Digitation inevitably attracts the attention. I couldn't resist, so led up the three perched blocks to gain some delectable slabby climbing up to a short corner. This gives a superb nut placement before delicate climbing leads to a horizontal break before a crux pull over a little overlap. Slabs lead to a big stance which breaks the route up a bit, but a nice steep crack kept things varied for Vic's second pitch before we jogged down to the car and drove round to Eskdale for a meal at the YHA and a couple of pints at the Woolpack. Lovely venue, beautiful location: all routes flowed very quickly, a very satisfying couple of hours work.
Routes: Thomas (S 4a,4a:led p.1,2), Malediction p.1 (VD:led), The Plum (VS 4c:sec), Digitation (MVS 4b,4b:led p.1)
There aren't many crags 15 minutes walk from a road that are as quiet as this. Then again, there aren't many areas quite as exquisite and tucked away as the Duddon Valley, perhaps the finest corner of Lakeland. I'd only been here once before, during the Saunders Mountain Marathon in 2009, when the overnight camp was at Turner Farm and I gazed down on Wallowbarrow from my tent. We were en route to the YHA in Eskdale before tomorrow's fell race in Wasdale, so this seemed a logical choice of crag to stop off at for a few late routes, particularly as it is so difficult to access from the south and we were virtually passing it. Its low grade climbs seemed ideal as there were plenty of showers passing over as we enjoyed coffee and tea loaf in Broughton. Although it was late in the day, we did the 'long' walk-in from Seathwaite church, quite delightful, through oak woodland and across the river Duddon to Wallowbarrow farm and a little track to the base of the crag. The low-grade classic of the crag is Thomas, a three-pitch Severe taking a distinct central rib between the two main buttresses. I led up the first pitch in very light drizzle, planning to merge it with pitch two. This gave a wonderfully relaxed and lengthy 40 metre pitch. A crack led to easy angled climbing up an inclining wall to the normal belay ledge. Above, the route steepens and gives some lovely climbing up the front of the rib. The rain fell more steadily as I brought Vic up, and he led a short final pitch up a series of enjoyable grooves. A lovely route. After descending, I led up the easy broken ridge (p.1 of Malediction, just a scramble really) which gives access to three or four classic VS routes on the left of the crag. Vic went for The Plum at VS 4c, another good route which traverses right to juggy climbing up a steep slab, which gets steeper at a hanging flake and chimney groove. This gives a few interesting and quite steep moves, although there is never any need for thrutching, the solutions are always there. Perhaps the most obvious line on the crag, and very enjoyable again. After a bite to eat, we moved round to the eastern buttress, where the clean slab of Digitation inevitably attracts the attention. I couldn't resist, so led up the three perched blocks to gain some delectable slabby climbing up to a short corner. This gives a superb nut placement before delicate climbing leads to a horizontal break before a crux pull over a little overlap. Slabs lead to a big stance which breaks the route up a bit, but a nice steep crack kept things varied for Vic's second pitch before we jogged down to the car and drove round to Eskdale for a meal at the YHA and a couple of pints at the Woolpack. Lovely venue, beautiful location: all routes flowed very quickly, a very satisfying couple of hours work.
Wednesday, July 22, 2015
Green Grass fell race
Race: Green Grass of Home fell race (5m/1500ft)
Time/Position: 43.15 (6th from 79 [3rd V40])
A completely new route for this race, the third in the summer evening series. It's not one I've been able to do very often over the years, as I'm generally away on holiday. Having not done much since returning from Morocco with a dose of delhi belly, I asked Jez if he fancied tripling the mileage by running over to the start from Cilcain. He liked the idea, so we jogged over the old drover's road to the top of the Clwydian ridge, then past the start and down to the Goldie in Llangynhafal to register. The new route was really excellent, very runnable, and I actually enjoyed myself for a change. It went back up the track towards the ridge, then steeply up to gain the Clwydian Hills climb - which in descent is a fast and exhilarating treat. I passed four runners on this descent, unusual for me, and found myself in sixth place as we then climbed out of the hidden valley to the north. Overgrown in places but a very obscure part of the range and good fun. This was a long climb, and it emerged on the main OD ridge path. Superb running along here in perfect conditions: some evening sunshine and a cool breeze. The route branched off towards Cilcain (that is, the way Jez and I had just run over) and then along the narrow path towards Famau and Pwll y Rhos. Then back over Moel Dywyll to a hard and tussocky descent. My ankle gave way almost immediately and my old shoes (with toe flaps hanging off) continually tripped over the thick heather. I ended up on my back twice! Lost loads of ground and could hear runners gaining on me. Luckily, I just held them off before gaining the main track and pelting down this to the finish. Got the first V40 prize but only by default. After prize giving and a pint, we ran back over the ridge to Cilcain as darkness fell.
Time/Position: 43.15 (6th from 79 [3rd V40])
A completely new route for this race, the third in the summer evening series. It's not one I've been able to do very often over the years, as I'm generally away on holiday. Having not done much since returning from Morocco with a dose of delhi belly, I asked Jez if he fancied tripling the mileage by running over to the start from Cilcain. He liked the idea, so we jogged over the old drover's road to the top of the Clwydian ridge, then past the start and down to the Goldie in Llangynhafal to register. The new route was really excellent, very runnable, and I actually enjoyed myself for a change. It went back up the track towards the ridge, then steeply up to gain the Clwydian Hills climb - which in descent is a fast and exhilarating treat. I passed four runners on this descent, unusual for me, and found myself in sixth place as we then climbed out of the hidden valley to the north. Overgrown in places but a very obscure part of the range and good fun. This was a long climb, and it emerged on the main OD ridge path. Superb running along here in perfect conditions: some evening sunshine and a cool breeze. The route branched off towards Cilcain (that is, the way Jez and I had just run over) and then along the narrow path towards Famau and Pwll y Rhos. Then back over Moel Dywyll to a hard and tussocky descent. My ankle gave way almost immediately and my old shoes (with toe flaps hanging off) continually tripped over the thick heather. I ended up on my back twice! Lost loads of ground and could hear runners gaining on me. Luckily, I just held them off before gaining the main track and pelting down this to the finish. Got the first V40 prize but only by default. After prize giving and a pint, we ran back over the ridge to Cilcain as darkness fell.
Tuesday, July 14, 2015
Ouanoukrim circuit
Peaks: Ras (4083m/13,396ft), Timesguida (4089m/13,415ft)
Area: Ouanoukrim, High Atlas, Morocco
A superb and unusual mountain, which interested me considerably more than Toubkal. Ouanoukrim has double summits, rising from a vast lunar plateau, and is well defended on all sides by a combination of cliffs and remoteness. It has one simple route up an easy ridge from a high col, however. Further, Timesguida and Ras are the second and third highest peaks in the Atlas. All told, it was an obvious objective after spending a second night in the Toubkal Refuge. I still tussled with various other options, however, before finally deciding to go for it after another 5am breakfast. A little earlier than yesterday leaving the refuge, so the first section was by headtorch and, as a result, I was glad of my reccie up into this valley yesterday. Heading up here in the dark, solo, was quite memorable, particularly as 90% of the other torch lights were heading up the South Cwm to Toubkal. I did overtake a large French party higher up towards the Ouanaoums Pass, however, and quite soon I had enough light to see the onward route to the obvious col of Tizi n'Ouagane higher up. This looks shallow and easy, but is actually a fair way off. The paths diverge in the flat valley base, and the route towards Ouanoukrim heads up the side of the valley, which is quite tight at this point with a fast-flowing river forming a small gorge in its base. Steep zigzags gains meadows, then a large snowfield. This was firm and enjoyable and led to the final steep climb up scree to the main col of Ouagane. Views open out to the wild valleys further south from this very distinct col: the wild Agoundis valley immediately below. The character of the onward route changes at this point, as a pinnacled ridge needs to be climbed to gain the lunar plateau above. This was very interesting and enjoyable, particularly as the day was developing into a real cracker: deep blue cloudless sky and the sun breaking over Toubkal. The low sun lit the ridge to perfection as I weaved past two weird eroded pinnacles. It then follows the crest, easy scrambling, to gain an enjoyable gully. A little traverse path avoids a steeper section to the right, then a miniature col, before more intricate route finding gains a bit more easy scrambling to the plateau. This felt a pretty special place: completely barren and most of it at around 4000m, suspended above the valleys and peaks of the High Atlas. I ploughed up to the summit of Ras, with great views to Toubkal (pleasing to see Toubkal West looking distinctive and worthwhile). From here, a short jog across to the slightly higher summit of Timesguida. Again, this felt rather 'out there': alone on a big peak with the High Atlas dropping away to the south almost immediately to low desert hills. The descent took a different looping line back to pick up a line of cairns down to the crucial ridge (not a feature you would want to miss: indeed this is not a peak or route I would contemplate in mist!). The downclimb was very simple, though, and I spied a direct scree run down to cut the corner below the Tizi n'Ouagane. From here, I made rapid downward progress down the still cold and shaded valley, intent on gaining the sunny broader valley lower down. The snowfield was still firm, and I didn't stop for a second breakfast until I reached the little meadows near the junction with the Lac d'Ifni pass. After a short break, I continued to the hut, picked up the rest of my stuff, and headed all the way down to Imlil. This was a wonderful descent in perfect weather, getting hotter with every few hundred metres of descent. A lammergeier flew over the valley as I descended, only the third time I have ever seen one (one flew a few feet above my head in Nepal). It wheeled around the North Cwm of Toubkal then flew back. Lower down, I got blue rock thrush and crimson-winged finch, among other species. By the time I reached Sidi Chamarouch, it was hot. By the time I reached the dry river valley and Aremd it was baking and airless. But I soon gained the delightful woodland between Aremd and Imlil: cool streams and walnut trees. On arrival in Imlil, I had to climb a mile or two back up the valley and through the alleyways of Tamatert to get back to Douar Samra, where I enjoyed an excellent lunch of Moroccan quiche and omelette before relaxing as the clouds gathered over the peaks for another storm that afternoon.
Area: Ouanoukrim, High Atlas, Morocco
A superb and unusual mountain, which interested me considerably more than Toubkal. Ouanoukrim has double summits, rising from a vast lunar plateau, and is well defended on all sides by a combination of cliffs and remoteness. It has one simple route up an easy ridge from a high col, however. Further, Timesguida and Ras are the second and third highest peaks in the Atlas. All told, it was an obvious objective after spending a second night in the Toubkal Refuge. I still tussled with various other options, however, before finally deciding to go for it after another 5am breakfast. A little earlier than yesterday leaving the refuge, so the first section was by headtorch and, as a result, I was glad of my reccie up into this valley yesterday. Heading up here in the dark, solo, was quite memorable, particularly as 90% of the other torch lights were heading up the South Cwm to Toubkal. I did overtake a large French party higher up towards the Ouanaoums Pass, however, and quite soon I had enough light to see the onward route to the obvious col of Tizi n'Ouagane higher up. This looks shallow and easy, but is actually a fair way off. The paths diverge in the flat valley base, and the route towards Ouanoukrim heads up the side of the valley, which is quite tight at this point with a fast-flowing river forming a small gorge in its base. Steep zigzags gains meadows, then a large snowfield. This was firm and enjoyable and led to the final steep climb up scree to the main col of Ouagane. Views open out to the wild valleys further south from this very distinct col: the wild Agoundis valley immediately below. The character of the onward route changes at this point, as a pinnacled ridge needs to be climbed to gain the lunar plateau above. This was very interesting and enjoyable, particularly as the day was developing into a real cracker: deep blue cloudless sky and the sun breaking over Toubkal. The low sun lit the ridge to perfection as I weaved past two weird eroded pinnacles. It then follows the crest, easy scrambling, to gain an enjoyable gully. A little traverse path avoids a steeper section to the right, then a miniature col, before more intricate route finding gains a bit more easy scrambling to the plateau. This felt a pretty special place: completely barren and most of it at around 4000m, suspended above the valleys and peaks of the High Atlas. I ploughed up to the summit of Ras, with great views to Toubkal (pleasing to see Toubkal West looking distinctive and worthwhile). From here, a short jog across to the slightly higher summit of Timesguida. Again, this felt rather 'out there': alone on a big peak with the High Atlas dropping away to the south almost immediately to low desert hills. The descent took a different looping line back to pick up a line of cairns down to the crucial ridge (not a feature you would want to miss: indeed this is not a peak or route I would contemplate in mist!). The downclimb was very simple, though, and I spied a direct scree run down to cut the corner below the Tizi n'Ouagane. From here, I made rapid downward progress down the still cold and shaded valley, intent on gaining the sunny broader valley lower down. The snowfield was still firm, and I didn't stop for a second breakfast until I reached the little meadows near the junction with the Lac d'Ifni pass. After a short break, I continued to the hut, picked up the rest of my stuff, and headed all the way down to Imlil. This was a wonderful descent in perfect weather, getting hotter with every few hundred metres of descent. A lammergeier flew over the valley as I descended, only the third time I have ever seen one (one flew a few feet above my head in Nepal). It wheeled around the North Cwm of Toubkal then flew back. Lower down, I got blue rock thrush and crimson-winged finch, among other species. By the time I reached Sidi Chamarouch, it was hot. By the time I reached the dry river valley and Aremd it was baking and airless. But I soon gained the delightful woodland between Aremd and Imlil: cool streams and walnut trees. On arrival in Imlil, I had to climb a mile or two back up the valley and through the alleyways of Tamatert to get back to Douar Samra, where I enjoyed an excellent lunch of Moroccan quiche and omelette before relaxing as the clouds gathered over the peaks for another storm that afternoon.
Monday, July 13, 2015
Toubkal circuit
Peaks: Jebel Toubkal (4167m/13,671ft), Toubkal West (4008m/13,149ft)
Area: Toubkal, High Atlas, Morocco
Over the years, this peak has become something of a backpackers 'thing to do' and therefore not really my cup of tea. But having said that, it is a fine and impressive mountain, the highest in North Africa, and an unavoidable objective from the Refuge du Toubkal at its foot. It's a short outing, too, and I had the idea of combining it with more peaks and/or a valley walk. Had breakfast at around 5am, and left in the half-light of early dawn, crossing the river that runs down from the Ouagouns valley to gain the bottom of the initial steep scree slopes that give access to the South Cwm proper. A few early refuseniks were already on their way down (I would guess the peak has a fairly high failure rate, given the unconventional clientele and the altitude). The scree is relatively solid, and the route weaves through giant boulder fields with the impressive walls of Toubkal West looming above. Behind, the sun lit the Clochetons ridge. The South Cwm is tight and well defined, and the slopes reasonably gentle. It opens out higher up, some snowfields, then fans out again to gain the Tizi n'Toubkal. But before I reached the Tizi (col) I branched off for a direct route to the summit. This was up shifting scree, much steeper, and led eventually to a kind of forepeak and the more impressive summit ridge. This was considerably more interesting, cliffs plunging down into the remote valleys further east. I reached the summit in 99 minutes from the refuge (just after 7am) and enjoyed a much longer than usual period of relaxation on the top. I didn't have it to myself, and the views were a little hazy with a roof of high cloud, but I really enjoyed picking out the summits and getting to grips with the range. An informative conversation with a friendly guide helped (he had a party of Germans with him and spoke six languages). I could see Imlil in the green valley far below to the north, but the most impressive peak was Ouanoukrim across the spurs and ridges to the south. This was my plan for tomorrow. The long ridges from Toubkal to Afekhoi and Dome d'Ifni also looked excellent, but not really feasible for me on this short break. To the south, hazy spurs led down to baked valleys and the distant Sahara. It was fairly cold - around 5C - but reasonably comfortable. I wandered down for a look at the North Cwm descent, thinking I might pick up the peaks above it like Imouzzer. But they were virtually indistinguishable from above, just bumps on the ridge. By contrast, Toubkal West, across the South Cwm, looked quite impressive despite the boring name, so I resolved to make a little horseshoe of the South Cwm taking in the ridge and Toubkal West before descending directly to to the snowfield in the South Cwm. This was again rather too short, but very pleasant. I took a fairly direct line down the ridge to the Tizi n'Toubkal col, then took the obvious upper traverse path towards Toubkal West. This is fairly well defined and weaves past a few little wind gaps with great views over multiple ridges towards a final scramble up the square pinnacle forming the summit of Toubkal West. This was an excellent viewpoint, directly across from Akioud and the Clochetons ridge. Ouanoukrim and its twin summits again impressed, and were now even closer, while the main Toubkal summit towered across the South Cwm. I had a second breakfast and took a direct line down to the South Cwm thereby completing a mini-horseshoe. The return to the hut was simple, and I had a little rest before deciding what to do with the rest of the day (it was only about 9.30am!). I ended up walking up towards the Tizi n'Ouanaoums, a steep and important pass linking this valley with the Lac d'Ifni and Takatert and the more remote valleys and villages to the east. This was a pleasant ramble and led to a flat and vegetation-free plain dotted with huge boulders. I even did a bit of bouldering in this wild spot, as the sun peeked through the clouds. Later, another storm (milder than the previous two days), and another fine tagine (djej mqualli - chicken with olives and preserved lemons), with a mint tea chaser. I managed to slip into an empty dormitory for more peace at the refuge later on.
Area: Toubkal, High Atlas, Morocco
Over the years, this peak has become something of a backpackers 'thing to do' and therefore not really my cup of tea. But having said that, it is a fine and impressive mountain, the highest in North Africa, and an unavoidable objective from the Refuge du Toubkal at its foot. It's a short outing, too, and I had the idea of combining it with more peaks and/or a valley walk. Had breakfast at around 5am, and left in the half-light of early dawn, crossing the river that runs down from the Ouagouns valley to gain the bottom of the initial steep scree slopes that give access to the South Cwm proper. A few early refuseniks were already on their way down (I would guess the peak has a fairly high failure rate, given the unconventional clientele and the altitude). The scree is relatively solid, and the route weaves through giant boulder fields with the impressive walls of Toubkal West looming above. Behind, the sun lit the Clochetons ridge. The South Cwm is tight and well defined, and the slopes reasonably gentle. It opens out higher up, some snowfields, then fans out again to gain the Tizi n'Toubkal. But before I reached the Tizi (col) I branched off for a direct route to the summit. This was up shifting scree, much steeper, and led eventually to a kind of forepeak and the more impressive summit ridge. This was considerably more interesting, cliffs plunging down into the remote valleys further east. I reached the summit in 99 minutes from the refuge (just after 7am) and enjoyed a much longer than usual period of relaxation on the top. I didn't have it to myself, and the views were a little hazy with a roof of high cloud, but I really enjoyed picking out the summits and getting to grips with the range. An informative conversation with a friendly guide helped (he had a party of Germans with him and spoke six languages). I could see Imlil in the green valley far below to the north, but the most impressive peak was Ouanoukrim across the spurs and ridges to the south. This was my plan for tomorrow. The long ridges from Toubkal to Afekhoi and Dome d'Ifni also looked excellent, but not really feasible for me on this short break. To the south, hazy spurs led down to baked valleys and the distant Sahara. It was fairly cold - around 5C - but reasonably comfortable. I wandered down for a look at the North Cwm descent, thinking I might pick up the peaks above it like Imouzzer. But they were virtually indistinguishable from above, just bumps on the ridge. By contrast, Toubkal West, across the South Cwm, looked quite impressive despite the boring name, so I resolved to make a little horseshoe of the South Cwm taking in the ridge and Toubkal West before descending directly to to the snowfield in the South Cwm. This was again rather too short, but very pleasant. I took a fairly direct line down the ridge to the Tizi n'Toubkal col, then took the obvious upper traverse path towards Toubkal West. This is fairly well defined and weaves past a few little wind gaps with great views over multiple ridges towards a final scramble up the square pinnacle forming the summit of Toubkal West. This was an excellent viewpoint, directly across from Akioud and the Clochetons ridge. Ouanoukrim and its twin summits again impressed, and were now even closer, while the main Toubkal summit towered across the South Cwm. I had a second breakfast and took a direct line down to the South Cwm thereby completing a mini-horseshoe. The return to the hut was simple, and I had a little rest before deciding what to do with the rest of the day (it was only about 9.30am!). I ended up walking up towards the Tizi n'Ouanaoums, a steep and important pass linking this valley with the Lac d'Ifni and Takatert and the more remote valleys and villages to the east. This was a pleasant ramble and led to a flat and vegetation-free plain dotted with huge boulders. I even did a bit of bouldering in this wild spot, as the sun peeked through the clouds. Later, another storm (milder than the previous two days), and another fine tagine (djej mqualli - chicken with olives and preserved lemons), with a mint tea chaser. I managed to slip into an empty dormitory for more peace at the refuge later on.
Sunday, July 12, 2015
Tamatert to Toubkal Refuge
I arrived in the mountain village of Tamatert in the dark on Saturday evening, during a violent electrical storm: the start of a brief trip to the High Atlas mountains of Morocco. My taxi stopped at the end of the rubble track up from Imlil (after driving from Marrakech airport, 39C even at 7pm). Heavy rain as we walked by torchlight down stony paths and alleyways, fat toads jumping around, mules braying, and found the tiny front door of my accommodation: a restored Berber douar. After a superb lamb tagine and other Moroccan specialities, all by candelight (no electricity in the house) I turned in. Next morning dawned perfectly sunny and clear: deep blue sky. After breakfast, I negotiated the alleyways of Tamatert and walked down the road to Imlil. From here, some guesswork is required to find the onward route to Aremd and the mountains. I followed old tracks past Berber houses and groves of walnut trees to a river crossing. Above this, a climb led to the superbly positioned hillside village of Aremd: on a steep slope with views up to Toubkal and beyond. Through the lower streets, all tiny alleyways and characteristic flat-topped houses, to gain the large dry river bed/floodplain at the foot of the higher peaks. Dramatic scenery ahead, with multiple spurs and side valleys leading to Toubkal dominating the view ahead: the sky still cloudless. Temperatures were hot but bearable. I had to ask several local Berbers about the onward route: none of it is marked, but it is well used by locals. Up to this point, I'd seen no foreigners at all. At a large boulder, I then made a rather embarrassing error, taking a small path above the river. This was obviously too narrow to be the main mule trail, but for some reason I persisted, thinking it might make an interesting short-cut perhaps. It soon petered out into a nightmare of mud, huge boulders and impenetrable vegetation. I tried to follow the river itself for a bit, but eventually decided I would have to seek a route up the side of the valley and hope to gain the main route. This I did, scrambling up a dry stream bed, and eventually spied a mule train higher up the valley side. I regained the main path by a shack selling drinks, so cooled down with an orange drink. The main track was far more comfortable, with spectacular backward views as colourful mule trains made their way up: beyond barren yellow hills soared upwards with a deep blue sky above. Soon, I reached the tiny settlement of Sidi Chamarouch at the junction of two valleys (Mizane and Tarharate, which cuts the steep side valley to the east). This has a white mosque hidden between massive boulders and is a sight of Islamic pilgrimage. It also has a few dusty shacks selling drinks, but due to ramadam most of the proprietors were asleep as I passed around midday. Above, the route gets much more physical: steep zigzags gain a long contouring path above the valley of the Mizane river. The path then makes a beeline up the valley, climbing all the way, with the views opening out towards Ouanoukrim (Ras) directly in front, although the Refuge du Toubkal stays hidden until the last minute. It began to cloud over, which made life a little more comfortable, although the altitude starting to kick in as I climbed towards 3000m (generally the level that I start to really feel it). It took almost three hours to reach the refuge, longer than I'd expected. I booked in and claimed a bunk, had a snack, and began to consider the feasibility of my original plan (which had been to nip up Toubkal in the afternoon). I had plenty of time and energy, but the obvious problem was the weather. It had clouded over, there was a hint of rain in the air, and a strong hint of an afternoon storm. Still, I had plenty of time to kill so thought I would at least reccie the route. This was pleasant, a little walk up to the river crossing, then up the initial steep zigzags leading in to the South Cwm (Ikhibi Sud). I was just beginning to think I might break into a run and continue all the way up to the summit when a loud clap of thunder sent me scurrying back to the hut for a mint tea (and later, a fine chicken tagine with carrot soup and melon).
Sunday, July 05, 2015
Fairy Freckled Cow trail race
Race: Freckled Cow/Llyn Alwen trail race (11k)
Time/Position: 43.16 (6th from 119)
After struggling for a few months, it was a relief to feel reasonably fit today. I finished 6th, exactly the same position as when I last did this excellent race two years ago, albeit 14 seconds slower. Much more important, though, I actually enjoyed myself for a change and didn't fall to pieces half way round. Two years ago, several runners ended up in the recovery position with heat stroke - it was one of the hottest Welsh races I can remember. Today, intermittent sunshine was very pleasant on the outward leg along the eastern shore of the lake to the wild terrain on the edge of Hiraethog where you cross the lake at a small bridge and negotiate a very sharp climb to gain an exposed moor which leads down to more fire tracks and fast, undulating running to the finish. Very little of the race is actually flat, but the hills are never very long. It gives a great session: and some very heavy rain later on in the race helped cool us all down today.
Time/Position: 43.16 (6th from 119)
After struggling for a few months, it was a relief to feel reasonably fit today. I finished 6th, exactly the same position as when I last did this excellent race two years ago, albeit 14 seconds slower. Much more important, though, I actually enjoyed myself for a change and didn't fall to pieces half way round. Two years ago, several runners ended up in the recovery position with heat stroke - it was one of the hottest Welsh races I can remember. Today, intermittent sunshine was very pleasant on the outward leg along the eastern shore of the lake to the wild terrain on the edge of Hiraethog where you cross the lake at a small bridge and negotiate a very sharp climb to gain an exposed moor which leads down to more fire tracks and fast, undulating running to the finish. Very little of the race is actually flat, but the hills are never very long. It gives a great session: and some very heavy rain later on in the race helped cool us all down today.
Tuesday, June 30, 2015
Pen Trwyn climbing
Crag: Pen Trwyn, Llandudno
Routes: Green Flash (f5+:led), Planned Obsolescence (f6a+:led), Mumbo Jumbo (f6a+:led), Mumbo Jumbo variant (f6a+:sec), Tears as Souvenirs Direct (f6b:sec)
This is not a crag I've visited often over the years: too hard and steep for me. I have done a few routes here and there since the late 80s, but generally come away tired and demoralised. Today was only a slight exception to that rule, although I do feel a tad stronger at present, and we did get at least get a few routes done before the inevitable pump. Green Flash may be the worst route on the Orme, and is not a great warm-up. It heads rightwards over two small overhangs on big but polished holds: short and steep. We moved round to the Mumbo Jumbo area above the bouldering caves, and I led the newly bolted f6a+ line on the far left. This is short, and loose in places, but a better warm up, with a tricky initial move followed by easier climbing. Overgraded - probably 5+ or 6a. Mumbo Jumbo itself is an excellent line, an old E2 5c, now retrobolted, which cunningly weaves round to circumvent some large overhangs. A high first clip is gained after a steep but easy start, then steeper moves gain the orange slab at mid-height. Here the rock changes from soapy and slippery to quite rough pocketed limestone. A traverse right below a small roof leads to the first crux: steeply round the overlap with a pinch-grip. The route then stays steep. I clipped the bolt above the final roof with difficulty, then tried a version of the direct finish at 6b+: using the obvious chalked hold in a very draining position. It didn't really work, and Hayley later did a superb job of unlocking the indirect solution to the final move at 6a+. It goes much further left, then uses small footholds to reach arete holds which allow the roof to be circumvented. Good climb: we did it twice. We then bouldered out the bottom few crux moves of Tears as Souvenirs, a grade harder. Very soapy rock, especially in these hot conditions (beautiful day, 30C, so glad of the shade). This was energy sapping, not clean, and a bit of a battle. In retrospect, not such a good idea after two ascents of Mumbo Jumbo. It meant that we had very little forearm power for the harder routes we tried in the Deep Fix area overlooking the deep blue sea. Stunning conditions though, so we walked down to inspect the Sticky Mix wall above the sea. Clear blue sky, flat calm sea, orange rock: we could have been in the Costa Blanca, or Thailand.
Routes: Green Flash (f5+:led), Planned Obsolescence (f6a+:led), Mumbo Jumbo (f6a+:led), Mumbo Jumbo variant (f6a+:sec), Tears as Souvenirs Direct (f6b:sec)
This is not a crag I've visited often over the years: too hard and steep for me. I have done a few routes here and there since the late 80s, but generally come away tired and demoralised. Today was only a slight exception to that rule, although I do feel a tad stronger at present, and we did get at least get a few routes done before the inevitable pump. Green Flash may be the worst route on the Orme, and is not a great warm-up. It heads rightwards over two small overhangs on big but polished holds: short and steep. We moved round to the Mumbo Jumbo area above the bouldering caves, and I led the newly bolted f6a+ line on the far left. This is short, and loose in places, but a better warm up, with a tricky initial move followed by easier climbing. Overgraded - probably 5+ or 6a. Mumbo Jumbo itself is an excellent line, an old E2 5c, now retrobolted, which cunningly weaves round to circumvent some large overhangs. A high first clip is gained after a steep but easy start, then steeper moves gain the orange slab at mid-height. Here the rock changes from soapy and slippery to quite rough pocketed limestone. A traverse right below a small roof leads to the first crux: steeply round the overlap with a pinch-grip. The route then stays steep. I clipped the bolt above the final roof with difficulty, then tried a version of the direct finish at 6b+: using the obvious chalked hold in a very draining position. It didn't really work, and Hayley later did a superb job of unlocking the indirect solution to the final move at 6a+. It goes much further left, then uses small footholds to reach arete holds which allow the roof to be circumvented. Good climb: we did it twice. We then bouldered out the bottom few crux moves of Tears as Souvenirs, a grade harder. Very soapy rock, especially in these hot conditions (beautiful day, 30C, so glad of the shade). This was energy sapping, not clean, and a bit of a battle. In retrospect, not such a good idea after two ascents of Mumbo Jumbo. It meant that we had very little forearm power for the harder routes we tried in the Deep Fix area overlooking the deep blue sea. Stunning conditions though, so we walked down to inspect the Sticky Mix wall above the sea. Clear blue sky, flat calm sea, orange rock: we could have been in the Costa Blanca, or Thailand.
Sunday, June 28, 2015
Moel y Gamelin fell race
Race: Moel y Gamelin (10m/2000ft/AM)
Time/Position: 1.23.31 (9th from 49 [2nd V45])
Yet another race where I struggled to maintain any kind of pace and did not enjoy myself. Not bothered about getting slower, but would like to enjoy myself on races again - still waiting for a decent performance in 2015! I felt OK as we climbed Moel y Faen, and in the past I've paced this race quite well. But today I think I used too much energy just keeping a decent pace going over the summits of Gamelin and Morfydd in a strong headwind. A heavy shower made for bracing progress over the final summit, and stayed with us on the long descent over Bwlch y Groes and out over the lonely terrain further west. This long XC section is where I've managed to pick the pace up in the past, but today I just lost energy again and blew (yet again) on the gentle incline back towards the ridge. Then really suffered for the main climb back up the Conquering Hero bridleway to regain the ridge. I crawled back over Gamelin, losing three places as stronger finishers went past. I did get a second wind back over Moel y Faen but the damage was already done.
Time/Position: 1.23.31 (9th from 49 [2nd V45])
Yet another race where I struggled to maintain any kind of pace and did not enjoy myself. Not bothered about getting slower, but would like to enjoy myself on races again - still waiting for a decent performance in 2015! I felt OK as we climbed Moel y Faen, and in the past I've paced this race quite well. But today I think I used too much energy just keeping a decent pace going over the summits of Gamelin and Morfydd in a strong headwind. A heavy shower made for bracing progress over the final summit, and stayed with us on the long descent over Bwlch y Groes and out over the lonely terrain further west. This long XC section is where I've managed to pick the pace up in the past, but today I just lost energy again and blew (yet again) on the gentle incline back towards the ridge. Then really suffered for the main climb back up the Conquering Hero bridleway to regain the ridge. I crawled back over Gamelin, losing three places as stronger finishers went past. I did get a second wind back over Moel y Faen but the damage was already done.
Wednesday, June 24, 2015
Maeshafn climbing
Crag: Maeshafn
Routes: Rambler (HS 4a:led), Wilkinson Sword Edge (VS 4b:led), The Minstrel (E1 5b:sec), Puppy Power (VS 4b:led), Flying Block (E1 5a:sec), Sling (HS 4a:led)
A heavy shower swept in just as we were gearing up at the base of the crag. So I changed plans rapidly and nipped up the easy (and overgraded) Rambler in the rain. I've been visiting this crag since 1988, so then deployed some local knowledge and sneaked off to the sheltered Wilkinson Sword Edge as the rain continued and black clouds swept in over Moel Famau. This route is hidden in the trees, and takes a vague arete of very rough limestone. One tricky steep move up to a huge jug at the start, then easy climbing up a nice flake: shame it's so short! The rain eased a little, so we did the classic E1 line of the Minstrel with rope above: rather polished now. The crag dries quickly, quicker than rock boots, so I led the now dry slab taken by Puppy Power in wet shoes. An intermittent line of thin cracks: nice climbing. I've done all these routes many times before, but it was a good choice today in this weather. Flying Block is a bit of a sandbag: E1 5c would be a more accurate grade. Indeed, a curious feature of Maeshafn is that the easier routes tend to be soft touches, while anything above HVS often seems undergraded. Flying Block has a very hard move after about 10ft, particularly in damp conditions. Very little for the feet, smooth and slippery, and a hard pull over a flake. Above, you are in balance and some nice moves lead less steeply to the top. Hayley and I both failed on the even harder Royal Plume: also polished and greasy, felt at least E2/3 6a. All this hadn't taken long (a short evening visit), and the weather was now clearing completely, so we nipped round to the Amphitheatre for the polished crack line of Sling, which I have done many, many times over the years. I was now fading fast, beginning to feel the after-effects of a 12 mile run over Hope Mountain and Pen Llan y Gwr first thing this morning!
Routes: Rambler (HS 4a:led), Wilkinson Sword Edge (VS 4b:led), The Minstrel (E1 5b:sec), Puppy Power (VS 4b:led), Flying Block (E1 5a:sec), Sling (HS 4a:led)
A heavy shower swept in just as we were gearing up at the base of the crag. So I changed plans rapidly and nipped up the easy (and overgraded) Rambler in the rain. I've been visiting this crag since 1988, so then deployed some local knowledge and sneaked off to the sheltered Wilkinson Sword Edge as the rain continued and black clouds swept in over Moel Famau. This route is hidden in the trees, and takes a vague arete of very rough limestone. One tricky steep move up to a huge jug at the start, then easy climbing up a nice flake: shame it's so short! The rain eased a little, so we did the classic E1 line of the Minstrel with rope above: rather polished now. The crag dries quickly, quicker than rock boots, so I led the now dry slab taken by Puppy Power in wet shoes. An intermittent line of thin cracks: nice climbing. I've done all these routes many times before, but it was a good choice today in this weather. Flying Block is a bit of a sandbag: E1 5c would be a more accurate grade. Indeed, a curious feature of Maeshafn is that the easier routes tend to be soft touches, while anything above HVS often seems undergraded. Flying Block has a very hard move after about 10ft, particularly in damp conditions. Very little for the feet, smooth and slippery, and a hard pull over a flake. Above, you are in balance and some nice moves lead less steeply to the top. Hayley and I both failed on the even harder Royal Plume: also polished and greasy, felt at least E2/3 6a. All this hadn't taken long (a short evening visit), and the weather was now clearing completely, so we nipped round to the Amphitheatre for the polished crack line of Sling, which I have done many, many times over the years. I was now fading fast, beginning to feel the after-effects of a 12 mile run over Hope Mountain and Pen Llan y Gwr first thing this morning!
Tuesday, June 23, 2015
Idwal run
A light mist was hanging just above Llyn y Cwn as I fired up the stove for a horribly early cup of coffee. The tent was down and my bag packed by 5am, as I had to get back home in time to see the kids off to school, and get to the office! I jogged down the path and emerged from the mist as I dropped down to Twll Ddu. From the shores of Llyn Idwal, the mist peeled away from the upper cliff of Glyder Fawr, reflected in the lake. A cloud inversion seemed likely on the ridge, but I had a range of different commitments: it was with some regret that I continued running back to Ogwen cottage and the car. Home by 7am!
Monday, June 22, 2015
Glyderau run and wild camp
Peak: Y Garn
Area: Glyderau, Eryri
An impromptu decision to indulge in a solo wild camp, as close to the summer solstice as was feasible. The day had dawned wet, windy and quite cold, but was starting to clear by the time I left work. After some bouldering (below) there was still a disappointing amount of black cloud around as I started to jog up the Idwal path from Ogwen Cottage at around 6.30pm, but there were signs that it might clear a bit. I made good progress past the slabs and Twll Ddu, and had the entire range to myself, as I'd hoped, as I gained the plateau between Y Garn and Glyder Fawr. I pitched on a perfect flat spot right next to the shore of Llyn y Cwn: a delightful site. I then jogged up Y Garn: sadly rather cold and cloudy, with a hint of drizzle in the air. A few clearances over the Llyn peninsula and the Irish Sea, shafts of sunlight. I went back for my rather spartan evening meal: some pasta on the stove, and a couple of mugs of tea, it was indeed an impromptu camp! I then ambled up to some scrambling on the steeper spurs coming down from Glyder Fawr as the weather started to clear around 9pm. Quite quickly, most of the cloud melted away and I sat in the sunshine near the summit plateau of Glyder Fawr relaxing and looking down to my tent near the lake. A few midges, but nothing too serious, and the temperature dropped as the sky turned lilac. I retired to the sound of grey wagtails and meadow pipits, and read the Sunday paper in bed before dozing off.
Area: Glyderau, Eryri
An impromptu decision to indulge in a solo wild camp, as close to the summer solstice as was feasible. The day had dawned wet, windy and quite cold, but was starting to clear by the time I left work. After some bouldering (below) there was still a disappointing amount of black cloud around as I started to jog up the Idwal path from Ogwen Cottage at around 6.30pm, but there were signs that it might clear a bit. I made good progress past the slabs and Twll Ddu, and had the entire range to myself, as I'd hoped, as I gained the plateau between Y Garn and Glyder Fawr. I pitched on a perfect flat spot right next to the shore of Llyn y Cwn: a delightful site. I then jogged up Y Garn: sadly rather cold and cloudy, with a hint of drizzle in the air. A few clearances over the Llyn peninsula and the Irish Sea, shafts of sunlight. I went back for my rather spartan evening meal: some pasta on the stove, and a couple of mugs of tea, it was indeed an impromptu camp! I then ambled up to some scrambling on the steeper spurs coming down from Glyder Fawr as the weather started to clear around 9pm. Quite quickly, most of the cloud melted away and I sat in the sunshine near the summit plateau of Glyder Fawr relaxing and looking down to my tent near the lake. A few midges, but nothing too serious, and the temperature dropped as the sky turned lilac. I retired to the sound of grey wagtails and meadow pipits, and read the Sunday paper in bed before dozing off.
Dyffryn Mymbyr bouldering
A quick evening bouldering session before running up to Llyn y Cwn for an impromptu solstice wild camp. I've been here a few times before, always finding the problems quite hard and polished. They were also rather greasy today, after morning rain. I did all the slabby routes first, then the left-hand version of the RAC arete: rather precarious with a polished start. Backside arete is very easy, but pleasant: more like a miniature VS than a boulder problem. Then some particularly enjoyable lines: the V0+ which moves up and right into a hanging groove is steep, positive and quite exciting. Another route at the same grade goes up the steep wall further right via a series of powerful moves on small but positive holds. At the end of the slabby boulder, I did the overhanging arete and the awkward traverse before heading round to Ogwen for the run up to my intended campsite at Llyn y Cwn.
Saturday, June 20, 2015
Cwm Pennant Horseshoe fell race
Race: Ras Pedol Cwm Pennant (17m/5600ft/AL)
Peaks: Moel Hebog, Moel yr Ogof, Moel Lefn, Trum y Ddisgyl, Mynydd Tal y Mignedd, Craig Cwm Silyn, Garnedd Goch
Time/Position: 3.19.32 (11th from 36)
The cloudbase was almost down to the valley floor as we set off from a humid Bryncir at the base of this famous and beautiful valley. The field in such conditions was inevitably going to be fairly small: as it clashed with other events, and it was clear that navigation would be a challenge almost from the outset. Peter, Andy and I were looking forward to it. Last year, I had a reasonable run and thought it was a superb new race over some of my favourite hills: finishing just after Simon E in 8th place, well under three hours. A repeat was never likely this year, so I just adopted a steady striding pace up Moel Hebog in thick and humid mist. This was OK, and I found myself running with Noel from Eryri, same as last year, as we descended towards Moel yr Ogof in steady rain and very poor visibility. We followed the wall than ploughed up through the cleft in the rock to the checkpoint on top of the rocky summit of Moel yr Ogof. It was even harder to find the checkpoint on Moel Lefn, and we initially went past it - doubling back for the climb up to the summit. A much bigger error followed, however, as I drifted too far right on a bearing north, descending the wrong side of a spur. As often happens, a small error turned into a big one and we found ourselves well off course, too far east. A giant dogleg ensued (at least the error was quickly obvious) and a wall bisecting the ridge acted as a handrail to gain the path through the quarries to eventually gain Bwlch y Ddwy Elor: visibility dreadful throughout. We'd lost a lot of time, and Andy soon appeared having taken the direct route down from Lefn. He shot up the misty Trum y Ddisgyl to gain the main Nantlle ridge and it was as much as I could do to keep up initially. The highlight of the route comes next: the narrow and sometimes rocky ridge across to Tal y Mignedd. A spectacular clearance gave views down to Nantlle as the mist peeled away from one half of the ridge. Andy and I were equally matched over this section and took a direct scrambling line through the rocks. I went too far right last year from Craig Cwm Silyn, so we careful to stay left and pick up the main path to Garnedd Goch. It was nice to be moving at speed after losing so much time on the descent from Moel Lefn. The descent down Cwm Ciprwth is one of the hardest on any race: a blend of hidden rocks, tussocks and deep heather. No paths until you emerge at the checkpoint at the base of the cwm. From here I pushed on a little and felt quite good on the long road run in: although as I was a full 25 minutes slower than last year, it should have felt fairly comfortable. Wonderful race again.
Peaks: Moel Hebog, Moel yr Ogof, Moel Lefn, Trum y Ddisgyl, Mynydd Tal y Mignedd, Craig Cwm Silyn, Garnedd Goch
Time/Position: 3.19.32 (11th from 36)
The cloudbase was almost down to the valley floor as we set off from a humid Bryncir at the base of this famous and beautiful valley. The field in such conditions was inevitably going to be fairly small: as it clashed with other events, and it was clear that navigation would be a challenge almost from the outset. Peter, Andy and I were looking forward to it. Last year, I had a reasonable run and thought it was a superb new race over some of my favourite hills: finishing just after Simon E in 8th place, well under three hours. A repeat was never likely this year, so I just adopted a steady striding pace up Moel Hebog in thick and humid mist. This was OK, and I found myself running with Noel from Eryri, same as last year, as we descended towards Moel yr Ogof in steady rain and very poor visibility. We followed the wall than ploughed up through the cleft in the rock to the checkpoint on top of the rocky summit of Moel yr Ogof. It was even harder to find the checkpoint on Moel Lefn, and we initially went past it - doubling back for the climb up to the summit. A much bigger error followed, however, as I drifted too far right on a bearing north, descending the wrong side of a spur. As often happens, a small error turned into a big one and we found ourselves well off course, too far east. A giant dogleg ensued (at least the error was quickly obvious) and a wall bisecting the ridge acted as a handrail to gain the path through the quarries to eventually gain Bwlch y Ddwy Elor: visibility dreadful throughout. We'd lost a lot of time, and Andy soon appeared having taken the direct route down from Lefn. He shot up the misty Trum y Ddisgyl to gain the main Nantlle ridge and it was as much as I could do to keep up initially. The highlight of the route comes next: the narrow and sometimes rocky ridge across to Tal y Mignedd. A spectacular clearance gave views down to Nantlle as the mist peeled away from one half of the ridge. Andy and I were equally matched over this section and took a direct scrambling line through the rocks. I went too far right last year from Craig Cwm Silyn, so we careful to stay left and pick up the main path to Garnedd Goch. It was nice to be moving at speed after losing so much time on the descent from Moel Lefn. The descent down Cwm Ciprwth is one of the hardest on any race: a blend of hidden rocks, tussocks and deep heather. No paths until you emerge at the checkpoint at the base of the cwm. From here I pushed on a little and felt quite good on the long road run in: although as I was a full 25 minutes slower than last year, it should have felt fairly comfortable. Wonderful race again.
Saturday, June 13, 2015
Man v Horse
Race: Man v Horse Marathon (22m/4000ft)
Time/Position: 3.18.31 (82nd from 657)
This is another one of those classic events missing from my 'CV', but as with the Yorkshire Three Peaks in April I did not cover myself in glory today: just didn't have sufficient mileage in my legs to keep it going towards the end. In fact, the wheels fell off in time-honoured fashion when I still had five (rather distressing) miles to go. Light drizzle as Jez and I waited in Llanwrtyd Wells for the start: my first time here since doing the almost equally legendary Real Ale Wobble mountain bike loop 12 or so years ago. The rain stayed fairly light, but fell continuously all day. As a result, we kept cool but it was very boggy underfoot at times. A nice atmosphere as we left the Neuadd Arms and headed up the Irfon valley. The route is very complex and very varied, but is essentially a giant loop around the valley taking in some fairly wild mountain terrain at times. A sharp climb up a track after a couple of miles set the scene. It was followed by some narrow, boggy tracks high up on the eastern slopes of the valley. I felt pretty good, and went through the first checkpoint well up the field in just over 50 minutes. I was passed by two horses on a long inclining track, but didn't see any more until high up in the hills near Abergwesyn. I continued to feel pretty good through the second checkpoint, and although horses and relay runners were mixed up with the 500 or so doing the full distance, I felt I was well up the field at this point. However, with about five miles to go the distance and difficulty of the terrain began to take its toll: as did my old bugbear, an upset stomach. I hadn't had time to get my usual running food, so forced down a sesame bar which repeated on me very quickly. This reduced me to a walk on an interminable series of forest tracks where I really suffered. From here, it was all downhill - metaphorically if not always literally. Scores of runners, and horses, passed me towards the end, which was rather demoralising. The last couple of miles, through bog, then tarmac, then a deep river crossing, were not very pleasant and reminded me of the way I felt in my early marathons and early attempts at long fell races more than a decade ago.
Time/Position: 3.18.31 (82nd from 657)
This is another one of those classic events missing from my 'CV', but as with the Yorkshire Three Peaks in April I did not cover myself in glory today: just didn't have sufficient mileage in my legs to keep it going towards the end. In fact, the wheels fell off in time-honoured fashion when I still had five (rather distressing) miles to go. Light drizzle as Jez and I waited in Llanwrtyd Wells for the start: my first time here since doing the almost equally legendary Real Ale Wobble mountain bike loop 12 or so years ago. The rain stayed fairly light, but fell continuously all day. As a result, we kept cool but it was very boggy underfoot at times. A nice atmosphere as we left the Neuadd Arms and headed up the Irfon valley. The route is very complex and very varied, but is essentially a giant loop around the valley taking in some fairly wild mountain terrain at times. A sharp climb up a track after a couple of miles set the scene. It was followed by some narrow, boggy tracks high up on the eastern slopes of the valley. I felt pretty good, and went through the first checkpoint well up the field in just over 50 minutes. I was passed by two horses on a long inclining track, but didn't see any more until high up in the hills near Abergwesyn. I continued to feel pretty good through the second checkpoint, and although horses and relay runners were mixed up with the 500 or so doing the full distance, I felt I was well up the field at this point. However, with about five miles to go the distance and difficulty of the terrain began to take its toll: as did my old bugbear, an upset stomach. I hadn't had time to get my usual running food, so forced down a sesame bar which repeated on me very quickly. This reduced me to a walk on an interminable series of forest tracks where I really suffered. From here, it was all downhill - metaphorically if not always literally. Scores of runners, and horses, passed me towards the end, which was rather demoralising. The last couple of miles, through bog, then tarmac, then a deep river crossing, were not very pleasant and reminded me of the way I felt in my early marathons and early attempts at long fell races more than a decade ago.
Thursday, June 11, 2015
Craig y Forwyn climbing
Crag: Craig y Forwyn
Routes: Anne (S 4a:led), Larks a Bumbly (HS 4b:led), Kiwi (VS 4b:sec), Arian (HS 4b:led), Arian Direct (HVS 5a:sec), Wall/Superdirect Finish (E1 5b:sec), Golden Gate (D:led)
The 'banned crag' which has always had a kind of mythical status in my mind: my local crag in many ways, but the supposed 'landowner' withdrew consent just before I started climbing in the late 1980s. Vic and I went there five years ago, after it was realised that only part of the crag was 'owned' by the awkward landlord, only to be shouted down from the classic HVS Sangfroid, on what we understood to be a legal part of the cliff by a quite unbelievably unpleasant individual (presumably the chap that claims to own the central section). It was so unpleasant that it's taken us five years to come back, this time to the left-hand section which, again, is not owned by the uncivil one. We had no problems today, which was just a brief taster of the short but enjoyable routes that characterise this section of cliff. Anne was a vegetated and slabby aperitif, up a narrow pillar of rock. We then both led the splendid corner/groove taken by Larks a Bumbly. This looks hard and very steep from below, somewhat reminiscent of Striptease at Tremadog. In reality, it's just a delightfully simple romp. Well protected moves up a superbly juggy, but steep, corner, lead to more jugs and a perfect footledge to sidle left away from the final overhang, to finish up a short arete. Great route, as was its companion Kiwi, a mild VS to its right. Again, this looks like it has an intimidating finish, but this is an illusion. A rising traverse left, below the bulges on big footholds, leads to a move to circumvent the steepness, then a finish trending back right up a steep exit on big holds. Really nice, interesting climbing at the bottom of the grade. Arian is the other classic on this section of crag: rather more polished than the others but again recently cleaned, giving really good climbing. Another interesting line too, up a steep right-trending juggy flake which begs to be climbed. Then a step left gains a short traverse, giving access to a clean groove which leads to the top. Again, solid and varied: no more than 20m, but packing a lot in to a small space! Vic then led the Direct version, which is steep and sustained up to the roof, which needs a butch move to overcome. Inferior to the normal route, I found it quite dusty and unpleasant. I continued up the more technical, nicely contrasting Wall Finish, using the left arete: the sunshine quite hot now, perhaps the hottest day of summer so far. From the crag top, great views over the most tranquil of valleys, very quiet indeed, with the rocks of Llanddulas further left. I had to finish early, so after abbing back down for fifth time, we donned our big sacs and I led out up a pleasant Diff, taking the outside of an obvious chimney, by way of a mountaineering exit route. Nice to sample another tiny slice of the climbing at this crag. It has always felt political to me, and still does: one day we will get access to the real classics!
Routes: Anne (S 4a:led), Larks a Bumbly (HS 4b:led), Kiwi (VS 4b:sec), Arian (HS 4b:led), Arian Direct (HVS 5a:sec), Wall/Superdirect Finish (E1 5b:sec), Golden Gate (D:led)
The 'banned crag' which has always had a kind of mythical status in my mind: my local crag in many ways, but the supposed 'landowner' withdrew consent just before I started climbing in the late 1980s. Vic and I went there five years ago, after it was realised that only part of the crag was 'owned' by the awkward landlord, only to be shouted down from the classic HVS Sangfroid, on what we understood to be a legal part of the cliff by a quite unbelievably unpleasant individual (presumably the chap that claims to own the central section). It was so unpleasant that it's taken us five years to come back, this time to the left-hand section which, again, is not owned by the uncivil one. We had no problems today, which was just a brief taster of the short but enjoyable routes that characterise this section of cliff. Anne was a vegetated and slabby aperitif, up a narrow pillar of rock. We then both led the splendid corner/groove taken by Larks a Bumbly. This looks hard and very steep from below, somewhat reminiscent of Striptease at Tremadog. In reality, it's just a delightfully simple romp. Well protected moves up a superbly juggy, but steep, corner, lead to more jugs and a perfect footledge to sidle left away from the final overhang, to finish up a short arete. Great route, as was its companion Kiwi, a mild VS to its right. Again, this looks like it has an intimidating finish, but this is an illusion. A rising traverse left, below the bulges on big footholds, leads to a move to circumvent the steepness, then a finish trending back right up a steep exit on big holds. Really nice, interesting climbing at the bottom of the grade. Arian is the other classic on this section of crag: rather more polished than the others but again recently cleaned, giving really good climbing. Another interesting line too, up a steep right-trending juggy flake which begs to be climbed. Then a step left gains a short traverse, giving access to a clean groove which leads to the top. Again, solid and varied: no more than 20m, but packing a lot in to a small space! Vic then led the Direct version, which is steep and sustained up to the roof, which needs a butch move to overcome. Inferior to the normal route, I found it quite dusty and unpleasant. I continued up the more technical, nicely contrasting Wall Finish, using the left arete: the sunshine quite hot now, perhaps the hottest day of summer so far. From the crag top, great views over the most tranquil of valleys, very quiet indeed, with the rocks of Llanddulas further left. I had to finish early, so after abbing back down for fifth time, we donned our big sacs and I led out up a pleasant Diff, taking the outside of an obvious chimney, by way of a mountaineering exit route. Nice to sample another tiny slice of the climbing at this crag. It has always felt political to me, and still does: one day we will get access to the real classics!
Wednesday, June 10, 2015
The Beast
Race: Up the Beast fell race (4.5m/1500ft)
Time/Position: 48.01 (11th from 94)
I've done every one of these races (eight in total) and this is the first time I've finished outside the top ten. I was third overall not so long ago, but can't see that ever happening again. This is partly because I'm getting slower, but partly because I'm convinced everybody else is getting quicker! I was around a minute down on my best time tonight, although slightly quicker than last year: so not too bad given it was my first short fell race since Rhobell Fawr in November. As a result, recent road races made the early tracks through the woods quite comfortable, but the steep climb up the beast reduced me to a striding walk much earlier than previous years. It was a hot, quite humid evening, and the second climb back up Bryn Alyn is always desperately airless and sweaty. I saved some energy over Bryn Alyn in warm sunshine, then I did start to make up a few places, and finished reasonably strongly on the return through the woods.
Time/Position: 48.01 (11th from 94)
I've done every one of these races (eight in total) and this is the first time I've finished outside the top ten. I was third overall not so long ago, but can't see that ever happening again. This is partly because I'm getting slower, but partly because I'm convinced everybody else is getting quicker! I was around a minute down on my best time tonight, although slightly quicker than last year: so not too bad given it was my first short fell race since Rhobell Fawr in November. As a result, recent road races made the early tracks through the woods quite comfortable, but the steep climb up the beast reduced me to a striding walk much earlier than previous years. It was a hot, quite humid evening, and the second climb back up Bryn Alyn is always desperately airless and sweaty. I saved some energy over Bryn Alyn in warm sunshine, then I did start to make up a few places, and finished reasonably strongly on the return through the woods.
Tuesday, June 09, 2015
Holmfirth bouldering
Crag: Holmfirth Cliff
Routes: Arsenic Slab (font3), Devs (V0), Scarface (V0), Bumbachum (V1), Crimp and Pop (font4), Riblet (font5), Left Crack (font3), Right Crack (font3), Problem 11 (font5+), Spiders (font5+), Crystal Crack (font4), Man Utd Arete (font4), Cock Over (font5+), Pocket Wall (V2), Fist-Sized Crack (font3).
Never my favourite discipline, the idea of recording short boulder problems has always struck me as slightly absurd. A few things were different here, however: first, the problems felt more like miniature routes at times; second, many of them were relatively easy; third, I really enjoyed this crag of quarried grit above the famous town of Holmfirth. It was particularly nice to get some fresh air after a day confined to one room in Huddersfield. Some sun peeking through the clouds and nice views out over town and valley as I located and climbed the four short problems on the left-hand slab. Quite delicate, particularly Bumbachum up the featureless middle of the slab. Really enjoyed going up and down the two easy crack lines further right, which felt like miniature grit Severes and warranted several ascents. The line up the middle was a more technical font 5+ on small flat holds, as was the thought-provoking Spiders, which took thin cracks up a greener wall up to a flat hold then escaped left. The routes further right were quite high, particularly Crystal Crack which was a good strong line but surprisingly dirty and vegetated. Further right again, I did numerous routes, including the high but easy Man Utd Arete, the short and intense Over Cock at font 5+, and the more delicate Pocket Wall, which was a good technical route up a pocketed black wall of friable grit but seemed a little overgraded. Various other routes too, but less obvious lines, and it was difficult to remember them all.
Routes: Arsenic Slab (font3), Devs (V0), Scarface (V0), Bumbachum (V1), Crimp and Pop (font4), Riblet (font5), Left Crack (font3), Right Crack (font3), Problem 11 (font5+), Spiders (font5+), Crystal Crack (font4), Man Utd Arete (font4), Cock Over (font5+), Pocket Wall (V2), Fist-Sized Crack (font3).
Never my favourite discipline, the idea of recording short boulder problems has always struck me as slightly absurd. A few things were different here, however: first, the problems felt more like miniature routes at times; second, many of them were relatively easy; third, I really enjoyed this crag of quarried grit above the famous town of Holmfirth. It was particularly nice to get some fresh air after a day confined to one room in Huddersfield. Some sun peeking through the clouds and nice views out over town and valley as I located and climbed the four short problems on the left-hand slab. Quite delicate, particularly Bumbachum up the featureless middle of the slab. Really enjoyed going up and down the two easy crack lines further right, which felt like miniature grit Severes and warranted several ascents. The line up the middle was a more technical font 5+ on small flat holds, as was the thought-provoking Spiders, which took thin cracks up a greener wall up to a flat hold then escaped left. The routes further right were quite high, particularly Crystal Crack which was a good strong line but surprisingly dirty and vegetated. Further right again, I did numerous routes, including the high but easy Man Utd Arete, the short and intense Over Cock at font 5+, and the more delicate Pocket Wall, which was a good technical route up a pocketed black wall of friable grit but seemed a little overgraded. Various other routes too, but less obvious lines, and it was difficult to remember them all.
Monday, June 08, 2015
Trevor climbing
Crag: Trevor Rocks, Eglwyseg
Routes: Borderline (f6a+:led), Over the Wall (f6a:sec), Checkpoint Charlie (f6b:sec), The Great Escape (f6a:led), Lost Control (f6b:sec), The Fat Controller (S 4a:led)
Almost all these routes feel quite tough for the grade, very tough in some cases, in stark contrast to some of the newly bolted limestone on the coast. The Compact Wall at Trevor is by far the best section of what is a rather scrappy crag, so I went straight for Borderline, a semi-classic on the left of the wall which I have top-roped in the past. It's a very good route, technical and sustained when leading, but with decent rests: it keeps coming at you right up to a second crux at the top. Lovely moves on small positive holds, in delightful warm evening sunshine, lead to a puzzling section at mid-height. I was tempted left by a chalked-up flat hold, but actually the solution lies further to the right. I weighted the bolt for a second as I made the alteration: annoying. Moving right gains a vague groove and easier climbing up to a steep and equally puzzling finish on unhelpful fingery pockets and pinches. I failed on the 6c Margin of Error. Indeed, many of the routes further right are characterised by hideous starts: really hard lower sections, rather desperate for a few moves, but all are well bolted. Before we tried the other routes over 6b, Hayley led the very pleasant Over the Wall, a rising traverse line at a soft 6a which I've done several times before. With rope above, we both did Checkpoint Charlie. This is very technical low down, with only tiny usable footholds and fingery, sustained climbing. One or two finger holds at times: probably 6b+ or borderline 6c as a route. It gets easier towards the top, however. My next lead, the Great Escape, is the exact opposite. An easy start followed by a bulging crux right at the top, which I think I took too far left. Next, we did Lost Control, another f6b, with rope above. This is similar to Checkpoint Charlie, a really hard start using a sidepull with very little for the feet. This is similarly intense but eases more quickly. After all this technicality, we sidled off to the little trad wall further right. I led an easy Severe, done before, up a deep juggy groove and little roof, as the sun set beautifully over the Horseshoe Pass and the temperature dropped quite dramatically.
Routes: Borderline (f6a+:led), Over the Wall (f6a:sec), Checkpoint Charlie (f6b:sec), The Great Escape (f6a:led), Lost Control (f6b:sec), The Fat Controller (S 4a:led)
Almost all these routes feel quite tough for the grade, very tough in some cases, in stark contrast to some of the newly bolted limestone on the coast. The Compact Wall at Trevor is by far the best section of what is a rather scrappy crag, so I went straight for Borderline, a semi-classic on the left of the wall which I have top-roped in the past. It's a very good route, technical and sustained when leading, but with decent rests: it keeps coming at you right up to a second crux at the top. Lovely moves on small positive holds, in delightful warm evening sunshine, lead to a puzzling section at mid-height. I was tempted left by a chalked-up flat hold, but actually the solution lies further to the right. I weighted the bolt for a second as I made the alteration: annoying. Moving right gains a vague groove and easier climbing up to a steep and equally puzzling finish on unhelpful fingery pockets and pinches. I failed on the 6c Margin of Error. Indeed, many of the routes further right are characterised by hideous starts: really hard lower sections, rather desperate for a few moves, but all are well bolted. Before we tried the other routes over 6b, Hayley led the very pleasant Over the Wall, a rising traverse line at a soft 6a which I've done several times before. With rope above, we both did Checkpoint Charlie. This is very technical low down, with only tiny usable footholds and fingery, sustained climbing. One or two finger holds at times: probably 6b+ or borderline 6c as a route. It gets easier towards the top, however. My next lead, the Great Escape, is the exact opposite. An easy start followed by a bulging crux right at the top, which I think I took too far left. Next, we did Lost Control, another f6b, with rope above. This is similar to Checkpoint Charlie, a really hard start using a sidepull with very little for the feet. This is similarly intense but eases more quickly. After all this technicality, we sidled off to the little trad wall further right. I led an easy Severe, done before, up a deep juggy groove and little roof, as the sun set beautifully over the Horseshoe Pass and the temperature dropped quite dramatically.
Thursday, June 04, 2015
Idwal climbing
Crag: Cwm Idwal
Routes: Central Rib (HS 4b,4a,4b:led p.2,4), Wall Variations/Original Route (VS 5a:sec), Upper Staircase (D:led), Lava Slab Left Hand (VS 4b:led), Cneifion Arete (D:led p.1,3)
Another very enjoyable enchainement of routes up the slabs and walls of Cwm Idwal. I must have done six or seven of these big outings in the past, always deliberately choosing different variations and different routes up. For me, one of the most enjoyable days to be had in Eryri, especially if you move quickly. The morning had dawned sunny and relatively warm after weeks of unsettled, quite cold weather: and the weather stayed good. I thought I'd done all the routes on the slab many years ago, and had run out of 'different variations', but we found one gap - the line of Central Rib, which is slightly contrived but does concentrate on an obvious feature, the rib left of Hope (and right of the corner taken by Charity). Vic led a long first pitch which was quite delicate and entertaining in places. Slabby padding up the line of the rib led to a bulge which was taken on crystal holds and led to a belay on Hope. My second pitch traversed left to regain the rib, then a few more delicate moves to a crack. It then became impossible for anybody but the most fanatical purist to ignore the obvious thin crack shared with Hope - laced with beautiful nut slots! Vic's third pitch is without doubt the least polished stretch of rock on the Idwal Slabs! A surprisingly technical and delicate traverse gains the rib above the wet corner of Charity. This gives delightful slab climbing, absorbing and with good friction on unpolished rock: presumably the entire crag was once like this. I led an easy and wet fourth pitch up the quartz to the terrace. Vic then went for Wall Variations - an independent 5a eliminate on Original Route which straightens it out and basically gives a completely different route. Having done Original Route before, I think this is a better pitch: certainly more enjoyable with a massive sack on! A technical move right of the normal start, with a sidepull and small footholds gains a superb pocket, then another, and then the Crescent Slab shared with the original. Up this, then a traverse left avoids the thrutchy chimney. Instead a fun mantelshelf gains the easier but good upper groove. We were now in the sunshine, but continued upward progress, trying to move as quickly as possible Alpine-style. I led up the Upper Staircase, a simple Diff which takes the obvious stepped groove on big holds to the upper terrace. From here, prior knowledge allowed us to pick a very enjoyable scrambling line up and right, staying on rock almost the entire way and eventually bringing us out below the hard to find, very esoteric Lava Slab. Not easy to work out the two routes here, but a vague groove points to the two Lava Slab lines (further right, the slab is just too gentle to give proper climbs). I took the left hand line up superb bubbly holds, pockets and little pinnacles. Amazing friction, as these routes get hardly any traffic. Gear was notable only by its absence, a flake at half height gives the only meaningful placements. But the climbing is easy: VS 4a might be more appropriate. I brought Vic up in the sunshine and we walked a little way down Senior's Ridge to have lunch at a delightful lawn of soft grass overlooking all of Ogwen and Nant Francon. A fine morning's work. But we still had some time left, so took a short level amble along the base of sun-soaked Cwm Cneifion and romped up Cneifion Arete. I led the steeper first pitch, then Vic led through the groove, then we moved together up the pinnacles and slabs of the upper crest. I've probably done this route six or seven times in many different circumstances: always a delight. After 1,500ft of movement on rock, we jogged back to to the car in half an hour, branching down the path that leads above the Gribin Facet. Less than two hours from the top of the Gribin to my front door: in time to cook family dinner!
Routes: Central Rib (HS 4b,4a,4b:led p.2,4), Wall Variations/Original Route (VS 5a:sec), Upper Staircase (D:led), Lava Slab Left Hand (VS 4b:led), Cneifion Arete (D:led p.1,3)
Another very enjoyable enchainement of routes up the slabs and walls of Cwm Idwal. I must have done six or seven of these big outings in the past, always deliberately choosing different variations and different routes up. For me, one of the most enjoyable days to be had in Eryri, especially if you move quickly. The morning had dawned sunny and relatively warm after weeks of unsettled, quite cold weather: and the weather stayed good. I thought I'd done all the routes on the slab many years ago, and had run out of 'different variations', but we found one gap - the line of Central Rib, which is slightly contrived but does concentrate on an obvious feature, the rib left of Hope (and right of the corner taken by Charity). Vic led a long first pitch which was quite delicate and entertaining in places. Slabby padding up the line of the rib led to a bulge which was taken on crystal holds and led to a belay on Hope. My second pitch traversed left to regain the rib, then a few more delicate moves to a crack. It then became impossible for anybody but the most fanatical purist to ignore the obvious thin crack shared with Hope - laced with beautiful nut slots! Vic's third pitch is without doubt the least polished stretch of rock on the Idwal Slabs! A surprisingly technical and delicate traverse gains the rib above the wet corner of Charity. This gives delightful slab climbing, absorbing and with good friction on unpolished rock: presumably the entire crag was once like this. I led an easy and wet fourth pitch up the quartz to the terrace. Vic then went for Wall Variations - an independent 5a eliminate on Original Route which straightens it out and basically gives a completely different route. Having done Original Route before, I think this is a better pitch: certainly more enjoyable with a massive sack on! A technical move right of the normal start, with a sidepull and small footholds gains a superb pocket, then another, and then the Crescent Slab shared with the original. Up this, then a traverse left avoids the thrutchy chimney. Instead a fun mantelshelf gains the easier but good upper groove. We were now in the sunshine, but continued upward progress, trying to move as quickly as possible Alpine-style. I led up the Upper Staircase, a simple Diff which takes the obvious stepped groove on big holds to the upper terrace. From here, prior knowledge allowed us to pick a very enjoyable scrambling line up and right, staying on rock almost the entire way and eventually bringing us out below the hard to find, very esoteric Lava Slab. Not easy to work out the two routes here, but a vague groove points to the two Lava Slab lines (further right, the slab is just too gentle to give proper climbs). I took the left hand line up superb bubbly holds, pockets and little pinnacles. Amazing friction, as these routes get hardly any traffic. Gear was notable only by its absence, a flake at half height gives the only meaningful placements. But the climbing is easy: VS 4a might be more appropriate. I brought Vic up in the sunshine and we walked a little way down Senior's Ridge to have lunch at a delightful lawn of soft grass overlooking all of Ogwen and Nant Francon. A fine morning's work. But we still had some time left, so took a short level amble along the base of sun-soaked Cwm Cneifion and romped up Cneifion Arete. I led the steeper first pitch, then Vic led through the groove, then we moved together up the pinnacles and slabs of the upper crest. I've probably done this route six or seven times in many different circumstances: always a delight. After 1,500ft of movement on rock, we jogged back to to the car in half an hour, branching down the path that leads above the Gribin Facet. Less than two hours from the top of the Gribin to my front door: in time to cook family dinner!
Wednesday, June 03, 2015
Birkenhead 5 mile
Race: Birkenhead Open Five Mile
Time/Position: 28.46 (17th from 212 [3rd V45])
This is apparently the oldest race on Merseyside, so it seemed an appropriate place to make my debut as a V45 after my birthday last week. It attracts a strong field of club runners, so the start was very fast. I kept to 5.5 minute mile pace and went through three miles in 16.30. It's a three lap loop round this very nice, historic park. I know the park well from the Border League route which I've done many times, but this race takes a completely different route, with fewer twists and turns but one longish gentle climb which really starts to sap the energy on the second and third lap. As a result, I started to lose time, but not too many places as a relatively warm evening caused everyone around me to slacken off at about the same pace. Around 50 seconds outside my PB, so not too bad given current lack of speed work.
Time/Position: 28.46 (17th from 212 [3rd V45])
This is apparently the oldest race on Merseyside, so it seemed an appropriate place to make my debut as a V45 after my birthday last week. It attracts a strong field of club runners, so the start was very fast. I kept to 5.5 minute mile pace and went through three miles in 16.30. It's a three lap loop round this very nice, historic park. I know the park well from the Border League route which I've done many times, but this race takes a completely different route, with fewer twists and turns but one longish gentle climb which really starts to sap the energy on the second and third lap. As a result, I started to lose time, but not too many places as a relatively warm evening caused everyone around me to slacken off at about the same pace. Around 50 seconds outside my PB, so not too bad given current lack of speed work.
Saturday, May 30, 2015
Meall a'Bhuiridh
Peak: Meall a'Bhuiridh (1108m/3635ft)
Area: Blackmount, Central Highlands
Somewhat annoyingly, this was probably the best day of the week in terms of weather, but also the day we had to leave Skye. I tentatively suggested a run from the Cluanie Inn as we drove past, but this was rejected by the democratic family unit. Instead, we continued all the way past Glencoe then stopped for lunch at the White Corries ski centre. This gave me an hour to get something done and break the long journey more satisfyingly. I used mechanical assistance for the first time ever in the UK, taking the chair lift up to Coire Pollach. Above, an incredible scene for the time of year: a virtually complete snowfield leading up to the summit. I ran along the tracks then up the snow slopes in Mudclaws. Knee deep at times, until I found a line of steps. Several parties were on skis. The weather was cold, but the sun was starting to peek through. Blue sky and white snow: a late season reminder of the joys of winter mountaineering. I picked my way up more interesting snow slopes further west and gained the summit of Meall a'Bhuiridh shortly afterwards. I was very tempted to continue along the ridge to Creise but this would have been exceptionally badly received by the family. Instead, I enjoyed a truly superb glissade down the snow: perhaps the best I've ever experienced. This lead in a matter of minutes to the chairlift, and I continued the run down the rocky path all the way to the cafe: batteries recharged for the long drive home.
Area: Blackmount, Central Highlands
Somewhat annoyingly, this was probably the best day of the week in terms of weather, but also the day we had to leave Skye. I tentatively suggested a run from the Cluanie Inn as we drove past, but this was rejected by the democratic family unit. Instead, we continued all the way past Glencoe then stopped for lunch at the White Corries ski centre. This gave me an hour to get something done and break the long journey more satisfyingly. I used mechanical assistance for the first time ever in the UK, taking the chair lift up to Coire Pollach. Above, an incredible scene for the time of year: a virtually complete snowfield leading up to the summit. I ran along the tracks then up the snow slopes in Mudclaws. Knee deep at times, until I found a line of steps. Several parties were on skis. The weather was cold, but the sun was starting to peek through. Blue sky and white snow: a late season reminder of the joys of winter mountaineering. I picked my way up more interesting snow slopes further west and gained the summit of Meall a'Bhuiridh shortly afterwards. I was very tempted to continue along the ridge to Creise but this would have been exceptionally badly received by the family. Instead, I enjoyed a truly superb glissade down the snow: perhaps the best I've ever experienced. This lead in a matter of minutes to the chairlift, and I continued the run down the rocky path all the way to the cafe: batteries recharged for the long drive home.
Friday, May 29, 2015
Glamaig (race route)
Peak: Glamaig (775m/2543ft)
Area: Red Cuillin, Skye
This peak was famously run in less than an hour by a Gurkha in 1899: it is now an annual race, and that record has long since been broken. I thought that an attempt to break the hour would make a nice pre-lunch birthday treat. In the morning, we enjoyed a truly memorable long family walk out to the tidal Oronsay island in constantly changing weather conditions and huge skies. From there, an ultra-strong Cuban coffee in Struan set me up nicely for an attempt at the race route. I started my stopwatch when I gained the path near the Sconser road car park opposite the Sligachan Inn (which is, I think, where the race starts). The level section up to the base of the hill was horrendously boggy: just one giant aquatic plod, knee deep at times. Gaining the steep slopes of Glamaig was a relief by comparison, but this is an extremely steep hill. Its shape echoes Mount Fuji, although it is a narrower cone. The angle is unrelenting and not really runnable, but I made steady striding progress up to the screes which start half way up the peak. This slowed me a bit, and the last section beyond a small forepeak was even slower. I gained the summit and stopped my watch on 42 minutes: slower than expected but great views as the weather had cleared again during my ascent. Raasey and Loch Sconser, Sgurr nan Gillean and Am Basteir, and the nearby Red Cuillin all impressive. I ran flat out back down the screes, superbly enjoyable, and plunged into the bog at the bottom, getting back to the car park in 22 minutes from the summit (64 minutes in total). A big birthday lunch at the Sligachan followed, setting us up for a walk up Coire na Creiche to see the Fairy Pools.
Area: Red Cuillin, Skye
This peak was famously run in less than an hour by a Gurkha in 1899: it is now an annual race, and that record has long since been broken. I thought that an attempt to break the hour would make a nice pre-lunch birthday treat. In the morning, we enjoyed a truly memorable long family walk out to the tidal Oronsay island in constantly changing weather conditions and huge skies. From there, an ultra-strong Cuban coffee in Struan set me up nicely for an attempt at the race route. I started my stopwatch when I gained the path near the Sconser road car park opposite the Sligachan Inn (which is, I think, where the race starts). The level section up to the base of the hill was horrendously boggy: just one giant aquatic plod, knee deep at times. Gaining the steep slopes of Glamaig was a relief by comparison, but this is an extremely steep hill. Its shape echoes Mount Fuji, although it is a narrower cone. The angle is unrelenting and not really runnable, but I made steady striding progress up to the screes which start half way up the peak. This slowed me a bit, and the last section beyond a small forepeak was even slower. I gained the summit and stopped my watch on 42 minutes: slower than expected but great views as the weather had cleared again during my ascent. Raasey and Loch Sconser, Sgurr nan Gillean and Am Basteir, and the nearby Red Cuillin all impressive. I ran flat out back down the screes, superbly enjoyable, and plunged into the bog at the bottom, getting back to the car park in 22 minutes from the summit (64 minutes in total). A big birthday lunch at the Sligachan followed, setting us up for a walk up Coire na Creiche to see the Fairy Pools.
Thursday, May 28, 2015
Duirinish coast traverse (Ramasaig to Orbost)
A memorable and wonderful run: the opportunity to do this from our cottage in Glendale was too good to miss, to the extent that I was prepared to forego a morning in the mountains for it. It is tricky logistically, as both roadheads are remote to say the least. But we were staying just a few miles from Ramasaig, so K and E dropped me off there first thing in the morning (then went back to their warm beds), and I arranged to meet them three hours later in Orbost (although it didn't take me that long as the route, although 'up and down', was only 23k). Some say this is the best coastal walk in the British Isles: it is certainly right up there and works brilliantly as a run. Ramasaig was very remote, just one farmhouse. I ran a couple of miles south-east down the ultra-muddy Lon Ban (a track churned up by farm animals) to the deserted (cleared in 1830) village of Lorgill and a lonely small bay. From here, the coastal path was extremely tenuous - the opposite of those found in Cornwall, for example. I followed sheep tracks above the sea to a diversion inland at the Scaladal Burn. A long and boggy run back towards the sea led to a narrow path at last. The rest of the run to the headland was just stunning. Wonderfully wild scenery with weather to match: and firm, springy turf underfoot. A strong cross/tailwind blew a few sharp showers in, resulting in a spectacular skyscape which magnificently complemented the landscape. The cliffs were split at regular intervals by pronounced river valleys, the first of which - at Glen Dibidil - was quite hard to cross after recent rain, but the climbs out were never that long. The scenic highlight came shortly afterwards, the stunning stacks and arches below Glen Lorgasdal, with a Skye speciality, a waterfall plunging directly into the sea. After this, a classic geo/zawn, and a view of the sea stacks known as Macleod's Maidens. Here, the path tracks inland for a bit, below the little hill of Steineval. I lost the path at this point, ending up crashing through a nightmarish terrain of gorse and deep drainage channels, reliant on deer trails to get me out. Lots of skittish red deer in this area. Eventually, exhausting bog led to Idrigill where I found the path. Excellent running in a very sharp hail shower led past Brandarsaig Bay, with views over Loch Brachadale, to conifer forests. The sun came out at tranquil Loch Bharcasaig, which also has its own private mountain glen attached. Almost warm by the time I got to Orbost and met the family for a late breakfast in Dunvegan.
Wednesday, May 27, 2015
Quiraing walk
This is one of the most unusual and spectacular landscapes in the British Isles. I have wanted to explore Trotternish for many years, and we took a risk today - hopeful that the forecast rain would hold off until we'd finished our Trotternish tour. From the top of the Uig-Staffin road, we all set off towards the magical landscape of spires, crags and meadows that is recognisable immediately as the unique Quiraing. Black clouds flirted with the top of the crags, but some sunshine lit the meadows and lent incredible definition to the views. Behind, the rest of the Trotternish ridge stretched away towards the Storr. In front, the sea, Rona and Applecross. I think the children were quietly impressed, despite M's insistence on listening to a podcast! They didn't complain anyway, and we made good progress along the path at the foot of the crags to reach the Prison, a tottering crag which forms a kind of gateway with the very slender Needle to its left. This gives access to a gentler section past a little lake towards Loch Hasco. E and I continued along to the ridge that doubles back to the summit above Coire Mhic Eachainn. We varied the route back, below the Prison on soft green grass, and arrived back at the col hungry. No problem though, as we chanced on a remarkable Indian takeaway in the tiny village of Brogaig: freshly baked nan, homemade curries and basmati rice as we looked out over Staffin Bay.
Tuesday, May 26, 2015
Sgurr a'Mhadaidh
Peak: Sgurr a'Mhadaidh (918m/3012ft)
Area: Cuillin, Skye
Unlike all our previous trips to the Highlands at this time of year, weather luck was not with us this week. It was far from a washout, but it was cold: too cold to execute my plans to explore the bits of the Cuillin ridge that I missed in 1993. This was apparent again this morning. I planned to do a big chunk of the ridge, and got up very early to do just that. But after parking in Glen Brittle and running up to Coire a'Ghreadaidh (again quite gentle so very quick progress) it became obvious quite quickly that the weather would force a downscaling. From the top of the lower corrie, a steeper rise leads to a river crossing then a pull into an upper cwm. Atmospheric again, with mist swirling around the crags above and a few teams already on their way down! I decided not to go for the traverse of Mhadaidh, opting instead for the safe option of the steep screes that lead to the tiny pass of An Dorus ('the door': very similar to the kind of narrow 'breche' you see in the Southern Alps). The wind howled through this gap, and I grappled with all my spare clothes. The route out of the gap was tricky initially, soaking rock and a windchill (according to the mountain weather forecast) of -15C! It was cold on the fingers to say the least, but above this little pitch the route to the summit eases considerably to a series of ledges which then led to enjoyable but cold and wet scrambling to a very windy summit (73 minutes from Glen Brittle). At that moment, the wind tore a hole in the mist revealing superb views of a black and forbidding Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh, and Sgurr Thuilm. I had my winter climbing gloves, down jacket and waterproofs on, and was still cold. My ancient fell running shoes were OK on the wet gabbro, not so good on the wet basalt, but nothing is. The little pitch to An Dorus was tricky, and an abseil rope was in situ on the Greadaidh side. It was raining too, so I decided to abandon even my worst case 'fall back' option and not bother with Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh. Instead, I beat a prudent retreat from An Dorus back to Glen Brittle. Very good, fast running: back at the cottage in Glendale before 11am in time for a venison platter at the Red Roof cafe.
Unlike all our previous trips to the Highlands at this time of year, weather luck was not with us this week. It was far from a washout, but it was cold: too cold to execute my plans to explore the bits of the Cuillin ridge that I missed in 1993. This was apparent again this morning. I planned to do a big chunk of the ridge, and got up very early to do just that. But after parking in Glen Brittle and running up to Coire a'Ghreadaidh (again quite gentle so very quick progress) it became obvious quite quickly that the weather would force a downscaling. From the top of the lower corrie, a steeper rise leads to a river crossing then a pull into an upper cwm. Atmospheric again, with mist swirling around the crags above and a few teams already on their way down! I decided not to go for the traverse of Mhadaidh, opting instead for the safe option of the steep screes that lead to the tiny pass of An Dorus ('the door': very similar to the kind of narrow 'breche' you see in the Southern Alps). The wind howled through this gap, and I grappled with all my spare clothes. The route out of the gap was tricky initially, soaking rock and a windchill (according to the mountain weather forecast) of -15C! It was cold on the fingers to say the least, but above this little pitch the route to the summit eases considerably to a series of ledges which then led to enjoyable but cold and wet scrambling to a very windy summit (73 minutes from Glen Brittle). At that moment, the wind tore a hole in the mist revealing superb views of a black and forbidding Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh, and Sgurr Thuilm. I had my winter climbing gloves, down jacket and waterproofs on, and was still cold. My ancient fell running shoes were OK on the wet gabbro, not so good on the wet basalt, but nothing is. The little pitch to An Dorus was tricky, and an abseil rope was in situ on the Greadaidh side. It was raining too, so I decided to abandon even my worst case 'fall back' option and not bother with Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh. Instead, I beat a prudent retreat from An Dorus back to Glen Brittle. Very good, fast running: back at the cottage in Glendale before 11am in time for a venison platter at the Red Roof cafe.
Monday, May 25, 2015
Am Basteir
Peak: Am Basteir (934m/3064ft)
Area: Cuillin, Skye
This peak is an impressive blade of rock when seen from Sgurr nan Gillean and also has an alluring name which has traditionally been translated as 'the executioner'. On my last proper visit to Skye, in 1993, I clearly remember a 30 second clearance in an appalling week of weather as we sat on the tiny summit of Gillean. Am Basteir looked good then, but it's taken me 22 years to come back (it rained continually that week in 1993!). This was just one of my usual short early morning outings, adopting a lightweight running approach with small sack and fell running shoes. The weather wasn't great, a cold north-westerly put the air temperature at 1C on the ridge, with a considerable windchill. Not ideal for scrambling. The path up towards Coire a'Bhasteir from Sligachan is just gently inclining and superbly runnable. I made very rapid progress, gaining the spur in 20 minutes. This broad spur is not easy to negotiate, with tenuous paths running between small crags, but it leads below Pinnacle Ridge to the atmospheric Coire a'Bhasteir. In these conditions of drizzle and swirling mist, it borders on intimidating. The onward route is a little tricky, and I had to downclimb a gully at one point to pick up the main path which is obvious once you are on it. This leads via long scree zigzags up to the Bealach a'Bhasteir: a tight col between Gillean and Am Basteir. Visibility was quite bad and the rock was soaking as I embarked on the East Ridge of Am Basteir. This is easy, just shattered sloping shelves and scree, but quite neatly defined, and leads to the 'bad step'. This is steep on the crest, and I had no wish to reverse what looked like 4b moves on wet rock in my damaged Mud Claws. I traversed sloping and soaking gabbro shelves to the left sounding out a feasible descent, eventually locating an easier downclimb about 20ft below the crest: steep but with good holds. It's then just a short jog up a fairly narrow continuation ridge to the top: very cold, shifting mist with the odd view of the Bhasteir tooth emerging from the mist and rain. It was nice to be on the main Cuillin ridge in these conditions: nobody around. A quick descent, very easy to reclimb the bad step, led to the bealach. Then good scree running down to a cold and wet corrie floor. Fine running all the way back to Sligachan: less than three hours in total, so back at our cottage before lunch.
Area: Cuillin, Skye
This peak is an impressive blade of rock when seen from Sgurr nan Gillean and also has an alluring name which has traditionally been translated as 'the executioner'. On my last proper visit to Skye, in 1993, I clearly remember a 30 second clearance in an appalling week of weather as we sat on the tiny summit of Gillean. Am Basteir looked good then, but it's taken me 22 years to come back (it rained continually that week in 1993!). This was just one of my usual short early morning outings, adopting a lightweight running approach with small sack and fell running shoes. The weather wasn't great, a cold north-westerly put the air temperature at 1C on the ridge, with a considerable windchill. Not ideal for scrambling. The path up towards Coire a'Bhasteir from Sligachan is just gently inclining and superbly runnable. I made very rapid progress, gaining the spur in 20 minutes. This broad spur is not easy to negotiate, with tenuous paths running between small crags, but it leads below Pinnacle Ridge to the atmospheric Coire a'Bhasteir. In these conditions of drizzle and swirling mist, it borders on intimidating. The onward route is a little tricky, and I had to downclimb a gully at one point to pick up the main path which is obvious once you are on it. This leads via long scree zigzags up to the Bealach a'Bhasteir: a tight col between Gillean and Am Basteir. Visibility was quite bad and the rock was soaking as I embarked on the East Ridge of Am Basteir. This is easy, just shattered sloping shelves and scree, but quite neatly defined, and leads to the 'bad step'. This is steep on the crest, and I had no wish to reverse what looked like 4b moves on wet rock in my damaged Mud Claws. I traversed sloping and soaking gabbro shelves to the left sounding out a feasible descent, eventually locating an easier downclimb about 20ft below the crest: steep but with good holds. It's then just a short jog up a fairly narrow continuation ridge to the top: very cold, shifting mist with the odd view of the Bhasteir tooth emerging from the mist and rain. It was nice to be on the main Cuillin ridge in these conditions: nobody around. A quick descent, very easy to reclimb the bad step, led to the bealach. Then good scree running down to a cold and wet corrie floor. Fine running all the way back to Sligachan: less than three hours in total, so back at our cottage before lunch.
Saturday, May 23, 2015
Beinn Odhar
Peak: Beinn Odhar (901m/2956ft)
Area: Tyndrum, Southern Highlands
An ideal way to break the journey north, this Corbett rises above Tyndrum and lends itself to a short, sharp run. After a night in Dumbarton, we had breakfast at the Real Food cafe, then I set off from the A82 in perfect sunny conditions, ploughing diagonally up the steep slopes (too steep to be runnable) above the road to eventually pick up the broad south ridge much higher up. There is a semblance of a path up this, but this hill is another illustration of the pull that Munros exert. It is only just below the mark, extremely accessible, but I had it to myself in stunning weather. After a short narrowing of the now runnable ridge, a lochan is gained, before steeper boulder fields lead to the summit. Great views over Beinn Dorain, its more illustrious neighbour (which I ran up in torrential rain this time last year). Indeed, the views across the entire Southern Highlands were excellent: Ben Lui, Cruach Ardrain and Ben Cruachan were particularly notable. I had one hour (in total) at my disposal, so ran flat out down the south ridge to the West Highland Way, treating the subsequent run back to Tyndrum and the family as a mini speed session.
Area: Tyndrum, Southern Highlands
An ideal way to break the journey north, this Corbett rises above Tyndrum and lends itself to a short, sharp run. After a night in Dumbarton, we had breakfast at the Real Food cafe, then I set off from the A82 in perfect sunny conditions, ploughing diagonally up the steep slopes (too steep to be runnable) above the road to eventually pick up the broad south ridge much higher up. There is a semblance of a path up this, but this hill is another illustration of the pull that Munros exert. It is only just below the mark, extremely accessible, but I had it to myself in stunning weather. After a short narrowing of the now runnable ridge, a lochan is gained, before steeper boulder fields lead to the summit. Great views over Beinn Dorain, its more illustrious neighbour (which I ran up in torrential rain this time last year). Indeed, the views across the entire Southern Highlands were excellent: Ben Lui, Cruach Ardrain and Ben Cruachan were particularly notable. I had one hour (in total) at my disposal, so ran flat out down the south ridge to the West Highland Way, treating the subsequent run back to Tyndrum and the family as a mini speed session.
Thursday, May 21, 2015
Nant Ffrancon climbing
Crag: Craig Braich Ty Ddu, Carneddau
Routes: Decameron Rib (VS 4a,4b,4a:led p.1,2), Cuckoo Groove Direct (VS 4c,4a:led p.2), Route 2 (S:led p.1)
This collection of crags has never been popular, even though they are not far above the A5. I did a few routes here with Tim in 2002, and did the scramble up the broken face above a few times as a teenager. As so often, the routes are good but it's a downward spiral: they get left out of selective guides, nobody goes there, the paths fall into obscurity and the routes get vegetated. Meanwhile the polish on the classics gets worse. I always like doing something different, so persuaded Vic to join me for the awkward traverse over multiple shallow heathery gullies to get to Decameron Rib, probably the most obvious and eye-catching line here (although the vast majority of visits to this crag are for Pinnacle Ridge). Rather cold, cloudy and windy as I started the first pitch, up an awkward crack splitting the rib left of the deep groove that marks the route out from below. There are actually numerous options for this first pitch, but I enjoyed this way, which seemed the cleanest and most frequently travelled (all relatively speaking, however) - up to a pinnacle, then a tricky move up to a long flat hold and a couple of saplings to a small stance below the roof. Vic led off up pitch two but didn't fancy the move below the roof. So we swapped leads and I edged along good footholds to a committing move round the bulge below the roof. A perfect little sidepull and a skip right allows for another sideways move to gain a little ledge in the bottomless groove. Good gear here, but the continuation crack was sadly vegetated and dirty: very likely the first ascent this year. Straightforward climbing, bridging to avoid the plantlife, led to a dodgy pinnacle, then more interesting climbing to a small stance (too low, but I was keen to avoid drag). Above, the third pitch takes a very pleasant slab up to a huge sculpted flake and a finish up a pinnacle - in the sunshine now, warm and welcome. A nice VS, deserves far more traffic than it gets. We abbed off down the gully to the right for a sunny lunch, enjoying superb views over Nant Ffrancon to Y Garn and Foel Goch. A slog up another gully, wet and unpleasant, led to the next buttress up. I'd been here before, for Route 2, but we went for the eye-catching line of Cuckoo Groove. As it happens, a cuckoo was calling (and flying around) as Vic led the first pitch. The crux comes immediately: a good 5a move, awkwardly stepping off a flake on to a very steep, slightly impending wall. Small holds and smaller footholds until a finger crack can be grabbed. Then good climbing to a stance in the groove. My pitch was supposedly 4b: it led down and right on excellent rock, but the gear was sparse. I made two committing moves up to a footledge, got some small wires in behind a thin flake, then made another move into the groove above. It looked very committing indeed: reasonable climbing but all the cracks are hopelessly shallow seams. Basically no gear, and the arête above looked similarly committing. Reminded me of the second pitch of Grey Arete: far too early in the season having led virtually no trad pitches all year! So after a rather harrowing downclimb, I continued up the direct version of the route. This isn't in the old guidebook, presumably because it makes the route too disjointed (indeed, the HVS line is a bit contrived as it seeks difficulty by moving away from the main groove line). But the continuation groove still gave a nice pitch of about 4a, up quartz holds and good flakes. I assume this direct line up the groove was not a first ascent! We finished with the excellent Route 2, which I did with Tim in 2002. It's one of the best Severe pitches in Eryri, but completely unheralded. I led a short pitch one over blocks and pinnacles, then (tired after what had gone before) followed Vic up an awkward crux, which involves a very steep thrutch to stand on a pinnacle, then an off-balance reach to exit a wide crack. Above, the delightful upper wall runs to superb jugs and flakes on immaculate rough rock.
Routes: Decameron Rib (VS 4a,4b,4a:led p.1,2), Cuckoo Groove Direct (VS 4c,4a:led p.2), Route 2 (S:led p.1)
This collection of crags has never been popular, even though they are not far above the A5. I did a few routes here with Tim in 2002, and did the scramble up the broken face above a few times as a teenager. As so often, the routes are good but it's a downward spiral: they get left out of selective guides, nobody goes there, the paths fall into obscurity and the routes get vegetated. Meanwhile the polish on the classics gets worse. I always like doing something different, so persuaded Vic to join me for the awkward traverse over multiple shallow heathery gullies to get to Decameron Rib, probably the most obvious and eye-catching line here (although the vast majority of visits to this crag are for Pinnacle Ridge). Rather cold, cloudy and windy as I started the first pitch, up an awkward crack splitting the rib left of the deep groove that marks the route out from below. There are actually numerous options for this first pitch, but I enjoyed this way, which seemed the cleanest and most frequently travelled (all relatively speaking, however) - up to a pinnacle, then a tricky move up to a long flat hold and a couple of saplings to a small stance below the roof. Vic led off up pitch two but didn't fancy the move below the roof. So we swapped leads and I edged along good footholds to a committing move round the bulge below the roof. A perfect little sidepull and a skip right allows for another sideways move to gain a little ledge in the bottomless groove. Good gear here, but the continuation crack was sadly vegetated and dirty: very likely the first ascent this year. Straightforward climbing, bridging to avoid the plantlife, led to a dodgy pinnacle, then more interesting climbing to a small stance (too low, but I was keen to avoid drag). Above, the third pitch takes a very pleasant slab up to a huge sculpted flake and a finish up a pinnacle - in the sunshine now, warm and welcome. A nice VS, deserves far more traffic than it gets. We abbed off down the gully to the right for a sunny lunch, enjoying superb views over Nant Ffrancon to Y Garn and Foel Goch. A slog up another gully, wet and unpleasant, led to the next buttress up. I'd been here before, for Route 2, but we went for the eye-catching line of Cuckoo Groove. As it happens, a cuckoo was calling (and flying around) as Vic led the first pitch. The crux comes immediately: a good 5a move, awkwardly stepping off a flake on to a very steep, slightly impending wall. Small holds and smaller footholds until a finger crack can be grabbed. Then good climbing to a stance in the groove. My pitch was supposedly 4b: it led down and right on excellent rock, but the gear was sparse. I made two committing moves up to a footledge, got some small wires in behind a thin flake, then made another move into the groove above. It looked very committing indeed: reasonable climbing but all the cracks are hopelessly shallow seams. Basically no gear, and the arête above looked similarly committing. Reminded me of the second pitch of Grey Arete: far too early in the season having led virtually no trad pitches all year! So after a rather harrowing downclimb, I continued up the direct version of the route. This isn't in the old guidebook, presumably because it makes the route too disjointed (indeed, the HVS line is a bit contrived as it seeks difficulty by moving away from the main groove line). But the continuation groove still gave a nice pitch of about 4a, up quartz holds and good flakes. I assume this direct line up the groove was not a first ascent! We finished with the excellent Route 2, which I did with Tim in 2002. It's one of the best Severe pitches in Eryri, but completely unheralded. I led a short pitch one over blocks and pinnacles, then (tired after what had gone before) followed Vic up an awkward crux, which involves a very steep thrutch to stand on a pinnacle, then an off-balance reach to exit a wide crack. Above, the delightful upper wall runs to superb jugs and flakes on immaculate rough rock.
Wednesday, May 20, 2015
Rhyl 5k
Race: Rhyl 5k (North Wales Championships)
Time/Position: 17.57 (6th from 104 [2nd V40])
The fact that no runners went under 17 minutes this evening suggests that the headwind in the last 2k must have made a bit of a difference to the times. I was almost a minute slower than I'd hoped for, and over a minute down on my PB. After jogging round the junior race with E (this is an ideal family event for me, so close to St Asaph), I set off in a small group of around 10 lead runners out to the west, then around for a long run along the prom with tailwind to the turn near Rhyl golf course. I made up a few places on a difficult run-in, with quite a strong headwind. Felt sluggish throughout, but enjoyed the race - my first 5k for quite a while.
Time/Position: 17.57 (6th from 104 [2nd V40])
The fact that no runners went under 17 minutes this evening suggests that the headwind in the last 2k must have made a bit of a difference to the times. I was almost a minute slower than I'd hoped for, and over a minute down on my PB. After jogging round the junior race with E (this is an ideal family event for me, so close to St Asaph), I set off in a small group of around 10 lead runners out to the west, then around for a long run along the prom with tailwind to the turn near Rhyl golf course. I made up a few places on a difficult run-in, with quite a strong headwind. Felt sluggish throughout, but enjoyed the race - my first 5k for quite a while.
Sunday, May 17, 2015
Penmaenbach climbing
Crag: Penmaenbach, Conwy
Routes: Big A55 Arete (f6a+:led), Pendulum Corner (f5+:sec), Agent Orange (f5+:led), Y Clip Aur (f6a:sec)
We replenished some of the energy lost on this morning's long run over the Carneddau with bacon sandwiches at the Aber cafe. It was windy at the Sychnant pass, and this crag is rather exposed, so probably not the ideal choice particularly as the lines we started with are the highest in the quarry, with great views over the sea and Orme. I'd tried to find the A55 arete line last year, but ended up on the 6c+ Whole of the Law instead! Steve, Hayley and I loosened our legs from the morning run on the longish walk over to the crag, and found the true arete line easily. It gives a lovely 22m climb, but as is often the case with the easier coastal sports routes, was overgraded. Nice moves over an overlap give access to a delicate and absorbing tapering slab. I stuck religiously to the arete, which might make it almost f6a, but it would very likely get 5+ at the most in Provence (certainly not the f6a+ or even f6b given). A great crux at the top on little holds, shuffling out to a sloping foothold on the arete itself. The wind was a problem, given the delicate nature of the climbing, and my fingers were very cold. Hayley seconded then led the obvious corner line of Pendulum Corner. Steve followed, and I went up with the rope above. Another strong line, a very enjoyable juggy romp with some light bridging as it steepens towards the top, although dramatically overgraded again (f4+ at the most if it was in France). We were getting cold, but the weather stayed dry (despite black clouds and a few spots of drizzle) so I led the obvious steep slab which runs below the A55 Arete. This gives another excellent easy route. Elegant climbing, even in the wind, with delightful moves up the steep slab on sharp holds and ledges (f5). We tried to get out of the wind on the smaller slab where we'd climbed last summer. I went for the 6c crack line by way of an appropriate finale to a long day. This goes easily up to a hard crux which was rendered desperate by the cold wind. I couldn't feel my fingers, which was a real problem as the crux depends on little finger jams and tiny two finger holds. Just ripples for the feet. I made two attempts, and reached the crucial flat hold to clip the final bolt on the second attempt. But my attempts to smear failed, and I slipped again. It should go reasonably easily in warmer and calmer weather though. We finished with the easy f6a to its left instead. A varied, enjoyable and tiring day.
Routes: Big A55 Arete (f6a+:led), Pendulum Corner (f5+:sec), Agent Orange (f5+:led), Y Clip Aur (f6a:sec)
We replenished some of the energy lost on this morning's long run over the Carneddau with bacon sandwiches at the Aber cafe. It was windy at the Sychnant pass, and this crag is rather exposed, so probably not the ideal choice particularly as the lines we started with are the highest in the quarry, with great views over the sea and Orme. I'd tried to find the A55 arete line last year, but ended up on the 6c+ Whole of the Law instead! Steve, Hayley and I loosened our legs from the morning run on the longish walk over to the crag, and found the true arete line easily. It gives a lovely 22m climb, but as is often the case with the easier coastal sports routes, was overgraded. Nice moves over an overlap give access to a delicate and absorbing tapering slab. I stuck religiously to the arete, which might make it almost f6a, but it would very likely get 5+ at the most in Provence (certainly not the f6a+ or even f6b given). A great crux at the top on little holds, shuffling out to a sloping foothold on the arete itself. The wind was a problem, given the delicate nature of the climbing, and my fingers were very cold. Hayley seconded then led the obvious corner line of Pendulum Corner. Steve followed, and I went up with the rope above. Another strong line, a very enjoyable juggy romp with some light bridging as it steepens towards the top, although dramatically overgraded again (f4+ at the most if it was in France). We were getting cold, but the weather stayed dry (despite black clouds and a few spots of drizzle) so I led the obvious steep slab which runs below the A55 Arete. This gives another excellent easy route. Elegant climbing, even in the wind, with delightful moves up the steep slab on sharp holds and ledges (f5). We tried to get out of the wind on the smaller slab where we'd climbed last summer. I went for the 6c crack line by way of an appropriate finale to a long day. This goes easily up to a hard crux which was rendered desperate by the cold wind. I couldn't feel my fingers, which was a real problem as the crux depends on little finger jams and tiny two finger holds. Just ripples for the feet. I made two attempts, and reached the crucial flat hold to clip the final bolt on the second attempt. But my attempts to smear failed, and I slipped again. It should go reasonably easily in warmer and calmer weather though. We finished with the easy f6a to its left instead. A varied, enjoyable and tiring day.
Carneddau traverse
Peaks: Bera Mawr, Carnedd Gwenllian, Foel Grach, Carnedd Llewellyn, Carnedd Dafydd
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
A really enjoyable jog over the first half of the 1000m peaks race. I've done the race three times and it has always been one of my favourites. I did the old route (avoiding Glyder Fawr) in 2008 and 2009 (when I came 8th in appalling conditions: it made the BBC news that day!), and the new route (when I had a much better 4:45 run) in 2011, my Welsh Champs year. Simon and Steve invited me along for the reccie alongside Andy and Hayley. It was a great convivial crowd, but sadly I was unable to remember some of the micro route details after we'd run from the coast to the path above Aber Falls into Cwm Afon Goch. I couldn't recall which gully to take, so we went slightly too far up the cwm and headed up the hillside direct to Bera Mawr emerging just above the shallow valley which I recognised from the race. So, no harm done. From here, we crossed between Bera Mawr and Bera Bach into a strong headwind with the mist down. This was good for the reccie, typical conditions and challenging navigation: we ran on a bearing through this famously featureless terrain, just under the new checkpoint at Yr Aryg, skirting Carnedd Gwenllian summit, then picking up the main Carneddau path to the shelter on Foel Grach. After a bite to eat and some extra layers, we ploughed onwards into a strong and cold headwind all the way to the summit of Llewellyn, one of my favourite places. The mist cleared briefly allowing views over Ysgolion Duon and beyond. Very cold for the time of year. Superb running, enjoyed by all the crew, along the ridge to Dafydd, pointing out the 'racing lines' where I could. A steep descent down to Bodesi and our 'second car' in Ogwen completed an enjoyable morning outing. We replenished some calories in the excellent Hen Felin (Aber) cafe before embarking on the second part of the day: climbing at Penmaenbach.
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
A really enjoyable jog over the first half of the 1000m peaks race. I've done the race three times and it has always been one of my favourites. I did the old route (avoiding Glyder Fawr) in 2008 and 2009 (when I came 8th in appalling conditions: it made the BBC news that day!), and the new route (when I had a much better 4:45 run) in 2011, my Welsh Champs year. Simon and Steve invited me along for the reccie alongside Andy and Hayley. It was a great convivial crowd, but sadly I was unable to remember some of the micro route details after we'd run from the coast to the path above Aber Falls into Cwm Afon Goch. I couldn't recall which gully to take, so we went slightly too far up the cwm and headed up the hillside direct to Bera Mawr emerging just above the shallow valley which I recognised from the race. So, no harm done. From here, we crossed between Bera Mawr and Bera Bach into a strong headwind with the mist down. This was good for the reccie, typical conditions and challenging navigation: we ran on a bearing through this famously featureless terrain, just under the new checkpoint at Yr Aryg, skirting Carnedd Gwenllian summit, then picking up the main Carneddau path to the shelter on Foel Grach. After a bite to eat and some extra layers, we ploughed onwards into a strong and cold headwind all the way to the summit of Llewellyn, one of my favourite places. The mist cleared briefly allowing views over Ysgolion Duon and beyond. Very cold for the time of year. Superb running, enjoyed by all the crew, along the ridge to Dafydd, pointing out the 'racing lines' where I could. A steep descent down to Bodesi and our 'second car' in Ogwen completed an enjoyable morning outing. We replenished some calories in the excellent Hen Felin (Aber) cafe before embarking on the second part of the day: climbing at Penmaenbach.
Tuesday, May 12, 2015
Llanddulas climbing
Crag: Llanddulas Cave
Routes: Mind Light (f6a+:led), Karmic Wind (f6a+:led), Karmic Wind Direct (f6b:sec), Poet Lariat (f6a:led), Not Runout Groove (f5+/6a:sec), Runout Groove (f6b:sec)
After our brief rain-soaked visit here last week, I realised there was some untapped potential so headed back there with Vic in high winds on a brief evening visit. Gusts up to 40mph, so we hoped that the cave and north-east aspect might protect us. It worked a treat, and it was largely calm as I led Mind Light, the first of two longish (20m) routes at f6a+ left of the main cave visible from the A55. The rock is a rather smooth white limestone, mottled with lichen. It runs to rather flat holds and the climbing is quite a bit harder and steeper than it looks from below. Mind Light takes a vague groove heading diagonally right on reasonable holds. Nice flowing climbing up to a good rest on a big footledge. Then steep moves go straight up to the finishing crack, where the position of the lower-off means that the crux is right at the top. I had to leave the crack and make a move or two on small holds up the smooth wall at the top to reach the chains. Satisfyingly smooth lead and a good route. Its companion, Karmic Wind, is a bit harder as it has a distinct crux at half height. After easy, quite juggy climbing low down, I misread the route and went too far right. It actually goes up to the left: a nice sequence of long reaches and small nicks for the feet. Had to steady myself as I moved across to the right line but did the moves cleanly and quickly. Easier and enjoyable climbing leads to the top. The direct route seemed easier, despite the grade, and I continued through with rope above on a private little eliminate of my own making: good training. The weather was clearing nicely, so we headed to the sunshine on the west-facing lower crag (Forgotten Sun area). Sadly, this meant we bore the brunt of the wind, although it was easing slightly. I've done a few routes here before, so led a 6a that I haven't ticked. It was a poor route. Flat holds and awkward climbing up to a mantel to a grassy ledge. Then more sloping handholds and polished footholds lead to a tricky finish. We finished off with the two lines up the groove. The indirect, which I've led before, is awkward and not very good, and takes a weird circuitous line to gain the obvious 'HVS' groove above. Runout Groove itself may be more technical, and gets a 6b grade, but feels easier and takes a more logical direct line up to the groove on small but less polished and more positive holds.
Routes: Mind Light (f6a+:led), Karmic Wind (f6a+:led), Karmic Wind Direct (f6b:sec), Poet Lariat (f6a:led), Not Runout Groove (f5+/6a:sec), Runout Groove (f6b:sec)
After our brief rain-soaked visit here last week, I realised there was some untapped potential so headed back there with Vic in high winds on a brief evening visit. Gusts up to 40mph, so we hoped that the cave and north-east aspect might protect us. It worked a treat, and it was largely calm as I led Mind Light, the first of two longish (20m) routes at f6a+ left of the main cave visible from the A55. The rock is a rather smooth white limestone, mottled with lichen. It runs to rather flat holds and the climbing is quite a bit harder and steeper than it looks from below. Mind Light takes a vague groove heading diagonally right on reasonable holds. Nice flowing climbing up to a good rest on a big footledge. Then steep moves go straight up to the finishing crack, where the position of the lower-off means that the crux is right at the top. I had to leave the crack and make a move or two on small holds up the smooth wall at the top to reach the chains. Satisfyingly smooth lead and a good route. Its companion, Karmic Wind, is a bit harder as it has a distinct crux at half height. After easy, quite juggy climbing low down, I misread the route and went too far right. It actually goes up to the left: a nice sequence of long reaches and small nicks for the feet. Had to steady myself as I moved across to the right line but did the moves cleanly and quickly. Easier and enjoyable climbing leads to the top. The direct route seemed easier, despite the grade, and I continued through with rope above on a private little eliminate of my own making: good training. The weather was clearing nicely, so we headed to the sunshine on the west-facing lower crag (Forgotten Sun area). Sadly, this meant we bore the brunt of the wind, although it was easing slightly. I've done a few routes here before, so led a 6a that I haven't ticked. It was a poor route. Flat holds and awkward climbing up to a mantel to a grassy ledge. Then more sloping handholds and polished footholds lead to a tricky finish. We finished off with the two lines up the groove. The indirect, which I've led before, is awkward and not very good, and takes a weird circuitous line to gain the obvious 'HVS' groove above. Runout Groove itself may be more technical, and gets a 6b grade, but feels easier and takes a more logical direct line up to the groove on small but less polished and more positive holds.
Thursday, May 07, 2015
Penmaenhead/Llanddulas climbing
Crag: Penmaenhead, Colwyn Bay
Routes: The Long Run Home (f6a:led), Go with the Flow (f6a:led), Statement of Twilight Years (f6b:led), Fixe Inox City (f6b+:sec*)
Crag: Llanddulas Cave
Routes: Lemon Crunch (f5:sec)
A frustrating evening dodging heavy showers. It had been dry all day in Colwyn Bay (but raining in Chester). Arriving at the crag, that all reversed - a heavy and prolonged shower saw us sheltering under trees then waiting for the routes to dry. Luckily, they dry quickly so we headed up to the Expressway wall. The 6a on the far left is even closer to the A55 than the other routes: to the point that you can't hear yourself think! It was a bit damp in places, but gives nice climbing up a steep wall on small juggy holds to a badly placed second clip which I shamelessly steadied myself on. From here, easier climbing up the arete leads to big flat holds and the finish. Nice rough rock, but not quite as good as the routes further right. We moved through the mud to the Flowstone Wall, where Hayley backed off the slabby 6a (Go with the Flow) in damp conditions. I led through, finding it more technical than I remembered from previous ascents, perhaps because of the damp (and associated muddy feet and hands). The crux involves a pinched little stalactite and the rock above is hard to read from below, but leads to a great pocketed hold. I was keen to push the grade a bit as the rock was drying, so went for the 6b (Statement of Twilight Years) further right. Very muddy at the base, so cleaning the shoes and hands became an issue. Some damp hindered progress too, all of which wasn't ideal as the first clip is a long way up. From a ledge though, some good holds and long reaches lead to the clip, then some excellent technical and fingery climbing often involving high steps and intricate footwork. It is never desperate or overly strenuous, just off-vertical and lowish in the 6b grade. A satisfying onsight lead up small positive edges and flat holds, moving right to the lower-off. I took the opportunity to try the 6b+ to its right, which goes quite easily to a desperate final move which spat me off. A far more disjointed line: not as good as the easier but more sustained and continuous 6b. Hayley then led the f5 as the rain started again, so we left the crag. It was very early, so we parked in Llanddulas and walked up to the cave, a venue I've only visited once before. It was wet, even the subterranean routes inside the cave were seeping. Further right, the wall of white limestone looked extremely inviting but was damp, bordering on wet. Hayley picked her way up Lemon Crunch at f5, an absorbing task in these conditions - wet and slippery all the way up, but well bolted for a change. I had a look at the steeper routes further right, but they were far too wet and by now it was raining again so we slithered down the muddy paths back to the car.
Routes: The Long Run Home (f6a:led), Go with the Flow (f6a:led), Statement of Twilight Years (f6b:led), Fixe Inox City (f6b+:sec*)
Crag: Llanddulas Cave
Routes: Lemon Crunch (f5:sec)
A frustrating evening dodging heavy showers. It had been dry all day in Colwyn Bay (but raining in Chester). Arriving at the crag, that all reversed - a heavy and prolonged shower saw us sheltering under trees then waiting for the routes to dry. Luckily, they dry quickly so we headed up to the Expressway wall. The 6a on the far left is even closer to the A55 than the other routes: to the point that you can't hear yourself think! It was a bit damp in places, but gives nice climbing up a steep wall on small juggy holds to a badly placed second clip which I shamelessly steadied myself on. From here, easier climbing up the arete leads to big flat holds and the finish. Nice rough rock, but not quite as good as the routes further right. We moved through the mud to the Flowstone Wall, where Hayley backed off the slabby 6a (Go with the Flow) in damp conditions. I led through, finding it more technical than I remembered from previous ascents, perhaps because of the damp (and associated muddy feet and hands). The crux involves a pinched little stalactite and the rock above is hard to read from below, but leads to a great pocketed hold. I was keen to push the grade a bit as the rock was drying, so went for the 6b (Statement of Twilight Years) further right. Very muddy at the base, so cleaning the shoes and hands became an issue. Some damp hindered progress too, all of which wasn't ideal as the first clip is a long way up. From a ledge though, some good holds and long reaches lead to the clip, then some excellent technical and fingery climbing often involving high steps and intricate footwork. It is never desperate or overly strenuous, just off-vertical and lowish in the 6b grade. A satisfying onsight lead up small positive edges and flat holds, moving right to the lower-off. I took the opportunity to try the 6b+ to its right, which goes quite easily to a desperate final move which spat me off. A far more disjointed line: not as good as the easier but more sustained and continuous 6b. Hayley then led the f5 as the rain started again, so we left the crag. It was very early, so we parked in Llanddulas and walked up to the cave, a venue I've only visited once before. It was wet, even the subterranean routes inside the cave were seeping. Further right, the wall of white limestone looked extremely inviting but was damp, bordering on wet. Hayley picked her way up Lemon Crunch at f5, an absorbing task in these conditions - wet and slippery all the way up, but well bolted for a change. I had a look at the steeper routes further right, but they were far too wet and by now it was raining again so we slithered down the muddy paths back to the car.
Tuesday, May 05, 2015
Thurstaston MT race
Race: Thurstaston Multi-Terrain Challenge (6m)
Time/Position: 38.38 (15th from 143 [3rd V40])
I blew up disastrously on this race last year, really suffering in the last mile having got the pacing wrong. A complete contrast tonight: thoroughly enjoyed the excellent course, but started far too slowly, found myself well off the pace and finished 90 seconds slower than 2014. Perhaps next year I will finally pace it correctly! It's a great race, genuinely multi-terrain. A heavy shower passed over just before the start, but a very strong cross/headwind made life predictably tricky for the initial two mile run along the beach. Black clouds billowing over the Dee estuary and the Welsh hills. I was very conservative along the beach, but it is good fun skipping through the stones and deciding whether to opt for the wet sand. The route heads gently uphill through a housing estate before dipping into the woods and a rollercoaster ride along twisting paths and steep steps. All good fun. I was feeling pretty good, but this was probably just a result of my slow pace. After another tarmac section, the finish is along the seemingly endless Wirral cycle path that heads back to the reserve centre via some fields. Picked up a prize for 1st V40 but only by default!
Time/Position: 38.38 (15th from 143 [3rd V40])
I blew up disastrously on this race last year, really suffering in the last mile having got the pacing wrong. A complete contrast tonight: thoroughly enjoyed the excellent course, but started far too slowly, found myself well off the pace and finished 90 seconds slower than 2014. Perhaps next year I will finally pace it correctly! It's a great race, genuinely multi-terrain. A heavy shower passed over just before the start, but a very strong cross/headwind made life predictably tricky for the initial two mile run along the beach. Black clouds billowing over the Dee estuary and the Welsh hills. I was very conservative along the beach, but it is good fun skipping through the stones and deciding whether to opt for the wet sand. The route heads gently uphill through a housing estate before dipping into the woods and a rollercoaster ride along twisting paths and steep steps. All good fun. I was feeling pretty good, but this was probably just a result of my slow pace. After another tarmac section, the finish is along the seemingly endless Wirral cycle path that heads back to the reserve centre via some fields. Picked up a prize for 1st V40 but only by default!
Monday, May 04, 2015
Eglwyseg climbing
Crag: Pinfold, Eglwyseg
Routes: Toccata (VS 5a:sec), Phallic Tower (HVS 5a:sec), Marnie (HVS 4c:sec), Heloma Durum (f6a+:led), Calefaction (VS 4c:sec), Auto da Fe (S 4a:led)
I rarely do trad limestone these days, so Pinfold is not the ideal venue. But it is a lovely silent valley and I have happy memories of trips here in the early 90s (when it was a bit less polished). It's still a quiet place though, and we had the entire valley to ourselves on this Bank Holiday. Vic led old favourite Toccata to begin. I remembered this as a rather stiff VS, and my memory proved reliable! A polished and insecure start on slippery footholds leads to a jutting block in the crack. Overcoming this is supposedly the crux but actually gives an easy move on big holds. Phallic Tower had an insecure start, with all the action taking place at ankle damaging height, as is usual on this crag. So I was happy to remain passenger. Once the phallic tower is gained, the route goes easily up blocky limestone to the top. Marnie is top end HVS, not far off E1 5a. A hard start up an awkward wall leads to a step right into a lovely looking clean hanging groove. Once established in this, the route becomes easier - but the crack in the rather smooth groove is thin and not especially helpful. Very strong line though, and good climbing. Further left, beyond the gully, I led a semi-sports climb (two bolts) up the smooth wall right of the old HVS Exostosis. This was short, and lacked independence, but had a neat and quite technical (f6a+) move up the steep wall by the second bolt. A steep VS, Calefaction, held no memories for me, rather surprising. Quite tough for the grade, it goes up a crack to a small overhang. From a big undercut, you reach up for a nice jug, then expect to find another higher up. Instead, you have to make do with a flattish hold. I finished with a lead of an easy Severe up double cracks that I have done before.
Routes: Toccata (VS 5a:sec), Phallic Tower (HVS 5a:sec), Marnie (HVS 4c:sec), Heloma Durum (f6a+:led), Calefaction (VS 4c:sec), Auto da Fe (S 4a:led)
I rarely do trad limestone these days, so Pinfold is not the ideal venue. But it is a lovely silent valley and I have happy memories of trips here in the early 90s (when it was a bit less polished). It's still a quiet place though, and we had the entire valley to ourselves on this Bank Holiday. Vic led old favourite Toccata to begin. I remembered this as a rather stiff VS, and my memory proved reliable! A polished and insecure start on slippery footholds leads to a jutting block in the crack. Overcoming this is supposedly the crux but actually gives an easy move on big holds. Phallic Tower had an insecure start, with all the action taking place at ankle damaging height, as is usual on this crag. So I was happy to remain passenger. Once the phallic tower is gained, the route goes easily up blocky limestone to the top. Marnie is top end HVS, not far off E1 5a. A hard start up an awkward wall leads to a step right into a lovely looking clean hanging groove. Once established in this, the route becomes easier - but the crack in the rather smooth groove is thin and not especially helpful. Very strong line though, and good climbing. Further left, beyond the gully, I led a semi-sports climb (two bolts) up the smooth wall right of the old HVS Exostosis. This was short, and lacked independence, but had a neat and quite technical (f6a+) move up the steep wall by the second bolt. A steep VS, Calefaction, held no memories for me, rather surprising. Quite tough for the grade, it goes up a crack to a small overhang. From a big undercut, you reach up for a nice jug, then expect to find another higher up. Instead, you have to make do with a flattish hold. I finished with a lead of an easy Severe up double cracks that I have done before.
Sunday, May 03, 2015
Sussex run
Staying in Eastbourne for a wedding, I left the hotel on the seafront for a morning run to find distinctly unusual south coast conditions of driving rain and strong wind. I ran along the seafront into the headwind, dropping down to a tree-lined gravel path directly above the sea for a while. I continued west to pick up the start of the South Downs Way. I entered the mist after a few feet of climbing and felt at home - I might have been in the Moelwyns above Blaenau Ffestiniog rather than Beachy Head. I ran along the grassy clifftop path for a while but was wet and couldn't see a thing, so sprinted back to the hotel for a mini speed session.
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