Area: Jotunheimen, Norway
Almost certainly Norway's most famous mountain day, this attracts large numbers of tourists from all over the world. As such, it is the kind of thing I would usually studiously avoid, but there was obvious potential to do it on my own ahead of the crowds - partly because, not to put too fine a point on it, most of those doing it take a very long time! The usual time given is 6-8 (or even more) hours, so I thought I'd trot along and set a not-too-terrible geriatric time for it, with sub-3 an obvious basic target to aim for. It worked a treat. I got the first ferry from Gjendesheim across the lake to Memurubu, which was lovely and something I wanted to do anyway. Then it was back up the steep climb I'd done yesterday (and descended two days ago) despatching it in 28 minutes (for the 2k/440m climb to the tourists 'warning sign'). Then came the ridge, which was sheer delight. I was completely alone, miles ahead of the tourists from the very beginning, so could just enjoy it without prejudice. It is undeniably stunning, albeit so much lower than Besshoe that I would have found it very frustrating and unsatisfactory to have done it without first doing that dominant peak. The lake of Bjonblitjonne is the first feature, and the ridge begins to cohere here, just above it - whilst on the right, the stunning shimmering Gjende. The walls above the latter begin to steepen at this point. A broad rocky ridge then leads down to the most famous section, a little narrow neck of land between Gjende and then Bessvatnet on the left (the lake I had walked alongside yesterday). This is a really stunning spot, and it is entirely understandable that thousands of people want to see it. The cliffs plunge down to Gjende on the right, with Friday's peak Knutshoe far below. Bessvatnet is closer and higher on the left, with Besseggen looming as an impressive black peak, reminiscent of Skye, directly above. Then comes the scramble, up excellent rock, and for a short while this recalls Crib Goch. Very enjoyable, albeit a little short. At a platform, the steepness eases and the ridge loses some of its coherence. At a subpeak, the mist came down and I trotted across the now much broader plateau to Vestfjellet, the main summit in a light snow flurry (2c!). I got here in just under two hours, which didn't seem too bad. The descent from here is a bit trickier than I'd expected and still superb, albeit less spectacular that what had preceded it. It hugs the walls above Gjende with views down to Gjendesheim, which now becomes visible still far below (essentially the reverse of the view from the hut's lounge, which looks up to this point). A few little rock walls are surprisingly steep and there are a few chains at this point. A quick traverse gains the main path down to Gjendesheim which I was already familiar with. I ended up with a time of 2.45 for the 14k/1150m traverse, which I was quite satisfied with given that the pace was fairly relaxed and the terrain entirely rock underfoot. I was back well before midday, giving plenty of time to relax at Gjendesheim drinking coffee looking back at the ridge before my bus to Oslo at 3pm. It got very cold in a bitter wind later on.
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