Schrankogel

Peak: Schrankogel (3497m/11473ft)
Route: East Ridge (PD)
Area: Stubai Alps, Austria
Rather high for an acclimatisation peak, but the Schrankogel is a superb mountain that had the added advantage of getting us into the heart of the Stubai Alps before our planned ascent of the higher Wildspitze in the Otztal Alps later in the week. The two ranges are quite distinct, although both can be accessed from the main Otztal valley. We spent the night in the splendid Amberger Hut, which was wonderful in the way that only Austrian huts can be, and enjoyed a relative lie-in before breakfast at 6am. Fresh snow had fallen above 3000m so we packed a short rope as precaution, although I wore approach shoes throughout as there is no glacier to cross on this route. We moved up the broad and magnificent Sulztal valley, almost Himalayan in feel at this point, with the Sulztalferner glacier sunlit above. The sun had yet to reach us, and we made rapid progress up the side valley of the Schwarzenberg to the east. A steep ascent led to a superb path on top of a moraine which gave a wonderful mile or so of walking, as the sun began to light up the Mutterberger Seespitze and Schwarzenbergspitze across the valley. In the dim morning light, with a fallen signpost, I failed to spot the line of the normal route going up the south-west ridge. This was no bad thing, however, as the moraine path was truly wonderful and took us up to the Schwarzenberg glacier high above. Some rubbly material at the top of the moraine, dusty, steep and arduous for a while. Above, however, we arrived at a plateau with the east ridge towering above: clearly a much better and more interesting option than the normal route, plastered with a good few inches of fresh snow. The weather was absolutely superb: deep blue cloudless sky and crystal clarity in all directions. We were both going at our own pace, so I set off for the main ridge, enjoying the more solid slabby rock. The snow made things trickier in places, but there were no real difficulties: it was rather like a giant Crib Goch. The ridge tapers constantly until it becomes more exposed as the summit cross comes into view. The final section is quite narrow with a few awkward steps but leads quickly and directly to the summit (2.50 from the hut). The amazing and unusual clarity of light made this one of the best views I have ever had in the Alps, or anywhere. I shared the summit with a chap from Bavaria who helped me with some of the unfamiliar peaks. Close at hand, the pyramidal Schrandele, Zuckerhutl and Wilde Leck impressed, but the Schrankogel is so prominent that it is the highest point for miles around, so the main feeling was one of distant views stretching right across the Alps, from the Todi and Silvretta to the Gross Venediger and the distant Dolomites. The Wildspitze dominated the view to the south-west: a beautiful summit. I spent a long time gazing at the view until Vic arrived, and we eventually tore ourself away for the descent. This was awkward, long and tiring, and I was a tad annoyed that I'd failed to realise the obvious traverse option. But the moraine was equally good in descent and the sun-drenched Sulztal a wonderful place to linger as we neared the hut. Sadly, we'd run out of money, so had to scamper back to the car in Gries before a surprisingly lengthy hunt for valley accommodation in Langenfeld. We got it sorted in the end, however, and a fine meal of wild mushroom soup, Tyrol lamb and rosti restored some of the lost calories.

Oetz climbing

Crag: Oetz (Otztal, Tyrol, Austria)
Routes: Rampe (u6-/f5b:sec), Rechte Wand (u6/f5c:led), Mittlere Wand (u5/f5a:sec), Linke Wand (f6a:sec), Kante (u6/f5c:led)
After my morning jog up Kofel, we headed straight for the Otztal in improving weather. The plan was to walk in to the Amberger hut around 4pm, but over a late lunch in Oetz I spied what looked like a roadside crag. We immediately revised our plans to squeeze a brief climbing session in, and it worked perfectly - particularly after being rained off the crags this morning. Oetz is an unusual crag, right next to a busy road and immediately above an industrial wood processing plant: not the most tranquil venue! Oetz itself is at the head of the Otztal, our proposed 'home valley' and is surrounded by mountains. The routes were good: around 20m high on excellent solid granite, all well bolted and highly convenient. Our time was very limited so it could hardly have been more suitable. Rampe was a good line up an inset slab to a steep final wall, which is replete with sharp holds and much easier than it looks. I then moved to the slabby wall immediately right, a fine sweep of granite, and led the arete line of Rechte Wand. This was a good route, quite delicate in places, with crisp moves low down giving access to the juggy arete with a tricky move to finish on small holds. Slightly overgraded, not noticeably harder than the 5a line to its left. Vic led the Linke, which gave more technical climbing to a steep finish on awkward side pulls and unhelpful holds. Finally, I just had time to bag another arete line: this time Kante, which takes the edge of the Rampe slab. This was nice but overgraded: nowhere near f5c, it felt like a two star British Severe with lovely flowing moves on positive holds in a nice position on the edge. We packed the gear away quickly and headed up the valley to the elevated hamlet of Gries above Langenfeld, where we enjoyed a delightful walk-in to the Amberger Hut. A great start to the trip, varied and productive, particularly after heavy rain this morning. It improved further as we arrived at the hut with eight minutes to spare before dinner, by pure fluke. A three course meal, with a vast amount of meat, followed by beer and schnapps to ease digestion and prepare us for the Schrankogel tomorrow.

Kofel

Peak: Kofel (1342m/4403ft)
Area: Ammergau Alps, Germany
Although its dimensions are small, the sharp limestone spire of the Kofel is very much the signature peak of the famous Bavarian town of Oberammagau. It made an ideal short outing this morning, as our Alpine trip got off to a soggy start and Sunday's long race was still in my legs. Vic had some things to sort out, so I set off alone from our excellent pension near the station in the middle of town, jogging along the river in the rain as the limestone spire of Kofel intermittently emerged from the mist directly above. An Alpine meadow lies above the car park and leads to broad zigzags as the forest is reached. Dank and atmospheric in these conditions: I had it virtually to myself, unsurprisingly. The forest was wreathed in mist and the zigzags gave good running up to the Kofelsattel, an obvious col below the final summit spire. A short level path leads to the spire (the Kofelsteig), which is a polished limestone scramble, easy and replete with chains. A short traverse leads to stepped rock, then a slabby open groove to the summit (less than an hour from the hotel). A brief clearance gave views of Ettal and I could hear cowbells below, but most of the time the Bavarian landscape was obscured by low cloud. It stopped raining, at least, and I jogged down under dripping trees with some spectacular clearances as I neared the bottom of the forest. We abandoned plans to climb nearby, and headed instead into Austria, over the Fernpass and a late lunch in Oetz as the weather began to gradually improve.

Stretton Skyline

Race: Stretton Skyline (31km/4500ft)
Time/Position: 3.33.46 (40th from 79)
Multiple races going on this weekend, and it was a little tricky to decide on the best choice. Caernarfon 10k would have been a more sensible option, but, mindful of the forthcoming Mourne Mountain Marathon I thought it might be a good idea to return to the Stretton Skyline for the first time since 2009. It emphatically was not, and I limped home a staggering 33 minutes slower than seven years ago! Having said that, it was at least a sociable option and I enjoyed the day (most of it anyway). It began well, jogging up from Carding Mill Valley with Peter and running with him along to Pole Bank at the top of the Long Mynd. The descent to the road is glorious, and well remembered from 2009: a sweeping series of ridge tracks and contouring paths leads to the village of Little Stretton. The steep climb up Ragleth that follows is probably the hardest climb on the race, but I felt reasonably fresh at this point and overtook a few runners towards the top. Great running on the ridge towards Caradoc before the descent. Here, things started to go wrong! Seven years is a long time, and I couldn't remember the best route down to the next checkpoint in Church Stretton. I took the left-hand path through the woods, which takes much longer, and was passed by at least ten runners, ending up behind a big group as I started the climb up Caer Caradoc. This was rather demoralising, but worse was to follow as I began to lose energy on Caradoc. A few slices of fudge didn't help much, and the rest of the day was a real struggle, the first time I have really suffered on a long fell race for a good few years. The descent from Caradoc to the Lawley gave some respite, and takes in some delightful countryside, but the long out and back to the Lawley was slow again. Returning to the A49, I knew what lay ahead: the climax of the race up the never-ending Motts Road back to the top of the Long Mynd. With good legs, this gentle gradient can be run efficiently. Drained of energy, it is a bit of a nightmare and I lost at least 15 places as I limped up the gentle slopes, literally walking most of the descent back down Carding Mill Valley to the finish in Church Stretton. Shame not to do this great race justice: not sure what the problem was, so will have to use the feeble excuse of a bad night's sleep!

Elidir Fawr race

Race: Ras Elidir Fawr (5m/3000ft)
Time/Position: 1.09.44 (11th from 48)
An exhilarating, classic horseshoe, staged during the last couple of hours of daylight on a September evening: all rather memorable. As with the Cnicht race on Saturday, this is one of very few Welsh mountain races that I've never done. I think it has been absent from the calendar from time to time, but staging it in the evening at this time of year seems like a great idea. The climb is, of course, pretty hard: familiar to most people because of the standard Welsh 3000s route. Although there are some short sections of respite, they are very short and in essence it's a continuous 3000ft slog from the village of Nant Peris. I didn't feel especially sharp after an afternoon of constant slate climbing, although a tailwind helped in places. Some rain, and mist playing round the summit, which I reached in 40 minutes. The descent is familiar from Pedol Peris: steep, rocky and technical initially, then a few grassy sections allow for quicker running until the path begins to contour round the top of Cwm Dudodyn below Foel Goch. The long, looping descent is absolutely superb: reminding me a bit of the Waun Fach race. Very fast, into a headwind with the light beginning to fade and mist swirling around Crib Goch and Cwm Glas across the Pass. I picked up a few places, then the route follows the spur on the opposite side of Cwm Dudodyn (indeed, it is perhaps more accurate to describe the race as the Dudodyn horseshoe). This gets rocky at the end of the spur, then steep and fast down to the cwm and back to Nant Peris. Across the river, then across a field to the finish for bara brith. Later, a pint and a good meal in the Faenol Arms rounded off an excellent evening: an appropriate start to what will be a busy September.

Llanberis slate climbing

Crag: Never Never Land, Llanberis Slate
Routes: Titan (f4c:led), Zeus (f6a+:led), Operation Zig Zag (f5c:sec), The Gargoyle (f6a+:led), Octogenarian (f5b:sec), Learning to Fly (f5a:sec), Fresh Air (f6a:sec)
I like to have at least one session on slate each year and, when I do, always think I should go more often as I really enjoy it as a climbing medium. We were planning to combine a few slate climbs with the Elidir Fawr race this evening, so were quite late setting off in the afternoon. We headed from Dinorwig down to the brilliantly named Medusa's Lair: an enclosed gorge of slate right of the main Never Never Land slab. This sheltered us from some of the wind, but it remained cold, cloudy and windy all day. We all led the easy but worthwhile Titan as a warm-up: this takes a series of well defined grooves on the right of the wall. I then led Zeus at 6a+, a good route deserving a star. Steeper than the average low grade slate climb, some nice crisp moves lead up the wall to a pronounced crux. I initially attempted this to the left up tenuous smears before moving right where a few pulls on small holds gain a huge jug and easy climbing to the finish. Slightly soft for the grade but the grading here is at least more accurate than some of the absurdly overgraded new routes nearby. Mick then led a rather scruffy route, supposedly 5c, up the blunt arete of dolerite which leads to a slab. This was pleasant enough but massively overgraded: it would be 4 in Provence. Emerging from the gorge, I led The Gargoyle, also at f6a+. This is an interesting and varied route, slightly unnerving in places. It takes an easy slab to good moves left round the obvious arete before a very sharp and balancey crux move to gain the 'gargoyle', a jutting piece of slate below a hanging groove. The expected jug isn't there, so pinch holds and a high step are needed to straddle the feature (a novel and vaguely alarming move) and pull up into the groove. It remains awkward above, but not hard. Mick led two simple routes on the main face, both massively overgraded (really f4) and Vic finished with the pleasant detached slab of Fresh Air, which I've led a couple of times before. We just had time for the dash down to Nant Peris and a coffee before the second part of the afternoon began.

Cnicht race

Race: Ras y Cnicht (4.5m/1850ft)
Time/Position: 46.14 (14th from 64)
Because this race clashes with the Cilcain mountain race, which I did every year for a decade from 2003, I've never done it before. After 'retiring' from Cilcain, I then did the Wild Wales cycling event on the same day, so Cnicht remained one of the very few North Wales mountain races 'unticked'. I have walked up the peak numerous times from Croesor, however, and always thought that the race must be a classic 'up and down' from the village. It is indeed, with steep tarmac giving way to the track through beautiful oak woodland. Then a bit of a respite as the path winds up the lower slopes towards the conical summit that gives it the hackneyed 'Welsh Matterhorn' nickname. I felt reasonably good initially, but slowed a bit towards the top of the approach slopes which are inevitably steeper than they first appear! From here, the route becomes rocky until you reach the scrambly chimney with gives access to the summit. It was misty for this top section, which limited route choice on the descent. I suspect detailed local knowledge might yield some racing lines, but as it was I stuck to the main route including the chimney which is obviously fairly hazardous to descend. All rather slow until gaining the grassier lower section. Having said that, I gained a place and finished reasonably quickly. A few seconds over 30 minutes to the summit, 15 back down to the finish. We then enjoyed the novelty of the slate swimming pool 'ice bath' in the village: I managed full submersion and two widths!

Chwarel Penrhyn climbing

Crag: Chwarel Bach y Penrhyn (Penrhyn Bay)
Routes: Cobra (f4:sh), Sidewinder (f3:sol/sh), Sidewinder variant (f5:sh), One-Eyed Trouser Snake (f4:sol/sh)
A minor venue indeed! Certainly not a crag to make a special trip to, but ideal for my purposes today with just an hour to spare first thing in the morning. The Twin Piers 10k goes right past this obscure quarry but it is so small it is barely noticeable from the dual carriageway over the Little Orme. It is reasonably high though, 15m or so. The routes are quite easy but characterised by rather smooth limestone and sloping holds. The two harder routes through the obvious overhang are not really feasible on shunt, with one hard move low down, so I did some variants on the other routes instead. The two on the left are slabby and easy, with a better line taking the obvious groove with a borehole on the right.

Aber-Bwlch y Ddaefaen-Cae Coch-Sychnant-Conwy

I felt too sluggish for my planned reprise of the Capel Curig-Conwy traverse, so after a family walk in Betws I got dropped off at the coast near Abergwyngregyn and ran to Bwlch y Ddaefaen. From here, I joined the Penmaenmawr fell race route, turning off at Cae Coch then continuing all the way down the fantastic gently descending track to the Sychnant Pass where I took some obscure paths and extended the run somewhat. More wonderful weather, particularly towards the end of the run. On Friday, I did a slightly shorter version of the North Wales half marathon route over Sychnant to Penmaenmawr then back via the coastal cycle path to the Morfa.

Conwy valley climbing

Crag: Penmaenbach Quarry
Routes: Smart A55 (f3+:led)
Crag: Clogwyn Cyrau
Routes: The Groove (VD:led), Siencyn (S:sec), Sion (S:sec)
In tutorial mode with E and M, who had both agreed to accompany me climbing. We walked to Penmaenbach first from Sychnant in more glorious late summer weather, the heather and gorse in full bloom and the sea calm and deep blue below. I led the obvious slabby groove right of the delicate 6a arete that I did last year. Both children followed easily, and M also got up the slab further right with a tricky start. Plas y Brenin then arrived, rather spoiling the atmosphere, so we headed back to Conwy. Later that week, we did a bit more climbing at Clogwyn Cyrau: a few easy routes in light rain. Both children enjoyed it without being overly enthusiastic.

Conwy climb and run

Crag: Conwy Mountain Slab
Routes: Left-Hand Crack (VD:sol), Oaklands (S:sol), Central Crack (M:sol)
In Conwy for a few days, so indulged in my usual jog up Mynydd y Dref in glorious late afternoon sunshine an hour or two after arriving. I paused to pad up and down a few routes on the slab, lovely in the warm sunshine, before continuing to the top and the usual great views over the Orme, sea and Carneddau.

Birchwood 10k

Race: Birchwood 10k (Warrington)
Time/Position: 36.59 (29th from 1012 [4th V45])
As the family enjoyed combining this race with an Ikea visit last year, it seemed a good opportunity to repeat it. But having blown up very badly over the last 5k and recorded my slowest 10k time for years in 2015, I started very slowly this year, conscious that I never do speedwork (or road races) over summer and so can't hope to hold any kind of pace. This worked reasonably well, and I enjoyed the race more this year: but my finishing time was inevitably slow given the plodding pace, only marginally better than 2015. Very well organised race, which goes past the front of the Warrington campus at one point. It has never seemed a particularly quick course to me though, with lots of twists and turns, and a few long drags.

Clogwyn Cyrau climbing

Crag: Clogwyn Cyrau (Betws y Coed)
Routes: Conwy Corner (S:sec), Long Climb Direct (S:led), Central Route/Long Climb (HS:sec), Bomber's Wall Route Route One (HS 4b,4b:led p.1)
A little tired after the last few days, and my early start, so Vic's suggestion of Clogwyn Cyrau sounded like a good idea. I've done all these routes before, but that is not always a bad thing and lent a welcome relaxed air to the morning. The beautiful morning turned into a perfect August day, with wonderful views over Siabod from the top of the crag with the heather and rowan in full bloom: unusual clarity for the time of year. Conwy Corner is a nice line with mild bridging, probably the third time I've done it. A predictably overgrown descent path, followed by a walk to the main crag where I kicked off with Long Climb Direct: this is a nice 30m pitch up a steepish corner to an old oak tree before a slabby and easy finish. Vic set off up Central Climb, but ended up traversing right along the original Long Climb instead: I did exactly the same thing when trying to lead this hard to follow VS a few years ago. After lunch, we finished with Bomber's Wall where I led the nice first pitch up a rib to a thread, then a broad groove with some tricky moves to a sapling. Easy ground leads to a huge flake belay. Above, Vic led the enjoyable finishing groove. There are two independent versions of this route - I've certainly done it before, but couldn't quite remember which version! Hot and sweaty by now, so the dappled woodland descent gave a welcome cool-down.

Ffestiniog climbing

Crag: Carreg y Foel Gron (Ffestiniog)
Routes: Elephant's Crawl (VD:sol), Cracked Slab (VD:solbr), Tiger Feet (VS 4b:sh)
Woke up at 6am after a pleasant night at Llyn Dubach and, after a cuppa and some porridge headed up to Carreg y Foel Gron which looms above the lake and is very obvious from the Ffestiniog road. Despite that, I've never actually climbed here before. It is used by outdoor centres, I think, but is surprisingly unpolished and reminiscent of the main Moelwyn crags to the west. That means that it is riddled with lovely incut holds and pockets, with gentle slabs ideal for solo entertainment. I nipped up the inset slab to the right of the main crag to begin: easy but enjoyable out towards the arete on the right. After a downclimb, I took the precaution of setting up a backrope on the main slab before abbing off and nipping up Cracked Slab. This is a nice varied 30m pitch at the grade: up a steepish but juggy crack to a trickier move over an overlap. I popped a clove hitch on the backrope for the final few moves up the finishing slab: with the early morning sunshine just beginning to warm the face. I used the shunt for the harder line of Tiger Feet which goes directly up the slab further right - delicate to start - then finishes more steeply over a bulge with one tricky move right at the top. I then jogged round to the hidden upper tier with fantastic early morning views over Llyn Morwynion and Cwm Cynfal to the Rhinogydd and Llyn peninsula. Some of the arete lines looked great but there are no belays at all above most of the routes, so with regret I jogged back to the car for a wonderful drive down the minor road to Cwm Penmachno then Betws. Wonderful views in more perfect weather, and a delightful riverside breakfast at Pont y Pair while I waited for the second part of the day.

Yr Arddu climbing

Crag: Lliwedd Bychan (Yr Arddu)
Routes: Heather Gully (D:sol), Central Route (VD:sh), Orthin (HS 4b:sh), Eastern Route (S:sol/sh), Right Gully Rim (D:sol), Left Gully Rim (D:sol)
I last drove up the single track road from Gwynant to Nantmor in 1989, but only remembered quite how narrow it is when I was an irreversible mile in to it. After lengthy shenanigans and a ludicrous encounter with a steam roller I arrived at Coed Dolfnog south of Buarthau and began what I suspected might be a tenuous walk-in to the somewhat obscure crags of Yr Arddu. The narrow path, marked on the map, is navigable initially through the superb oak woodland. Above this, however, the wet summer had rendered it essentially impassable. I followed the wall above the woods first, but gave up in extraordinary neck-deep ferns. I've experienced this kind of thing all too often, however, so persisted higher up the western side of Yr Arddu. It got worse as I tried to contour round to the obvious wall that heads east to the crags: heather, bogs, ferns, thistles. I lost my water bottle in the chaos: cue dehydration to add to the fun. It was as bad as anything I've experienced in a lifetime of this sort of nonsense, including the northern Rhinogs, and my legs were still a bit tired after yesterday's race. After a steep climb, much blood and torn clothing, the terrain got better (just bog and waist deep ferns) and a tiny path led to Lliwedd Bychan. This gave a splendid couple of hours entertainment, a 30m slabby crag ideal for the solo wanderer with superb views to Cnicht, Moelwynion and Traeth Lafan: perfect weather, warm sunshine and crystal clear clarity throughout. The sun had just left the face as I plotted my way up the delightfully simple Heather Gully, then abbed off for Central Route (partially shunted), which takes a gently sustained line up the face on sharp little holds. Good consistent pitch at the grade. Orthin was a tad more technical, with good 4b moves over a bulge at the top, then I moved the backrope a little. Eastern Route is probably the most obvious actual line: taking a slab to a shallow corner, then steeper moves trending left to the top. Two easy solos completed the fun. My plan was then to run up Cnicht, but the walk-in (and the fact that I didn't start until nearly 4pm having spent most of the day at work) put paid to that. Instead I bushwhacked my way out, shedding more blood and sweat, and plunged my head into the stream above the woods, drinking deeply with huge relief. After a wash in the River Nantmor next to the car, I retired for fish and chips in Penrhyndaedraeth then a peaceful night next to Llyn Dubach in the moors between Llan Ffestiniog and Penmachno, the ancestral home. A full moon rising over Arenig and beautiful pink sunset made up for the midges.

Two Hillforts race

Race: Two Hillforts fell race (9.3m/2000ft)
Time/Position: 71.04 (8th from 104)
Since this race was launched a couple of years ago, I assumed it was a version of the now defunct Tavern Trail or Lletty. It actually takes quite a different route around the northern end of the Clwydian range and is a very runnable route. So runnable, in fact, that I went off far too quickly, thinking any remaining road pace might push me up the field. In reality, I couldn't hold the pace and blew as soon as the route steepened below Pen y Cloddiau. From Llandyrnog, the route goes across fields to the road taken by the Vale of Clwyd 10k. This continues much further up before breaking off for a steep path that I couldn't remember running before. This takes a direct line to the Pen y Cloddiau car park. Superb level running around the side of that hill before a short, steep climb gains the summit. I know this area well, and love the descent down OD towards Moel Arthur. I was in fifth place at this point, but knew the game was up as we started the climb to Arthur, paying the price for the quick start and lack of recent speed work. From the top of Moel Arthur, a very long but not too steep descent to Llandyrnog awaits, taking the road and long contouring bridleway. Theoretically ideal, but I was still blowing badly and really struggled: ended up being passed by three and finishing eighth.

Minera climbing

Crag: Minera Quarry
Routes: Easy Grooves (f4c:led), The Quartz Slab (f6a:led), Thin Grey Wall (f6c:led), Narrow Arete (f6a+:led), Hard Start (f6a+:sec), Quartz Wall variant (f6b:sec)
It is a shame that this venue is so small and limited, as the climbing is quite good and it is only a 20 minute drive from my front door. This was a brief but enjoyable session ticking the remainder of the crag after my initial visit last week. We moved systematically from right to left: beginning with the very easy but pleasant line of shallow grooves. Gentle but nice. The Quartz Slab to its left was more delicate with nice technical moves leading to a superb but tiny quartz slab: if this went on for 50ft it would be a classic. As it is, two crisp moves on incut holds gets you to the top. Virtually all the routes on the crag are overgraded, a common issue with UK sports routes, and the Thin Grey Wall was no exception. Supposedly f6c, it is indeed quite technical with some intricate moves, but nowhere near 6c, which is my leading limit. I led this clean and onsight. Good friction, small footholds and neat edging up to an awkward rockover on to a long thin ledge. Nicely sustained, probably more like 6a+. Narrow Arete gives another pleasant climb, up the eponymous feature via some technical moves on small holds. Again, never particularly hard, probably 5+. The route to its left is steep to start, as its name suggests, and looks disjointed: but is quite good again. I climbed Quartz Wall from the same lower-off so moved left at the top to avoid the pendulum (and therefore the full tick). Good rough limestone: if only the crag was twice as high and six times as long.

Glyder Fach climbing

Crag: Glyder Fach
Routes: Hawk's Nest Arete (VS 4c,4a:led p.2), Needle's Eye Climb (VD:led p.1), Route II (VD:led p.1)
What was intended to be a day of cragging on high 'summer' cliffs turned into a classic mountaineering day out incorporating not one, but two traditional chimney pitches. This was largely because of bad weather: with strong winds, swirling mist and intermittent drizzle throughout. I used to climb on Glyder Fach a lot, and have ticked most of the lower grade classics. One such, fondly remembered, is Hawk's Nest Arete, which I did with Tim in the 90s. Vic hadn't done it, so we took the hour-long slog past Bochlwyd up to the detached buttress, right of the main crag, and he led it in high winds. It was cold on the fingers, which isn't ideal on this route, which has a surprisingly delicate crux. It looks much harder from below and is a very elegant line. Easy, juggy climbing up to a large block, before a steeper crack leads to a surprisingly hard crux using sidepulls and small holds to gain jugs above. It remains thought provoking above, with a thin finger crack leading to a ledge. All made much harder today by strong winds and cold fingers. A little drizzle in the air at times to add to the fun. The second pitch, my lead, is far easier but was wet and a bit dirty in places. It takes a wide and slightly thrutchy crack to gain a side crack and the top. The descent is complex but quite absorbing and atmospheric, particularly now that the mist had descended and was swirling round the pinnacles and gullies that characterise this part of the crag. We traversed over to Dolmen buttress and then intricately down Central Gully with some caution. After some lunch, I merged the first two pitches of Needle's Eye Climb. This was an obvious choice for two reasons: it is enclosed and out of the increasingly strong wind, and I hadn't done it before. The first pitch goes up a juggy slab to a mantelshelf which gains the top of the initial chimney. Then easy and vegetated climbing up to a clean rib. The next pitch is ungradeable and pretty memorable. Somewhat reminiscent of other famous thrutches like Monolith Crack and the Chasm, but essentially unique. A slab leads to a delicate traverse towards the wide crack behind a pinnacle (this is the 'needle'). It is impossible to get through this initially, even for skinny people. The only solution is to strenuously udge up the crack, with one leg 'cycling' up the outside wall. Eventually it becomes possible to squeeze through the crack to gain the cave beyond like a cork popping out of a bottle! The route keeps coming in this traditional vein, up a pinnacle and several cracks to the top. The mist swirled round and the drizzle got a bit heavier, so we continued the Victorian theme, starting to really enjoy and embrace the unexpected mountaineering ethos of the day. We traversed over to Dolmen Buttress. I have never climbed here before, one of the highest crags in Snowdonia. I led the easy classic of Route II: the first pitch goes up a fine clean slab on jugs. It is exposed for the grade, traversing out to the edge of the slab initially. From the mid-height platform, Vic then led the ultra-traditional top pitch up a very atmospheric chimney in the mist and rain. This goes easily at first, to gain the dank, cave-like interior. Then a back and foot thrutch, during which I tore my coat and dropped my nut key into the depths of the cave. From the top of an internal pinnacle, an easy traverse left allows for an escape to be made! Slightly reminiscent of Great Gully on Craig yr Ysfa: an esoteric little gem despite its lowly grade. Another complex descent, made more problematic by the fact that we were higher on the crag: tricky downclimb to gain Central Gully. Then directly down to boggy Bochlwyd and the car.

Castle Inn climbing

Crag: Castle Inn Quarry
Routes: Indian Summer (f6a:led), As You Like It (f6b+:sec), Conan the Libertarian (f5+:led), October Premiere (f5+:sec), Conan Eliminate (f6a:sec), Hidden Gem (f3+:sol), Route 2 (f6a:sec)
Having visited this crag dozens of times over many years, it's not surprising that there are only a few gaps left. One such is As You Like It, a tough 6b+ over the obvious bulge on the Fine View wall. We prepared for this by taking turns to lead Indian Summer for a warm up: always enjoyable, edging up the wall on small pockets and tiny ledges, good rough limestone. The sun came out and prospects looked good for Dave's lead of the 6b+. Vic and I followed, knowing that it is a hard route to onsight and keenly aware of my current lack of forearm strength. A steep slab with some good moves leads to an undercut and good moves right to where the route steepens. The last 5 metres of the climb contain most of the action: continuously steep and pumpy, leading to the crux at the final bolt, which requires a high step to a sloping foothold then a kind of layaway to a final jug. Very strenuous, draining climbing which took a couple of attempts to get right. Big lactic build-up, which was hard to shake off, although I felt OK for my next lead up the 5+ of Conan. After some lunch, we all took turns at various eliminates on this side wall, hot sunshine now, before finishing with the old favourite of Route 2 up the centre of the main face. I have done this route many times over several decades and always remember the crux moves up to a tiny pinched stalactite. Technical rather than strenuous, thank goodness.

Ponderosa fell race

Race: Ponderosa (4m/800ft)
Time/Position: 29.27 (7th from 94 [1st Veteran])
My slowest time ever on this course, but also probably my highest finish. Possibly an illustration of the effects of a strong headwind on the descent, or maybe just a weaker field than usual. The weather is often unseasonal on this race, which I have done around six times. Always a very tricky race to judge: it is so short, and the climb up to the top of Cyrn y Brain so quick (around 8 minutes) that it is inevitably quite intense from the start line, but you can't slacken off much as it is hard to overtake on the very long descent which contours the lovely but boggy hillside above Eglwyseg. Blustery with some rain for this section. The final climb, after such a long and fast descent, is always pretty desperate and today was no exception. I was catching the guy in front but couldn't quite find the strength to get past him. Got a prize for first in category: a first for me on this particular race.

Minera climbing

Crag: Minera Quarry
Routes: The Calch (f6b+:sec), Open Grey Groove (f4:led), Blocky Wall (f6a:sec)
After a frustrating half hour searching for the lower quarry, we eventually emerged at a windy and drizzly upper quarry. This has one broken but fairly impressive crag, the one that is obvious from the World's End road above Minera: I've often noticed it in passing but have never investigated further. This crag now houses two routes, one of which is The Calch at f6b+. Andy led this, with Hayley and I following. Given my lack of climbing this year, this was hardly the ideal route to get back into it. It was steep and fairly technical higher up, although did give a few decent rests (which helped). A broken lower wall leads to a dirty ledge, then much better climbing up flowstone features reminiscent of a steeper Castle Inn. A juggy crack leads to a few rounded pillars, then steep and technical moves to gain a wider upper scoop. I went too far right initially and messed up the sequence, inevitably fighting failing strength (as well as the light rain that was falling!). After this, with time running out before this evening's Ponderosa race down the road, we finally located the undistinguished Lower Quarry. I led the very easy Grey Groove on unpolished black limestone and we finished off with the overgraded Blocky Wall before zooming round to the Ponderosa to enter the race in the nick of time.

Esterel-Mont Vinaigre loop

Peaks: Mont Vinaigre
Area: Esterel, Provence
This was the second long run I'd done during our week in the Esterel. I've run up Mont Vinaigre from the caravan before (seven years ago, incredibly). It is not that far as the crow flies, although it looks distant from the swimming pool, but it is problematised by the lack of a simple approach. Tracks lead everywhere in the Esterel, and I have a reasonable knowledge of them, but there is no simple way of approaching Vinaigre from the south. On Wednesday, I had a mini-epic after taking the long contouring path above the Vallon Olivier attempting to join the GR51 but eventually running out of time. I then took several different paths on the western slopes of Malpey before dropping down to an untracked side valley. This was temporarily appalling, crashing through the maquis and boulders to eventually gain the dry stream bed at the valley bottom. Scratched and bruised, the stream bed was better but still blocked with fallen trees and boulders at various points: all a reminder of how wild the Esterel is in some corners. Eventually the side valley emerged in the main N-S (broadly) valley and I made good progress back to the site. Today, I made a more concerted effort to get the navigation right. It was another 6am start, beautiful high pink clouds well before the sunrise: wonderful ambience as ever, nobody around. I went straight for Carrefour Castelli, down to the bridge, then the steep climb to the derelict Maison Forestiere which is right in the centre of the range, perhaps the most remote spot of all. From here, a superb path contours the hillside then heads due north for Mont Vinaigre: superb running in the early morning. It emerges on the Route des Cols, forcing you onto a long detour west along the metalled road to finally pick up the GR51 which leads more steeply to the top. Surprisingly lengthy: 100 minutes or so from the caravan. Views were stupendous, the best I have ever had in scores of visits to Esterel summits. Cloud was gradually clearing from the valleys, lending superb foreground views with distant summits poking through. Wonderful, although bizarrely I had to share the summit with a four-piece female choir singing soft spiritual tunes as the sun rose. I fear I ruined their special moment, dripping with sweat and downing two cereal bars in quick succession. My plan was to continue along the GR51, but I felt too tired, so went back a similar way via a few short variations. Back in time for the bakery opening and the usual breakfast.

Dramont climbing

Crag: Cap Dramont, Esterel
Routes: Slab Route 1 (f3+:sol), Slab Route 2 (f3+:sol), Slab Route 3 (f3+:sol), Slab Route 4 (f3+:sol)
Just a short play around on the easy slab above the sea that I have enjoyed on previous occasions. It is a family venue really, but works well in conjunction with bouldering on the steeper side and the combination of bouldering and coasteering that is possible in some of the steeper calanques closer to Tiki beach.

Castelli mountain bike loop

MTB route: Perthus/Castelli loop (30k/800m)
Area: Esterel
I've wanted to do some proper mountain biking in the Esterel for years. This wasn't really that, but it was at least a brief taster. The campsite has purchased decent bikes for hire, with good suspension, so we all hired them and left the site around 9.30. We did a version of my favourite 'Perthus' running route (done as a fartlek loop on Sunday) but tagged on a few extra sections to expand on the route we did last time we hired bikes four years ago when the children were far smaller! They still found it hard going in the heat though. I had an embarrassing crash almost immediately, testing the breaks on an off road section! Lost some motor function in my thumb for a week as a result. Steady climbing past Roussiveau, then a break at the shady Gorge du Perthus. From the Col de Mistral, we headed off-road for a bit, towards the Pic de l'Ours, but Kate didn't enjoy it much. So we headed back down via the viewpoint above the Col de Belle Barbe: this looks out over the Ecureille valley and involved another off-road section. Back via the cycle path, after which I went on a long extension down to the Carrefour Castelli, all off road, then along the Castelli piste back to Roussiveau and then back to the campsite. There is a very long marked MTB circuit of the Esterel: one for the next visit.

Pic de Bena

Peaks: Pic de Bena (1794m)
Area: Eastern Pyrenees, France
My luck ran out this morning, with bad weather sweeping in to the Pyrenees. My window for action was even shorter than usual, as we were planning to leave for the long drive to Montpellier at 9.30am! But, I hoped to take in some of the 'Scottish-style' peaks above Puymorens first and got up at first light to do just that. Driving up the valley, however, it was immediately apparent that the weather had turned: black clouds with a low base, and a strong wind. I decided that the only option was a much lower peak, and consulted the map to find an ideal option just above our 'home' border village of Enveitg. A tiny lane led up to a beautiful high plateau above the Cerdagne, dotted with orange granite boulders, part of the same terrain we had enjoyed on our family outing yesterday. Pic de Bena is quite distinctive from the plateau: like a volcanic cone. On closer inspection, however, it is more of a long spur thrown down from the higher peaks further north like Pic Pedra. I just went for the main Tour de Carlit path which curves to the east around Pic de Bena from Mas Franca. I was a bit tired after recent exertions, but it was a delightful gentle run and an excellent choice in the prevailing weather. Dark clouds remained on the horizon, but here all was calm with a spectacular dawn sunburst emerging from the clouds. Puigmal and the border peaks beyond the wide Cerdagne valley were still clear. I emerged at a meadow with more of those wonderful boulders (this area has a lifetime of options for the keen boulderer, with rock of the highest quality). I ploughed up to the highpoint, where I was immediately attacked by red flying ants: hundreds of them. This sent me scurrying back to the main path, where I ran up to the Devesa de Bena before the return trip back to the plateau. Back at the gite by 9am, after which we drove to Montpellier via a rainy Conflent, followed by a sunny picnic as we left the mountains at Prades and the weather improved dramatically.

Pic Carlit

Peaks: Pic Carlit (2921m)
Area: Eastern Pyrenees, France
Back in the Pyrenees for the first time since 1997, so it was nice to be able to get up this famous peak, probably the most notable summit in the gentler eastern part of the range. I still have fond memories of trips to the central part of the Pyrenees in 1997 and 1993, when we climbed lots of the big summits like Posets, Balaitous, Vignemale, Pic du Midi, Pic d'Arriel. The landscape further east is less dramatic but still typically Pyrenean with the usual exquisite blend of water, wood and mountain. We had driven over the Col de Puymorens to Andorra yesterday, and it was only 20 minutes or so from our gite in Enveitg so it seemed the obvious place to start. I didn't realise that Carlit is a considerably tougher undertaking from this side (compared to the east). It made for a long, but mainly runnable outing. The forecast was for rain later, so my usual early start seemed even more prudent than normal. The route is not easy to follow from this side, clearly much less popular, and requires the linkage of a few different paths. I started from Font Viva in the Lanos Valley, following a steep path along a stream to the beautiful Estany (lake) de Font Viva. I missed the tiny path up the hill that should have gained the main GR7 route to the Lanos lake, however. This was understandable, as it was tiny and unmarked, an illustration of how unconventional this route up Carlit is. Instead, I had to undertake an initially desperate slog up steep, wet slopes of rock and deep grass due north from Font Viva. A tiring start, although once I emerged on the GR7 all was forgiven. The path forms part of the Tour du Carlit traverse and gave a memorable level run all the way to the Estany de Lanos, poised hundreds of metres above the valley with views across to Coll Roig. The sun appeared behind Carlit and onward prospects looked good: magnificent running in a superb environment. The onward route was complex, but I got it right, north-east up an initially confusing series of beautiful miniature valleys with typical Pyrenean scenery of little pine copses and waterfalls. These led to isolated Estany dels Forats. From here, the final climb up Carlit is bleakly obvious: it takes a steep and shattered broad couloir to the summit. In fact, although it was predictably hard it gave a break from running and I found a more solid spiky rib left of the gully which gave good scrambling at around II+. Eventually I was forced back into the gully, and took its shifting screes towards a short final scramble round the top of a gully to the summit ridge. More short-lived scrambling led to the top and great views east over the lakes that make up the more usual ascent route. It took two hours to get up from Font Viva despite running most of it, an illustration of the length of the route, plus my mistake (and fatigue!). A strong wind blew, and some cloud passed over but the summit remained clear. It was far from the perfect clarity earlier in the week, but still not bad at all. In fact, contrary to the forecast, the weather improved as I descended to give some superbly photogenic conditions. The little valleys formed an idyllic foreground to views of Pic Pedros and Puig de Coma d'Or. I made good time on the descent and thoroughly enjoyed it. I was hungry by the time we had lunch in the weird enclave of Llivia, then a second picnic above Targassone, in a superb wild flower meadow looking down on the Cerdagne. A family walk up the Val d'Angoustrina finished me off.

Gallina Pelada

Peaks: Cap de Gallina Pelada (2327m)
Area: Serra d'Ensija, Catalonia
This is the highpoint of the range of rounded green hills that forms the western wall of the valley enclosing Saldes and our campsite. It gave a perfect quick outing before we left the Cadi-Moixero park (with some regret in my case!). A small road winds up the lower slopes of the Serra d'Ensija from the Col de Trappa above Saldes, and I set off running from the road just below Font Freda. Scented pine forests lead to a dry riverbed or storm channel. Then steep scree eventually gains beautiful green meadows with scattered dwarf pine trees (Les Planelles). This landscape characterises the Serra d'Ensija: and Pedraforca is an ever-present object across the valley. The meadows were runnable, although I went much too far left initially. This was no problem though, as it was all delightful, and I eventually gained a giant limestone plateau with sinkholes and rolling low hills. Superb running led to the Refugi Delgado Ubeda, with Gallina Pelada above. In some ways the terrain was reminiscent of the Clwydians, certainly just as runnable and I made good progress to gain the broad ridge up to the summit. The light was very different to yesterday. Gone was the crystal clear clarity, to be replaced by a beautiful soft orange glow: sunny but with a very thin layer of cloud. Distant views were hazy, but the Cadi range and Pedraforca were clear, and the Serra d'Ensija close at hand was bathed in that soft sunshine. It was still very early, so I had a bit of cheese and chorizo on the summit before pelting down in a superb 35 minute downhill blast.

Pedraforca

Peaks: Pedraforca Cima Nord (2438m), Pedraforca Pollego Superior (2507m)
Routes: Verdet (uII)
Area: Cadi-Moixero, Catalonia
Symbol of the Catalan people, Pedraforca is a superb mountain, truly distinctive with its twin-pronged summit and notable isolation. Arriving in the Cadi-Moixero national park, deep in the Catalan interior, is a magical experience. The area is beautiful and remarkably peaceful, particularly after a day in Barcelona (after flying in late on Sunday). Our campsite, the Mirador del Pedraforca, paid homage to the peak: a stupendous view towards it from our chalet and the swimming pool (while cooling off in the pool with the kids I realised that its double summit did remind me of something else: Pic du Midi d'Ossau in the central Pyrenees, although I did that in 1993 so memory is fading!). The mountain was, in short, essential - so I left the chalet before dawn next day with a plan to run the classic circuit and get back in time for breakfast and a family tour of the area. Although it took a while to find the right road above Saldes, once I did I made rapid progress up to the Lluis Estephan refuge, then up good but steep paths which wind through the trees and skirt some big limestone walls until the open terrain below the Col de Verdet is reached. The weather was stunning: deep blue cloudless skies and perfect clarity of light. Views over the Cadi range and across to the Serra d'Ensija were fabulous. I overtook a trio of Catalan lads from Tarragona at the start of the scrambling. This is easy (no more than grade II) but very enjoyable, up a slabby and very broad couloir/gully to a steepening with a couple of fixed ropes. This gains a mini col below the north peak. From here, a short descent over the northern slopes of the peak (above Gosol) allows for more excellent scrambling up slabs and short chimneys (II) with good views of the more dramatic rock walls above Saldes. The actual summit (Pollego Superior) is surprisingly large, with spectacular views due to the clarity of light - Montserrat above Barcelona was clearly visible above Gallina Pellada on the horizon. Close at hand, the soft green ranges of the Bergueda contrasted with the towering limestone walls around Pedraforca. I walked along the narrow ridge towards the Caldera for a bit before dropping down easily to L'Enforcadura. This is the enormous deep col between the two peaks, and allows for a great traverse. You really wouldn't want to come up via this scree covered couloir, known as the Tartera del Pedraforca: it's bad enough in descent, with loose scree, arduous going with little grip left on my old trail shoes and numerous slips, cutting my hand in two places. Once the treeline is reached, the going is far easier, with good running contouring the slopes back to the refuge surprisingly quickly. I nibbled a bit of manchego and chorizo for an appropriate breakfast, then scurried back down to the car and main breakfast back at the campsite. Less than 2:30 for the full traverse.

The Druid fell race

Race: Druid fell race (5m/1100ft)
Time/Position: 38.01 (13th from 107)
Regretted my decision to do this almost immediately - even the first small climb from Llanferres was a bit of a nightmare. Despite the slowness of my journey round Wasdale on Saturday, I was still pretty drained after such a long outing, with significant quad damage. The first half of the race to the top of Foel Fenlli was pretty awful, after which I perked up very slightly but still suffered throughout. I recorded by far my worse ever result on this race, which I must have done 7 or 8 times and is usually one of my favourites.

Wasdale Horseshoe

Race: Wasdale Horseshoe fell race (36k/9022ft/AL)
Peaks: Illgill Head (609m), Whin Rigg (635m), Seatallan (692m), Scoat Fell (841m), Pillar (892m), Great Gable (899m), Scafell Pike (978m)
Time/Position: 6.08 (65th from 130)
This is often considered to be the hardest fell race in the UK. Having done most of the other contenders I am inclined to agree, although it is all relative, particularly as I am abjectly unsuited to long fell races and have rarely tried to properly race them: preferring instead to jog round and enjoy them in 'tourist' mode. Today was no exception. I have very little climbing mileage in my legs, and not much distance, so it was something of a relief to get a poor forecast which made it acceptable to go into survival plod mode. Perfect conditions would have been very frustrating! After an evening meal at the Inn, heavy rain during the night continued to hammer our tents through the morning and was obviously set in for the day. In these circumstances, I pack a lot of kit, and I had a fairly heavy sac as the race set off for Illgill Head along the path Vic and I took last year for our long Lingmell Dash warm-up. This is a relatively short climb, although quite steep, and our small team of Buckley Runners stuck together for it: felt like Tattenhall Tough Team for a bit! A nice relaxed run along the ridge, wind not too bad, to Whin Rigg in around 45 minutes. Took the steep descent very easily, and we even had a brief view of Wastwater as we descended to Woodhow at the far end of the lake. Running along the bottom of the valley through woods and fields to Greendale was delightful: it even stopped raining for a bit. Then the great Joss Naylor handed me a drink before the next climb up Greendale Gill. The rain began in earnest again on the steep sides of the gill: the river in semi-spate as we crossed to gain the unpleasant slog up featureless terrain to the top of Seatallan. One of the toughest climbs of the day: wet and cold with the knowledge that the race had hardly even started. From Seatallan, the trickiest navigation of the route starts. Initially a well defined spur leads to the Pots of Ashness. Then we took a contouring line towards Haycock. I kept Nether Beck as a handrail, map and compass out throughout, and we emerged eventually on the main ridge over to Scoat Fell. We were now much higher, and the weather got correspondingly worse. Indeed, the section over Wind Gap to Pillar, exposed (as its name suggests) to the prevailing south-westerlies was probably the worst part of the race weather-wise. I was getting cold, and glad of my cautious tactics: took five minutes at the Pillar summit cairn to put my extra coat and trousers on as the wind howled overhead. Felt much better afterwards, but was now well behind the group I had been running with and on my own for the next section along the ridge to Looking Stead and the Black Sail Pass. Fortunately, I knew the rest of the route slightly (although I always lack the local knowledge I have for North Wales). Below Kirkfell, I took the smaller contouring path above Ennerdale and was joined by several other runners. This was mercifully sheltered out of the wind, but boggy. From the col at Beck Head, a steep climb leads to the top of Great Gable: tough. I fell on the descent, bashing my knee. This was painful and took a while to run off. Ferocious gusts as we got close to Sty Head, then bonking slightly as the intricate and lengthy route to distant Esk Hause took longer than anticipated. I was running out of food, but promised myself a snack to start the final climb up the Pike. Completely alone again for this: wild weather. From the summit of Scafell Pike (only the third time I've ever been up here!) I had some concerns about finding the Lingmell col as the terrain here is very confusing with paths in all directions. I took a direct bearing but ended up following another runner down the main Brown Tongue path. This cuts back towards the Lingmell Col but we went too far north, ending up above Piers Gill. An old wall meant it was easy to work out where we were, but it all meant an extra climb back over the col to pick up the path down to Lingmell nose: I lost 10-20 places and 15-20 minutes as a result of this small error. I knew the final descent from last year's Lingmell Dash British Championship race. It is very steep in places, and things weren't helped by another violent squall which blew in at this point: very windy and wet, but the end at Brackenclose was in sight as we got below the cloud base (200m?) for the first time since Greendale! An embarrassingly slow plod, but it is always satisfying and enjoyable to complete a long race in these conditions (around 40 dropped out or missed the cut-offs). It reminded me of many similar outings in the past: Welsh 1000s and Foel Fras in 2009, OMM in 2008, Mynydd Troed 2012 and many, many more. On balance, it was less extreme than all these: just standard bad summer conditions.

Fairy Freckled Cow trail race

Race: Fairy Freckled Cow, Alwen trail race (North Wales trail running championships 11k)
Time/Position: 42.33 (2nd from 134)
It was a surprise to still be leading this race at the far end of the lake, where the bridge crosses the outflow and the main climb up onto Hiraethog begins. There was a decent-sized field, but compared to my two previous outings on the course a relative lack of runners at the sharper end. This was odd, as it was the first North Wales Trail Running Championships this year. A much younger runner was with me, going ahead occasionally then dropping behind. I thought he might blow up, but on the contrary he was quicker up the hill and I couldn't quite catch him on the undulating return leg. Conditions were pretty good, in contrast to last year's rain and 2014's heat. Sunny intervals, reasonably cool. As we approached the finish at the dam, I conceded defeat. I was just over half a minute behind the winner but well over two minutes ahead of third. The winner didn't qualify for the North Wales Championships so I was fortunate to get the overall win. Great race again, and weirdly similar (in terms of finishing position and general race dynamic) to the Two Lakes half marathon in the same area earlier this summer.

Robbie Webster's Wobbler

Race: Robbie Webster's Wobbler, Frodsham (6m)
Time/Position: 43.53 (10th from 146)
Torrential rain earlier in the day had reduced these usually sandy paths to muddy quagmires in places. I did the race two years ago, and train on these paths quite regularly, but the race route is so complex and twisty that it would be very hard to reproduce! Great fun though - with a start in Frodsham and a finish on top of Beacon Hill. It also takes in the steep Woodhouses Hill and several other smaller climbs around the Helsby/Frodsham hills. In terms of overall feel, it is like a long and hard XC race with some longer fell race style climbs thrown in: an intense session which is hard to pace. My time was well down on two years ago, perhaps because of the mud, or the lower start, or general lack of race fitness. This race feels a bit like a rollercoaster at times, quick descents, sharp turns and short climbs: all rather exciting. Buckley won the team prize, with Jez, Simon E and myself counting.

Moel y Gamelin fell race

Race: Moel y Gamelin (10m+/3000ft/AM)
Time/Position: 1.24.34 (8th from 70)
There was a time when I really enjoyed this course, but in recent years I always seem to struggle to pace it. I must have done it 7 or 8 times, and once ran 1.20. But last year I blew quite badly on the long XC section above Carrog where I used to pick up places. This year, I took it steadily across the ridge over Moel y Faen, Gamelin and Morfydd, and did at least enjoy the long flatter section at the far end. I did pick up a few places but then lost them again for the steep climb back over Gamelin where I really suffered, yet again! Ideal conditions, cool and cloudy.

Carreg Wastad climbing

Crag: Carreg Wastad, Llanberis Pass
Routes: Skylon (HS 4b,4a:led p.2), Crackstone Rib (S 4a:led p.2), Ribstone Crack (VS 4c,4a:sec)
All routes I have done before, but a valuable and enjoyable session none the less. A bit of light drizzle as we sat with a coffee in Nant Peris, but prospects looked quite good as Vic led the first pitch of Skylon. I led this a few years ago, finding it easy. Today, I was initially puzzled by the crux, probably an indication that I haven't done much recently. It goes easily to the small overhang, which I wrongly probed to the right. Going left gives a distinct, but short, crux: much harder than the rest of the route. A few shelves lead to the belay, after which I led the slabby top pitch on sloping holds. It was then time for the classic Crackstone Rib, probably the best Severe in Wales, for the third time (spread over a quarter of a century). Vic led the traverse pitch which leads to the glorious juggy rib, beautifully positioned above the valley. I then led the top pitch, up the chimney to a large flake, then the very brief technical hand traverse - probably the only tricky move on the route - to another flake and the finish. We just had time to nip up the strenuous Ribstone Crack in one giant pitch: another climb I have done before and one that demands a certain amount of technique to climb comfortably. Top of the grade, steep and awkward with two distinct cruxes.

Tattenhall Tough Team race

Race: Tattenhall Tough Team (9m+)
Time/Position: 63.56 (7th from 185 [2nd team from 65: 1st Veteran team])
This event had been chosen as one for Buckley to blitz with as many teams as possible. Our team ('Blue Genes') reprised the line-up of four years ago: me, Jez, Eric. Always a very enjoyable team event, and only the third time I've done it. A full five minutes down on my two previous outings on this race, although the course has changed slightly with a longer run-in back to the social club. We all ran together for the long road section up towards the Peckforton hills, beautiful sunny weather, not too hot. Jez sped off as we reached the off-road section, which is not Eric's favoured terrain. It takes a great route through these hills, weaving round until reaching the infamous railway. I waited for Eric at the top, and he recovered well through the flatter fields which eventually lead back down to the road. We seemed to have a decent gap on the third placed runner from a few other clubs and eventually finished second team overall, and first veteran's team.

Limoges airport-centre runs

Probably more accurate to call these 'jogs' blended with fast walking. Still, three different routes between the city centre of Limoges and the airport in 27 hours must be some kind of record (albeit an utterly pointless one). I remember reading Will Self's Psychogeography account of walking from London to Heathrow and then from JFK to NYC, and thought this would make a provincial French alternative! I landed in the rather less glamorous Limoges airport before 9.30am with a lot of time to kill, so had a relaxing coffee and croissant at the airport, sitting outside, just to acclimatise. No public transport into town, so I planned to get last night's race out of my legs with a specially constructed route taking the country lanes into the city centre. It worked fairly well. I didn't have much baggage, so could move fairly quickly down quiet roads. My route to the centre went on an indirect southerly loop via La Breuil, La Foret and Landouge - where I entered the Limoges suburbs. I arrived in the market near the old Rue de la Boucherie just before midday: perfect timing for a superb lunch of Limousin charcuterie followed by veal breast with a rosemary jus and frites maison. The odd glass of claret too. The next day, I ran back via a different northerly loop along the Rue de St Gence. This was an even more affluent suburban area, so I had to double back to find my favourite kind of local restaurant. Again, I struck gold - this time on the Rue de Bellac. Basse Cote, local goat's cheese, unlimited wine, pain perdu and myriad other culinary delights, before I continued along the even longer northern loop back to the airport to meet Steve and Ceri. A legendary weekend ensued.

The Beast race

Race: Up the Beast fell race (7.5k/2000ft)
Time/Position: 40.47 (6th from 91)
Tonight's outing, although badly timed just before my trip to France, at least kept up my record of running in every one of these races since it was launched: this is the ninth year I think. A route change this year, with a harder finish which doubles back into the highpoint of the woods above Maeshafn. I didn't run very well, but didn't expect to. Probably started a bit too quickly, so was blowing on the Beast itself and never really recovered. The extra hill in the woods finished me off, although it didn't make any difference to the final positions as I couldn't catch Simon E ahead and I just held off those behind. After a shower and meal at home, I drove direct to Leeds-Bradford airport for a few hours sleep in the car before my flight to Limoges.

Sron na Creise scramble

Peaks: Sron na Creise, Stob a' Ghlais Choire (996m)
Area: Black Mount/Glencoe, Scotland
Routes: North Ridge (M/III:sol), North East Ridge (II:sol)
I have driven past Sron na Creise dozens of times and often eyed the obvious north ridge straight up the peak, which is a well-known scramble. The plan was for K to drop me off in Glen Etive, then I would complete this obvious scrambling mini-circuit as quickly as possible, then meet them all in the White Corries ski cafe - from where we would continue our homeward journey. It worked very well as a short and intense outing, with a great deal of rock to enjoy. From Glen Etive, I crossed the river then ran along the fairly gently inclined moor straight towards the ridge that runs down to the left of the obvious stream gully. There was an obvious alternative right of the gully, but the true ridge line left of the gully gets to grips with rock quite quickly and is much steeper. It took around 20 minutes of running to get to the base. The scrambling was excellent: good, clean rock, and a lot of it. An initial section of steep, clean slabs, leads to an easing before a series of shorter walls leads up to a more intimidating tower clearly visible as the steepest section from the valley. The rock runs to superb holds and remains clean and solid throughout. Hugely enjoyable, with good scrambling even as the ridge line begins to fragment higher up: less than an hour from glen to summit. Temperatures were cooler on the summit, with good views across to the Buachaille, and over the Mamores to Ben Nevis. The occasional shaft of sunlight peeking through the high cloud. From the top of Sron na Creise, I ran over to Stob a'Ghlais Choire, then straight down the NE Ridge - with the northern end of the Black Mount beyond. The NE ridge gives an easier and less distinctive route on to the Black Mount than the North, but still gives some scrambling. With no prior knowledge, it is slightly intimidating initially in descent, but a bit of weaving enables the base of the valley (Cam Ghleann) to be gained by a couple of enjoyable rocky gullies. A long run with an unavoidable diversion round the bottom of the side spur of Creag Dhubh eventually gains an indistinct path east to the White Corries, where we continued the journey home with me pouring with sweat. Around 95 minutes for this round.

Beinn na Seilg run and climbing

Peak/Crag: Beinn na Seilg, Ardnamurchan
Routes: Gabbro Slab (D:sol), Faradh Dubh (VD:sol/sh), Identity Crisis (VS 4c:sh), South-West Buttress (M:sol), Trident (VD/HS 4c:sh)
This was the hardest crag of all to find, given the paucity of information I had (just a scrawled note that it lay on the 'western slopes'). As the local Kilchoan crag, however, I was determined to find it and headed out in the late afternoon after sailing back from a lovely day in Tobermory. The weather remained perfect: warm, crystal clear, light easterly winds. I ran up to the Lochan Gleann Locha, as I had done on Tuesday, and scoured the western slopes beyond this. A mistake, as I was later to find out. There are numerous remote crags low down on the hill facing west, but none was correct. After some exhausting running up and down, I decided to go to the summit (which I wanted to do anyway). On emerging at the cairn, I immediately spied the crag, a really impressive 50m sweep of gabbro just below the 'secondary' summit that was obvious from our cottage. First of all, though, I enjoyed the view from the top. Indeed, as the sun began to drop I would honestly rate it perhaps the best I have ever experienced in Scotland (and that is up against some pretty stiff competition!). Directly above the western fringe of Ardnamurchan: wonderful views of the Isles, Mull and Ring Dyke in a beautiful soft light as the sun began to drop over the Atlantic. Memorable. I scampered down to the crag, which currently has no more than 20 routes on it. There is immense scope for development: at least 100 routes seemed possible if the shorter flanks are also developed. The main Hebrides Wall is a lovely sweep of gabbro slabs, at the upper limit of shunting feasibility. Indeed, the rope initially failed to reach the bottom so I soloed up a diff before following the pleasant line of what I took to be Faradh Dubh up the central slab. Identity Crisis was a more obvious harder line, taking a steep crack towards the left of the crag. Some tricky moves initially up a slanting groove, then easier above. All of these were 40m pitches. Trident was slightly longer, if anything. It took the obvious three flake 'trident' in the centre of the crag then stepped right. I think the route then goes even further right, but because of the line of the rope I had to go directly up. This gave two or three hardish moves on unhelpful side pulls: more like VS 4c temporarily. Above, I rejoined the original line. During one of the descents, I nipped up the scramble of the South West Buttress. In glorious sunshine, with the sun dropping over the sea below, not a person, car or house (one, maybe!) visible throughout the entire landscape, this was absolutely glorious. When I'd finished this brief session, I spent a few minutes just enjoying the stunning panorama whilst sitting near the cairn: total peace and solitude. Ran back down to Kilchoan in time to prepare our final evening meal.

Achnaha climbing

Crag: Button Slab (Achnaha)
Routes: Mickey (S:sol), Pash (S 4b:sol), Ludo (VD:sol), Felix (VD:sol)
Crag: Achnaha Buttress
Routes: Soul Searching (VS 4c:sh)
Crag: Black Slab (Achnaha/Sanna)
Routes: Sanna Seaming (HS 4b:sol)
Crag: Graffiti Slab (Achnaha/Sanna)
Routes: Triple Cracks (VD:sol), Mini Dyke (VD:sol)
Without a guidebook or large scale map it was proving difficult to locate these Ardnamurchan crags. Most were a fair walk from the road, all in stunning remote locations on the famous volcanic 'ring dyke' of small peaks that characterises this unique geological landscape. I knew there was an 'Achnaha Buttress' and spied a crag I thought it might be on another pre-breakfast outing. Still cold and blowy, with a little more cloud initially (not much though!). I trekked across a wild landscape, crossing the Allt Sanna river, then over an awkward series of subsidiary gabbro ridges - riddled with smaller crags - until emerging at a larger buttress. This was the place, but first I jogged up to the nearby Button Slab: a delightful slab of rough gabbro with four easy routes. They were all gentle: I started with the line up the middle, which went up the slab to a steepening taken on huge holds. I also did a few lines up two obvious cracks further left on this crag. Shunting on the main crag was tricky, with few belays on top, but I did manage to sample Soul Searching at a mild VS 4c, which goes up a steep flake to a pinnacle before some pleasant wall climbing. On the way back to the car, I stopped off at the immaculate black 'dome' slab that doesn't (apparently) have any routes on it. It must have been climbed, however, as it has three or four very eye-catching lines that looked (from below) like they might go at E1 5a: all on absolutely immaculate rock with superb friction. I did the easier 'seam' to the left at around HS 4b. Finally, I did a few rather contrived and escapable routes on 'graffiti slab', the broken 40ft crag with feint scrawled graffiti nearest the road. Delightful slabby padding in the morning sunshine although, again, people have presumably played on this for years. My first route took the obvious triple crack system, broken by ledges, on the right: I then did the miniature seam, quite delicate, up the darker slab further left. Home for breakfast at 10.15am!

Ardnamurchan Lighthouse climbing

Crag: Ardnamurchan Point (Ardnamurchan)
Routes: The Chimney (VD:sol/sh), Rick Diculous (VD:sol/sh), Eigg Scramble (D:sol), Home for Tea (S:sol/sh)
The wave-cut platform at the base of this crag is the most westerly few feet of land on the mainland of Britain, and is unlikely to have been trodden by many. That doesn't mean very much in these parts, with islands all around, but I have fond memories of Land's End's famous Long Climb in 1995, where you feel like you are climbing from the Atlantic into Britain. Ardnamurchan Point is further west than Land's End, and runs to a small crag that gives some nice gabbro climbs on rough rock almost directly below the famous lighthouse. I set up a shunt for some of the routes, clipping in at times partly because I was just guessing the lines of the routes. The first two were obvious, however. The distinct chimney is fun, as is the route up the arete on sharp holds. Much further right, I enjoyed a wonderful romp up a series of flake cracks on huge positive holds - preceded by a few awkward steps. I took this to be the line of Eigg Scramble, and I took Home for Tea to be the obvious clean open book corner/groove in the middle of the crag: the strongest line here. This was just a short family outing, immediately after lunch of local salmon at the nearby Sonachan hotel.

Beinn Resipol

Peak: Beinn Resipol (845m)
Area: Sunart, Scotland
A distinctive peak which attracts the eye from most directions, Beinn Resipol was an obvious option for an early morning run. Apart from Ben More, it was the only real mountain accessible from Kilchoan - but it was still a 45-50 minute drive down singletrack roads, a good indication of West Ardnamurchan's wonderful isolation. I set off very early as the family slept, as is my usual practice, and was running at 7am. The route goes from the Resipole campsite on the shore of Loch Sunart, through bluebell woods to gain a good track which curves round following the line of the Allt Mhic Chiarain. The track curves round to the east, then peters out into a boggy section before becoming a less distinct path rising towards the main peak. Ahead, to my great surprise, two 'walkers'. Oddly, I didn't seem to be gaining on them, despite my steady uphill jog and striding (again, I was treating the outing as training for the fell running season). It was only when I emerged at the rocky summit that I discovered that they too were runners, clad in Innov8s and carrying light OMM sacs. My mirror image: on family holidays, squeezing a mountain in to a couple of hours before breakfast to keep the rest of the day free (this has been my tactic for seven years!) Beinn Resipol is famed for its view, given its location on the western fringe of the Highlands. The perfect clarity this morning allowed for a full appreciation, although a chilly easterly blew over the summit (it had been completely calm during the ascent). West over Ardnamurchan towards Ben Hiant and the islands initially attracted my attention. Then south over Mull, and inland to the Mamores, Ben Nevis and more distant peaks to the south like Ben More and Cruachan. Sgurr na Ciche on Knoydart was also very obvious, bringing back memories of my chilly 1998 trip. Closer at hand were the superb looking mountains of Ardgour and Moidart, beyond the wild Loch Shiel. After drinking in the view, I pelted down the same way and was back in Kilchoan for breakfast.

Sanna Bay bouldering and climbing

Crag: Sanna Bay
Routes: Yee Haa (V0), Maverick (V0), Goose (V0), Crashed and Burned (V1), Iceman (V1), Ladies Room (V0), Charlie's Crack (VB)
Crag: Sanna West/Marquee Buttress
Routes: Elephant's Head Crack (VD:sol), Portuairk Seam (HVD:sol), Sanna Slab (S 4b:sol), Marquee slabs (M:sol)
One of the most perfect beaches anywhere, we were all eager to get back to Sanna after our first visit on Sunday. This time, we walked in from the car park in Sanna itself (a collection of houses by the sea) through the large dune systems. The day was perfect, again, not a cloud in the sky. And this time I'd packed the rock boots and chalk bag. I knew there was bouldering on the most remote, southerly beach: indeed, I had seen two couples climbing there on Sunday. I don't like bouldering much, but I realised quite quickly that this 'crag' wasn't really bouldering: more like miniature routes. The rock was perfect gabbro, running to superb holds and giving perfect friction. This meant that all the routes (at least the ones I did) felt more like short 5m HVS's than technical boulder problems. The crag is fairly high in places, too, although the perfect sandy landings seem almost too good to be true, as does the general location and ambience on this utterly idyllic beach. M was on photoshoot duty and did a fine job of capturing the essence of the place. I did numerous 'routes' whilst here: hard to remember exactly what, but the juggy flake crack in the centre and the steep wall further right stuck out. Quite a few good natural groove lines too. After lunch and a paddle, I jogged up to the crag I dubbed 'Marquee Buttress' after its elongated tent shape. This might have been Sanna West, which does have a few easy routes on it. If so, I may have done Adder and Subtractor at VD/S. If not (and I had no real way of telling) then I suppose these are very modest new routes. The crag is the tent-shaped slab visible from the beach: a 10 minute walk uphill from the beach. The angle is very gentle, perhaps a little too gentle to be worthwhile, but the rock and general situation is superb. Perfect, clean gabbro. The 'Y' shaped crack (the 'elephant's head' feature) gave a good route with two variation finishes up delicious narrow flake cracks which went up either side of the 'trunk and ears': VD at the most. The thinner seam to its left gave a slightly harder route, again slabby, while the blanker slab to the right gave a more delicate line at around S 4b on small ripples. All routes led to a ledge, above which the obvious finish took a steeper wall up a line of jugs. I then scrambled up the crest of the buttress, no more than Moderate - but 100ft+. Astonishing views over Sanna Bay to Eigg and Rum from this vantage point high on the hillside. Later on, I took a pre-dinner run up to the lakes on Beinn na Seilg and saw a white-tailed eagle at close range (but I settled for some little lines on Stacha Dubh having failed to find the crag that was supposed to be on the 'western slopes'!).

Ben More run

Peaks: A'Chioch (867m), Ben More (966m)
Area: Isle of Mull, Scotland
As we were staying very close to the Kilchoan-Tobermory ferry, a day on Mull seemed inevitable. We went across to the south of the island two years ago, but had never explored by car. The day dawned even clearer, and we enjoyed a memorable crossing of the Sound of Mull looking up at yesterday's peak of Ben Hiant as we sailed. It was then a very pleasant drive along the shores of the Sound to Salen, then crossing the isthmus to Loch na Keal on the western side of Mull. This feels wilder and more remote, although Ben More is obviously a popular objective, as befits its status as the only island Munro outside Skye. It is a very fine peak indeed, although the normal tourist route is a nasty slog from sea level. Instead, I headed up Gleann na Beinne Fada. This was hot but relatively gentle and runnable the whole way to the steepening before the col between Beinn Fhada and my first objective, A'Chioch. Time was very limited (two hours in total for the full traverse), as the family had gone for a drink in Salen and I'd arranged to be collected opposite the obvious island of Eorsa. Superb views inland as I crested the ridge at the col, then opening out to sea as I embarked on the mild scramble leading to the top of A'Chioch. The ridge is quite distinctive and you can get a reasonable amount of rock if you stick to the crest. From A'Chioch, Ben More looks magnificent: a classic pyramidal peak. Just a few fluffy clouds above as I ran down the broad ridge to the next, narrower col. From here, the scrambling continues in the same vein, although it is better and more continuous. Again, I stuck religiously to the crest and enjoyed the final climb immensely. Fabulous views of sea, loch and mountain as I reached the top. The Paps of Jura immediately obvious, bringing fond memories of the race in 2014. Scarba, Iona and (much closer) Ulva were all clearly visible, as was most of the topography of Mull, a wonderfully varied island. No water or food, so I pelted down the tedious tourist route, joining the path along the Abhainn Dhiseig before branching off north over tussocky moorland to meet the family at the appointed place, very hot by now. Quite tiring to fit all this into two hours, but a wonderful and memorable circuit. We took a leisurely route back to Tobermory and the ferry, stopping at various points of interest along the way.

Ben Hiant

Peaks: Ben Hiant (528m)
Area: Ardnamurchan, Western Highlands
Very much the signature peak of Western Ardnamurchan, Ben Hiant may only be a miniature mountain, but it dominates this part of the peninsula and begs to be climbed. It rises straight from the sea and was visible from our bedroom window in Kilchoan: it is also quite a complex little peak, with a distinct summit cone and interesting topography. Our family ascent topped off a memorable 46th birthday for me, particularly as this was the first full day of our Ardnamurchan holiday. In the morning, we visited the lighthouse cafe, then walked from Portuairk to Sanna Bay: some of the finest coastal scenery imaginable in perfect weather, with stunning views to the Small Isles of Rum, Muck and Eigg. The white sands and crystal clear waters of Sanna in the foreground. After lunch of pulled local venison, we drove round to the mountain road for the normal route up Ben Hiant. This gives a delightful walk, ideal for the normally reluctant children. A few steepish rises gives way to a grassy ridge with tremendous views over to Mull, the Small Isles and inland to the east to what looked like a stormy day over the Central Highlands: some tall thunderheads. Here though, all was calm and superbly clear. M and I took the normal traverse path just before the steep final summit cone, while unknown to me K and E took the direct scramble to the top! We reconvened at the summit, for spectacular views over the Inner Hebrides, Mull and our 'home village' of Kilchoan directly below. I had a tiny celebratory dram of Nevis Dew to mark the birthday and we headed down, all running at least part of the way.

Stob Ghabhar run

Peaks: Stob Ghabhar (1090m)
Area: Black Mount, Scotland
The usual snatched run en route to our whit week in the Highlands. After a night near Glasgow and breakfast in Tyndrum, I had a maximum of two hours to get into the mountains while the family had coffee and cakes in Bridge of Orchy. Although the normal route from Forest Lodge takes in the lower companion peak first, I decided to concentrate on the parent mountain of Stob Ghabhar, partly because it is a fine and dominant mountain, partly because I remember being rained off from it in 1993 as we retreated from a week of continual downpours on Skye. Nothing like that today, indeed in our last seven week-long trips to the Highlands we have barely seen any rain. That said, the weather wasn't quite as good as forecast as I ran alongside the Abhainn Shira until following the smaller tributary of the Allt Toaig. I was feeling fresh, the paths and tracks were good, and I made very rapid progress, running all the way to the upper corries before branching off up the steep hillside at Creag an Steallaire towards the upper cwm of Coire na Muic. From here, the onward route becomes less clear so I just ploughed straight up the steep slopes to the north hoping to emerge at the subsidiary top of the Aonach Eagach. This worked, and I emerged on a fine ridge with the mist trying to clear. It never quite managed it, but the weather heightened the atmosphere of a fine ridge. Not in the league of its Glencoe namesake, but it narrows nicely further on and becomes a brief arete before merging into the main summit ridge at a large snow patch, Intermittent views of Black Mount and Rannoch as the mist shifted in and out. Pelted down to Forest Lodge via a slight variation, just over two hours for the outing, and the sun finally came out in the main valley: it didn't go in again for the entire week.

Moelwynion run

Up at 5am after an intermittent night's sleep. A very peaceful night, but cold. My tent door faced the sunrise over the Clwydians, which was a nice backdrop to my morrning cuppa. As I packed up the tent, the Snowdon Horseshoe glowed in the low sunlight, and a few wisps of mist gathered at the base of Dyffryn Mymbyr and over the summit of Tryfan. Beautiful light as I took an extended route back down to the valley, through the woods above Capel Curig with dozens of singing wood warblers. Home before 8am, in Warrington just after 9am!

Siabod run and wild camp

Peaks: Moel Siabod
Area: Moelwynion, Eryri
After my short climbing session, the clouds burnt away leaving a spectacular evening for my overnight camp. The usual wonderful views of the horseshoe from Plas y Brenin, then into the woods for the start of the route up Siabod. I didn't have any firm plans for campsites, beyond a vague intention to camp on the summit. But I know from past experience that my 700g mountain marathon tent is tricky to pitch in the wind, and found a perfect site just off the main path in the area of small bluffs and moraines around the 400m contour. The light wind blew from the north, so I pitched just below the moraine next to a clear stream. Beautiful spot with wonderful views west to the Carneddau, Glyderau and Snowdon - and east over the moors. So sunset and sunrise views seemed likely. After pitching, I had some sandwiches then jogged to the summit. Stunning views, around 7.30pm, as the sun began to drop over the Irish Sea. Beyond the Pass, a golden sea. Views south stretched beyond Cader to Plynlimon, and west to Moel Famau. Perfect clarity. An easy jog down for a fine evening meal of mackerel, chilli and couscous relaxing on top of the bluff gazing towards Tryfan. Cuckoos calling in the woods below - the air quite still so the calls carried upwards. Nearby, skylarks and ravens overhead. Penderyn single malt made a fine nightcap. The sun dropped below Glyder Fach and the temperatures instantly plummeted. By the early hours, it was only just above freezing. Indeed, next morning the condensation on the car window was half-frozen.

Dyffryn Mymbyr climbing

Crag: The Blocks, Dyffryn Mymbyr
Routes: Evan's Corner (VS 4b:sh), Slab and Crack (VD:sol)
Only a very brief climbing session, combined with some bouldering, in a tiny window between my post-work drive to Capel Curig and my evening run/camp on Siabod. Clogwyn Wen wasn't particularly suitable for the shunt, so I trotted over to do Evan's Corner on the Blocks. This is the most obvious line here: a short but steep, and quite sweet, romp up the central corner. Shame it is so short, as it gives strenuous but positive laybacking with some giant jugs at the top. I then did the E1 5b Blockbuster, past the strenuous crux up to the obvious jug, where the route eases, but my shunt jammed so I had to downclimb. Not easy, to say the least! Did some bouldering, then sauntered up the easy Slab and Crack further right. The low cloud was now clearing to a beautiful evening: it cleared completely as I jogged back to the car at Plas y Brenin in preparation for the Siabod run and wild camp.

Ffrith 5k

Race: Ffrith 5k (North Wales Championships)
Time/Position: 17.33 (4th from 93 [1st V45])
Back to the same venue as the border league finale last month, in very similar conditions of heavy showers and a cool coastal breeze. I really did want this race to mark the end of my road running season, which has gone on far longer than usual as I continue to try to take in as many championship races as possible while I remain at the younger end of my 'new' age category! The 5k championships (which I have done three or four times) generally have a fairly small and self-selecting field, which means that you do find yourself a bit exposed in the wind. Eric and I just concentrated on the race, not the clock! I paced it reasonably well, out towards the Nova centre feeling relatively good, made up a few places on this section. Then back into the headwind, fairly light but totally exposed. I was making up ground on the very young lad in front, and did think I might be able to catch him and finish third. It wasn't to be, however, and I settled for 4th place - my highest at this event, although I ran 16.54 in the champs in 2012. Eric and I both won our categories at the prize giving. Currently North Wales V45 champion at 5 mile, half marathon and 5k distances, and Welsh V45 champion at the 10 mile distance. I'd be the first to admit it is largely by default, though, with the better runners currently out of action.

Baslow climbing

Crag: Baslow, Peak District
Routes: Route 0 (D:sol), Route 1 (VD:sol), Stepped Groove (M:sol), Route 2 (D:sol), Route 3 (D:sol), Route 3.5 (VD:sol), Gully Wall (M:sol), Gully Wall Variation (VD:sol), Shallow Rib (VD:sol), Blocked Gully (M:sol), Chipped Slab (VD:sol), Resurgence (5a:sol)
A foggy morning in the Peak, which began to clear as I parked at the Curbar Gap after a night in Darley Dale. It was very early, there was nobody around, and the ambience was delightful as I sauntered down to one of the Peak District's more obscure climbing venues. Cuckoos calling, meadow pipits displaying. I had very little information about Baslow, and no guidebook save for some scrawled notes, but the gully walls (the cleanest and most popular section) were obvious after a short walk above the edge. Like Windgather, you probably wouldn't bother coming here with a partner, but it is an ideal venue for the solo explorer. Short routes on perfect unpolished gritstone, with a lovely open aspect looking out over the patchwork valleys and villages of Calver and Curbar. I enjoyed all the gentle routes on the first slab, picking my way up and down, and particularly enjoyed Chipped Slab on the far right. Gully Wall Variation was steep to start for the grade, and Route 3 was a bit awkward at the top. I finished by taking the two harder routes on the immaculate second slab. Both had low cruxes. Resurrection was by far the hardest: crux felt more like 5c/f6b, although I may have done it wrong. Small pockets and smears to a sharper pocket and better holds. I didn't continue up this one. Resurgence was easier: British 5a/HVS, up small but quite positive pockets to small ledges. I finished a little further left. The sun came out as I jogged back to the car and headed down for a fine bacon sandwich in Calver (all well before 9am!) before driving to Warrington.

Shining Tor fell race

Race: Shining Tor fell race, Goyt Valley (10k/1700ft)
Time/Position: 46.26 (40th from 232)
Looking for a pretext to visit my old friend Jon in the Peak, I settled on this race which coincidentally took in very similar ground to the run Vic and I had enjoyed in truly vile conditions on the 3rd of January. It is a really cracking circuit of Cheshire's highpoint, very runnable throughout, which leaves from the Errwood reservoir far below the ridgeline. Ideal for me, still coming off a long winter season devoted to road running, desperately trying to develop hill fitness before the summer fell races. The fields in these parts are always very impressive and competitive, so I started well back and just enjoyed the event. A road section along the lake side gave way to a narrow track and the start of the long but relatively gentle climb up towards the tops from the far end of the lake. This goes past Erwood Hall, then up zig zags to climb above the Shooter's Clough valley, eventually emerging on the spur which leads to the Cat and Fiddle. From here, the path heads north-west to a steeper (but still eminently runnable) path to the top of Shining Tor. Most of this was familiar ground from our January run, and it was nice to be able to see the distant views north from the subsequent ridge over Cats Tor to Pym's Chair. This gives superb, fast running throughout: much of it on slabs, conditions quite good throughout, cool, cloudy and dry. The final descent down The Street and Jep Clough is steeper, and I held back a bit - losing a few places - until emerging back at Erwood Reservoir and a final fast road section across the dam. Great race, thoroughly enjoyed it. After a quick wash in the lake, I drove to Jon's house in Darley Dale: always a very pleasant drive at dusk.

Windgather climbing

Crag: Windgather, Peak District
Routes: Left Triplet Crack (M:sol), South Buttress Crack (M:sol), Overlapping Wall (S:sol), Face Route 2 (D:sol), Face Route 1 (HVD:sol), Side Face (S:sol), Buttress 2 Gully (M:sol), Rib and Slab (M:sol), Leg Stump (D:sol), The Corner (D:sol), Staircase (M:sol), Heather Buttress (D:sol)
It had rained all day in the Peak, but it was sunny in Chester so I had some optimism it would clear as I drove across to the Shining Tor fell race after work. Sure enough, by Wilmslow the sun had come out so I initiated plan 'A' and stopped for a bit of easy gritstone climbing first. As its name suggests, Windgather dries quickly in the almost constant wind that blows into the face from the hills to the west. Conditions were delightful, and I thoroughly enjoyed soloing up the easy climbs that characterise this crag. I've done most (if not all) of them before, but particularly enjoyed the Face Routes on delightful slabby grit with the sun out, along with Leg Stump and the juggy Corner and Staircase. The pockets were wet after earlier rain but the climbing was all very pleasant. I finished with the isolated Heather Buttress, which gives easy slabby climbing to an intimidating finish up a steep little wall on big holds. I think it is my third time climbing here: famously simple, but a really lovely location with far reaching views over verdant hills and valleys. I could see the route of the fell race to the south, over Shining Tor and Pym's Chair, and that is where I headed after a short bouldering session at the quarry walls (doing most of the traverse and other problems).

Roaches climbing

Crag: Roaches (Upper Tier), Staffordshire
Routes: Central Route (VS 4b:sec), Right Route (VD:led), Technical Slab (HS 4a:sec), The Neb Finish (VS 4b:sec), Black Velvet (HVD 4a:led), The Rib (D:sol), Bachelor's Buttress (VS 4c:sec), Fern Crack (S 4b:led)
A bit of a contrast to our last visit to the area in early January, when the crags were enveloped in a cold mist and it rained throughout our mud-spattered long run along the main ridge line. Instead, this was one of my occasional climbing forays onto grit on one of its finest crags, a venue I've only twice visited in the past. This is a criminal oversight, as even the easiest routes are good, and I definitely prefer these Staffordshire crags to those further north. Still in shakedown mode, and grit always takes some getting used to, so we stuck to simple ground throughout. After days of sunshine, it was cold and cloudy when we reached the Upper Tier, a very chilly northerly blowing straight into the face. This made the delicate, balancey climbing on Central Route a tad harder than it might have been. Steve B led, and I enjoyed the crisp 4b moves on small holds up the slab. I then led Right Route very quickly on Vic's gear, with Ceri belaying. This is an old classic and gives nice juggy climbing up the slabby flake that marks the right end of the slab. Next came the superb combination of Technical Slab, with the Neb Finish. I last did the slab with Tim over a quarter of a century ago, but still remembered it. It gives immaculate but bold climbing, really lovely up to the top constricted groove. A steeper move round this, then a brilliant traverse out right for the Neb Finish. This was momentarily exciting as I followed on a single rope: there's no gear on the traverse but it is easy climbing on large grit pockets and diagonal ledges. Great exposed position. We were flowing now, after a creaky and cold start, and I led the excellent Black Velvet (a companion to the classic Black and Tans which I also did with Tim many moons ago). It is a fine route for the grade: 20 metres of quality climbing. Varied too: starting with an awkward groove (Hollybush crack) which is overcome by moving left steeply on good holds. A mild jamming crack leads to a ledge, then great climbing up the very well protected thin crack leads to the wider (easy) finishing groove in a great position. After a romp up The Rib, and lunch, Steve led Bachelor's Buttress as the sun finally emerged. Temperatures increased dramatically, and the rock shone orange. This is a short but bold route, easy to second. A simple slab leads to delicate moves rightwards and a distinct, reachy crux for a flat hold. All in balance, though, and easier climbing leads diagonally rightwards to the belay. It was sunny and warm now, building to a wonderful May evening, but we were running out of time so I led Fern Crack at the far left end of the crag with Vic belaying. This was very enjoyable, a fun and unusual route at the grade. A very steep start, with little for the feet, much harder than the rest of the climb, gains a big flake then a steep but easy crack up to a remarkable, perfect thread. Above a short wall, the climb eases to a big ledge then traverse left to gain a hidden finishing groove.

Chester half marathon

Race: Chester half marathon
Time/Position: 1.20.35 (45th from 7000 [4th V45])
I was due a bad race, and this was it. Shame it had to happen on a local event, but never mind! I did the old Chester half at least six times in the early 2000s, but have avoided it since it became commercialised. However, I decided I should give the new course and event a chance this year and was (I assumed) well trained for the distance, with the right combination of speed and endurance. It was baffling, therefore, to find the pace unsustainable when trying to get close to my PB of 1.17. No idea what the issue was: too much racing (last Sunday's tough half marathon, for example) or perhaps it was a bad night's sleep, or perhaps the hayfever that I suffer mildly from at this time of year (often notice a dip in form in May). No particularly unusual circumstances though, and it was my 42nd half marathon. Whatever it was, after initially enjoying the route along Bridge Street and the City Centre, I began to struggle a bit. I hooked onto a group at a similar pace, but just after the turn for home at Two Mills, I started to struggle properly. By mile 9 at Saughall I was really blowing and only revived after taking my one emergency gel. I had lost a lot of time and multiple places by now though, and even had to walk for a bit. At least 15 runners went past me on the return leg, and I lost more time on the short hill from the canal to the finish in front of the Town Hall. A nice event, which obviously takes in far more of the city than the old course, although it is three or four times more expensive! You get a sense of occasion, though, with big crowds especially at the finish. Like a mini-London, so met the family and had an ice cream to wind down.