Crag: Llanymynech, Shropshire/Powys
Routes: Bah Bah Black Sheep (f6a+:led), Up the Spout (f6b:sec), Coming of Age (f6a:led), Culture Cryptic (f5b:led), Culture Vulture (f5b:sec)
One of those venues that you drive past hundreds of times without ever investigating further. The new guidebook inspired me to take a closer look, so myself and Steve headed over for a brief reccie session as the typical unreliable August weather continues. I knew the quarried walls were big, but didn't appreciate quite how big - some massive bolted pitches, reminiscent of the huge single pitches in Gorbio or other Provencal venues. We kicked off with the popular 6a+ taking the vague arete on the right-hand side of the excellent and impressive Grid Iron Wall. This was a fine route - one of the best sports routes of its grade locally - interesting throughout, well bolted, with crux moves over the obvious small overhang at half height. Good rests in places, and rarely overtly strenuous. The final moves took a short wall on small holds. I found the route quite straitforward, and did it quickly and cleanly onsight. The f6b to its left is similar, although I did not take on the continuation on the upper wall. Further right, I led the left-hand 6a up a much scrappier and more broken area of rock. Another very long route, at least 30m from the bottom, only just possible on the stretch of the rope. It was slightly loose in places, but very reasonable technically, just one awkward mantel at half height. Much further left, we walked along the path (crossing into Wales) for two routes on the Cult Wall. This is much shorter, so we did the two longest and cleanest-looking routes on the right: both were worthwhile. Cryptic had one crux move over an overlap which was much harder than the rest of the route, but both were on dark and relatively solid limestone. An early finish gave us time for the Collie run up Moel Famau later.
Friday, August 25, 2017
Saturday, August 19, 2017
Trevor climbing
Crag: Trevor Rocks, Eglwyseg
Routes: Dai Laughing (f5a:led), The Valleys Initiative (f5b:led)
Rain was already sweeping in from the Berwyns as we arrived at the crag, walking in to the routes more in hope than expectation. By the time we arrived, the rock was sodden, as were we, so we gave up and went for a run along the escarpment to Twilight Tower Buttress, with a continuous band of showers coming in from the west. The path down to OD is very feint here, much more so than the other limestone valleys - Pinfold and the like. At the bottom. we ran down OD then along the road back to the car. Another heavy shower as we tried again to climb, before a short clearance eventually allowed us to do a couple of routes. Sadly, both were awful: soapy rock, sloping holds, rusty lower offs. Even by the standards of Trevor, this section of cliff is uninspiring. More rain came as a relief and we scampered back to the car glad to have an excuse to finish before midday.
Routes: Dai Laughing (f5a:led), The Valleys Initiative (f5b:led)
Rain was already sweeping in from the Berwyns as we arrived at the crag, walking in to the routes more in hope than expectation. By the time we arrived, the rock was sodden, as were we, so we gave up and went for a run along the escarpment to Twilight Tower Buttress, with a continuous band of showers coming in from the west. The path down to OD is very feint here, much more so than the other limestone valleys - Pinfold and the like. At the bottom. we ran down OD then along the road back to the car. Another heavy shower as we tried again to climb, before a short clearance eventually allowed us to do a couple of routes. Sadly, both were awful: soapy rock, sloping holds, rusty lower offs. Even by the standards of Trevor, this section of cliff is uninspiring. More rain came as a relief and we scampered back to the car glad to have an excuse to finish before midday.
Thursday, August 17, 2017
Dyffryn Mymbyr climbing
Crag: Clogwyn Wen/Clogwyn Du (Dyffryn Mymbyr)
Routes: Direct Route (HS 4b:sec), Anos (HVS 5a:sec), Proten (HVS 5a:sec), Zigzag (VD:led), Joycean (VS 4b:sec), High Cross (E2 5b:sec), Pock Wall (S:led), Sheep's Pen Buttress (VS 4c:sec)
One of those occasions when detailed local knowledge comes into its own. It had poured down in the night, as this unstable August continues. It was obvious that the Pass crags were wet as we drove up, and it seemed likely the showers would continue. As a result, we ditched our Cromlech plans and I suggested the southern side of the Glyderau might make a good alternative, as a kind of miniature rain shadow area. This worked a treat and, although Clogwyn Wen is short, it is a fine crag of excellent clean granite: the routes are, almost without exception, good and varied. Vic kicked off with the obvious central line, Direct Route, in glorious sunshine with the rock almost completely dry. This route goes up a gently curving groove to a tricky move up steep rock to gain good holds and an easy finishing chimney. We then took the opportunity to bomb up the two fine HVS's to the right with rope above. Anos heads up to an upside down flake and massive undercut hold. A powerful layback using satisfyingly huge flake holds goes up to a ledge and thread. Proten, further right, was wet higher up but also good: heading up to a strange detached flake with small but positive holds. I then led Zigzag, an easy route up granite steps traversing diagonally left over the face. At the junction with Anos/Direct Route, I reversed back to a belay and Vic led through up the undistinguished Joycean at mild VS. The best route here is the hardest, High Cross, again done with rope above. A superb and varied pitch, it goes up an awkward groove to a very hard move with little for the feet. This gains a rest in Direct Route, before a pulsating hand traverse below the roof. Good holds and tiny ledges for the feet, which can be found if you look hard enough. At the far end of the traverse, a semi-rest, before long reaches for good side pulls and mini jugs up the steep finishing wall. Light showers passed from time to time, but our choice was thoroughly vindicated: the Pass and Snowdon stayed clagged in and wet for the entire day. After a heavier shower, we moved round to Clogwyn Du (where I have climbed before). I did Pock Wall in drizzle: reminiscent of the Moelwyns with its pocketed and slabby rock, but very short. Vic then led Sheep's Pen Buttress, a good varied pitch with a steep finish, as the rain started in earnest. Our luck then ran out and we got an absolute drenching as we ran back to the car.
Routes: Direct Route (HS 4b:sec), Anos (HVS 5a:sec), Proten (HVS 5a:sec), Zigzag (VD:led), Joycean (VS 4b:sec), High Cross (E2 5b:sec), Pock Wall (S:led), Sheep's Pen Buttress (VS 4c:sec)
One of those occasions when detailed local knowledge comes into its own. It had poured down in the night, as this unstable August continues. It was obvious that the Pass crags were wet as we drove up, and it seemed likely the showers would continue. As a result, we ditched our Cromlech plans and I suggested the southern side of the Glyderau might make a good alternative, as a kind of miniature rain shadow area. This worked a treat and, although Clogwyn Wen is short, it is a fine crag of excellent clean granite: the routes are, almost without exception, good and varied. Vic kicked off with the obvious central line, Direct Route, in glorious sunshine with the rock almost completely dry. This route goes up a gently curving groove to a tricky move up steep rock to gain good holds and an easy finishing chimney. We then took the opportunity to bomb up the two fine HVS's to the right with rope above. Anos heads up to an upside down flake and massive undercut hold. A powerful layback using satisfyingly huge flake holds goes up to a ledge and thread. Proten, further right, was wet higher up but also good: heading up to a strange detached flake with small but positive holds. I then led Zigzag, an easy route up granite steps traversing diagonally left over the face. At the junction with Anos/Direct Route, I reversed back to a belay and Vic led through up the undistinguished Joycean at mild VS. The best route here is the hardest, High Cross, again done with rope above. A superb and varied pitch, it goes up an awkward groove to a very hard move with little for the feet. This gains a rest in Direct Route, before a pulsating hand traverse below the roof. Good holds and tiny ledges for the feet, which can be found if you look hard enough. At the far end of the traverse, a semi-rest, before long reaches for good side pulls and mini jugs up the steep finishing wall. Light showers passed from time to time, but our choice was thoroughly vindicated: the Pass and Snowdon stayed clagged in and wet for the entire day. After a heavier shower, we moved round to Clogwyn Du (where I have climbed before). I did Pock Wall in drizzle: reminiscent of the Moelwyns with its pocketed and slabby rock, but very short. Vic then led Sheep's Pen Buttress, a good varied pitch with a steep finish, as the rain started in earnest. Our luck then ran out and we got an absolute drenching as we ran back to the car.
Wednesday, August 16, 2017
Capenhurst 5k
Race: Capenhurst 5k
Time/Position: 17.07 (22nd from 300 [1st V45])
It is possible that my clueless training for yesterday's 1500m has had some other benefits. I don't really know what I'm doing when it comes to middle distance training, and was slightly disappointed by my time last night as a partial result. But, to my surprise, I felt good this evening and recorded my fastest 5k time for a few years on this well-known, prestigious course. I last did it in 2010 when I just dipped under 17 minutes, but I've done lots of races round these lanes and know them very well indeed. It was a bit windy tonight, especially on the tough section out towards Two Mills, but I felt surprisingly good and began to push the pace after 3k and work up the field a bit. Tight in the V45 category, but I managed to finish in first place, again to my surprise: only 13 seconds down on my PB.
Time/Position: 17.07 (22nd from 300 [1st V45])
It is possible that my clueless training for yesterday's 1500m has had some other benefits. I don't really know what I'm doing when it comes to middle distance training, and was slightly disappointed by my time last night as a partial result. But, to my surprise, I felt good this evening and recorded my fastest 5k time for a few years on this well-known, prestigious course. I last did it in 2010 when I just dipped under 17 minutes, but I've done lots of races round these lanes and know them very well indeed. It was a bit windy tonight, especially on the tough section out towards Two Mills, but I felt surprisingly good and began to push the pace after 3k and work up the field a bit. Tight in the V45 category, but I managed to finish in first place, again to my surprise: only 13 seconds down on my PB.
Tuesday, August 15, 2017
Trafford AC Grand Prix 1500m
Race: Longford Park 1500m
Time/Position: 4.41 (7th from 12, Heat 4)
The toughest distance of all, but also the shortest race I have ever done. It has taken me 500 races and 20 years of running, although we did a timed mile at Deeside earlier this summer which put the idea in my head. It wasn't my first time at the Trafford Grand Prix: four years ago, I did the 3000m on the same track at the same excellent summer meet. They are very interesting experiences, superbly slick and professional, an entirely different aspect of running (I can guarantee no other competitors were still recovering from the Maesgwm Muddle fell race). Proper middle distance running must be the hardest discipline of all with its combination of speed and endurance. This sluggish performance was no such thing, but I wanted to at least record a geriatric time before I switch to ultras next year. After watching the elite, I was placed in heat 4 and got a bit boxed in over the first two laps: I couldn't get the inside lane and was put off my stride on three occasions in the middle of a very tight group (all heats are selected by predicted time). Margins are, of course, tiny in these races and that was enough to miss my sub 4.40 target time (however, I was only 1 second slower than the time I had predicted, at 4.41.32, so not too disastrous). Most of the competitors are very young but, at 47, I was still not quite the oldest runner.
Time/Position: 4.41 (7th from 12, Heat 4)
The toughest distance of all, but also the shortest race I have ever done. It has taken me 500 races and 20 years of running, although we did a timed mile at Deeside earlier this summer which put the idea in my head. It wasn't my first time at the Trafford Grand Prix: four years ago, I did the 3000m on the same track at the same excellent summer meet. They are very interesting experiences, superbly slick and professional, an entirely different aspect of running (I can guarantee no other competitors were still recovering from the Maesgwm Muddle fell race). Proper middle distance running must be the hardest discipline of all with its combination of speed and endurance. This sluggish performance was no such thing, but I wanted to at least record a geriatric time before I switch to ultras next year. After watching the elite, I was placed in heat 4 and got a bit boxed in over the first two laps: I couldn't get the inside lane and was put off my stride on three occasions in the middle of a very tight group (all heats are selected by predicted time). Margins are, of course, tiny in these races and that was enough to miss my sub 4.40 target time (however, I was only 1 second slower than the time I had predicted, at 4.41.32, so not too disastrous). Most of the competitors are very young but, at 47, I was still not quite the oldest runner.
Saturday, August 12, 2017
Maesgwm Muddle
Race: Maesgwm Muddle fell race (16.3k/1300m)
Time/Position: 1.51.48 (63rd from 180)
A British Championship race again, as it was the last time I did it in 2014. I found it a tad contrived then, with some arbitrary punishment in the form of illogical descents and long extensions to the natural 'reverse' horseshoe of the Moel Eilio race route. This time, I enjoyed it more, but as I was over four minutes slower that is perhaps not surprising! After fast running along the tracks to Hebron, the climb up Moel Cynhorion is a brute, but you can at least get your head down and plod up. A very steep descent (the Pedol Peris final descent) then more or less reverses the climb right back to the base of the valley, which is a tad demoralising. Thick mist and rain for the main ridge crossing, just a few metres of visibility. I have reasonable knowledge of the ridge but still had to get the map and compass out once on the descent from Moel Eilio as I couldn't remember whether the route followed the fenceline or the track. As always, it is remarkable how thick mist swallows up a big field, even a British championship field - in general, the conditions probably slowed times a bit but I've also been feeling sluggish for weeks so the time was no surprise. A long run in over the obscure spur of Cefn Du, way out to the north, then a lovely descent to Llanberis - echoing the final section of the Snowdonia marathon - as the weather finally began to clear. The final climb back to the finishing point just feels sadistic!
Time/Position: 1.51.48 (63rd from 180)
A British Championship race again, as it was the last time I did it in 2014. I found it a tad contrived then, with some arbitrary punishment in the form of illogical descents and long extensions to the natural 'reverse' horseshoe of the Moel Eilio race route. This time, I enjoyed it more, but as I was over four minutes slower that is perhaps not surprising! After fast running along the tracks to Hebron, the climb up Moel Cynhorion is a brute, but you can at least get your head down and plod up. A very steep descent (the Pedol Peris final descent) then more or less reverses the climb right back to the base of the valley, which is a tad demoralising. Thick mist and rain for the main ridge crossing, just a few metres of visibility. I have reasonable knowledge of the ridge but still had to get the map and compass out once on the descent from Moel Eilio as I couldn't remember whether the route followed the fenceline or the track. As always, it is remarkable how thick mist swallows up a big field, even a British championship field - in general, the conditions probably slowed times a bit but I've also been feeling sluggish for weeks so the time was no surprise. A long run in over the obscure spur of Cefn Du, way out to the north, then a lovely descent to Llanberis - echoing the final section of the Snowdonia marathon - as the weather finally began to clear. The final climb back to the finishing point just feels sadistic!
Wednesday, August 09, 2017
Independence Quarry climbing
Crag: Independence Quarry, Eglwyseg
Routes: Umpalumpa Groove (f5:led), Augustus Gloop (f6a+:led), Oh Calcutta (f6a:led), Independence Day (f6b+:sec), High Stepper (f6a+:led), Technocrat (f6a:led)
From below, this crag looks so broken and unappealing that even I had never bothered to visit before. However, the routes are much better than they look and this was a surprisingly worthwhile little session. The vegetated groove on the right wing is the easiest and probably worst route here, but it did provide a warm up and is an obvious line with a tricky finish up a steep crack. The crag is much better in the 6's, so I went for the hanging black groove to the right, which has a high first bolt and tough move over the horrible band of shale which splits all the routes. Above this, good technical climbing leads to a hard but satisfying final move up the steep wall on small holds. Further right is a steep slab of black limestone, and I led the route on the left, which also has a high first bolt and one initially puzzling move at half height. I took this on the right initially, which is very hard, and eventually unlocked it on the left, which is consistent with the grade. The 6b+ to the right gives some fine technical climbing and interesting sequences. The left-wing of the quarry looks more broken and vegetated from a distance but is again better than it looks. High Stepper is good at 6a+: an easier but interesting lower wall gives clean and enjoyable climbing to a ledge, after which the route builds to a hard and technical climax. I moved left over the steep arete, which seemed slightly off route, but a chap below reckoned that was the correct line.
Routes: Umpalumpa Groove (f5:led), Augustus Gloop (f6a+:led), Oh Calcutta (f6a:led), Independence Day (f6b+:sec), High Stepper (f6a+:led), Technocrat (f6a:led)
From below, this crag looks so broken and unappealing that even I had never bothered to visit before. However, the routes are much better than they look and this was a surprisingly worthwhile little session. The vegetated groove on the right wing is the easiest and probably worst route here, but it did provide a warm up and is an obvious line with a tricky finish up a steep crack. The crag is much better in the 6's, so I went for the hanging black groove to the right, which has a high first bolt and tough move over the horrible band of shale which splits all the routes. Above this, good technical climbing leads to a hard but satisfying final move up the steep wall on small holds. Further right is a steep slab of black limestone, and I led the route on the left, which also has a high first bolt and one initially puzzling move at half height. I took this on the right initially, which is very hard, and eventually unlocked it on the left, which is consistent with the grade. The 6b+ to the right gives some fine technical climbing and interesting sequences. The left-wing of the quarry looks more broken and vegetated from a distance but is again better than it looks. High Stepper is good at 6a+: an easier but interesting lower wall gives clean and enjoyable climbing to a ledge, after which the route builds to a hard and technical climax. I moved left over the steep arete, which seemed slightly off route, but a chap below reckoned that was the correct line.
Saturday, August 05, 2017
Lanhydrock Parkrun
'Race': Lanhydrock Parkrun, Cornwall (5k)
Time/Position: 19.19 (1st from 286)
Supposedly the toughest Parkrun in the country, although I didn't know that before the start. It just knocks our local Wepre run into second place, with 5ft more climbing! I chose it only because of its perfect location, just off the A30 and ideally timed at one hour in to our journey home. The setting is very nice, in the grounds of Lanhydrock house, a major National Trust venue outside Bodmin. From the start, a very fast plunge down tarmac paths leads to an equally rapid fell race-style descent through woods, which all means the first half is covered unusually quickly. I worked my way up the field during the only flat section, along a pretty riverbank, before the race rears up dramatically for the last mile. A long and steep climb, gaining 270ft and reminiscent of a mild fell race came next, although it also took in a wet field with uncomfortably long grass. I thought that a young lad was in front of me, so was rather surprised to finish in first place in the 'timed run'.
Time/Position: 19.19 (1st from 286)
Supposedly the toughest Parkrun in the country, although I didn't know that before the start. It just knocks our local Wepre run into second place, with 5ft more climbing! I chose it only because of its perfect location, just off the A30 and ideally timed at one hour in to our journey home. The setting is very nice, in the grounds of Lanhydrock house, a major National Trust venue outside Bodmin. From the start, a very fast plunge down tarmac paths leads to an equally rapid fell race-style descent through woods, which all means the first half is covered unusually quickly. I worked my way up the field during the only flat section, along a pretty riverbank, before the race rears up dramatically for the last mile. A long and steep climb, gaining 270ft and reminiscent of a mild fell race came next, although it also took in a wet field with uncomfortably long grass. I thought that a young lad was in front of me, so was rather surprised to finish in first place in the 'timed run'.
Friday, August 04, 2017
St Ives bouldering round-up
Three quite well known bouldering areas dot the headlands around St Ives, and it was easy to reach them on several occasions during our week in Towednack, usually during short breaks to restore circulation when bodyboarding with the family at Porthmeor. With no mat and no spotter, I concentrated on the most obvious and visible lines from St Ives, all simple - more like short VS climbs, not really boulder problems. These included Double Overhang and longer lines at Carrick Du (Man's Head), the nice arete routes on the obvious Camel's Head (Summit Boulders above Clodgy Point), and Exposure Slab (and other routes) on the orange rocks below the Coastguard station on the Island. All of these lines, although short, were visible from various parts of the town. This morning, I left at 6am for a run over the top of Trevalgan hill to the coast path and then along to the main (best quality) sea-level section of Clodgy Point as the sun began to light the rocks: a stunning morning of perfect clarity. Sadly, the lower part of the Great Wall and other sections were wet, but I did a lot of the easier routes on the Undercut Wall, excellent rock and enjoyable climbing. I also did lines on the Star Boulder and Great Wall upper tier.
Monday, July 31, 2017
Rosemergy climbing
Crag: Rosemergy Towers, Penwith, Cornwall
Routes: Flash Back (S 4a:sh), Sam's Greasy Thumbprint (S 4a:sh), Go Shorty Variant (HVS:sh)
Hardly the best venue on the North Cornwall coast, but my solo options with the shunt were rather limited. I climbed at neighbouring Bosigran in the mid 90s, it is undoubtedly one of the finest crags in the UK: Rosemergy is emphatically not! But it did at least provide a sample of Cornish granite and ambience on this early morning trip: nobody around, the sun just rising to light the gorse as I jogged along the coast path. The main, slightly broken, slab is obvious and I found a large flake above it quite easily, abbing down to a comfortable base: a friendly venue, although the swell remained quite heavy below. I didn't know where the routes went, but chose the two obvious lines up the main slab, which was clean and obviously fairly well travelled: excellent rock throughout, both routes following blocky rock interspersed with a couple of delicate moves up to a positive flake crack and scrappy, vegetated finish. The steep and blank face to the right turned out to be Get Shorty at E2 5c. I did the first few moves on a loose shunt, up to the break, fingery and technical. But I had to avoid the final steep wall due to the pendulum, so traversed left into the obvious wet flake crack. Back in time for breakfast and a superb day of boarding in perfect conditions at Porthmeor.
Routes: Flash Back (S 4a:sh), Sam's Greasy Thumbprint (S 4a:sh), Go Shorty Variant (HVS:sh)
Hardly the best venue on the North Cornwall coast, but my solo options with the shunt were rather limited. I climbed at neighbouring Bosigran in the mid 90s, it is undoubtedly one of the finest crags in the UK: Rosemergy is emphatically not! But it did at least provide a sample of Cornish granite and ambience on this early morning trip: nobody around, the sun just rising to light the gorse as I jogged along the coast path. The main, slightly broken, slab is obvious and I found a large flake above it quite easily, abbing down to a comfortable base: a friendly venue, although the swell remained quite heavy below. I didn't know where the routes went, but chose the two obvious lines up the main slab, which was clean and obviously fairly well travelled: excellent rock throughout, both routes following blocky rock interspersed with a couple of delicate moves up to a positive flake crack and scrappy, vegetated finish. The steep and blank face to the right turned out to be Get Shorty at E2 5c. I did the first few moves on a loose shunt, up to the break, fingery and technical. But I had to avoid the final steep wall due to the pendulum, so traversed left into the obvious wet flake crack. Back in time for breakfast and a superb day of boarding in perfect conditions at Porthmeor.
Saturday, July 29, 2017
Plym Valley parkrun
'Race': Plym Valley Parkrun, Devon (5k)
Time/Position: 18.39 (4th from 242 [1st Vet])
A quick speed session before leaving Saltash for our cottage in West Penwith. I am still fairly new to Parkruns, but this was a nice course through Plymbridge Woods in the countryside just to the north of Plymouth. It rained throughout, and was already wet underfoot, so I was glad of my fell shoes for the muddy fields that make up the first section of the run. A loop round these fields led to a nice flat towpath along a canal before a steep off-road climb. After this, a long and gradual tarmac descent before a second lap round the muddy fields, where I gained some places to finish 4th. Slow time, but it didn't feel too bad given the nature of the terrain and the muddy conditions.
Time/Position: 18.39 (4th from 242 [1st Vet])
A quick speed session before leaving Saltash for our cottage in West Penwith. I am still fairly new to Parkruns, but this was a nice course through Plymbridge Woods in the countryside just to the north of Plymouth. It rained throughout, and was already wet underfoot, so I was glad of my fell shoes for the muddy fields that make up the first section of the run. A loop round these fields led to a nice flat towpath along a canal before a steep off-road climb. After this, a long and gradual tarmac descent before a second lap round the muddy fields, where I gained some places to finish 4th. Slow time, but it didn't feel too bad given the nature of the terrain and the muddy conditions.
Friday, July 28, 2017
Sheeps Tor climbing
Crag: Sheeps Tor, Dartmoor, Devon
Routes: Play Crack (D:sol), Slanting Crack (VD:sh), Mushroom Wall (VS 4c+:sh), Burdock (HS 4b:sh), Overhang Crack (HS 4b:sh), Barking Crack (VD:sol/sh), Sheltered Crack (VD:sol/sh), Flake Arete (D:des), Flake Wall (VD:sh), Shallow Corner (VD:sol)
A few days in Devon at the start of our summer holidays, with rather unstable weather throughout. We had visited Saunton Sands and Wembury for bodyboarding, and I'd done a cross-border run across the Tamar Bridge to Plymouth from outside Saltash yesterday. Opportunities to sample a bit more Dartmoor climbing were limited, so I left the motel at 6am and arrived at Sheepstor in classic Dartmoor conditions of dank drizzle and mist half an hour later. Wonderfully atmospheric, and very nice to be back after enjoying the area two years ago. Sheeps Tor is an obvious crag which gives its name to the tiny, tranquil village that nestles below it. It is made up of characteristic Dartmoor granite, rough and steep throughout. Conditions were hardly ideal, with mist swirling over the moorland and intermittent drizzle, but the climbs are straightforward, short and enjoyable. After nipping up Play Crack, I set up a loose shunt, finding the steep and sustained Slanting Crack rather undergraded: a tricky jamming crack, unless I missed something. An eliminate up Mushroom Wall for training purposes was steep and sustained up small positive holds. On the face further right, the two cracklines of Burdock and Overhang Crack are probably the best routes here: both building to difficult crux moves over a final overlap. All the climbs were enjoyable, though, and the rock was so rough that the drizzle didn't affect things too badly. Back to Saltash in time for breakfast.
Routes: Play Crack (D:sol), Slanting Crack (VD:sh), Mushroom Wall (VS 4c+:sh), Burdock (HS 4b:sh), Overhang Crack (HS 4b:sh), Barking Crack (VD:sol/sh), Sheltered Crack (VD:sol/sh), Flake Arete (D:des), Flake Wall (VD:sh), Shallow Corner (VD:sol)
A few days in Devon at the start of our summer holidays, with rather unstable weather throughout. We had visited Saunton Sands and Wembury for bodyboarding, and I'd done a cross-border run across the Tamar Bridge to Plymouth from outside Saltash yesterday. Opportunities to sample a bit more Dartmoor climbing were limited, so I left the motel at 6am and arrived at Sheepstor in classic Dartmoor conditions of dank drizzle and mist half an hour later. Wonderfully atmospheric, and very nice to be back after enjoying the area two years ago. Sheeps Tor is an obvious crag which gives its name to the tiny, tranquil village that nestles below it. It is made up of characteristic Dartmoor granite, rough and steep throughout. Conditions were hardly ideal, with mist swirling over the moorland and intermittent drizzle, but the climbs are straightforward, short and enjoyable. After nipping up Play Crack, I set up a loose shunt, finding the steep and sustained Slanting Crack rather undergraded: a tricky jamming crack, unless I missed something. An eliminate up Mushroom Wall for training purposes was steep and sustained up small positive holds. On the face further right, the two cracklines of Burdock and Overhang Crack are probably the best routes here: both building to difficult crux moves over a final overlap. All the climbs were enjoyable, though, and the rock was so rough that the drizzle didn't affect things too badly. Back to Saltash in time for breakfast.
Saturday, July 22, 2017
Gyrn Gallop
Race: Gyrn Gallop fell race (11k/1100ft)
Time/Position: 46.52 (6th from 48)
It was rather nice to be able to see the entire race route from the field in the tiny hamlet in Rhiwlas where we parked. Gyrn is a long summit, quite high for this delightful area of hidden valleys and twisting lanes along the Wales-England border: the Oswestry hinterland. The race should have suited me, but I had a bit of a stinker. Three minutes ahead of the runner behind me, only a minute or so separating second place from me in sixth, with Jez well out in front. A very fast descent down a lane leads to the start of the runnable and fairly gentle bridleway which climbs to the top of Gyrn, with me in second place initially. Although gentle, this kind of climb is always deceptive and the fatigue began to build as I neared the top. The tight group of Oswestry runners all went past me, and although I narrowed the gap on the descent, I then blew completely on the climb back up the steep lane to the village and staggered home at the back of the group.
Time/Position: 46.52 (6th from 48)
It was rather nice to be able to see the entire race route from the field in the tiny hamlet in Rhiwlas where we parked. Gyrn is a long summit, quite high for this delightful area of hidden valleys and twisting lanes along the Wales-England border: the Oswestry hinterland. The race should have suited me, but I had a bit of a stinker. Three minutes ahead of the runner behind me, only a minute or so separating second place from me in sixth, with Jez well out in front. A very fast descent down a lane leads to the start of the runnable and fairly gentle bridleway which climbs to the top of Gyrn, with me in second place initially. Although gentle, this kind of climb is always deceptive and the fatigue began to build as I neared the top. The tight group of Oswestry runners all went past me, and although I narrowed the gap on the descent, I then blew completely on the climb back up the steep lane to the village and staggered home at the back of the group.
Thursday, July 20, 2017
Dinbren climbing
Crag: Dinbren, Eglwyseg
Routes: Trailer Trash (f6b:led), Laughing Gnome (VS 4b:sec), Goblin Girls (HVS 5a:sec), Ash Crack (HS 4a:led)
Not the most successful climbing trip of the year. Time was very limited, so I immediately got to work on Trailer Trash, a 6b, in cold and windy weather, wearing a coat - not ideal for a route at my current technical limit. It is steep to start, but a line of holds moves left to the second bolt before some easier climbing gains a good foothold and rest. Above, the footholds remain good and allow for a few rests, while the handholds are small but generally positive. The cold wind made life difficult, however, and although I did the route entirely clean and on-sight I fear I moved too far left for the very last move. After this, we moved to the left-hand wall as the sun finally came out. Vic backed off the undergraded Yale, and we also found Goblin Girls moderately stiff for the grade, although it has a fine steep finish on huge holds. This section of crag, on the lower tier at the left-hand end of the crag, is short and undistinguished, and remained very windy this afternoon. A couple more scrappy routes, rather painfully shabby after our Austrian exploits, little wonder that we hadn't been to this section of the crag before, and it was time to go.
Routes: Trailer Trash (f6b:led), Laughing Gnome (VS 4b:sec), Goblin Girls (HVS 5a:sec), Ash Crack (HS 4a:led)
Not the most successful climbing trip of the year. Time was very limited, so I immediately got to work on Trailer Trash, a 6b, in cold and windy weather, wearing a coat - not ideal for a route at my current technical limit. It is steep to start, but a line of holds moves left to the second bolt before some easier climbing gains a good foothold and rest. Above, the footholds remain good and allow for a few rests, while the handholds are small but generally positive. The cold wind made life difficult, however, and although I did the route entirely clean and on-sight I fear I moved too far left for the very last move. After this, we moved to the left-hand wall as the sun finally came out. Vic backed off the undergraded Yale, and we also found Goblin Girls moderately stiff for the grade, although it has a fine steep finish on huge holds. This section of crag, on the lower tier at the left-hand end of the crag, is short and undistinguished, and remained very windy this afternoon. A couple more scrappy routes, rather painfully shabby after our Austrian exploits, little wonder that we hadn't been to this section of the crag before, and it was time to go.
Tuesday, July 18, 2017
Trevor climbing
Crag: Trevor Rocks, Eglwyseg
Routes: The Welsh Wizard (f4c:led), Free Wales (f4a:led), Over Yr on my Heddlu (f5b:led), Christmas Gone Crackers (f6a:sec), Slow, Araf, Slow (f6a:led), Dim Parcio (f4a:sec), Welsh Fargo (f5a:sec)
In instructor mode with Steve, although he got into the swing of things quickly and we soon moved up the grades. I haven't been back to this rather scrappy area since doing most of the routes when they were first developed around a decade ago. It isn't great climbing, but has the usual nice views over Dinas Bran and was particularly pleasant in glorious sunshine on this brief late afternoon visit. Two quite pleasant easy routes started us off, both on reasonably sold rock by the sorry standards of this crag, and taking reasonable lines up slabby ribs. Further right, a better area of rock and two longish routes: not far off 20m. The 5b had an awkward move into a groove with a borehole before pleasant climbing up an easy wall. The supposed 6a was overgraded: I kept religiously to the bolt line, and there were a few vaguely technical moves, but the route is 5+ at most. Similarly, much further left, Slow, Araf, Slow is never f6a. Some sloping holds lead up a slab to a slanting crack, then a steep but juggy finish up the wall above. Not bad, but overgraded. I think I have done the two easy slabby routes to the left before, both longish, and both finishing up a horrible band of shale.
Routes: The Welsh Wizard (f4c:led), Free Wales (f4a:led), Over Yr on my Heddlu (f5b:led), Christmas Gone Crackers (f6a:sec), Slow, Araf, Slow (f6a:led), Dim Parcio (f4a:sec), Welsh Fargo (f5a:sec)
In instructor mode with Steve, although he got into the swing of things quickly and we soon moved up the grades. I haven't been back to this rather scrappy area since doing most of the routes when they were first developed around a decade ago. It isn't great climbing, but has the usual nice views over Dinas Bran and was particularly pleasant in glorious sunshine on this brief late afternoon visit. Two quite pleasant easy routes started us off, both on reasonably sold rock by the sorry standards of this crag, and taking reasonable lines up slabby ribs. Further right, a better area of rock and two longish routes: not far off 20m. The 5b had an awkward move into a groove with a borehole before pleasant climbing up an easy wall. The supposed 6a was overgraded: I kept religiously to the bolt line, and there were a few vaguely technical moves, but the route is 5+ at most. Similarly, much further left, Slow, Araf, Slow is never f6a. Some sloping holds lead up a slab to a slanting crack, then a steep but juggy finish up the wall above. Not bad, but overgraded. I think I have done the two easy slabby routes to the left before, both longish, and both finishing up a horrible band of shale.
Sunday, July 16, 2017
Kentmere horseshoe
Race: Kentmere Horseshoe fell race (20k/3300ft/AM)
Peaks: Ill Bell, High Street, Kentmere Pike
Time/Position: 1.58.28 (62nd from 346)
Our third trip to the Lakes to tick off a classic fell race this year. This one, which is almost as old as me, echoed the Anniversary Waltz (but contrasted with Ennerdale) in that it coincided with some wonderful weather. It echoed the Waltz in another way too, as my time was almost exactly the same (3 seconds quicker) although it was a much worse performance as I was still tired after last week and certainly felt Thursday's giant Watzmann traverse in my legs as we set off up the delightful lanes and tracks from Kentmere village. I have walked this circuit before, and have done at least two mountain marathons in the area, so had some knowledge of the peaks. The route climbs sharply over the shoulder of the Garburn Pass to a bog which leads to a path contouring the tops of Yoke and Froswick. I gained some places after a crowded start, and pushed on a bit to the top of Ill Bell. Wonderful views over the valley and rest of the horseshoe from here. It is a long but runnable haul to the top of High Street from here. To an extent, the rest of the race is just one long downhill blast, but this is actually a lot tougher than I remembered from previous visits, another possible indication of residual fatigue after last week. Brilliant views of the whole horseshoe as I descended towards Mardale Ill Bell, missing a shortcut, then a quick climb up the ridge leads to a narrow contouring line to gain the wide ridge towards Kentmere Pike. This is a short climb, and the descent then continues, although it was surprisingly rocky and boggy in places. I held my position reasonably well, although missed the tape marking the final descent to the village, along with dozens of other runners (it was obscured). Not sure if this made it much longer, but I finished running uphill on tarmac back to the field. A tremendous, logical horseshoe, and another great race.
Peaks: Ill Bell, High Street, Kentmere Pike
Time/Position: 1.58.28 (62nd from 346)
Our third trip to the Lakes to tick off a classic fell race this year. This one, which is almost as old as me, echoed the Anniversary Waltz (but contrasted with Ennerdale) in that it coincided with some wonderful weather. It echoed the Waltz in another way too, as my time was almost exactly the same (3 seconds quicker) although it was a much worse performance as I was still tired after last week and certainly felt Thursday's giant Watzmann traverse in my legs as we set off up the delightful lanes and tracks from Kentmere village. I have walked this circuit before, and have done at least two mountain marathons in the area, so had some knowledge of the peaks. The route climbs sharply over the shoulder of the Garburn Pass to a bog which leads to a path contouring the tops of Yoke and Froswick. I gained some places after a crowded start, and pushed on a bit to the top of Ill Bell. Wonderful views over the valley and rest of the horseshoe from here. It is a long but runnable haul to the top of High Street from here. To an extent, the rest of the race is just one long downhill blast, but this is actually a lot tougher than I remembered from previous visits, another possible indication of residual fatigue after last week. Brilliant views of the whole horseshoe as I descended towards Mardale Ill Bell, missing a shortcut, then a quick climb up the ridge leads to a narrow contouring line to gain the wide ridge towards Kentmere Pike. This is a short climb, and the descent then continues, although it was surprisingly rocky and boggy in places. I held my position reasonably well, although missed the tape marking the final descent to the village, along with dozens of other runners (it was obscured). Not sure if this made it much longer, but I finished running uphill on tarmac back to the field. A tremendous, logical horseshoe, and another great race.
Thursday, July 13, 2017
Watzmann traverse
Peaks: Hocheck (2651m), Watzmann Mittelspitze (2713m), Watzmann Sudspitze (2712m)
Route: Uberschreitung (uI+)
Area: Watzmann, Berchtesgaden, Germany
One of the most famous ridge traverses in the Eastern Alps, this was a memorable way to finish the trip. Our weather luck deserted us, however, with a howling gale slamming into the hut all night and only gradually easing this morning. It all made for a relaxed start, given the magnitude of the task in front of us: the standard time for the full traverse is an alarming 15.5 hours. The precipitous main ridge is just the start of the day: there follows a huge descent 'down the back' of the Watzmann, the terrain and scenery superb throughout. It all meant a leisurely breakfast of speck, rye bread and cheese, with litres of coffee, as clouds continued to wreathe the hut and gusts continued to batter the walls. Eventually, we set off after the rain diminished to a light drizzle and the wind dropped somewhat. The Hocheck is a bit of a slog, but the path meanders upwards to take in some limestone slabs and a short section of scrambling before embarking on the steep, roof-like final climb. The clag was persistent up here, the slabby limestone wet, and the air temperatures uncomfortably cold even without factoring in the wind (2C at the summit, wind chill well below this). I emerged at the Hocheck summit cross a few minutes ahead of Vic, so ducked inside the bivouac shelter nestled at the start of the ridge traverse to sort myself out. The door was locked from the inside, where 12-15 people nestled in a tiny space, waiting for the weather to improve. Several other parties just retreated down from the Hocheck. I waited, and waited - but for some unaccountable reason, Vic didn't come through the door. I went back to the summit cross and peered into the gloom: no sign. After 25 minutes, I decided he must have walked past the hut and started the traverse, but I couldn't be sure, so set off myself, rather tentatively for that reason. It is exposed immediately, but the clag remained stubborn and the rock wet throughout. The wind was dropping, however, so it was perfectly reasonable particularly given the fact that all exposed sections have via ferrata style chains and the like. A sharp arete, very narrow, led to a tricky descent and a series of gangways. A brief clearance to the west revealed a pair of climbers in front (perhaps the only other people to do the traverse today), while to the west, mist obscured the famous 1800m Ostwand/East Face. A spectacular scene and by know I was into the rhythm of the scrambling. It was absolutely wonderful - absorbing and enjoyable, continually varied. A steep gendarme followed by a gully descent was rather awkward, but the Mittelspitze was gained quickly via the Felsen-fenstergrat, no more than 45 minutes from Hocheck, even with my cautious and deliberate approach. No sign of Vic, and all my texts were bouncing back to me. I waited for a long time at the summit, partly hoping for a clearance, partly to give Vic a chance to catch up just in case he was behind. Eventually, the urge to continue got the better of me, and a catwalk led to more superb continuous scrambling. Every so often, huge gendarmes and pinnacles would start to emerge from the mist, only to be swallowed up again when I got the camera out! The section from Mittel to Sudspitze is much longer and more involved, descending the 'zickzacks' to the huge Zackengrat gendarme, which is circumvented via a circuitous detour over the western side of the ridge - intricate and absorbing. Eventually, I heard from Vic - he was already on the South Summit! So I powered past the pair in front and continued along the very narrow section of ridge that precedes the final climb to the South Summit: this knife-edge is avoided by a cat walk in places, but at other times the only way is a'cheval over the knife-edge itself. Above lies the Sudspitze, where all exposure ends - a surprisingly flat and large summit and a very sudden change from the rest of the ridge. The clag remained as thick as ever, but I found Vic sheltering behind some rocks: he was cold, so started the descent after a couple of photos. I had a sandwich first, then set off in pursuit down the vast south 'face' of the mountain. Initially, the line picks an intricate and twisting way down a giant couloir interspersed with small rocky sections. This was enjoyable, and continued the scrambling tone of the day: it reminded me a little of the descent down the western side of Tryfan, albeit it on a far grander scale. As we emerged at the huge scree slopes that form the Schonfeldschnied, we dropped below the clag for the first time, revealing gigantic walls of limestone towering into the mist and an impressive continuation ridge dropping down to the valley. The scree allowed for a rapid descent initially, although it was all quite steep. As we dropped, further clearances began to reveal the stunning valley in front - and there followed an hour or so of the most incredible skies as the mist peeled away from the Grosser Hundstod in front and the Hoch Kalter to the west. Limestone spires wreathed in tendrils of mist, with us looking down on the scene: very memorable and very photogenic. After a snack watching these magnificent scenes unfold, we continued down a mixture of grass, scree and rocky sections, still tortuous and weaving to avoid a canyon where the streams dropped down to the valley base. A long chained section down an eroded spur finally allowed us to gain the Bangraben in the Wimbachtal valley itself. The scenery here, marked Schonfeldgraben, is the equal of anything in the Alps: in fact, it is somewhat atypical, and reminiscent more of Canada or parts of the Himalaya. Intermittent conifer forest, and a vast dry storm channel, surrounded by spires of rock. We finally gained a the standard path down the Wimbachtal for the final, very long, section back to the car: perhaps 13k? A delightful walk ensued, initially down the valley to the obvious target of the Wimbachgrieshutte where we stopped for tea and goulaschsuppe. Wonderfully restorative, sitting on benches in the sunshine while the mist peeled away from the spectacular Sigaretkopf to the south-west. Fortified, we ploughed down the remainder of the Wimbachtal, which begins to curve round to the north at this point, first to the Wimbachschloss, and then to the forested hills above the Wimbachbrucke. It was all a very long way, but played to our strengths, as did the entire traverse.
Route: Uberschreitung (uI+)
Area: Watzmann, Berchtesgaden, Germany
One of the most famous ridge traverses in the Eastern Alps, this was a memorable way to finish the trip. Our weather luck deserted us, however, with a howling gale slamming into the hut all night and only gradually easing this morning. It all made for a relaxed start, given the magnitude of the task in front of us: the standard time for the full traverse is an alarming 15.5 hours. The precipitous main ridge is just the start of the day: there follows a huge descent 'down the back' of the Watzmann, the terrain and scenery superb throughout. It all meant a leisurely breakfast of speck, rye bread and cheese, with litres of coffee, as clouds continued to wreathe the hut and gusts continued to batter the walls. Eventually, we set off after the rain diminished to a light drizzle and the wind dropped somewhat. The Hocheck is a bit of a slog, but the path meanders upwards to take in some limestone slabs and a short section of scrambling before embarking on the steep, roof-like final climb. The clag was persistent up here, the slabby limestone wet, and the air temperatures uncomfortably cold even without factoring in the wind (2C at the summit, wind chill well below this). I emerged at the Hocheck summit cross a few minutes ahead of Vic, so ducked inside the bivouac shelter nestled at the start of the ridge traverse to sort myself out. The door was locked from the inside, where 12-15 people nestled in a tiny space, waiting for the weather to improve. Several other parties just retreated down from the Hocheck. I waited, and waited - but for some unaccountable reason, Vic didn't come through the door. I went back to the summit cross and peered into the gloom: no sign. After 25 minutes, I decided he must have walked past the hut and started the traverse, but I couldn't be sure, so set off myself, rather tentatively for that reason. It is exposed immediately, but the clag remained stubborn and the rock wet throughout. The wind was dropping, however, so it was perfectly reasonable particularly given the fact that all exposed sections have via ferrata style chains and the like. A sharp arete, very narrow, led to a tricky descent and a series of gangways. A brief clearance to the west revealed a pair of climbers in front (perhaps the only other people to do the traverse today), while to the west, mist obscured the famous 1800m Ostwand/East Face. A spectacular scene and by know I was into the rhythm of the scrambling. It was absolutely wonderful - absorbing and enjoyable, continually varied. A steep gendarme followed by a gully descent was rather awkward, but the Mittelspitze was gained quickly via the Felsen-fenstergrat, no more than 45 minutes from Hocheck, even with my cautious and deliberate approach. No sign of Vic, and all my texts were bouncing back to me. I waited for a long time at the summit, partly hoping for a clearance, partly to give Vic a chance to catch up just in case he was behind. Eventually, the urge to continue got the better of me, and a catwalk led to more superb continuous scrambling. Every so often, huge gendarmes and pinnacles would start to emerge from the mist, only to be swallowed up again when I got the camera out! The section from Mittel to Sudspitze is much longer and more involved, descending the 'zickzacks' to the huge Zackengrat gendarme, which is circumvented via a circuitous detour over the western side of the ridge - intricate and absorbing. Eventually, I heard from Vic - he was already on the South Summit! So I powered past the pair in front and continued along the very narrow section of ridge that precedes the final climb to the South Summit: this knife-edge is avoided by a cat walk in places, but at other times the only way is a'cheval over the knife-edge itself. Above lies the Sudspitze, where all exposure ends - a surprisingly flat and large summit and a very sudden change from the rest of the ridge. The clag remained as thick as ever, but I found Vic sheltering behind some rocks: he was cold, so started the descent after a couple of photos. I had a sandwich first, then set off in pursuit down the vast south 'face' of the mountain. Initially, the line picks an intricate and twisting way down a giant couloir interspersed with small rocky sections. This was enjoyable, and continued the scrambling tone of the day: it reminded me a little of the descent down the western side of Tryfan, albeit it on a far grander scale. As we emerged at the huge scree slopes that form the Schonfeldschnied, we dropped below the clag for the first time, revealing gigantic walls of limestone towering into the mist and an impressive continuation ridge dropping down to the valley. The scree allowed for a rapid descent initially, although it was all quite steep. As we dropped, further clearances began to reveal the stunning valley in front - and there followed an hour or so of the most incredible skies as the mist peeled away from the Grosser Hundstod in front and the Hoch Kalter to the west. Limestone spires wreathed in tendrils of mist, with us looking down on the scene: very memorable and very photogenic. After a snack watching these magnificent scenes unfold, we continued down a mixture of grass, scree and rocky sections, still tortuous and weaving to avoid a canyon where the streams dropped down to the valley base. A long chained section down an eroded spur finally allowed us to gain the Bangraben in the Wimbachtal valley itself. The scenery here, marked Schonfeldgraben, is the equal of anything in the Alps: in fact, it is somewhat atypical, and reminiscent more of Canada or parts of the Himalaya. Intermittent conifer forest, and a vast dry storm channel, surrounded by spires of rock. We finally gained a the standard path down the Wimbachtal for the final, very long, section back to the car: perhaps 13k? A delightful walk ensued, initially down the valley to the obvious target of the Wimbachgrieshutte where we stopped for tea and goulaschsuppe. Wonderfully restorative, sitting on benches in the sunshine while the mist peeled away from the spectacular Sigaretkopf to the south-west. Fortified, we ploughed down the remainder of the Wimbachtal, which begins to curve round to the north at this point, first to the Wimbachschloss, and then to the forested hills above the Wimbachbrucke. It was all a very long way, but played to our strengths, as did the entire traverse.
Wednesday, July 12, 2017
Wimbachbrucke to Watzmannhaus
Although I do a fair amount of research before every trip, I occasionally skirt over inconvenient details. This was one such example: I presumed the walk-in to the Watzmannhaus was short and simple. It is actually (in theory) a four-hour walk up a 1400m vertical interval - which wasn't ideal after a rather intense few days. We were, however, pleased that we had been disciplined and severely limited the scope of this morning's climbing - and managed to reach the hut in a leisurely but sustained 2.5 hours. Wimbachbrucke is a busy focal point for lots of walks and mountain outings, but we were able to park because of the late hour. Long and sweaty zigzags, humidity building, led through deep forest to a clearance below the Stubenalm. The skies had darkened and thunder began to rumble around: time for coats and a snack. The hut was still well above us (it can be seen from the valley as it is spectacularly sited on the edge of a spur running down from the high peaks, overlooking the entire valley). It seemed that an unwelcome repeat of Saturday night's drenching was on the cards, not a prospect to be relished, although the trees seemed likely to shelter us from the worst of the storm. In the event, despite some heavy rain, the thunder and lightning stayed distant. Past the Mitterkaseralm, steep paths led to open mountainside and spectacular views to the pyramidal Kleiner Watzmann directly in front. The skyscape changed continually - with clouds shifting in and out and occasional rainbows below us in the valley. At one point, streamers of cloud blew over the ridge and were backlit by the sun. A few chamois and a probable black woodpecker (lower in the forest) also enlivened the slog upwards, which ended with a few wet zigzags and then a burst of glorious sunshine in bracing winds as we emerged two minutes below the hut - as I looked over the misty valley to the east my glory appeared in the valley below, a huge shadow ringed by a rainbow, the 5th or 6th time I have experienced this famous phenomenon. Above rose another range of peaks above the town of Berchtesgaden nestling in the valley way below. We retired to the large (but cosy and convivial) hut for a stormy night, westerly gusts battering the hut continually, refuelling on the excellent local helles brew, with dumplings, speck and kaiserschmarrn.
Gamsfelsen climbing
Crag: Gamsfelsen, Ellmau, Wilder Kaiser
Routes: Aser (f4:led), Trager (f6+:led), Lauscher (f6+:led), Gamsbart (f5+:led), Auf der Pirsch (f5:led), Kruckel (f4:led), Ameisentanz (f3:sec)
It felt wrong to be surrounded by the highest Wilder Kaiser peaks but playing around on this little crag. However, there were good reasons for this. Firstly, we were tired. Secondly, we were walking in to the Watzmann hut later and had the full traverse in store tomorrow. In addition, I had been here before - driving to the Wochunbrunner Alm in 2011 before traversing the Ellmauer Tor and climbing three of the highest peaks (indeed the Vordere Goinger Halt and Ellmauer Halt towered above us today, looking satisfyingly impressive). A steep walk up from the Alm leads to the Gaudeamushutte hut and delightful Alpine pastures. It was a glorious morning, with the cow bells tinkling and truly wonderful views over Ellmauer and the verdant Hohe Salve to the Zillertal and Venediger beyond. The crag was indeed small, but perfect for a spot of mild cragging in a supremely tranquil and scenic environment. We swept the crag from left to right, beginning with the pleasant arete taken by Aser, then upping the grade for two delicate 6+ routes which had thought-provoking crux moves on tiny pockets and edges. The two grade 5s were juggy, fairly steep and enjoyable, although all over too quickly. We both led every route, apart from the f3 at the right-hand side which we both climbed one handed! After a picnic at Wochunbrunner, we drove east through Lofer and its gorge into Germany and, after a coffee in Ramsau, parked at Wimbachbruke for the walk-in to the Watzmannhaus.
Routes: Aser (f4:led), Trager (f6+:led), Lauscher (f6+:led), Gamsbart (f5+:led), Auf der Pirsch (f5:led), Kruckel (f4:led), Ameisentanz (f3:sec)
It felt wrong to be surrounded by the highest Wilder Kaiser peaks but playing around on this little crag. However, there were good reasons for this. Firstly, we were tired. Secondly, we were walking in to the Watzmann hut later and had the full traverse in store tomorrow. In addition, I had been here before - driving to the Wochunbrunner Alm in 2011 before traversing the Ellmauer Tor and climbing three of the highest peaks (indeed the Vordere Goinger Halt and Ellmauer Halt towered above us today, looking satisfyingly impressive). A steep walk up from the Alm leads to the Gaudeamushutte hut and delightful Alpine pastures. It was a glorious morning, with the cow bells tinkling and truly wonderful views over Ellmauer and the verdant Hohe Salve to the Zillertal and Venediger beyond. The crag was indeed small, but perfect for a spot of mild cragging in a supremely tranquil and scenic environment. We swept the crag from left to right, beginning with the pleasant arete taken by Aser, then upping the grade for two delicate 6+ routes which had thought-provoking crux moves on tiny pockets and edges. The two grade 5s were juggy, fairly steep and enjoyable, although all over too quickly. We both led every route, apart from the f3 at the right-hand side which we both climbed one handed! After a picnic at Wochunbrunner, we drove east through Lofer and its gorge into Germany and, after a coffee in Ramsau, parked at Wimbachbruke for the walk-in to the Watzmannhaus.
Tuesday, July 11, 2017
Achleiten climbing
Crag: Achleiten, Soll, Austria
Routes: Tannenweg (f4:sec), Eulenweg (f5c:led), Direkter Eulenweg (f6a:sec), Weg zur Eibe (f5:led)
Tired after the run up Scheffauer, and the previous two days, this steep and strenuous crag was probably not the ideal choice for a spot of relaxed climbing. But it was Soll's local crag and gave us a different perspective on the landscape at this end of the range. A long and twisting drive up the side of the valley led to a longish, but mercifully largely downhill walk-in. The crag is relentlessly steep throughout, its lower half hidden by trees, its upper half exposed to full sunshine as it was now mid-afternoon. The crag has a rather complex structure, which we tried to partially unlock by doing the easy Tannenweg up slabs to gain an obvious ledge system, above which several other reasonably graded routes made their way. I led up Eulenweg, which took a shallow groove diagonally right to finish up a steep wall. Here, we had our first encounter with a bizarre feature of the crag: numerous 'knobs' of dark rock protruding from the limestone. These often provided pinch holds, or crucial footholds, my geological knowledge is insufficient to identify: fossilised wood perhaps? I lowered off below the true finish of the climb, frying in intense afternoon sunshine with the humidity building, and tiring rapidly after the morning run. Vic unlocked the crucial upper section, and I then followed up with the Direct version straight through the lower bulge - powerful but good, hidden holds - and completed the route with an excellent crux move stepping left onto a steep wall using those 'knobs'. We retreated to the shade at the bottom of the crag and finished with Weg zur Eibe, which was a fine route up a steep slab to a pull over an overhang and good climbing above using the knobs. A clap of thunder as I lowered off, and this heralded another storm, which turned out to be less intense than the others.
Routes: Tannenweg (f4:sec), Eulenweg (f5c:led), Direkter Eulenweg (f6a:sec), Weg zur Eibe (f5:led)
Tired after the run up Scheffauer, and the previous two days, this steep and strenuous crag was probably not the ideal choice for a spot of relaxed climbing. But it was Soll's local crag and gave us a different perspective on the landscape at this end of the range. A long and twisting drive up the side of the valley led to a longish, but mercifully largely downhill walk-in. The crag is relentlessly steep throughout, its lower half hidden by trees, its upper half exposed to full sunshine as it was now mid-afternoon. The crag has a rather complex structure, which we tried to partially unlock by doing the easy Tannenweg up slabs to gain an obvious ledge system, above which several other reasonably graded routes made their way. I led up Eulenweg, which took a shallow groove diagonally right to finish up a steep wall. Here, we had our first encounter with a bizarre feature of the crag: numerous 'knobs' of dark rock protruding from the limestone. These often provided pinch holds, or crucial footholds, my geological knowledge is insufficient to identify: fossilised wood perhaps? I lowered off below the true finish of the climb, frying in intense afternoon sunshine with the humidity building, and tiring rapidly after the morning run. Vic unlocked the crucial upper section, and I then followed up with the Direct version straight through the lower bulge - powerful but good, hidden holds - and completed the route with an excellent crux move stepping left onto a steep wall using those 'knobs'. We retreated to the shade at the bottom of the crag and finished with Weg zur Eibe, which was a fine route up a steep slab to a pull over an overhang and good climbing above using the knobs. A clap of thunder as I lowered off, and this heralded another storm, which turned out to be less intense than the others.
Scheffauer run
Peak: Scheffauer (2111m)
Area: Wilder Kaiser, Austria
Although we had gorged ourselves on rock yesterday, I was conscious that the high peaks beckoned and was keen to add to the list of Wilder Kaiser summits I had climbed in 2011. A beautiful morning, and after strudel and coffee in Soll we drove up to Barnstatt above Scheffau where I set out for the village's signature peak: Sheffauer itself, which dominates the western fringes of the range. A rather fearsome 1300m vertical interval lay in wait, along with a walking time of four hours to reach the summit, six hours for the round trip. Vic went for a coffee and I gave myself a target of two hours to reach the summit and back. Good running up tracks led to a clearing, then hairpins up to the wonderfully positioned Steiner Hochalm. Above, the path steepens to reach dense forest which eventually gives way to open screes below the headwall that marks the end of the main Wilder Kaiser ridge. A vague path ran diagonally up through the screes and made for quick progress as it was largely runnable. Once beyond the screes, the route becomes more tortuous, weaving up little rocky sections to eventually engage in another long traverse, diagonally leftwards this time, directly below the limestone headwall. It was all really enjoyable, as wisps of mist drifted across the face of the Sonneck to the east. A chained section took wet slabs below a large overhang until more scrambling led straight up to the pronounced col on the main Wilder Kaiser ridge line. The mist cleared at the exact point that I reached the col, providing an absolutely spectacular backdrop and wonderful views. A short run along grass then rocks led to the cross on the summit of the Scheffauer - in 71 minutes from the car, which I was quite pleased with. It was immediately clear that I had chosen my objective wisely, as it essentially marks the western extremity of the range: beyond, the ridge just descends down to the stunning turquoise lake of the Hintersteiner See and the lower Bavarian Alps across the German border beyond. To the east, a stunning sight as the Hackenkopfe emerged from the mist, which boiled up from the south: the ridge to it looked superb and relatively easy, but I had to get back so pelted back down for a two hour round trip. This area has a totally different ambience and outlook than the peaks I climbed more centrally in 2011.
Area: Wilder Kaiser, Austria
Although we had gorged ourselves on rock yesterday, I was conscious that the high peaks beckoned and was keen to add to the list of Wilder Kaiser summits I had climbed in 2011. A beautiful morning, and after strudel and coffee in Soll we drove up to Barnstatt above Scheffau where I set out for the village's signature peak: Sheffauer itself, which dominates the western fringes of the range. A rather fearsome 1300m vertical interval lay in wait, along with a walking time of four hours to reach the summit, six hours for the round trip. Vic went for a coffee and I gave myself a target of two hours to reach the summit and back. Good running up tracks led to a clearing, then hairpins up to the wonderfully positioned Steiner Hochalm. Above, the path steepens to reach dense forest which eventually gives way to open screes below the headwall that marks the end of the main Wilder Kaiser ridge. A vague path ran diagonally up through the screes and made for quick progress as it was largely runnable. Once beyond the screes, the route becomes more tortuous, weaving up little rocky sections to eventually engage in another long traverse, diagonally leftwards this time, directly below the limestone headwall. It was all really enjoyable, as wisps of mist drifted across the face of the Sonneck to the east. A chained section took wet slabs below a large overhang until more scrambling led straight up to the pronounced col on the main Wilder Kaiser ridge line. The mist cleared at the exact point that I reached the col, providing an absolutely spectacular backdrop and wonderful views. A short run along grass then rocks led to the cross on the summit of the Scheffauer - in 71 minutes from the car, which I was quite pleased with. It was immediately clear that I had chosen my objective wisely, as it essentially marks the western extremity of the range: beyond, the ridge just descends down to the stunning turquoise lake of the Hintersteiner See and the lower Bavarian Alps across the German border beyond. To the east, a stunning sight as the Hackenkopfe emerged from the mist, which boiled up from the south: the ridge to it looked superb and relatively easy, but I had to get back so pelted back down for a two hour round trip. This area has a totally different ambience and outlook than the peaks I climbed more centrally in 2011.
Monday, July 10, 2017
Wildangerwandl climbing
Crag: Wildangerwandl, Totenkirchl, Wilder Kaiser
Routes: Cola Light (f4,5:led p.2), Goinger Wandl (f4+,4+:led p.2), Gargamel (f5+:sec), Via Christine (f4,4,4:led p.2)
Crag: Gams-Wandl, Fleischbank, Wilder Kaiser
Routes: Nass & Kalt (f5:led), Edelmischung (f5:sec)
After another wet night, drizzle in the morning meant it seemed unlikely we would get much done. However, over another leisurely and highly atypical hut breakfast, the rain began to clear to leave spectacular tendrils of mist in the valley containing these crags, which nestle between the walls of the Totenkirchl and Fleischbank lending them a spectacular and memorable backdrop. The walk-in from the hut is easy, and we arrived to find much of the cliff still dripping wet - although the sun was beginning to light the top of the slabby wall on the right where we started. The classics were occupied, so we started up Cola Light on the far right of the crag. Vic led a wet but easy first, very sparsely bolted, to a small stance. It quickly became obvious that this route wasn't the standard clip-up: my pitch traversed right past two spaced bolts, some delicate moves on wet holds, to gain a crack system. This was vegetated in places, and wet almost throughout. One peg and some threaded tat meant I was glad we had packed the wires and friends: it was just like being at home! The gear was good, though, as was the climbing, and it all made for a satisfying if unanticipated start. The two pitch Goinger Wandl was more conventional, taking a steeper crack line via two good pitches. Vic's first took a smooth slab to a juggy crack, while my second took the continuation with some enjoyable moves. Gargamel was a new, steeper addition, taking a curving crackline further left. After all this, the classic of the crag - Via Christine - finally became free after two parties finished climbing it. An excellent route, albeit perhaps the easiest of the day, gently sustained at British S/HS throughout three varied pitches. Vic's first pitch took an elegant, and dry, rib to a small stance. I led through on lovely bubbly limestone trending left towards an obvious capping overhang. Unsurprisingly, the rock was wet beneath the overhang, but it was superbly rough and juggy. A few pinched holds and upside down spikes allow the overhang to be skirted on the left. A final, exposed pitch up clean walls leads to the top of the crag. A very fine route: we just managed to get down in two abseils (we had a single 70m rope, which just about allowed us to use the abseil stations on this section of crag). A brilliant start to the day - 8 long pitches - but we now had it in our heads to indulge in a feeding frenzy and go for the favoured 1000ft of climbing target. After a quick lunch, we sauntered over to the nearby Gams-Wandl, a separate crag below the North Ridge of the Fleischbank. Despite its proximity, this crag has a friendlier atmosphere than the Wildanger, and looks up the valley towards the Stripsenjoch. The climbing is slabby and delicate, and is characterised by continuous waterworn tubes/pillars of impeccable limestone. I led up a completely dry route which took an easy slab to a steepening half tube of concrete-like limestone. This gave superb climbing with a mixture of delicate bridging up the tube and the occasional pocket and face hold. Another long 30m+ pitch, we were getting close to the 1000ft target. Vic completed proceedings with a lead of a similar line further left: also slabby, delicate and thought-provoking, particularly at the start with some tenuous and technical moves despite the very lowly grade. After this, reluctantly, we packed the gear after a superb day of climbing - 10 long pitches all around British VS. We were conscious of the fact that we had no accommodation booked in the valley, had not showered for two days, and had to recuperate. We scampered down to Griesenau and the car, drove round to the southern side of the range for a good feed in St Johan before booking an ideal cheap hotel in Soll where we refuelled on Tyrolean Rosti as another torrential storm blew in.
Routes: Cola Light (f4,5:led p.2), Goinger Wandl (f4+,4+:led p.2), Gargamel (f5+:sec), Via Christine (f4,4,4:led p.2)
Crag: Gams-Wandl, Fleischbank, Wilder Kaiser
Routes: Nass & Kalt (f5:led), Edelmischung (f5:sec)
After another wet night, drizzle in the morning meant it seemed unlikely we would get much done. However, over another leisurely and highly atypical hut breakfast, the rain began to clear to leave spectacular tendrils of mist in the valley containing these crags, which nestle between the walls of the Totenkirchl and Fleischbank lending them a spectacular and memorable backdrop. The walk-in from the hut is easy, and we arrived to find much of the cliff still dripping wet - although the sun was beginning to light the top of the slabby wall on the right where we started. The classics were occupied, so we started up Cola Light on the far right of the crag. Vic led a wet but easy first, very sparsely bolted, to a small stance. It quickly became obvious that this route wasn't the standard clip-up: my pitch traversed right past two spaced bolts, some delicate moves on wet holds, to gain a crack system. This was vegetated in places, and wet almost throughout. One peg and some threaded tat meant I was glad we had packed the wires and friends: it was just like being at home! The gear was good, though, as was the climbing, and it all made for a satisfying if unanticipated start. The two pitch Goinger Wandl was more conventional, taking a steeper crack line via two good pitches. Vic's first took a smooth slab to a juggy crack, while my second took the continuation with some enjoyable moves. Gargamel was a new, steeper addition, taking a curving crackline further left. After all this, the classic of the crag - Via Christine - finally became free after two parties finished climbing it. An excellent route, albeit perhaps the easiest of the day, gently sustained at British S/HS throughout three varied pitches. Vic's first pitch took an elegant, and dry, rib to a small stance. I led through on lovely bubbly limestone trending left towards an obvious capping overhang. Unsurprisingly, the rock was wet beneath the overhang, but it was superbly rough and juggy. A few pinched holds and upside down spikes allow the overhang to be skirted on the left. A final, exposed pitch up clean walls leads to the top of the crag. A very fine route: we just managed to get down in two abseils (we had a single 70m rope, which just about allowed us to use the abseil stations on this section of crag). A brilliant start to the day - 8 long pitches - but we now had it in our heads to indulge in a feeding frenzy and go for the favoured 1000ft of climbing target. After a quick lunch, we sauntered over to the nearby Gams-Wandl, a separate crag below the North Ridge of the Fleischbank. Despite its proximity, this crag has a friendlier atmosphere than the Wildanger, and looks up the valley towards the Stripsenjoch. The climbing is slabby and delicate, and is characterised by continuous waterworn tubes/pillars of impeccable limestone. I led up a completely dry route which took an easy slab to a steepening half tube of concrete-like limestone. This gave superb climbing with a mixture of delicate bridging up the tube and the occasional pocket and face hold. Another long 30m+ pitch, we were getting close to the 1000ft target. Vic completed proceedings with a lead of a similar line further left: also slabby, delicate and thought-provoking, particularly at the start with some tenuous and technical moves despite the very lowly grade. After this, reluctantly, we packed the gear after a superb day of climbing - 10 long pitches all around British VS. We were conscious of the fact that we had no accommodation booked in the valley, had not showered for two days, and had to recuperate. We scampered down to Griesenau and the car, drove round to the southern side of the range for a good feed in St Johan before booking an ideal cheap hotel in Soll where we refuelled on Tyrolean Rosti as another torrential storm blew in.
Sunday, July 09, 2017
Hundskopf climbing
Crag: Hundskopf, Stripsenkopf, Wilder Kaiser
Routes: Lupo (f4:sec), Idefix (f5:led), Amadeus (f4+:led)
After our uneccessary reccie of the other crags, and the 10 pitches of the Fuhrerweg, we perhaps should have retired to the hut for Strudel. However, we were conscious of the mixed forecast for the week, and decided to take advantage of the sunshine to climb on the Hundskopf. Again, I had been here before: doing the via ferrata in 2011. This time, we took the gear and fried, both on the steep walk up, and in the direct sunshine on the west facing crags. As ever, stupendous views across to the walls of the main Wilder Kaiser, and a great place to pick out the line of this morning's long route. The climbing on the Hundskopf is undistinguished, particularly given the grand surroundings, but it was a pleasant place to spend the afternoon. Vic led Lupo, which took a wide and twisting crack to a steeper section up juggy ledges. I led Idefix, a tad harder, up the vague arete to the right. This had some nice moves up to a steep slab below an overhang. Moves right gain a sharp arete and a pull over to the finish: longish pitch. Amadeus was another longish ridge pitch to the left, after which it was a race against time to avoid the next thunderstorm galloping in from the west: the first rumbles and flashes came as Vic failed on a harder route. We both abbed off to retrieve the gear, packed the stuff in record time, and ran back to the hut. This time, in contrast to last night, we got there just in the nick of time as the heavens opened. A splendid evening of refuelling followed: superb beer, soup, Wiener Schnitzel and Topfenstrudel.
Routes: Lupo (f4:sec), Idefix (f5:led), Amadeus (f4+:led)
After our uneccessary reccie of the other crags, and the 10 pitches of the Fuhrerweg, we perhaps should have retired to the hut for Strudel. However, we were conscious of the mixed forecast for the week, and decided to take advantage of the sunshine to climb on the Hundskopf. Again, I had been here before: doing the via ferrata in 2011. This time, we took the gear and fried, both on the steep walk up, and in the direct sunshine on the west facing crags. As ever, stupendous views across to the walls of the main Wilder Kaiser, and a great place to pick out the line of this morning's long route. The climbing on the Hundskopf is undistinguished, particularly given the grand surroundings, but it was a pleasant place to spend the afternoon. Vic led Lupo, which took a wide and twisting crack to a steeper section up juggy ledges. I led Idefix, a tad harder, up the vague arete to the right. This had some nice moves up to a steep slab below an overhang. Moves right gain a sharp arete and a pull over to the finish: longish pitch. Amadeus was another longish ridge pitch to the left, after which it was a race against time to avoid the next thunderstorm galloping in from the west: the first rumbles and flashes came as Vic failed on a harder route. We both abbed off to retrieve the gear, packed the stuff in record time, and ran back to the hut. This time, in contrast to last night, we got there just in the nick of time as the heavens opened. A splendid evening of refuelling followed: superb beer, soup, Wiener Schnitzel and Topfenstrudel.
Fuhrerweg climb
Crag: Totenkirchl, Wilder Kaiser, Austria
Route: Fuhrerweg (u2,3-,2,2,3,2,3-,3,2:led p.2,4,6,8,10)
This historic route, which finds an easy way through the outrageous rock walls of the Totenkirchl, seemed an ideal way to start our trip. It is little more than a scramble technically, around UK Diff in standard, but is the only real line of resistance and so is (very mildly) committing. After a wet night, the day dawned clear and we sat around in the sunshine eating breakfast: not something I have ever done before at a mountain hut. This casual approach had a price: we walked along the wooded ridge towards the face and spied a few parties ahead of us. We were inevitably going to get caught behind them. The initial ridge is delightful, and leads to a broad scree gully leading up to the walls of the Totenkirchl which tower above. One awkward move round a jammed boulder leads to a widening, before the first 50m 'pitch' is reached. This is just a scramble, around grade II climbing, but very enjoyable and sustained the whole way. At the stance, we roped up and realised we were going nowhere fast, with two or three pairs above. However, we soon reconciled ourselves to our fate, a relaxed start to the trip - and, as I was concerned about the possibility of storms, I was consoled by the fact that we would be able to retreat first if a storm rolled in later on. Still, it was frustrating to have to wait for three separate parties on such an easy route which we could have quickly romped up. I led the steeper second, which took a wet chimney on slippery and polished limestone. A long traverse then led to an 8 metre downclimb into a gap above a long chimney, which gave Vic the lead of the crucial 'Fuhrerwandl' pitch. This looks steep from across the gap, but is actually slabby and delightfully juggy: a nice pitch with one tricky move to finish. Another long traverse right gains the base of the main chimney system, known as the Fuhrerkamin, a huge feature very clearly visible from the hut. Vic led up the waterworn groove itself in one long rope length. I led through, up steep rock to the right of an obvious constriction then continued up the chimney line to some tat above some huge jammed boulders. From my stance, I realised I had gone too high and missed the crucial leftward traverse! This was annoying, as we had climbed past the slowest party by now and were making rapid progress. But I was able to secure the downclimb by clipping the tat and joined Vic for the leftwards escape from the main chimney system. This leads to a subsidiary chimney groove (the Leuchsrinne), which is easier, and heads up to the main terrace. As we completed the pitch, a triple clap of thunder rang out. Decision time. We had done all the climbing on the main part of the route - the rest is a walk up the terrace to a short pitch below the summit. I had no desire to be caught in a storm high up on the mountain, although Vic felt we should wait to see if the storm passed. We went with retreat which, on this occasion was the wrong decision, but I still felt it was sound mountain judgment. Indeed, we had to reverse the entire route anyway, with a series of at least 8 abseils. When we got to the base, the sun came out and all danger of storms passed: such is the nature of the game. We picked an exposed an tenuous line down through spectacular pyramids to the east, intent on finding the Wildangerwald. This was unnecessarily tiring in the building heat, wasted energy, and we finally retreated back up to the hut for water before setting out for some afternoon cragging on the Hundskopf.
Route: Fuhrerweg (u2,3-,2,2,3,2,3-,3,2:led p.2,4,6,8,10)
This historic route, which finds an easy way through the outrageous rock walls of the Totenkirchl, seemed an ideal way to start our trip. It is little more than a scramble technically, around UK Diff in standard, but is the only real line of resistance and so is (very mildly) committing. After a wet night, the day dawned clear and we sat around in the sunshine eating breakfast: not something I have ever done before at a mountain hut. This casual approach had a price: we walked along the wooded ridge towards the face and spied a few parties ahead of us. We were inevitably going to get caught behind them. The initial ridge is delightful, and leads to a broad scree gully leading up to the walls of the Totenkirchl which tower above. One awkward move round a jammed boulder leads to a widening, before the first 50m 'pitch' is reached. This is just a scramble, around grade II climbing, but very enjoyable and sustained the whole way. At the stance, we roped up and realised we were going nowhere fast, with two or three pairs above. However, we soon reconciled ourselves to our fate, a relaxed start to the trip - and, as I was concerned about the possibility of storms, I was consoled by the fact that we would be able to retreat first if a storm rolled in later on. Still, it was frustrating to have to wait for three separate parties on such an easy route which we could have quickly romped up. I led the steeper second, which took a wet chimney on slippery and polished limestone. A long traverse then led to an 8 metre downclimb into a gap above a long chimney, which gave Vic the lead of the crucial 'Fuhrerwandl' pitch. This looks steep from across the gap, but is actually slabby and delightfully juggy: a nice pitch with one tricky move to finish. Another long traverse right gains the base of the main chimney system, known as the Fuhrerkamin, a huge feature very clearly visible from the hut. Vic led up the waterworn groove itself in one long rope length. I led through, up steep rock to the right of an obvious constriction then continued up the chimney line to some tat above some huge jammed boulders. From my stance, I realised I had gone too high and missed the crucial leftward traverse! This was annoying, as we had climbed past the slowest party by now and were making rapid progress. But I was able to secure the downclimb by clipping the tat and joined Vic for the leftwards escape from the main chimney system. This leads to a subsidiary chimney groove (the Leuchsrinne), which is easier, and heads up to the main terrace. As we completed the pitch, a triple clap of thunder rang out. Decision time. We had done all the climbing on the main part of the route - the rest is a walk up the terrace to a short pitch below the summit. I had no desire to be caught in a storm high up on the mountain, although Vic felt we should wait to see if the storm passed. We went with retreat which, on this occasion was the wrong decision, but I still felt it was sound mountain judgment. Indeed, we had to reverse the entire route anyway, with a series of at least 8 abseils. When we got to the base, the sun came out and all danger of storms passed: such is the nature of the game. We picked an exposed an tenuous line down through spectacular pyramids to the east, intent on finding the Wildangerwald. This was unnecessarily tiring in the building heat, wasted energy, and we finally retreated back up to the hut for water before setting out for some afternoon cragging on the Hundskopf.
Saturday, July 08, 2017
Griesenau to Stripsenjoch
I've been caught in a few storms in my time, but none quite as sudden or violent as this one, which made for an unexpectedly memorable hut walk at the start of this year's Alpine trip. We had flown into Munich in the afternoon, stopped for a pizza at Walchsee and started the short walk in to Stripsenjoch unusually late, almost 7pm. The reason for this casual approach was that we had booked places, and I had previously visited the hut in 2011 from the much longer northern approach via the Eggersteig and knew this way to be far easier. It was indeed, but we didn't factor in the storm which blew in very rapidly as we contoured up through the trees in worsening light and increasing humidity. The view up to the Ellmaeur Tor from here is spectacular, arguably Europe's most dramatic col. We were stripped to the waist initially, then came a distant clap of thunder. By the time we emerged from the woods, the storm had blown in (from the other side of the Stripsenjoch to the west - which was why it took us by surprise). Soon, torrential rain and squally gusts accompanied the thunder and lightning. Mercifully, the hut's lights glimmered not too far above, so we put our running fitness to good use and increased the speed, with headtorches and coats replacing the bare chests! Water cascaded from the slabs above the path - as Vic said, it was like being in a car wash without the car. I likened it to having buckets of water thrown over you. Explosions of thunder and seemingly constant lightning flashes as we crested the col and scampered into the warmth and conviviality of the hut, totally sodden. Time for one beer before bed in our own room in the separate hut building.
Tuesday, July 04, 2017
Pen Trwyn climbing
Crag: Pen Trwyn, Llandudno
Routes: Belay Bunny Bounces Back (f6a+:led), Really Exciting Climb (VS 5a:sec), Vic 20 (HVS 5a:sec), Captain Percival (f6a+:led)
Intermittent visits to the Orme over many years tend to end the same way - tail between the legs, defeated by the steep and sustained nature of the climbing. This was only a partial exception, in the sense that we got four decent routes in before the pump kicked in on a harder route. I am at least now building a reasonable list of routes around the Orme, albeit slowly! I kicked off with the f6a+ that we failed on at the end of a tiring session a couple of years ago. Like all the routes here, it is steep to start, focusing the mind immediately with a series of sustained moves on good holds. Once passed the third bolt, it eases slightly but is sustained up to here. It is pumpy, though, deceptively steep as ever on this crag, and I weighted the fourth bolt briefly even though this is after the crux. Above, it eases but remains thought-provoking. The VS to its right is a bit of a sandbag, steep moves to a polished crack which gives nice climbing. Good line, but closer to HVS. The route to its left actually is HVS, albeit top-end, with technical climbing at first with a tiny pinch and small footholds - more like 5b - leading to an excellent positive crack and steep but enjoyable climbing up a bulge to finish. Much further right, Captain Percival is a 6a+ right next to the road. Steep moves on good holds lead to an unfortunate grass ledge before a waterworn groove gives good climbing to a wide bridge: then a delicate and technical move on to the face on the right, small holds, up to a bigger flat hold and the finish. We ended the day by failing on the notoriously desperate start of the 6b+ to its right.
Routes: Belay Bunny Bounces Back (f6a+:led), Really Exciting Climb (VS 5a:sec), Vic 20 (HVS 5a:sec), Captain Percival (f6a+:led)
Intermittent visits to the Orme over many years tend to end the same way - tail between the legs, defeated by the steep and sustained nature of the climbing. This was only a partial exception, in the sense that we got four decent routes in before the pump kicked in on a harder route. I am at least now building a reasonable list of routes around the Orme, albeit slowly! I kicked off with the f6a+ that we failed on at the end of a tiring session a couple of years ago. Like all the routes here, it is steep to start, focusing the mind immediately with a series of sustained moves on good holds. Once passed the third bolt, it eases slightly but is sustained up to here. It is pumpy, though, deceptively steep as ever on this crag, and I weighted the fourth bolt briefly even though this is after the crux. Above, it eases but remains thought-provoking. The VS to its right is a bit of a sandbag, steep moves to a polished crack which gives nice climbing. Good line, but closer to HVS. The route to its left actually is HVS, albeit top-end, with technical climbing at first with a tiny pinch and small footholds - more like 5b - leading to an excellent positive crack and steep but enjoyable climbing up a bulge to finish. Much further right, Captain Percival is a 6a+ right next to the road. Steep moves on good holds lead to an unfortunate grass ledge before a waterworn groove gives good climbing to a wide bridge: then a delicate and technical move on to the face on the right, small holds, up to a bigger flat hold and the finish. We ended the day by failing on the notoriously desperate start of the 6b+ to its right.
Saturday, July 01, 2017
Dyserth climbing
Crag: Dyserth waterfall crag
Routes: Magnificent Rita (f5:sec), Men of Dinorwic Slate (f5:led), Rhubarb Wall (f6a+:sec), Diamonds and Pearls (f5:led), Suleiman the Insignificant (f5:sec), Custard Corner (f5:sec), Windsor Wall (f6b:sec)
A short afternoon trip, with just a couple of hours spare. All routes were repeats, as I had swept the crag on a winter's day a few years ago. It may not be the greatest venue, but it is pleasant enough right next to the stream through this sylvan valley, and very convenient for a short visit. The longer corner taken by 'Dinorwic' is steep, juggy and interesting, and I bouldered out the top of Rhubarb Wall while I was here (the best route on this part of the crag, in a good position above the overhangs). Custard Corner seemed much better than last time: good, powerful laybacking up an obvious corner with crystals for the feet, and the 6b eliminate 'Windsor Wall' is also entertaining and good for finger strength. One of the most public places I have ever climbed, with dozens of visitors from nearby holiday resorts wandering past and stopping to ask questions!
Routes: Magnificent Rita (f5:sec), Men of Dinorwic Slate (f5:led), Rhubarb Wall (f6a+:sec), Diamonds and Pearls (f5:led), Suleiman the Insignificant (f5:sec), Custard Corner (f5:sec), Windsor Wall (f6b:sec)
A short afternoon trip, with just a couple of hours spare. All routes were repeats, as I had swept the crag on a winter's day a few years ago. It may not be the greatest venue, but it is pleasant enough right next to the stream through this sylvan valley, and very convenient for a short visit. The longer corner taken by 'Dinorwic' is steep, juggy and interesting, and I bouldered out the top of Rhubarb Wall while I was here (the best route on this part of the crag, in a good position above the overhangs). Custard Corner seemed much better than last time: good, powerful laybacking up an obvious corner with crystals for the feet, and the 6b eliminate 'Windsor Wall' is also entertaining and good for finger strength. One of the most public places I have ever climbed, with dozens of visitors from nearby holiday resorts wandering past and stopping to ask questions!
Tuesday, June 27, 2017
Deeside track mile
Race: Deeside Track Mile (One mile)
Time/Position: 5.05.6 (5th from 35)
Track events are the obvious thing missing from my 'running CV'. Not surprisingly, age is a bit of a barrier to speed, and 47 is hardly the perfect age for this distance, although I suspect I wouldn't have had much raw speed even if I had taken it seriously in my early 20s. I ran a 9.49 3k on the track a few years ago, and have trained a few times at the Deeside track, but this was my first ever formal measured track mile. The pace was obviously hard from the off, but I held back a bit, unable to go with the pace of this first heat. By the second lap I managed to catch up a bit with my usual 'one pace' approach, tucked in behind Dave and Chris, then pushed as hard as I could on the last lap, narrowly failing to break 5 minutes. I will try a few more 1500m/mile races on the track this summer, if possible, before switching to the entirely contrasting (but also largely missing from my experience) ultras next year.
Time/Position: 5.05.6 (5th from 35)
Track events are the obvious thing missing from my 'running CV'. Not surprisingly, age is a bit of a barrier to speed, and 47 is hardly the perfect age for this distance, although I suspect I wouldn't have had much raw speed even if I had taken it seriously in my early 20s. I ran a 9.49 3k on the track a few years ago, and have trained a few times at the Deeside track, but this was my first ever formal measured track mile. The pace was obviously hard from the off, but I held back a bit, unable to go with the pace of this first heat. By the second lap I managed to catch up a bit with my usual 'one pace' approach, tucked in behind Dave and Chris, then pushed as hard as I could on the last lap, narrowly failing to break 5 minutes. I will try a few more 1500m/mile races on the track this summer, if possible, before switching to the entirely contrasting (but also largely missing from my experience) ultras next year.
Monday, June 26, 2017
Dinbren climbing
Crag: Dinbren, Eglwyseg
Routes: Sally in Pink (VS 4b:led), Astrola (VS 4b:sec), The Phoenix (S 4a:led), Nit Nurse (E1 5b:sec), Tower of Babel (VS 5a:sec), Babbling Arete variant (S 4a:led), Babel Face (HVS 5a:sec)
Although I rarely bother with trad limestone these days, this is a crag I have visited often in the past: I've been coming here for more than a quarter of a century. It has a lovely outlook over Dinas Bran towards Arenig, and the climbs are reasonably good. Sally in Pink is probably the route I've done most often in the entire valley: a nice, clean-cut groove and a strong line. It's not too polished, and the 'wobbly block' at half height is still there 26 years after I first put a sling round it! The dead yew tree is still there too. Vic then led the polished Astrola, before I nipped up The Phoenix, which again has a tree to negotiate but is a pleasant climb up a corner groove: couldn't remember bothering with it before. We took the opportunity to nip up Nit Nurse, a spicy E1 to the left. Nip being the operative word, as a technical wall of fine limestone leads to a steep, very powerful move over the threadable bulge to a juggy upper wall. Quite high in the grade, and a good, though short, route. The VS up the first 'tower' struck us as a tad overgraded, although the HVS led by Vic to its right is tricky - on rather fragile and snappy rock. Not well travelled, which is not surprising. I led up Babbling Tower, forgetting that the arete gives the better route, so switched to it half way up.
Routes: Sally in Pink (VS 4b:led), Astrola (VS 4b:sec), The Phoenix (S 4a:led), Nit Nurse (E1 5b:sec), Tower of Babel (VS 5a:sec), Babbling Arete variant (S 4a:led), Babel Face (HVS 5a:sec)
Although I rarely bother with trad limestone these days, this is a crag I have visited often in the past: I've been coming here for more than a quarter of a century. It has a lovely outlook over Dinas Bran towards Arenig, and the climbs are reasonably good. Sally in Pink is probably the route I've done most often in the entire valley: a nice, clean-cut groove and a strong line. It's not too polished, and the 'wobbly block' at half height is still there 26 years after I first put a sling round it! The dead yew tree is still there too. Vic then led the polished Astrola, before I nipped up The Phoenix, which again has a tree to negotiate but is a pleasant climb up a corner groove: couldn't remember bothering with it before. We took the opportunity to nip up Nit Nurse, a spicy E1 to the left. Nip being the operative word, as a technical wall of fine limestone leads to a steep, very powerful move over the threadable bulge to a juggy upper wall. Quite high in the grade, and a good, though short, route. The VS up the first 'tower' struck us as a tad overgraded, although the HVS led by Vic to its right is tricky - on rather fragile and snappy rock. Not well travelled, which is not surprising. I led up Babbling Tower, forgetting that the arete gives the better route, so switched to it half way up.
Saturday, June 24, 2017
Ras Moel Hebog
Race: Moel Hebog fell race (4.2m/2460ft)
Time/Position: 62.24 (14th from 63)
This Welsh Championship race was always likely to be a struggle, as the third race in four days, but it was rendered particularly draining given the flat-out nature of last night's Tattenhall team race. Having said that, it's the third time I've done this classic race, and it is probably the best kind of race to do in these less-than-ideal circumstances, with a steep 'walk' up and a descent that really depends on your willingness to risk a sprained ankle (or worse) on the loose rocks and scree that make up much of the upper part of Hebog. The weather was dank and humid with a cloud base around 1500ft, and the course has changed to take in an initial loop through the centre of Beddgelert first. Predictably, I was very slow on the climb and very relieved to be able to use my arms as we got to the rocky sections at the top. Some wind for the short summit ridge, then the usual awkward and hazardous descent, particularly tricky in the wet. Shifting scree, large boulders, trying to stick to the grass where possible. Given the circumstances, I had a reasonable descent and passed three runners, although Andy charged past just before we regained the path. I summonsed a bit more energy for the fast and flat run back to the hotel. Well outside my previous times for the race, but that is partly due to the longer course. An ideal family day out, as with Ras y Gader, and we all had a nice village walk and picnic to follow.
Time/Position: 62.24 (14th from 63)
This Welsh Championship race was always likely to be a struggle, as the third race in four days, but it was rendered particularly draining given the flat-out nature of last night's Tattenhall team race. Having said that, it's the third time I've done this classic race, and it is probably the best kind of race to do in these less-than-ideal circumstances, with a steep 'walk' up and a descent that really depends on your willingness to risk a sprained ankle (or worse) on the loose rocks and scree that make up much of the upper part of Hebog. The weather was dank and humid with a cloud base around 1500ft, and the course has changed to take in an initial loop through the centre of Beddgelert first. Predictably, I was very slow on the climb and very relieved to be able to use my arms as we got to the rocky sections at the top. Some wind for the short summit ridge, then the usual awkward and hazardous descent, particularly tricky in the wet. Shifting scree, large boulders, trying to stick to the grass where possible. Given the circumstances, I had a reasonable descent and passed three runners, although Andy charged past just before we regained the path. I summonsed a bit more energy for the fast and flat run back to the hotel. Well outside my previous times for the race, but that is partly due to the longer course. An ideal family day out, as with Ras y Gader, and we all had a nice village walk and picnic to follow.
Friday, June 23, 2017
Tattenhall Tough Team
Race: Tattenhall Tough Team (9m+)
Time/Position: 61.41 (6th from 197 [2nd team from 66])
Fourth time at this great event, but the first time I've ever done it properly as a team: much better, good fun and camaraderie, with a tactical element. Previously, I have always been middle man, isolated between Jez and either Eric or Steve. This time, Chris and Dave were my team-mates, which Chris has long suggested would make an ideal team. He was absolutely right, it worked really well - I tried to make up for the age gap (I was the oldest by some margin!) by keeping the pace steady, which is what I'd been employed to do. We stuck together for the first long road section, in the lead at this point, then teams from Helsby and Wallasey started to pull clear as we entered the long off-road section through the Peckforton Hills. We moved into second place, and held this on the infamous and outrageously steep railway, although could never quite catch the Helsby team. Chris slipped behind slightly, but by the time we reached the flatter fields we were all together again, which was brilliant as this is the most enjoyable section of the race with views out to the Cheshire plain. On the long road run in, we could see Helsby in front of us, tantalisingly close, but they had around a minute on Chris and I by the finish back in Tattenhall. Dave slipped a few seconds behind, but we were comfortably established in second place by then (the same position as myself, Jez and Eric finished in last year). Good fun, but then it was time for every recovery technique I could muster before tomorrow's important Moel Hebog race.
Time/Position: 61.41 (6th from 197 [2nd team from 66])
Fourth time at this great event, but the first time I've ever done it properly as a team: much better, good fun and camaraderie, with a tactical element. Previously, I have always been middle man, isolated between Jez and either Eric or Steve. This time, Chris and Dave were my team-mates, which Chris has long suggested would make an ideal team. He was absolutely right, it worked really well - I tried to make up for the age gap (I was the oldest by some margin!) by keeping the pace steady, which is what I'd been employed to do. We stuck together for the first long road section, in the lead at this point, then teams from Helsby and Wallasey started to pull clear as we entered the long off-road section through the Peckforton Hills. We moved into second place, and held this on the infamous and outrageously steep railway, although could never quite catch the Helsby team. Chris slipped behind slightly, but by the time we reached the flatter fields we were all together again, which was brilliant as this is the most enjoyable section of the race with views out to the Cheshire plain. On the long road run in, we could see Helsby in front of us, tantalisingly close, but they had around a minute on Chris and I by the finish back in Tattenhall. Dave slipped a few seconds behind, but we were comfortably established in second place by then (the same position as myself, Jez and Eric finished in last year). Good fun, but then it was time for every recovery technique I could muster before tomorrow's important Moel Hebog race.
Wednesday, June 21, 2017
Up the Beast fell race
Race: Up the Beast fell race (7.5k/2000ft)
Time/Position: 42.08 (8th from 79 [2nd V40])
Tired after a day climbing on the slate, I didn't really feel up to this as I arrived with just a few minutes to spare. But it is probably the only race that I have done every year since it started, perhaps 10 consecutive editions, so I felt obliged to continue the tradition! Unsurprisingly, my time was a couple of minutes down on last year, and even further down on my best times a few years ago, but I didn't feel too bad and ran a reasonably good tactical race. It is always a hot and humid race, particularly the airless second climb back to Bryn Alyn, but this year took the biscuit: pouring with sweat throughout the race. I gradually worked my way through the field and just about managed to keep it going for the 'new' finishing route through the Maeshafn woods.
Time/Position: 42.08 (8th from 79 [2nd V40])
Tired after a day climbing on the slate, I didn't really feel up to this as I arrived with just a few minutes to spare. But it is probably the only race that I have done every year since it started, perhaps 10 consecutive editions, so I felt obliged to continue the tradition! Unsurprisingly, my time was a couple of minutes down on last year, and even further down on my best times a few years ago, but I didn't feel too bad and ran a reasonably good tactical race. It is always a hot and humid race, particularly the airless second climb back to Bryn Alyn, but this year took the biscuit: pouring with sweat throughout the race. I gradually worked my way through the field and just about managed to keep it going for the 'new' finishing route through the Maeshafn woods.
Llanberis Slate Climbing
Crag: Llanberis Slate (California, Serengeti, Never Never Land)
Routes: We No Speak Americano (f6a:led), A Pair of Six (E2:sec), Serengeti Express (f3:sec), Peter Pan (f6a+:led), Sans Chisel Variation (f6b:sec), Hawkeye (f5:sec), Macsen (f5+:led), Fresh Air (f5+:sec)
Not the day we had planned, but it was the only option when Vic realised he'd forgotten the wires as we started to gear up at the base of Craig Ddu. A very hot and humid day in a dry week, hence our choice of that normally wet and forbidding crag, but the lack of gear forced our hand: slate was the only option. As it happened, it was an excellent one, and I suggested a 'touring' approach, which works really well and adds an extra exploratory dimension to the quarries. We walked past the now-banned Dali's Hole, getting great views down to the pool from the contouring path which leads to the tunnel through to California. I got the wrong tunnel initially, but then you emerge at the dripping wet initial pit, followed by another tunnel to the atmospheric upper level of California, a huge bowl of slate: massive boulders and big walls all around. Our route was, in contrast to all that seriousness, an amenable f6a, albeit in a sombre atmosphere far removed from the usual sports clip-ups. I led up a shallow groove, steepish but on excellent holds to a belay ledge. An easy aperitif, and it seemed logical to continue up the harder second 'pitch', which has some thought-provoking moves up a series of fairly steep bulges. One of these contained a wasp's nest - which meant an interesting 'mounting' of a sharp bulging arete trying to avoid it. The pitch was a good 30m long, absorbing and surprisingly good, in atmospheric surroundings: well worth the effort, all clean and on-sight. We took the opportunity to second A Pair of Six, less amenably bolted, but similar in standard: hard moves above the ledge, after which we lowered off for a delayed lunch. The mild adventure then continued, up the sliding scree to the top of the California bowl, then across a verdant area being reclaimed by birches and rich vegetation, up steps to rope up for the mini 'climb' up a stepped groove (Serengeti Express) which leads to a small plateau overlooking California. From here, a tunnel brings you out above the Serengeti level and big views across to Nant Peris and Yr Wyddfa. Some intermittent rainfall, but it was so hot that the slate was drying almost immediately. Because we were limited to sports routes, I decided to go for Peter Pan, an eye-catching and photogenic line I have looked at before. It is an unusual route, which takes a slanting and steep seam with all the bolts on the smooth wall to the right. All quite steep and slightly off-balance, but good holds all the way to the mildly famous crux at the top. This involves a hidden hold. Not sure if I found it, but my solution was to lay away off a sidepull before a very long reach for a long, flat hold and a powerful move to the top. A satisfying route to do clean and onsight. We nipped up the 6b further right, deciding to pass on the desperate-looking Nick the Chisel at 7b! The 6b takes a series of small ledges up to good moves on small pockets to gain easier flakes. On the way back to the car, we stopped at the edge of Never Never Land to do a few more routes: I seconded Vic up Hawkeye, which I've done before, then led Macsen in the rain up sharp flakes and a short corner. As is often the case here, this is absurdly overgraded and would probably be f4 in Provence. Fresh Air is always a nice way to finish: then it was a jog back to the car and a long journey to the start of the Beast race in Maeshafn, and part two of the day.
Routes: We No Speak Americano (f6a:led), A Pair of Six (E2:sec), Serengeti Express (f3:sec), Peter Pan (f6a+:led), Sans Chisel Variation (f6b:sec), Hawkeye (f5:sec), Macsen (f5+:led), Fresh Air (f5+:sec)
Not the day we had planned, but it was the only option when Vic realised he'd forgotten the wires as we started to gear up at the base of Craig Ddu. A very hot and humid day in a dry week, hence our choice of that normally wet and forbidding crag, but the lack of gear forced our hand: slate was the only option. As it happened, it was an excellent one, and I suggested a 'touring' approach, which works really well and adds an extra exploratory dimension to the quarries. We walked past the now-banned Dali's Hole, getting great views down to the pool from the contouring path which leads to the tunnel through to California. I got the wrong tunnel initially, but then you emerge at the dripping wet initial pit, followed by another tunnel to the atmospheric upper level of California, a huge bowl of slate: massive boulders and big walls all around. Our route was, in contrast to all that seriousness, an amenable f6a, albeit in a sombre atmosphere far removed from the usual sports clip-ups. I led up a shallow groove, steepish but on excellent holds to a belay ledge. An easy aperitif, and it seemed logical to continue up the harder second 'pitch', which has some thought-provoking moves up a series of fairly steep bulges. One of these contained a wasp's nest - which meant an interesting 'mounting' of a sharp bulging arete trying to avoid it. The pitch was a good 30m long, absorbing and surprisingly good, in atmospheric surroundings: well worth the effort, all clean and on-sight. We took the opportunity to second A Pair of Six, less amenably bolted, but similar in standard: hard moves above the ledge, after which we lowered off for a delayed lunch. The mild adventure then continued, up the sliding scree to the top of the California bowl, then across a verdant area being reclaimed by birches and rich vegetation, up steps to rope up for the mini 'climb' up a stepped groove (Serengeti Express) which leads to a small plateau overlooking California. From here, a tunnel brings you out above the Serengeti level and big views across to Nant Peris and Yr Wyddfa. Some intermittent rainfall, but it was so hot that the slate was drying almost immediately. Because we were limited to sports routes, I decided to go for Peter Pan, an eye-catching and photogenic line I have looked at before. It is an unusual route, which takes a slanting and steep seam with all the bolts on the smooth wall to the right. All quite steep and slightly off-balance, but good holds all the way to the mildly famous crux at the top. This involves a hidden hold. Not sure if I found it, but my solution was to lay away off a sidepull before a very long reach for a long, flat hold and a powerful move to the top. A satisfying route to do clean and onsight. We nipped up the 6b further right, deciding to pass on the desperate-looking Nick the Chisel at 7b! The 6b takes a series of small ledges up to good moves on small pockets to gain easier flakes. On the way back to the car, we stopped at the edge of Never Never Land to do a few more routes: I seconded Vic up Hawkeye, which I've done before, then led Macsen in the rain up sharp flakes and a short corner. As is often the case here, this is absurdly overgraded and would probably be f4 in Provence. Fresh Air is always a nice way to finish: then it was a jog back to the car and a long journey to the start of the Beast race in Maeshafn, and part two of the day.
Monday, June 19, 2017
Idwal climbs
Crag: Idwal Quarry (Ogwen)
Routes: Toasted Teacake Crack (VD:sol/sh), Toasted Teacake Slab (VD:sol/sh)
After breakfast, it was still only 6am, so I did a couple of short routes in the scruffy little gorge near Ogwen cottage. Pleasant, with the sunshine lighting the top half of the slab. Several variations on the slab to the right of the crack, trying to avoid the jugs. A bit of bouldering on the nearby Idwal Cottage Crag, including the three V1s, and it was time to drive to work.
Routes: Toasted Teacake Crack (VD:sol/sh), Toasted Teacake Slab (VD:sol/sh)
After breakfast, it was still only 6am, so I did a couple of short routes in the scruffy little gorge near Ogwen cottage. Pleasant, with the sunshine lighting the top half of the slab. Several variations on the slab to the right of the crack, trying to avoid the jugs. A bit of bouldering on the nearby Idwal Cottage Crag, including the three V1s, and it was time to drive to work.
Foel Goch
Peaks: Foel Goch/Nameless Peak
Area: Glyderau, Eryri
Having watched the sun setting at 10pm last night, I thought it would be nice to see it rise. This, for me, is the key to a good midsummer camp: uninterrupted views to the east and west. To combine that with a bit of shelter from the wind, and proximal running water, is unusual - which is why this site has been on my mind for some time. It was a very peaceful night, with light breezes gently rustling the tent and only the distant trickle of a stream. I was woken by a very early skylark, a delightful way to rise, so had a cup of coffee in my sleeping bag before running to the nearby summit of Foel Goch to watch the sun rise, dark red, above Llyn Cowlyd and Pen Llithrig y Wrach: memorable, and still well before 5am. Amazing clarity of light for distant views over the Irish Sea and Lancashire coast. I jogged down and sat on a natural rock chair to watch the early sun illuminate the east face of Tryfan as a raven cronked, as if greeting the first rays. After packing up, I ran straight down Bwlch Tryfan and Ogwen back to the car, where I had some porridge before doing a couple of climbs.
Area: Glyderau, Eryri
Having watched the sun setting at 10pm last night, I thought it would be nice to see it rise. This, for me, is the key to a good midsummer camp: uninterrupted views to the east and west. To combine that with a bit of shelter from the wind, and proximal running water, is unusual - which is why this site has been on my mind for some time. It was a very peaceful night, with light breezes gently rustling the tent and only the distant trickle of a stream. I was woken by a very early skylark, a delightful way to rise, so had a cup of coffee in my sleeping bag before running to the nearby summit of Foel Goch to watch the sun rise, dark red, above Llyn Cowlyd and Pen Llithrig y Wrach: memorable, and still well before 5am. Amazing clarity of light for distant views over the Irish Sea and Lancashire coast. I jogged down and sat on a natural rock chair to watch the early sun illuminate the east face of Tryfan as a raven cronked, as if greeting the first rays. After packing up, I ran straight down Bwlch Tryfan and Ogwen back to the car, where I had some porridge before doing a couple of climbs.
Sunday, June 18, 2017
Glyderau scramble and wildcamp
Peaks: Tryfan
Routes: Y Gully (M:sol), Noodle Groove (D:sol)
Area: Glyderau, Eryri
A magical overnight trip in perfect conditions, started late on a Sunday afternoon with all of Ogwen to myself. After a father's day lunch, I didn't set off until almost 5pm, heading straight up towards the upper end of the West Face of Tryfan with temperatures in the high 20s and not a cloud in the sky. I am gradually ticking off the routes on the West Face, none of which will ever be popular, but by judicious combinations the scrambling is almost as continuous as it is on the vastly more popular East. I'm not sure I'd ever bother coming here with a partner, but on a solo day its relaxed and exploratory vibe is perfect. I had full overnight kit, tent and stove, so needed to select my route carefully: I went for Y Gully, a very obvious line visible from most of Ogwen. The long and gentle stream bed/shallow gully leads directly into this line, which is characterised by three large chockstones. These look innocuous from below, but are slightly problematic, and the route is far better and more enjoyable than I'd expected. Good scrambling up clean rock leads to a runnel leading left over the second chockstone, then excellent and surprisingly steep rock, festooned with jugs, on the left of the third obstacle leads to a clean rib. I picked my way satisfyingly up the rest of the face to the North Tower, taking a line parallel to Notch Arete (another fine mountaineering route, done with John B a few years ago). By weaving around, this is rock the whole way up. Wonderful views from a deserted Tryfan summit: the clarity of light was, if anything, even better than from Arenig Fawr yesterday. I jogged down the South Ridge to Bwlch Tryfan, then along the contouring line which I'd used to good effect on the Rab Mountain Marathon, to reach my chosen campsite by Llyn Caseg Fraith. I have had this filed away for years as an ideal camping location, and it was nice to finally sample it: a superb spot and a truly magical campsite in this weather. Virtually no wind, cloudless skies, and as near to the midsummer solstice as to make no difference. The only real issue is that it is a rather boggy area, but I pitched on a raised platform - completely dry - then had a pleasant evening meal before doing some bouldering on the obvious juggy crag below the lake on the Ogwen side, complete with a perfect 'Diff' groove up the centre (which I christened Noodle Groove - because that's what I'd just eaten). A wonderful few hours passed, as the light changed constantly and the sun dropped between Tryfan and Bristly Ridge, just as I had hoped it would. Nobody was around, just the odd skylark and raven for company. After the sun dropped, the sky turned purple and, eventually, I turned in to read the 'review'.
Routes: Y Gully (M:sol), Noodle Groove (D:sol)
Area: Glyderau, Eryri
A magical overnight trip in perfect conditions, started late on a Sunday afternoon with all of Ogwen to myself. After a father's day lunch, I didn't set off until almost 5pm, heading straight up towards the upper end of the West Face of Tryfan with temperatures in the high 20s and not a cloud in the sky. I am gradually ticking off the routes on the West Face, none of which will ever be popular, but by judicious combinations the scrambling is almost as continuous as it is on the vastly more popular East. I'm not sure I'd ever bother coming here with a partner, but on a solo day its relaxed and exploratory vibe is perfect. I had full overnight kit, tent and stove, so needed to select my route carefully: I went for Y Gully, a very obvious line visible from most of Ogwen. The long and gentle stream bed/shallow gully leads directly into this line, which is characterised by three large chockstones. These look innocuous from below, but are slightly problematic, and the route is far better and more enjoyable than I'd expected. Good scrambling up clean rock leads to a runnel leading left over the second chockstone, then excellent and surprisingly steep rock, festooned with jugs, on the left of the third obstacle leads to a clean rib. I picked my way satisfyingly up the rest of the face to the North Tower, taking a line parallel to Notch Arete (another fine mountaineering route, done with John B a few years ago). By weaving around, this is rock the whole way up. Wonderful views from a deserted Tryfan summit: the clarity of light was, if anything, even better than from Arenig Fawr yesterday. I jogged down the South Ridge to Bwlch Tryfan, then along the contouring line which I'd used to good effect on the Rab Mountain Marathon, to reach my chosen campsite by Llyn Caseg Fraith. I have had this filed away for years as an ideal camping location, and it was nice to finally sample it: a superb spot and a truly magical campsite in this weather. Virtually no wind, cloudless skies, and as near to the midsummer solstice as to make no difference. The only real issue is that it is a rather boggy area, but I pitched on a raised platform - completely dry - then had a pleasant evening meal before doing some bouldering on the obvious juggy crag below the lake on the Ogwen side, complete with a perfect 'Diff' groove up the centre (which I christened Noodle Groove - because that's what I'd just eaten). A wonderful few hours passed, as the light changed constantly and the sun dropped between Tryfan and Bristly Ridge, just as I had hoped it would. Nobody was around, just the odd skylark and raven for company. After the sun dropped, the sky turned purple and, eventually, I turned in to read the 'review'.
Saturday, June 17, 2017
Arenig walk
Peaks: Arenig Fawr
Area: Arenig, Eryri
The first time for many years that Kate and I have been hillwalking as a couple. As such, it felt like the bittersweet beginning of a new era (although perhaps the children will finally come round to it one day!). After this morning's Parkrun, the day developed into a glorious midsummer afternoon. We headed up the track via Llyn Arenig Fawr, the bothy and the ridge, with a perfect cooling breeze to keep it comfortable. Superb clarity of light, with views to Cader Idris and Plynlimon, as well as Central Snowdonia, from the summit. After a relaxed lunch on the top, we headed down the fence line to the quarry but skirted the steep gully after both Kate's soles came off her boots (an indication of the length of the hillwalking gap!). I ran back to collect the car.
Area: Arenig, Eryri
The first time for many years that Kate and I have been hillwalking as a couple. As such, it felt like the bittersweet beginning of a new era (although perhaps the children will finally come round to it one day!). After this morning's Parkrun, the day developed into a glorious midsummer afternoon. We headed up the track via Llyn Arenig Fawr, the bothy and the ridge, with a perfect cooling breeze to keep it comfortable. Superb clarity of light, with views to Cader Idris and Plynlimon, as well as Central Snowdonia, from the summit. After a relaxed lunch on the top, we headed down the fence line to the quarry but skirted the steep gully after both Kate's soles came off her boots (an indication of the length of the hillwalking gap!). I ran back to collect the car.
Chester Parkrun
"Race": Chester Parkrun (5k)
Time/Position: 17.58 (2nd from 247 [1st V45])
The ultimate contrast with Ennerdale this time last week. The hottest day of the year and a flat, fast 5k. I haven't done any speedwork for several months, so expected to struggle, and did. The heat didn't help much, but at least the suffering is short lived and it is, after all, only a 'timed run'! My last Parkrun here was in torrential rain on April Fool's day, and the elements were against us again today but in a very different way: the heat was already building - well into the mid 20s - as we set off as usual at 9am. Elliot from Buckley took the lead, and I tried to stay with him as long as I could. He finished a few seconds ahead, and I struggled a bit over the cross-country section on the second lap. A valuable speed session, however, and a Parkrun PB (by 3 seconds) for me: although still over a minute slower than my 5k PB!
Time/Position: 17.58 (2nd from 247 [1st V45])
The ultimate contrast with Ennerdale this time last week. The hottest day of the year and a flat, fast 5k. I haven't done any speedwork for several months, so expected to struggle, and did. The heat didn't help much, but at least the suffering is short lived and it is, after all, only a 'timed run'! My last Parkrun here was in torrential rain on April Fool's day, and the elements were against us again today but in a very different way: the heat was already building - well into the mid 20s - as we set off as usual at 9am. Elliot from Buckley took the lead, and I tried to stay with him as long as I could. He finished a few seconds ahead, and I struggled a bit over the cross-country section on the second lap. A valuable speed session, however, and a Parkrun PB (by 3 seconds) for me: although still over a minute slower than my 5k PB!
Saturday, June 10, 2017
Ennerdale Horseshoe
Race: Ennerdale Horseshoe fell race (37k/8000ft/AL)
Time/Position: 6.13 (27th from 50)
Peaks: Great Borne (616m), Red Pike (755m), Green Gable (801m), Kirk Fell (802m), Pillar (892m), Scoat Fell (802m), Haycock (797m), Caw Fell (690m), Iron Crag (640m), Crag Fell (523m)
Almost a carbon copy of last year's Wasdale Horseshoe, in that we arrived in calm conditions on Friday afternoon, awaiting an accurately forecast unseasonal depression that arrived in good time for the notoriously arduous race. As a result, the event just became a survival mode plod, one of many I have participated in over many years (I don't really feel an urgent need to add more to the list!). This always makes for a memorable and enjoyable experience, and it was particularly so this year as all four of us did the majority of the horseshoe together and crossed the finish line at the same time. Waves lapped the shores of Ennerdale as we set off in high winds and driving rain. The initial climb up Herdus steepens continually and is very sharp at the top: from here, easier ground leads to the rockier summit of Great Borne, by now completely exposed to the full force of the wind. This remained an arduous headwind most of the way up Red Pike. I knew the rest of this ridge to an extent, but always lack the in-depth knowledge I have in Snowdonia. Indeed, I lost my nerve when following the racing line below High Stile on the Ennerdale side in thick mist, driving rain and a headwind, and myself and Jez climbed back onto the ridge through tricky scree: we did skirt the summits successfully though, avoiding both High Stile and High Crag to emerge on the scree run leading down to Scarth Gap along paths that were now torrents of running water. Despite missing the summits, and getting a good skirting line round the confusing and lumpy terrain of Haystacks, we still lost time over this section. From Scarth Gap, contouring leads to a steep climb up a fence line to emerge at Innominate Tarn - bleak rather than scenic in this weather - then down across a deep river crossing to the Blackbeck Tarn checkpoint. I was last here during the Rab in 2014, shirt off in glorious September sunshine! The next leg, to Green Gable, struck me as being the trickiest navigation on the route, so it was quite pleasing to get it more or less bang on. We caught up with Andy and Hayley (they had taken a better line over High Stile) then contoured round below some crags to pick up Moses Trod and hit the col below Green Gable without losing or gaining any height (I now had map and compass out the whole time). The weather remained appalling, but I had a bite to eat and began to feel more optimistic about our prospects as we descended from Green Gable and went our separate ways again. Jez and I dropped down to Windy Gap and traversed Great Gable to the north before taking a very direct (probably too direct) line right up the front of Kirk Fell. This was too far north up very steep mobile scree and small crags but still brought us out at the plateau and double summit of Kirk Fell - rather confusing in the mist (and possibly only the second time I've ever been up Kirk Fell) although the rain was at last beginning to get slightly lighter. The wind was at its worst, however, almost identical to the Wasdale race last year as we descended the very steep and rocky north-west ridge to Black Sail Pass. Wet rock and high winds made this tricky and demanded care. The climb up Pillar from here is very long, but was quite enjoyable, and not too windy until we approached the summit. We had gathered a few more runners around us, depending and Andy and I for the navigation for one last tricky section south-west from Pillar to Wind Gap then, staying cautious over the summit of Scoat Fell to finally pick up the wall leading to Haycock. Finally, it was possible to relax a bit although the run-in is very long, over Haycock, Caw Fell and Iron Crag: still misty, although the rain was beginning to ease and the terrain is kind underfoot, grassy, and this is the real difference with Wasdale, which obviously climaxes on Scafell Pike. So, although Ennerdale is longer, indeed the longest traditional fell race in the UK, it is probably true to say that it is a tad easier than Wasdale. The forest below the final low summit, Crag Fell, has now been cleared so the ascent route was a tad confusing initially: we took the obvious small path and dibbed the final checkpoint before the final, indirect descent back to the Scout Hut. The weather, ironically enough, began to clear (although we were much lower by now) and we finally got a view of Ennerdale! A series of waterfalls led to a section through conifers, then a meeting with Jos Naylor, before the final run to the finish line, which we crossed together. Lots of drop-outs and non-starters: another memorable outing.
Time/Position: 6.13 (27th from 50)
Peaks: Great Borne (616m), Red Pike (755m), Green Gable (801m), Kirk Fell (802m), Pillar (892m), Scoat Fell (802m), Haycock (797m), Caw Fell (690m), Iron Crag (640m), Crag Fell (523m)
Almost a carbon copy of last year's Wasdale Horseshoe, in that we arrived in calm conditions on Friday afternoon, awaiting an accurately forecast unseasonal depression that arrived in good time for the notoriously arduous race. As a result, the event just became a survival mode plod, one of many I have participated in over many years (I don't really feel an urgent need to add more to the list!). This always makes for a memorable and enjoyable experience, and it was particularly so this year as all four of us did the majority of the horseshoe together and crossed the finish line at the same time. Waves lapped the shores of Ennerdale as we set off in high winds and driving rain. The initial climb up Herdus steepens continually and is very sharp at the top: from here, easier ground leads to the rockier summit of Great Borne, by now completely exposed to the full force of the wind. This remained an arduous headwind most of the way up Red Pike. I knew the rest of this ridge to an extent, but always lack the in-depth knowledge I have in Snowdonia. Indeed, I lost my nerve when following the racing line below High Stile on the Ennerdale side in thick mist, driving rain and a headwind, and myself and Jez climbed back onto the ridge through tricky scree: we did skirt the summits successfully though, avoiding both High Stile and High Crag to emerge on the scree run leading down to Scarth Gap along paths that were now torrents of running water. Despite missing the summits, and getting a good skirting line round the confusing and lumpy terrain of Haystacks, we still lost time over this section. From Scarth Gap, contouring leads to a steep climb up a fence line to emerge at Innominate Tarn - bleak rather than scenic in this weather - then down across a deep river crossing to the Blackbeck Tarn checkpoint. I was last here during the Rab in 2014, shirt off in glorious September sunshine! The next leg, to Green Gable, struck me as being the trickiest navigation on the route, so it was quite pleasing to get it more or less bang on. We caught up with Andy and Hayley (they had taken a better line over High Stile) then contoured round below some crags to pick up Moses Trod and hit the col below Green Gable without losing or gaining any height (I now had map and compass out the whole time). The weather remained appalling, but I had a bite to eat and began to feel more optimistic about our prospects as we descended from Green Gable and went our separate ways again. Jez and I dropped down to Windy Gap and traversed Great Gable to the north before taking a very direct (probably too direct) line right up the front of Kirk Fell. This was too far north up very steep mobile scree and small crags but still brought us out at the plateau and double summit of Kirk Fell - rather confusing in the mist (and possibly only the second time I've ever been up Kirk Fell) although the rain was at last beginning to get slightly lighter. The wind was at its worst, however, almost identical to the Wasdale race last year as we descended the very steep and rocky north-west ridge to Black Sail Pass. Wet rock and high winds made this tricky and demanded care. The climb up Pillar from here is very long, but was quite enjoyable, and not too windy until we approached the summit. We had gathered a few more runners around us, depending and Andy and I for the navigation for one last tricky section south-west from Pillar to Wind Gap then, staying cautious over the summit of Scoat Fell to finally pick up the wall leading to Haycock. Finally, it was possible to relax a bit although the run-in is very long, over Haycock, Caw Fell and Iron Crag: still misty, although the rain was beginning to ease and the terrain is kind underfoot, grassy, and this is the real difference with Wasdale, which obviously climaxes on Scafell Pike. So, although Ennerdale is longer, indeed the longest traditional fell race in the UK, it is probably true to say that it is a tad easier than Wasdale. The forest below the final low summit, Crag Fell, has now been cleared so the ascent route was a tad confusing initially: we took the obvious small path and dibbed the final checkpoint before the final, indirect descent back to the Scout Hut. The weather, ironically enough, began to clear (although we were much lower by now) and we finally got a view of Ennerdale! A series of waterfalls led to a section through conifers, then a meeting with Jos Naylor, before the final run to the finish line, which we crossed together. Lots of drop-outs and non-starters: another memorable outing.
Wednesday, June 07, 2017
Pontesford climbing
Crag: Pontesford Rocks (Shropshire)
Routes: Oak Tree Wall Direct (HVD:led), Finale Groove (VS 4a,4b:sec), The Notch (S:sec), Wall End Climb (VD:led), West Crack (M:solo), Right-Hand Route (VD:led), Awaken (VS 5a:sec), Wall End Slab Direct p.2 (S:led)
With rain scheduled to sweep in from the west, a change to the usual routine was in order: so we headed east, to Shropshire, well away from normal stamping grounds but only an hour's drive for me. I know the Shropshire hills quite well for running, having done most of the classic fell races, but the majority of these are centred on Church Stretton. Pontesford sits above an even more tranquil valley, and is a truly delightful location. The climbing is not the best, perhaps, but the routes are pleasant enough and the aspect is worth the trip on its own. After a lot of recent rain, the valley below Earl's Hill was verdant and the skies were blue and the air crisp, with great clarity for the distant views to the Wrekin, Caer Caradoc and the Stiperstones. I set off up Oak Tree Wall for an aperitif, taking the main sweep of slabby rock (igneous - a rather smooth version of Welsh granite, running to flat holds and generally easy-angled). A tricky start over an overlap led to big flat holds then a rising traverse left to avoid the big ledge and keep the route continuous. We then adopted an interchangeable approach to routes further right. Vic led the first pitch of Finale Groove, which is a one move wonder from an inset slab over an edge to gain a bigger, easy slab. We were both initially baffled by the upper groove, so finished up The Notch, a slight thrutch with an unusual use of the posterior facilitating progress. Back at the bottom of the same slab, I led up Wall End Climb before Vic finished up Finale Groove, coming in from the right this time. A satisfying technical move with careful footwork gains the groove before an easier direct finish. I nipped up West Crack (which we'd descended the scrambling version of) before leading Right-Hand Route. Despite its simplicity, this was the best route on the crag in my view: a good long pitch straight up the cleanest and most attractive part of the face. Never remotely difficult, but a fine consistent route at the grade and very enjoyable. We finished with another one-move wonder further right: a 5a rockover to gain the Wall End Slab again. I finished up the obvious ridge, to complete the three variations possible from the big stance. It started to spit with rain as we descended: unconventional venue choice vindicated.
Routes: Oak Tree Wall Direct (HVD:led), Finale Groove (VS 4a,4b:sec), The Notch (S:sec), Wall End Climb (VD:led), West Crack (M:solo), Right-Hand Route (VD:led), Awaken (VS 5a:sec), Wall End Slab Direct p.2 (S:led)
With rain scheduled to sweep in from the west, a change to the usual routine was in order: so we headed east, to Shropshire, well away from normal stamping grounds but only an hour's drive for me. I know the Shropshire hills quite well for running, having done most of the classic fell races, but the majority of these are centred on Church Stretton. Pontesford sits above an even more tranquil valley, and is a truly delightful location. The climbing is not the best, perhaps, but the routes are pleasant enough and the aspect is worth the trip on its own. After a lot of recent rain, the valley below Earl's Hill was verdant and the skies were blue and the air crisp, with great clarity for the distant views to the Wrekin, Caer Caradoc and the Stiperstones. I set off up Oak Tree Wall for an aperitif, taking the main sweep of slabby rock (igneous - a rather smooth version of Welsh granite, running to flat holds and generally easy-angled). A tricky start over an overlap led to big flat holds then a rising traverse left to avoid the big ledge and keep the route continuous. We then adopted an interchangeable approach to routes further right. Vic led the first pitch of Finale Groove, which is a one move wonder from an inset slab over an edge to gain a bigger, easy slab. We were both initially baffled by the upper groove, so finished up The Notch, a slight thrutch with an unusual use of the posterior facilitating progress. Back at the bottom of the same slab, I led up Wall End Climb before Vic finished up Finale Groove, coming in from the right this time. A satisfying technical move with careful footwork gains the groove before an easier direct finish. I nipped up West Crack (which we'd descended the scrambling version of) before leading Right-Hand Route. Despite its simplicity, this was the best route on the crag in my view: a good long pitch straight up the cleanest and most attractive part of the face. Never remotely difficult, but a fine consistent route at the grade and very enjoyable. We finished with another one-move wonder further right: a 5a rockover to gain the Wall End Slab again. I finished up the obvious ridge, to complete the three variations possible from the big stance. It started to spit with rain as we descended: unconventional venue choice vindicated.
Saturday, June 03, 2017
Monadhliath jog
Peaks: Meall na h-Uinneig (745m)
Area: Monadhliath, Central Highlands
A short jog into the hills above our cottage in Laggan before our journey home. We had all enjoyed numerous walks directly from the cottage door as it was a working Highland farm, and I'd tried to locate an obscure crag (Creagan Solleir) on Thursday. I left at 6am in muted morning light: light blue sky above, and numerous curlews bubbling. Snipe, ring ouzel and peregrine (nesting on Solleir) completed the scene. A short track led to the spur which leads NE to the 'summit' of Meall na h-Uinneig, really just a highpoint on a long broad ridge leading down from the higher Monadhliath peaks.
Area: Monadhliath, Central Highlands
A short jog into the hills above our cottage in Laggan before our journey home. We had all enjoyed numerous walks directly from the cottage door as it was a working Highland farm, and I'd tried to locate an obscure crag (Creagan Solleir) on Thursday. I left at 6am in muted morning light: light blue sky above, and numerous curlews bubbling. Snipe, ring ouzel and peregrine (nesting on Solleir) completed the scene. A short track led to the spur which leads NE to the 'summit' of Meall na h-Uinneig, really just a highpoint on a long broad ridge leading down from the higher Monadhliath peaks.
Friday, June 02, 2017
Kingussie climbing
Crag: Kingussie, Badenoch, Central Highlands
Routes: Little Wall Direct (VD:sol), Finale (VD:sol), Classic Crack (D:sol)
On the way back from a family trip to Loch Garten, I had an hour spare in Kingussie for complex logistical reasons, so jogged up to the crag I'd visited on Tuesday. I did some bouldering and took in a few routes I'd missed last time. The main task was to find the side wall of the lower tier, which contains a classic easy romp up an obvious slabby crack. I eventually found it, nicely positioned above the valley, and scampered up the route: very simple, but delightful, and reminiscent of Ordinary Route on Idwal Slabs. I jogged back to meet K and E, and we enjoyed a pleasant walk round Kingussie's own miniature stream valley, and a walk through the woods, before fish and chips completed another excellent week in the Highlands.
Routes: Little Wall Direct (VD:sol), Finale (VD:sol), Classic Crack (D:sol)
On the way back from a family trip to Loch Garten, I had an hour spare in Kingussie for complex logistical reasons, so jogged up to the crag I'd visited on Tuesday. I did some bouldering and took in a few routes I'd missed last time. The main task was to find the side wall of the lower tier, which contains a classic easy romp up an obvious slabby crack. I eventually found it, nicely positioned above the valley, and scampered up the route: very simple, but delightful, and reminiscent of Ordinary Route on Idwal Slabs. I jogged back to meet K and E, and we enjoyed a pleasant walk round Kingussie's own miniature stream valley, and a walk through the woods, before fish and chips completed another excellent week in the Highlands.
Monadhliath run
Peaks: A'Chailleach (930m), Carn Sgulain (920m)
Area: Monadhliath, Central Highlands
An underrated range of hills that grabbed my attention from the top of Creag Dubh on Monday. Apart from the three Munros, the range is virtually deserted: in fact, it must be the wildest (or least trodden) stretch of land in the UK as it goes on for 30km or more towards Loch Ness. It is featureless beyond these hills above Newtonmore, but they have some unexpected little corners and are well worth exploring. It all made for a great little pre-breakfast run. I parked at the top of Glen Banchor, where we had all enjoyed the climax of the Wildcat trail yesterday. This valley is very beautiful: verdant and tranquil, and a considerable contrast with the wild atmosphere of the Monadhliath mountains immediately west. A good track meant that the running was easy and progress was quick up the obvious valley of the Allt a'Chaorainn. The first peak of A'Chailleach is a notable objective from Newtonmore, and a surprisingly shapely hill at close quarters too. I crossed the river and headed for the very lonely stalker's bothy high on the hillside of An Leitir before continuing to the broad upper ridge. All this was very runnable, still unusually dry underfoot. Unsurprisingly, I had the peak to myself - around 55 minutes from the car - and it seemed I had found a bit of a weather window in the sense that the high Cairngorms were clagged in, as were the other nearby Munros like Creag Meagaidh. But the Monadhliath were essentially clear, with cloud peeling away from Carn Dearg and others. There is a powerful sense of remoteness to this range, which I really liked. I always say I have no interest in Munro-bagging, because too many of them are uninteresting puddings, but I don't think it's fair to put the Monadhliath in this category. I ran north on superb springy turf, really fast, dropping into the hidden valley of the Allt Cull na Chailleach. This is surprisingly steep and tight, and a climb out of the far side leads to the genuinely dull Munro of Carn Sgulain, which really is one of the 'puddings' and almost devoid of distinguishing features. It does, however, allow for views over the real wilderness of the northern Monadhliath, very rarely visited. I dropped back to the valley, several pretty waterfalls and a real sense of discovery, picking my way satisfyingly through the crags to regain the main Chaorainn valley right at the top. A golden eagle spiralled on the thermals above Am Bodach. Fast running led back to the car, and the ten minute drive back to the cottage in time for breakfast and a day at Loch Garten.
Area: Monadhliath, Central Highlands
An underrated range of hills that grabbed my attention from the top of Creag Dubh on Monday. Apart from the three Munros, the range is virtually deserted: in fact, it must be the wildest (or least trodden) stretch of land in the UK as it goes on for 30km or more towards Loch Ness. It is featureless beyond these hills above Newtonmore, but they have some unexpected little corners and are well worth exploring. It all made for a great little pre-breakfast run. I parked at the top of Glen Banchor, where we had all enjoyed the climax of the Wildcat trail yesterday. This valley is very beautiful: verdant and tranquil, and a considerable contrast with the wild atmosphere of the Monadhliath mountains immediately west. A good track meant that the running was easy and progress was quick up the obvious valley of the Allt a'Chaorainn. The first peak of A'Chailleach is a notable objective from Newtonmore, and a surprisingly shapely hill at close quarters too. I crossed the river and headed for the very lonely stalker's bothy high on the hillside of An Leitir before continuing to the broad upper ridge. All this was very runnable, still unusually dry underfoot. Unsurprisingly, I had the peak to myself - around 55 minutes from the car - and it seemed I had found a bit of a weather window in the sense that the high Cairngorms were clagged in, as were the other nearby Munros like Creag Meagaidh. But the Monadhliath were essentially clear, with cloud peeling away from Carn Dearg and others. There is a powerful sense of remoteness to this range, which I really liked. I always say I have no interest in Munro-bagging, because too many of them are uninteresting puddings, but I don't think it's fair to put the Monadhliath in this category. I ran north on superb springy turf, really fast, dropping into the hidden valley of the Allt Cull na Chailleach. This is surprisingly steep and tight, and a climb out of the far side leads to the genuinely dull Munro of Carn Sgulain, which really is one of the 'puddings' and almost devoid of distinguishing features. It does, however, allow for views over the real wilderness of the northern Monadhliath, very rarely visited. I dropped back to the valley, several pretty waterfalls and a real sense of discovery, picking my way satisfyingly through the crags to regain the main Chaorainn valley right at the top. A golden eagle spiralled on the thermals above Am Bodach. Fast running led back to the car, and the ten minute drive back to the cottage in time for breakfast and a day at Loch Garten.
Wednesday, May 31, 2017
Cairngorm traverse
Peaks: Cairn Gorm (1245m), Ben Macdui (1309m), Braeriach (1296m)
Area: Cairngorms, Scotland
Three of the UK's biggest peaks before 11am with the entire range to myself: a memorable outing. The Cairngorms 4000s is a fairly demanding loop with a frightful height loss into the Lairig Ghru, even when a running approach is taken. My time was as limited as ever but I started from the top car park of Coire Cas at 6am and ploughed directly up the side of the hideous funicular railway to save time and energy. Arguably the ugliest mountain in the UK, ruined by ski machinery and the like, Cairn Gorm does at least have excellent views over the range when you finally emerge at its unspoiled summit dome. Two snow buntings cheered the scene considerably, as did the big views across to distant Braeriach. It was well before 7am, and bitterly cold in a strong northerly wind. This gradually dissipated during the morning, however, and the cloudbase remained high with some milky sunshine at times. From Cairn Gorm, characteristic Cairngorm running through boulder fields led to a col before the subsidiary peak of Stob Coire an t-Sneachda (above the famous winter climbing corrie of the same name). I had a sandwich below Carn Lochain, having missed breakfast, before embarking on the wonderful running across the main Cairngorm plateau. This is as high up and as Arctic as Britain gets, and to be completely alone and moving quickly through this landscape is rather special. Surprisingly, I have only been to the Cairngorms once before - when working in Abernethy in November 1991 when, among a range of smaller outings, I had a salutary experience on Bynack More in a semi white-out, long before the days of accurate mountain forecasts, or indeed the internet. A steep learning curve which I remember well. The running was remarkably comfortable. Indeed, for a hill runner, the ascent of Ben Macdui from Coire Cas is ideal: much of the plateau is runnable on a good path. After lonely Lochan Buidhe, the plateau's lowpoint, the going becomes more bouldery - and the huge summit of Macdui is a notorious wilderness of rock with some of the harshest weather in the UK - but, generally speaking, it is good running terrain and I reached the top of Ben Macdui, Britain's second highest peak, in 1.47 from Coire Cas. From here, the deep gulf of the Lairig Ghru is bleakly obvious. You can't see the bottom, but you know you have to get there before starting the climb back out to the opposite ridge. I had to make some calculations at this point. I wanted to be back in our Laggan cottage for lunch, with several family walks scheduled for this afternoon. The solution was, therefore, to cut diagonally across to Braeriach by dropping down the Allt a Choire Mhor, an obvious stream valley that was pathless and wild but, judging by my map, negotiable. This was indeed the case, although it was predictably steep and completely trackless. It gave a wonderful and exhilerating descent cutting right through the heart of the most dramatic part of the range, with superb views across to Carn Toul and Braeriach. The valley narrowed and steepened at various points, demanding a few detours, but I soon gained the base of the Lairig Ghru, the first time I have ever visited what must be the most famous of all Scottish mountain passes (roadless ones anyway). I drank from the stream, slightly dehydrated, before beginning the monster ascent up Braeraich, a sprawling beast of a mountain which makes up in volume what it lacks in shapeliness. My initial target was a shallow cwm on the right, which I headed towards after crossing the narrow base of the Lairig. Unusually dry underfoot after this dry Spring, which eased progress although it remained steep until I gained the cwm, a wonderfully wild place with some old aircraft debris scattered around and lots of mountain hares. I moved up to the backwall, where I found (to my surprise) a small path zigzagging up from the Lairig Ghru. This helped a lot, and I soon gained the broad ridge curving round to the summit ridge of Braeraich which, again, I had to myself: I had still seen nobody all day, although it was still only around 10.30am. Views down An Gharbh Coire, the West Buttress, and across to the Angel's Peak, Cairn Toul and Ben Macdui were superb, although the sun still hadn't burnt the layer of high cloud away. After a quick snack, I girded my loins for the immense descent - probably the crux of the day, as there is no simple way back to Coire Cas from Braeraich, even though it is not that far away. That said, the run down Sron na Lairige was magnificent, and the sun came out half way down, as did the people - the first I'd seen all day. A long, rocky and runnable descent led to a constriction in the Lairig Ghru and a stream crossing to gain a sharp climb and the path through the tight gorge below Chalamain. This was tiring: it is a long way back from Braeraich, and I was dehydrating slightly. Once out of the gorge, I drank from the stream and had a bite to eat: the sunshine was now out and it was becoming a superb day with all cloud gone and magnificent views over dwarf pines and the Cairngorm landscape to the forests of Rothiemurchus and Meall a'Buachaille (another hill I had done in a white-out in 1991). The fun wasn't over, because the path goes to the bottom car park, not Coire Cas, and I opted for an exhausting and very unwise trudge through appalling trackless heather and untrodden valleys to return by way of an unfeasible directissima! Still, I was back before midday which seemed pretty good for such a demanding route. The day developed into a stunning cloudless afternoon, which we spent wisely and productively as a family: doing the longer loop around the Creag Meagaidh reserve, then the longer wall up to the higher Pattack Falls.
Area: Cairngorms, Scotland
Three of the UK's biggest peaks before 11am with the entire range to myself: a memorable outing. The Cairngorms 4000s is a fairly demanding loop with a frightful height loss into the Lairig Ghru, even when a running approach is taken. My time was as limited as ever but I started from the top car park of Coire Cas at 6am and ploughed directly up the side of the hideous funicular railway to save time and energy. Arguably the ugliest mountain in the UK, ruined by ski machinery and the like, Cairn Gorm does at least have excellent views over the range when you finally emerge at its unspoiled summit dome. Two snow buntings cheered the scene considerably, as did the big views across to distant Braeriach. It was well before 7am, and bitterly cold in a strong northerly wind. This gradually dissipated during the morning, however, and the cloudbase remained high with some milky sunshine at times. From Cairn Gorm, characteristic Cairngorm running through boulder fields led to a col before the subsidiary peak of Stob Coire an t-Sneachda (above the famous winter climbing corrie of the same name). I had a sandwich below Carn Lochain, having missed breakfast, before embarking on the wonderful running across the main Cairngorm plateau. This is as high up and as Arctic as Britain gets, and to be completely alone and moving quickly through this landscape is rather special. Surprisingly, I have only been to the Cairngorms once before - when working in Abernethy in November 1991 when, among a range of smaller outings, I had a salutary experience on Bynack More in a semi white-out, long before the days of accurate mountain forecasts, or indeed the internet. A steep learning curve which I remember well. The running was remarkably comfortable. Indeed, for a hill runner, the ascent of Ben Macdui from Coire Cas is ideal: much of the plateau is runnable on a good path. After lonely Lochan Buidhe, the plateau's lowpoint, the going becomes more bouldery - and the huge summit of Macdui is a notorious wilderness of rock with some of the harshest weather in the UK - but, generally speaking, it is good running terrain and I reached the top of Ben Macdui, Britain's second highest peak, in 1.47 from Coire Cas. From here, the deep gulf of the Lairig Ghru is bleakly obvious. You can't see the bottom, but you know you have to get there before starting the climb back out to the opposite ridge. I had to make some calculations at this point. I wanted to be back in our Laggan cottage for lunch, with several family walks scheduled for this afternoon. The solution was, therefore, to cut diagonally across to Braeriach by dropping down the Allt a Choire Mhor, an obvious stream valley that was pathless and wild but, judging by my map, negotiable. This was indeed the case, although it was predictably steep and completely trackless. It gave a wonderful and exhilerating descent cutting right through the heart of the most dramatic part of the range, with superb views across to Carn Toul and Braeriach. The valley narrowed and steepened at various points, demanding a few detours, but I soon gained the base of the Lairig Ghru, the first time I have ever visited what must be the most famous of all Scottish mountain passes (roadless ones anyway). I drank from the stream, slightly dehydrated, before beginning the monster ascent up Braeraich, a sprawling beast of a mountain which makes up in volume what it lacks in shapeliness. My initial target was a shallow cwm on the right, which I headed towards after crossing the narrow base of the Lairig. Unusually dry underfoot after this dry Spring, which eased progress although it remained steep until I gained the cwm, a wonderfully wild place with some old aircraft debris scattered around and lots of mountain hares. I moved up to the backwall, where I found (to my surprise) a small path zigzagging up from the Lairig Ghru. This helped a lot, and I soon gained the broad ridge curving round to the summit ridge of Braeraich which, again, I had to myself: I had still seen nobody all day, although it was still only around 10.30am. Views down An Gharbh Coire, the West Buttress, and across to the Angel's Peak, Cairn Toul and Ben Macdui were superb, although the sun still hadn't burnt the layer of high cloud away. After a quick snack, I girded my loins for the immense descent - probably the crux of the day, as there is no simple way back to Coire Cas from Braeraich, even though it is not that far away. That said, the run down Sron na Lairige was magnificent, and the sun came out half way down, as did the people - the first I'd seen all day. A long, rocky and runnable descent led to a constriction in the Lairig Ghru and a stream crossing to gain a sharp climb and the path through the tight gorge below Chalamain. This was tiring: it is a long way back from Braeraich, and I was dehydrating slightly. Once out of the gorge, I drank from the stream and had a bite to eat: the sunshine was now out and it was becoming a superb day with all cloud gone and magnificent views over dwarf pines and the Cairngorm landscape to the forests of Rothiemurchus and Meall a'Buachaille (another hill I had done in a white-out in 1991). The fun wasn't over, because the path goes to the bottom car park, not Coire Cas, and I opted for an exhausting and very unwise trudge through appalling trackless heather and untrodden valleys to return by way of an unfeasible directissima! Still, I was back before midday which seemed pretty good for such a demanding route. The day developed into a stunning cloudless afternoon, which we spent wisely and productively as a family: doing the longer loop around the Creag Meagaidh reserve, then the longer wall up to the higher Pattack Falls.
Tuesday, May 30, 2017
Kingussie climbing
Crag: Kingussie, Badenoch, Central Highlands
Routes: The Slab (D:sol), The Edge (VD:sol), The Groove (HS 4b:sh), Quartz Wall (VS 4c:sh), Little Crack (D:sol), Little Wall (D:sol), Capped Corner (S:sol/sh), Mango Rib (VD:sh)
The archetypal beginner's crag, and as such ideal for a brief solo pre-breakfast outing before the rain arrived. I jogged up from the top of the town, through some woods to the obvious clean and slabby main face. The rock is mica schist, rather polished but running to flat holds with the odd quartz pocket. The Slab gave a very obvious warm-up, a simple romp up the eponymous feature, while the Edge takes a nice line up the edge of the slab further left: steep and juggy to start. I also descended both these routes. I shunted the Groove, which is perhaps the strongest line on the crag with an awkward crux early on. Pleasant bridging higher up. Quartz Wall just about stays independent as an eliminate line between the groove and the edge. It gives nice delicate climbing. Further right, a small and very polished wall had obviously been used by groups for years: some easy polished lines like Little Crack and Little Wall. I finished off with Capped Corner, putting a shunt on for the short crux moves right over a bulge towards the top: and a dirtier climb up the rib. It started to rain as I descended, hungry, back to the cottage for breakfast.
Routes: The Slab (D:sol), The Edge (VD:sol), The Groove (HS 4b:sh), Quartz Wall (VS 4c:sh), Little Crack (D:sol), Little Wall (D:sol), Capped Corner (S:sol/sh), Mango Rib (VD:sh)
The archetypal beginner's crag, and as such ideal for a brief solo pre-breakfast outing before the rain arrived. I jogged up from the top of the town, through some woods to the obvious clean and slabby main face. The rock is mica schist, rather polished but running to flat holds with the odd quartz pocket. The Slab gave a very obvious warm-up, a simple romp up the eponymous feature, while the Edge takes a nice line up the edge of the slab further left: steep and juggy to start. I also descended both these routes. I shunted the Groove, which is perhaps the strongest line on the crag with an awkward crux early on. Pleasant bridging higher up. Quartz Wall just about stays independent as an eliminate line between the groove and the edge. It gives nice delicate climbing. Further right, a small and very polished wall had obviously been used by groups for years: some easy polished lines like Little Crack and Little Wall. I finished off with Capped Corner, putting a shunt on for the short crux moves right over a bulge towards the top: and a dirtier climb up the rib. It started to rain as I descended, hungry, back to the cottage for breakfast.
Monday, May 29, 2017
Creag Dubh
Peaks: Creag Dubh (756m)
Area: Badenoch, Central Highlands
My birthday, and therefore the only day of the year I can feasibly 'force' the offspring to join me in the hills. Creag Dubh is the real signature peak of this part of the Spey Valley, and as we were staying in Laggan it seemed essential and the obvious choice for a family outing on the morning of my birthday (a short route doesn't try their patience too much). It was supposedly the battle cry of the local McPherson clan, and is a sharp and rugged little mountain with a famous roadside crag above delightful Lochan Ulvie: the Scottish 'Tremadog' perhaps. We set off by skirting the crag, then up a very tenuous path through a large boulder field. Amazingly difficult route-finding for such an obvious peak, possibly because it fails to achieve Corbett status, although surely people are not that shallow. More likely, the steep and rough terrain puts people off, as a tiny path then heads up the edge of a plantation steeply before disappearing completely among dwarf birches. We continued up, as I picked a route through to gain steeper bracken and then, finally, the main ridge with a properly defined path. The children and Kate didn't complain too much, although the ridge then contained multiple false summits. Despite this, some very mild scrambling interspersed with very pleasant ridge walking made the top section ideal for our purposes today. Although it was cloudy, Creag Dubh benefits from its isolated position and has unusually varied views: wild over the Monadhliath range to the west, which really captured my attention, and tranquil and green over Speyside to the east. After descending, the weather cleared nicely for a picnic on the green shores of Loch Insh, looking out to the high Cairngorms.
Area: Badenoch, Central Highlands
My birthday, and therefore the only day of the year I can feasibly 'force' the offspring to join me in the hills. Creag Dubh is the real signature peak of this part of the Spey Valley, and as we were staying in Laggan it seemed essential and the obvious choice for a family outing on the morning of my birthday (a short route doesn't try their patience too much). It was supposedly the battle cry of the local McPherson clan, and is a sharp and rugged little mountain with a famous roadside crag above delightful Lochan Ulvie: the Scottish 'Tremadog' perhaps. We set off by skirting the crag, then up a very tenuous path through a large boulder field. Amazingly difficult route-finding for such an obvious peak, possibly because it fails to achieve Corbett status, although surely people are not that shallow. More likely, the steep and rough terrain puts people off, as a tiny path then heads up the edge of a plantation steeply before disappearing completely among dwarf birches. We continued up, as I picked a route through to gain steeper bracken and then, finally, the main ridge with a properly defined path. The children and Kate didn't complain too much, although the ridge then contained multiple false summits. Despite this, some very mild scrambling interspersed with very pleasant ridge walking made the top section ideal for our purposes today. Although it was cloudy, Creag Dubh benefits from its isolated position and has unusually varied views: wild over the Monadhliath range to the west, which really captured my attention, and tranquil and green over Speyside to the east. After descending, the weather cleared nicely for a picnic on the green shores of Loch Insh, looking out to the high Cairngorms.
Sunday, May 28, 2017
Creag Meagaidh traverse
Peaks: Meall an t'Snaim (969m), Sron Coire a'Chriochairean (991m), Stob Poite Coire Ardair (1053m), Creag Meagaidh (1130m), Puist Coire Ardair (1070m), Sron a'Choire (1001m)
Area: Creag Meagaidh, Central Highlands
The path into the spectacular Coire Ardair is so well-defined and runnable that I inadvertently missed the route up Carn Liath, the first peak on the large horseshoe encompassing this valley. It was so manicured and perfect, through wonderful native woodland in places, that I was enjoying myself and carried on for a couple of miles before finally having to strike directly up the steep hillside to the north-east. I emerged at Meall an t'Snaim, which is more or less at the same level of Carn Liath, just a continuation of the very broad ridge that then, happily, narrows: meaning I hadn't missed any of the good bits. Even better, the weather was improving by the minute. It had been a clagged-in morning with a touch of drizzle for our family walks in the valley but now, as forecast, it was improving dramatically. As usual, this was perforce a short outing, grabbed mid-afternoon at the start of our 7th consecutive Highland holiday, but prospects were superb as I crested the ridge and followed it across the better defined little summit of Chriochairean. Big views opening out to the north, rather disorientating initially as Creag Meagaidh occupies such a central position in the Highlands - and I'd never really visited the immediate area before. Still, the Mamores, Knoydart and Ben Nevis were all obvious. Great running along the edge of Coire Ardair goes via a couple of subsidiary summits to the Munro of Stob Poite Coire Ardair. A steep descent leads down to the pronounced col of The Window, visible and obvious from the Spean Bridge road way below. A wild prospect further west over Lochan Uaine and steep running over a few large snow patches eventually leads to the detached summit of Creag Meagaidh itself. The complex topography here - with five ridges radiating out from a plateau - would likely be a nightmare in mist, but there were no such problems today, just huge views and big skies in every direction as the sun made its presence felt. A superb and exhilarating descent, initially over feathery, almost carpeted ground on the plateau - extraordinarily comfortable underfoot - led over Puist Coire Ardair to loop round the opposite side of Coire Ardair. Keeping to the lip of the cwm gave the best views of the day, looking over the huge 'Posts' of Coire Ardair to the lake below. From Sron a'Choire, the final nose overlooking Loch Laggan, a very steep descent led down arduous tussocky heather to the valley bottom. This was tough: I could see the tourist trail below but never seemed to get any closer to it. Back comfortably in time to cook dinner: an excellent horseshoe round one of Scotland's finest massifs. A pleasant family walk round Pattack falls in warm evening sunshine followed.
Area: Creag Meagaidh, Central Highlands
The path into the spectacular Coire Ardair is so well-defined and runnable that I inadvertently missed the route up Carn Liath, the first peak on the large horseshoe encompassing this valley. It was so manicured and perfect, through wonderful native woodland in places, that I was enjoying myself and carried on for a couple of miles before finally having to strike directly up the steep hillside to the north-east. I emerged at Meall an t'Snaim, which is more or less at the same level of Carn Liath, just a continuation of the very broad ridge that then, happily, narrows: meaning I hadn't missed any of the good bits. Even better, the weather was improving by the minute. It had been a clagged-in morning with a touch of drizzle for our family walks in the valley but now, as forecast, it was improving dramatically. As usual, this was perforce a short outing, grabbed mid-afternoon at the start of our 7th consecutive Highland holiday, but prospects were superb as I crested the ridge and followed it across the better defined little summit of Chriochairean. Big views opening out to the north, rather disorientating initially as Creag Meagaidh occupies such a central position in the Highlands - and I'd never really visited the immediate area before. Still, the Mamores, Knoydart and Ben Nevis were all obvious. Great running along the edge of Coire Ardair goes via a couple of subsidiary summits to the Munro of Stob Poite Coire Ardair. A steep descent leads down to the pronounced col of The Window, visible and obvious from the Spean Bridge road way below. A wild prospect further west over Lochan Uaine and steep running over a few large snow patches eventually leads to the detached summit of Creag Meagaidh itself. The complex topography here - with five ridges radiating out from a plateau - would likely be a nightmare in mist, but there were no such problems today, just huge views and big skies in every direction as the sun made its presence felt. A superb and exhilarating descent, initially over feathery, almost carpeted ground on the plateau - extraordinarily comfortable underfoot - led over Puist Coire Ardair to loop round the opposite side of Coire Ardair. Keeping to the lip of the cwm gave the best views of the day, looking over the huge 'Posts' of Coire Ardair to the lake below. From Sron a'Choire, the final nose overlooking Loch Laggan, a very steep descent led down arduous tussocky heather to the valley bottom. This was tough: I could see the tourist trail below but never seemed to get any closer to it. Back comfortably in time to cook dinner: an excellent horseshoe round one of Scotland's finest massifs. A pleasant family walk round Pattack falls in warm evening sunshine followed.
Saturday, May 27, 2017
Schiehallion run
Peak: Schiehallion (1083m)
Area: Perthshire, Scotland
A famous mountain, conical and eye-catching, although I had never done it before as it is some way removed from our usual stamping ground further west. However, this time it was en route to our Laggan cottage and seemed ideally suited to a running approach. It was indeed, and I set off at lunchtime as the family went to get sandwiches in Tummel Bridge. The standard route must be a rather boring walk, gently up via a whaleback ridge on zigzags, lots of erosion and newly constructed sections. But it works perfectly as a run, and I got to the top in 49 minutes. Some rain was in the air after a hot week: humid and cloudy, but with just a little light mist playing around the summit. The first half is all very runnable, and quick progress remains possible as the ridge gets a bit more defined (and much rockier) towards the summit of bare rock. Pelted down to join the family after less than 100 minutes of running.
Area: Perthshire, Scotland
A famous mountain, conical and eye-catching, although I had never done it before as it is some way removed from our usual stamping ground further west. However, this time it was en route to our Laggan cottage and seemed ideally suited to a running approach. It was indeed, and I set off at lunchtime as the family went to get sandwiches in Tummel Bridge. The standard route must be a rather boring walk, gently up via a whaleback ridge on zigzags, lots of erosion and newly constructed sections. But it works perfectly as a run, and I got to the top in 49 minutes. Some rain was in the air after a hot week: humid and cloudy, but with just a little light mist playing around the summit. The first half is all very runnable, and quick progress remains possible as the ridge gets a bit more defined (and much rockier) towards the summit of bare rock. Pelted down to join the family after less than 100 minutes of running.
Wednesday, May 24, 2017
Berwyn run and bivouac
Peaks: Cadair Bronwen, Cadair Berwyn
Area: Berwyn, Eryri
A kit-testing trip, bivvying on the summit of Cadair Berwyn. As a younger man, I slept in the old orange polythene bivvy bags numerous times: condensation was the inevitable result and I still retain powerful memories of the associated discomfort. Over a quarter of a century on, technology has evolved a bit and I wanted to try out my new rather more sophisticated bag in as remote a location as was feasible in an after-work trip. Cadair Berwyn fitted that particular bill nicely, and it was a glorious early evening as I set off from Llandrillo with lightweight 'mountain marathon' style sac. Along the initially steep track to gain the excellent runnable track going past the stone circle of Moel Ty Uchaf. I left my sac at Bwlch Maen Gwynedd then ran up Cadair Bronwen for fabulous views over to the Clwydians and beyond. I then descended Nant Cwm Llawenog to get water. It is unusually dry everywhere across the region at present: very little running water across the entire Berwyn range. Advantages: dry feet, a real novelty. Disadvantages: not ideal on a summit bivouac, long detours for water required! I jogged to the summit of Cadair Berwyn, setting up the bivvy site just below the trig point in the lee of a light but persistent westerly. The evening past pleasantly. I jogged over for views of Llyn Lluncaws, had a nice meal of salmon, noodles and bulgar wheat and then, partly for training purposes, descended a long way (2k and 250m) down Cwm Tywyll for water. Views were extensive in all directions: across to the Rhinogydd and Irish Sea, up as far as Tal y Fan and Moel Hiraddug to the north, and down to the Wrekin, Caer Caradog and Corndon to the south. The sun set over central Eryri through thin ribbons of black cloud. Sadly, the new bag did not prevent the old condensation problem: I slept fitfully and woke in the small hours, rather damp and uncomfortable, reminding me of the polythene bag bivouacs of my youth. As it was a working day, I needed some more sleep than that so headed back to Llandrillo in the dark which turned into a perfect night-time navigation exercise! A couple of hours extra sleep in the back of the car, then a working day via some superb early morning bouldering at Trevor Rocks above Llangollen, followed by a run along the escarpment in wonderful conditions before 8am.
Area: Berwyn, Eryri
A kit-testing trip, bivvying on the summit of Cadair Berwyn. As a younger man, I slept in the old orange polythene bivvy bags numerous times: condensation was the inevitable result and I still retain powerful memories of the associated discomfort. Over a quarter of a century on, technology has evolved a bit and I wanted to try out my new rather more sophisticated bag in as remote a location as was feasible in an after-work trip. Cadair Berwyn fitted that particular bill nicely, and it was a glorious early evening as I set off from Llandrillo with lightweight 'mountain marathon' style sac. Along the initially steep track to gain the excellent runnable track going past the stone circle of Moel Ty Uchaf. I left my sac at Bwlch Maen Gwynedd then ran up Cadair Bronwen for fabulous views over to the Clwydians and beyond. I then descended Nant Cwm Llawenog to get water. It is unusually dry everywhere across the region at present: very little running water across the entire Berwyn range. Advantages: dry feet, a real novelty. Disadvantages: not ideal on a summit bivouac, long detours for water required! I jogged to the summit of Cadair Berwyn, setting up the bivvy site just below the trig point in the lee of a light but persistent westerly. The evening past pleasantly. I jogged over for views of Llyn Lluncaws, had a nice meal of salmon, noodles and bulgar wheat and then, partly for training purposes, descended a long way (2k and 250m) down Cwm Tywyll for water. Views were extensive in all directions: across to the Rhinogydd and Irish Sea, up as far as Tal y Fan and Moel Hiraddug to the north, and down to the Wrekin, Caer Caradog and Corndon to the south. The sun set over central Eryri through thin ribbons of black cloud. Sadly, the new bag did not prevent the old condensation problem: I slept fitfully and woke in the small hours, rather damp and uncomfortable, reminding me of the polythene bag bivouacs of my youth. As it was a working day, I needed some more sleep than that so headed back to Llandrillo in the dark which turned into a perfect night-time navigation exercise! A couple of hours extra sleep in the back of the car, then a working day via some superb early morning bouldering at Trevor Rocks above Llangollen, followed by a run along the escarpment in wonderful conditions before 8am.
Saturday, May 20, 2017
Ras y Gader
Race: Ras y Gader/Cader Idris fell race (10.5m/3000ft/AM)
Time/Position: 1.42.47 (24th from 270)
Back at the Cader race for the first time since 2009: a long gap. Too long, in fact, for me to remember the important racing line down the grassy rake from the summit rocks. I missed it, which was rather annoying, although once again I descended better than I climbed (which is not saying very much). The race always has a real sense of occasion starting and finishing in Dolgellau, that most distinctive and attractive of north Wales towns, and it celebrated its 25th anniversary this year (the 4th time I have done it). It is not an easy race to pace, as a long but steep road climb from the town makes the start pretty quick, before a long cross-country style path around the side of Llyn Gwernan. The next few fields are often very boggy, but were much drier today, and the mist was beginning to lift from the Cyfrwy arete and even Pen y Gadair itself after a wet morning. Finally, the car park and start of the normal ascent route is gained. This goes steeply up 'steps' for a good few hundred metres until it levels off to contour the lower hillside below hidden Llyn y Gadair. It steepens again at the zig zags, and I missed a couple of short cuts. Steve and I were together and equally matched, not for the first time this season! At the broad bwlch, the angle eases again and a runnable section leads up to steep scree before another runnable section (I cut the corner across awkward scree) leads to the final, much rockier climb. Mist was playing round the summit, quite atmospheric, and temperatures were a good 10c colder than in Dolgellau. I touched the cairn in 1.02 from Eldon Square (32nd to the top). The descent is notoriously tricky at first, down some rocky steps to the gentler section. I pelted down here, only realising after a couple of minutes that I was alone, and all the runners I had been with were instead hundreds of metres ahead on the grassy racing line! Very annoying. After this, I took all the direct short-cuts straight down the steepest line cutting out the zigzags. I like this terrain and took a few places. The contouring section back to the car park is good if you have the legs, and I felt OK. The key challenge in this race then becomes the small matter of adapting to the level XC section round the lake. Not easy after the flat-out descent, but a bit of endurance kicked in and I took five or six more places before the manic final dash down two miles of steep tarmac: around 39.50 from the summit to Eldon Square. An ideal family outing, we all enjoyed the day, and it was nice to do this classic race again after such a long gap.
Time/Position: 1.42.47 (24th from 270)
Back at the Cader race for the first time since 2009: a long gap. Too long, in fact, for me to remember the important racing line down the grassy rake from the summit rocks. I missed it, which was rather annoying, although once again I descended better than I climbed (which is not saying very much). The race always has a real sense of occasion starting and finishing in Dolgellau, that most distinctive and attractive of north Wales towns, and it celebrated its 25th anniversary this year (the 4th time I have done it). It is not an easy race to pace, as a long but steep road climb from the town makes the start pretty quick, before a long cross-country style path around the side of Llyn Gwernan. The next few fields are often very boggy, but were much drier today, and the mist was beginning to lift from the Cyfrwy arete and even Pen y Gadair itself after a wet morning. Finally, the car park and start of the normal ascent route is gained. This goes steeply up 'steps' for a good few hundred metres until it levels off to contour the lower hillside below hidden Llyn y Gadair. It steepens again at the zig zags, and I missed a couple of short cuts. Steve and I were together and equally matched, not for the first time this season! At the broad bwlch, the angle eases again and a runnable section leads up to steep scree before another runnable section (I cut the corner across awkward scree) leads to the final, much rockier climb. Mist was playing round the summit, quite atmospheric, and temperatures were a good 10c colder than in Dolgellau. I touched the cairn in 1.02 from Eldon Square (32nd to the top). The descent is notoriously tricky at first, down some rocky steps to the gentler section. I pelted down here, only realising after a couple of minutes that I was alone, and all the runners I had been with were instead hundreds of metres ahead on the grassy racing line! Very annoying. After this, I took all the direct short-cuts straight down the steepest line cutting out the zigzags. I like this terrain and took a few places. The contouring section back to the car park is good if you have the legs, and I felt OK. The key challenge in this race then becomes the small matter of adapting to the level XC section round the lake. Not easy after the flat-out descent, but a bit of endurance kicked in and I took five or six more places before the manic final dash down two miles of steep tarmac: around 39.50 from the summit to Eldon Square. An ideal family outing, we all enjoyed the day, and it was nice to do this classic race again after such a long gap.
Friday, May 19, 2017
Trench Wall climbing
Crag: Trench Wall, Penmaen Head
Routes: Thin on Top (f6a:led), Trench Warfare (f6a+:sec), Billy Liar (f6a+:led*), Billy Liar (f6a+:sec), Spanish Plume (f6a:led)
Possibly the least pleasant ambience of any Welsh crag: right next to the A55, above a large rubbish-filled ditch, facing due north with zero chance of any sunshine. However, the climbing is quite good: long pitches on smooth but fairly solid limestone. The eponymous trench is literally that - a big ditch which makes the routes much longer than they look from the road, 22m or so. I kicked off with Thin on Top, an f6a which breaks out of the obvious shallow groove taken by Trench Warfare to finish left up the off-vertical upper wall. This is a pleasing pitch, and it was good to get on some harder and more technical rock for a change. It is reasonably sustained but also has some good rests and was exactly what I needed. The smoothness of the limestone on this face is a tad disconcerting at first acquaintance, and the route steepens towards the top, although the holds remain pretty friendly throughout. The groove to the right was similar in standard we felt, despite the grade. Some questionable rock and a scruffy section towards the top but another decent climb. Billy Liar takes slabbier ground to the right, and looks fairly innocuous. This is an illusion as it gives quite technical moves, one sharp rockover in particular, up to a steep finish. This baffled me on first acquaintance, approaching it direct and from both sides, to no avail: ended up dogging the end of the route which was rather annoying. After clipping the lower off, we both tried it again. This time it went perfectly cleanly: a balancy move up the small groove at the top gained the obvious hold before a steep but fairly juggy finish. My lack of upper body stamina told for Spanish Plume, a scrappier and much shorter route at the far left of the crag, which goes up via a borehole to climb a wall on flat holds. It was time to call it a day, as I'd already used my calves too much in advance of tomorrow's Ras y Gader.
Routes: Thin on Top (f6a:led), Trench Warfare (f6a+:sec), Billy Liar (f6a+:led*), Billy Liar (f6a+:sec), Spanish Plume (f6a:led)
Possibly the least pleasant ambience of any Welsh crag: right next to the A55, above a large rubbish-filled ditch, facing due north with zero chance of any sunshine. However, the climbing is quite good: long pitches on smooth but fairly solid limestone. The eponymous trench is literally that - a big ditch which makes the routes much longer than they look from the road, 22m or so. I kicked off with Thin on Top, an f6a which breaks out of the obvious shallow groove taken by Trench Warfare to finish left up the off-vertical upper wall. This is a pleasing pitch, and it was good to get on some harder and more technical rock for a change. It is reasonably sustained but also has some good rests and was exactly what I needed. The smoothness of the limestone on this face is a tad disconcerting at first acquaintance, and the route steepens towards the top, although the holds remain pretty friendly throughout. The groove to the right was similar in standard we felt, despite the grade. Some questionable rock and a scruffy section towards the top but another decent climb. Billy Liar takes slabbier ground to the right, and looks fairly innocuous. This is an illusion as it gives quite technical moves, one sharp rockover in particular, up to a steep finish. This baffled me on first acquaintance, approaching it direct and from both sides, to no avail: ended up dogging the end of the route which was rather annoying. After clipping the lower off, we both tried it again. This time it went perfectly cleanly: a balancy move up the small groove at the top gained the obvious hold before a steep but fairly juggy finish. My lack of upper body stamina told for Spanish Plume, a scrappier and much shorter route at the far left of the crag, which goes up via a borehole to climb a wall on flat holds. It was time to call it a day, as I'd already used my calves too much in advance of tomorrow's Ras y Gader.
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