Peaks: Sron na Ciche (859m), Sgurr Sgumain (947m), Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn (938m), Sgurr Dubh Mor (944m)
Area: Black Cuillin, Skye
Routes: Cioch Direct (S:led p.2,4), Arrow Route (VD:led p.1), Collie's Route (M:led), Integrity (VS 4b,4b:sec), TD Gap East Side (VD:sec)
The archetypal 'big day', and a wonderfully varied curtain-raiser to a short but successful Skye trip. I had prevaricated about any kind of Scottish trip this year, with the children not wanting to come, but as the forecast was so good, and the weather so stable in a blocking high, the 11 hour drive seemed worth it. Vic was already up, and Skye seemed the best option with torrential downpours inland (one of which I'd driven through yesterday). So, rather unexpectedly I found myself making my fourth visit to the island, but the first in properly stable weather (in 1993 we endured a week of continual rain, in 2015 it was mixed but very cold). Walking in to Coire Lagan on the first morning was a delight: red throated divers on loch an fhir bhallaich, with the sea turquoise beyond, and Rum and Soay glittering. Then, it is round the corner into Coire Lagan, one of the finest bowls of rock in the UK. I have vivid memories of a brief clearance here in 1993 as we walked in for the north ridge of Sgumain. Today, it was baked dry, and we were glad of the shade as we set off up the first pitch of the grand old classic Cioch Direct. This takes a series of grooves and chimneys in a 500ft romp up towards the Cioch itself. A tricky first move gains an easy open groove and good moves on the wonderful gabbro - above, easier climbing to the stance. I then led a shorter second up two tighter grooves to a good flake belay: good climbing on more superb rock. The crux comes immediately afterwards, a steep and tight chimney which is awkward with big sacks, which we were both carrying. But we squeezed through using holds on the right wall. Finally, I led a long and exposed final pitch which heads leftwards over slabs to twin cracks, which give interesting climbing to a slabby finish and a terrace. Above, a scrambly pitch gains a wider terrace and the full grandeur of the crag and environment becomes clear for the first time. Up right, the shadow of the Cioch itself, arguably the most famous rock feature in the British Isles. Directly above, the perfect slab taken by Arrow Route. We were intent on the classic combination, so I led an easy first pitch to belay at the break, before Vic padded up to the top - superb open slab climbing, delightfully simple but in a wonderful position on perfect rock. Then comes the real thrill of standing on the narrow neck below the Cioch, which I now led up to via an easy crack system, the top of Collie's Route. We had it to ourselves as I bought Vic up - a wonderful, memorable experience. The sun was just beginning to peep over the top of the crag, and it lit the Cioch as we sat on its roof (the size of a small room) suspended above the crag. After lunch, we continued up the final part of the combination: Integrity, which starts from a recess above a diagonal ledge. The first pitch is outstanding: perfect clean rock, steep initially up to a pocketed slab. The pitch lengths were wrong in our guidebook so Vic ended up leading the second too from a cramped stance as I didn't fancy the move over the roof wearing a sac. The real belay is directly above: annoying. A series of chimneys then leads to the top in a stunning position. Above, an easy pitch to gain the plateau on top of Sron na Ciche in fabulous weather - light mist was now draped over Sgurr Dearg and brushing the top of Alastair above. We relaxed in the sunshine as the day was young, we'd only taken a few hours for the combination (Cioch Direct was dispatched in an hour). Then, it was time for the mountaineering aspect of the day and I was desperate to get to grips with the ridge in these conditions. We headed up Sgumain via some fine scrambling (last here in 1993), then down to the traverse path below Alasdair which leads to the main ridge just south of the T-D gap. Vic suggested we reccie this famous section of the ridge, so we moved along towards it, finding an initial pitch up an easier gap (on which we moved together) before abbing into the famous Thearlaich-Dubh gap itself. Sadly, another party were on it and were moving unbelievably slowly, so we took the frustrating decision to head back up the south side, a short VD climb, before following the ridge south to Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn. This section is broad and uncomplicated, although the subsequent branch to the munro of Sgurr Dubh Mor is far more complex and would be hard in mist. Pinnacles are avoided to the right, then a traverse path leads to superb scrambling as we took as direct a line as possible to the summit. Short walls and grooves, generally perfect gabbro, brilliant fun even though we were tiring. Then, at the sharp summit, as the sun began to drop, stunning views down to Coruisk and Sleat to the east. We then picked up the less than obvious traverse path back to Bealach a Gharbh Coire, almost certainly not the best route, tough terrain throughout, particularly at the end of a long day. I'd intended to sprint up Sgurr nan Eag but the thought of food and drink got the better of me: we were dehydrated, inevitably, so jogged down to the stunning Coire a'Ghrunnda, its sky-blue water glittering in the evening sunshine. Below the tricky slabs, a stream, and relief (although the midges soon moved us on). A long walk-out under deep blue cloudless skies ensued, and it was close to 9pm by the time we got back to the Glen Brittle memorial hut, where I slept in the van to the sound of curlew and drumming snipe.
A self-indulgent journal of pointless adventures in mountain sports and all forms of distance running and racing.
Sunday, June 03, 2018
Friday, June 01, 2018
Sron Garbh run
It had been my intention to break the long drive to Skye with a run over some Southern Highlands peaks. But after a late breakfast in Moffat, and lunch on the shores of of Loch Lomond, slow moving showers came in as I set out up An Caisteal from the layby south of Crianlarich. The cloudbase was quite high, so I kept running - torn between wanting to do something and wanting to save energy for Skye. The rain became a bit more steady as I left the path for the steep climb up the nose of Sron Garbh, obvious from the main road. As I crested the ridge to get a view of Twistin Hill and An Caisteal, there was a clap of thunder. A good sign, I thought, and turned round for a running descent back to the car. Still, a nice way to stretch the legs and bonus energy saved to spend over the next few days.
Thursday, May 31, 2018
North Berwyn Way
Peaks: Pen Creigiau'r Barcud, Moel Fferna, Vivod Mountain
Area: Berwyn
An excellent point to point run over remote terrain from Corwen to Llangollen. We left early in the morning, to find the hills above Llangollen clagged in but the hills further west clear - the result of the perfect eastern airflow which is leading to great conditions in the western fringes of the UK. The route crosses the A5 then gives a nice flat warm-up along the banks of the Dee - very pretty on an early May morning - to Cynwyd. From here, the route climbs steadily but never too steeply through Cynwyd forest towards the most remote parts of the Berwyn (indeed, much of the route was new to me although I have been up the hills before). Jez and I kept a decent pace going throughout and detoured to the top of Pen Creigiau'r Barcud - an obscure spot indeed - before rejoining the main, very runnable path towards Bwlch Cynwyd. Atmospheric conditions here, as the moist, misty air from the east hit the clearer air to the west. We ran to the top of Fferna in shifting mists, then it was into damp clag for the rest of the trip - heading east above the Ceiriog forest to Vivod (last visited during the Ceiriog Canter race). From Vivod, it is all downhill in a direct line to Llangollen, finishing with the very steep bridleway from Ffynnon Las. Less than 2.5 hours car-to-car: this would make an excellent loop combined with the Dee Valley Way, ideal ultra training. Refuelled stylishly with dosas and Keralan curry.
Area: Berwyn
An excellent point to point run over remote terrain from Corwen to Llangollen. We left early in the morning, to find the hills above Llangollen clagged in but the hills further west clear - the result of the perfect eastern airflow which is leading to great conditions in the western fringes of the UK. The route crosses the A5 then gives a nice flat warm-up along the banks of the Dee - very pretty on an early May morning - to Cynwyd. From here, the route climbs steadily but never too steeply through Cynwyd forest towards the most remote parts of the Berwyn (indeed, much of the route was new to me although I have been up the hills before). Jez and I kept a decent pace going throughout and detoured to the top of Pen Creigiau'r Barcud - an obscure spot indeed - before rejoining the main, very runnable path towards Bwlch Cynwyd. Atmospheric conditions here, as the moist, misty air from the east hit the clearer air to the west. We ran to the top of Fferna in shifting mists, then it was into damp clag for the rest of the trip - heading east above the Ceiriog forest to Vivod (last visited during the Ceiriog Canter race). From Vivod, it is all downhill in a direct line to Llangollen, finishing with the very steep bridleway from Ffynnon Las. Less than 2.5 hours car-to-car: this would make an excellent loop combined with the Dee Valley Way, ideal ultra training. Refuelled stylishly with dosas and Keralan curry.
Tuesday, May 29, 2018
Moel Siabod walk
Peak: Moel Siabod
Area: Moelwynion, Eryri
We would normally be in Scotland during Whit week, but this year it was unfeasible for numerous reasons, so my birthday treat (which has been a family hillwalk for the last few years - Creag Dubh last year, Ben Hiant in 2016) was going to have to be a tad more local. I felt Siabod would be ideal, so we did the classic circuit through the quarries and above Llyn y Foel. The weather was lovely first thing, but began to cloud over and become disappointingly hazy as we began the mild scramble up Ddaear Ddu, the gentle ridge leading to the summit. I thought they would have enjoyed this, but instead they found it a tedious grind! It does have the virtue of directness though, and moods improved as we ate our lunches on the summit. No real views, sadly, because of the haze. The family were then further boosted by the discovery that my promise of an easy descent was grounded in reality! Straight down to the cafe, and I ran back for the car before enjoying the cake.
Area: Moelwynion, Eryri
We would normally be in Scotland during Whit week, but this year it was unfeasible for numerous reasons, so my birthday treat (which has been a family hillwalk for the last few years - Creag Dubh last year, Ben Hiant in 2016) was going to have to be a tad more local. I felt Siabod would be ideal, so we did the classic circuit through the quarries and above Llyn y Foel. The weather was lovely first thing, but began to cloud over and become disappointingly hazy as we began the mild scramble up Ddaear Ddu, the gentle ridge leading to the summit. I thought they would have enjoyed this, but instead they found it a tedious grind! It does have the virtue of directness though, and moods improved as we ate our lunches on the summit. No real views, sadly, because of the haze. The family were then further boosted by the discovery that my promise of an easy descent was grounded in reality! Straight down to the cafe, and I ran back for the car before enjoying the cake.
Monday, May 28, 2018
Dyserth climbing
Crag: Dyserth Castle Slab
Routes: Genesis (f6b+:led), Isabella Rose (f6a:led), Llewellyn ap Gruffydd (f6a+:led), Tegengle (f6a:sec)
I'd intended to embrace the steepness of Ty Newydd, but after thunderstorms yesterday it was wet when we arrived in the morning, steam rising from the temperate rainforest in this secluded valley. So it was on to plan b, which involved revisiting the Castle Slab. The weather was warm and sunny, and I started off by repeating Genesis, the hardest route here but absurdly overgraded at 6b+. It has lovely technical moves, crisp and crimpy, and a tricky crux, but it isn't sustained and would barely warrant 6a in Provence. Time was very limited, and I led the longer routes to the left (again) before Steve took the lead for Tegengle. After lunch, I ran from home to Chester for a family walk.
Routes: Genesis (f6b+:led), Isabella Rose (f6a:led), Llewellyn ap Gruffydd (f6a+:led), Tegengle (f6a:sec)
I'd intended to embrace the steepness of Ty Newydd, but after thunderstorms yesterday it was wet when we arrived in the morning, steam rising from the temperate rainforest in this secluded valley. So it was on to plan b, which involved revisiting the Castle Slab. The weather was warm and sunny, and I started off by repeating Genesis, the hardest route here but absurdly overgraded at 6b+. It has lovely technical moves, crisp and crimpy, and a tricky crux, but it isn't sustained and would barely warrant 6a in Provence. Time was very limited, and I led the longer routes to the left (again) before Steve took the lead for Tegengle. After lunch, I ran from home to Chester for a family walk.
Sunday, May 27, 2018
Mynydd Myfyr race
Race: Mynydd Myfyr hill race, Trefonen (4m/500ft)
Time/Position: 24.18 (8th from 50)
I knew I would suffer on this short race, having done no speedwork for months, but I also knew it would do me good with a couple of team events coming up as a break from the ultras. I'd never done it before, although I have done most of the events that take in the hills of the Oswestry hinterland: always very pleasant. This was no exception, as it leaves Trefonen up lanes and tracks to take in a longer loop round to the top of the miniature mountain of Mynydd Myfyr (the race remains on the 'English' side of the border throughout). From here, it descends through fields and lanes back to the finish outside the village pub. Warm and humid, although we avoided the thundery showers passing through.
Time/Position: 24.18 (8th from 50)
I knew I would suffer on this short race, having done no speedwork for months, but I also knew it would do me good with a couple of team events coming up as a break from the ultras. I'd never done it before, although I have done most of the events that take in the hills of the Oswestry hinterland: always very pleasant. This was no exception, as it leaves Trefonen up lanes and tracks to take in a longer loop round to the top of the miniature mountain of Mynydd Myfyr (the race remains on the 'English' side of the border throughout). From here, it descends through fields and lanes back to the finish outside the village pub. Warm and humid, although we avoided the thundery showers passing through.
Thursday, May 24, 2018
Craig Ddu climbing
Crag: Craig Ddu, Nant Peris
Routes: Zig Zag (VS 4b:sec), Rift Wall (VS 4c,5a,4a:led p.1)
Always satisfying to grab some routes at this notoriously slimy, slow-drying crag, but it was particularly so today as it started to rain as we finished Rift Wall. Even better, both routes were new to me. In the past, I've done a few routes here on a few different visits to the crag, which looks so unappealing and black (as its name suggests) from the road. The left-side of the crag is particularly bad - the routes feel a tad disconcerting although the climbing is often fairly easy and the pocketed, juggy rock is actually excellent. Still, I had no great desire to lead Zig Zag, which Vic did in a single pitch. Sadly, he didn't reach the top so I had to climb to the first ledge to allow him to belay - all on instinct, we couldn't hear each other. Good juggy rock leads to a short groove and steep move to gain a vague diagonal ramp which leads to a wet and insecure section even after a long dry period. Easy climbing throughout and a worthwhile outing. Rift Wall is a better route, which nudges classic status and has three unusually varied pitches with interesting climbing throughout. I led the first, up a pocketed wall to a ledge, then a steep move up a shorter wall to gain a big flake and a traverse line leading back right. This is harder than it looks, but gives good, steady climbing - steep in places with the wall impending above - to gain a pinnacle and then a hidden slab further up on the right. The crux comes immediately afterwards, and Vic took this second pitch. A steep corner crack is tackled by tricky bridging moves to a high side pull, then better holds and fun, juggy climbing. It ends abruptly at a slab, after which the entire route eases (fortunately, as it was now raining - the end of the dry spell). The route ends with an exposed traverse left round an arete on huge flakey holds. The rain became steadier as we descended, so we called it a day, happy to tick off two rarely-in-condition minor Snowdonian classics.
Routes: Zig Zag (VS 4b:sec), Rift Wall (VS 4c,5a,4a:led p.1)
Always satisfying to grab some routes at this notoriously slimy, slow-drying crag, but it was particularly so today as it started to rain as we finished Rift Wall. Even better, both routes were new to me. In the past, I've done a few routes here on a few different visits to the crag, which looks so unappealing and black (as its name suggests) from the road. The left-side of the crag is particularly bad - the routes feel a tad disconcerting although the climbing is often fairly easy and the pocketed, juggy rock is actually excellent. Still, I had no great desire to lead Zig Zag, which Vic did in a single pitch. Sadly, he didn't reach the top so I had to climb to the first ledge to allow him to belay - all on instinct, we couldn't hear each other. Good juggy rock leads to a short groove and steep move to gain a vague diagonal ramp which leads to a wet and insecure section even after a long dry period. Easy climbing throughout and a worthwhile outing. Rift Wall is a better route, which nudges classic status and has three unusually varied pitches with interesting climbing throughout. I led the first, up a pocketed wall to a ledge, then a steep move up a shorter wall to gain a big flake and a traverse line leading back right. This is harder than it looks, but gives good, steady climbing - steep in places with the wall impending above - to gain a pinnacle and then a hidden slab further up on the right. The crux comes immediately afterwards, and Vic took this second pitch. A steep corner crack is tackled by tricky bridging moves to a high side pull, then better holds and fun, juggy climbing. It ends abruptly at a slab, after which the entire route eases (fortunately, as it was now raining - the end of the dry spell). The route ends with an exposed traverse left round an arete on huge flakey holds. The rain became steadier as we descended, so we called it a day, happy to tick off two rarely-in-condition minor Snowdonian classics.
Wednesday, May 23, 2018
Llanberis Slate climbing
Crag: Australia, Llanberis Slate
Routes: Cyber World Slate Heads (f6a+:led), Unnamed route (f5c:sec), Steps of Glory (f5:sec), Plastic Soldier (f6a:led)
An opportunity to stay at the perfectly located Vagabond's hut above Nant Peris, and glorious conditions as we arrived mid-afternoon. The hut is at the foot of Elidir Fawr and a lovely walk leads up to the slate quarries from its front door, through a notch to Twll Mawr. Slate was the obvious choice given the lateness of the hour, and we climbed up to the Sidings, quite high up in the spectacular bowl of Australia, somewhere I have climbed a lot, and one of my favourite spots in the quarries with its views across to Eilio and Snowdon. The 6a+ groove of Cyber World has a hard start. I borrowed a clip stick for the first bolt, then tenuous bridging and smearing leads eventually to a good hold. I may have taken an overly pure approach to the groove, as the right wall is easier. Bigger holds then lead up to the strenuous roof, unusual for slate, with excellent moves right to gain the steep arete: simultaneously balancey and strenuous. I also did the obvious line further right up the blunt arete to the same lower-off, as well as the easy f5 up the stepped ledges (done before). All four of us then walked up to the Skyline buttress. Vic led the f6a on the right, while I took Plastic Soldier immediately left. Simultaneously climbing at the same pace, both belayed by a different Steve: a recipe for confusion! I've done these routes before, they are excellent long pitches, 40 metres, well bolted, with delicate and elegant climbing in a wonderful location at the top of the quarries. The sun was setting over Anglesey as I topped out - only to find that I'd forgotten the belay plate! A memorable walk down as the sun dipped towards the Irish Sea, beautiful colours, with Crib Goch a deep orange as we arrived back at the hut.
Routes: Cyber World Slate Heads (f6a+:led), Unnamed route (f5c:sec), Steps of Glory (f5:sec), Plastic Soldier (f6a:led)
An opportunity to stay at the perfectly located Vagabond's hut above Nant Peris, and glorious conditions as we arrived mid-afternoon. The hut is at the foot of Elidir Fawr and a lovely walk leads up to the slate quarries from its front door, through a notch to Twll Mawr. Slate was the obvious choice given the lateness of the hour, and we climbed up to the Sidings, quite high up in the spectacular bowl of Australia, somewhere I have climbed a lot, and one of my favourite spots in the quarries with its views across to Eilio and Snowdon. The 6a+ groove of Cyber World has a hard start. I borrowed a clip stick for the first bolt, then tenuous bridging and smearing leads eventually to a good hold. I may have taken an overly pure approach to the groove, as the right wall is easier. Bigger holds then lead up to the strenuous roof, unusual for slate, with excellent moves right to gain the steep arete: simultaneously balancey and strenuous. I also did the obvious line further right up the blunt arete to the same lower-off, as well as the easy f5 up the stepped ledges (done before). All four of us then walked up to the Skyline buttress. Vic led the f6a on the right, while I took Plastic Soldier immediately left. Simultaneously climbing at the same pace, both belayed by a different Steve: a recipe for confusion! I've done these routes before, they are excellent long pitches, 40 metres, well bolted, with delicate and elegant climbing in a wonderful location at the top of the quarries. The sun was setting over Anglesey as I topped out - only to find that I'd forgotten the belay plate! A memorable walk down as the sun dipped towards the Irish Sea, beautiful colours, with Crib Goch a deep orange as we arrived back at the hut.
Sunday, May 20, 2018
Lucca run
Hard to imagine a more pleasant urban run than this. We were staying in the wonderful Tuscan town of Lucca for three nights, and it just happens to be encircled by 4.2km of perfectly preserved rennaissance walls. This was ideal for running, and scores of runners and cyclists were out enjoying the beautiful early morning weather as I set off on the second morning. I did the same route on Saturday morning: a mile warm-up from the hotel to the walls, then the loop, and then back to resume our exploration of Tuscan food culture. Today, I gave the walls a proper blast, and completed the entire 4.2km loop in 16 minutes - not too shabby considering my lack of speed at present. Then, it was off to the train station for a day trip through the hills to Florence, refuelling on tripe and lampreddotto.
Tuesday, May 15, 2018
Frogsmouth climbing
Crag: Frogsmouth Quarry, Runcorn
Routes: Green Slab (f4:led), Trilogy (f4+:led), Just After Fifty (f6a:led*), Just After Fifty (f6a:sec)
Climbing in Runcorn: I never thought I would see the day. This, however, is an unexpected and interesting venue - perhaps even unique as a bolted sandstone crag. It becomes obvious quite quickly that the routes are sandbags, uncompromising and meanly graded. The 6a's feel more like 6c's, or that was my impression on this very brief reccie. We kicked off on the easy slab furthest right, a secluded locale which gives a couple of warm-ups, even those are on rounded rock. The quarry itself is tree-lined, sheltered, and surprisingly pleasant as an evening venue in warm sunshine: not the urban horror show I'd expected. The steep side wall with sculpted features was steep and harder than it looks. I led Just After Fifty, with a hard and dynamic start, lunging for side pulls until a frieze of jugs and pockets is reached. The route doesn't relent, though, and steepens again to a flat hold with a steep finish. I rested a couple of times, briefly, on the lead: it felt more like 6b or even 6b+ to me, although the routes do have quite precise sequences and it may be that I'd missed the solutions. I did it again cleanly with rope above before we finished: my second time on sandstone in as many days, very unusual for me as this has never been my favourite style of climbing.
Routes: Green Slab (f4:led), Trilogy (f4+:led), Just After Fifty (f6a:led*), Just After Fifty (f6a:sec)
Climbing in Runcorn: I never thought I would see the day. This, however, is an unexpected and interesting venue - perhaps even unique as a bolted sandstone crag. It becomes obvious quite quickly that the routes are sandbags, uncompromising and meanly graded. The 6a's feel more like 6c's, or that was my impression on this very brief reccie. We kicked off on the easy slab furthest right, a secluded locale which gives a couple of warm-ups, even those are on rounded rock. The quarry itself is tree-lined, sheltered, and surprisingly pleasant as an evening venue in warm sunshine: not the urban horror show I'd expected. The steep side wall with sculpted features was steep and harder than it looks. I led Just After Fifty, with a hard and dynamic start, lunging for side pulls until a frieze of jugs and pockets is reached. The route doesn't relent, though, and steepens again to a flat hold with a steep finish. I rested a couple of times, briefly, on the lead: it felt more like 6b or even 6b+ to me, although the routes do have quite precise sequences and it may be that I'd missed the solutions. I did it again cleanly with rope above before we finished: my second time on sandstone in as many days, very unusual for me as this has never been my favourite style of climbing.
Monday, May 14, 2018
Helsby climbing
Crag: Helsby, Cheshire
Routes: Wood's Climb (HVS 5a:sh), Wafer Wall (E2 5b:sh), Crack of Doom (S:sh), Little Light (MS:sh)
Another venue I visit only occasionally - intermittent visits going back to an early solo of Grooved Slab 27 years ago. It is an acquired taste which I have never quite acquired, and this short afternoon trip saw me shunt a few routes I haven't done before. Wood's Climb was the most notable, a minor classic of the area. This needs good conditions, but was still green, a bit dirty and insecure today despite the sunshine. As a result, the early crux moves over the first bulge felt hard on a loose shunt - shallow pockets for the feet, awkward side pulls, easier when tackled from the left. Above, the groove is easier but quite delicate initially until better holds on the left wall lead to the top. On the lower tier, Wafer Wall was also a bit green but gave lovely climbing on the shunt, delicate and balancy on tiny edges and pockets. The Crack of Doom is a horrible slimy thrutch up an off-width crack, grade irrelevant, and Little Light a more pleasant micro-route to the left. Finished with a jog round Helsby quarry, still a bit tired after Saturday.
Routes: Wood's Climb (HVS 5a:sh), Wafer Wall (E2 5b:sh), Crack of Doom (S:sh), Little Light (MS:sh)
Another venue I visit only occasionally - intermittent visits going back to an early solo of Grooved Slab 27 years ago. It is an acquired taste which I have never quite acquired, and this short afternoon trip saw me shunt a few routes I haven't done before. Wood's Climb was the most notable, a minor classic of the area. This needs good conditions, but was still green, a bit dirty and insecure today despite the sunshine. As a result, the early crux moves over the first bulge felt hard on a loose shunt - shallow pockets for the feet, awkward side pulls, easier when tackled from the left. Above, the groove is easier but quite delicate initially until better holds on the left wall lead to the top. On the lower tier, Wafer Wall was also a bit green but gave lovely climbing on the shunt, delicate and balancy on tiny edges and pockets. The Crack of Doom is a horrible slimy thrutch up an off-width crack, grade irrelevant, and Little Light a more pleasant micro-route to the left. Finished with a jog round Helsby quarry, still a bit tired after Saturday.
Saturday, May 12, 2018
Sandstone Trail challenge
Race: Sandstone Trail Ultra (34m/55k)
Time/Position: 5.08 (5th from 193)
There is always something particularly satisfying about a point-to-point race, and this famous route works really well as an informal short ultra: in essence, a south-north traverse of the whole of Cheshire, from Whitchurch over the Shropshire border to Frodsham in the far north of the county. I ran the better known short (17m) Sandstone race way back in 2008, but have wanted to do this event since it was revived in 2011. Given the emphasis I've placed on distance this year, the Sandstone was an essential addition (as the third ultra of five planned for 2018) and I got a place just after entries opened back in December (it sells out in a few hours). An early start from Frodsham and a bus to the start in the centre of Whitchurch in perfect May running weather - crystal clear and cool - was a nice beginning. The route starts along the Shropshire Union canal, a gentle warm-up and much more interesting than I'd expected it to be, past little pubs and pastoral scenery with birdsong in the early morning: all immensely tranquil and relaxed, a far cry from the usual frenetic road and fell racing. It then heads north away from the canal over endless fields towards the first CP at Bickleywood. I was easing into the race nicely, and picked the pace up for the next long section over fields to Hampton Heath with Larkton Hill in front, indicating a change of tone where the race loops past Maiden Castle and the scenery picks up. Excellent running over the escarpment of Bickerton Hill, above the crag where I bouldered this time last year - big views west to the Clwydians. This whole section is a delight, with wooded sections leading to unexpected views then ridgetop running before plunging back into woodland again. After CP2, the route curves round to take in the Peckforton Hills above Burwardsley before heading towards the prominent Beeston Tor. I remembered this section from the 'other' race, and it marked the half way point. I was still feeling pretty good, which was just as well as a long, flatter section follows - west of Tarporley heading north to Kelsall and eventually Delamere. I began to catch some of the runners who'd past me earlier on. I was pretty sure that Jez and three others would stay clear (well clear!) but I eventually found myself in front of the rest with one other chap who knew the route through Delamere well (although it is actually better marked now than it used to be - I had been a bit concerned about making minor errors here). From the exit at Manley Common (CP5) I knew the route very well - along the B5393 to cut north across a series of fields with views to the industry of the Mersey marking the natural conclusion of the trail. I use the final section above the Frodsham crags to the monument as a training run on my way home from Warrington, so with no concerns about the route I turned on the afterburners to secure fifth position. From the monument, I decided to get the pain of the final descent over with as quickly as possible, the scent of pie and peas in my nostrils! A good fell race-style plunge through the woods and into the tarmac of town, arriving at the Frodsham community centre in a reasonable 5.08. The third ultra of the year for me, and the most enjoyable yet: it reminded me of the two ultras I've done in previous years, the Laugavegur and the Manx, in that all are point-to-point events with a clear sense of purpose and direction.
Time/Position: 5.08 (5th from 193)
There is always something particularly satisfying about a point-to-point race, and this famous route works really well as an informal short ultra: in essence, a south-north traverse of the whole of Cheshire, from Whitchurch over the Shropshire border to Frodsham in the far north of the county. I ran the better known short (17m) Sandstone race way back in 2008, but have wanted to do this event since it was revived in 2011. Given the emphasis I've placed on distance this year, the Sandstone was an essential addition (as the third ultra of five planned for 2018) and I got a place just after entries opened back in December (it sells out in a few hours). An early start from Frodsham and a bus to the start in the centre of Whitchurch in perfect May running weather - crystal clear and cool - was a nice beginning. The route starts along the Shropshire Union canal, a gentle warm-up and much more interesting than I'd expected it to be, past little pubs and pastoral scenery with birdsong in the early morning: all immensely tranquil and relaxed, a far cry from the usual frenetic road and fell racing. It then heads north away from the canal over endless fields towards the first CP at Bickleywood. I was easing into the race nicely, and picked the pace up for the next long section over fields to Hampton Heath with Larkton Hill in front, indicating a change of tone where the race loops past Maiden Castle and the scenery picks up. Excellent running over the escarpment of Bickerton Hill, above the crag where I bouldered this time last year - big views west to the Clwydians. This whole section is a delight, with wooded sections leading to unexpected views then ridgetop running before plunging back into woodland again. After CP2, the route curves round to take in the Peckforton Hills above Burwardsley before heading towards the prominent Beeston Tor. I remembered this section from the 'other' race, and it marked the half way point. I was still feeling pretty good, which was just as well as a long, flatter section follows - west of Tarporley heading north to Kelsall and eventually Delamere. I began to catch some of the runners who'd past me earlier on. I was pretty sure that Jez and three others would stay clear (well clear!) but I eventually found myself in front of the rest with one other chap who knew the route through Delamere well (although it is actually better marked now than it used to be - I had been a bit concerned about making minor errors here). From the exit at Manley Common (CP5) I knew the route very well - along the B5393 to cut north across a series of fields with views to the industry of the Mersey marking the natural conclusion of the trail. I use the final section above the Frodsham crags to the monument as a training run on my way home from Warrington, so with no concerns about the route I turned on the afterburners to secure fifth position. From the monument, I decided to get the pain of the final descent over with as quickly as possible, the scent of pie and peas in my nostrils! A good fell race-style plunge through the woods and into the tarmac of town, arriving at the Frodsham community centre in a reasonable 5.08. The third ultra of the year for me, and the most enjoyable yet: it reminded me of the two ultras I've done in previous years, the Laugavegur and the Manx, in that all are point-to-point events with a clear sense of purpose and direction.
Thursday, May 10, 2018
Craig y Forwyn climbing
Crag: Craig y Forwyn, Llysfaen
Routes: Route 66 (VS 4c:sec), Duchess (HVS 5a:sec), Heart Attack (HS 4b:led), Plas Newydd Groove (VS 4b:led)
Back again to the 'banned crag', our third visit spread over nine years, since limited access was supposedly granted (the crag has famously been banned since I started climbing in the late 80s). We kept it strictly 'legal', parking in the correct place and heading down to the right-hand side where Vic led the easy VS of Route 66 which is a nice route up a corner to a traverse which gains an obvious open (and vegetated) corner to the top. We did this in 2009, but were then shouted down from a neighbouring route despite the fact that this section has free access. No such problems this time, so we did the excellent Duchess. This gives straightforward low-end HVS climbing up the slabby face left of Route 66. The initial crack gives great moves on big holds to an airy traverse right, which gains a superb pocketed wall diagonally left to an easy finish up a broken groove. Good climb, particularly by the standards of UK trad limestone. We then moved across to the left-hand, shorter and less impressive. We visited here a few years ago and ticked the best routes. This time, I filled in two gaps at around the same grade, both following corner/groove lines. The HS involves a thrutchy back-and-foot corner to an easy pull round a bulge. The groove, further right, is a tad harder, up a corner to another bulge and continuation groove. Both routes nicely sustained at a gentle standard, although both required some excavation to find the best placements: they really do need more traffic.
Routes: Route 66 (VS 4c:sec), Duchess (HVS 5a:sec), Heart Attack (HS 4b:led), Plas Newydd Groove (VS 4b:led)
Back again to the 'banned crag', our third visit spread over nine years, since limited access was supposedly granted (the crag has famously been banned since I started climbing in the late 80s). We kept it strictly 'legal', parking in the correct place and heading down to the right-hand side where Vic led the easy VS of Route 66 which is a nice route up a corner to a traverse which gains an obvious open (and vegetated) corner to the top. We did this in 2009, but were then shouted down from a neighbouring route despite the fact that this section has free access. No such problems this time, so we did the excellent Duchess. This gives straightforward low-end HVS climbing up the slabby face left of Route 66. The initial crack gives great moves on big holds to an airy traverse right, which gains a superb pocketed wall diagonally left to an easy finish up a broken groove. Good climb, particularly by the standards of UK trad limestone. We then moved across to the left-hand, shorter and less impressive. We visited here a few years ago and ticked the best routes. This time, I filled in two gaps at around the same grade, both following corner/groove lines. The HS involves a thrutchy back-and-foot corner to an easy pull round a bulge. The groove, further right, is a tad harder, up a corner to another bulge and continuation groove. Both routes nicely sustained at a gentle standard, although both required some excavation to find the best placements: they really do need more traffic.
Monday, May 07, 2018
Penmaenbach climbing
Crag: Penmaenbach, Conwy
Routes: Jack the Jeffer (f6a+:led), A55 Hole Arete (f5:sec), A55 Crack (f6b+:led*), Kiss my A55 Slab (f6c:sec), A55 Crack (f6b+:sec), Y Clip Aur (f5c:sec), Agent Orange (f5c:led), Big A55 Arete (f6a+:sec)
One of the finest evening venues on the coast, with its distinctive red diorite glowing as the sun sets in the west. I've been here four or five times before, but never at this time of day, when it is undoubtedly at its best. It all meant a glorious few hours climbing, mostly on routes I've done before. Jack the Jeffer was an exception though, a new route taking the smooth slab left of the arete. Easy climbing leads to a nice thin slab with some delicate moves to gain an easier finish: overgraded, as is often the case with slate-style routes like this. Vic led the easy arete, then I had a bash at the 6b+ crack which I've failed on before. I failed on it again initially, but this time I did manage to dog my way up the hard section where the crack steepens. It is very awkward taken direct, small holds sloping the wrong way, although I eventually got my feet high enough to go for a more positive hold and got to the lower-off. Later, I did it entirely clean with rope above: climbing from the left allows for the awkward slopers to be used more effectively. We also did the f6c slab, at our technical limits. This goes easily into the corner, where thin moves up a closed crack with nothing for the feet eventually allow for a lunge to gain a horizontal crack on the wall above. A highly tenuous traverse follows: good climbing. After these big numbers, not ideal in the heat (it has been a hot and sunny bank holiday) we retreated further left where we did two routes I've done before - Agent Orange is particularly pleasant up a steepish wall on good holds, and the arete is enjoyable too. Still tired after yesterday's race, so this was more than enough for one weekend.
Routes: Jack the Jeffer (f6a+:led), A55 Hole Arete (f5:sec), A55 Crack (f6b+:led*), Kiss my A55 Slab (f6c:sec), A55 Crack (f6b+:sec), Y Clip Aur (f5c:sec), Agent Orange (f5c:led), Big A55 Arete (f6a+:sec)
One of the finest evening venues on the coast, with its distinctive red diorite glowing as the sun sets in the west. I've been here four or five times before, but never at this time of day, when it is undoubtedly at its best. It all meant a glorious few hours climbing, mostly on routes I've done before. Jack the Jeffer was an exception though, a new route taking the smooth slab left of the arete. Easy climbing leads to a nice thin slab with some delicate moves to gain an easier finish: overgraded, as is often the case with slate-style routes like this. Vic led the easy arete, then I had a bash at the 6b+ crack which I've failed on before. I failed on it again initially, but this time I did manage to dog my way up the hard section where the crack steepens. It is very awkward taken direct, small holds sloping the wrong way, although I eventually got my feet high enough to go for a more positive hold and got to the lower-off. Later, I did it entirely clean with rope above: climbing from the left allows for the awkward slopers to be used more effectively. We also did the f6c slab, at our technical limits. This goes easily into the corner, where thin moves up a closed crack with nothing for the feet eventually allow for a lunge to gain a horizontal crack on the wall above. A highly tenuous traverse follows: good climbing. After these big numbers, not ideal in the heat (it has been a hot and sunny bank holiday) we retreated further left where we did two routes I've done before - Agent Orange is particularly pleasant up a steepish wall on good holds, and the arete is enjoyable too. Still tired after yesterday's race, so this was more than enough for one weekend.
Sunday, May 06, 2018
South Mynd Tour
Race: South Mynd Tour (14.6m/3800ft/AL)
Time/Position: 2.40.31 (10th from 40)
No plans to race this weekend, with the Sandstone Trail rapidly approaching, but Vic was heading down to Shropshire for this new event and it seemed ideal as a moderately long run two weeks after London. The weather was absolutely glorious, and I always enjoy my occasional trips to races across the Shropshire Hills. I've only done the classics like Long Mynd Valleys, Stretton Skyline and Cardington Cracker: but this race deliberately takes in the more obscure terrain south of the Long Mynd, with considerable route choice in places. As such, as well as the fact that I dialled my pace down deliberately with a view to next week's ultra, this was a tremendously enjoyable outing. We arrived in Little Stretton as the race was starting (!) having been delayed by traffic, but they kindly halted things as we got ready. The start sees runners heading in both directions to the top of Callow, the first checkpoint. I went up Ashes Hollow then cut left for the steep climb. I was third over the top but there were already five runners in front who'd taken the other route! From here, lovely running heading south on tracks and paths, crossing numerous side valleys, with a steep final descent towards Minton. All very scenic, as ever in these parts. From here, the route was marked for a long, runnable and very hot section up to the conifer forest above Priors Holt. This was probably the toughest part of the race and I was beginning to dehydrate. We emerged from the forest to take a long open descent towards the far south of the range, turning on to the last part of the ridge before a steep descent to Myndtown, a long way from Little Stretton. I lost contact with the two runners I'd been with at this point, and stopped for a welcome drink at this checkpoint. Above loomed the desperately steep Asterton Bank, which I cycled in 2014 and considered harder than the Col de Madeleine done in the same year! We moved back on to the ridge before that, though, following the Shropshire way back to the forest before a long leg with tricky nav up to the gliding club, then down west again to Prolley Moor. A final climb up Stanbatch and then it was the gentle ascent to the highpoint at Pole Bank. The final descent offered up another major route decision: I went for a compromise, probably unwisely, pelting down the ridge to Narnell's Rock before plunging steeply into the delightful Ashes Hollow, which I always enjoy. It was probably quicker to follow the ridge, but it didn't matter: the valley is so pretty and I thoroughly enjoyed the run in back to the finish at Little Stretton. I then enjoyed 20 minutes of relaxation in the most perfect imaginable May weather, bathing in the stream then lying on a knoll further up Ashes Hollow, before Vic, Steve and Emma crossed the finish line and we had a sunny pint in the Ragleth Inn.
Time/Position: 2.40.31 (10th from 40)
No plans to race this weekend, with the Sandstone Trail rapidly approaching, but Vic was heading down to Shropshire for this new event and it seemed ideal as a moderately long run two weeks after London. The weather was absolutely glorious, and I always enjoy my occasional trips to races across the Shropshire Hills. I've only done the classics like Long Mynd Valleys, Stretton Skyline and Cardington Cracker: but this race deliberately takes in the more obscure terrain south of the Long Mynd, with considerable route choice in places. As such, as well as the fact that I dialled my pace down deliberately with a view to next week's ultra, this was a tremendously enjoyable outing. We arrived in Little Stretton as the race was starting (!) having been delayed by traffic, but they kindly halted things as we got ready. The start sees runners heading in both directions to the top of Callow, the first checkpoint. I went up Ashes Hollow then cut left for the steep climb. I was third over the top but there were already five runners in front who'd taken the other route! From here, lovely running heading south on tracks and paths, crossing numerous side valleys, with a steep final descent towards Minton. All very scenic, as ever in these parts. From here, the route was marked for a long, runnable and very hot section up to the conifer forest above Priors Holt. This was probably the toughest part of the race and I was beginning to dehydrate. We emerged from the forest to take a long open descent towards the far south of the range, turning on to the last part of the ridge before a steep descent to Myndtown, a long way from Little Stretton. I lost contact with the two runners I'd been with at this point, and stopped for a welcome drink at this checkpoint. Above loomed the desperately steep Asterton Bank, which I cycled in 2014 and considered harder than the Col de Madeleine done in the same year! We moved back on to the ridge before that, though, following the Shropshire way back to the forest before a long leg with tricky nav up to the gliding club, then down west again to Prolley Moor. A final climb up Stanbatch and then it was the gentle ascent to the highpoint at Pole Bank. The final descent offered up another major route decision: I went for a compromise, probably unwisely, pelting down the ridge to Narnell's Rock before plunging steeply into the delightful Ashes Hollow, which I always enjoy. It was probably quicker to follow the ridge, but it didn't matter: the valley is so pretty and I thoroughly enjoyed the run in back to the finish at Little Stretton. I then enjoyed 20 minutes of relaxation in the most perfect imaginable May weather, bathing in the stream then lying on a knoll further up Ashes Hollow, before Vic, Steve and Emma crossed the finish line and we had a sunny pint in the Ragleth Inn.
Friday, May 04, 2018
Orme climbing
Crag: Pen Trwyn, Llandudno
Routes: Reading Henry by the Road (f6a+:led), Years of Abuse (f6b+*:sec), Frontiers of Reality (f6a+:led), Absolute Beginners (E2 5c:sec)
Crag: Castle Inn Quarry
Routes: Comeback Kid (f4:sec), Mynydd Marian variant (VS 4c:sec), Indian Summer (f6a+:led), Mynydd Marian (VS 4c:sec), School Mam (f6a:led), Cakewalk Direct (f6b+:sec)
With a little more strength at my disposal than usual, we headed to the Orme for a quick session at the 'End of the Road' as the Bank Holiday crowds began to build. As always, Pen Trwyn packs a punch on even the easiest of routes, which are invariably harder than they look. The 6a+ at the right hand side had a patch of seepage, which didn't help, and my foot slipped off for the obvious crux move over a bulge. A good sidepull is a bit too low, so a hard move to an obvious flat hold is needed. I weighted the bolt, then did it again further right. Good rock, as is the 6b+ to its left, which I found desperate - a series of lunges to tiny calcite pinch holds until, eventually a horizontal hold is gained at the break. Further left is the Small Bore area, another short section of good rock right next to the road. Frontiers of Reality is not quite the route its rather pretentious name suggests - a smooth pocketed groove leads to a hard crux moving left past the second bolt on tenuous smears and bridging moves. Then, a steeper finish on good rock with good holds. To its left, an old trad route with an awkward bulging start to easier climbing up a curving crack. I then failed right at the top of another 6b, before calling a halt to the steepness and retreating to Castle Inn so Steve could do something. Glorious evening sunshine now, at last spring was arriving in time for the Bank Holiday. Warm rock as we romped up a few old favourites, as well as the crackline of Mynydd Marian, which I had no memory of doing before. Both School Mam and Cakewalk Direct were glorious in the sunshine - I've done both numerous times before but they now feel massively overgraded, possibly because extra bolts have been added. I would say School Mam is no more than f5.
Routes: Reading Henry by the Road (f6a+:led), Years of Abuse (f6b+*:sec), Frontiers of Reality (f6a+:led), Absolute Beginners (E2 5c:sec)
Crag: Castle Inn Quarry
Routes: Comeback Kid (f4:sec), Mynydd Marian variant (VS 4c:sec), Indian Summer (f6a+:led), Mynydd Marian (VS 4c:sec), School Mam (f6a:led), Cakewalk Direct (f6b+:sec)
With a little more strength at my disposal than usual, we headed to the Orme for a quick session at the 'End of the Road' as the Bank Holiday crowds began to build. As always, Pen Trwyn packs a punch on even the easiest of routes, which are invariably harder than they look. The 6a+ at the right hand side had a patch of seepage, which didn't help, and my foot slipped off for the obvious crux move over a bulge. A good sidepull is a bit too low, so a hard move to an obvious flat hold is needed. I weighted the bolt, then did it again further right. Good rock, as is the 6b+ to its left, which I found desperate - a series of lunges to tiny calcite pinch holds until, eventually a horizontal hold is gained at the break. Further left is the Small Bore area, another short section of good rock right next to the road. Frontiers of Reality is not quite the route its rather pretentious name suggests - a smooth pocketed groove leads to a hard crux moving left past the second bolt on tenuous smears and bridging moves. Then, a steeper finish on good rock with good holds. To its left, an old trad route with an awkward bulging start to easier climbing up a curving crack. I then failed right at the top of another 6b, before calling a halt to the steepness and retreating to Castle Inn so Steve could do something. Glorious evening sunshine now, at last spring was arriving in time for the Bank Holiday. Warm rock as we romped up a few old favourites, as well as the crackline of Mynydd Marian, which I had no memory of doing before. Both School Mam and Cakewalk Direct were glorious in the sunshine - I've done both numerous times before but they now feel massively overgraded, possibly because extra bolts have been added. I would say School Mam is no more than f5.
Monday, April 30, 2018
Trevor climbing
Crag: Trevor, Eglwyseg
Routes: Deputy Dog (f4c:sec), Dogmatic (f6a:led), Long Legged Lizard from Liverpool (f6a:led), Hornier Toad (f6b:sec), K9 (f5a:sec), Dogs of War (f6a+:sec), Chocolate Fudd (f6a+:led*), Chocolate Fudd (f6a+:sec), Betty Bop Rides Again (VS 4c:sec), Elmer J Fudd (VS 4b:led), The Fuddites (f6b:sec)
Yet another trip to this most scruffy of crags: too many recent visits. It is convenient, though, and worked for training purposes on this short outing. Steve led an easy route, and I followed up with Dogmatic, up a dirty groove at 6a. I was trying to tick the few routes I haven't done before and almost all are characterised by short, hard cruxes: the French grading system doesn't really work at this scruffy venue. Most of the shorter routes are not sustained, but have tough, usually polished cruxes. I led the easy 6a up the slab, done before, and then did Hornier Toad - hard moves above the bulge on a tiny side pull. Two more short ones, then Chocolate Fudd at 6a+. This is better, rough and textured rock, and quite sustained. Small holds lead to the arete, then moves left to clip the final bolt and a dynamic finish, quite hard for the grade. I briefly weighted the bolt: so did it again from the bottom clean. After failing on The Fuddites at 6b, I led Elmer Fudd on trad gear (an easy VS), then did it clean - a fierce pull on a mono leads to a flat hold and easier finish. Finished with a jog over the viaduct.
Routes: Deputy Dog (f4c:sec), Dogmatic (f6a:led), Long Legged Lizard from Liverpool (f6a:led), Hornier Toad (f6b:sec), K9 (f5a:sec), Dogs of War (f6a+:sec), Chocolate Fudd (f6a+:led*), Chocolate Fudd (f6a+:sec), Betty Bop Rides Again (VS 4c:sec), Elmer J Fudd (VS 4b:led), The Fuddites (f6b:sec)
Yet another trip to this most scruffy of crags: too many recent visits. It is convenient, though, and worked for training purposes on this short outing. Steve led an easy route, and I followed up with Dogmatic, up a dirty groove at 6a. I was trying to tick the few routes I haven't done before and almost all are characterised by short, hard cruxes: the French grading system doesn't really work at this scruffy venue. Most of the shorter routes are not sustained, but have tough, usually polished cruxes. I led the easy 6a up the slab, done before, and then did Hornier Toad - hard moves above the bulge on a tiny side pull. Two more short ones, then Chocolate Fudd at 6a+. This is better, rough and textured rock, and quite sustained. Small holds lead to the arete, then moves left to clip the final bolt and a dynamic finish, quite hard for the grade. I briefly weighted the bolt: so did it again from the bottom clean. After failing on The Fuddites at 6b, I led Elmer Fudd on trad gear (an easy VS), then did it clean - a fierce pull on a mono leads to a flat hold and easier finish. Finished with a jog over the viaduct.
Thursday, April 26, 2018
Holyhead Mountain climbing
Crag: Holyhead Mountain
Routes: The Wandering Primrose (S 4a:led), Stairs (S 4a:sec), Teenage Kicks (S 4a:led), Laceration (VS 5a:sec), Sump Direct (HS 4b:led), Andover (VS 5a:sec), Tempest (S 4a:led), Tension (VS 4b:sec)
Always an ideal venue for an early season shakedown, with its varied routes and friendly aspect. We just concentrated on mileage on this short, late visit, with the weather less-than-ideal yet again (ironically, the London marathon weekend was by far the hottest of the year so far). It was cold and very windy as I led the Wandering Primrose, which takes a slab to an overlap with a delicate step to gain a spike. Then easy climbing up nice pocketed rock to the freezing top. After Vic led Stairs, I took the arete to its right (as ever, I was trying to tick routes I hadn't done before). Teenage Kicks starts up the gully before pulling onto the arete which gives nice airy climbing to join the upper Stairs slab. I've done Laceration before, a pleasant VS, and followed this with Sump Direct. I don't think I've done this before: a nice juggy corner leads to a vague and easy ramp, before a steep and slightly thrutchy finishing chimney (not ideal with a right elbow entirely skinned after my marathon fall, raw flesh scraping rock). Nice route, varied: light rain throughout, but it cleared to blue sunshine as we moved across to the Quartz Wall and Vic led Andover. This is a fine pitch, new to me, steep but superbly juggy, as with most of the routes on this wall. An overlap after 10m is taken on wonderful quartzy holds and the rest stays interesting. On the way down, I spied the attractive groove taken by Tempest and nipped up it: a short but worthwhile Severe and a very obvious line with a steep finish. Finally, as more cool weather moved in, Vic led the old favourite Tension, which I've led in the past: a delightful VS which looks tricky but is actually delightfully simple from start to finish, superbly positive holds throughout.
Routes: The Wandering Primrose (S 4a:led), Stairs (S 4a:sec), Teenage Kicks (S 4a:led), Laceration (VS 5a:sec), Sump Direct (HS 4b:led), Andover (VS 5a:sec), Tempest (S 4a:led), Tension (VS 4b:sec)
Always an ideal venue for an early season shakedown, with its varied routes and friendly aspect. We just concentrated on mileage on this short, late visit, with the weather less-than-ideal yet again (ironically, the London marathon weekend was by far the hottest of the year so far). It was cold and very windy as I led the Wandering Primrose, which takes a slab to an overlap with a delicate step to gain a spike. Then easy climbing up nice pocketed rock to the freezing top. After Vic led Stairs, I took the arete to its right (as ever, I was trying to tick routes I hadn't done before). Teenage Kicks starts up the gully before pulling onto the arete which gives nice airy climbing to join the upper Stairs slab. I've done Laceration before, a pleasant VS, and followed this with Sump Direct. I don't think I've done this before: a nice juggy corner leads to a vague and easy ramp, before a steep and slightly thrutchy finishing chimney (not ideal with a right elbow entirely skinned after my marathon fall, raw flesh scraping rock). Nice route, varied: light rain throughout, but it cleared to blue sunshine as we moved across to the Quartz Wall and Vic led Andover. This is a fine pitch, new to me, steep but superbly juggy, as with most of the routes on this wall. An overlap after 10m is taken on wonderful quartzy holds and the rest stays interesting. On the way down, I spied the attractive groove taken by Tempest and nipped up it: a short but worthwhile Severe and a very obvious line with a steep finish. Finally, as more cool weather moved in, Vic led the old favourite Tension, which I've led in the past: a delightful VS which looks tricky but is actually delightfully simple from start to finish, superbly positive holds throughout.
Wednesday, April 25, 2018
Deeside border league
Race: Deeside 4.6m (Border League race 6)
Time/Position: 27.17 (52nd from 322)
Probably the fourth or fifth time I've done the final border league fixture three days after London. It is never pleasant, but at least this time it didn't count for anything for me (unlike 2016, when it all came down to the last race in Prestatyn). However, Buckley were going for the league title, for only the second time since I've been a member (2006 was the last time I think), along with the Veterans title again. But, in the event, I didn't even score for the team: first time that's happened as far as I can remember. It seemed like I was maintaining a decent speed, in a group with familiar faces, but the reality was that I was well down the field and recorded my lowest finishing position for at least a decade.
Time/Position: 27.17 (52nd from 322)
Probably the fourth or fifth time I've done the final border league fixture three days after London. It is never pleasant, but at least this time it didn't count for anything for me (unlike 2016, when it all came down to the last race in Prestatyn). However, Buckley were going for the league title, for only the second time since I've been a member (2006 was the last time I think), along with the Veterans title again. But, in the event, I didn't even score for the team: first time that's happened as far as I can remember. It seemed like I was maintaining a decent speed, in a group with familiar faces, but the reality was that I was well down the field and recorded my lowest finishing position for at least a decade.
Sunday, April 22, 2018
London marathon
Race: London Marathon
Time/Position: 3.13.50 (2305th from 42000)
My slowest road marathon since 2007, coincidentally (or not!) the last 'hot' London marathon. Temperatures today climbed to 24c, so it wasn't ideal for fast times - but I still expected to do a little better, although I knew well in advance that I was nowhere near PB territory. The problem today was obvious - I have lots of distance in my legs from recent ultras but no speed - indeed, ultras just encourage you to walk at various points. So it wasn't a surprise to find myself struggling at the classic 17-18m point. To make matters worse, I was tripped from behind five miles in: skinned my elbow quite badly and felt like a wounded wildebeeste on the Serengeti as herds of ruthless good-for-age runners trampled past, preventing me from getting to my feet. After this slight shock, I went through half as planned in 1.28.48, nicely on course for my 6th sub-3 marathon, although I already knew that it was going to be tough in the heat, and was already struggling to maintain the pace from the 10 mile mark. I love the event, though, even when I struggle. This was my 8th running of the London marathon since my first in 2001 (and 21st road marathon): it is just such a tremendous route and such a privilege to be part of a major sporting event. The weather meant the crowds were better than ever, and particularly memorable in the usual places: Tower Bridge, the Embankment and the early stages around Cutty Sark. St John's Ambulance did a fine job of bandaging my bloodied arm in St James's Park: then it was back to Oakwood and straight into the car for the five hour drive home for a bath!
Time/Position: 3.13.50 (2305th from 42000)
My slowest road marathon since 2007, coincidentally (or not!) the last 'hot' London marathon. Temperatures today climbed to 24c, so it wasn't ideal for fast times - but I still expected to do a little better, although I knew well in advance that I was nowhere near PB territory. The problem today was obvious - I have lots of distance in my legs from recent ultras but no speed - indeed, ultras just encourage you to walk at various points. So it wasn't a surprise to find myself struggling at the classic 17-18m point. To make matters worse, I was tripped from behind five miles in: skinned my elbow quite badly and felt like a wounded wildebeeste on the Serengeti as herds of ruthless good-for-age runners trampled past, preventing me from getting to my feet. After this slight shock, I went through half as planned in 1.28.48, nicely on course for my 6th sub-3 marathon, although I already knew that it was going to be tough in the heat, and was already struggling to maintain the pace from the 10 mile mark. I love the event, though, even when I struggle. This was my 8th running of the London marathon since my first in 2001 (and 21st road marathon): it is just such a tremendous route and such a privilege to be part of a major sporting event. The weather meant the crowds were better than ever, and particularly memorable in the usual places: Tower Bridge, the Embankment and the early stages around Cutty Sark. St John's Ambulance did a fine job of bandaging my bloodied arm in St James's Park: then it was back to Oakwood and straight into the car for the five hour drive home for a bath!
Thursday, April 19, 2018
Meliden climbing
Crag: Meliden Quarry
Routes: Hodgson's Groove (f4+:led), Ward's Right Wall (f6b:led), Ward's Left Wall (f6b:sec), Shit No Holds (f6a+*:led), Between the Trees (D:sol), The Steps (D:sec), Grim Rapper (f4:des), First Redpoint (f4:sec)
Finally, a beautiful spring day, and what better place to spend it than a derelict quarry above Meliden? I have never bothered with this place before for good reason, but only had a couple of hours at my disposal as I'd been in work most of the day. So it seemed a good opportunity to tick off the few short routes. The 4+ groove is reasonable, and I then led the right-hand 6b: again, short, but technical climbing on very small but positive holds, with reasonable friction from the relatively unpolished limestone. The 6a+ takes an overhang at the finish, a sharp crux which I did with rope above not wanting to land on the ledge two days before the London marathon! I also did a couple of the easy trad routes, and the two easy routes on the far right. Hot and sunny throughout - the first time I've been in a t-shirt since Cuba.
Routes: Hodgson's Groove (f4+:led), Ward's Right Wall (f6b:led), Ward's Left Wall (f6b:sec), Shit No Holds (f6a+*:led), Between the Trees (D:sol), The Steps (D:sec), Grim Rapper (f4:des), First Redpoint (f4:sec)
Finally, a beautiful spring day, and what better place to spend it than a derelict quarry above Meliden? I have never bothered with this place before for good reason, but only had a couple of hours at my disposal as I'd been in work most of the day. So it seemed a good opportunity to tick off the few short routes. The 4+ groove is reasonable, and I then led the right-hand 6b: again, short, but technical climbing on very small but positive holds, with reasonable friction from the relatively unpolished limestone. The 6a+ takes an overhang at the finish, a sharp crux which I did with rope above not wanting to land on the ledge two days before the London marathon! I also did a couple of the easy trad routes, and the two easy routes on the far right. Hot and sunny throughout - the first time I've been in a t-shirt since Cuba.
Monday, April 16, 2018
Llanymynech climbing
Crag: Llanymynech
Routes: The Stringlers (f6b:led), Bah Bah Black Sheep (f6a+:led), Welcome to the Bay variant (f6a:led), Bay Leaf (f5c:sec), Culture Vulture (f5b:sec), Eau de Culture (f5c:led), Culture and Boutique (f6a:sec), No Name (f6a:led*), Culture Cryptic (f5b:sec)
We remembered the 70m rope but due to a mutual misunderstanding we forgot the 15 quickdraws necessary for this venue, only discovering the error at the car park. I'd been with Steve last year and been quite impressed with the Grid Iron wall, but the pitches are very long by the standards of UK sports climbing. Vic and I cobbled together 6 or 7 quickdraws, enough for just the smaller routes - rather annoying. I kicked off with The Stringlers, which takes a vague broken corner via a series of ledges and a couple of tricky moves with a steep crux at the top. Not very good, and not 6b - probably no more than 6a, although the final move over a bulge was hard. Vic backed off the fine 6a+ on the right of the crag: I led this last year and was glad to do so again, it is one of the best sports routes of its grade locally with a steep crux overlap and nice technical wall climbing above. It was getting windy, probably too windy for the bigger routes anyway, so we sought shelter at the Bay Wall over the Welsh border well away from the big walls on the 'Shropshire' side. This is a pretty dreadful crag, insecure and broken. It looks unappealing from below and is even worse in reality. I led a version of Welcome to the Bay, which ended up as a giant traverse, surprisingly long, with dirty and insecure climbing diagonally right up the wall, lowering off before the formal lower-off point which was in a dodgy looking rock scar. I retrieved the gear via the slightly better, more solid, and more logical shallow groove of Bay Leaf. The Cult wall, opposite, is better and more solid: Vic led the two routes at 5b that Steve and I did last year. I led a nice f5c up little positive edges (pulling a big hold off at one point) and we polished off all the routes as the sun finally came out providing some much needed warmth.
Routes: The Stringlers (f6b:led), Bah Bah Black Sheep (f6a+:led), Welcome to the Bay variant (f6a:led), Bay Leaf (f5c:sec), Culture Vulture (f5b:sec), Eau de Culture (f5c:led), Culture and Boutique (f6a:sec), No Name (f6a:led*), Culture Cryptic (f5b:sec)
We remembered the 70m rope but due to a mutual misunderstanding we forgot the 15 quickdraws necessary for this venue, only discovering the error at the car park. I'd been with Steve last year and been quite impressed with the Grid Iron wall, but the pitches are very long by the standards of UK sports climbing. Vic and I cobbled together 6 or 7 quickdraws, enough for just the smaller routes - rather annoying. I kicked off with The Stringlers, which takes a vague broken corner via a series of ledges and a couple of tricky moves with a steep crux at the top. Not very good, and not 6b - probably no more than 6a, although the final move over a bulge was hard. Vic backed off the fine 6a+ on the right of the crag: I led this last year and was glad to do so again, it is one of the best sports routes of its grade locally with a steep crux overlap and nice technical wall climbing above. It was getting windy, probably too windy for the bigger routes anyway, so we sought shelter at the Bay Wall over the Welsh border well away from the big walls on the 'Shropshire' side. This is a pretty dreadful crag, insecure and broken. It looks unappealing from below and is even worse in reality. I led a version of Welcome to the Bay, which ended up as a giant traverse, surprisingly long, with dirty and insecure climbing diagonally right up the wall, lowering off before the formal lower-off point which was in a dodgy looking rock scar. I retrieved the gear via the slightly better, more solid, and more logical shallow groove of Bay Leaf. The Cult wall, opposite, is better and more solid: Vic led the two routes at 5b that Steve and I did last year. I led a nice f5c up little positive edges (pulling a big hold off at one point) and we polished off all the routes as the sun finally came out providing some much needed warmth.
Thursday, April 12, 2018
Windgather climbing
Crag: Windgather, Western Grit
Routes: Mississippi Crack (S 4a:led), Wall Climb (HVD:led), Chockstone Chimney (D:led)
The plan had been to climb Ravensdale limestone this morning, but after a night in Ravenstor YHA and a pint or two at the Angler's Rest, the day dawned dank, misty and drizzly again. It was even worse than yesterday, so we headed west and just tried to grab a couple of routes at Windgather before going home. The mist was so thick that we couldn't see the crag from the road, and the windchill at the top of the crag was intense. But, as with Castle Naze, the cliff itself was relatively sheltered and I enjoyed Mississippi Crack, which starts steeply over a bulge before romping to the top up big holds: a splendid easy mini-classic. Two more routes, even easier, and both done on my '40 at 40' day in 2010, before the cold wind became unbearable.
Routes: Mississippi Crack (S 4a:led), Wall Climb (HVD:led), Chockstone Chimney (D:led)
The plan had been to climb Ravensdale limestone this morning, but after a night in Ravenstor YHA and a pint or two at the Angler's Rest, the day dawned dank, misty and drizzly again. It was even worse than yesterday, so we headed west and just tried to grab a couple of routes at Windgather before going home. The mist was so thick that we couldn't see the crag from the road, and the windchill at the top of the crag was intense. But, as with Castle Naze, the cliff itself was relatively sheltered and I enjoyed Mississippi Crack, which starts steeply over a bulge before romping to the top up big holds: a splendid easy mini-classic. Two more routes, even easier, and both done on my '40 at 40' day in 2010, before the cold wind became unbearable.
Wednesday, April 11, 2018
Castle Naze climbing
Crag: Castle Naze, Western Grit
Routes: Studio (HS 4b:sec), The Nithin (S 4a:led), Pilgrim's Progress (HS 4b:sec), Muscle Crack/Thin Crack (HS 4b:led)
Appalling weather as we headed across for what was supposed to be an intensive 30 hour climbing trip to the Peak. A moist easterly airflow meant it was unseasonably cold (4c), windy, misty and drizzly - with the weather marginally better in the western Peak. I felt that Castle Naze would give us the best chance of getting something done, and that was indeed the case. But visibility was just a few metres in thick mist and light drizzle was in the air as Vic set off up Studio, which has an awkward start with cold, damp jams up to a mantel before an easier slanting crack to finish. I followed up with the Nithin, which takes a steep crack then good moves up an arete before finishing up a damp chimney. A nice, varied route which kept me out of the drizzle. We then did the old classic Pilgrim's Progress which was hard in these conditions on the first real trad outing of the season. A steep crack with rounded arete holds, surprisingly strenuous, to a green and slimy finish. I then combined the easy start of Muscle Crack to a ledge before finishing up the top section of Thin Crack at around HS. Most of the other routes were damp, green, or both, so we called it a day. My second visit to Castle Naze, a nice venue, quite wild feeling in these conditions: we could have been in the middle of nowhere, as opposed to a few miles outside Chapel en le Frith.
Routes: Studio (HS 4b:sec), The Nithin (S 4a:led), Pilgrim's Progress (HS 4b:sec), Muscle Crack/Thin Crack (HS 4b:led)
Appalling weather as we headed across for what was supposed to be an intensive 30 hour climbing trip to the Peak. A moist easterly airflow meant it was unseasonably cold (4c), windy, misty and drizzly - with the weather marginally better in the western Peak. I felt that Castle Naze would give us the best chance of getting something done, and that was indeed the case. But visibility was just a few metres in thick mist and light drizzle was in the air as Vic set off up Studio, which has an awkward start with cold, damp jams up to a mantel before an easier slanting crack to finish. I followed up with the Nithin, which takes a steep crack then good moves up an arete before finishing up a damp chimney. A nice, varied route which kept me out of the drizzle. We then did the old classic Pilgrim's Progress which was hard in these conditions on the first real trad outing of the season. A steep crack with rounded arete holds, surprisingly strenuous, to a green and slimy finish. I then combined the easy start of Muscle Crack to a ledge before finishing up the top section of Thin Crack at around HS. Most of the other routes were damp, green, or both, so we called it a day. My second visit to Castle Naze, a nice venue, quite wild feeling in these conditions: we could have been in the middle of nowhere, as opposed to a few miles outside Chapel en le Frith.
Sunday, April 08, 2018
Mold border league
Race: Mold 5m (Border League race 6)
Time/Position: 29.26 (35th from 333)
My decline continues, although after last week's ultra and current total lack of speedwork that is perhaps not too surprising. This is the closest I have come in a decade to not even scoring for Buckley! In the event, I squeezed in as the 10th counter: the team is now well ahead at the top of division 1. I was actually reasonably pleased with my time, only half a minute down on the other two measured five milers this season, on a tougher course. I thought I'd timed the race quite well, making up ground to catch Chris and other Buckley runners with a mile to go. I then blew comprehensively on the final incline back through the industrial estate, losing 10 places, something that has happened in this precise spot numerous times before! After the race, I ran home via an extended route through Buckley: combined with a three mile warm up this gave a decent 16-17 mile long run, the last before London.
Time/Position: 29.26 (35th from 333)
My decline continues, although after last week's ultra and current total lack of speedwork that is perhaps not too surprising. This is the closest I have come in a decade to not even scoring for Buckley! In the event, I squeezed in as the 10th counter: the team is now well ahead at the top of division 1. I was actually reasonably pleased with my time, only half a minute down on the other two measured five milers this season, on a tougher course. I thought I'd timed the race quite well, making up ground to catch Chris and other Buckley runners with a mile to go. I then blew comprehensively on the final incline back through the industrial estate, losing 10 places, something that has happened in this precise spot numerous times before! After the race, I ran home via an extended route through Buckley: combined with a three mile warm up this gave a decent 16-17 mile long run, the last before London.
Friday, April 06, 2018
Pot Hole climbing
Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: Mango (HS 4a:led), Grizzly (HVS 5a:sec), Cristallo (VS 4b:sec), Selva (VS 4a:sec)
A quick rain-affected visit before the usual Friday run. Yesterday's nice weather hadn't lasted, although it was at least dry as I led Mango (for a quick re-acquaintance with trad) up the side wall. This takes some nice flake cracks to a ledge with a tree before a positive finishing crack. Not quite as badly polished as the main face, although that isn't saying much. There was a team on the best lines, so we just top-roped some of the shorter routes on the right as the rain began. Evening sunshine as we ran up Moel Famau, however.
Routes: Mango (HS 4a:led), Grizzly (HVS 5a:sec), Cristallo (VS 4b:sec), Selva (VS 4a:sec)
A quick rain-affected visit before the usual Friday run. Yesterday's nice weather hadn't lasted, although it was at least dry as I led Mango (for a quick re-acquaintance with trad) up the side wall. This takes some nice flake cracks to a ledge with a tree before a positive finishing crack. Not quite as badly polished as the main face, although that isn't saying much. There was a team on the best lines, so we just top-roped some of the shorter routes on the right as the rain began. Evening sunshine as we ran up Moel Famau, however.
Thursday, April 05, 2018
Trevor climbing
Crag: Trevor Rocks, Eglwyseg
Routes: SND (f4:sec), Cluedo (f5c:sec), Suspect Criminal (f6b:led), Clue, So? (f4+:sec), Amateur Sleuth (f5c:led), Suspectus (f6a+:led*), Suspectus (f6a+:sec), Disappearing Act (f5:led), No Remittal (f6a:sec), Who's Sam (f4:led)
I have long maintained this is one of the worst crags in North Wales, although I've done almost all the routes under 6c so it must be tolerable! Today, after some unaccustomed March wall training, I managed to tick a few of the routes I haven't done before. The best of these was Suspect Criminal, which I led after Steve kicked off with an easy groove. This 6b takes a simple rib to a fierce pull over the overlap to gain the excellent bubbly limestone above. The holds are not obvious, and small, but they are positive and a high step got me established on the bulging finishing wall which is easier than it looks from below. Nice climbing on sharp holds gains the lower-off. Steve led the polished arete, and we then did the truly dreadful f5c to its right, sloping holds, horrible start. Suspectus is the 6a+ which takes the brown groove: I steadied myself on the second clip which is awkwardly placed at the bulge. Powerful moves up this to the break, before short-lived by much more pleasant climbing on the upper wall. I then did it clean with rope above. The polish at this venue is now a bit of an issue, giving some hard starts for the grades. Lovely weather today, superb clarity of spring light - despite the scruffy nature of the crag itself, the views over the valley to Berwyn are some of the best in north-east Wales.
Routes: SND (f4:sec), Cluedo (f5c:sec), Suspect Criminal (f6b:led), Clue, So? (f4+:sec), Amateur Sleuth (f5c:led), Suspectus (f6a+:led*), Suspectus (f6a+:sec), Disappearing Act (f5:led), No Remittal (f6a:sec), Who's Sam (f4:led)
I have long maintained this is one of the worst crags in North Wales, although I've done almost all the routes under 6c so it must be tolerable! Today, after some unaccustomed March wall training, I managed to tick a few of the routes I haven't done before. The best of these was Suspect Criminal, which I led after Steve kicked off with an easy groove. This 6b takes a simple rib to a fierce pull over the overlap to gain the excellent bubbly limestone above. The holds are not obvious, and small, but they are positive and a high step got me established on the bulging finishing wall which is easier than it looks from below. Nice climbing on sharp holds gains the lower-off. Steve led the polished arete, and we then did the truly dreadful f5c to its right, sloping holds, horrible start. Suspectus is the 6a+ which takes the brown groove: I steadied myself on the second clip which is awkwardly placed at the bulge. Powerful moves up this to the break, before short-lived by much more pleasant climbing on the upper wall. I then did it clean with rope above. The polish at this venue is now a bit of an issue, giving some hard starts for the grades. Lovely weather today, superb clarity of spring light - despite the scruffy nature of the crag itself, the views over the valley to Berwyn are some of the best in north-east Wales.
Saturday, March 31, 2018
Lakes Mountain 42
Race: Lakes Mountain Ultra, shortened course (28m/7000ft)
Time/Position: 5.30 (22nd from 120)
Generally speaking, I dislike it when races are shortened: believing that the responsibility for competing should rest with the runners, not the organisers. However, there are sometimes exceptions, and today was - I think - one of those where the shortening was probably the right decision. The reason was obvious: hard-packed snow-ice on Helvellyn, where runners would have been tired and vulnerable, along with -17C windchill, meant that one of the two big loops taken by the course was removed entirely. After a night in the back of a van in Askham, we set off for the long (11 mile) climb up High Street at 8am. Given the shortening, it seemed sensible to push a little harder than planned (with a view to marathon training - three weeks until London!). Conditions were fairly grim: this is just open moorland from the edge of the Lakes up to the first checkpoint Loadpot Hill in thick clag and wet snow. From here, the route climbed over a series of whaleback summits, the weather getting progressively worse until we reached the hard-packed snow at High Raise. Jim and I ran together for this section, drifting too far left at one point. A bitter northerly, snow, and icy ground up to High Street - quite a contrast to my last time here, in glorious sunshine on the Kentmere horseshoe last summer. Then came the tricky nav, back north to towards Knott, then looking out for another junction to gain the undulating path to the next checkpoint at Angle Tarn. Snow gave way to driving sleet but we picked a really good line down, excellent running to eventually gain the tarn. We finally emerged from the mist above Boredale Hause with Patterdale below. Very wet, heavy rain, as we entered the climbers hut for a good feed - cheese, nuts and tea. Jim and I were still together as we began the crux climb up Place Fell, taking the normal route (which I last did while Kate had a drink in the hotel, 2001 perhaps) as opposed to the horribly steep direct climb. Either way, it is a hard slog, with heavy snow high up and verglassed rocks on top.Tricky navigation off the fell towards Martindale, new territory for me, although I think I got it more or less right down to the valley then along the road to Martindale. Views over Ullswater for the very long run-in along bridleways back to Askham. Second ultra of the year, albeit much shorter than planned: currently 7th overall in the British ultra running championships although I'm not sure that will last!
Time/Position: 5.30 (22nd from 120)
Generally speaking, I dislike it when races are shortened: believing that the responsibility for competing should rest with the runners, not the organisers. However, there are sometimes exceptions, and today was - I think - one of those where the shortening was probably the right decision. The reason was obvious: hard-packed snow-ice on Helvellyn, where runners would have been tired and vulnerable, along with -17C windchill, meant that one of the two big loops taken by the course was removed entirely. After a night in the back of a van in Askham, we set off for the long (11 mile) climb up High Street at 8am. Given the shortening, it seemed sensible to push a little harder than planned (with a view to marathon training - three weeks until London!). Conditions were fairly grim: this is just open moorland from the edge of the Lakes up to the first checkpoint Loadpot Hill in thick clag and wet snow. From here, the route climbed over a series of whaleback summits, the weather getting progressively worse until we reached the hard-packed snow at High Raise. Jim and I ran together for this section, drifting too far left at one point. A bitter northerly, snow, and icy ground up to High Street - quite a contrast to my last time here, in glorious sunshine on the Kentmere horseshoe last summer. Then came the tricky nav, back north to towards Knott, then looking out for another junction to gain the undulating path to the next checkpoint at Angle Tarn. Snow gave way to driving sleet but we picked a really good line down, excellent running to eventually gain the tarn. We finally emerged from the mist above Boredale Hause with Patterdale below. Very wet, heavy rain, as we entered the climbers hut for a good feed - cheese, nuts and tea. Jim and I were still together as we began the crux climb up Place Fell, taking the normal route (which I last did while Kate had a drink in the hotel, 2001 perhaps) as opposed to the horribly steep direct climb. Either way, it is a hard slog, with heavy snow high up and verglassed rocks on top.Tricky navigation off the fell towards Martindale, new territory for me, although I think I got it more or less right down to the valley then along the road to Martindale. Views over Ullswater for the very long run-in along bridleways back to Askham. Second ultra of the year, albeit much shorter than planned: currently 7th overall in the British ultra running championships although I'm not sure that will last!
Thursday, March 29, 2018
Minera climbing
Crag: Minera Quarry
Routes: The Open Grey Groove (f4:led), Hard Start (f6a+:led), Narrow Arete (f6a+:sec)
The mini-beast from the east meant this was an unpleasant experience far removed from previous visits to this undistinguished crag, where it's possible and quite easy to tick all the (overgraded) routes in a couple of hours. Today, no more than 2C and cloudy: horrible and particularly unfortunate given the technical and fingery nature of the climbing. Two leads and it was time to go, the cold spring weather a factor yet again.
Routes: The Open Grey Groove (f4:led), Hard Start (f6a+:led), Narrow Arete (f6a+:sec)
The mini-beast from the east meant this was an unpleasant experience far removed from previous visits to this undistinguished crag, where it's possible and quite easy to tick all the (overgraded) routes in a couple of hours. Today, no more than 2C and cloudy: horrible and particularly unfortunate given the technical and fingery nature of the climbing. Two leads and it was time to go, the cold spring weather a factor yet again.
Monday, March 26, 2018
Dyserth climbing
Crag: Dyserth Castle Slab
Routes: Tegeingl (f5+:led), The Purple Ladies (f6a:sec), Llewellyn ap Gruffydd to Neil Crud (f6a+:led), Jason and the Aga Nuts (f5a:sec), Leo Saw us Rex (f4:sec)
Crag: Ty Newydd
Routes: Madasafish (f5+:led), Wild Garlic (f6b:led)
An unusually long winter, so it was very welcome to have some sunshine this morning: birdsong and warmth on this sheltered and south-facing crag. I've done all the routes before, so we just used it as a shakedown before I upped the grade slightly for the 6a+ up the vague arete on the left: nicely delicate and an absorbing, enjoyable pitch. Steve led a couple of easy routes, and we then tried to find Ty Newydd, a new venue for me despite its location. It is uncompromisingly steep, hidden in a tight green valley of wild garlic. After a short 5+ warm-up, I led the scruffy Wild Garlic at an awkward 6b, which takes a dirty wall to hard moves round a bulge. Then came some unforecast rain and it was back to normal again.
Routes: Tegeingl (f5+:led), The Purple Ladies (f6a:sec), Llewellyn ap Gruffydd to Neil Crud (f6a+:led), Jason and the Aga Nuts (f5a:sec), Leo Saw us Rex (f4:sec)
Crag: Ty Newydd
Routes: Madasafish (f5+:led), Wild Garlic (f6b:led)
An unusually long winter, so it was very welcome to have some sunshine this morning: birdsong and warmth on this sheltered and south-facing crag. I've done all the routes before, so we just used it as a shakedown before I upped the grade slightly for the 6a+ up the vague arete on the left: nicely delicate and an absorbing, enjoyable pitch. Steve led a couple of easy routes, and we then tried to find Ty Newydd, a new venue for me despite its location. It is uncompromisingly steep, hidden in a tight green valley of wild garlic. After a short 5+ warm-up, I led the scruffy Wild Garlic at an awkward 6b, which takes a dirty wall to hard moves round a bulge. Then came some unforecast rain and it was back to normal again.
Friday, March 23, 2018
HK-Famau-Mold
I've been meaning to run from my home on the England-Wales border to the top of Moel Famau for years: this formed an ideal final long run before next weekend's Lakes 42 ultra. From Kinnerton I ran up through Buckley, then Mold and Gwernymynydd. I then did an extra loop through the woods towards Gwernaffield, then briefly joined the usual Friday night run after a snack. I broke off to take the usual route to the summit and then, after an excellent couple of pints at the Collie, ran back to Mold for some much needed food and a lift home. A good 20 miler, albeit slow.
Saturday, March 17, 2018
Ras yr Aran
Race: Aran fell race (shortened:5m/600m)
Time/Position: 52.17 (24th from 57)
There are few other races quite as prone to bad weather as this one: coming as it does in mid-March, going up to just below 3000ft, staying high for a while, and with the summit of Aran Fawddwy a long way from help. It is, as a result, one of my favourites: a real mountain race. But it does mean that it often has to adapt to the conditions: last year, this meant it turned back just below the summit scree in ferocious wind and driving rain. One year I can remember it turning back at a very icy Aran Benllyn. This year, it turned round at the much lower Moel Ffenigl, just over 600m, a mere pimple on the long ridge up to Fawddwy. This seemed a shame but was perhaps understandable given the conditions; -20c windchill and snow showers. It's the length of the summit ridge that makes it an unusually exposed race for the time of year. The shortening meant the race turned into a fast dash up to the 600m Ffenigl, which was unfortunate given that I've done no speedwork for months - way off the pace, miles down the field, struggling particularly on the climb as intermittent snow showers swept in, so cold that I got a headache. Warmed down in a blizzard along the side of Llyn Tegid.
Time/Position: 52.17 (24th from 57)
There are few other races quite as prone to bad weather as this one: coming as it does in mid-March, going up to just below 3000ft, staying high for a while, and with the summit of Aran Fawddwy a long way from help. It is, as a result, one of my favourites: a real mountain race. But it does mean that it often has to adapt to the conditions: last year, this meant it turned back just below the summit scree in ferocious wind and driving rain. One year I can remember it turning back at a very icy Aran Benllyn. This year, it turned round at the much lower Moel Ffenigl, just over 600m, a mere pimple on the long ridge up to Fawddwy. This seemed a shame but was perhaps understandable given the conditions; -20c windchill and snow showers. It's the length of the summit ridge that makes it an unusually exposed race for the time of year. The shortening meant the race turned into a fast dash up to the 600m Ffenigl, which was unfortunate given that I've done no speedwork for months - way off the pace, miles down the field, struggling particularly on the climb as intermittent snow showers swept in, so cold that I got a headache. Warmed down in a blizzard along the side of Llyn Tegid.
Saturday, March 10, 2018
Haworth Hobble
Race: Haworth Hobble (32m/4500ft)
Time/Position: 5.44.32 (58th from 313)
Only my third ultra marathon, and those have been widely dispersed over a decade: from the Icelandic Laugavegur in 2008 to the Manx Mountain Ultra in 2012. I'm convinced I am physically unsuited to proper distance events, the longer they go on the worse I do: but focusing on ultras this year does nevertheless have some logic, as I've had enough of speedwork (temporarily), and of the 500 races I've done over a 20 year period, properly long stuff remains the obvious gap. As such, this was just an appetizer, an entry level affair which hovers someway between a short ultra and a long fell race in character. It was a superb event, hugely enjoyable, and not just because I took it all at a very slow ambling pace - it was also a great, logical loop around this section of upland Yorkshire. A pleasant evening with Peter and Jez in the Fleece pub in Haworth, a night sleeping in the car outside the YHA, and an early start in claggy, misty and wet conditions. The route leaves Haworth to head up to Top Withens of Wuthering Heights fame: along good tracks over the misty spine of Wadsworth Moor and along a series of lakes and reservoirs (Walshaw Dean to Widdop) skirting Widdop Moor to the north. After some road, increasing the pace in heavy rain, it was back on the Pennine Bridleway way out to the west with Burnley in sight below. Boggy underfoot after all the recent snow; big drifts rapidly melting. In Lancashire now, perhaps? Round Hurstwood and Clough reservoirs to Worsthorne Moor and another road section (the long causeway) after a feed. This was only about 13 miles in; I was feeling OK but a bit more tired than I should have been given the gentle pace. A hotdog followed, with fried onions and mustard! I regretted this immediately - stomach pain, predictably enough - but it did help maintain energy for the hard, boggy and rocky section that came next, through the mist above the upper Calder Valley. Some lovely little side valleys with wisps of mist, drystone walls and snow drifts, then it was back down to the valleys again in Todmorden. Tricky navigation through the streets to gain a very steep climb which led to the much higher village of Mankinholes and another feed station (cheese pastie this time!). This was 20 miles in, and I knew that I would struggle in from here given lack of mileage in training. First, though, I had a second wind and really enjoyed the run through the lower moor below Stoodley Pike with the mist clearing and beautiful views. The climb up the Pike is steep and tiring, the top a huge Victorian monument looming out of thick clag. Then comes another descent back to the valley, arduous now with steep tarmac all the way down to Hebden Bridge, where more tortuous ginnels and steep steps lead to the brutal climb up to cobbled Heptonstall. The fatigue then kicks in for the long run in through great scenery (although my ultra conservative slow approach paid dividends in the sense that I wasn't too tired) taking in the wild moorland above Oxenhope (which I've visited by bike along the Tour route) to Penistone Hill and, eventually, Haworth again.
Time/Position: 5.44.32 (58th from 313)
Only my third ultra marathon, and those have been widely dispersed over a decade: from the Icelandic Laugavegur in 2008 to the Manx Mountain Ultra in 2012. I'm convinced I am physically unsuited to proper distance events, the longer they go on the worse I do: but focusing on ultras this year does nevertheless have some logic, as I've had enough of speedwork (temporarily), and of the 500 races I've done over a 20 year period, properly long stuff remains the obvious gap. As such, this was just an appetizer, an entry level affair which hovers someway between a short ultra and a long fell race in character. It was a superb event, hugely enjoyable, and not just because I took it all at a very slow ambling pace - it was also a great, logical loop around this section of upland Yorkshire. A pleasant evening with Peter and Jez in the Fleece pub in Haworth, a night sleeping in the car outside the YHA, and an early start in claggy, misty and wet conditions. The route leaves Haworth to head up to Top Withens of Wuthering Heights fame: along good tracks over the misty spine of Wadsworth Moor and along a series of lakes and reservoirs (Walshaw Dean to Widdop) skirting Widdop Moor to the north. After some road, increasing the pace in heavy rain, it was back on the Pennine Bridleway way out to the west with Burnley in sight below. Boggy underfoot after all the recent snow; big drifts rapidly melting. In Lancashire now, perhaps? Round Hurstwood and Clough reservoirs to Worsthorne Moor and another road section (the long causeway) after a feed. This was only about 13 miles in; I was feeling OK but a bit more tired than I should have been given the gentle pace. A hotdog followed, with fried onions and mustard! I regretted this immediately - stomach pain, predictably enough - but it did help maintain energy for the hard, boggy and rocky section that came next, through the mist above the upper Calder Valley. Some lovely little side valleys with wisps of mist, drystone walls and snow drifts, then it was back down to the valleys again in Todmorden. Tricky navigation through the streets to gain a very steep climb which led to the much higher village of Mankinholes and another feed station (cheese pastie this time!). This was 20 miles in, and I knew that I would struggle in from here given lack of mileage in training. First, though, I had a second wind and really enjoyed the run through the lower moor below Stoodley Pike with the mist clearing and beautiful views. The climb up the Pike is steep and tiring, the top a huge Victorian monument looming out of thick clag. Then comes another descent back to the valley, arduous now with steep tarmac all the way down to Hebden Bridge, where more tortuous ginnels and steep steps lead to the brutal climb up to cobbled Heptonstall. The fatigue then kicks in for the long run in through great scenery (although my ultra conservative slow approach paid dividends in the sense that I wasn't too tired) taking in the wild moorland above Oxenhope (which I've visited by bike along the Tour route) to Penistone Hill and, eventually, Haworth again.
Monday, March 05, 2018
Cwm Cneifion winter climbs
Crag: Cwm Cneifion/Idwal
Routes: Nameless Stream (wIII:sol), Cneifion Stream (wIII:sec/sol)
On the one hand, this was unlucky: several days of superb conditions with some very rarely formed routes up for grabs ended just before we arrived at Ogwen in low cloud and driving rain. On the other hand, we salvaged the only morsels realistically achieveable in the few hours available. We didn't arrive until lunchtime, by which time the rain was hammering down and the snow around Idwal melting very rapidly: temperatures had climbed to 5C and looked set to rise further, not promising. All the water-ice lines had formed around Idwal - the snow in Ogwen had remained light (in contrast to the Clwydians) and unconsolidated throughout the cold snap associated with the 'Beast from the East'. However, they were all rapidly melting and looked grim, so we felt that Cwm Cneifion would give us the best chance of salvaging something, as it often does. Taking the steep path up, we decided to look at the lower Nameless Stream which seemed to be quite fat from a distance (the stream which drops to Idwal from the lip of Cwm Cneifion). This was a great decision as despite some meltiness, it remained very well formed water-ice and gave a splendid route up into the upper cwm. Even better, I don't think I've ever done it before (although I could be wrong, it did seem vaguely familiar). Some surprisingly steep rises and an excellent section of snow ice up a curved runnel towards the top. The turf was well frozen too: a fine grade III watercourse in surprisingly good nick, and a fun way into the upper cwm. As usual, Cwm Cneifion itself was another world - the driving rain gave way to snow and the upper cwm was white and thick. Lower down, we did the excellent icefall marking the start of the Cneifion Stream. Dave led a nice 30m pitch which took three seperate steps of good grade III ice, more solid than the lower route. We then continued up another pitch, easier and slabby and walked into the always atmospheric upper cwm as heavy snow fell and Clogwyn Du was barely visible through the thick mist. A very wet descent back to Ogwen ensued: pouring rain lower down combined with the snowmelt.
Routes: Nameless Stream (wIII:sol), Cneifion Stream (wIII:sec/sol)
On the one hand, this was unlucky: several days of superb conditions with some very rarely formed routes up for grabs ended just before we arrived at Ogwen in low cloud and driving rain. On the other hand, we salvaged the only morsels realistically achieveable in the few hours available. We didn't arrive until lunchtime, by which time the rain was hammering down and the snow around Idwal melting very rapidly: temperatures had climbed to 5C and looked set to rise further, not promising. All the water-ice lines had formed around Idwal - the snow in Ogwen had remained light (in contrast to the Clwydians) and unconsolidated throughout the cold snap associated with the 'Beast from the East'. However, they were all rapidly melting and looked grim, so we felt that Cwm Cneifion would give us the best chance of salvaging something, as it often does. Taking the steep path up, we decided to look at the lower Nameless Stream which seemed to be quite fat from a distance (the stream which drops to Idwal from the lip of Cwm Cneifion). This was a great decision as despite some meltiness, it remained very well formed water-ice and gave a splendid route up into the upper cwm. Even better, I don't think I've ever done it before (although I could be wrong, it did seem vaguely familiar). Some surprisingly steep rises and an excellent section of snow ice up a curved runnel towards the top. The turf was well frozen too: a fine grade III watercourse in surprisingly good nick, and a fun way into the upper cwm. As usual, Cwm Cneifion itself was another world - the driving rain gave way to snow and the upper cwm was white and thick. Lower down, we did the excellent icefall marking the start of the Cneifion Stream. Dave led a nice 30m pitch which took three seperate steps of good grade III ice, more solid than the lower route. We then continued up another pitch, easier and slabby and walked into the always atmospheric upper cwm as heavy snow fell and Clogwyn Du was barely visible through the thick mist. A very wet descent back to Ogwen ensued: pouring rain lower down combined with the snowmelt.
Sunday, March 04, 2018
Clwydian run
It's been a few years since we've seen head-height drifts in the Clwydians and even by the standards of 2010 or 2013 a lot of snow has fallen higher up recently. A memorable Collie run on Friday, chest-deep drifts by the fences and heavy snowfall as we drank our pints: a tricky drive home. This morning we ran from Mold past two cars abandoned in drifts to Moel Findeg in thick mist, then over Bryn Alyn to a magical Nercwys forest, thick snow and draped trees. The road back had been ploughed, with the snow over head height on each side. Several good long runs recently, in preparation (inadequate, as ever) for next weekend's Haworth Hobble.
Wednesday, February 21, 2018
Havana run
A run along the legendary Malecon: an essential addition to my four-night stay in Havana after enjoying the seafront ambience on a number of occasions. 'The world's longest sofa' say some, although when I finally got round to running it a fairly ferocious easterly made it unusually quiet, with spray and flying sand especially out towards Vedado. The outward leg, past the famous Hotel Nacional, was a delight, with a strong tailwind. The return into the headwind was a different matter: a real struggle that reminded me of home and any number of border league fixtures along any number of North Wales and Wirral proms!
Tuesday, February 20, 2018
Vinales walk/run
I was keen to get out into the Cuban countryside, and Vinales - in the western Pinar del Rio province - seemed the best option, albeit a fairly predictable one. Its landscape is famous, and echoes parts of southern China and Thailand with its limestone spires rising from flat valley floors. These are called 'mogotes' locally, and my first view of the valley was a memorable one as my bus stopped near Los Jazmines, an old hotel with a fabulous view, still lit by the morning sun. The mogotes tower above the flat valley with tight 'gorges' radiating outwards - and in the foreground lush palms (the endemic mountain palms) and fig trees. Beyond, the low Sierra de los Organos mountains. Later that first day, I walked to the Cueva de la Vacha, admiring the superb rock scenery with some great looking routes going through the tufa pillars and stalactites, even meeting a French climbing pair looking for easy options (the only climbers I saw). The potential for new routes is vast. Today, I explored various corners of the region culminating in a jog from the Mirador near Los Jazmines down to the valley floor where I navigated a complex series of farm tracks through the tobacco plantations to emerge at the road below the impressive mogote at the head of the Dos Hermanos valley. From here I jogged up to the hideous eyesore known as the 'mural of prehistory' before getting the bus back to town after a long, dusty, sweaty wait. Refuelled with a cubanito, fresh lime juice and fried red snapper.
Saturday, February 03, 2018
Oswestry XC
Race: Oswestry XC (North Wales cross country league, race 5)
Time/Position: 43.16 (37th from 142)
It's been a tough season, with some challenging conditions (quagmire at Bangor, storm at Llandudno, sleet in Baschurch). Nasty again today, but at least the sleet had stopped when we set off. Sadly, I went into meltdown on the second lap and recorded by far my worst result of the season, 10 places down and struggling desperately; but I managed to hold on to the 3rd V45 slot overall (same as last year). Similarly, Buckley just held on to win the Veteran's Team prize for the season, possibly for the first time ever (2nd team overall).
Time/Position: 43.16 (37th from 142)
It's been a tough season, with some challenging conditions (quagmire at Bangor, storm at Llandudno, sleet in Baschurch). Nasty again today, but at least the sleet had stopped when we set off. Sadly, I went into meltdown on the second lap and recorded by far my worst result of the season, 10 places down and struggling desperately; but I managed to hold on to the 3rd V45 slot overall (same as last year). Similarly, Buckley just held on to win the Veteran's Team prize for the season, possibly for the first time ever (2nd team overall).
Saturday, January 20, 2018
Baschurch XC
Race: Baschurch, Shrewsbury XC (North Wales cross country league, race 4)
Time/Position: 39.34 (29th from 131 [3rd V45])
Snow falling through much of Shropshire at lunchtime, although it changed to a combination of slush and sleet as we approached Walford College for round 4 of this year's cross country. Last year's fixture here, with its three-lap crossing of a thigh-deep river, had been memorable, and it seemed likely the water would be deeper and colder this year. That was indeed the case, and combined with a very muddy course, one field under water, and a wall, to make for a classic XC experience - albeit one I plodded round with a persistent mild cold. My feet and hands took an hour to thaw out.
Time/Position: 39.34 (29th from 131 [3rd V45])
Snow falling through much of Shropshire at lunchtime, although it changed to a combination of slush and sleet as we approached Walford College for round 4 of this year's cross country. Last year's fixture here, with its three-lap crossing of a thigh-deep river, had been memorable, and it seemed likely the water would be deeper and colder this year. That was indeed the case, and combined with a very muddy course, one field under water, and a wall, to make for a classic XC experience - albeit one I plodded round with a persistent mild cold. My feet and hands took an hour to thaw out.
Sunday, January 14, 2018
Abergele Border League
Race: Abergele 5m (Border League race 3)
Time/Position: 28.50 (28th from 375)
My slide down the positions in the league continued with this perfunctory plod round the measured five mile seaside course used for November's regional championships. My time was virtually the same as last November (both races were 50 seconds slower than my course PB), and conditions were kinder and calmer today, so it really should have been a bit quicker. Over 30 runners came in below 29 minutes, including nine from Buckley: not surprisingly we currently sit on top of division one.
Time/Position: 28.50 (28th from 375)
My slide down the positions in the league continued with this perfunctory plod round the measured five mile seaside course used for November's regional championships. My time was virtually the same as last November (both races were 50 seconds slower than my course PB), and conditions were kinder and calmer today, so it really should have been a bit quicker. Over 30 runners came in below 29 minutes, including nine from Buckley: not surprisingly we currently sit on top of division one.
Sunday, January 07, 2018
Glyderau mountain morning
Peaks: Glyder Fawr, Y Garn
Area: Glyderau, Eryri
A bitter easterly wind was forecast, so I felt that Cwm Cneifion would offer the best chance of shelter: every inch of it familiar territory. I was on my own, so scampered along the shores of Idwal at first light before ploughing up the hillside and traversing into East Wall Gully (I was a bit tired after yesterday's race and wanted to use my arms). This gives good scrambling, awkward verglas in many places today, until I emerged at the mouth of Cwm Cneifion which is always one of the best snow-holding areas in Snowdonia. Instant snow cover, although it was mainly fresh powder I gambled on some older consolidated strips being present on the headwall. The upper cwm was, as I'd hoped, relatively sheltered although blasts from time to time hinted at the ferocity above and sent clouds of spindrift down from the headwall. I made my way towards the top right of the cwm, put my kahtoolas over my running shoes and picked an enjoyable line up the gully, which always has a pleasant mild mountaineering flavour. At the top, spectacular views as the morning mist parted from the pillar and away to the west. A bitter easterly, however, which made running difficult (and I was slightly tired after yesterday's race). The windchill got even more intense as I descended from Y Garn (having found some shelter at the summit cairn). In 30 years in Snowdonia, I have rarely experienced anything quite as intense: a very strong easterly, painful windchill, difficult initially to get down the top section of Banana Ridge. Wonderful views, however, and good running lower down as the circulation began to return. Home in time for lunch.
Area: Glyderau, Eryri
A bitter easterly wind was forecast, so I felt that Cwm Cneifion would offer the best chance of shelter: every inch of it familiar territory. I was on my own, so scampered along the shores of Idwal at first light before ploughing up the hillside and traversing into East Wall Gully (I was a bit tired after yesterday's race and wanted to use my arms). This gives good scrambling, awkward verglas in many places today, until I emerged at the mouth of Cwm Cneifion which is always one of the best snow-holding areas in Snowdonia. Instant snow cover, although it was mainly fresh powder I gambled on some older consolidated strips being present on the headwall. The upper cwm was, as I'd hoped, relatively sheltered although blasts from time to time hinted at the ferocity above and sent clouds of spindrift down from the headwall. I made my way towards the top right of the cwm, put my kahtoolas over my running shoes and picked an enjoyable line up the gully, which always has a pleasant mild mountaineering flavour. At the top, spectacular views as the morning mist parted from the pillar and away to the west. A bitter easterly, however, which made running difficult (and I was slightly tired after yesterday's race). The windchill got even more intense as I descended from Y Garn (having found some shelter at the summit cairn). In 30 years in Snowdonia, I have rarely experienced anything quite as intense: a very strong easterly, painful windchill, difficult initially to get down the top section of Banana Ridge. Wonderful views, however, and good running lower down as the circulation began to return. Home in time for lunch.
Saturday, January 06, 2018
Rhug Cross Country
Race: North Wales XC Championships, Rhug, Corwen (11k)
Time/Position: 39.50 (15th from 61 [2nd V45])
Although it is almost always a small field at this event, my finishing position has slipped considerably over the six or seven times I've done it. Well off the pace last year, although times were quick and I fortunately won my category. This year was similar: boggy in the usual places, but I just kept the same plodding pace churning over, lacking any speed. I have always enjoyed this course, though, you can grind out a bit of a rhythm and the distant views of the Berwyn are always nice. Dry this year too, albeit cold. We had a strong team and won the overall team prize and the veteran's prize again.
Time/Position: 39.50 (15th from 61 [2nd V45])
Although it is almost always a small field at this event, my finishing position has slipped considerably over the six or seven times I've done it. Well off the pace last year, although times were quick and I fortunately won my category. This year was similar: boggy in the usual places, but I just kept the same plodding pace churning over, lacking any speed. I have always enjoyed this course, though, you can grind out a bit of a rhythm and the distant views of the Berwyn are always nice. Dry this year too, albeit cold. We had a strong team and won the overall team prize and the veteran's prize again.
Wednesday, January 03, 2018
Carneddau run
Peak: Drum
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
This route is a tried and tested solution to ferocious westerlies, and it worked again as Storm Eleanor hit North Wales with 80mph gusts at our exact moment of departure. Andy and I set off under leaden skies from the A55, up the steep road taken by the Foel Fras race, which is always a struggle. As soon as the track to Bwlch y Ddaefaen gets exposed the fierce westerly kicked in, blowing us upwards initially before turning into a crosswind higher up. We knew it would be impossible to communicate on the top, so worked out a pre-arranged set of signals! I lay flat on the grass on the summit of Drum, an old trick, as the 75mph winds whistled just above my nose. Andy arrived, and we indicated 'down'. I'd pulled exactly the same trick a year ago, when hail made life even more uncomfortable. Today, it was just the wind, and it was hard to make any progress towards Llyn Anafon initially, even steeply downhill. But with each metre descended, the wind gets imperceptibly lighter, and down in the cwm there is usually very little if it's blowing from the west. Excellent running down Anafon (feeling much better than I was last time I was here, descending from our 3000s run in August), then we took the extension north to the road, avoiding the tarmac and finishing on the A55.
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
This route is a tried and tested solution to ferocious westerlies, and it worked again as Storm Eleanor hit North Wales with 80mph gusts at our exact moment of departure. Andy and I set off under leaden skies from the A55, up the steep road taken by the Foel Fras race, which is always a struggle. As soon as the track to Bwlch y Ddaefaen gets exposed the fierce westerly kicked in, blowing us upwards initially before turning into a crosswind higher up. We knew it would be impossible to communicate on the top, so worked out a pre-arranged set of signals! I lay flat on the grass on the summit of Drum, an old trick, as the 75mph winds whistled just above my nose. Andy arrived, and we indicated 'down'. I'd pulled exactly the same trick a year ago, when hail made life even more uncomfortable. Today, it was just the wind, and it was hard to make any progress towards Llyn Anafon initially, even steeply downhill. But with each metre descended, the wind gets imperceptibly lighter, and down in the cwm there is usually very little if it's blowing from the west. Excellent running down Anafon (feeling much better than I was last time I was here, descending from our 3000s run in August), then we took the extension north to the road, avoiding the tarmac and finishing on the A55.
Sunday, December 31, 2017
Bowstones fell race
Race: Bowstones fell race, Poynton (11k/1063ft)
Time/Position: 48.27 (17th from 384)
Third consecutive year at this race on the edge of the Peak District, and another minute slower. It's very runnable throughout, so any lack of speed is quickly exposed; but it was still a bit disappointing to feel so sluggish after having a good race at Round the Walls five days ago, and finishing 4th at the hilly Buckley handicap around Moel Famau on the 28th. There is no real downtime on the course, you have to push throughout, and I began to feel it on the path through the woods and the final climb up to the highpoint. A few seconds to enjoy the views of Greater Manchester (another nice sunny day for this race), then it was into the long descent, predictably muddy underfoot.
Time/Position: 48.27 (17th from 384)
Third consecutive year at this race on the edge of the Peak District, and another minute slower. It's very runnable throughout, so any lack of speed is quickly exposed; but it was still a bit disappointing to feel so sluggish after having a good race at Round the Walls five days ago, and finishing 4th at the hilly Buckley handicap around Moel Famau on the 28th. There is no real downtime on the course, you have to push throughout, and I began to feel it on the path through the woods and the final climb up to the highpoint. A few seconds to enjoy the views of Greater Manchester (another nice sunny day for this race), then it was into the long descent, predictably muddy underfoot.
Tuesday, December 26, 2017
Round the Walls race
Race: Round the Walls, Chester (4.5m)
Time/Position: 26.10 (8th from 443)
The bridge over Watergate re-opened after months of work just days before this year's race, which meant that an almost-complete circuit could be run again. As usual, we all went along for this perfect Boxing Day outing, and it was a nice day: cold, but not freezing, sunny and crisp. The initial half loop of a wet Roodee led to another sprint below the grandstand then up on to Nun's Road for a clockwise loop of the walls, coming down briefly at Northgate where rebuilding work continues. Two passed me before the narrow section round the cathedral but I didn't lose too much ground. Step technique is always the key! We came off the walls beyond Handbridge and then looped round the Roodee on the Dee path, where I managed to regain the places I'd lost. Kate enjoyed the race too: always an excellent way of burning off some of the excess and making space for more food and drink.
Time/Position: 26.10 (8th from 443)
The bridge over Watergate re-opened after months of work just days before this year's race, which meant that an almost-complete circuit could be run again. As usual, we all went along for this perfect Boxing Day outing, and it was a nice day: cold, but not freezing, sunny and crisp. The initial half loop of a wet Roodee led to another sprint below the grandstand then up on to Nun's Road for a clockwise loop of the walls, coming down briefly at Northgate where rebuilding work continues. Two passed me before the narrow section round the cathedral but I didn't lose too much ground. Step technique is always the key! We came off the walls beyond Handbridge and then looped round the Roodee on the Dee path, where I managed to regain the places I'd lost. Kate enjoyed the race too: always an excellent way of burning off some of the excess and making space for more food and drink.
Sunday, December 24, 2017
Cylch Llangollen variant
A short version of the Llangollen Round, a 32 mile trip round the Dee catchment. Peter suggested it as a Christmas Eve outing, and it was an excellent idea, but I hadn't properly checked the details and needed to be home by midday. So, sadly, it was a curtailed version for Steve and I, but all very enjoyable. We left Trevor at first light, in drizzle and lowish cloud, then headed through the lanes to join the OD path through the woods north of the village. These emerge on the Panorama road and we climbed through the Monument boulders to gain the escarpment and the edge of Ruabon moor. The route then takes a direct line across the edge of Esclusham Moor, much of this new territory for me and much more runnable than I'd expected (I have always used the OD path below the crags when doing loops of this valley). As we approached World's End, a brief glimmer of sun, and a useful tail/cross wind. The
terrain, kind underfoot until this point, turns boggy after the duckboards and
the crosswind turned into a headwind as we crested Cyrn y Brain. After a coffee
and jaffa cakes at the Ponderosa, we continued in a strong wind over Moel y
Faen and Moel y Gamelin before going our separate ways: Peter continuing to
Carrog, Steve and I looping back to the Ponderosa.
Saturday, December 23, 2017
Wepre parkrun
'Race': Wepre Parkrun (5k)
Time/Position: 20.05 (4th from 143)
An unexpectedly beautiful morning. Even Deeside looked stunning, with a cloud inversion over the estuary and low sunshine streaming through the light mist. I felt a bit rough throughout, my third outing at Wepre, but it is a good fartlek session and a nice start to the weekend.
Time/Position: 20.05 (4th from 143)
An unexpectedly beautiful morning. Even Deeside looked stunning, with a cloud inversion over the estuary and low sunshine streaming through the light mist. I felt a bit rough throughout, my third outing at Wepre, but it is a good fartlek session and a nice start to the weekend.
Saturday, December 16, 2017
Berwyn run
Peaks: Cadair Bronwen
Area: Berwyn
More like a badly equipped hillwalk than a run, we were stymied by waist-deep drifts across the Berwyn ridge, a fairly common occurrence when running in full winter conditions. A cold snap coincided with my trip to Malaysia and the days following my return. Much of the snow has already disappeared from lower levels and it was a predominantly slushy run up from Llandrillo until the slopes beyond the stone circle of Moel Ty Uchaf. Soft snow then gave way to much deeper cover, drifting in many places. The snow also had that characteristic unpredictable quality, every fourth or fifth step leading to a plunge through the crust (which otherwise supports your weight). This is always exhausting, and was the primary reason for John B's hypothermia in similar conditions on Creigiau Gleision a few years ago. We plodded on to the top of Cadair Berwyn, then down the ridge (the duckboards under feet of snow in places) until we reached the col. Strong winds and dreadful snow conditions meant we had to descend, which made for an interesting nav test as the path was undetectable until we regained our footprints.
Area: Berwyn
More like a badly equipped hillwalk than a run, we were stymied by waist-deep drifts across the Berwyn ridge, a fairly common occurrence when running in full winter conditions. A cold snap coincided with my trip to Malaysia and the days following my return. Much of the snow has already disappeared from lower levels and it was a predominantly slushy run up from Llandrillo until the slopes beyond the stone circle of Moel Ty Uchaf. Soft snow then gave way to much deeper cover, drifting in many places. The snow also had that characteristic unpredictable quality, every fourth or fifth step leading to a plunge through the crust (which otherwise supports your weight). This is always exhausting, and was the primary reason for John B's hypothermia in similar conditions on Creigiau Gleision a few years ago. We plodded on to the top of Cadair Berwyn, then down the ridge (the duckboards under feet of snow in places) until we reached the col. Strong winds and dreadful snow conditions meant we had to descend, which made for an interesting nav test as the path was undetectable until we regained our footprints.
Thursday, December 07, 2017
Kuala Lumpur run
Not so much a run as a slow jog or quick walk in humid conditions around the environs of the Batu Caves. The steep steps up to the caves would give an excellent hill rep session, although the volume of visitors makes this impractical! They are, however, considerably more impressive than I'd been led to believe, and a fresh coconut was a nice way to rehydrate.
Monday, December 04, 2017
Moel Wnion run
Peak: Moel Wnion
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
A full frontal assault up the Aber Falls side of Moel Wnion, just a quick early morning blast on the way back from Anglesey. From the usual path to the falls, I branched west then took the obvious shallow but very steep 'gully' that leads to the summit plateau. This is steep throughout, but gets very steep towards the top, involving heathery handholds and a great deal of wet grass. Thick mist on the summit so just took a vague northerly bearing and headed back: the mist didn't part until I was just above the road, I could hear the A55 traffic but couldn't see it, a cloudbase of 100m perhaps.
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
A full frontal assault up the Aber Falls side of Moel Wnion, just a quick early morning blast on the way back from Anglesey. From the usual path to the falls, I branched west then took the obvious shallow but very steep 'gully' that leads to the summit plateau. This is steep throughout, but gets very steep towards the top, involving heathery handholds and a great deal of wet grass. Thick mist on the summit so just took a vague northerly bearing and headed back: the mist didn't part until I was just above the road, I could hear the A55 traffic but couldn't see it, a cloudbase of 100m perhaps.
Saturday, December 02, 2017
Penrhyn parkrun
'Race': Penrhyn Parkrun (5k)
Time/Position: 18.34 (2nd from 125)
Staying on Anglesey for the weekend, so Kate and I nipped across the Menai Straits for the Penrhyn Parkrun. Drizzle and low cloud obscured the normally superb views of mountain and sea, but the circuit is a pleasant (though tortuous) one, with two long laps round the grounds and two short ones. Not particularly fast: muddy, narrow and hilly in places. A nice finish, inside the castle courtyard.
Time/Position: 18.34 (2nd from 125)
Staying on Anglesey for the weekend, so Kate and I nipped across the Menai Straits for the Penrhyn Parkrun. Drizzle and low cloud obscured the normally superb views of mountain and sea, but the circuit is a pleasant (though tortuous) one, with two long laps round the grounds and two short ones. Not particularly fast: muddy, narrow and hilly in places. A nice finish, inside the castle courtyard.
Saturday, November 25, 2017
Bangor XC
Race: Bangor XC (North Wales Cross Country League, race 3)
Time/Position: 37.41 (28th from 148 [3rd V45])
This course is often a mudbath, although conditions today were perhaps the worst I have known. Times were certainly down, although my decision to leave my spikes in the car was not a good one! The hill and the far reaches of the rugby fields were particularly cloying, with the descent through the woods the only brief relief from the quagmire.
Time/Position: 37.41 (28th from 148 [3rd V45])
This course is often a mudbath, although conditions today were perhaps the worst I have known. Times were certainly down, although my decision to leave my spikes in the car was not a good one! The hill and the far reaches of the rugby fields were particularly cloying, with the descent through the woods the only brief relief from the quagmire.
Sunday, November 12, 2017
Roaches fell race
Race: Roaches fell race (BL/15m+/3700ft)
Time/Position: 2.40.19 (36th from 215)
A relaxed 'away day' at the end of the fell running year, and another British classic ticked off the list. I had no inclination to race this, tired after Friday night's race and with a distinct lack of training distance in the legs: but the weather was perfect, cold and crystal clear, albeit accompanied by a stiff northerly that seemed likely to cause problems on the outward leg. The route is unusual as a long 'out and back': Vic and I had reccied quite a bit of it on an extremely grim day in early January 2016 and I have climbed at the Roaches a few times over the years, so had some knowledge of the first part of the route. From Meerbrook, it heads towards the crags on the skyline, through an infamous slurry pit at the farm where we both got electrocuted in 2016! A horrible slog through muddy fields leads up to the road below the crags, before the route takes a big gritstone path which curves round to the famous upper tier, home of many classic rock climbs. Above this, the route emerges on a vague ridge amidst typical gritstone scenery: it is awkward rocky running terrain demanding full concentration, although distant views over Cheshire and the Peak were superb today. Eventually, after the trig point, it descends and very rapid progress on grit flagstones is made down to the road at Roach End. After this, the descent continues, awkward and steeper, into the Gradbach woods which give undulating and exciting running along to the river crossing (thigh deep) in the Dane Valley. More climbing over muddy fields leads eventually to Crag Hall and Wildboarclough where the final climb up the steep cone of Shutlingsloe begins. This is the only real 'peak' in the Peak District, the Matterhorn of Cheshire, and a fine mini-objective on which to turn round! The reverse leg is not at all tedious, and (rather surprisingly) is substantially quicker and less physically demanding. The tailwind was a help at times, as expected, and I kept the same gently plodding pace going throughout, intent on enjoyment rather than competition! The final descent from the Roaches to Meerbrook was ultra muddy, even by the standards of a November fell race. As I approach my 500th race, it's been a good year for ticking off interesting and classic fell races that have long been obvious gaps on the 'cv': all of them done in relaxed 'tourist mode', starting with the wonderful Anniversary Waltz in April, and including the Preseli Beast, Ennerdale Horseshoe, Kentmere, and even some newer Welsh races that I've contrived to miss in the past, like Trefriw Mill, Gyrn Gallop and Fron Four.
Time/Position: 2.40.19 (36th from 215)
A relaxed 'away day' at the end of the fell running year, and another British classic ticked off the list. I had no inclination to race this, tired after Friday night's race and with a distinct lack of training distance in the legs: but the weather was perfect, cold and crystal clear, albeit accompanied by a stiff northerly that seemed likely to cause problems on the outward leg. The route is unusual as a long 'out and back': Vic and I had reccied quite a bit of it on an extremely grim day in early January 2016 and I have climbed at the Roaches a few times over the years, so had some knowledge of the first part of the route. From Meerbrook, it heads towards the crags on the skyline, through an infamous slurry pit at the farm where we both got electrocuted in 2016! A horrible slog through muddy fields leads up to the road below the crags, before the route takes a big gritstone path which curves round to the famous upper tier, home of many classic rock climbs. Above this, the route emerges on a vague ridge amidst typical gritstone scenery: it is awkward rocky running terrain demanding full concentration, although distant views over Cheshire and the Peak were superb today. Eventually, after the trig point, it descends and very rapid progress on grit flagstones is made down to the road at Roach End. After this, the descent continues, awkward and steeper, into the Gradbach woods which give undulating and exciting running along to the river crossing (thigh deep) in the Dane Valley. More climbing over muddy fields leads eventually to Crag Hall and Wildboarclough where the final climb up the steep cone of Shutlingsloe begins. This is the only real 'peak' in the Peak District, the Matterhorn of Cheshire, and a fine mini-objective on which to turn round! The reverse leg is not at all tedious, and (rather surprisingly) is substantially quicker and less physically demanding. The tailwind was a help at times, as expected, and I kept the same gently plodding pace going throughout, intent on enjoyment rather than competition! The final descent from the Roaches to Meerbrook was ultra muddy, even by the standards of a November fell race. As I approach my 500th race, it's been a good year for ticking off interesting and classic fell races that have long been obvious gaps on the 'cv': all of them done in relaxed 'tourist mode', starting with the wonderful Anniversary Waltz in April, and including the Preseli Beast, Ennerdale Horseshoe, Kentmere, and even some newer Welsh races that I've contrived to miss in the past, like Trefriw Mill, Gyrn Gallop and Fron Four.
Friday, November 10, 2017
Dash in the dark
Race: Dash in the dark, Race 1 (6.5k/750ft)
Time/Position: 27.29 (7th from 134)
I somehow contrived to miss all of last year's headtorch races, so it was great to be able to reacquaint myself with this very enjoyable event tonight. I have done it a lot over the years, most often in its earlier incarnation when I can remember just 25 people turning up one grim winter night. It's very different now, and a big crowd of runners set off from Llandegla in good conditions: cool and dry, with rain forecast to arrive later. A quick start at the front, and I soon got in a group of four, trying to keep with Steve's rapid early pace. Our little group had a grand little battle, and we were neck and neck as we emerged at the lakeside path which gives the only opportunity for a flat blast. A very steep descent through the woods follows, on which it is virtually impossible to stay upright, even with decent studs. My new head torch and shoes paid dividends (although I didn't stay upright, sliding twice) and I was able to pull away a bit on the final climb to the centre. Great fun, as always.
Time/Position: 27.29 (7th from 134)
I somehow contrived to miss all of last year's headtorch races, so it was great to be able to reacquaint myself with this very enjoyable event tonight. I have done it a lot over the years, most often in its earlier incarnation when I can remember just 25 people turning up one grim winter night. It's very different now, and a big crowd of runners set off from Llandegla in good conditions: cool and dry, with rain forecast to arrive later. A quick start at the front, and I soon got in a group of four, trying to keep with Steve's rapid early pace. Our little group had a grand little battle, and we were neck and neck as we emerged at the lakeside path which gives the only opportunity for a flat blast. A very steep descent through the woods follows, on which it is virtually impossible to stay upright, even with decent studs. My new head torch and shoes paid dividends (although I didn't stay upright, sliding twice) and I was able to pull away a bit on the final climb to the centre. Great fun, as always.
Sunday, November 05, 2017
Abergele 5
Race: Abergele 5 mile (North Wales Championships)
Time/Position: 29.19 (17th from 184 [1st V45])
My slowest ever time at the Abergele 5, and this despite the fact that the once hilly course has now changed to a fast, flat dash along the seafront. Possibly my worst finishing position too, so I was rather lucky to win my age category in both the open race and the championship today. That said, conditions were not great, with strong westerly winds rendering the outward two miles quite demanding and a small tidal flood blocking the path further on. I got in with an equally matched group of runners, the third such group on the road, and this gave us some shelter before it broke up on the return leg. This new championship route is the same as the long established border league fixture, which I have also done many times: I remember running 28.00 on the course, or a version of it, so this was a lot slower.
Time/Position: 29.19 (17th from 184 [1st V45])
My slowest ever time at the Abergele 5, and this despite the fact that the once hilly course has now changed to a fast, flat dash along the seafront. Possibly my worst finishing position too, so I was rather lucky to win my age category in both the open race and the championship today. That said, conditions were not great, with strong westerly winds rendering the outward two miles quite demanding and a small tidal flood blocking the path further on. I got in with an equally matched group of runners, the third such group on the road, and this gave us some shelter before it broke up on the return leg. This new championship route is the same as the long established border league fixture, which I have also done many times: I remember running 28.00 on the course, or a version of it, so this was a lot slower.
Monday, October 30, 2017
Tryfan climbing
Peak: Tryfan
Route: First Pinnacle Rib (D:led in 6 p's)
It always feels like a bonus to get any Snowdonian climbing done this late in the year, no matter how easy, and this was a delightful way to revisit a grand old classic of the Welsh mountains. I last did this route in the early 90s: perhaps the only one of Tryfan's classic triptych that I've never repeated. Sunshine was just peeping through the milky cloud as Steve, Vic and myself slogged up to the Heather Terrace - a very familiar journey indeed. Nobody else was around, and I still have vivid memories of myself and Tim picking off all the mountaineering classics on the East Face in similar circumstances in the winter of 1992. The nomenclature of the two pinnacle rib routes has got a bit confusing over the years, but we set off up Pinnacle Rib route, the right-hand line. A deep groove, delicious in the sunshine, leads to a chockstone and steepening to flakes and a stance. I brought Steve and Vic up, then led an equally enjoyable second up the steeper front of the rib. Above, a broken series of steep walls gives a long pitch. Vic led a 10m wall left to gain the pinnacle, where we merged with the left-hand line to ensure we got the Yellow Slab. This is much harder than the rest of the route, a delicate and distinct crux up a perfect rippled slab. I'm not sure I have ever led this before: it is short-lived and leads to a groove and big holds. Above, the final (sixth) pitch takes a photogenic rib of sheaved, curving rock: I remembered this as if it was yesterday, lovely relaxing climbing with the deep gulf of South Gully beyond. The sun was dropping as we lunched, along with the air temperature, so we avoided the continuation wall and scrambled up to the summit: sunny and clear, although a bank of cloud was spilling over the Glyder ridge. I suggested descending North and Little gullies, an old trick of mine, and they enjoyed the continuation of the rock work and directness. A jog down Heather Terrace got us back to the car well before sunset: an efficient little outing.
Route: First Pinnacle Rib (D:led in 6 p's)
It always feels like a bonus to get any Snowdonian climbing done this late in the year, no matter how easy, and this was a delightful way to revisit a grand old classic of the Welsh mountains. I last did this route in the early 90s: perhaps the only one of Tryfan's classic triptych that I've never repeated. Sunshine was just peeping through the milky cloud as Steve, Vic and myself slogged up to the Heather Terrace - a very familiar journey indeed. Nobody else was around, and I still have vivid memories of myself and Tim picking off all the mountaineering classics on the East Face in similar circumstances in the winter of 1992. The nomenclature of the two pinnacle rib routes has got a bit confusing over the years, but we set off up Pinnacle Rib route, the right-hand line. A deep groove, delicious in the sunshine, leads to a chockstone and steepening to flakes and a stance. I brought Steve and Vic up, then led an equally enjoyable second up the steeper front of the rib. Above, a broken series of steep walls gives a long pitch. Vic led a 10m wall left to gain the pinnacle, where we merged with the left-hand line to ensure we got the Yellow Slab. This is much harder than the rest of the route, a delicate and distinct crux up a perfect rippled slab. I'm not sure I have ever led this before: it is short-lived and leads to a groove and big holds. Above, the final (sixth) pitch takes a photogenic rib of sheaved, curving rock: I remembered this as if it was yesterday, lovely relaxing climbing with the deep gulf of South Gully beyond. The sun was dropping as we lunched, along with the air temperature, so we avoided the continuation wall and scrambled up to the summit: sunny and clear, although a bank of cloud was spilling over the Glyder ridge. I suggested descending North and Little gullies, an old trick of mine, and they enjoyed the continuation of the rock work and directness. A jog down Heather Terrace got us back to the car well before sunset: an efficient little outing.
Sunday, October 29, 2017
Halloween Hellraiser
Race: Halloween Hellraiser XC, Nantwich (10.5m)
Time/Position: 1.11.41 (8th from 125 [2nd V45])
I was staggered to realise it has been seven years since I last did this race, which is an enjoyable tour through the Cheshire countryside, rather like an ultra-long cross-country figure of eight. In 2010, I finished 6th and first Veteran, so was pleased to finish not too far off that today, although I felt rather sluggish throughout. The course is longer than it was, starting through a series of fields which lead to various short road sections and a descent through a graveyard. All the hills are short-lived, and there are several interesting sections, including a field full of frisian cows, good views of Mow Cop, and a horrible ploughed field near the finish. I found myself in a good battle for 7th place, and we both chose to run all the way round the edge of the ploughed field, a lengthy detour! Good fun, and good cakes to round off as I picked up the V45 prize, but only by default as Jez came 2nd.
Time/Position: 1.11.41 (8th from 125 [2nd V45])
I was staggered to realise it has been seven years since I last did this race, which is an enjoyable tour through the Cheshire countryside, rather like an ultra-long cross-country figure of eight. In 2010, I finished 6th and first Veteran, so was pleased to finish not too far off that today, although I felt rather sluggish throughout. The course is longer than it was, starting through a series of fields which lead to various short road sections and a descent through a graveyard. All the hills are short-lived, and there are several interesting sections, including a field full of frisian cows, good views of Mow Cop, and a horrible ploughed field near the finish. I found myself in a good battle for 7th place, and we both chose to run all the way round the edge of the ploughed field, a lengthy detour! Good fun, and good cakes to round off as I picked up the V45 prize, but only by default as Jez came 2nd.
Saturday, October 21, 2017
Llandudno XC
Race: Llandudno 6m (North Wales Cross Country League, race 2)
Time/Position: 38.50 (24th from 159 [2nd V45])
Appalling conditions for the second race of the season, adding a bit of extra spice to this excellent circuit: proper, hard cross country terrain. I'd missed the first race of the season, so this was essential and we set off in driving rain and galeforce winds as 'Storm Brian' hit its peak. After looping the sports fields at St David's College, muddy climbs and descents lead to a dry wooded section before a big and exposed loop over boggy fields to the south. Two giant loops make this a long XC course, particularly so in these trying conditions. I felt pretty good, for a change, although it was very hard to close gaps in the wind and rain. After the finish, completely soaked, I enjoyed a mild dose of hypothermia until we warmed up in the cafe.
Time/Position: 38.50 (24th from 159 [2nd V45])
Appalling conditions for the second race of the season, adding a bit of extra spice to this excellent circuit: proper, hard cross country terrain. I'd missed the first race of the season, so this was essential and we set off in driving rain and galeforce winds as 'Storm Brian' hit its peak. After looping the sports fields at St David's College, muddy climbs and descents lead to a dry wooded section before a big and exposed loop over boggy fields to the south. Two giant loops make this a long XC course, particularly so in these trying conditions. I felt pretty good, for a change, although it was very hard to close gaps in the wind and rain. After the finish, completely soaked, I enjoyed a mild dose of hypothermia until we warmed up in the cafe.
Sunday, October 15, 2017
British Fell Relays
Race: British fell relay championships, Llanberis (Leg 3, navigation)
Time/Position: 1.58.29 (72nd from 181)
An unusual taste of responsibility as I captained the team for the first time, having entered as soon as I heard it was coming back to Llanberis. This was our sixth time at the relays: I've done every one, it is always a great day out and this year we brought a strong team. Steve got us off to a great start on a tough first leg, with Peter and Simon keeping pace on the long second. Andy and I had the nav leg, only the second time I have done this leg (Long Mynd being the first). It does put a bit of pressure on, as a mistake can result in devastating time losses which affect the entire team. As it happens, we did OK but perhaps could have taken slightly more efficient lines at some points. We took a short-cut path through the fields to the first CP on top of the little hill south of the quarries, then went too low around Bryn Mawr to CP2 (although we didn't lose any height). It was then into thick clag and strong winds, slogging up to the summit of Moel Eilio before dropping down to CP3 below Bwlch Cwm Casig on the Betws Garmon side. Herein lay some controversy. We could hear voices in the mist on the Cwellyn side, but the rules made it pretty clear that crossing points had to be used (as is standard on mountain marathons). These were both virtually on the summit. But there was also an obvious illegal short-cut, contouring Eilio on the Cwellyn side with almost no climbing involved. Some teams obviously did that, as we were suddenly joined by lots more runners who effectively overtook us as we dropped out of the mist to CP4 below Foel Gron. The run-in was long but not complex, with no real route choice above Llyn Dwythiwch north to Bwlch y Groes and a fast final descent, ultra boggy, on which Andy cut his leg open after a nasty fall. Adrenalin got him to the finish. Chris then put in a fantastic final leg and we finished 61st overall, just squeezing into the top third of what is always a very high calibre field.
Time/Position: 1.58.29 (72nd from 181)
An unusual taste of responsibility as I captained the team for the first time, having entered as soon as I heard it was coming back to Llanberis. This was our sixth time at the relays: I've done every one, it is always a great day out and this year we brought a strong team. Steve got us off to a great start on a tough first leg, with Peter and Simon keeping pace on the long second. Andy and I had the nav leg, only the second time I have done this leg (Long Mynd being the first). It does put a bit of pressure on, as a mistake can result in devastating time losses which affect the entire team. As it happens, we did OK but perhaps could have taken slightly more efficient lines at some points. We took a short-cut path through the fields to the first CP on top of the little hill south of the quarries, then went too low around Bryn Mawr to CP2 (although we didn't lose any height). It was then into thick clag and strong winds, slogging up to the summit of Moel Eilio before dropping down to CP3 below Bwlch Cwm Casig on the Betws Garmon side. Herein lay some controversy. We could hear voices in the mist on the Cwellyn side, but the rules made it pretty clear that crossing points had to be used (as is standard on mountain marathons). These were both virtually on the summit. But there was also an obvious illegal short-cut, contouring Eilio on the Cwellyn side with almost no climbing involved. Some teams obviously did that, as we were suddenly joined by lots more runners who effectively overtook us as we dropped out of the mist to CP4 below Foel Gron. The run-in was long but not complex, with no real route choice above Llyn Dwythiwch north to Bwlch y Groes and a fast final descent, ultra boggy, on which Andy cut his leg open after a nasty fall. Adrenalin got him to the finish. Chris then put in a fantastic final leg and we finished 61st overall, just squeezing into the top third of what is always a very high calibre field.
Saturday, October 07, 2017
Trefriw Mill fell race
Race: Trefriw Mill (17km/2886ft)
Time/Position: 1.56.36 (9th from 37)
Guilty of slightly underestimating this race, a minor case of familiarity breeding contempt. It is a new, or revived, circuit around an area I know well, heading up from Trefriw to the paths and tracks leading west to Cefn Cyfarwydd. Conditions were quite good: mild with some mist, but generally the cloud base stayed just above the ridge. The long crossing of the complex ridge over Creigiau Gleision is boggy at the best of times, but was waist deep and very arduous today. I fell in three different places between the main Gleision summit and over Craig Wen and Crimpiau: always wonderful views over Cowlyd to the rest of the Carneddau. But, although I know the ridge well and have done it many times, I still managed to underestimate the return leg. After a superb descent down steep grass to Crafnant, I bonked on the way back over the shoulder of Mynydd Deulyn to Geirionydd: no food and a long period of suffering as I staggered along the bouldery and awkward lakeside path. At the last checkpoint, mercifully, two jelly babies materialised: I could therefore regain some kind of pace for the wonderful north and east above the Crafnant valley and down to the Conwy valley and the abrupt finish in Trefriw.
Time/Position: 1.56.36 (9th from 37)
Guilty of slightly underestimating this race, a minor case of familiarity breeding contempt. It is a new, or revived, circuit around an area I know well, heading up from Trefriw to the paths and tracks leading west to Cefn Cyfarwydd. Conditions were quite good: mild with some mist, but generally the cloud base stayed just above the ridge. The long crossing of the complex ridge over Creigiau Gleision is boggy at the best of times, but was waist deep and very arduous today. I fell in three different places between the main Gleision summit and over Craig Wen and Crimpiau: always wonderful views over Cowlyd to the rest of the Carneddau. But, although I know the ridge well and have done it many times, I still managed to underestimate the return leg. After a superb descent down steep grass to Crafnant, I bonked on the way back over the shoulder of Mynydd Deulyn to Geirionydd: no food and a long period of suffering as I staggered along the bouldery and awkward lakeside path. At the last checkpoint, mercifully, two jelly babies materialised: I could therefore regain some kind of pace for the wonderful north and east above the Crafnant valley and down to the Conwy valley and the abrupt finish in Trefriw.
Friday, October 06, 2017
Tryfan scramble
Peak: Tryfan
Routes: V Buttress (M:sol), Notch Arete (M:led p.1+3), Zig Zag (M:sol)
My old friend and climbing partner Tim was back from NZ for his first visit in five years. A special occasion but time was tight meaning that we weren't able to start until well after 3pm, which is hardly ideal for a mountain day in October! Relaxed scrambling was the order of the day, in rather cool weather with high, milky cloud. I suggested a route up the west face of Tryfan and repeated the scramble that I'd taken John up a couple of years ago. A slog to the base of V Buttress, which is a pleasant if rather brief scramble. We roped up for an exposed section at the top, then slogged over to the delightful Notch Arete which we pitched. This is a lovely route on the border of scrambling and climbing, on magnificent rock, and allows for full relaxation and chat. Then it was up the North Ridge, nostalgic for expat Tim, and down via the Heather Terrace and a final route up the right-hand side of Tryfan Bach. Nostalgia was the order of the day, as we'd paired up many times to cut our teeth on Tryfan in the late 80s and early 90s.
Routes: V Buttress (M:sol), Notch Arete (M:led p.1+3), Zig Zag (M:sol)
My old friend and climbing partner Tim was back from NZ for his first visit in five years. A special occasion but time was tight meaning that we weren't able to start until well after 3pm, which is hardly ideal for a mountain day in October! Relaxed scrambling was the order of the day, in rather cool weather with high, milky cloud. I suggested a route up the west face of Tryfan and repeated the scramble that I'd taken John up a couple of years ago. A slog to the base of V Buttress, which is a pleasant if rather brief scramble. We roped up for an exposed section at the top, then slogged over to the delightful Notch Arete which we pitched. This is a lovely route on the border of scrambling and climbing, on magnificent rock, and allows for full relaxation and chat. Then it was up the North Ridge, nostalgic for expat Tim, and down via the Heather Terrace and a final route up the right-hand side of Tryfan Bach. Nostalgia was the order of the day, as we'd paired up many times to cut our teeth on Tryfan in the late 80s and early 90s.
Wednesday, October 04, 2017
Trevor climbing
Crag: Trevor Rocks, Eglwyseg
Routes: Disappearing Act (f5a:led), Clue, So (f4c:led), Suspect Device (f6a+:led), Innocence (f5c:led), Crime Scene (f6b:sec)
Cold winds and drizzle threatening: a familiar scene as I arrived direct from work for a brief late season session. After failing on the crux of the horrible No Remittal, with greasy rock and numb hands up an apparent one-armed mantel move, I led up the f5 corner done numerous times before. The easy arete to its right (Clue, So) is perhaps the most climbed route in the entire area: I remember doing it when it was first bolted over 10 years ago, and thinking it quite pleasant by the standards of British limestone. It is now polished to a high sheen, an illustration of the paucity of such routes locally. Much better was Suspect Device, which allowed me to salvage some pride after failing on the baffling mantel further right. This went easily up to the break, then a hard move on small but distinct holds allows a high step on to the nice upper wall - this is rough and textured, and gives good climbing. The rain started in earnest as I set out up the 6b of Crime Scene. By the time I reached the crux, it was wet, so I switched to the top part of Innocence, two grades easier but still tricky in the wet. We both seconded the 6b, enjoying its technicalities despite the wet and cold: autumn has well and truly arrived.
Routes: Disappearing Act (f5a:led), Clue, So (f4c:led), Suspect Device (f6a+:led), Innocence (f5c:led), Crime Scene (f6b:sec)
Cold winds and drizzle threatening: a familiar scene as I arrived direct from work for a brief late season session. After failing on the crux of the horrible No Remittal, with greasy rock and numb hands up an apparent one-armed mantel move, I led up the f5 corner done numerous times before. The easy arete to its right (Clue, So) is perhaps the most climbed route in the entire area: I remember doing it when it was first bolted over 10 years ago, and thinking it quite pleasant by the standards of British limestone. It is now polished to a high sheen, an illustration of the paucity of such routes locally. Much better was Suspect Device, which allowed me to salvage some pride after failing on the baffling mantel further right. This went easily up to the break, then a hard move on small but distinct holds allows a high step on to the nice upper wall - this is rough and textured, and gives good climbing. The rain started in earnest as I set out up the 6b of Crime Scene. By the time I reached the crux, it was wet, so I switched to the top part of Innocence, two grades easier but still tricky in the wet. We both seconded the 6b, enjoying its technicalities despite the wet and cold: autumn has well and truly arrived.
Sunday, October 01, 2017
Capenhurst Border League
Race: Capenhurst 5m (Border League race 1)
Time/Position: 28.56 (29th from 385)
After having a reasonably good run at the 5k here in August, I was surprised to look down at my watch towards the finish to see such a slow time: my worst finishing position in the league for many years. Thought I might be regaining a bit of speed after the lay-off, but that proved a forlorn hope. Quite a quick start, as competitive as it has ever been: my 12th season in the league. A very fast first mile made me think it might have been measured wrong, but none of us really blew so the slow time is just that, slow. Buckley in first place in division 1 after this opener, hardly surprising with such huge numbers of new runners joining.
Time/Position: 28.56 (29th from 385)
After having a reasonably good run at the 5k here in August, I was surprised to look down at my watch towards the finish to see such a slow time: my worst finishing position in the league for many years. Thought I might be regaining a bit of speed after the lay-off, but that proved a forlorn hope. Quite a quick start, as competitive as it has ever been: my 12th season in the league. A very fast first mile made me think it might have been measured wrong, but none of us really blew so the slow time is just that, slow. Buckley in first place in division 1 after this opener, hardly surprising with such huge numbers of new runners joining.
Friday, September 29, 2017
Tremadog climbing
Crag: Bwlch y Moch, Tremadog
Routes: Christmas Curry (S:led p.1+2), Micah Eliminate (HS 4b:sec), Cynhyrchwyr (VS 4b,4b:led p.1), Borneo (VS 4c:sec)
To call Christmas Curry an old favourite is an understatement: I first did it in 1992 and last did it in April this year. After merging the first two pitches, Vic led the superior Micah Eliminate finish. We had Steve on board, hence our choice of this much travelled route, and we both simul-climbed with me able to give him a few pointers - as this was only his third or fourth experience of trad climbing. As a result, I had plenty of time to savour the moves and positions. A heavy shower made life a tad tricky, as did high winds when rounding the upper arete. After lunch, we moved right to try to find the obscure area around the ramp line of Borneo, recently salvaged from the vegetation. We had never climbed here before, and I led the wet first pitch of Cynhyrchwyr to begin our exploration. We've had a lot of rain recently, and this gets little sun: although it was easy and slabby, it was insecure. Two thin cracks, greasy and slimy, led to a drier and easier section. Above, glorious sunshine and easy padding to a gentle crack: this is possibly the top pitch of the neighbouring HS Rio, as it didn't feel VS. To the left, Borneo takes the obvious ramp line and is a route of some character. Most of it is slabby and easy, if a tad dirty. But there is a tricky slab at half height with technical moves up the corner then right to avoid a steepening. The crux comes at the end: a wet corner with undercut and interesting moves out right.
Routes: Christmas Curry (S:led p.1+2), Micah Eliminate (HS 4b:sec), Cynhyrchwyr (VS 4b,4b:led p.1), Borneo (VS 4c:sec)
To call Christmas Curry an old favourite is an understatement: I first did it in 1992 and last did it in April this year. After merging the first two pitches, Vic led the superior Micah Eliminate finish. We had Steve on board, hence our choice of this much travelled route, and we both simul-climbed with me able to give him a few pointers - as this was only his third or fourth experience of trad climbing. As a result, I had plenty of time to savour the moves and positions. A heavy shower made life a tad tricky, as did high winds when rounding the upper arete. After lunch, we moved right to try to find the obscure area around the ramp line of Borneo, recently salvaged from the vegetation. We had never climbed here before, and I led the wet first pitch of Cynhyrchwyr to begin our exploration. We've had a lot of rain recently, and this gets little sun: although it was easy and slabby, it was insecure. Two thin cracks, greasy and slimy, led to a drier and easier section. Above, glorious sunshine and easy padding to a gentle crack: this is possibly the top pitch of the neighbouring HS Rio, as it didn't feel VS. To the left, Borneo takes the obvious ramp line and is a route of some character. Most of it is slabby and easy, if a tad dirty. But there is a tricky slab at half height with technical moves up the corner then right to avoid a steepening. The crux comes at the end: a wet corner with undercut and interesting moves out right.
Tuesday, September 26, 2017
Wirral Multi-Terrain Series, Arrowe Park
Race: Wirral MT Series, Arrowe Park (Birkenhead)
Time/Position: 27.24 (16th from 207 [2nd V45])
Having missed all the other races in this series, this was just an inconsequential run-out to stretch the legs. I felt OK, but my time was way down on last year's time, and even further down on 2015, when I won my age category in this excellent series and did all four races. Having said that, conditions were much muddier today, with the opening field a quagmire and some other cloying patches. The second lap always gets quite dark in the woods as dusk gathers, giving the illusion of speed (illusion being the operative word with present form).
Time/Position: 27.24 (16th from 207 [2nd V45])
Having missed all the other races in this series, this was just an inconsequential run-out to stretch the legs. I felt OK, but my time was way down on last year's time, and even further down on 2015, when I won my age category in this excellent series and did all four races. Having said that, conditions were much muddier today, with the opening field a quagmire and some other cloying patches. The second lap always gets quite dark in the woods as dusk gathers, giving the illusion of speed (illusion being the operative word with present form).
Saturday, September 23, 2017
Chester Parkrun
'Race': Chester Parkrun (5k)
Time/Position: 18.12 (4th from 242)
Just an experiment to see how slow my legs are after a two week travelling lay-off, one of my longest ever. The answer was: very sluggish indeed. Conditions were dank and drizzly, which makes the double off-road section unhelpfully slippery. I felt fairly rough on the second lap, and finished well over a minute down on the Capenhurst time I recorded just over a month ago.
Time/Position: 18.12 (4th from 242)
Just an experiment to see how slow my legs are after a two week travelling lay-off, one of my longest ever. The answer was: very sluggish indeed. Conditions were dank and drizzly, which makes the double off-road section unhelpfully slippery. I felt fairly rough on the second lap, and finished well over a minute down on the Capenhurst time I recorded just over a month ago.
Monday, September 11, 2017
Poonagala run
Peak: Lipton's Seat/Poonagala (1950m)
Area: Haputale, Sri Lanka
A well known walk through the tea plantations from the Dambetenna factory above Haputale. It also lent itself to a running approach, although it was hardly the conventional way to do it! After taking the train to Haputale from Kandy yesterday, standing up for six hours on one of the world's best rail journeys, I spent the morning walking to Adisham in perfect weather, then got an ancient bus up through the mist to Dambetenna. From here, a narrow road twists through the tea plantations, incredibly scenic and atmospheric as the mist continually rolled in then occasionally lifted to show glimpses of distant hills and villages. It continues at a gentle gradient for 7km, perfect for running actually, and reaches the famed Lipton's Seat - supposedly the favourite viewpoint of colonial tea magnate Thomas Lipton. It was, inevitably, misty - which was why I'd taken advantage of the clear weather first thing this morning to go to Adisham (I would never have reached this point in time - the mist comes down very early). A tea shack was open on the summit of Poonagala: I had a wonderfully restorative cuppa and selected from a tray of Sri Lankan 'tapas'. Fresh warm rotis, sambal, and a selection of vadai. I was just pondering another roti when I spied a young Macaque monkey in the vegetation below. As I pondered how to protect the food, he immediately leapt over the wall and took the remaining three rotis: calibrating his jump precisely before I'd had a chance to cover the food. Admirable and ingenious. The ambience up here, at 2000m, was wonderful, and I spent some time enjoying the peace before the cold sent me jogging back down to Dambetenna and a chaotic bus back to Haputale.
Area: Haputale, Sri Lanka
A well known walk through the tea plantations from the Dambetenna factory above Haputale. It also lent itself to a running approach, although it was hardly the conventional way to do it! After taking the train to Haputale from Kandy yesterday, standing up for six hours on one of the world's best rail journeys, I spent the morning walking to Adisham in perfect weather, then got an ancient bus up through the mist to Dambetenna. From here, a narrow road twists through the tea plantations, incredibly scenic and atmospheric as the mist continually rolled in then occasionally lifted to show glimpses of distant hills and villages. It continues at a gentle gradient for 7km, perfect for running actually, and reaches the famed Lipton's Seat - supposedly the favourite viewpoint of colonial tea magnate Thomas Lipton. It was, inevitably, misty - which was why I'd taken advantage of the clear weather first thing this morning to go to Adisham (I would never have reached this point in time - the mist comes down very early). A tea shack was open on the summit of Poonagala: I had a wonderfully restorative cuppa and selected from a tray of Sri Lankan 'tapas'. Fresh warm rotis, sambal, and a selection of vadai. I was just pondering another roti when I spied a young Macaque monkey in the vegetation below. As I pondered how to protect the food, he immediately leapt over the wall and took the remaining three rotis: calibrating his jump precisely before I'd had a chance to cover the food. Admirable and ingenious. The ambience up here, at 2000m, was wonderful, and I spent some time enjoying the peace before the cold sent me jogging back down to Dambetenna and a chaotic bus back to Haputale.
Sunday, September 03, 2017
Caernarfon 10k
Race: Caernarfon 10k (North Wales Championships)
Time/Position: 35.56 (8th from 156 [2nd V45])
Although I was quite pleased to dip under 36 minutes on this hilly course, in wet and rather windy conditions, it was a shame that I blew up completely in the last kilometre. Not surprising, really, given the obvious lack of speed endurance: plenty of slow endurance, and plenty of short speedwork, but not much suitable for the specific demands of a 10k. That said, I've done more than 50 10k's in the past, so should have some idea about pacing! The route was reversed, which makes it slightly easier, with a sharp hill at the start and a few more steep climbs heading west. A headwind at times, with small groups forming and breaking, then the fast descent going through 5k in 18.07. A cross-tailwind didn't have a great deal of effect on the fast run along the coastal path back to Caernarfon. I moved up into sixth place, finishing strongly (initially) before blowing right at the end where I was pushed back into eighth place, missing out on the category win by 6 seconds. I always enjoy this course though: must have done it 7 or 8 times in both directions.
Time/Position: 35.56 (8th from 156 [2nd V45])
Although I was quite pleased to dip under 36 minutes on this hilly course, in wet and rather windy conditions, it was a shame that I blew up completely in the last kilometre. Not surprising, really, given the obvious lack of speed endurance: plenty of slow endurance, and plenty of short speedwork, but not much suitable for the specific demands of a 10k. That said, I've done more than 50 10k's in the past, so should have some idea about pacing! The route was reversed, which makes it slightly easier, with a sharp hill at the start and a few more steep climbs heading west. A headwind at times, with small groups forming and breaking, then the fast descent going through 5k in 18.07. A cross-tailwind didn't have a great deal of effect on the fast run along the coastal path back to Caernarfon. I moved up into sixth place, finishing strongly (initially) before blowing right at the end where I was pushed back into eighth place, missing out on the category win by 6 seconds. I always enjoy this course though: must have done it 7 or 8 times in both directions.
Saturday, September 02, 2017
Pot Hole Quarry climbing
Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: Grizzly (HVS 5a:sec), Major (HVS 5a:sec), Vetta (HVS 5a:sec), Ego Variant (E3:sh), Vetta Variation (E3 5c:sec), Ceba (E1 5b:sec), Canine Meander (E2 5b:sec), The Dog (HVS 5b:sec), Right Wall (E2 5c:sec)
Just the usual top-roped training workout on all the old favourites: the only differences being an eliminate version of Ego and a messy ascent of the very hard Vetta Variation. As ever, the two vague eliminate lines of Right Wall and Canine Meander now give the best climbing: much less polished, sharp holds and good friction.
Routes: Grizzly (HVS 5a:sec), Major (HVS 5a:sec), Vetta (HVS 5a:sec), Ego Variant (E3:sh), Vetta Variation (E3 5c:sec), Ceba (E1 5b:sec), Canine Meander (E2 5b:sec), The Dog (HVS 5b:sec), Right Wall (E2 5c:sec)
Just the usual top-roped training workout on all the old favourites: the only differences being an eliminate version of Ego and a messy ascent of the very hard Vetta Variation. As ever, the two vague eliminate lines of Right Wall and Canine Meander now give the best climbing: much less polished, sharp holds and good friction.
Friday, September 01, 2017
Clogwyn Cyrau climbing
Crag: Clogwyn Cyrau, Betws y Coed
Routes: The Groove (VD:sol), Direct Route (VS 5a:sh), Pryderi (VS 4c:sh), Gwydion (VS 4c:sh), Wanderer (HS 4b:sol/sh), Sion (S:sol/sh), Sian (VD:sol/sh), Little Chimney (VD:sol), Siencyn (S:des), Groove Left Wall (S 4a:sh)
A few hours to myself after a night in Llandudno, so headed up to Clogwyn Cyrau for a bit of climbing. After romping up the simple Groove, I shunted all the routes on the steeper front face of the crag overlooking Betws: not entirely convinced I have done these before. They are nice routes, much cleaner and drier than the slimy and massively polished climbs further left. Direct Route is steep to start, and Pryderi and Gwydion both take natural lines - thin cracks, not too polished. A little light rain fell, but nothing serious, and after working through numerous short routes I jogged back down for a couple of hot pies in the park.
Routes: The Groove (VD:sol), Direct Route (VS 5a:sh), Pryderi (VS 4c:sh), Gwydion (VS 4c:sh), Wanderer (HS 4b:sol/sh), Sion (S:sol/sh), Sian (VD:sol/sh), Little Chimney (VD:sol), Siencyn (S:des), Groove Left Wall (S 4a:sh)
A few hours to myself after a night in Llandudno, so headed up to Clogwyn Cyrau for a bit of climbing. After romping up the simple Groove, I shunted all the routes on the steeper front face of the crag overlooking Betws: not entirely convinced I have done these before. They are nice routes, much cleaner and drier than the slimy and massively polished climbs further left. Direct Route is steep to start, and Pryderi and Gwydion both take natural lines - thin cracks, not too polished. A little light rain fell, but nothing serious, and after working through numerous short routes I jogged back down for a couple of hot pies in the park.
Thursday, August 31, 2017
Cwm Llafur scramble and run
Peaks: Carnedd Dafydd, Yr Elen
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
A version of the Cwm Llafur horseshoe, last done in superb snowy conditions in early January, incorporating the Llech Ddu spur. After dropping Kate at work and a coffee in the Puffin cafe, I parked in lower Gerlan and ran up the lanes to the start of the Black Ladders path. This is very boggy initially, but the scenery is the essence of Welshness in this little area, I always think. After the branch off for the walking path to Dafydd, the path becomes dry and flat: and gives excellent fast running towards the impressive headwall of the Cwm, one of the finest in Wales. Llech Ddu rises in front, with Ysgolion Duon (Black Ladders) beyond. I have done the Llech Ddu/Crib Lem scramble a few times over the years, but less than the other classics: it is remote and superbly situated. But the last two visits to these parts were for winter routes on the Black Ladders. A small path leads up Cwmglas Bach and eventually cuts left above the top of Llech Ddu to gain the start of the rocky spur that initiates the scramble. It was soaking wet throughout, but at least the rain stopped while I was on it - cold hands but enjoyable climbing throughout. A good run along the ridge, less tired than I was at the same point on Monday, before branching off for the contouring path that we'd taken 64 hours earlier on our 3000s run - I could clearly see our Innov8 footprints in the mud! At the top of Yr Elen, the rain began again in earnest and I got a right soaking as I ran down the excellent ridge to plunge into the dense vegetation at the base of Cwm Llafur. By the time I reached the car in Gerlan I was soaked and cold: a foretaste of winter as my numb hands fumbled with the car keys.
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
A version of the Cwm Llafur horseshoe, last done in superb snowy conditions in early January, incorporating the Llech Ddu spur. After dropping Kate at work and a coffee in the Puffin cafe, I parked in lower Gerlan and ran up the lanes to the start of the Black Ladders path. This is very boggy initially, but the scenery is the essence of Welshness in this little area, I always think. After the branch off for the walking path to Dafydd, the path becomes dry and flat: and gives excellent fast running towards the impressive headwall of the Cwm, one of the finest in Wales. Llech Ddu rises in front, with Ysgolion Duon (Black Ladders) beyond. I have done the Llech Ddu/Crib Lem scramble a few times over the years, but less than the other classics: it is remote and superbly situated. But the last two visits to these parts were for winter routes on the Black Ladders. A small path leads up Cwmglas Bach and eventually cuts left above the top of Llech Ddu to gain the start of the rocky spur that initiates the scramble. It was soaking wet throughout, but at least the rain stopped while I was on it - cold hands but enjoyable climbing throughout. A good run along the ridge, less tired than I was at the same point on Monday, before branching off for the contouring path that we'd taken 64 hours earlier on our 3000s run - I could clearly see our Innov8 footprints in the mud! At the top of Yr Elen, the rain began again in earnest and I got a right soaking as I ran down the excellent ridge to plunge into the dense vegetation at the base of Cwm Llafur. By the time I reached the car in Gerlan I was soaked and cold: a foretaste of winter as my numb hands fumbled with the car keys.
Wednesday, August 30, 2017
Trevor climbing
Crag: Trevor Rocks, Eglwyseg
Routes: Impaction (f5:sec), Opening Impact (f6b:sec), No Evasion (f5:led), Sudden Impact (f4:led), Impact Imminent (f6b:sec)
One of the least distinguished areas on this undistinguished crag, but these routes at least gave a bit of entertainment before heading to the office. Opening Impact is short but hard at the grade, and No Evasion has a high first bolt: I'd done all the other routes before. Andy and Hayley carried on climbing, but I had to head to work before mid-morning.
Routes: Impaction (f5:sec), Opening Impact (f6b:sec), No Evasion (f5:led), Sudden Impact (f4:led), Impact Imminent (f6b:sec)
One of the least distinguished areas on this undistinguished crag, but these routes at least gave a bit of entertainment before heading to the office. Opening Impact is short but hard at the grade, and No Evasion has a high first bolt: I'd done all the other routes before. Andy and Hayley carried on climbing, but I had to head to work before mid-morning.
Monday, August 28, 2017
Welsh 3000s
Peaks: Yr Wyddfa, Crib y Ddisgyl, Crib Goch, Elidir Fawr, Y Garn, Glyder Fawr, Glyder Fach, Tryfan, Pen yr Olau Wen, Carnedd Dafydd, Yr Elen, Carnedd Llewellyn, Foel Grach, Carnedd Gwenllian, Foel Fras
Time: 8.38
The finest Welsh mountain day of all, but only the second time I've done it. This is partly due to the awkward logistics, although running it is far easier and less complex than walking: indeed, we only decided to do it on Friday night. In 2003, it was planned for several months: we had support team and various other advantages when I walked it with Steve and company, and it took 15 hours from Crib Goch to Foel Fras. This time Peter, Jez and I did it in purist fashion: no support, and walking up Snowdon first (the true start of the classic route, harder than starting up Crib Goch). It is such an aesthetic, varied and logical line, nothing arbitrary about it, that it is surprising that it seems to be falling out of favour slightly. Pen y Pass was rammed when we arrived at 1am! I can only assume these were the dreaded, rather contemptible 'three peak' challengers: whatever they were, vans arrived all night and we had a couple of hours sleep at best before ambling up Snowdon at 6am for the true start of the 3000s (which is traditionally timed from the top of Snowdon to the top of Foel Fras). The weather was dire: thick clag, rain and 35mph westerlies that we just knew were waiting to batter us as we crested the ridge by the obelisk above the zigzags. Even at our ambling pace, we were on top of Snowdon in well under an hour. Touching the cairn, we set off running down the main path to the branch off towards Crib y Ddisgyl (Garnedd Ugain). It was pretty obvious that the ridge would be awkward in the high winds, and the rock was soaking - not ideal in old fell running shoes. Fine for Peter and I, not so fine for Jez, who does not have a climbing or mountaineering background. In the event, he was fine as we enjoyed the initial rocky ridge down to Crib Goch, with the first pinnacle looming through the mist. After a few pointers, Jez negotiated this without any problems and the rest of the ridge was completed without issues, although the wind and the rain slowed us down considerably. The North Ridge, down from the summit, is also awkward in these conditions, and we then had the trickiest nav on the route to do in claggy conditions. We cut north-west down the screes, then went a tad too far west as we descended grassy slopes to emerge above Llyn Glas. This was far from the optimal line, but not too disastrous as it leads to a good path which I knew well from previous visits to Cwm Glas for winter routes and the like. Down past Cyrn Las and a spectacular but brief clearance over the pass, then the road at Blaen y Nant. Quick running down the pass to Nant Peris and then the dreadful climb up Elidir Fawr. Almost certainly the day's lowpoint, we'd done this on last September's memorable Elidir Fawr race and remembered all the tiny shortcuts. The climb is endless, but at least we had the superb run over Bwlch y Brechan to Y Garn to look forward to. Conditions continued dire: cold, wet and windy. Indeed, Y Garn was an unexpected and unanticipated lowpoint for me. It didn't last, though, and we picked up the pace down to Llyn y Cwn and up the steep screes to Glyder Fawr. Careful nav across the plateau, always tricky in clag, to the scramble up Glyder Fach, then down the side of Bristly Ridge where the weather finally, and spectacularly, cleared eompletely: superb conditions for the rest of the day. Within five minutes, it was warm and the wind had dropped: dry rock for the scramble up Tryfan and down the western gully to Ogwen. I descended more quickly than the other two and pelted down to Ogwen cottage for the psychologically crucial hot pie I had been looking forward to! Along with a coke and crisps, it represented rebirth, and we all flew up the first section of the notorious slog up Pen yr Olau Wen: only 51 minutes from Ogwen to summit. It is all over bar the shouting then, and I was surprised to have very good legs for the rest of the day - just a few minutes over the top of Dafydd then above the Black Ladders to the crucial traverse path to Yr Elen, which includes a welcome water source. Back over Carnedd Llewellyn, fine and fast despite the sharp climb, then the wonderful final leg - all runnable - over Foel Grach and Carnedd Gwenllian to Foel Fras. Not a fast time (8.38 is closer to Thomas Firbank than Colin Donnelly!) but we weren't trying to push it, just to enjoy the day. With a ride up Snowdon, better conditions for the first half, and a better line down to Blaen y Nant, perhaps 90 minutes could be taken off. Given that I've spent the summer training for 1500m and 5k, I was just surprised to have the legs: although the big days in Scotland, the Alps and the Lakes obviously also helped, the benefits of my usual ultra-varied approach. An easy stroll down to Llyn Anafon and the car, back to pick up the car at Pen y Pass and a quick recovery pint in the Vaynol.
Time: 8.38
The finest Welsh mountain day of all, but only the second time I've done it. This is partly due to the awkward logistics, although running it is far easier and less complex than walking: indeed, we only decided to do it on Friday night. In 2003, it was planned for several months: we had support team and various other advantages when I walked it with Steve and company, and it took 15 hours from Crib Goch to Foel Fras. This time Peter, Jez and I did it in purist fashion: no support, and walking up Snowdon first (the true start of the classic route, harder than starting up Crib Goch). It is such an aesthetic, varied and logical line, nothing arbitrary about it, that it is surprising that it seems to be falling out of favour slightly. Pen y Pass was rammed when we arrived at 1am! I can only assume these were the dreaded, rather contemptible 'three peak' challengers: whatever they were, vans arrived all night and we had a couple of hours sleep at best before ambling up Snowdon at 6am for the true start of the 3000s (which is traditionally timed from the top of Snowdon to the top of Foel Fras). The weather was dire: thick clag, rain and 35mph westerlies that we just knew were waiting to batter us as we crested the ridge by the obelisk above the zigzags. Even at our ambling pace, we were on top of Snowdon in well under an hour. Touching the cairn, we set off running down the main path to the branch off towards Crib y Ddisgyl (Garnedd Ugain). It was pretty obvious that the ridge would be awkward in the high winds, and the rock was soaking - not ideal in old fell running shoes. Fine for Peter and I, not so fine for Jez, who does not have a climbing or mountaineering background. In the event, he was fine as we enjoyed the initial rocky ridge down to Crib Goch, with the first pinnacle looming through the mist. After a few pointers, Jez negotiated this without any problems and the rest of the ridge was completed without issues, although the wind and the rain slowed us down considerably. The North Ridge, down from the summit, is also awkward in these conditions, and we then had the trickiest nav on the route to do in claggy conditions. We cut north-west down the screes, then went a tad too far west as we descended grassy slopes to emerge above Llyn Glas. This was far from the optimal line, but not too disastrous as it leads to a good path which I knew well from previous visits to Cwm Glas for winter routes and the like. Down past Cyrn Las and a spectacular but brief clearance over the pass, then the road at Blaen y Nant. Quick running down the pass to Nant Peris and then the dreadful climb up Elidir Fawr. Almost certainly the day's lowpoint, we'd done this on last September's memorable Elidir Fawr race and remembered all the tiny shortcuts. The climb is endless, but at least we had the superb run over Bwlch y Brechan to Y Garn to look forward to. Conditions continued dire: cold, wet and windy. Indeed, Y Garn was an unexpected and unanticipated lowpoint for me. It didn't last, though, and we picked up the pace down to Llyn y Cwn and up the steep screes to Glyder Fawr. Careful nav across the plateau, always tricky in clag, to the scramble up Glyder Fach, then down the side of Bristly Ridge where the weather finally, and spectacularly, cleared eompletely: superb conditions for the rest of the day. Within five minutes, it was warm and the wind had dropped: dry rock for the scramble up Tryfan and down the western gully to Ogwen. I descended more quickly than the other two and pelted down to Ogwen cottage for the psychologically crucial hot pie I had been looking forward to! Along with a coke and crisps, it represented rebirth, and we all flew up the first section of the notorious slog up Pen yr Olau Wen: only 51 minutes from Ogwen to summit. It is all over bar the shouting then, and I was surprised to have very good legs for the rest of the day - just a few minutes over the top of Dafydd then above the Black Ladders to the crucial traverse path to Yr Elen, which includes a welcome water source. Back over Carnedd Llewellyn, fine and fast despite the sharp climb, then the wonderful final leg - all runnable - over Foel Grach and Carnedd Gwenllian to Foel Fras. Not a fast time (8.38 is closer to Thomas Firbank than Colin Donnelly!) but we weren't trying to push it, just to enjoy the day. With a ride up Snowdon, better conditions for the first half, and a better line down to Blaen y Nant, perhaps 90 minutes could be taken off. Given that I've spent the summer training for 1500m and 5k, I was just surprised to have the legs: although the big days in Scotland, the Alps and the Lakes obviously also helped, the benefits of my usual ultra-varied approach. An easy stroll down to Llyn Anafon and the car, back to pick up the car at Pen y Pass and a quick recovery pint in the Vaynol.
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