Saturday, September 08, 2012

Moel Wnion fell race

Race: Ras Moel Wnion (British Championships)
Time/Position: 45:47 (41st from 98)
Perhaps the strongest field I've ever competed in, after 260 or so races. I remember doing some British Championship races many years ago, but I think this was probably more competitive as it was the final race of the season. It was also a Welsh Champs counter, and unfortunately I had to do it because of my disastrous error at Mynydd Troed in April - which rendered my score effectively null and void. The start today, from the fields above Aber, was relentless - going up the track to the west of the Foel Fras race descent. Quite demoralising as I found myself well down the field, feeling very rough, to make matters worse! I struggled all the way up the climb, suffering in the heat (a sunny and hot day for once) and not going at all well. The plateau at the top was a little better, and the usual tremendous sea views enlivened the return trip, as did the views of the Carneddau. Predictably, however, I lost even more places on a very sluggish descent and recorded my lowest finishing position for at least six years, barely squeezing into the top half of the field. I remember doing the old Moel Wnion race in 2007, but that went up from Rachub and included a cracking descent which took in Moel Faban.

Sunday, September 02, 2012

Caernarfon 10k

Race: Caernarfon 10k (Welsh 10k Championships)
Time/Position: 36:00 (14th from 201 [2nd V40])
Although this was my slowest 10k for almost three years, I was quite pleased with the performance having been selected to run for North Wales again this year. As with my last appearance in Cardiff 2010, the timing of the Welsh 10k Championships presents a bit of a conundrum: after a summer racing and climbing in the mountains, how do you convert effectively to road without doing any proper speed work? I haven't worked out a solution, so this went as well as could be expected. I felt far more comfortable than at Capenhurst last week: after a quickish first km (3:18) I got into a small coherent group and we plodded along the seafront around 30m behind the tight lead group. Worked a bit with Jez into a light headwind, but (knowing the course well from the border league) I was concentrating on saving energy for the tough second half. After a sharp hill I hit the 5k point at 18:00, the slow pace some reassurance that I wouldn't blow on the second half. In the event, I kept exactly the same pace going over all the hills, and passed a couple of runners on the final sharp climb after 8k. Shame there were no other regional teams present, as our North Wales Veterans team put in a decent performance. We ended up winning the gold medal by default, and I came away with category silver in the Welsh and North Wales Championships.

Monday, August 27, 2012

Moel Famau fell race

Race: Cilcain Mountain Race (5m/1237ft/AS)
Time/Position: 36.37 (7th from 181 [4th V40])
A disappointing minute slower than last year: I could blame a strong headwind near the summit, or unusually heavy going underfoot, but these excuses would be clutching at straws. I initially thought it was my 10th consecutive running of the race, and therefore an anniversary of sorts, but think I must have missed a year - 2004 probably. Even so, the usual good weather failed to materialise this year, and we made our way up in windy and damp conditions. I wore my mudclaws, the weight penalty and consequent slow climb ironing itself out with a quicker than usual descent. I failed to gain more than a couple of places, but did at least find some energy for the final climb back to the finish.

Wednesday, August 22, 2012

Capenhurst 5k

Race: Capenhurst 5k
Time/Position: 17:04 (26th from 229 [6th V40])
An extraordinarily strong field for this quick 5k this year. In 2010 I ran 5 seconds quicker than this, finished 12th overall and won the V40 prize. This year was a different story, as at least 30 runners stormed off for a painfully fast first mile. I was really suffering, shocked by the pace after a summer in the hills - as always - and struggled to keep up with both John's initially. However, I recovered a bit when the route heads for home after 3k and managed to pick the pace up and gain a few places. Not many though, as the event felt far more competitive even than the average border league fixture and I finished way down the field. A fast, flat 5k is perhaps the ultimate contrast with Sunday's 22 peak 14 hour odyssey? I'd only had 72 hours to recover, so with luck I'll be a bit less tired for the Welsh Champs 10k next week!

Sunday, August 19, 2012

Tranter's Round variant

Peaks: Mullach nan Coirean (939m), Stob Ban (999m), Stob Coire a’Mhail (990m), Sgurr a’Mhaim (1099m), Sgurr an Iubhair (1001m), Am Bodach (1032m), Stob Coire a Chairn (981m), An Garbhanach (975m), An Gearanach (982m), Na Gruagaichean (1056m), Binnein Mor (1130m), Sgurr Eilde Mor (1010m), Binnein Beag (943m), Stob Ban (977m), Stob Choire Claurigh (1177m), Stob a’Choire Leith (1105m), Stob Coire Cath na Sine (1079m), Caisteal (1106m), Stob Coire an Laoigh (1116m), Stob Coire Easain (1080m), Sgurr Choinnich Mor (1094m)
Area: Mamores/Grey Corries, Lochaber
Perhaps a bit more honest to call this 'Tranter's Lite', as we missed the crucial final section up Ben Nevis. I've held a vague plan to do a version of Tranter's for some time: as big rounds go, it's quite short and achievable. Peter was keen to go for the full job, and we set this weekend as the only possible mutually suitable date. As such, I never really thought it would come off, given the usual August weather in the area. However, remarkably, my weather luck (which has held all year) continued yet again, and we headed up to Glen Nevis on Saturday afternoon and slept in the car boot for a couple of hours before waking at 4am. A bad start caused by sloppy headtorch navigation and a desire for directness saw us crashing through very steep conifer forests on the side of the glen leading up from Polldubh - but we still reached the summit of the Mullach in 70 minutes. Superb views as the sun began to peek through the clouds above Ben Alder to the east. Wonderful low sunshine lit the ridge as we ran towards Stob Ban and my first ever repeated Munro (I'd nipped up during an astonishingly unproductive and lazy teenage week with Steve back in 1989!). It's a nice peak, rocky and distinctive. Great running down to Lochain Coire nam Miseach before a steep rise gains the Devil's Ridge. This is an annoying but superb appendage to the main Mamore traverse, and had to be done, so we dumped sacks before enjoying the excellent narrow ridge with good scrambling over a subsidiary summit to the fine peak of Sgurr a'Mhaim. It was all fantastically enjoyable, still only 6.30am with the sunlit ridge giving perfect exposed running, and the entire Mamore ridge completely to ourselves. After a snack, we plodded over Iubhair and up Am Bodach before heading out along another narrow rocky appendage - with steeper initial scrambling - over a superb ridge to An Gearanach. A tiring addition to the main ridge, but these two diversions provide the best views of the day. We were still feeling good at this point, but the weather worsened, with clag drifting over the fine peak of Na Gruigachean during our ascent. This was a shame, as the network of ridges continues excellent over to the parent peak of Binnein Mor, and it looked a bit threatening for a while. Compass work was necessary, which slowed us down a bit. Whilst eating on the small summit of Binnein, however, a small tear in the cloud gave us hope and we ran down the steep east ridge before contouring round towards Sgurr Eilde Beag. The three peaks at the end of the Mamores present an unavoidable conundrum on this round: there is just no easy way of combining them. Sgurr Eilde Mor, in particular, is an outlier separated from the rest of the range. Our solution, to contour round the ridge then drop down to Coire an Lochain, was a good one: but still involved a long climb up shifting scree to gain the summit. Great hill, though, and the sun came out for wonderful wild views over to Ben Alder east. Another massive descent to the valley and we picked up the good path over to Binnean Beag, which looks innocuous from afar, barely worthy of Munro status, but didn't feel innocuous during the climb. This was my lowest ebb all day, but two pork pies perked me up on the summit: from where Stob Ban looks an appallingly distant prospect on the other side of the Water of Nevis. So, all the Mamores were done by lunchtime, ten Munros in total. Now for the Grey Corries! A very steep descent down the northern slopes of Beag, draining and stressful, led to a predictable bog trot along the base of this broad glen to gain the river at the Nevis/Abhainn Rath watershed. A wild and remote location: superb in this weather. We were then faced with a monstrous haul up the side wall of Coire Rath, contouring past numerous red deer to gain the broad col below Stob Ban. This was the crux of the whole outing and it was with some relief that we gained the remote summit of Stob Ban (a long way from the nearest road and a very long way from our car in Glen Nevis). My Innov8s were now almost destroyed, and more splits opened up on the steep scree down to a small lake before ploughing up the south ridge to Stob Coire Claurigh. Peter now began to suffer a bit, after being ahead for most of the Mamores. I was surprised to feel great, however: the path feeling deeply luxurious after the trackless nightmare up Stob Ban. At the top, the ridge along the Grey Corries looked mouthwatering and I couldn't wait to get started, running again over several tops and subsidiary peaks. All of this was wonderful: a remote, magnificent switchback ridge that stays high throughout. I enjoyed every minute and still felt good for the much steeper trudge up the fine peak of Sgurr Choinnich Mor: which feels separate to the rest of the Grey Corries but is a beautiful peak. From here we contoured round to the climb up the Aonachs but decided to bail out at this point for the very long and horrendously midgy run through Glen Nevis, past the Steall waterfall, back to Polldubh. Around 17,000ft of climbing, 34 miles, 22 peaks with 14 munros, so still a big day out in the hills. I was struck again by my weather luck this year: crystal clear, stunning views from a galaxy of peaks across Scotland, the Italian Alps, the Maritime Alps and beyond. After fish and chips in Fort William, we drove home through the night via two short naps in Hamilton and Tebay - rather tiring.

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Caire de Cougourde

Peaks: Caire de Cougourde (2921m/9583ft)
Area: Maritime Alps, France
Routes: SE Ridge/Voie Normale (uI+)
Alongside Maledie, this was another obvious gap in my Mercantour CV and another very striking rock peak. Indeed, it is such a compelling objective from the Cougourde hut that I felt obliged to do it before breakfast, even though the original intention had just been to rest after yesterday's 'vertical kilometre' run. A peaceful night saw all the mist melt away to leave a starlit early morning. I managed to sneak away from the hut without waking the children but then had real difficulty following the path to Lac des Sagnes. I've done this before, when going up Cime de l'Agnel, but it is rather tenuous in the dark with no headtorch! I picked my way from cairn to cairn, then the light improved as I reached the crucial turn-off towards the Combe du Cougourde. This goes very steeply east, rapidly gaining height below the stunning west face (indeed, as with Maledie, it was a shame to just be soloing the normal route rather than enjoying the obviously superb rock climbing it had to offer). The path is, by Mercantour standards, easy to follow and well cairned. It leads quite quickly to a 20m slabby wall taken on good holds which gives access to the upper cwm. This heads up towards Cime des Gaisses initially before veering north to take a broad spur towards a good traverse path below the hidden east face. The cwm up here is just a deep bowl of shattered scree, surrounded by vertical rock, and is quite an intimidating place alone at 6.15am. That said, after almost 20 years exploring the Maritime Alps on my own, these situations are quite familiar: I can count on one hand the other people I've seen on the 30+ peaks I've climbed in the area. Rough scree, followed by 30m of more solid slabby scrambling, then led up to the Baisse du Cougourde, the onward route still looking utterly unfeasible at this point. It seems so unlikely that a simple voie normale exists, but, sure enough, on emerging at the Baisse all is revealed as a simple broad ridge line leads up to the summit. Before starting up the ridge, I spent a few minutes gaping at the awesome view as the sun rose over the shoulder of Gelas. Again, a cloud inversion on the Italian side meant superb views of the nearby peaks. These got better as I ascended the simple slopes to the right of the SE ridge. This gradually became steeper near the summit as the route snaked left and became more exposed with a few easy rocky steps. The views from the small top were predictably electrifying. The ridge from here, Peak 1 of the Cougourde (the high point), over to Peak 4, looked superb but sadly unfeasible solo. The descent via the same route was surprisingly simple and very quick, and I got to the hut before 8am with the breakfast coffee still warm! After a short rest in the sunshine, we all began the descent which was absolutely delightful in the morning sunshine. We all really enjoyed it, I think, and a second breakfast in the lovely woodland near the Pont Peirastreche prolonged our time in the valley before washing in the river, heading to see the wolves in Boreon, and driving to Nice airport later on.

Monday, August 13, 2012

Cime de la Palu: 'Vertical Kilometre'

Peaks: Cime de la Palu (2132m/6995ft)
Area: Maritime Alps, France
Route/Time: KmV 'Race'/53:31
This was a perfect opportunity to stretch my legs after the rigours of the last two days: a chance to run unencumbered in the gentle 2200m hills above St Martin in contrast to my more usual mountaineering trips up the higher peaks in these parts. After the luxury of a family room at the Gite in St Grat, we had one more trip from Boreon to the Cougourde hut, which necessitated a visit to St Martin Vesubie, my favourite Alpine town. I haven't been here for two years, and was delighted to find that - as luck would have it - the local council has developed a series of trail runs around the green hills that surround the town. As soon as I saw the 'Vertical Kilometre' outing, it became an unavoidable challenge and I changed into my running kit immediately. Kate and the children went to a cafe while I jogged up Rue Docteur Cagnoli to the start of the route. I'd never seen anything quite like it: an accurately measured and marked out route, with each 100m of ascent signposted, up to the 1000m finish just below the summit of Cime de la Palu - a 2200m peak that towers above St Martin. I set out at around 4.5mins per 100m pace, and managed to maintain this up to a more runnable section as I emerged from the treeline at the 700m mark. Breaking the hour seemed like an obvious target but I had three disadvantages. First, no caffeine. Second, some fatigue after the last two days. Third, midday heat. I treated it as valuable training, though, and really enjoyed the effort - which is obviously quite an intense session with an average gradient of 27% over 4.5km or so. The 1000m mark arrives abruptly, sadly just below the true summit of Palu, and I stopped my watch comfortably below the hour on 53:31. Above this, gentle zigzags lead to a broad col below Tete du Marre, the next peak on the ridge, and I jogged over to the summit to enjoy excellent views up the Cougourde valley, our next destination. The eponymous peak is a magnificent pyramid of rock from this point and I began to think that it would make a nice trip from the hut if I could find the time. The Prefouns and Agnel peaks (2008) also impressed, as did the area I'd visited in 2010 around Lac d'Allos further north. The run back down to St Martin, in warm sunshine, was a delight. More by accident than design, I took a different route down from ? which extended the fun, and we had a picnic of local ham sandwiches and myrtille tart under the trees before driving to the Vacherie du Boreon for the walk-in to the Cougourde Hut. This walk was far more popular with the family than the more demanding outing to the Nice hut. I had deliberately chosen the Cougourde hut because of the scenic contrast: whereas the Nice hut is surrounded by dramatic and stark peaks, the Cougourde hut is situated in a truly beautiful Alpine meadow with a pastoral feel - small copses, boulders and babbling streams - with the amazing Caires du Cougourde towering above. One of my favourite spots in the range, and although I've had a meal here before, I'd never stayed. We passed a relaxing and enjoyable evening in the hut, watching the mist gradually envelop the Cougourde and other peaks.

Sunday, August 12, 2012

Cime de la Maledie

Peaks: Cime de la Maledie (3059m/10036ft)
Area: Maritime Alps, Provence
Route: NW Face/Voie Normale (PD/uI+)
This magnificent peak is perhaps the most striking on the French side of the Maritime Alps and has been on my target list for many years. It was the obvious choice for a short and intense pre-breakfast outing from the Refuge du Nice. I left Kate and the children sleeping and crept out of the hut in the half-light at 5.40am: no need for 3am starts in the Maritime Alps, particularly this late in the summer. The route round the lake was easy to follow, well-cairned, as is the continuation up to Lac Long - presumably because it is also taken by the normal route up Gelas from the hut. This all helped, as it stayed dark for longer than I'd expected, and I was rewarded by a stunning red sky over Chamineye and Capelet. I was also very struck by the view back to yesterday's peak, Cime Nire, which appears as a spectacular leaning spire of rock from the entry to the wide valley containing Lac Long. Maledie towers above at this point, and the traverse remains relatively easy to follow up to the obvious problematic slabby rock band which guards entry to the upper cwms below the summit. It all added to the intrigue and enjoyment: steep slopes lead up to an intimidating side cwm, followed by a switchback to the east - tricky route-finding - which leads below a steep rock spur to slip into the little valley below the crucial Pas de Maledie (guarded from below by the rock-band). This little cwm was less intimidating than the one I'd left, but very atmospheric, and I rapidly gained the obvious steep couloir leading to the Pas. This gave some fine scrambling, around II, and was relatively solid. At the top of the Pas, I passed into Italy and gained a broad shelf of scree and stunning views over a cloud inversion in the Italian valleys. Monte Viso towered above the cloud, which the low sun had coloured orange, and vague distant glimpses of Gran Paradiso and Monte Rosa were satisfying, as I've climbed both. I was expecting a long traverse below the north face of Maledie - but actually the crucial summit couloir is reached after a couple of hundred metres. An arete, below a big drop, marks the line - the only feasible route of ascent. After a short rocky wall above the remains of a snowfield (which is much bigger earlier in the season), very loose scree and moraine dust leads to another short wall (II). Above lies more insecure scree and the spectacular small summit (90m from hut). This gave me a few of the more memorable minutes of my many visits to the peaks of the Mercantour: truly stunning views over the cloud inversion to the east. Clapier surprisingly impressive, as were all the other mountains I've previously climbed in this small but superb area: Capelet, Gelas, Ponset, Bego et al. I reckon I've climbed more than 30 Maritime Alps peaks since our ascent of Gelas in 1994. The descent of the couloir was distinctly unpleasant, down loose and steep scree, but it went OK - as did the scrambling down from the Pas. A brief breakfast of a tiny cereal bar in the sunshine above Lac Long, and I jogged back to meet the family by Lac de la Fous by 8.30am. A short but intense outing! All the family enjoyed the walk-down considerably more than the walk-up, and we enjoyed a superb lunch of wild trout and mountain herbs at the Gite in St Grat later. Cloud rolled in during the afternoon, and an atmospheric storm enlivened the evening meal.

Saturday, August 11, 2012

Cime Nire

Peaks: Cime Nire (2666m/8747ft)
Area: Maritime Alps, Provence
Routes: East Ridge (uI+), NW Gully (uII)
After a week in the Esterel sunshine, we headed up to my old stomping ground of the Maritime Alps for a brief family mountain trip bolted on to the end of our holiday. After taking the children for a night at the Lac d'Allos hut two years ago (their first visit to an Alpine hut) my plans this time were a little more ambitious. First item on the agenda was the walk-in to the Refuge du Nice. The Gordolasque valley is an area I know well, so I was relieved to be able to park at midday on a busy August Saturday. The walk-in went reasonably well. There were a few complaints from the offspring, particularly during the steep zig-zags below the Mur des Italians. The view of the waterfall was scant consolation! The cloudbase gradually lowered during the walk and the atmosphere was quite foreboding as we entered the plain of La Barme, surrounded by spectacular peaks - many of which I have climbed in the past, like Ponset, Clapier, Capelet and Collomb. A short rise gained Lac de Fous and views of the hut. This was the morale boost the team needed, and they were rewarded with a hot chocolate in the hut. After a game of scrabble, it looked like the mist was lifting slightly, so I ran up to Lac Nire before dinner. From here, it is a fairly simple matter to traverse the boulder fields and plough up the slopes to an obvious scree gully, the only real way to access the Pas de Nire between the two peaks of Tete du Lac Autier and Cime Nire. The cloud began to descend again as I reached the pass, so I made a snap decision to go for the lower - but more striking - peak of Cime Nire. This was short but excellent. A fine narrow ridge gave a bit of scrambling to an obvious forepeak, after which grass slopes led down to a pronounced col. The final north ridge looks very steep from a distance, but on closer inspection only the first and last 20 metres give any real scrambling. A few short rock walls, on good but lichen covered rock (I assume this peak is very rarely ascended), led to easier slopes before a steep final wall gave more easy rock climbing to a small summit (45m from hut). The cloud base was only just above the cairn, limiting the views but increasing the atmosphere. After a cautious descent, I decided to give Tete du Lac Autier a miss, mindful of conserving some energy for tomorrow morning. As a result, I opted to take the steeper NW gully leading directly down from the col to the lake as a more direct route back to the hut after analysing the feasibility of the line from a high vantage point. This was very loose in places - indeed the one steep section that looked worrying from above was actually the most solid 10m section of the gully. But it had the virtue of directness and I soon picked up the more solid boulder field above Lac Nire before gaining the GR52 and good quick running back to the hut, where we all enjoyed a superb four course dinner with local lamb and cheese from the vacherie in the valley.

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Carreg Alltrem climbing

Crag: Carreg Alltrem, Lledr Valley
Routes: Lightning Visit (VS 4b,4c:led p.1), Lavaredo (VS 4b,5a:led p.1)
A brief visit to this tranquil valley near Dolwyddelan. I led the two classic VS's 20 years ago, but, struggling with bruised ribs, they were the only real option today. The bruised ribs were one problem, another issue was the steady drizzle that failed to clear. The easy first pitch of Lightning Visit was more tricky than it might have been, as a result, with watery pockets and greasy rock. My ribs hurt a little as I followed Mick up the steepish final groove. After a nasty descent down the gully, I nipped up the first pitch of Lavaredo. This route was as good as I remembered, certainly one of the finest VS's in South Snowdonia. Nice intricate climbing up a groove leads to steep moves right to a spike, then a pull back left round an arete - tricky for the grade - leading to easy ground. Mick led the steep top pitch, which takes in some exposed and steep ground for the grade. Up to some flakes, lots of space below, then a hard pull up to more good holds and fine climbing to the top. Abbed down, in some pain, and reluctantly called it a day. Annoying, as the sun had come out, and I'd planned to do a fell race in the evening.

Saturday, July 14, 2012

Pen y Fan fell race

Race: Pen y Fan fell race (3.5m/2000ft/AS)
Time/Position: 40:21 (15th from 130 [2nd V40])
Peaks: Corn Du, Pen y Fan
Area: Brecon Beacons
I wasn't too sure how this would go, given my recent Alpine exertions, but wanted to give it a bash as it was one of this year's Welsh Championship series. I'm glad we made the effort to drive down just a few hours after returning from the Alps, as it is one of the best short fell races anywhere, a real classic which packs a great deal of action into 5k. A strong field meant an uncomfortably fast start up steep but runnable slopes from the start in Cwm Llwch above Brecon (E started next to me at the same time in the junior race!). My muscles immediately felt drained of energy, and I had a peculiar aching sensation even in my biceps for some reason. I recovered a bit as the slopes levelled off for the contouring path round to the obelisk on the ridge up Corn Du. This then becomes a steep 'pavement', up which I could only stride in my fatigued state. Some light, humid mist as I crested Corn Du then pelted over to Pen y Fan in a slow 30.04 - 18th at this point. Then comes the classic descent, steeply down rock steps to very steep grass - numerous runners literally rolling down the hillside, or using impromptu (and presumably painful) buttock sledges to descend. I managed to stay upright, just, and took the obvious traverse line due north but corrected myself when I saw others pelting straight down to the base of the cwm - thinking there may have been a checkpoint there. There wasn't, so I resumed the contouring and crossed the river efficiently before enjoying the very fast onward route down gentler slopes to the finish (10:17 for the descent - the 7th fastest, rather surprisingly as I felt I'd taken a bad line).

Thursday, July 12, 2012

Alagna climbing

Crag: Alagna village boulder, Alagna Valsesia
Routes: Left Arete (f4:sol), Slab Left (f4:sol), Slab Centre (f5:sol), Slab Right (f5:sol)
Another large glacial erratic, in the mould of the one we discovered at Merletti yesterday morning. This one also had bolted climbs up it, but was far more amenable, and smaller, and gave just a few minutes exercise after I'd relaxed with an afternoon beer following this morning's lengthy Valsesia traverse. The routes on the right on the slab were affected by lichen, the others were short slabs of pocketed granite.

Valsesia traverse

Peaks: Cornello Tailly (2708m/8884ft)
Area: Valsesia, Pennine Alps, Italy
A bitterly cold morning, despite the relatively low altitude of the hut (2500m). I wanted to catch the sun rising over Monte Tagliaferro across the valley to the east, however, so put on all my layers and left the hut just after 5am. Pink and orange alpenglow lit the walls of Corno Biano behind the hut, and the sun gradually rose above the shoulder of Tagliaferro before sinking back behind the bulk of the peak. We left the hut after a brief and painfully brew-less breakfast to continue the planned traverse of the range just before 6am. The route gradually moves south through the cwm containing the massively diminished Otro glacier. Huge boulders scattered throughout the cwm made for difficult route-finding and slow progress, but reminded me strongly of the 'clapier' fields that typify my main stomping ground of the Maritime Alps. Familiar terrain indeed, but this kind of chaotic landscape is never easy to negotiate. We eventually gained the very steep scree slopes up the side wall to the Colletto di Tailly, steep enough indeed to give some scrambling as light relief from the shifting moraine debris. From the small sunlit col, a stunning view to the north over the emerald green slopes of Punta Straling opened up, with the remarkable white wall of Monte Rose rising beyond. This is certainly up there with the best views in Europe, particularly in this superbly clear early morning light. Huw was some way behind at this point, so I took the opportunity to scramble up the ridge to the highpoint of Cornello Tailly, which is essentially the top of one of the many spurs thrown down by the parent peak of Corno Biano (but which appears as an impressive spire from the Otro valley below). After descending to the col, I met Huw for a brief rest. From here, an annoying descent led to the greener cwm containing the Tailly lakes, but we fashioned an efficient contouring line to cut the corner of the cwm and find what I hoped was the onward route up Corno Biano - the day's objective and indeed the objective of this entire two-day traverse. A tiny path led up steep grass to a 60ft pitch up a slabby wall. A cable eased progress somewhat, but it felt safer to ignore it: the wall gave fine scrambling up small positive holds at around II+. Above, the route eased to eventually gain a superbly wild Alpine cwm containing the remnants of the Nevaio di Puio glacier. This is a genuinely remote spot, at least five hours walk from the nearest road. Huw had a rest - the weather remaining perfectly sunny and stable - while I picked my way through the moraines at the bottom of this glacial bowl to a series of steepish snow slopes which led to the south wall of the cwm. It all felt like a rather obscure route up the peak and I could see no evidence of tracks or previous ascents this year: surely this can't have been the first by this route this season? The wall to the south appeared almost sheer, but I initially followed route marks to a steep wall and had high hopes of finding the chains that supposedly eased progress up the crags to the breche. I was well above 3000m by now, and the summit was very close. Sadly, however, I failed to find a feasible onward route: I hadn't packed the rope and was unwilling to commit to the onward route in terrain like this, which was potentially quite serious, without being sure. This was all bitterly disappointing, and I can only conclude that the cairns and perhaps even the chains were buried under the substantial amount of late season snow that remained in the cwm. I made my way back to Huw and we descended to the sun-drenched Tailly Lakes to continue the grand traverse. The path down this side of the valley was, if anything, even more remote and obscure than the route of ascent on the north side of the Otro: it became slippery, tenuous and physically draining, although the views of Monte Rosa remained stupendous and admirably compensated. The path weaved and twisted and was hopelessly vegetated in places, seemingly devoid of any human traffic, but we finally gained the bottom of the valley and an easier onward riverside route to Alagna. This joined the ascent route just above the village, and we got to the deli a few minutes before it shut for lunch.

Wednesday, July 11, 2012

Passo dell'Uomo Storto

Peaks: P. dell'Uomo Storto (2874m/9429ft)
Area: Valsesia, Pennine Alps, Italy
It was a tricky task to decide what to do with our remaining two days in the Alps. We were tempted to head over to Switzerland, but in the end we decided to maximise the time in the mountains by going for a two day traverse of the lower Valsesia peaks. This was, if you like, the 'green' trip - in contrast to the earlier 'white' trip up the high peaks of Monte Rosa. The contrast was wonderful, and remarkable given the two ranges proximity: indeed, the starting point again was Alagna. We didn't even need the car. We set off just before midday up the wooded slopes which shroud the side of the Otro valley, feeling fairly comfortable after yesterday's exertions. Delightful walking led to the treeline and a stunning moment as we emerged into Alpine meadows near the village of Follu. This, and the other Walser (Germanic) villages around Valsesia reminded me quite strongly of Nepalese treks. No road access, beautiful stone-built cottages, and superb views over to Monte Tagliaferro, a striking rock peak east of Alagna. The walking then became even more Himalayan in character, following broad donkey tracks through a series of beautiful traffic-free remote villages. First came Scarpia, preceded by tranquil Alpine meadows. After a brief lunch, we continued along the tracks - here part of the long distance Tour de Monte Rosa - up to the even more remote Pianmisura. At this point, our route to the bivvy hut broke off and immediately became very tortuous and surprisingly hard to follow. It was considerably overgrown in places, but soon the vegetation died away and the scenery became more high mountain as we gained the wild cwm containing Lac Terrafrancia. Above this, a steep moraine led to another small glacial lake with the Ravelli Bivouac hut on a small spur above. The location was stunning, and our choice of outing seemed vindicated. The views over the Otro valley towards Tagliaferro, Piglimo and Cima Carnera were wonderful, as were the closer views up the rock walls of Corno Biano. The hut was memorable: a small metal tube containing a cosy wood-panelled chamber, gas stove and four beds. We were, needless to say, the only residents (the four hour walk-in presumably prevents overcrowding!). And, according to the hut book, perhaps the first foreigners to have visited for several years. After a break and snack, I headed off on an afternoon outing, up the snow slopes above the hut. These steep slopes led to a small peak above a spur then a remote ice-dammed lake.  I skirted this along a moraine, then gained steep and unpleasant scree up to the tiny breche of the Passo dell'Uomo Storto ('Crippled Man'), a classic high Alpine pass linking Valsesia and Gressoney: two neighbouring valleys with different linguistic heritage and culture (very broadly 'French' in Gressoney, Germanic in Valsesia, despite both being in Italy), an illustration of the remoteness and difficulty of this pass, perhaps! I then scrambled up the sharp peak to the north at 2874m, which was essentially a giant gendarme on the multi-crested ridge between Corno Rosso and the parent peak of Corno Bianco. The north ridge up Bianco looked superb. The weather then closed in, with a brief shower as I descended to the hut. Later, a much heavier shower gave way to a stunning rainbow - truly memorable - stretched across the entire Otro valley with the eastern peaks beyond.

Merletti climbing

Crag: Merletti, Valsesia
Routes: Central Slab (f6a+:led), Left Slab (f6a:sec)
Rather tired after yesterday's exertions, so this morning we allowed ourselves a leisurely breakfast then drove north up the valley to the roadhead above the Pastore Refuge for excellent views of the East wall of the Italian side of Monte Rosa. This face gets almost Himalayan in scale further north towards Macugnaga, but even here the upward views are impressive. I spied a large bolted boulder right by the road near Merletti and couldn't resist having a go at the central line up the steep slab marking the south side of the boulder, maybe 40ft high. This proved far more technical than it looked, with a desperate start at 6b/c or so using tiny sidepulls and foot smears to move above the first bolt. Tired after yesterday, I resorted to a brief spot of aid to gain easier climbing above. Small horizontal ledges then made for easier progress to the top. The route further left was a little easier, but it still had a hard start. We then left for the village to get some provisions before embarking on our next trip up to the Ravelli bivouac hut.

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

Monte Rosa traverse

Peaks: Signalkuppe (4556m/14947ft), Ludwigshohe (4341m/14242ft), Corno Nero/Schwarzhorn (4321m/14176ft)
Routes: South-West Flank (F+), South-West Ridge (PD-), North-West Flank (PD)
Area: Monte Rosa, Pennine Alps, Italy
A relatively late start by Alpine standards, with a 4am breakfast call, perhaps illustrating the pedestrian nature of this route up the Italian flank of Monte Rosa. But it was still exciting to be back in the high Alps, despite our modest plans for the day, and I savoured the ambience as we set off from the Mantova hut up the Garstelet glacier just before 5am. Small pools of light from the headtorch soon gave way to the half light of early morning, and the eerie blue glow from the glacial scenery and large seracs below Vincent. I kept a slow plod going, but Huw began to suffer again as we began the steep slopes east of Vincent. This was hardly surprising, given our short period of acclimatisation, and he seemed OK after a short rest. We continued in this vein, plodding upwards to the col then curving west past some big crevasses towards the Lyskamm. We passed just below the rocky outcrop of the Balmenhorn before gaining the Lysjoch - the obvious large col where views open out to the north. Passing into Switzerland, we enjoyed the superb new views over the Dufourspitze ahead and Matterhorn left. Some big cloud banks boiled over the ridges of the Matterhorn and Ober Gabelhorn. The contrast between the rocky peaks around Zermatt and the enchanting white world of Monte Rosa was stunning. The dramatic beauty of these upper Monte Rosa slopes is just remarkable: the low sun now reflecting off the fresh snow crystals. Huw continued to struggle, however, and as we traversed below the Parrotspitze life became much harder as the new snow had blown around and drifted in places. Soft and draining plodding is never ideal: even less so at this altitude, and his pace understandably slowed dramatically. After several breaks, we finally crested the steep and windblown slopes up to the Col Gnifetti. Huw couldn't go any further, but I could untie safely up here and enjoyed the final icy slopes up to the summit of Signalkuppe and its celebrated hut. Surprisingly steep and icy, quite sporting: a little over 3 hours from Rifugio Mantova. Great views from the summit, although cloud boiled up again to the east. The desperately cold wind was a real problem, however, and I was conscious of Huw waiting at the col. My feet were getting very cold, so I tore myself away from the views of Nordend and beyond to climb down the steep slope to rejoin him. I really wanted to take in the Zumsteinspitze and was very disappointed not to be able to, but Huw had to descend. As we approached the Parrotspitze, another key target, I asked again - but he was still suffering so we had to continue down. A shame, but as we regained the Lysjoch, sunshine and calm weather, Huw started to feel better and agreed to wait while I collected a few more peaks. I thoroughly enjoyed the lovely symmetrical snow arete leading SE to the summit of the Ludwigshohe. The weather was clearing west, and I was struck by the proximity of the fine looking peak of Corno Nero, probably the most impressive summit on this ridge. I could not resist, so ploughed down to the Zurbriggen col and up the 40m steep slope to the summit. This gave very enjoyable easy snow climbing, perhaps grade II in UK winter terms, and led up to a very airy summit ridge. A spectacular location, with stunning views over the ridge back to Signalkuppe. Stunning clarity of light, with the deepest blue sky imaginable and distant views even to Monte Viso, well to the south. I now had to get back to Huw, which necessitated a climb back over the Ludwigshohe arete. This was tough, and I started to suffer towards the top, but a long downward plod to the Mantova hut was all we had left to do. After a break, we headed down the easier lower route to the Indren glacier and the cable cars: low cloud by now, quite grim higher up. A late lunch of proscuito panini in Alagna was much appreciated, and we then enjoyed a few hours of relaxation at the campsite.

Monday, July 09, 2012

Piramide Vincent

Peaks: Piramide Vincent (4215m/13829ft)
Routes: North-West Flank (F)
Area: Monte Rosa, Pennine Alps, Italy
An acclimatisation outing on one of the the most straightforward of the bigger Alpine peaks. It worked very well in that respect, as our time was very limited (four days in the Alps!) and we had plans to go well above 4500m tomorrow. This very rapid ascent to 4000m+ was always going to be physically challenging, as Huw and I had flown into Milan just yesterday evening, then woken up first thing to get the trio of cable cars from our camp in Alagna up to the top station at Punta Indren. But despite the rapid ascent to altitude we didn't feel too bad as we plodded across the lower Ghiacciaio di Indren from Punta Indren and took the upper branch of the marked route to the short upper glacier. This gave a fine scramble up a steep but broken moraine/wall, for which we removed crampons. Some enjoyable easy rock walls leds to short icy sections then a longer series of ladders, cable and rocky walls to gain the small Garstelet glacier between the Gnifetti and Mantova huts. We roped up, then took it fairly easy for the glacier plod above Gnifetti to the steeper slopes below the seracs which lead up towards the Lysjoch. The weather was superb in terms of clarity, but a vicious wind was clearly going to compromise our comfort slightly. It was great to be back in the high Alps, however - my first trip above 4000m since 1998! As we approached the broad col west of Vincent, views opened out. The Lyskamm was particularly notable, as was the more distant Mont Blanc and Gran Paradiso, reminding me of our ascent back in 1995. The wind made life tricky for the final climb up Vincent, as it whipped across the gap, covering the tracks and cutting through our clothes. Fortunately, we had plenty of extra layers, and the final push through a tiny cornice to the summit went quite well. A bank of cloud was boiling up the Piedmontese side of the ridge lending superb definition to the notable sharp summit of Corno Nero. We didn't waste much time on the summit, and plunged back down to the col, taking it easier for the descent down to Rifugio Mantova as the clouds began to gather above. An expensive plate of excellent gnocchi, alongside an even more expensive beer, made a fine lunch. This was my tactic, sleeping as low as was feasible (still 3500m though) and, alongside a modest intake of ibuprofen, it made for a reasonably comfortable night in this pleasantly updated, though pricey, hut. Good views from the terrace down to Valsesia, Aosta and Gran Paradiso, and up to the Lyskamm and Piramide Vincent, which looks surprisingly impressive from below.

Thursday, July 05, 2012

Deestriders Off Road race

Race: Deestriders Off-Road Grand Prix Race 2 (5.6m)
Time/Position: 35.59 (8th from 92 [3rd V40])
A rather confusing series of cross-country loops around the no-man's land between Shotton and the Dee. I really struggled to hold any kind of pace this evening, and had no real idea where I was in relation to the rest of the race as we seemed to do one too many laps at the far end of the course. I've never indulged in this long-established local evening series before, partly because it's not the most appealing locale, but it does make for a good speed session. One big loop along the Dee was followed by a shorter series of wooded loops with sharp XC turns and little banks and hills. Then a long loop back towards Chester through a bog. Not exactly my cup of tea, and I lost several places in the last mile or two. Very humid throughout, or maybe that was just me struggling with the pace!

Saturday, June 30, 2012

Ras Foel Fras

Race: Foel Fras fell race (12m/3100ft/BL)
Time/Position: 1:48:58 (2nd from 52 [1st V40])
Peaks: Drum, Foel Fras, Garnedd Uchaf, Moel Wnion
If last Sunday's win was unexpected, pulling into the lead in this long fell race after Garnedd Uchaf was even more surprising. It's my third or fourth time at this event, and it's one I really enjoy - with the very long but fairly gradual climb up Drum from Aber leading to big gaps between runners and some often quite challenging conditions on the higher tops spicing things up a bit. I gradually moved through the field on the climb, which is runnable throughout even for me, and was in second place as a fierce squally shower came in as we got to the top of Drum in less than 45m. I gradually started gaining on the chap in front during the boggy, hard climb up Foel Fras but he stayed away as the weather really closed in for the aquatic run over to Garnedd Uchaf (Carnedd Gwenllian as it now is). I finally caught him on Garnedd Uchaf in dire weather: heavy rain turning to hail, strong winds. There's no good route down to the traverse path, so I just ploughed through the boulders trying to keep the right line. I was getting colder and colder, and had memories of this race in 2009 - when a ferocious squall at exactly this point decimated the field and led to a few hypothermia cases - so I put on my jacket and checked the bearing briefly as I was now alone at the front of the race. This delay may have ended up costing me the race, but at least I was then comfortable and confident about the navigation. I upped the pace down to Llwybr yr Aryg and a marshall, then kept a good pace to the bwlch below Moel Wnion. I seemed to be well out in front as the sun came out, and to my surprise it looked like I was going to win a race for the second time in six days. I jogged up to the summit of Wnion, risking a backward glance and not seeing anyone in the big landscape. But then I looked over to the right, and saw that a) I was 100m left of the checkpoint and b) a previously unseen Eryri runner was storming up a more direct route up Wnion! I pelted across to the checkpoint and began the descent, but was inevitably caught and passed within a couple of minutes. Try as I might, I couldn't catch him on the very long descent, and was now uncomfortably hot in my coat and buff! Ended up a good 50 seconds behind, in second place at the finishing tape back in Aber village. I knew my time was a PB for the course, but suspect the time given was too fast: I didn't properly record my time but I don't think it was sub 1:50 as the results suggest. A great event as always, a real mountain race in one of my favourite areas.

Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Snowdon run

Peaks: Yr Wyddfa (1065)
An opportunistic post-work run up Snowdon from Llanberis. After meeting in Lixwm, five of us set off from the town at 6.45pm in unexpectedly benign conditions of high cloud and high humidity. The initial climb up the metalled road seemed even steeper than it does in the race, but the tourist route soon levels off to give superbly enjoyable running up to the steepening at Allt Moses. We split into two groups, with Jez, Neil and I keeping a steady jog going throughout the steep climb to Clogwyn station and up the nasty scree beyond. I always think this is the crux of the race: indeed I tend to walk parts of this section. The forecast, it became clear, was completely wrong. Instead of 100m cloud base and steady drizzle, we found superb conditions of light shifting mist and a gathering cloud inversion. Quite spectacular as we crested the steep hill to the summit ridge, with mist peeling away from Clogwyn y Garnedd. It's been a while since I've been up Snowdon in the evening: it's always a reminder of what a great peak it is. Nobody on top, just a few runners around, and tremendous views down to Glaslyn and over to Crib Goch. A huge cloud bank to the east: with Cader, Aran and Berwyn visible above. Swirling mist over Nantlle but, again, the summits were above the cloud. We were up in just over an hour, spend 15 minutes or so enjoying the scenery before the cold wind sent us scampering down for an exhilarating descent to Llanberis where we met up with Rich and Rob just after 8.30pm. We even had time for a quick recovery pint in Ysgeifiog.