Peak: Wildspitze (3772m/12362ft)
Route: Mitterkarjoch/Normal Route (PD)
Area: Otztal Alps, Austria
The highest peak in the Tyrol, and the second highest in Austria, the Wildspitze is also a very beautiful objective. It takes the form of a tent-like pyramid soaring above extensive snowfields. It was an obvious target for our short trip, and is unsurprisingly popular. It gives a straightforward but excellent route over the Mitterkarjoch: much more interesting and varied than we had anticipated, as it breaks down into four distinct parts. Breakfast was at 5.30am, late by Alpine standards, and we were away by 6.15. The route initially climbs into the Mitterkar, a glacial bowl of rubble and boulders which has presumably lost a great deal of its ice in recent years. A decent path winds through the moraines until the upper cwm is reached. The dim light gave way to Alpenglow on the Hinterer Brochkogel high above while behind a cloud inversion formed in the Vental. We passed one big guided party just before the cairns ran out as the upper cwm was reached. This is guarded by steep rock walls, with the summit of the Wildspitze high up on the right of the cwm, cloud streamers curling over the cornices. The actual Mitterkarjoch, which is the key to the whole route, is a tight col above a hidden rock couloir that rises steeply to the north. A dry glacier, just shallow ice, rapidly diminishing, leads up to the couloir, so we donned crampons and headed upwards, behind another guided party. The route up was pleasant, frozen solid after a cold night. Eventually, the glacier gives way to a small bergschrund and then a 150ft via ferrata section, which takes the couloir on its solid left-hand side up a series of cables. I would imagine that, until fairly recently, this couloir was a tracked out snow plod. Now the cables take you on to fairly solid ground up the left walls. Some surprisingly strenuous hauls needed, tricky work in crampons, and we were initially stuck behind the one small guided party that now remained in front of us. However, the steepness eases quite quickly and gives way to a long and very enjoyable diagonal traverse, eventually gaining the atmospheric Mitterkarjoch itself, where the environment and ambience changes suddenly and utterly from rock to snow as you enter the white world of the upper snowfields. The small col gives access to the summit glacier and is a tremendous spot with new views to the west over the Pitztal to Glochturm and a galaxy of other peaks. Cloud in the valleys just added to the atmosphere, particularly as wisps enveloped us from time to time. We geared up for the glacier crossing, which was a delight. Horizontal initially, it then rears up and crosses three or four crevasses. At this point, we were joined by climbers from the Pitztal side, but it never got overly crowded. The glacier crossing ends at a shallow col below the final rocky (at this time of year) summit pyramid. We removed ice gear and scrambled to the top (3 hours), very enjoyable despite the altitude. Verglassed rocks and my ancient Alpine boots (badly worn soles!) made it a little trickier than it might have been. Banks of cloud filled the Otztal and Pitztal with the high summits rising above, a spectacular view. Looking over the Stubai to the Schrankogel was particularly satisfying, and the nearby peaks on the Italian border were also notable, like the Similaun and Weisskugel. We deliberately timed the descent to perfection after a wonderful stay on the summit, avoiding the biggest guided parties on the scramble, then romping down the glacier to ensure we had the couloir to ourselves: this worked perfectly and we made rapid progress back to the hut. After enjoyable crampon work down the dry glacier, we took a long rest in the upper Mitterkar, enjoying the high Alpine ambience for one last time, then the long trudge through the moraines back to the Breslauer Hut (the first team down, just before midday) for Bergsteigerressen (wurst and pasta) and coffee. Thus fortified, we made our way down to Stablein in hot sunshine.
Friday, September 09, 2016
Thursday, September 08, 2016
Oberried climbing
Crag: Oberried (Otztal, Tyrol, Austria)
Routes: Captain Hook (u6-/f5b:led), Mila Johara (u5-:sec), Night Rider (u5-:sec), Playboy (u5/f5a:sec), Baker Street (u6/f5c:led), Grisu (u7-/f6a+:sec), Loreley (f5b:led), Loschaktion (f5b:led), Wasserklang (f5b:led), Lausbubenverschneidung (u6+/f6a:sec)
A truly delightful crag, with well over 100 varied routes in a wonderful setting next to tranquil valley pastures with tremendous views up towards the Gamskogel and other peaks. It was virtually walking distance from our hotel, just across the valley floor, but had its own car park with toilet. A hot day seemed likely, so we started early as the morning sun hit the crag casting long shadows over the wet meadows, cow bells the only sound. Our chosen starting point was a side slab, with three overlapping slabs, all quite distinct, with the top one jutting out over a steeper wall. Captain Hook took the full height and gave a pleasant VS pitch, delicate climbing interspersed by the odd steeper move over each bulge. Vic led the similar but shorter line to the left, and two easier routes further right completed the fun. After this little warm up, it was already too hot to climb in the sun so we found a shady west-facing nook further left where I led Baker Street, an excellent HVS/f5c pitch up a steep wall of grey granite. It looked slightly smooth and polished from below, but wasn't really: it took an obvious line of weakness up the steep wall, a diagonal line of jugs leading towards the left-hand arete, then weaving right taking a further line of positive cracks up the steeper headwall. Great pitch, although bettered by Vic's lead of Grisu at f6a+. This took a direct line up that left-hand arete and gave superb climbing. A thin but positive flake crack right on the edge of the arete gave steep, dynamic moves up to a rest. Then an intermittent crack system with some interesting jamming led to the top via more fine climbing direct up the edge of the arete: excellent pitch. Further left, back in the sunshine, I led the classic corner line of Loreley - which felt like a traditional British VS. An obvious, strong line with some surprisingly awkward bridging and steep moves higher up. Loschaktion, immediately right, was a distinct contrast, taking a clean and delicate slab via some surprisingly technical moves on small holds and foot smears. Both quite stiff leads for the grade. Wasserklang was the worst pitch of the trip: something of a sandbag with me tiring after a bad night's sleep. A very steep start up an overhanging wall led to two thrutchy and steep grooves: awkward and disjointed, but close to a picturesque waterfall, as its name suggests. I flailed clumsily up this, with fading forearms, but was revived by the terrific corner of Lausbubenverschneidung (scallywag's corner!), a great f6a led by Vic, taking a very obvious clean corner direct up the high face at the left of the crag. Easy climbing low down leads to a superb textbook layback crack. Great moves up this to a high jug, before a pulsating finish taking the steepening finger crack in the corner. The crux comes right at the top: a layaway and very long reach for a flat finishing hold. With regret, we called it a day after 10 routes and headed up the valley for a late lunch before driving up to Vent at the end of the Otztal. From here, we got the chairlift to Stablein, then enjoyed a wonderful relaxed walk-in over the dramatic Rofenbach to the Breslauer Hut in great weather. Another superb hut, more traditional and crowded than the Amberger, with us in a small wooden room with great views. We refuelled with goulash, spatzle, gruner veltliner, blaufrankisch and other delights.
Routes: Captain Hook (u6-/f5b:led), Mila Johara (u5-:sec), Night Rider (u5-:sec), Playboy (u5/f5a:sec), Baker Street (u6/f5c:led), Grisu (u7-/f6a+:sec), Loreley (f5b:led), Loschaktion (f5b:led), Wasserklang (f5b:led), Lausbubenverschneidung (u6+/f6a:sec)
A truly delightful crag, with well over 100 varied routes in a wonderful setting next to tranquil valley pastures with tremendous views up towards the Gamskogel and other peaks. It was virtually walking distance from our hotel, just across the valley floor, but had its own car park with toilet. A hot day seemed likely, so we started early as the morning sun hit the crag casting long shadows over the wet meadows, cow bells the only sound. Our chosen starting point was a side slab, with three overlapping slabs, all quite distinct, with the top one jutting out over a steeper wall. Captain Hook took the full height and gave a pleasant VS pitch, delicate climbing interspersed by the odd steeper move over each bulge. Vic led the similar but shorter line to the left, and two easier routes further right completed the fun. After this little warm up, it was already too hot to climb in the sun so we found a shady west-facing nook further left where I led Baker Street, an excellent HVS/f5c pitch up a steep wall of grey granite. It looked slightly smooth and polished from below, but wasn't really: it took an obvious line of weakness up the steep wall, a diagonal line of jugs leading towards the left-hand arete, then weaving right taking a further line of positive cracks up the steeper headwall. Great pitch, although bettered by Vic's lead of Grisu at f6a+. This took a direct line up that left-hand arete and gave superb climbing. A thin but positive flake crack right on the edge of the arete gave steep, dynamic moves up to a rest. Then an intermittent crack system with some interesting jamming led to the top via more fine climbing direct up the edge of the arete: excellent pitch. Further left, back in the sunshine, I led the classic corner line of Loreley - which felt like a traditional British VS. An obvious, strong line with some surprisingly awkward bridging and steep moves higher up. Loschaktion, immediately right, was a distinct contrast, taking a clean and delicate slab via some surprisingly technical moves on small holds and foot smears. Both quite stiff leads for the grade. Wasserklang was the worst pitch of the trip: something of a sandbag with me tiring after a bad night's sleep. A very steep start up an overhanging wall led to two thrutchy and steep grooves: awkward and disjointed, but close to a picturesque waterfall, as its name suggests. I flailed clumsily up this, with fading forearms, but was revived by the terrific corner of Lausbubenverschneidung (scallywag's corner!), a great f6a led by Vic, taking a very obvious clean corner direct up the high face at the left of the crag. Easy climbing low down leads to a superb textbook layback crack. Great moves up this to a high jug, before a pulsating finish taking the steepening finger crack in the corner. The crux comes right at the top: a layaway and very long reach for a flat finishing hold. With regret, we called it a day after 10 routes and headed up the valley for a late lunch before driving up to Vent at the end of the Otztal. From here, we got the chairlift to Stablein, then enjoyed a wonderful relaxed walk-in over the dramatic Rofenbach to the Breslauer Hut in great weather. Another superb hut, more traditional and crowded than the Amberger, with us in a small wooden room with great views. We refuelled with goulash, spatzle, gruner veltliner, blaufrankisch and other delights.
Wednesday, September 07, 2016
Schrankogel
Peak: Schrankogel (3497m/11473ft)
Route: East Ridge (PD)
Area: Stubai Alps, Austria
Rather high for an acclimatisation peak, but the Schrankogel is a superb mountain that had the added advantage of getting us into the heart of the Stubai Alps before our planned ascent of the higher Wildspitze in the Otztal Alps later in the week. The two ranges are quite distinct, although both can be accessed from the main Otztal valley. We spent the night in the splendid Amberger Hut, which was wonderful in the way that only Austrian huts can be, and enjoyed a relative lie-in before breakfast at 6am. Fresh snow had fallen above 3000m so we packed a short rope as precaution, although I wore approach shoes throughout as there is no glacier to cross on this route. We moved up the broad and magnificent Sulztal valley, almost Himalayan in feel at this point, with the Sulztalferner glacier sunlit above. The sun had yet to reach us, and we made rapid progress up the side valley of the Schwarzenberg to the east. A steep ascent led to a superb path on top of a moraine which gave a wonderful mile or so of walking, as the sun began to light up the Mutterberger Seespitze and Schwarzenbergspitze across the valley. In the dim morning light, with a fallen signpost, I failed to spot the line of the normal route going up the south-west ridge. This was no bad thing, however, as the moraine path was truly wonderful and took us up to the Schwarzenberg glacier high above. Some rubbly material at the top of the moraine, dusty, steep and arduous for a while. Above, however, we arrived at a plateau with the east ridge towering above: clearly a much better and more interesting option than the normal route, plastered with a good few inches of fresh snow. The weather was absolutely superb: deep blue cloudless sky and crystal clarity in all directions. We were both going at our own pace, so I set off for the main ridge, enjoying the more solid slabby rock. The snow made things trickier in places, but there were no real difficulties: it was rather like a giant Crib Goch. The ridge tapers constantly until it becomes more exposed as the summit cross comes into view. The final section is quite narrow with a few awkward steps but leads quickly and directly to the summit (2.50 from the hut). The amazing and unusual clarity of light made this one of the best views I have ever had in the Alps, or anywhere. I shared the summit with a chap from Bavaria who helped me with some of the unfamiliar peaks. Close at hand, the pyramidal Schrandele, Zuckerhutl and Wilde Leck impressed, but the Schrankogel is so prominent that it is the highest point for miles around, so the main feeling was one of distant views stretching right across the Alps, from the Todi and Silvretta to the Gross Venediger and the distant Dolomites. The Wildspitze dominated the view to the south-west: a beautiful summit. I spent a long time gazing at the view until Vic arrived, and we eventually tore ourself away for the descent. This was awkward, long and tiring, and I was a tad annoyed that I'd failed to realise the obvious traverse option. But the moraine was equally good in descent and the sun-drenched Sulztal a wonderful place to linger as we neared the hut. Sadly, we'd run out of money, so had to scamper back to the car in Gries before a surprisingly lengthy hunt for valley accommodation in Langenfeld. We got it sorted in the end, however, and a fine meal of wild mushroom soup, Tyrol lamb and rosti restored some of the lost calories.
Route: East Ridge (PD)
Area: Stubai Alps, Austria
Rather high for an acclimatisation peak, but the Schrankogel is a superb mountain that had the added advantage of getting us into the heart of the Stubai Alps before our planned ascent of the higher Wildspitze in the Otztal Alps later in the week. The two ranges are quite distinct, although both can be accessed from the main Otztal valley. We spent the night in the splendid Amberger Hut, which was wonderful in the way that only Austrian huts can be, and enjoyed a relative lie-in before breakfast at 6am. Fresh snow had fallen above 3000m so we packed a short rope as precaution, although I wore approach shoes throughout as there is no glacier to cross on this route. We moved up the broad and magnificent Sulztal valley, almost Himalayan in feel at this point, with the Sulztalferner glacier sunlit above. The sun had yet to reach us, and we made rapid progress up the side valley of the Schwarzenberg to the east. A steep ascent led to a superb path on top of a moraine which gave a wonderful mile or so of walking, as the sun began to light up the Mutterberger Seespitze and Schwarzenbergspitze across the valley. In the dim morning light, with a fallen signpost, I failed to spot the line of the normal route going up the south-west ridge. This was no bad thing, however, as the moraine path was truly wonderful and took us up to the Schwarzenberg glacier high above. Some rubbly material at the top of the moraine, dusty, steep and arduous for a while. Above, however, we arrived at a plateau with the east ridge towering above: clearly a much better and more interesting option than the normal route, plastered with a good few inches of fresh snow. The weather was absolutely superb: deep blue cloudless sky and crystal clarity in all directions. We were both going at our own pace, so I set off for the main ridge, enjoying the more solid slabby rock. The snow made things trickier in places, but there were no real difficulties: it was rather like a giant Crib Goch. The ridge tapers constantly until it becomes more exposed as the summit cross comes into view. The final section is quite narrow with a few awkward steps but leads quickly and directly to the summit (2.50 from the hut). The amazing and unusual clarity of light made this one of the best views I have ever had in the Alps, or anywhere. I shared the summit with a chap from Bavaria who helped me with some of the unfamiliar peaks. Close at hand, the pyramidal Schrandele, Zuckerhutl and Wilde Leck impressed, but the Schrankogel is so prominent that it is the highest point for miles around, so the main feeling was one of distant views stretching right across the Alps, from the Todi and Silvretta to the Gross Venediger and the distant Dolomites. The Wildspitze dominated the view to the south-west: a beautiful summit. I spent a long time gazing at the view until Vic arrived, and we eventually tore ourself away for the descent. This was awkward, long and tiring, and I was a tad annoyed that I'd failed to realise the obvious traverse option. But the moraine was equally good in descent and the sun-drenched Sulztal a wonderful place to linger as we neared the hut. Sadly, we'd run out of money, so had to scamper back to the car in Gries before a surprisingly lengthy hunt for valley accommodation in Langenfeld. We got it sorted in the end, however, and a fine meal of wild mushroom soup, Tyrol lamb and rosti restored some of the lost calories.
Tuesday, September 06, 2016
Oetz climbing
Crag: Oetz (Otztal, Tyrol, Austria)
Routes: Rampe (u6-/f5b:sec), Rechte Wand (u6/f5c:led), Mittlere Wand (u5/f5a:sec), Linke Wand (f6a:sec), Kante (u6/f5c:led)
After my morning jog up Kofel, we headed straight for the Otztal in improving weather. The plan was to walk in to the Amberger hut around 4pm, but over a late lunch in Oetz I spied what looked like a roadside crag. We immediately revised our plans to squeeze a brief climbing session in, and it worked perfectly - particularly after being rained off the crags this morning. Oetz is an unusual crag, right next to a busy road and immediately above an industrial wood processing plant: not the most tranquil venue! Oetz itself is at the head of the Otztal, our proposed 'home valley' and is surrounded by mountains. The routes were good: around 20m high on excellent solid granite, all well bolted and highly convenient. Our time was very limited so it could hardly have been more suitable. Rampe was a good line up an inset slab to a steep final wall, which is replete with sharp holds and much easier than it looks. I then moved to the slabby wall immediately right, a fine sweep of granite, and led the arete line of Rechte Wand. This was a good route, quite delicate in places, with crisp moves low down giving access to the juggy arete with a tricky move to finish on small holds. Slightly overgraded, not noticeably harder than the 5a line to its left. Vic led the Linke, which gave more technical climbing to a steep finish on awkward side pulls and unhelpful holds. Finally, I just had time to bag another arete line: this time Kante, which takes the edge of the Rampe slab. This was nice but overgraded: nowhere near f5c, it felt like a two star British Severe with lovely flowing moves on positive holds in a nice position on the edge. We packed the gear away quickly and headed up the valley to the elevated hamlet of Gries above Langenfeld, where we enjoyed a delightful walk-in to the Amberger Hut. A great start to the trip, varied and productive, particularly after heavy rain this morning. It improved further as we arrived at the hut with eight minutes to spare before dinner, by pure fluke. A three course meal, with a vast amount of meat, followed by beer and schnapps to ease digestion and prepare us for the Schrankogel tomorrow.
Routes: Rampe (u6-/f5b:sec), Rechte Wand (u6/f5c:led), Mittlere Wand (u5/f5a:sec), Linke Wand (f6a:sec), Kante (u6/f5c:led)
After my morning jog up Kofel, we headed straight for the Otztal in improving weather. The plan was to walk in to the Amberger hut around 4pm, but over a late lunch in Oetz I spied what looked like a roadside crag. We immediately revised our plans to squeeze a brief climbing session in, and it worked perfectly - particularly after being rained off the crags this morning. Oetz is an unusual crag, right next to a busy road and immediately above an industrial wood processing plant: not the most tranquil venue! Oetz itself is at the head of the Otztal, our proposed 'home valley' and is surrounded by mountains. The routes were good: around 20m high on excellent solid granite, all well bolted and highly convenient. Our time was very limited so it could hardly have been more suitable. Rampe was a good line up an inset slab to a steep final wall, which is replete with sharp holds and much easier than it looks. I then moved to the slabby wall immediately right, a fine sweep of granite, and led the arete line of Rechte Wand. This was a good route, quite delicate in places, with crisp moves low down giving access to the juggy arete with a tricky move to finish on small holds. Slightly overgraded, not noticeably harder than the 5a line to its left. Vic led the Linke, which gave more technical climbing to a steep finish on awkward side pulls and unhelpful holds. Finally, I just had time to bag another arete line: this time Kante, which takes the edge of the Rampe slab. This was nice but overgraded: nowhere near f5c, it felt like a two star British Severe with lovely flowing moves on positive holds in a nice position on the edge. We packed the gear away quickly and headed up the valley to the elevated hamlet of Gries above Langenfeld, where we enjoyed a delightful walk-in to the Amberger Hut. A great start to the trip, varied and productive, particularly after heavy rain this morning. It improved further as we arrived at the hut with eight minutes to spare before dinner, by pure fluke. A three course meal, with a vast amount of meat, followed by beer and schnapps to ease digestion and prepare us for the Schrankogel tomorrow.
Kofel
Peak: Kofel (1342m/4403ft)
Area: Ammergau Alps, Germany
Although its dimensions are small, the sharp limestone spire of the Kofel is very much the signature peak of the famous Bavarian town of Oberammagau. It made an ideal short outing this morning, as our Alpine trip got off to a soggy start and Sunday's long race was still in my legs. Vic had some things to sort out, so I set off alone from our excellent pension near the station in the middle of town, jogging along the river in the rain as the limestone spire of Kofel intermittently emerged from the mist directly above. An Alpine meadow lies above the car park and leads to broad zigzags as the forest is reached. Dank and atmospheric in these conditions: I had it virtually to myself, unsurprisingly. The forest was wreathed in mist and the zigzags gave good running up to the Kofelsattel, an obvious col below the final summit spire. A short level path leads to the spire (the Kofelsteig), which is a polished limestone scramble, easy and replete with chains. A short traverse leads to stepped rock, then a slabby open groove to the summit (less than an hour from the hotel). A brief clearance gave views of Ettal and I could hear cowbells below, but most of the time the Bavarian landscape was obscured by low cloud. It stopped raining, at least, and I jogged down under dripping trees with some spectacular clearances as I neared the bottom of the forest. We abandoned plans to climb nearby, and headed instead into Austria, over the Fernpass and a late lunch in Oetz as the weather began to gradually improve.
Area: Ammergau Alps, Germany
Although its dimensions are small, the sharp limestone spire of the Kofel is very much the signature peak of the famous Bavarian town of Oberammagau. It made an ideal short outing this morning, as our Alpine trip got off to a soggy start and Sunday's long race was still in my legs. Vic had some things to sort out, so I set off alone from our excellent pension near the station in the middle of town, jogging along the river in the rain as the limestone spire of Kofel intermittently emerged from the mist directly above. An Alpine meadow lies above the car park and leads to broad zigzags as the forest is reached. Dank and atmospheric in these conditions: I had it virtually to myself, unsurprisingly. The forest was wreathed in mist and the zigzags gave good running up to the Kofelsattel, an obvious col below the final summit spire. A short level path leads to the spire (the Kofelsteig), which is a polished limestone scramble, easy and replete with chains. A short traverse leads to stepped rock, then a slabby open groove to the summit (less than an hour from the hotel). A brief clearance gave views of Ettal and I could hear cowbells below, but most of the time the Bavarian landscape was obscured by low cloud. It stopped raining, at least, and I jogged down under dripping trees with some spectacular clearances as I neared the bottom of the forest. We abandoned plans to climb nearby, and headed instead into Austria, over the Fernpass and a late lunch in Oetz as the weather began to gradually improve.
Sunday, September 04, 2016
Stretton Skyline
Race: Stretton Skyline (31km/4500ft)
Time/Position: 3.33.46 (40th from 79)
Multiple races going on this weekend, and it was a little tricky to decide on the best choice. Caernarfon 10k would have been a more sensible option, but, mindful of the forthcoming Mourne Mountain Marathon I thought it might be a good idea to return to the Stretton Skyline for the first time since 2009. It emphatically was not, and I limped home a staggering 33 minutes slower than seven years ago! Having said that, it was at least a sociable option and I enjoyed the day (most of it anyway). It began well, jogging up from Carding Mill Valley with Peter and running with him along to Pole Bank at the top of the Long Mynd. The descent to the road is glorious, and well remembered from 2009: a sweeping series of ridge tracks and contouring paths leads to the village of Little Stretton. The steep climb up Ragleth that follows is probably the hardest climb on the race, but I felt reasonably fresh at this point and overtook a few runners towards the top. Great running on the ridge towards Caradoc before the descent. Here, things started to go wrong! Seven years is a long time, and I couldn't remember the best route down to the next checkpoint in Church Stretton. I took the left-hand path through the woods, which takes much longer, and was passed by at least ten runners, ending up behind a big group as I started the climb up Caer Caradoc. This was rather demoralising, but worse was to follow as I began to lose energy on Caradoc. A few slices of fudge didn't help much, and the rest of the day was a real struggle, the first time I have really suffered on a long fell race for a good few years. The descent from Caradoc to the Lawley gave some respite, and takes in some delightful countryside, but the long out and back to the Lawley was slow again. Returning to the A49, I knew what lay ahead: the climax of the race up the never-ending Motts Road back to the top of the Long Mynd. With good legs, this gentle gradient can be run efficiently. Drained of energy, it is a bit of a nightmare and I lost at least 15 places as I limped up the gentle slopes, literally walking most of the descent back down Carding Mill Valley to the finish in Church Stretton. Shame not to do this great race justice: not sure what the problem was, so will have to use the feeble excuse of a bad night's sleep!
Time/Position: 3.33.46 (40th from 79)
Multiple races going on this weekend, and it was a little tricky to decide on the best choice. Caernarfon 10k would have been a more sensible option, but, mindful of the forthcoming Mourne Mountain Marathon I thought it might be a good idea to return to the Stretton Skyline for the first time since 2009. It emphatically was not, and I limped home a staggering 33 minutes slower than seven years ago! Having said that, it was at least a sociable option and I enjoyed the day (most of it anyway). It began well, jogging up from Carding Mill Valley with Peter and running with him along to Pole Bank at the top of the Long Mynd. The descent to the road is glorious, and well remembered from 2009: a sweeping series of ridge tracks and contouring paths leads to the village of Little Stretton. The steep climb up Ragleth that follows is probably the hardest climb on the race, but I felt reasonably fresh at this point and overtook a few runners towards the top. Great running on the ridge towards Caradoc before the descent. Here, things started to go wrong! Seven years is a long time, and I couldn't remember the best route down to the next checkpoint in Church Stretton. I took the left-hand path through the woods, which takes much longer, and was passed by at least ten runners, ending up behind a big group as I started the climb up Caer Caradoc. This was rather demoralising, but worse was to follow as I began to lose energy on Caradoc. A few slices of fudge didn't help much, and the rest of the day was a real struggle, the first time I have really suffered on a long fell race for a good few years. The descent from Caradoc to the Lawley gave some respite, and takes in some delightful countryside, but the long out and back to the Lawley was slow again. Returning to the A49, I knew what lay ahead: the climax of the race up the never-ending Motts Road back to the top of the Long Mynd. With good legs, this gentle gradient can be run efficiently. Drained of energy, it is a bit of a nightmare and I lost at least 15 places as I limped up the gentle slopes, literally walking most of the descent back down Carding Mill Valley to the finish in Church Stretton. Shame not to do this great race justice: not sure what the problem was, so will have to use the feeble excuse of a bad night's sleep!
Thursday, September 01, 2016
Elidir Fawr race
Race: Ras Elidir Fawr (5m/3000ft)
Time/Position: 1.09.44 (11th from 48)
An exhilarating, classic horseshoe, staged during the last couple of hours of daylight on a September evening: all rather memorable. As with the Cnicht race on Saturday, this is one of very few Welsh mountain races that I've never done. I think it has been absent from the calendar from time to time, but staging it in the evening at this time of year seems like a great idea. The climb is, of course, pretty hard: familiar to most people because of the standard Welsh 3000s route. Although there are some short sections of respite, they are very short and in essence it's a continuous 3000ft slog from the village of Nant Peris. I didn't feel especially sharp after an afternoon of constant slate climbing, although a tailwind helped in places. Some rain, and mist playing round the summit, which I reached in 40 minutes. The descent is familiar from Pedol Peris: steep, rocky and technical initially, then a few grassy sections allow for quicker running until the path begins to contour round the top of Cwm Dudodyn below Foel Goch. The long, looping descent is absolutely superb: reminding me a bit of the Waun Fach race. Very fast, into a headwind with the light beginning to fade and mist swirling around Crib Goch and Cwm Glas across the Pass. I picked up a few places, then the route follows the spur on the opposite side of Cwm Dudodyn (indeed, it is perhaps more accurate to describe the race as the Dudodyn horseshoe). This gets rocky at the end of the spur, then steep and fast down to the cwm and back to Nant Peris. Across the river, then across a field to the finish for bara brith. Later, a pint and a good meal in the Faenol Arms rounded off an excellent evening: an appropriate start to what will be a busy September.
Time/Position: 1.09.44 (11th from 48)
An exhilarating, classic horseshoe, staged during the last couple of hours of daylight on a September evening: all rather memorable. As with the Cnicht race on Saturday, this is one of very few Welsh mountain races that I've never done. I think it has been absent from the calendar from time to time, but staging it in the evening at this time of year seems like a great idea. The climb is, of course, pretty hard: familiar to most people because of the standard Welsh 3000s route. Although there are some short sections of respite, they are very short and in essence it's a continuous 3000ft slog from the village of Nant Peris. I didn't feel especially sharp after an afternoon of constant slate climbing, although a tailwind helped in places. Some rain, and mist playing round the summit, which I reached in 40 minutes. The descent is familiar from Pedol Peris: steep, rocky and technical initially, then a few grassy sections allow for quicker running until the path begins to contour round the top of Cwm Dudodyn below Foel Goch. The long, looping descent is absolutely superb: reminding me a bit of the Waun Fach race. Very fast, into a headwind with the light beginning to fade and mist swirling around Crib Goch and Cwm Glas across the Pass. I picked up a few places, then the route follows the spur on the opposite side of Cwm Dudodyn (indeed, it is perhaps more accurate to describe the race as the Dudodyn horseshoe). This gets rocky at the end of the spur, then steep and fast down to the cwm and back to Nant Peris. Across the river, then across a field to the finish for bara brith. Later, a pint and a good meal in the Faenol Arms rounded off an excellent evening: an appropriate start to what will be a busy September.
Llanberis slate climbing
Crag: Never Never Land, Llanberis Slate
Routes: Titan (f4c:led), Zeus (f6a+:led), Operation Zig Zag (f5c:sec), The Gargoyle (f6a+:led), Octogenarian (f5b:sec), Learning to Fly (f5a:sec), Fresh Air (f6a:sec)
I like to have at least one session on slate each year and, when I do, always think I should go more often as I really enjoy it as a climbing medium. We were planning to combine a few slate climbs with the Elidir Fawr race this evening, so were quite late setting off in the afternoon. We headed from Dinorwig down to the brilliantly named Medusa's Lair: an enclosed gorge of slate right of the main Never Never Land slab. This sheltered us from some of the wind, but it remained cold, cloudy and windy all day. We all led the easy but worthwhile Titan as a warm-up: this takes a series of well defined grooves on the right of the wall. I then led Zeus at 6a+, a good route deserving a star. Steeper than the average low grade slate climb, some nice crisp moves lead up the wall to a pronounced crux. I initially attempted this to the left up tenuous smears before moving right where a few pulls on small holds gain a huge jug and easy climbing to the finish. Slightly soft for the grade but the grading here is at least more accurate than some of the absurdly overgraded new routes nearby. Mick then led a rather scruffy route, supposedly 5c, up the blunt arete of dolerite which leads to a slab. This was pleasant enough but massively overgraded: it would be 4 in Provence. Emerging from the gorge, I led The Gargoyle, also at f6a+. This is an interesting and varied route, slightly unnerving in places. It takes an easy slab to good moves left round the obvious arete before a very sharp and balancey crux move to gain the 'gargoyle', a jutting piece of slate below a hanging groove. The expected jug isn't there, so pinch holds and a high step are needed to straddle the feature (a novel and vaguely alarming move) and pull up into the groove. It remains awkward above, but not hard. Mick led two simple routes on the main face, both massively overgraded (really f4) and Vic finished with the pleasant detached slab of Fresh Air, which I've led a couple of times before. We just had time for the dash down to Nant Peris and a coffee before the second part of the afternoon began.
Routes: Titan (f4c:led), Zeus (f6a+:led), Operation Zig Zag (f5c:sec), The Gargoyle (f6a+:led), Octogenarian (f5b:sec), Learning to Fly (f5a:sec), Fresh Air (f6a:sec)
I like to have at least one session on slate each year and, when I do, always think I should go more often as I really enjoy it as a climbing medium. We were planning to combine a few slate climbs with the Elidir Fawr race this evening, so were quite late setting off in the afternoon. We headed from Dinorwig down to the brilliantly named Medusa's Lair: an enclosed gorge of slate right of the main Never Never Land slab. This sheltered us from some of the wind, but it remained cold, cloudy and windy all day. We all led the easy but worthwhile Titan as a warm-up: this takes a series of well defined grooves on the right of the wall. I then led Zeus at 6a+, a good route deserving a star. Steeper than the average low grade slate climb, some nice crisp moves lead up the wall to a pronounced crux. I initially attempted this to the left up tenuous smears before moving right where a few pulls on small holds gain a huge jug and easy climbing to the finish. Slightly soft for the grade but the grading here is at least more accurate than some of the absurdly overgraded new routes nearby. Mick then led a rather scruffy route, supposedly 5c, up the blunt arete of dolerite which leads to a slab. This was pleasant enough but massively overgraded: it would be 4 in Provence. Emerging from the gorge, I led The Gargoyle, also at f6a+. This is an interesting and varied route, slightly unnerving in places. It takes an easy slab to good moves left round the obvious arete before a very sharp and balancey crux move to gain the 'gargoyle', a jutting piece of slate below a hanging groove. The expected jug isn't there, so pinch holds and a high step are needed to straddle the feature (a novel and vaguely alarming move) and pull up into the groove. It remains awkward above, but not hard. Mick led two simple routes on the main face, both massively overgraded (really f4) and Vic finished with the pleasant detached slab of Fresh Air, which I've led a couple of times before. We just had time for the dash down to Nant Peris and a coffee before the second part of the afternoon began.
Sunday, August 28, 2016
Cnicht race
Race: Ras y Cnicht (4.5m/1850ft)
Time/Position: 46.14 (14th from 64)
Because this race clashes with the Cilcain mountain race, which I did every year for a decade from 2003, I've never done it before. After 'retiring' from Cilcain, I then did the Wild Wales cycling event on the same day, so Cnicht remained one of the very few North Wales mountain races 'unticked'. I have walked up the peak numerous times from Croesor, however, and always thought that the race must be a classic 'up and down' from the village. It is indeed, with steep tarmac giving way to the track through beautiful oak woodland. Then a bit of a respite as the path winds up the lower slopes towards the conical summit that gives it the hackneyed 'Welsh Matterhorn' nickname. I felt reasonably good initially, but slowed a bit towards the top of the approach slopes which are inevitably steeper than they first appear! From here, the route becomes rocky until you reach the scrambly chimney with gives access to the summit. It was misty for this top section, which limited route choice on the descent. I suspect detailed local knowledge might yield some racing lines, but as it was I stuck to the main route including the chimney which is obviously fairly hazardous to descend. All rather slow until gaining the grassier lower section. Having said that, I gained a place and finished reasonably quickly. A few seconds over 30 minutes to the summit, 15 back down to the finish. We then enjoyed the novelty of the slate swimming pool 'ice bath' in the village: I managed full submersion and two widths!
Time/Position: 46.14 (14th from 64)
Because this race clashes with the Cilcain mountain race, which I did every year for a decade from 2003, I've never done it before. After 'retiring' from Cilcain, I then did the Wild Wales cycling event on the same day, so Cnicht remained one of the very few North Wales mountain races 'unticked'. I have walked up the peak numerous times from Croesor, however, and always thought that the race must be a classic 'up and down' from the village. It is indeed, with steep tarmac giving way to the track through beautiful oak woodland. Then a bit of a respite as the path winds up the lower slopes towards the conical summit that gives it the hackneyed 'Welsh Matterhorn' nickname. I felt reasonably good initially, but slowed a bit towards the top of the approach slopes which are inevitably steeper than they first appear! From here, the route becomes rocky until you reach the scrambly chimney with gives access to the summit. It was misty for this top section, which limited route choice on the descent. I suspect detailed local knowledge might yield some racing lines, but as it was I stuck to the main route including the chimney which is obviously fairly hazardous to descend. All rather slow until gaining the grassier lower section. Having said that, I gained a place and finished reasonably quickly. A few seconds over 30 minutes to the summit, 15 back down to the finish. We then enjoyed the novelty of the slate swimming pool 'ice bath' in the village: I managed full submersion and two widths!
Thursday, August 25, 2016
Chwarel Penrhyn climbing
Crag: Chwarel Bach y Penrhyn (Penrhyn Bay)
Routes: Cobra (f4:sh), Sidewinder (f3:sol/sh), Sidewinder variant (f5:sh), One-Eyed Trouser Snake (f4:sol/sh)
A minor venue indeed! Certainly not a crag to make a special trip to, but ideal for my purposes today with just an hour to spare first thing in the morning. The Twin Piers 10k goes right past this obscure quarry but it is so small it is barely noticeable from the dual carriageway over the Little Orme. It is reasonably high though, 15m or so. The routes are quite easy but characterised by rather smooth limestone and sloping holds. The two harder routes through the obvious overhang are not really feasible on shunt, with one hard move low down, so I did some variants on the other routes instead. The two on the left are slabby and easy, with a better line taking the obvious groove with a borehole on the right.
Routes: Cobra (f4:sh), Sidewinder (f3:sol/sh), Sidewinder variant (f5:sh), One-Eyed Trouser Snake (f4:sol/sh)
A minor venue indeed! Certainly not a crag to make a special trip to, but ideal for my purposes today with just an hour to spare first thing in the morning. The Twin Piers 10k goes right past this obscure quarry but it is so small it is barely noticeable from the dual carriageway over the Little Orme. It is reasonably high though, 15m or so. The routes are quite easy but characterised by rather smooth limestone and sloping holds. The two harder routes through the obvious overhang are not really feasible on shunt, with one hard move low down, so I did some variants on the other routes instead. The two on the left are slabby and easy, with a better line taking the obvious groove with a borehole on the right.
Wednesday, August 24, 2016
Aber-Bwlch y Ddaefaen-Cae Coch-Sychnant-Conwy
I felt too sluggish for my planned reprise of the Capel Curig-Conwy traverse, so after a family walk in Betws I got dropped off at the coast near Abergwyngregyn and ran to Bwlch y Ddaefaen. From here, I joined the Penmaenmawr fell race route, turning off at Cae Coch then continuing all the way down the fantastic gently descending track to the Sychnant Pass where I took some obscure paths and extended the run somewhat. More wonderful weather, particularly towards the end of the run. On Friday, I did a slightly shorter version of the North Wales half marathon route over Sychnant to Penmaenmawr then back via the coastal cycle path to the Morfa.
Tuesday, August 23, 2016
Conwy valley climbing
Crag: Penmaenbach Quarry
Routes: Smart A55 (f3+:led)
Crag: Clogwyn Cyrau
Routes: The Groove (VD:led), Siencyn (S:sec), Sion (S:sec)
In tutorial mode with E and M, who had both agreed to accompany me climbing. We walked to Penmaenbach first from Sychnant in more glorious late summer weather, the heather and gorse in full bloom and the sea calm and deep blue below. I led the obvious slabby groove right of the delicate 6a arete that I did last year. Both children followed easily, and M also got up the slab further right with a tricky start. Plas y Brenin then arrived, rather spoiling the atmosphere, so we headed back to Conwy. Later that week, we did a bit more climbing at Clogwyn Cyrau: a few easy routes in light rain. Both children enjoyed it without being overly enthusiastic.
Routes: Smart A55 (f3+:led)
Crag: Clogwyn Cyrau
Routes: The Groove (VD:led), Siencyn (S:sec), Sion (S:sec)
In tutorial mode with E and M, who had both agreed to accompany me climbing. We walked to Penmaenbach first from Sychnant in more glorious late summer weather, the heather and gorse in full bloom and the sea calm and deep blue below. I led the obvious slabby groove right of the delicate 6a arete that I did last year. Both children followed easily, and M also got up the slab further right with a tricky start. Plas y Brenin then arrived, rather spoiling the atmosphere, so we headed back to Conwy. Later that week, we did a bit more climbing at Clogwyn Cyrau: a few easy routes in light rain. Both children enjoyed it without being overly enthusiastic.
Monday, August 22, 2016
Conwy climb and run
Crag: Conwy Mountain Slab
Routes: Left-Hand Crack (VD:sol), Oaklands (S:sol), Central Crack (M:sol)
In Conwy for a few days, so indulged in my usual jog up Mynydd y Dref in glorious late afternoon sunshine an hour or two after arriving. I paused to pad up and down a few routes on the slab, lovely in the warm sunshine, before continuing to the top and the usual great views over the Orme, sea and Carneddau.
Routes: Left-Hand Crack (VD:sol), Oaklands (S:sol), Central Crack (M:sol)
In Conwy for a few days, so indulged in my usual jog up Mynydd y Dref in glorious late afternoon sunshine an hour or two after arriving. I paused to pad up and down a few routes on the slab, lovely in the warm sunshine, before continuing to the top and the usual great views over the Orme, sea and Carneddau.
Sunday, August 21, 2016
Birchwood 10k
Race: Birchwood 10k (Warrington)
Time/Position: 36.59 (29th from 1012 [4th V45])
As the family enjoyed combining this race with an Ikea visit last year, it seemed a good opportunity to repeat it. But having blown up very badly over the last 5k and recorded my slowest 10k time for years in 2015, I started very slowly this year, conscious that I never do speedwork (or road races) over summer and so can't hope to hold any kind of pace. This worked reasonably well, and I enjoyed the race more this year: but my finishing time was inevitably slow given the plodding pace, only marginally better than 2015. Very well organised race, which goes past the front of the Warrington campus at one point. It has never seemed a particularly quick course to me though, with lots of twists and turns, and a few long drags.
Time/Position: 36.59 (29th from 1012 [4th V45])
As the family enjoyed combining this race with an Ikea visit last year, it seemed a good opportunity to repeat it. But having blown up very badly over the last 5k and recorded my slowest 10k time for years in 2015, I started very slowly this year, conscious that I never do speedwork (or road races) over summer and so can't hope to hold any kind of pace. This worked reasonably well, and I enjoyed the race more this year: but my finishing time was inevitably slow given the plodding pace, only marginally better than 2015. Very well organised race, which goes past the front of the Warrington campus at one point. It has never seemed a particularly quick course to me though, with lots of twists and turns, and a few long drags.
Tuesday, August 16, 2016
Clogwyn Cyrau climbing
Crag: Clogwyn Cyrau (Betws y Coed)
Routes: Conwy Corner (S:sec), Long Climb Direct (S:led), Central Route/Long Climb (HS:sec), Bomber's Wall Route Route One (HS 4b,4b:led p.1)
A little tired after the last few days, and my early start, so Vic's suggestion of Clogwyn Cyrau sounded like a good idea. I've done all these routes before, but that is not always a bad thing and lent a welcome relaxed air to the morning. The beautiful morning turned into a perfect August day, with wonderful views over Siabod from the top of the crag with the heather and rowan in full bloom: unusual clarity for the time of year. Conwy Corner is a nice line with mild bridging, probably the third time I've done it. A predictably overgrown descent path, followed by a walk to the main crag where I kicked off with Long Climb Direct: this is a nice 30m pitch up a steepish corner to an old oak tree before a slabby and easy finish. Vic set off up Central Climb, but ended up traversing right along the original Long Climb instead: I did exactly the same thing when trying to lead this hard to follow VS a few years ago. After lunch, we finished with Bomber's Wall where I led the nice first pitch up a rib to a thread, then a broad groove with some tricky moves to a sapling. Easy ground leads to a huge flake belay. Above, Vic led the enjoyable finishing groove. There are two independent versions of this route - I've certainly done it before, but couldn't quite remember which version! Hot and sweaty by now, so the dappled woodland descent gave a welcome cool-down.
Routes: Conwy Corner (S:sec), Long Climb Direct (S:led), Central Route/Long Climb (HS:sec), Bomber's Wall Route Route One (HS 4b,4b:led p.1)
A little tired after the last few days, and my early start, so Vic's suggestion of Clogwyn Cyrau sounded like a good idea. I've done all these routes before, but that is not always a bad thing and lent a welcome relaxed air to the morning. The beautiful morning turned into a perfect August day, with wonderful views over Siabod from the top of the crag with the heather and rowan in full bloom: unusual clarity for the time of year. Conwy Corner is a nice line with mild bridging, probably the third time I've done it. A predictably overgrown descent path, followed by a walk to the main crag where I kicked off with Long Climb Direct: this is a nice 30m pitch up a steepish corner to an old oak tree before a slabby and easy finish. Vic set off up Central Climb, but ended up traversing right along the original Long Climb instead: I did exactly the same thing when trying to lead this hard to follow VS a few years ago. After lunch, we finished with Bomber's Wall where I led the nice first pitch up a rib to a thread, then a broad groove with some tricky moves to a sapling. Easy ground leads to a huge flake belay. Above, Vic led the enjoyable finishing groove. There are two independent versions of this route - I've certainly done it before, but couldn't quite remember which version! Hot and sweaty by now, so the dappled woodland descent gave a welcome cool-down.
Ffestiniog climbing
Crag: Carreg y Foel Gron (Ffestiniog)
Routes: Elephant's Crawl (VD:sol), Cracked Slab (VD:solbr), Tiger Feet (VS 4b:sh)
Woke up at 6am after a pleasant night at Llyn Dubach and, after a cuppa and some porridge headed up to Carreg y Foel Gron which looms above the lake and is very obvious from the Ffestiniog road. Despite that, I've never actually climbed here before. It is used by outdoor centres, I think, but is surprisingly unpolished and reminiscent of the main Moelwyn crags to the west. That means that it is riddled with lovely incut holds and pockets, with gentle slabs ideal for solo entertainment. I nipped up the inset slab to the right of the main crag to begin: easy but enjoyable out towards the arete on the right. After a downclimb, I took the precaution of setting up a backrope on the main slab before abbing off and nipping up Cracked Slab. This is a nice varied 30m pitch at the grade: up a steepish but juggy crack to a trickier move over an overlap. I popped a clove hitch on the backrope for the final few moves up the finishing slab: with the early morning sunshine just beginning to warm the face. I used the shunt for the harder line of Tiger Feet which goes directly up the slab further right - delicate to start - then finishes more steeply over a bulge with one tricky move right at the top. I then jogged round to the hidden upper tier with fantastic early morning views over Llyn Morwynion and Cwm Cynfal to the Rhinogydd and Llyn peninsula. Some of the arete lines looked great but there are no belays at all above most of the routes, so with regret I jogged back to the car for a wonderful drive down the minor road to Cwm Penmachno then Betws. Wonderful views in more perfect weather, and a delightful riverside breakfast at Pont y Pair while I waited for the second part of the day.
Routes: Elephant's Crawl (VD:sol), Cracked Slab (VD:solbr), Tiger Feet (VS 4b:sh)
Woke up at 6am after a pleasant night at Llyn Dubach and, after a cuppa and some porridge headed up to Carreg y Foel Gron which looms above the lake and is very obvious from the Ffestiniog road. Despite that, I've never actually climbed here before. It is used by outdoor centres, I think, but is surprisingly unpolished and reminiscent of the main Moelwyn crags to the west. That means that it is riddled with lovely incut holds and pockets, with gentle slabs ideal for solo entertainment. I nipped up the inset slab to the right of the main crag to begin: easy but enjoyable out towards the arete on the right. After a downclimb, I took the precaution of setting up a backrope on the main slab before abbing off and nipping up Cracked Slab. This is a nice varied 30m pitch at the grade: up a steepish but juggy crack to a trickier move over an overlap. I popped a clove hitch on the backrope for the final few moves up the finishing slab: with the early morning sunshine just beginning to warm the face. I used the shunt for the harder line of Tiger Feet which goes directly up the slab further right - delicate to start - then finishes more steeply over a bulge with one tricky move right at the top. I then jogged round to the hidden upper tier with fantastic early morning views over Llyn Morwynion and Cwm Cynfal to the Rhinogydd and Llyn peninsula. Some of the arete lines looked great but there are no belays at all above most of the routes, so with regret I jogged back to the car for a wonderful drive down the minor road to Cwm Penmachno then Betws. Wonderful views in more perfect weather, and a delightful riverside breakfast at Pont y Pair while I waited for the second part of the day.
Monday, August 15, 2016
Yr Arddu climbing
Crag: Lliwedd Bychan (Yr Arddu)
Routes: Heather Gully (D:sol), Central Route (VD:sh), Orthin (HS 4b:sh), Eastern Route (S:sol/sh), Right Gully Rim (D:sol), Left Gully Rim (D:sol)
I last drove up the single track road from Gwynant to Nantmor in 1989, but only remembered quite how narrow it is when I was an irreversible mile in to it. After lengthy shenanigans and a ludicrous encounter with a steam roller I arrived at Coed Dolfnog south of Buarthau and began what I suspected might be a tenuous walk-in to the somewhat obscure crags of Yr Arddu. The narrow path, marked on the map, is navigable initially through the superb oak woodland. Above this, however, the wet summer had rendered it essentially impassable. I followed the wall above the woods first, but gave up in extraordinary neck-deep ferns. I've experienced this kind of thing all too often, however, so persisted higher up the western side of Yr Arddu. It got worse as I tried to contour round to the obvious wall that heads east to the crags: heather, bogs, ferns, thistles. I lost my water bottle in the chaos: cue dehydration to add to the fun. It was as bad as anything I've experienced in a lifetime of this sort of nonsense, including the northern Rhinogs, and my legs were still a bit tired after yesterday's race. After a steep climb, much blood and torn clothing, the terrain got better (just bog and waist deep ferns) and a tiny path led to Lliwedd Bychan. This gave a splendid couple of hours entertainment, a 30m slabby crag ideal for the solo wanderer with superb views to Cnicht, Moelwynion and Traeth Lafan: perfect weather, warm sunshine and crystal clear clarity throughout. The sun had just left the face as I plotted my way up the delightfully simple Heather Gully, then abbed off for Central Route (partially shunted), which takes a gently sustained line up the face on sharp little holds. Good consistent pitch at the grade. Orthin was a tad more technical, with good 4b moves over a bulge at the top, then I moved the backrope a little. Eastern Route is probably the most obvious actual line: taking a slab to a shallow corner, then steeper moves trending left to the top. Two easy solos completed the fun. My plan was then to run up Cnicht, but the walk-in (and the fact that I didn't start until nearly 4pm having spent most of the day at work) put paid to that. Instead I bushwhacked my way out, shedding more blood and sweat, and plunged my head into the stream above the woods, drinking deeply with huge relief. After a wash in the River Nantmor next to the car, I retired for fish and chips in Penrhyndaedraeth then a peaceful night next to Llyn Dubach in the moors between Llan Ffestiniog and Penmachno, the ancestral home. A full moon rising over Arenig and beautiful pink sunset made up for the midges.
Routes: Heather Gully (D:sol), Central Route (VD:sh), Orthin (HS 4b:sh), Eastern Route (S:sol/sh), Right Gully Rim (D:sol), Left Gully Rim (D:sol)
I last drove up the single track road from Gwynant to Nantmor in 1989, but only remembered quite how narrow it is when I was an irreversible mile in to it. After lengthy shenanigans and a ludicrous encounter with a steam roller I arrived at Coed Dolfnog south of Buarthau and began what I suspected might be a tenuous walk-in to the somewhat obscure crags of Yr Arddu. The narrow path, marked on the map, is navigable initially through the superb oak woodland. Above this, however, the wet summer had rendered it essentially impassable. I followed the wall above the woods first, but gave up in extraordinary neck-deep ferns. I've experienced this kind of thing all too often, however, so persisted higher up the western side of Yr Arddu. It got worse as I tried to contour round to the obvious wall that heads east to the crags: heather, bogs, ferns, thistles. I lost my water bottle in the chaos: cue dehydration to add to the fun. It was as bad as anything I've experienced in a lifetime of this sort of nonsense, including the northern Rhinogs, and my legs were still a bit tired after yesterday's race. After a steep climb, much blood and torn clothing, the terrain got better (just bog and waist deep ferns) and a tiny path led to Lliwedd Bychan. This gave a splendid couple of hours entertainment, a 30m slabby crag ideal for the solo wanderer with superb views to Cnicht, Moelwynion and Traeth Lafan: perfect weather, warm sunshine and crystal clear clarity throughout. The sun had just left the face as I plotted my way up the delightfully simple Heather Gully, then abbed off for Central Route (partially shunted), which takes a gently sustained line up the face on sharp little holds. Good consistent pitch at the grade. Orthin was a tad more technical, with good 4b moves over a bulge at the top, then I moved the backrope a little. Eastern Route is probably the most obvious actual line: taking a slab to a shallow corner, then steeper moves trending left to the top. Two easy solos completed the fun. My plan was then to run up Cnicht, but the walk-in (and the fact that I didn't start until nearly 4pm having spent most of the day at work) put paid to that. Instead I bushwhacked my way out, shedding more blood and sweat, and plunged my head into the stream above the woods, drinking deeply with huge relief. After a wash in the River Nantmor next to the car, I retired for fish and chips in Penrhyndaedraeth then a peaceful night next to Llyn Dubach in the moors between Llan Ffestiniog and Penmachno, the ancestral home. A full moon rising over Arenig and beautiful pink sunset made up for the midges.
Sunday, August 14, 2016
Two Hillforts race
Race: Two Hillforts fell race (9.3m/2000ft)
Time/Position: 71.04 (8th from 104)
Since this race was launched a couple of years ago, I assumed it was a version of the now defunct Tavern Trail or Lletty. It actually takes quite a different route around the northern end of the Clwydian range and is a very runnable route. So runnable, in fact, that I went off far too quickly, thinking any remaining road pace might push me up the field. In reality, I couldn't hold the pace and blew as soon as the route steepened below Pen y Cloddiau. From Llandyrnog, the route goes across fields to the road taken by the Vale of Clwyd 10k. This continues much further up before breaking off for a steep path that I couldn't remember running before. This takes a direct line to the Pen y Cloddiau car park. Superb level running around the side of that hill before a short, steep climb gains the summit. I know this area well, and love the descent down OD towards Moel Arthur. I was in fifth place at this point, but knew the game was up as we started the climb to Arthur, paying the price for the quick start and lack of recent speed work. From the top of Moel Arthur, a very long but not too steep descent to Llandyrnog awaits, taking the road and long contouring bridleway. Theoretically ideal, but I was still blowing badly and really struggled: ended up being passed by three and finishing eighth.
Time/Position: 71.04 (8th from 104)
Since this race was launched a couple of years ago, I assumed it was a version of the now defunct Tavern Trail or Lletty. It actually takes quite a different route around the northern end of the Clwydian range and is a very runnable route. So runnable, in fact, that I went off far too quickly, thinking any remaining road pace might push me up the field. In reality, I couldn't hold the pace and blew as soon as the route steepened below Pen y Cloddiau. From Llandyrnog, the route goes across fields to the road taken by the Vale of Clwyd 10k. This continues much further up before breaking off for a steep path that I couldn't remember running before. This takes a direct line to the Pen y Cloddiau car park. Superb level running around the side of that hill before a short, steep climb gains the summit. I know this area well, and love the descent down OD towards Moel Arthur. I was in fifth place at this point, but knew the game was up as we started the climb to Arthur, paying the price for the quick start and lack of recent speed work. From the top of Moel Arthur, a very long but not too steep descent to Llandyrnog awaits, taking the road and long contouring bridleway. Theoretically ideal, but I was still blowing badly and really struggled: ended up being passed by three and finishing eighth.
Friday, August 12, 2016
Minera climbing
Crag: Minera Quarry
Routes: Easy Grooves (f4c:led), The Quartz Slab (f6a:led), Thin Grey Wall (f6c:led), Narrow Arete (f6a+:led), Hard Start (f6a+:sec), Quartz Wall variant (f6b:sec)
It is a shame that this venue is so small and limited, as the climbing is quite good and it is only a 20 minute drive from my front door. This was a brief but enjoyable session ticking the remainder of the crag after my initial visit last week. We moved systematically from right to left: beginning with the very easy but pleasant line of shallow grooves. Gentle but nice. The Quartz Slab to its left was more delicate with nice technical moves leading to a superb but tiny quartz slab: if this went on for 50ft it would be a classic. As it is, two crisp moves on incut holds gets you to the top. Virtually all the routes on the crag are overgraded, a common issue with UK sports routes, and the Thin Grey Wall was no exception. Supposedly f6c, it is indeed quite technical with some intricate moves, but nowhere near 6c, which is my leading limit. I led this clean and onsight. Good friction, small footholds and neat edging up to an awkward rockover on to a long thin ledge. Nicely sustained, probably more like 6a+. Narrow Arete gives another pleasant climb, up the eponymous feature via some technical moves on small holds. Again, never particularly hard, probably 5+. The route to its left is steep to start, as its name suggests, and looks disjointed: but is quite good again. I climbed Quartz Wall from the same lower-off so moved left at the top to avoid the pendulum (and therefore the full tick). Good rough limestone: if only the crag was twice as high and six times as long.
Routes: Easy Grooves (f4c:led), The Quartz Slab (f6a:led), Thin Grey Wall (f6c:led), Narrow Arete (f6a+:led), Hard Start (f6a+:sec), Quartz Wall variant (f6b:sec)
It is a shame that this venue is so small and limited, as the climbing is quite good and it is only a 20 minute drive from my front door. This was a brief but enjoyable session ticking the remainder of the crag after my initial visit last week. We moved systematically from right to left: beginning with the very easy but pleasant line of shallow grooves. Gentle but nice. The Quartz Slab to its left was more delicate with nice technical moves leading to a superb but tiny quartz slab: if this went on for 50ft it would be a classic. As it is, two crisp moves on incut holds gets you to the top. Virtually all the routes on the crag are overgraded, a common issue with UK sports routes, and the Thin Grey Wall was no exception. Supposedly f6c, it is indeed quite technical with some intricate moves, but nowhere near 6c, which is my leading limit. I led this clean and onsight. Good friction, small footholds and neat edging up to an awkward rockover on to a long thin ledge. Nicely sustained, probably more like 6a+. Narrow Arete gives another pleasant climb, up the eponymous feature via some technical moves on small holds. Again, never particularly hard, probably 5+. The route to its left is steep to start, as its name suggests, and looks disjointed: but is quite good again. I climbed Quartz Wall from the same lower-off so moved left at the top to avoid the pendulum (and therefore the full tick). Good rough limestone: if only the crag was twice as high and six times as long.
Sunday, August 07, 2016
Glyder Fach climbing
Crag: Glyder Fach
Routes: Hawk's Nest Arete (VS 4c,4a:led p.2), Needle's Eye Climb (VD:led p.1), Route II (VD:led p.1)
What was intended to be a day of cragging on high 'summer' cliffs turned into a classic mountaineering day out incorporating not one, but two traditional chimney pitches. This was largely because of bad weather: with strong winds, swirling mist and intermittent drizzle throughout. I used to climb on Glyder Fach a lot, and have ticked most of the lower grade classics. One such, fondly remembered, is Hawk's Nest Arete, which I did with Tim in the 90s. Vic hadn't done it, so we took the hour-long slog past Bochlwyd up to the detached buttress, right of the main crag, and he led it in high winds. It was cold on the fingers, which isn't ideal on this route, which has a surprisingly delicate crux. It looks much harder from below and is a very elegant line. Easy, juggy climbing up to a large block, before a steeper crack leads to a surprisingly hard crux using sidepulls and small holds to gain jugs above. It remains thought provoking above, with a thin finger crack leading to a ledge. All made much harder today by strong winds and cold fingers. A little drizzle in the air at times to add to the fun. The second pitch, my lead, is far easier but was wet and a bit dirty in places. It takes a wide and slightly thrutchy crack to gain a side crack and the top. The descent is complex but quite absorbing and atmospheric, particularly now that the mist had descended and was swirling round the pinnacles and gullies that characterise this part of the crag. We traversed over to Dolmen buttress and then intricately down Central Gully with some caution. After some lunch, I merged the first two pitches of Needle's Eye Climb. This was an obvious choice for two reasons: it is enclosed and out of the increasingly strong wind, and I hadn't done it before. The first pitch goes up a juggy slab to a mantelshelf which gains the top of the initial chimney. Then easy and vegetated climbing up to a clean rib. The next pitch is ungradeable and pretty memorable. Somewhat reminiscent of other famous thrutches like Monolith Crack and the Chasm, but essentially unique. A slab leads to a delicate traverse towards the wide crack behind a pinnacle (this is the 'needle'). It is impossible to get through this initially, even for skinny people. The only solution is to strenuously udge up the crack, with one leg 'cycling' up the outside wall. Eventually it becomes possible to squeeze through the crack to gain the cave beyond like a cork popping out of a bottle! The route keeps coming in this traditional vein, up a pinnacle and several cracks to the top. The mist swirled round and the drizzle got a bit heavier, so we continued the Victorian theme, starting to really enjoy and embrace the unexpected mountaineering ethos of the day. We traversed over to Dolmen Buttress. I have never climbed here before, one of the highest crags in Snowdonia. I led the easy classic of Route II: the first pitch goes up a fine clean slab on jugs. It is exposed for the grade, traversing out to the edge of the slab initially. From the mid-height platform, Vic then led the ultra-traditional top pitch up a very atmospheric chimney in the mist and rain. This goes easily at first, to gain the dank, cave-like interior. Then a back and foot thrutch, during which I tore my coat and dropped my nut key into the depths of the cave. From the top of an internal pinnacle, an easy traverse left allows for an escape to be made! Slightly reminiscent of Great Gully on Craig yr Ysfa: an esoteric little gem despite its lowly grade. Another complex descent, made more problematic by the fact that we were higher on the crag: tricky downclimb to gain Central Gully. Then directly down to boggy Bochlwyd and the car.
Routes: Hawk's Nest Arete (VS 4c,4a:led p.2), Needle's Eye Climb (VD:led p.1), Route II (VD:led p.1)
What was intended to be a day of cragging on high 'summer' cliffs turned into a classic mountaineering day out incorporating not one, but two traditional chimney pitches. This was largely because of bad weather: with strong winds, swirling mist and intermittent drizzle throughout. I used to climb on Glyder Fach a lot, and have ticked most of the lower grade classics. One such, fondly remembered, is Hawk's Nest Arete, which I did with Tim in the 90s. Vic hadn't done it, so we took the hour-long slog past Bochlwyd up to the detached buttress, right of the main crag, and he led it in high winds. It was cold on the fingers, which isn't ideal on this route, which has a surprisingly delicate crux. It looks much harder from below and is a very elegant line. Easy, juggy climbing up to a large block, before a steeper crack leads to a surprisingly hard crux using sidepulls and small holds to gain jugs above. It remains thought provoking above, with a thin finger crack leading to a ledge. All made much harder today by strong winds and cold fingers. A little drizzle in the air at times to add to the fun. The second pitch, my lead, is far easier but was wet and a bit dirty in places. It takes a wide and slightly thrutchy crack to gain a side crack and the top. The descent is complex but quite absorbing and atmospheric, particularly now that the mist had descended and was swirling round the pinnacles and gullies that characterise this part of the crag. We traversed over to Dolmen buttress and then intricately down Central Gully with some caution. After some lunch, I merged the first two pitches of Needle's Eye Climb. This was an obvious choice for two reasons: it is enclosed and out of the increasingly strong wind, and I hadn't done it before. The first pitch goes up a juggy slab to a mantelshelf which gains the top of the initial chimney. Then easy and vegetated climbing up to a clean rib. The next pitch is ungradeable and pretty memorable. Somewhat reminiscent of other famous thrutches like Monolith Crack and the Chasm, but essentially unique. A slab leads to a delicate traverse towards the wide crack behind a pinnacle (this is the 'needle'). It is impossible to get through this initially, even for skinny people. The only solution is to strenuously udge up the crack, with one leg 'cycling' up the outside wall. Eventually it becomes possible to squeeze through the crack to gain the cave beyond like a cork popping out of a bottle! The route keeps coming in this traditional vein, up a pinnacle and several cracks to the top. The mist swirled round and the drizzle got a bit heavier, so we continued the Victorian theme, starting to really enjoy and embrace the unexpected mountaineering ethos of the day. We traversed over to Dolmen Buttress. I have never climbed here before, one of the highest crags in Snowdonia. I led the easy classic of Route II: the first pitch goes up a fine clean slab on jugs. It is exposed for the grade, traversing out to the edge of the slab initially. From the mid-height platform, Vic then led the ultra-traditional top pitch up a very atmospheric chimney in the mist and rain. This goes easily at first, to gain the dank, cave-like interior. Then a back and foot thrutch, during which I tore my coat and dropped my nut key into the depths of the cave. From the top of an internal pinnacle, an easy traverse left allows for an escape to be made! Slightly reminiscent of Great Gully on Craig yr Ysfa: an esoteric little gem despite its lowly grade. Another complex descent, made more problematic by the fact that we were higher on the crag: tricky downclimb to gain Central Gully. Then directly down to boggy Bochlwyd and the car.
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