Round the Walls race

Race: Round the Walls, Chester (6k)
Time/Position: 23.53 (10th from 491 [1st V45])
With the walls under refurbishment in two places, the race route must have been hard for the organisers to work out this year. There was no ice this morning though (always a concern on this race as it means the walls can't be run). Instead, just a nice sunny day as we headed off for a lap of the car park then short loop of the Roodee (as in 2014). From here, the race headed down Sealand Road then up past Telford's and the locks to take the cobbled canal towpath before joining the walls much higher up near the cathedral. Flying along the walls is what this race is all about, it always gives exciting racing, and I managed to gain a few places and get close to a compact group of five who were themselves well behind the lead five runners. Brilliant running past the clock and down to the Dee, and although I couldn't catch the faster group in front I just squeezed into the top 10 for the second time. Kate enjoyed it too: my fifth time at this race, which works so well as a bracing family outing on Boxing Day morning,

Wepre Parkrun

"Race": Wepre Parkrun (5k)
Time/Position: 20.16 (6th)
My Parkrun debut, after almost 500 'formal' races since 1982. Legs were a little tender after yesterday's exertions in the Berwyn storm, but these are not races, merely 'timed runs'. A little lap (on which I have previously marshalled) with a sharp climb leads to two longer laps each containing two longer climbs. The course is quite challenging and would make an excellent hard XC course with one or two more laps. I really enjoyed it, despite my jaded limbs which remained creaky and tired throughout, and despite the fact I recorded my slowest ever 5k time by quite a considerable margin! In fact I was three minutes slower even than this year's best 5k time, but this is certainly not a quick course (in fact, some say it is the hardest UK Parkrun). It is the 32nd week at Wepre, so I was rather surprised to break the course record for my V45 age category. Very nice inclusive event: neatly followed by our usual Christmas Eve walk.

Berwyn horseshoe

Peaks: Mynydd Tarw, Foel Wen, Tomle, Cadair Berwyn, Moel Sych, Moel yr Ewig, Godor
Area: Berwyn, Denbighshire
After a dry interlude yesterday (and a walk up Conwy mountain with the children), another depression swept in today. Dubbed Storm Barbara, it was another example of unfortunate pre-Christmas timing. In the event, however, Jez and I arrived in Cwm Maen Gwynedd just after 9am, and the worst of the weather had yet to arrive. We wasted no time, and injected a bit of pace for the steep climb up Mynydd Tarw: tarmac, then track, then steep fields. But the climb gets you onto the ridge very quickly: probably my fourth time round this excellent horseshoe. I thought it would make a good choice today, relatively sheltered in the east, and always with the option of dropping into the valley if things get too extreme. Ferocious gusts as we ran across the boggy terrain to the north: over Foel Wen and its tops, blown into the fence a few times. But it stayed dry initially, with a surprisingly high cloud base. After Tomle, Ffordd Saeson gave a few minutes respite before the main Berwyn ridge into the teeth of the gale. However, it wasn't quite as bad as I'd expected. Jez coped with the conditions better than I did, but we made good progress and even got some fine views to the south as we skirted Cwm Maen Gwynedd. The usual bog on top of the ironically named Moel Sych, then we took the great contouring narrow path down to Moel yr Ewig and along the ridge in deteriorating conditions: heavy rain and gale-force winds throughout. From Godor, an excellent fast descent back down to the valley bottom (2.15 for the round). Warmed up in front of the fire in The Hand, Llanarmon Dyffryn Ceiriog.

Carneddau run

Peaks: Foel Dduarth, Yr Orsedd, Drum
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
The familiar diabolical weather on our pre-Christmas outing, although it was particularly unfortunate this year after two weeks of stable conditions. Options were by definition limited, but it was at least dry as we set off from Aber. The steep tarmac start to the Foel Fras race is never pleasant, but you do gain height quickly. The very steep climb up gorse to Foel Dduarth is demanding, but again over quite quickly. From here, the grassy ridge always gives superb running over to Yr Orsedd. The wind picked up at this point, and the black clouds gathering to the west moved overhead. As we dropped down to the main Drum track, horizontal hail and icy blasts made life very difficult. Conditions got progressively worse as we climbed towards Drum: painful hail, poor visibility and ferocious gusts. At the summit of Drum, the wind whipped across the ridge: conversation was impossible so I gestured to Peter that a descent to Cwm Anafon was on my mind! He seemed to agree. Problem was that this was into the teeth of the gale: hard work initially, very hard to see. But I have used this as an escape route before and it works well. Half way down, the wind eased and in the cwm it was much gentler. We were finally able to communicate as we ran back north then extended the run down old tracks to end up on the A55 itself. Dried out in the Albion, Conwy.

Welsh XC Championships

Race: Welsh Regional and Masters Cross Country Championships, Brecon (9.5k)
Time/Position: 34.53 (49th from 133 [7th V45])
Having been selected to run for Wales for the first time since 2012 in November, and then being unable to make it, this was a welcome opportunity to at least represent my region. I've run for North Wales three times at the 10k road championships but, although I've been picked for cross country before, this was my first actual XC appearance in the regional champs. The course was a new one, round the fields surrounding the Penlan centre outside Brecon. The day was dank and drizzly, but the going was relatively kind underfoot. Better still, the course (three long and tortuous laps) suited me fairly well, with long flat sections to hammer out some kind of rhythm. A few twists and turns and a couple of short, sharp hills kept it interesting. Having struggled a bit to maintain the pace at Bangor last month, I ran conservatively but didn't feel too bad for a change (albeit still slow!). I picked up a few places on the second and third laps and finished in a reasonable position for my age, scoring in second place for the North Wales V45-55 team (although we just missed out on the team medal, by a very small margin).

Bangor XC

Race: Bangor XC (North Wales Cross Country League, race 3)
Time/Position: 35.50 (32nd from 152 [4th V45])
A long break from racing, over a month since the Flintshire 10k. Very little running in South Africa, and a heavy cold on returning, so my struggles in the two intervals sessions I've managed since recovering were hardly surprising. This was, therefore, merely a damage limitation exercise! A perfect winter day, with a hard frost and snow on the Carneddau. Felt I should have been up on those hills, and that feeling intensified as I began to struggle on the second lap. I last did the Bangor course 10 years ago, and it has changed since then: possibly a tad shorter, but more intense, with a sharp climb on all four laps. The course was muddy, slippery and demanding today despite the weather. I finished way down the field, which was a shame as I missed the second race in the league last month, but at least I didn't fall apart completely as I had half expected.

Clywedog trail run

A very pleasant outing on a beautiful crisp winter morning. Starting from Minera, we initially went too far across the river, adding a steep extra climb, but eventually joined a contouring path which eventually led down to Bersham via beautiful woodland. Astonishingly, and slightly shamefully, this was new territory for me. The Clywedog trail continues in this vein, broadly following the river through the edge of Wrexham, although urban scenery rarely intrudes. Peter and I continued through Erddig and nice parkland scenery to the end of the trail at King's Mill, then turned round for the long return leg along the riverbank. Just over half marathon distance in total.

Quartzkop

Peak: Quartzkop (1750m)
Area: Blyde River Canyon, Mpumalanga, South Africa
Just a short jog, glad to be able to expend some energy after several days driving round the wonderful Kruger National Park. This morning, I left Satara Camp in Kruger very early, driving into Limpopo then through the huge township of Bushbuckridge to Graskop. After breakfast, I headed up to the famed God's Window viewpoint. Here, the warm air of the Lowveld rises to meet the cooler air of the high plateau of Mpumulanga at the start of the Panorama Route and Blyde River Canyon. At this time of year, early summer, mist is the inevitable result. So, instead of the vast view over the Lowveld, a misty subtropical atmosphere prevailed. Still very atmospheric, with ever changing views over the top of the clouds and the plateau clear. I quickly realised that the path continued past God's Window to take in the subtropical cloud forest beyond: all moss and dripping vegetation, reminding me of my trip to Panama earlier this year. Above, typical Highveld scenery and vegetation as a plateau is reached. Great running here, with cloud to the right over the Lowveld and huge views left over the plateau towards the Blyde River Canyon. I kept on going to the highpoint, some interesting birds, then jogged back to resume my tour of the region. Later, I took in the Three Rondavels, Blyde Canyon, Bourke's Luck Potholes and many more sites in this wonderful area before staying in the hills above Graskop, near the famous Berlin Falls.

Flintshire 10k

Race: Flintshire 10k
Time/Position: 36.10 (4th from 566 [1st V45])
The route for this long-established race has changed numerous times over the years: this new version echoed the much older two lap run up the gently inclining Ruthin Road. I can remember going under 37 minutes for the first time on the old course a decade ago. A big field as we set off from the school, and a lot of twists and turns as the route avoids the middle of town. This slowed times down a bit, as did another tortuous section higher up after the hill - through gates and narrow entrances. The long and gradual descent is fast, though, and I gradually worked my way through some quick starters. I was third at the Flintshire 10k two years ago, on the very hilly version, and have been fifth in the past too. The gaps were quite big by the final mile.

Mold XC

Race: Mold XC (North Wales Cross Country League, race 1: 5.5m)
Time/Position: 31.47 (29th from 197 [3rd V45])
For a change, I was well up on my previous time for this newish course, which we ran for the first time last November. However, conditions today were hardly typical for cross country. It was mild and dry, the ground no worse than moist after morning rain. Last year, by contrast, it poured down throughout and the route was a quagmire. I didn't feel too bad on the route, although slowed on the third lap and struggled to hold the pace. But I moved gradually up the field after a deliberately slow start. I am hoping the field was quite strong, as I had expected to be a bit higher up!

Caernarfon border league

Race: Caernarfon 10k (Border League race 1)
Time/Position: 36.29 (16th from 318 [2nd V45])
The rule of 30 seconds strikes again. The third consecutive race in which I have been half a minute down on my most recent previous time for the course. Still, at least the decline is relatively gradual! Given the lack of recent road running, and only one intervals session in preparation, I was reasonably pleased with this - and I always enjoy the route, perhaps my 8th time round the course, both clockwise and anticlockwise. Today, we went the 'normal' way round, with a light easterly a slight help for the long, flat 5k alongside the Menai Straits. Always a glorious place to run, and the weather was delightful, as it often is on this race. Views of Yr Eifl and Mynydd Mawr as we turned inland to face the hilly second half of the course. I caught quick-starters Chris and David from Buckley and we ran together for a bit up the first hill. I moved up the field a bit over the second half and did my usual pace-holding (albeit slow!) routine, managing to hold off a small group immediately behind on the always enjoyable, very scenic final km past the castle.

Ceiriog Canter

Race: Ceiriog Canter fell race (11.5k/1307ft)
Area: Glyn Ceiriog (Vivod Mountain)
Time/Position: 53.45 (5th from 37)
Driving down the Ceiriog Valley, I always think I should spend more time there. This is the only fell race based in the valley, and another of those I have never got round to doing. The weather was rather unpleasant: steady drizzle, low cloud, rather chilly. But the race is runnable and excellent, almost closer to a trail race in places. It leaves Glyn Ceiriog to join a rutted and steep track. Our plod up this was enlivened by a wedged Sainsbury's delivery van, presumably a disastrous sat-nav error. It was quite a job to squeeze through the vegetation to get past the van. The track eventually emerges at a road, then takes a great path up the side of Nant y Dramwys. This gives excellent running, with good (albeit misty) views of the Berwyn. A group of six pulled away from the rest of the field during the climb. At a gate, the route turns left for the final climb up to the top of Vivod Mountain, all runnable. I began to fall behind Simon on the climb, and lost more ground initially on the descent, which takes a different route north of Y Foel to emerge at Finger Farm: at this point there was a great clearance in the mist and drizzle to reveal the verdant Ceiriog Valley. A road section meant I could catch Simon up, and a great contest ensued. I didn't get enough of a gap to cancel out his descending skills, though, and we were neck and neck on the final descent into the woods above Glyn Ceiriog. This was enlivened by a collapsing gate and numerous fallen trees. Eventually he pulled clear and finished up 15 seconds ahead back at the finish in Canolfan Ceiriog. We were around 90 seconds behind the winner.

Wirral Multi-Terrain Series, Arrowe Park

Race: Wirral MT Series, Arrowe Park
Time/Position: 26.49 (17th from 219 [2nd V45])
Half a minute down on last year's time, exactly the same as two weeks ago, so my slowdown is at least consistent! Last year, this race was something of a showdown as our V45 category went right down to the wire. This year, the pressure was off as I have already missed two races in the four race series, so I just used it as a speed session. It is a great course round Arrowe Park near Birkenhead: quick running through the woods, which get very dark on the second lap as dusk gathers, then some surprisingly tough gently rising slogs across a series of playing fields.

Chisinau run

After memorable day trips to Transdniester (Wednesday) and Gagauzia (Thursday) I had a bit of time for a run in the Moldovan capital this morning. I had already managed an unusual jog yesterday on my return from Gagauzia, running from the distant South Bus station in the furthest suburbs of Chisinau to my city centre hotel 6km away, stopping only for beer, sarmale and ciorba! As with many post-Soviet cities, Chisinau is not ideally suited to running with its potholes, crumbling pavements and big kerbstones. But, having said that, there's plenty of green space in the city and it is certainly easier than I found running in Tbilisi, Bishkek, Yerevan and the like. This morning I ran from my hotel at the eastern end of Pushkin Street up towards the parliament in perfect crisp, clear and sunny conditions. I made my way to the obvious large urban lake of Parcul Valea Morilor and did a lap of this with several other runners. I made my way back via a tortuous return through the city centre.

Mourne traverse

Peaks: Slieve Meelmore (704m), Slieve Bearnagh (727m), Slievenaglogh (586m), Slieve Corragh (641m), Slieve Commedagh (767m), Slieve Donard (850m), Slieve Beg (596m)
Area: Mourne Mountains, Northern Ireland
A traverse of the northern Mournes, a very pleasant outing but far removed from the reason we were here! In fact, we were here to do the Mourne Mountain Marathon elite course, long in the planning and obviously requiring some complex logistics. Peter and I had flown in to Belfast on Friday and arrived at the Meelmore lodge late on Friday night. This morning, a bus from Tollymore took us through delightful Ulster countryside to the start of the event at the Fofanny dam. All went well initially, although I always find it takes a while to 'get your eye in' on mountain marathons and we made a few small errors. After a bigger error on the north side of Slieve Meelmore, we slogged over the top of the hill and, when looking for the next checkpoint, Peter let out an agonised shout and keeled over: ankle badly sprained. That was essentially the end of that, a mere two hours into the event. We descended slowly to the col where Peter could hobble down to Meelmore. The day, rather frustratingly, was getting better and better: blue sky with some high cloud drifting in and out, warm but not too hot. The only option for me was a long run in the hills as a consolation prize. As I've never visited the Mournes before (apart from a trip to Newcastle in filthy weather with K and L some years ago) this was an appealing prospect. The northern traverse seemed an obvious continuation from Slieve Meelmore so I jogged up the steep side of Slieve Bearnagh, soon slowing to a striding walk. This is a fine hill, steep and shapely, and from this side even gives some mild scrambling if you look for it. Its summit is crowned with several large tors, reminiscent of Dartmoor granite. In fact, its summit is probably one of the harder summits to reach in the British Isles. I guessed the highpoint, took a route through a notch then along to two mild chimneys which led to the true summit and excellent views over the range: I had the time to really get my bearings, which I wouldn't have done had we been engaged in the intricacies of the mountain marathon! Good running led down to the famous Hare's Gap, a broad col, and the next lower peaks of Slievenaglogh and Slieve Corragh were also fairly gentle and runnable with good paths near the remarkable Mourne Wall, which continues along the entire ridge. I managed to find a water source at the next col and took a short break there. Slieve Commedagh is a steep haul but another fine peak with its summit set back a bit from the main ridge line and good sea and coastal views. I had it to myself, in stark contrast to Slieve Donard, and watched dozens of walkers slogging up to the summit as the mist covered it, then melted away again. I ran to the col, where numbers increased dramatically, perhaps 10 or 15 fold! I suppose Slieve Donard is so dominant, and so accessible from Newcastle, that it inevitably becomes a major day trip target. Its the highest point in Northern Ireland too, which probably adds to the appeal. It is a dull and crowded slog along the wall from the col to the summit, so I jogged where I could, reaching it in around 19 minutes. Mist drifted across the summit, with partial clearances giving views of the sea directly below. I ran down to the Bog of Donard at the top of the Bloody Bridge route, then joined the superb Brandy Pad - which takes a great direct route through the middle of the range, traversing below the peaks I had just done. I broke off to take in the minor summit of Slieve Beg for views of the Annalong Valley, then enjoyed the glorious gentle descent to Hare's Gap. From here, more excellent sunny running led down past some impressive granite crags to Meelmore lodge and our unplanned overnight camp. Very far from the weekend we had planned, and obviously a disappointment, but still an enjoyable traverse in great conditions and a fun weekend in Northern Ireland.

Wirral Multi-Terrain Series, Thurstaston

Race: Wirral MT Series, Race 2 (Thurstaston Beach)
Time/Position: 30.01 (14th from 236 [3rd V45])
Having thoroughly enjoyed this series last year, and having won my category, I was keen to give the races another go this year. But circumstances look like preventing me completing the series: indeed I was in Austria for the first race last week. As a result, I just treated this race as a speed session and wasn't too disappointed with a time well over half a minute down on last year. I struggled a bit with the pace, as I expected to, but just about held on for the second lap along the beach. The sand seemed softer than last year, with more boulders, but perhaps it just seemed that way! A great combination of cycle tracks and beach running, with oystercatchers and curlews a nice accompaniment.

Grainau trail run

We headed straight for Garmisch after the Wildspitze, stopping only for coffee and cake in Imst. After an excellent evening near our hotel in Partenkirchen, we had limited time this morning before heading back to Munich airport. There was a crag near Grainau, so we headed there for a few climbs, only to find a rather scruffy and unappealing wall of conglomerate. After an excellent few days in the Otztal, this just seemed wrong, so we decided on a trail run into the hills instead, mainly to enjoy the fantastic views of the Zugspitze across the valley (we had already pledged to make a return trip to take in the routes on these limestone peaks above Garmisch). We crossed the Loisach river, crystal clear and delightful, the water glinting in the low sunshine, and headed up the Kramerlaine valley. Vic descended to the riverside trail, while I continued upwards for a while, unsurprisingly rather tired after the last few days but enjoying the beauty of the Bavarian hills and the superbly civilised nature of the trails themselves. I made it to a highpoint above the valley and admired the view across to the Alpspitze and Zugspitze before taking a contouring path back down. After a wash and submersion in the icy river, we headed to Munich.

Wildspitze

Peak: Wildspitze (3772m/12362ft)
Route: Mitterkarjoch/Normal Route (PD)
Area: Otztal Alps, Austria
The highest peak in the Tyrol, and the second highest in Austria, the Wildspitze is also a very beautiful objective. It takes the form of a tent-like pyramid soaring above extensive snowfields. It was an obvious target for our short trip, and is unsurprisingly popular. It gives a straightforward but excellent route over the Mitterkarjoch: much more interesting and varied than we had anticipated, as it breaks down into four distinct parts. Breakfast was at 5.30am, late by Alpine standards, and we were away by 6.15. The route initially climbs into the Mitterkar, a glacial bowl of rubble and boulders which has presumably lost a great deal of its ice in recent years. A decent path winds through the moraines until the upper cwm is reached. The dim light gave way to Alpenglow on the Hinterer Brochkogel high above while behind a cloud inversion formed in the Vental. We passed one big guided party just before the cairns ran out as the upper cwm was reached. This is guarded by steep rock walls, with the summit of the Wildspitze high up on the right of the cwm, cloud streamers curling over the cornices. The actual Mitterkarjoch, which is the key to the whole route, is a tight col above a hidden rock couloir that rises steeply to the north. A dry glacier, just shallow ice, rapidly diminishing, leads up to the couloir, so we donned crampons and headed upwards, behind another guided party. The route up was pleasant, frozen solid after a cold night. Eventually, the glacier gives way to a small bergschrund and then a 150ft via ferrata section, which takes the couloir on its solid left-hand side up a series of cables. I would imagine that, until fairly recently, this couloir was a tracked out snow plod. Now the cables take you on to fairly solid ground up the left walls. Some surprisingly strenuous hauls needed, tricky work in crampons, and we were initially stuck behind the one small guided party that now remained in front of us. However, the steepness eases quite quickly and gives way to a long and very enjoyable diagonal traverse, eventually gaining the atmospheric Mitterkarjoch itself, where the environment and ambience changes suddenly and utterly from rock to snow as you enter the white world of the upper snowfields. The small col gives access to the summit glacier and is a tremendous spot with new views to the west over the Pitztal to Glochturm and a galaxy of other peaks. Cloud in the valleys just added to the atmosphere, particularly as wisps enveloped us from time to time. We geared up for the glacier crossing, which was a delight. Horizontal initially, it then rears up and crosses three or four crevasses. At this point, we were joined by climbers from the Pitztal side, but it never got overly crowded. The glacier crossing ends at a shallow col below the final rocky (at this time of year) summit pyramid. We removed ice gear and scrambled to the top (3 hours), very enjoyable despite the altitude. Verglassed rocks and my ancient Alpine boots (badly worn soles!) made it a little trickier than it might have been. Banks of cloud filled the Otztal and Pitztal with the high summits rising above, a spectacular view. Looking over the Stubai to the Schrankogel was particularly satisfying, and the nearby peaks on the Italian border were also notable, like the Similaun and Weisskugel. We deliberately timed the descent to perfection after a wonderful stay on the summit, avoiding the biggest guided parties on the scramble, then romping down the glacier to ensure we had the couloir to ourselves: this worked perfectly and we made rapid progress back to the hut. After enjoyable crampon work down the dry glacier, we took a long rest in the upper Mitterkar, enjoying the high Alpine ambience for one last time, then the long trudge through the moraines back to the Breslauer Hut (the first team down, just before midday) for Bergsteigerressen (wurst and pasta) and coffee. Thus fortified, we made our way down to Stablein in hot sunshine.

Oberried climbing

Crag: Oberried (Otztal, Tyrol, Austria)
Routes: Captain Hook (u6-/f5b:led), Mila Johara (u5-:sec), Night Rider (u5-:sec), Playboy (u5/f5a:sec), Baker Street (u6/f5c:led), Grisu (u7-/f6a+:sec), Loreley (f5b:led), Loschaktion (f5b:led), Wasserklang (f5b:led), Lausbubenverschneidung (u6+/f6a:sec)
A truly delightful crag, with well over 100 varied routes in a wonderful setting next to tranquil valley pastures with tremendous views up towards the Gamskogel and other peaks. It was virtually walking distance from our hotel, just across the valley floor, but had its own car park with toilet. A hot day seemed likely, so we started early as the morning sun hit the crag casting long shadows over the wet meadows, cow bells the only sound. Our chosen starting point was a side slab, with three overlapping slabs, all quite distinct, with the top one jutting out over a steeper wall. Captain Hook took the full height and gave a pleasant VS pitch, delicate climbing interspersed by the odd steeper move over each bulge. Vic led the similar but shorter line to the left, and two easier routes further right completed the fun. After this little warm up, it was already too hot to climb in the sun so we found a shady west-facing nook further left where I led Baker Street, an excellent HVS/f5c pitch up a steep wall of grey granite. It looked slightly smooth and polished from below, but wasn't really: it took an obvious line of weakness up the steep wall, a diagonal line of jugs leading towards the left-hand arete, then weaving right taking a further line of positive cracks up the steeper headwall. Great pitch, although bettered by Vic's lead of Grisu at f6a+. This took a direct line up that left-hand arete and gave superb climbing. A thin but positive flake crack right on the edge of the arete gave steep, dynamic moves up to a rest. Then an intermittent crack system with some interesting jamming led to the top via more fine climbing direct up the edge of the arete: excellent pitch. Further left, back in the sunshine, I led the classic corner line of Loreley - which felt like a traditional British VS. An obvious, strong line with some surprisingly awkward bridging and steep moves higher up. Loschaktion, immediately right, was a distinct contrast, taking a clean and delicate slab via some surprisingly technical moves on small holds and foot smears. Both quite stiff leads for the grade. Wasserklang was the worst pitch of the trip: something of a sandbag with me tiring after a bad night's sleep. A very steep start up an overhanging wall led to two thrutchy and steep grooves: awkward and disjointed, but close to a picturesque waterfall, as its name suggests. I flailed clumsily up this, with fading forearms, but was revived by the terrific corner of Lausbubenverschneidung (scallywag's corner!), a great f6a led by Vic, taking a very obvious clean corner direct up the high face at the left of the crag. Easy climbing low down leads to a superb textbook layback crack. Great moves up this to a high jug, before a pulsating finish taking the steepening finger crack in the corner. The crux comes right at the top: a layaway and very long reach for a flat finishing hold. With regret, we called it a day after 10 routes and headed up the valley for a late lunch before driving up to Vent at the end of the Otztal. From here, we got the chairlift to Stablein, then enjoyed a wonderful relaxed walk-in over the dramatic Rofenbach to the Breslauer Hut in great weather. Another superb hut, more traditional and crowded than the Amberger, with us in a small wooden room with great views. We refuelled with goulash, spatzle, gruner veltliner, blaufrankisch and other delights.

Schrankogel

Peak: Schrankogel (3497m/11473ft)
Route: East Ridge (PD)
Area: Stubai Alps, Austria
Rather high for an acclimatisation peak, but the Schrankogel is a superb mountain that had the added advantage of getting us into the heart of the Stubai Alps before our planned ascent of the higher Wildspitze in the Otztal Alps later in the week. The two ranges are quite distinct, although both can be accessed from the main Otztal valley. We spent the night in the splendid Amberger Hut, which was wonderful in the way that only Austrian huts can be, and enjoyed a relative lie-in before breakfast at 6am. Fresh snow had fallen above 3000m so we packed a short rope as precaution, although I wore approach shoes throughout as there is no glacier to cross on this route. We moved up the broad and magnificent Sulztal valley, almost Himalayan in feel at this point, with the Sulztalferner glacier sunlit above. The sun had yet to reach us, and we made rapid progress up the side valley of the Schwarzenberg to the east. A steep ascent led to a superb path on top of a moraine which gave a wonderful mile or so of walking, as the sun began to light up the Mutterberger Seespitze and Schwarzenbergspitze across the valley. In the dim morning light, with a fallen signpost, I failed to spot the line of the normal route going up the south-west ridge. This was no bad thing, however, as the moraine path was truly wonderful and took us up to the Schwarzenberg glacier high above. Some rubbly material at the top of the moraine, dusty, steep and arduous for a while. Above, however, we arrived at a plateau with the east ridge towering above: clearly a much better and more interesting option than the normal route, plastered with a good few inches of fresh snow. The weather was absolutely superb: deep blue cloudless sky and crystal clarity in all directions. We were both going at our own pace, so I set off for the main ridge, enjoying the more solid slabby rock. The snow made things trickier in places, but there were no real difficulties: it was rather like a giant Crib Goch. The ridge tapers constantly until it becomes more exposed as the summit cross comes into view. The final section is quite narrow with a few awkward steps but leads quickly and directly to the summit (2.50 from the hut). The amazing and unusual clarity of light made this one of the best views I have ever had in the Alps, or anywhere. I shared the summit with a chap from Bavaria who helped me with some of the unfamiliar peaks. Close at hand, the pyramidal Schrandele, Zuckerhutl and Wilde Leck impressed, but the Schrankogel is so prominent that it is the highest point for miles around, so the main feeling was one of distant views stretching right across the Alps, from the Todi and Silvretta to the Gross Venediger and the distant Dolomites. The Wildspitze dominated the view to the south-west: a beautiful summit. I spent a long time gazing at the view until Vic arrived, and we eventually tore ourself away for the descent. This was awkward, long and tiring, and I was a tad annoyed that I'd failed to realise the obvious traverse option. But the moraine was equally good in descent and the sun-drenched Sulztal a wonderful place to linger as we neared the hut. Sadly, we'd run out of money, so had to scamper back to the car in Gries before a surprisingly lengthy hunt for valley accommodation in Langenfeld. We got it sorted in the end, however, and a fine meal of wild mushroom soup, Tyrol lamb and rosti restored some of the lost calories.