Road cycling:HK-Holt-Malpas-Bangor-Holt-HK
Distance: 70k
Pushed the bike mileage a little more today, although it was a largely flat tour on pleasantly scenic and surprisingly quiet roads. Horribly cold throughout, as I started at 8am and the sun failed to peep through the clouds. It remained below freezing for the entire ride: cue agonising hot flushes in hands and feet when I returned (worse even than those typically experienced when ice climbing!). This may explain why the loop took longer than expected: 2.45. After a steeper ride (Hope Mountain x2) tomorrow, I'm hoping to at least try a short run next week.
Saturday, January 29, 2011
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Horseshoe Pass road ride
Road cycling: HK-Horseshoe Pass-HK
Distance: 36m
Took advantage of a weather window and a very early start to begin to push the bike mileage slightly, by way of preparation for my first Sportives in March. This went well, and was reasonably quiet (all the traffic in the opposite direction). I found the long gradual climb from HK via Treuddyn and Rhydtalog to be enjoyable and comfortable, and really enjoyed it. Slipped into the small ring just for the final push: 70 mins from home to the Ponderosa. Clear, crisp sunshine at the top of the Horseshoe. Descended the same way - it took almost as long as the climb for some reason: just under 2:15 for the ride.
Distance: 36m
Took advantage of a weather window and a very early start to begin to push the bike mileage slightly, by way of preparation for my first Sportives in March. This went well, and was reasonably quiet (all the traffic in the opposite direction). I found the long gradual climb from HK via Treuddyn and Rhydtalog to be enjoyable and comfortable, and really enjoyed it. Slipped into the small ring just for the final push: 70 mins from home to the Ponderosa. Clear, crisp sunshine at the top of the Horseshoe. Descended the same way - it took almost as long as the climb for some reason: just under 2:15 for the ride.
Sunday, January 23, 2011
Clwydian MTB ride
MTB Route: Over the Top (Famau-Gellifor-Penbarras) variant
Distance: 34k
Having come to accept that I'll be away from running for some time with the injury, which now looks like a torn meniscus, it's been an easy decision to focus on the cycling. So it was nice to be able to do this circuit with Dave B and Pete this morning. Pleasant climbing from the Famau car park round the hillside to the Cilcain path. Then a predictably muddy crossing of the ridge, some drizzle, before a very enjoyable descent with a misty cloud inversion in the Vale of Clwyd. Great riding down the bridleways into the mist at Gellifor, then along to Llanbedr and up Bwlch Penbarras. I remembered to record my time for this brutal climb this time: 16m from village to Bwlch. After this, I tagged one of the easy blue loops from the car park back through the forest trails to Penbarras.
Distance: 34k
Having come to accept that I'll be away from running for some time with the injury, which now looks like a torn meniscus, it's been an easy decision to focus on the cycling. So it was nice to be able to do this circuit with Dave B and Pete this morning. Pleasant climbing from the Famau car park round the hillside to the Cilcain path. Then a predictably muddy crossing of the ridge, some drizzle, before a very enjoyable descent with a misty cloud inversion in the Vale of Clwyd. Great riding down the bridleways into the mist at Gellifor, then along to Llanbedr and up Bwlch Penbarras. I remembered to record my time for this brutal climb this time: 16m from village to Bwlch. After this, I tagged one of the easy blue loops from the car park back through the forest trails to Penbarras.
Sunday, January 09, 2011
Cwm Glas
Peak/Crag: Carnedd Ugain (Cwm Glas)
Routes: Sinister Gully (wIII:2,2,4,2,2:led p.1,2,4), Gyrn Las Ridge (wI/II:sol)
Another very enjoyable mountaineering outing, rather similar to last Monday but arguably even more varied and pseudo-Alpine in tone. Our plans were initially more ambitious, involving a route out of Cwm Glas followed by more routes on the Trinity Face. But the weather was again far worse than forecast, and my knee injury remains a real concern (tried a brief run on Friday, very painful). As a result of this surplus energy, we stormed the steep walk-in past Gyrn Las in less than an hour: moving, as so often, into a different world as we gained Cwm Glas - an Arctic bowl of snow and ice. We began up Parsley Fern, intending to do Left-Hand, but Sinister Gully looked like it had good ice (although the main pitch was in the clag) so we moved round and ploughed up the enjoyable wide slabby ice groove at the start. Superb neve led to a flake, so we tied on and I led up the next easy pitch - a series of icy steps and flakes to more good snow-ice. After another belay, I led up frozen turf to the base of the main pitch which Vic led. This was steep water ice for 10m at most, then the angle eases, although sugary snow covered all the ice on this section making for a slightly insecure finish. The route then eases but remains great fun. Two long pitches up a shallow continuation gully, superb snow-ice conditions, lead to more open slopes which lead tiringly to a little 'breche' on the Crib Goch-Crib y Ddisgyl ridge. Lovely long route, easy but interesting: very odd that there was no evidence of any recent ascents as it is normally pretty popular and was in fine nick today. A fully rimed up ridge gave interesting scrambling to the rather hostile summit of Carnedd Ugain, before a bearing north around the lip of the cwm to gain the Gyrn Las ridge in very poor viz. This didn't have thick cover, but did have a blend of old snow and verglas on the tricky chimney sections which gave good sport: an added bonus and a satisfying end to the day. Back in time for a late lunch: my knee thanking me for the short day.
Routes: Sinister Gully (wIII:2,2,4,2,2:led p.1,2,4), Gyrn Las Ridge (wI/II:sol)
Another very enjoyable mountaineering outing, rather similar to last Monday but arguably even more varied and pseudo-Alpine in tone. Our plans were initially more ambitious, involving a route out of Cwm Glas followed by more routes on the Trinity Face. But the weather was again far worse than forecast, and my knee injury remains a real concern (tried a brief run on Friday, very painful). As a result of this surplus energy, we stormed the steep walk-in past Gyrn Las in less than an hour: moving, as so often, into a different world as we gained Cwm Glas - an Arctic bowl of snow and ice. We began up Parsley Fern, intending to do Left-Hand, but Sinister Gully looked like it had good ice (although the main pitch was in the clag) so we moved round and ploughed up the enjoyable wide slabby ice groove at the start. Superb neve led to a flake, so we tied on and I led up the next easy pitch - a series of icy steps and flakes to more good snow-ice. After another belay, I led up frozen turf to the base of the main pitch which Vic led. This was steep water ice for 10m at most, then the angle eases, although sugary snow covered all the ice on this section making for a slightly insecure finish. The route then eases but remains great fun. Two long pitches up a shallow continuation gully, superb snow-ice conditions, lead to more open slopes which lead tiringly to a little 'breche' on the Crib Goch-Crib y Ddisgyl ridge. Lovely long route, easy but interesting: very odd that there was no evidence of any recent ascents as it is normally pretty popular and was in fine nick today. A fully rimed up ridge gave interesting scrambling to the rather hostile summit of Carnedd Ugain, before a bearing north around the lip of the cwm to gain the Gyrn Las ridge in very poor viz. This didn't have thick cover, but did have a blend of old snow and verglas on the tricky chimney sections which gave good sport: an added bonus and a satisfying end to the day. Back in time for a late lunch: my knee thanking me for the short day.
Saturday, January 08, 2011
Road ride
Road cycling: HK-Rhydtalog-Bwlchwyn-HK loop
Distance: 25m
After abandoning yet another attempted run last night, I was getting desperate so got the road bike out for its first proper outing. The road bike was always intended to supplement the mountain bike as security against running injury, although I never expected to get such a serious setback. Almost two weeks without running is rather strange after several years without more than two consecutive days off! This ride was shorter than intended: just over 20 miles, less than 90 mins, from HK to Rhydtalog and back via Bwlchgwyn. But it was a lot of fun, and bodes well for what may become a vital running replacement. I've entered my first cycle sportive, indeed my first ever road biking event - 100k around Cheshire in March - to at least give me a target if the cycling becomes a permanent fixture.
Distance: 25m
After abandoning yet another attempted run last night, I was getting desperate so got the road bike out for its first proper outing. The road bike was always intended to supplement the mountain bike as security against running injury, although I never expected to get such a serious setback. Almost two weeks without running is rather strange after several years without more than two consecutive days off! This ride was shorter than intended: just over 20 miles, less than 90 mins, from HK to Rhydtalog and back via Bwlchgwyn. But it was a lot of fun, and bodes well for what may become a vital running replacement. I've entered my first cycle sportive, indeed my first ever road biking event - 100k around Cheshire in March - to at least give me a target if the cycling becomes a permanent fixture.
Thursday, January 06, 2011
Nant Ffrancon snow gullies
Peak/Crag: Foel Goch (East Face)
Routes: Red Gully (wI/II:sol)
Peak/Crag: Y Garn (Cwm Cywion)
Routes: No.3 Gully (wII:sol)
Red Gully is one of the most obvious winter lines in Ogwen, particularly from the A5, and it was clear that it was complete as I drove up the valley. The steep pull into Cwm Coch is always a good test of fitness, and I arrived at the base of the gully in 30 minutes. The route itself is easy but excellent, ideal for a solo day: a very deep, twisting and atmospheric gully, one of the best of its kind locally. No steps, no evidence of ascents, despite ideal neve conditions which are fairly rare on this low crag. It is very gentle initially as it climbs between high retaining walls before steepening and twisting left, up a couple of steps of frozen turf, to a splendid steep finish on superb neve. As I pulled onto the plateau, the weather (already far worse than forecast) deteriorated, wind and snow for the unavoidable trudge to the top of Foel Goch (less than an hour from the car - indeed, almost a direct line from car to summit via this route). I then dropped down into Cwm Cywion to the south, and traversed across to Gully No.2 (False Banana Gully). I remember getting blown over here in weirdly strong funnelled winds 20 years ago. It's just a gentle wide gully until the last 80m or so. I took the steeper right hand exit (No.3 gully) up mild mixed ground, some turfy steps amidst the snow slopes, to another steep finish on more superb neve. Notable cornice by Welsh standards. Terrible weather for the trudge up Y Garn, the summit no place for lunch, so I descended the NE ridge to get out of the wind. Heavy driving snow so, after lunch high on the ridge, I plunged down one of the shallow gullies overlooking Cywion and gained the grassy base of the cwm in steady rain. Minimal stress to the knee injury, but still no running (11 days off and counting!).
Routes: Red Gully (wI/II:sol)
Peak/Crag: Y Garn (Cwm Cywion)
Routes: No.3 Gully (wII:sol)
Red Gully is one of the most obvious winter lines in Ogwen, particularly from the A5, and it was clear that it was complete as I drove up the valley. The steep pull into Cwm Coch is always a good test of fitness, and I arrived at the base of the gully in 30 minutes. The route itself is easy but excellent, ideal for a solo day: a very deep, twisting and atmospheric gully, one of the best of its kind locally. No steps, no evidence of ascents, despite ideal neve conditions which are fairly rare on this low crag. It is very gentle initially as it climbs between high retaining walls before steepening and twisting left, up a couple of steps of frozen turf, to a splendid steep finish on superb neve. As I pulled onto the plateau, the weather (already far worse than forecast) deteriorated, wind and snow for the unavoidable trudge to the top of Foel Goch (less than an hour from the car - indeed, almost a direct line from car to summit via this route). I then dropped down into Cwm Cywion to the south, and traversed across to Gully No.2 (False Banana Gully). I remember getting blown over here in weirdly strong funnelled winds 20 years ago. It's just a gentle wide gully until the last 80m or so. I took the steeper right hand exit (No.3 gully) up mild mixed ground, some turfy steps amidst the snow slopes, to another steep finish on more superb neve. Notable cornice by Welsh standards. Terrible weather for the trudge up Y Garn, the summit no place for lunch, so I descended the NE ridge to get out of the wind. Heavy driving snow so, after lunch high on the ridge, I plunged down one of the shallow gullies overlooking Cywion and gained the grassy base of the cwm in steady rain. Minimal stress to the knee injury, but still no running (11 days off and counting!).
Monday, January 03, 2011
Black Ladders
Crag: Ysgolion Duon/Black Ladders
Routes: Eastern Gully (wIII 3+,3,1,1,2,2+:led p.2,4,6)
Peaks: Carnedd Llewellyn, Yr Elen
Area: Carneddau
A complete contrast with the last big day out on Christmas Eve. If that was the ice-cragging trip, this was the archetypal full winter mountain day, almost exactly one year since our ascent of Central Gully on the same crag. That day was memorable because of the appalling conditions, whereas today was a delightfully benign contrast. Warm weather after Christmas has stripped most of the snow, but a recent re-freeze has bought easy high routes dependent on consolidated snow into fine condition. It was obvious even from the A55 that Eastern Gully was the most complete line on the crag. Given my injury, ski-poles were vital for the long walk-in, which was virtually snow-free. Surprisingly, we found that the initial icefall was quite well formed, so Vic led it. The ice was new, rather brittle and thin, and it gave a tricky pitch for the lowly grade - in many ways harder than Idwal's South Gully in December. Good snow-ice led to a ramp below a rock wall, then thin front-pointing on dinner-plating ice led to easier shelves and frozen turf. I then led up an almost bare rock wall, awkward moves up an iced crack to frozen turf, then up some of Eastern arete before we traversed into the main gully bed and romped up superb easy-angled neve for two long pitches. Great mountain atmosphere on this most rewarding of Welsh crags, and excellent gully scenery. The route was in great condition, its leanness only made it more interesting. Vic led over a tight constriction to more good neve and a mini cave belay. This gave me a great little pitch up the steeper right-hand exit, on fantastic frozen turf to steeper snow - more perfect neve led to the final snow fan and exit. Just a really enjoyable straitforward mountaineering route - perfect, given my injury. We lunched on the ridge with the sun trying to peep through a high layer of cloud. All the lines on the Ladders perfectly exposed by the thin conditions. A superb walk followed, along the ridge to Llywellyn on a potentially hazardous mixture of new snow and iron-hard neve. A quick dram of schnapps, and along the ridge to Yr Elen - one of my favourite corners of Snowdonia. Superb views to Cwm Caseg (see Feb 2010) and the Ladders. I was dreading the descent, given my injury, but it went OK with the poles, following the spur all the way to the end before a wet river crossing gained the path to Bethesda. A great way to end the holiday, and start the year, but the injury is still an issue.
Routes: Eastern Gully (wIII 3+,3,1,1,2,2+:led p.2,4,6)
Peaks: Carnedd Llewellyn, Yr Elen
Area: Carneddau
A complete contrast with the last big day out on Christmas Eve. If that was the ice-cragging trip, this was the archetypal full winter mountain day, almost exactly one year since our ascent of Central Gully on the same crag. That day was memorable because of the appalling conditions, whereas today was a delightfully benign contrast. Warm weather after Christmas has stripped most of the snow, but a recent re-freeze has bought easy high routes dependent on consolidated snow into fine condition. It was obvious even from the A55 that Eastern Gully was the most complete line on the crag. Given my injury, ski-poles were vital for the long walk-in, which was virtually snow-free. Surprisingly, we found that the initial icefall was quite well formed, so Vic led it. The ice was new, rather brittle and thin, and it gave a tricky pitch for the lowly grade - in many ways harder than Idwal's South Gully in December. Good snow-ice led to a ramp below a rock wall, then thin front-pointing on dinner-plating ice led to easier shelves and frozen turf. I then led up an almost bare rock wall, awkward moves up an iced crack to frozen turf, then up some of Eastern arete before we traversed into the main gully bed and romped up superb easy-angled neve for two long pitches. Great mountain atmosphere on this most rewarding of Welsh crags, and excellent gully scenery. The route was in great condition, its leanness only made it more interesting. Vic led over a tight constriction to more good neve and a mini cave belay. This gave me a great little pitch up the steeper right-hand exit, on fantastic frozen turf to steeper snow - more perfect neve led to the final snow fan and exit. Just a really enjoyable straitforward mountaineering route - perfect, given my injury. We lunched on the ridge with the sun trying to peep through a high layer of cloud. All the lines on the Ladders perfectly exposed by the thin conditions. A superb walk followed, along the ridge to Llywellyn on a potentially hazardous mixture of new snow and iron-hard neve. A quick dram of schnapps, and along the ridge to Yr Elen - one of my favourite corners of Snowdonia. Superb views to Cwm Caseg (see Feb 2010) and the Ladders. I was dreading the descent, given my injury, but it went OK with the poles, following the spur all the way to the end before a wet river crossing gained the path to Bethesda. A great way to end the holiday, and start the year, but the injury is still an issue.
Friday, December 31, 2010
'Over the Top' Clwydian ride
MTB Route: Over the Top (Famau-Penbarras)
Distance: 28k
Still struggling with the knee injury: no running since Monday, my longest lay-off for years. Ironically, this has struck just when I have time on my hands and was hoping to push the mileage. Still, it gave a nice opportunity to get the mountain bike out. Rich and I left the middle Famau car park and contoured the forest roads round to the steep grass climb above Cilcain. Rich was suffering, so headed for home at this point. I ploughed on for a predictably muddy crossing of the ridge, before enjoying the superb long descent to Llangynhafal. From here, I really floored it to Llanbedr, lots of energy to burn after the lay-off! Then comes the notorious climb of Bwlch Penbarras. This reaches 25% in places (double the max gradient of any Tour climb, although obviously considerably shorter!). I felt good, and suspect I did it quicker than in previous attempts, but forgot to record the climb time (1:45 for the full loop). Tried a brief jog from the Collie later after a NYE pint in the Druid, but felt the knee flare up almost immediately.
Distance: 28k
Still struggling with the knee injury: no running since Monday, my longest lay-off for years. Ironically, this has struck just when I have time on my hands and was hoping to push the mileage. Still, it gave a nice opportunity to get the mountain bike out. Rich and I left the middle Famau car park and contoured the forest roads round to the steep grass climb above Cilcain. Rich was suffering, so headed for home at this point. I ploughed on for a predictably muddy crossing of the ridge, before enjoying the superb long descent to Llangynhafal. From here, I really floored it to Llanbedr, lots of energy to burn after the lay-off! Then comes the notorious climb of Bwlch Penbarras. This reaches 25% in places (double the max gradient of any Tour climb, although obviously considerably shorter!). I felt good, and suspect I did it quicker than in previous attempts, but forgot to record the climb time (1:45 for the full loop). Tried a brief jog from the Collie later after a NYE pint in the Druid, but felt the knee flare up almost immediately.
Wednesday, December 29, 2010
Carneddau walk
Peaks: Foel Dduarth, Foel Ganol, Yr Orsedd, Pen Bryn Du, Drum
An old injury reared its ugly head during a slushy run up Waun y Llyn from HK with Jez on Monday. It looks like the IT band problems, last suffered almost three years ago, have come back - perhaps as a result of recent road running on hard ice/snow with uncushioned trail shoes. After a complete rest yesterday, I thought this gentle walk with Rich and Mike would be a good way to test it. I felt fine on the steep pull up Foel Dduarth from Aber, interested in how rapid the thaw has been since our Christmas Eve outing (given that the Aber road was impassable even before the bulk of the snow last Tuesday). It was very mild for the lovely ridge over Yr Orsedd to the Drum track, where it clouded over with some drizzle. A few drifts remained. After tea on Drum, we descended to Llyn Anafon in a partial cloud inversion, with my knee starting to play up. The descent down Cwm Anafon to Aber was really quite painful, enlivened only by some avalanche debris below the lake, and I finished the day rather worried about the injury.
An old injury reared its ugly head during a slushy run up Waun y Llyn from HK with Jez on Monday. It looks like the IT band problems, last suffered almost three years ago, have come back - perhaps as a result of recent road running on hard ice/snow with uncushioned trail shoes. After a complete rest yesterday, I thought this gentle walk with Rich and Mike would be a good way to test it. I felt fine on the steep pull up Foel Dduarth from Aber, interested in how rapid the thaw has been since our Christmas Eve outing (given that the Aber road was impassable even before the bulk of the snow last Tuesday). It was very mild for the lovely ridge over Yr Orsedd to the Drum track, where it clouded over with some drizzle. A few drifts remained. After tea on Drum, we descended to Llyn Anafon in a partial cloud inversion, with my knee starting to play up. The descent down Cwm Anafon to Aber was really quite painful, enlivened only by some avalanche debris below the lake, and I finished the day rather worried about the injury.
Sunday, December 26, 2010
Round the Walls race
Race: Round the Walls (4m)
Time/Position: 22:51 (19th from 348)
Just about squeezed the 40th race of my 40th year in with this quick dash around the racecourse. All the weather-related cancellations had put the self-imposed and utterly meaningless target in jeopardy over recent weeks, after I reached 39 in November. Even today the full race was - predictably enough - shortened, leaving only the shrivelled husk, impersonating horses on a few laps of the Roodee. Quite hard going in the soft snow and cold air, and tricky to keep the pace up given lack of recent speedwork. The 40 races this year were pleasingly varied: from road 5k to mountain marathons, with 11 category wins and a few near misses!
Time/Position: 22:51 (19th from 348)
Just about squeezed the 40th race of my 40th year in with this quick dash around the racecourse. All the weather-related cancellations had put the self-imposed and utterly meaningless target in jeopardy over recent weeks, after I reached 39 in November. Even today the full race was - predictably enough - shortened, leaving only the shrivelled husk, impersonating horses on a few laps of the Roodee. Quite hard going in the soft snow and cold air, and tricky to keep the pace up given lack of recent speedwork. The 40 races this year were pleasingly varied: from road 5k to mountain marathons, with 11 category wins and a few near misses!
Friday, December 24, 2010
More Idwal ice
Crag: Cwm Idwal
Routes: The Screen (wIII/IV 3,4:sec), Devil's Pasture (WIII 3,3:led p.2), South Gully (wIV 3,4,2:led p.1,3)
Finally got the big day out here, properly exploiting the conditions, after all the recent false starts. We left Ogwen at 8am with the moon sinking behind Y Garn, in superb conditions. Pink and blue sky, not too cold, with around a metre of snow covering the entire valley including both lakes. The first team up went for South Gully, so we ploughed up to the Screen. This is one of the most popular routes here, a very appealing and attractive line of water ice, so it was great to find it free. I led up to the first ledge, but found the ice a little brittle, so Vic led the steeper water ice to the bigger slabby ledge. Good moves left up this gain a thin finishing groove. A nice climb, but rather short. Moving across to the upper crag of Clogwyn y Geifr, left of Twll Du, had an appealing logic and continued upward progress - but it was clear that the ice smear of Devil's Pasture hadn't had any recent ascents. I broke trail across to it in waist deep snow, and Vic led the first pitch. In theory, this was technically the easiest pitch of the day. In practise it was the hardest, up brittle ice, not stepped out, but absorbing and enjoyable. It stays easy angled until a final few moves through bulging ice gain snow slopes up to the chimney. I led through the sharply contrasting chimney pitch. Enjoyably secure mixed climbing, with some bridging, leads to a move right over an ice bulge to gain easier iced rock then the tiring powder of the upper gully. A quick descent on good snow led to the traverse line down to South Gully. It was 2pm by now, so we had to forego lunch to bag this classic line in time. I led the first pitch up straitforward and well travelled ice, albeit slightly wet. This gave enjoyable grade III climbing and leads to easy snow in the main bed of the gully. The main ice pitch is magnificent, slightly easier today as it had been hacked out over recent days - maybe closer to III than IV - but still steep and sustained. A tapering pillar of ice leads up to a big chandelier, then excellent moves negotiate this to the left to gain a ledge as the rocky side wall converges. Atmospheric and superb stuff, dispatched efficiently by Vic. A final steep bulge of water ice gains the belay. I led an easy final pitch over a short bulge to easy snow slopes as the sun set. A satisfying end to a memorably full day. I had to be home early, so the walk down turned into a sprint: we didn't even need to switch on the headtorches.
Routes: The Screen (wIII/IV 3,4:sec), Devil's Pasture (WIII 3,3:led p.2), South Gully (wIV 3,4,2:led p.1,3)
Finally got the big day out here, properly exploiting the conditions, after all the recent false starts. We left Ogwen at 8am with the moon sinking behind Y Garn, in superb conditions. Pink and blue sky, not too cold, with around a metre of snow covering the entire valley including both lakes. The first team up went for South Gully, so we ploughed up to the Screen. This is one of the most popular routes here, a very appealing and attractive line of water ice, so it was great to find it free. I led up to the first ledge, but found the ice a little brittle, so Vic led the steeper water ice to the bigger slabby ledge. Good moves left up this gain a thin finishing groove. A nice climb, but rather short. Moving across to the upper crag of Clogwyn y Geifr, left of Twll Du, had an appealing logic and continued upward progress - but it was clear that the ice smear of Devil's Pasture hadn't had any recent ascents. I broke trail across to it in waist deep snow, and Vic led the first pitch. In theory, this was technically the easiest pitch of the day. In practise it was the hardest, up brittle ice, not stepped out, but absorbing and enjoyable. It stays easy angled until a final few moves through bulging ice gain snow slopes up to the chimney. I led through the sharply contrasting chimney pitch. Enjoyably secure mixed climbing, with some bridging, leads to a move right over an ice bulge to gain easier iced rock then the tiring powder of the upper gully. A quick descent on good snow led to the traverse line down to South Gully. It was 2pm by now, so we had to forego lunch to bag this classic line in time. I led the first pitch up straitforward and well travelled ice, albeit slightly wet. This gave enjoyable grade III climbing and leads to easy snow in the main bed of the gully. The main ice pitch is magnificent, slightly easier today as it had been hacked out over recent days - maybe closer to III than IV - but still steep and sustained. A tapering pillar of ice leads up to a big chandelier, then excellent moves negotiate this to the left to gain a ledge as the rocky side wall converges. Atmospheric and superb stuff, dispatched efficiently by Vic. A final steep bulge of water ice gains the belay. I led an easy final pitch over a short bulge to easy snow slopes as the sun set. A satisfying end to a memorably full day. I had to be home early, so the walk down turned into a sprint: we didn't even need to switch on the headtorches.
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
Northern Carneddau
Peaks/Crag: Moel Wnion/Northern Carneddau
Routes: Aber Gully (wI/II:sol), Bera Gully (wI:sol)
After a heavy dump of snow over the weekend, stuck in London enjoying novel wintry runs through Leyton and Walthamstow, an unexpected further front over Snowdonia meant the weather gods were against me again. Yesterday Neil and I had enjoyed an early morning run up Moel Famau in very cold (-12c) but sunny conditions. By contrast this morning, it was obvious driving west that the snow would continue for most of the day. I didn't fancy getting stuck, so decided to take advantage of the unusual conditions (snow on the beach in Conwy) to sample the easy, low-altitude and 'maritime' gullies around the Northern Carneddau. A mountaineering day seemed appropriate. Parked literally under the A55, and enjoyed the walk towards the falls in awkward ice and thick snow. This became very thick, inevitably unconsolidated, as I traversed above the falls towards the Cwm Afon Goch. Aber Gully leaves this traverse path and twists up the hillside towards Llwytmor. I've rarely seen snow in it before, and although it was unconsolidated, it did at least take a boot. True neve conditions are virtually impossible here anyway, I would have thought. An initial 100m of steepish snow led to a squeeze past an unfortunately positioned tree, before more snow led to a tricky chockstone. This took a bit of thought, but I eventually negotiated it on the right - slippery and unconsolidated - to gain a snow fan. The gully twists right, past more awkward trees, to gain the hillside below Llwytmor. Upward progress was tricky in the drifts, so I descended to the Afon Goch and descended the lower gully to the partially frozen main falls. After lunch, I looked at Rhaedr Bach, not frozen, then spied an obvious shallow gully line through the crags that fringe the northern spur of Bera Mawr. Easy slopes gain the line, all a bit too easy-angled, before an obvious left-hand finish through a well defined wide gully. Esoteric, and quite pleasant - Bera Gully seems an obvious descriptor. Wind and drifts then made life very difficult for the crossing of the plateau below Drosgl. The drifts were chest-deep in places, making for exhausting progress over the summit of Moel Wnion in worsening conditions. Heavy snow fell as I descended the fell race route to the village. A six mile run along a snowy coastal path from Colwyn Bay was a nice finale.
Routes: Aber Gully (wI/II:sol), Bera Gully (wI:sol)
After a heavy dump of snow over the weekend, stuck in London enjoying novel wintry runs through Leyton and Walthamstow, an unexpected further front over Snowdonia meant the weather gods were against me again. Yesterday Neil and I had enjoyed an early morning run up Moel Famau in very cold (-12c) but sunny conditions. By contrast this morning, it was obvious driving west that the snow would continue for most of the day. I didn't fancy getting stuck, so decided to take advantage of the unusual conditions (snow on the beach in Conwy) to sample the easy, low-altitude and 'maritime' gullies around the Northern Carneddau. A mountaineering day seemed appropriate. Parked literally under the A55, and enjoyed the walk towards the falls in awkward ice and thick snow. This became very thick, inevitably unconsolidated, as I traversed above the falls towards the Cwm Afon Goch. Aber Gully leaves this traverse path and twists up the hillside towards Llwytmor. I've rarely seen snow in it before, and although it was unconsolidated, it did at least take a boot. True neve conditions are virtually impossible here anyway, I would have thought. An initial 100m of steepish snow led to a squeeze past an unfortunately positioned tree, before more snow led to a tricky chockstone. This took a bit of thought, but I eventually negotiated it on the right - slippery and unconsolidated - to gain a snow fan. The gully twists right, past more awkward trees, to gain the hillside below Llwytmor. Upward progress was tricky in the drifts, so I descended to the Afon Goch and descended the lower gully to the partially frozen main falls. After lunch, I looked at Rhaedr Bach, not frozen, then spied an obvious shallow gully line through the crags that fringe the northern spur of Bera Mawr. Easy slopes gain the line, all a bit too easy-angled, before an obvious left-hand finish through a well defined wide gully. Esoteric, and quite pleasant - Bera Gully seems an obvious descriptor. Wind and drifts then made life very difficult for the crossing of the plateau below Drosgl. The drifts were chest-deep in places, making for exhausting progress over the summit of Moel Wnion in worsening conditions. Heavy snow fell as I descended the fell race route to the village. A six mile run along a snowy coastal path from Colwyn Bay was a nice finale.
Saturday, December 11, 2010
Anglesey run
A weekend on Anglesey, so I took the opportunity to enjoy the varied 10 mile loop from Beaumaris to Llanddona and the glorious road, poised above the sea, back to Llangoed. This gives tremendous mountain views, although it was obvious that the thaw was continuing in mild, cloudy conditions today.
Friday, December 10, 2010
Chicane Gully
Crag: Cwm Idwal
Route: Chicane Gully (wIII 4,3,3/4:led p.3)
Tropical temperatures as I left the house at 6.30. Infuriating timing after a week of near-perfect conditions for the ice routes in Idwal, but this was the only tiny window available. It got even warmer as I drove to Ogwen, and it was clear that a very aggressive thaw was taking place. Still, Vic, Mick and I walked in anyway: torrents of slush flowing down Idwal Staircase, cloud right down, a thoroughly depressing experience. There was still a great deal of ice around, though, and we continued to the base of the Screen. Sadly, this had a waterfall pouring down it, so we contoured round to South Gully - another waterfall. However, the icefalls to the right seemed drier and the opening pitch of Chicane Gully looked a lot better. This begins up a little bay, below a large icicle, and takes an appealing pillar of water ice. I followed Vic up this excellent 45m pitch: steepish moist ice, probably closer to IV than III, giving good climbing up to an unexpected mixed section as the left wall closes in. Got rather wet on this 15m open chimney, but it gave absorbing mixed climbing. The second pitch is a complete contrast, up the shallower continuation of the gully, and was far easier today, despite the conditions and guidebook description. A mixture of melting snow, semi-frozen turf, heather and rock (but all far more fun than appearances suggested, with surprisingly solid placements and more mixed climbing). Vic belayed half-way up, giving me an interesting final pitch which went up easy snow to a short crux involving an awkward pull up on insecure soft powder and high step to overcome an ice umbrella. Everything else was pouring with water, but at least we grabbed a little morsel before it all disappears.
Route: Chicane Gully (wIII 4,3,3/4:led p.3)
Tropical temperatures as I left the house at 6.30. Infuriating timing after a week of near-perfect conditions for the ice routes in Idwal, but this was the only tiny window available. It got even warmer as I drove to Ogwen, and it was clear that a very aggressive thaw was taking place. Still, Vic, Mick and I walked in anyway: torrents of slush flowing down Idwal Staircase, cloud right down, a thoroughly depressing experience. There was still a great deal of ice around, though, and we continued to the base of the Screen. Sadly, this had a waterfall pouring down it, so we contoured round to South Gully - another waterfall. However, the icefalls to the right seemed drier and the opening pitch of Chicane Gully looked a lot better. This begins up a little bay, below a large icicle, and takes an appealing pillar of water ice. I followed Vic up this excellent 45m pitch: steepish moist ice, probably closer to IV than III, giving good climbing up to an unexpected mixed section as the left wall closes in. Got rather wet on this 15m open chimney, but it gave absorbing mixed climbing. The second pitch is a complete contrast, up the shallower continuation of the gully, and was far easier today, despite the conditions and guidebook description. A mixture of melting snow, semi-frozen turf, heather and rock (but all far more fun than appearances suggested, with surprisingly solid placements and more mixed climbing). Vic belayed half-way up, giving me an interesting final pitch which went up easy snow to a short crux involving an awkward pull up on insecure soft powder and high step to overcome an ice umbrella. Everything else was pouring with water, but at least we grabbed a little morsel before it all disappears.
Thursday, December 09, 2010
Clwydian loop
Unable to exploit the climbing conditions in Snowdonia, so contented myself with this early morning run from Llanferres. The beautiful cold and sunny weather we've had all week changed to driving sleet as I left the car, improving my mood no end. Got up an icy Foel Fenlli in 20 mins, then enjoyed excellent snowy running down to Clwyd Gate, then up the OD path (some drifts) to the shoulder of Moel Gyw and down to Llanarmon in another sleet shower. From here, I did an extended road 'interval' back to Llanferres. Felt slightly tired towards the end, perhaps a result of a similar eight-mile loop of Waun y Llyn and Hope Mountain last night.
Sunday, December 05, 2010
Clwydian run
With the ultra-cautious cancellation of the Helena Tipping 10k there was an opportunity to enjoy a longer Sunday run in the hills. A complete thaw at lower levels (making the cancellation questionable) but a lot of snow higher up giving great running. Jez and I left Cadole for the long run through the woods to the Cilcain track, then up increasingly thick snow to the ridge. Great running through sunbursts and shifting mist to the Arctic summit and rimed-up tower, before descending the MTB track back down to the Alyn. A nice family walk to Twll Mawr through the quarries above Llanberis later on, as the cloud cleared the summit of Yr Wyddfa.
Friday, December 03, 2010
Idwal ice
Crag: Cwm Idwal
Routes: Idwal Stream (wII/III 3,3,2:led p.2)
An unusually early cold snap, which as ever brings mixed emotions: a strong desire to get out there coupled with an aversion to the stress that inevitably causes. This time of year is so busy there's no real chance of exploiting these wonderful conditions, however, so one just has to be sanguine! We had a few meagre hours at our disposal today, with limited gear, and used the time to check the conditions on this gentle winter trade route (which I also climbed in January). Lots of teams had the same idea, and the route gave the usual relaxed entertainment. Lots of ice, great conditions for the time of year although not quite as fat as in January. Vic led the first little rise, giving me the enjoyable second pitch up pure water ice (wet near the top). We then indulged in a little variation, up steeper ice left of the normal route, to gain the easy top section. After lunch on the plateau, surprised by how well the weather was holding up (wind but no snow, and great views over the Carneddau) we descended past Twll Du, a frustrating experience as it was clear many routes were in. An early finish meant I could get to the Collie via St Asaph to enjoy an excellent 6 mile headtorch run around Bwlch Penbarras and the side of Moel Famau on forest tracks with a deep covering of soft snow.
Routes: Idwal Stream (wII/III 3,3,2:led p.2)
An unusually early cold snap, which as ever brings mixed emotions: a strong desire to get out there coupled with an aversion to the stress that inevitably causes. This time of year is so busy there's no real chance of exploiting these wonderful conditions, however, so one just has to be sanguine! We had a few meagre hours at our disposal today, with limited gear, and used the time to check the conditions on this gentle winter trade route (which I also climbed in January). Lots of teams had the same idea, and the route gave the usual relaxed entertainment. Lots of ice, great conditions for the time of year although not quite as fat as in January. Vic led the first little rise, giving me the enjoyable second pitch up pure water ice (wet near the top). We then indulged in a little variation, up steeper ice left of the normal route, to gain the easy top section. After lunch on the plateau, surprised by how well the weather was holding up (wind but no snow, and great views over the Carneddau) we descended past Twll Du, a frustrating experience as it was clear many routes were in. An early finish meant I could get to the Collie via St Asaph to enjoy an excellent 6 mile headtorch run around Bwlch Penbarras and the side of Moel Famau on forest tracks with a deep covering of soft snow.
Saturday, November 27, 2010
Wrexham XC
Race: Wrexham XC (N.Wales Cross Country League Race 3)
Time/Position: 32:59 (24th from 151)
A rare appearance in the cross-country league, and my 39th competitive race of 2010. A crystal clear winter's day, with snow on the ground, meant that visiting the Wrexham suburbs rather than the hills was a tall order. That said, it made a nice change, particularly as it was only my 2nd or 3rd appearance in the XC league. The league is normally very competitive, but was probably less so today. Despite this, I felt a bit off the pace and found it hard to keep going on the last two laps. It's a flat course, made even easier today by the frozen ground, so there were few excuses.
Time/Position: 32:59 (24th from 151)
A rare appearance in the cross-country league, and my 39th competitive race of 2010. A crystal clear winter's day, with snow on the ground, meant that visiting the Wrexham suburbs rather than the hills was a tall order. That said, it made a nice change, particularly as it was only my 2nd or 3rd appearance in the XC league. The league is normally very competitive, but was probably less so today. Despite this, I felt a bit off the pace and found it hard to keep going on the last two laps. It's a flat course, made even easier today by the frozen ground, so there were few excuses.
Sunday, November 21, 2010
Mymbyr bouldering
We stayed in Conwy after the race, and went for a family bouldering outing today. The conditions could hardly have been less suitable, so it was perforce rather brief! We stopped at Idwal Cottage - all very damp, cold and greasy - so I just did the jamming crack (4) and scoop (10) before driving round to the RAC boulders in Mymbyr. This was a little more amenable, although still very greasy and cold, water in all the pockets. I did 10,11,12 on the slab, with M following 10, and E trying! Also did 1 and 6 (the good steep fin) on the central boulder, plus the easy Backside Arete. Afterwards, we had a walk and picnic at Capel Garmon, which was even colder: although it was satisfying to watch heavy rain sweep in over Ogwen as we lunched.
Saturday, November 20, 2010
Penmaenmawr fell race
Race: Penmaenmawr fell race (10.5m/2000ft)
Time/Position: 1:22:23 (25th from 237)
Another race in which I felt rather below par, although I suspect that today it was more a case of tactical error (and I really enjoyed myself despite, or perhaps because, of this). The race was run in reverse for a change this year, and I was ultra-conservative on the climb to the quarry, which is actually pretty gentle. A glorious sunburst as we approached the Stone Circle, by which time I was already well off the pace. The bog wasn't really the place for a weak and spindly runner to claw back places, especially into the wind and uphill, so I left it until the road at Bwlch y Ddaefaen before opening up a bit. An immediate stitch put paid to that idea, so I was forced to recover before entering the mist above the final checkpoint near the fords. I finally felt able to move a bit more quickly here, and actually had a lot left. But it was too late, and the 'no overtaking' rule on the steep donkey-track descent was a tad frustrating as I finished at the back of a large group of runners having spent several miles catching them up! This was my fourth outing on one of my favourite races, slightly easier and more enjoyable this way round. Jogged back over Sychnant to Conwy after the post-race beer and soup, making it a 15-16 mile day.
Time/Position: 1:22:23 (25th from 237)
Another race in which I felt rather below par, although I suspect that today it was more a case of tactical error (and I really enjoyed myself despite, or perhaps because, of this). The race was run in reverse for a change this year, and I was ultra-conservative on the climb to the quarry, which is actually pretty gentle. A glorious sunburst as we approached the Stone Circle, by which time I was already well off the pace. The bog wasn't really the place for a weak and spindly runner to claw back places, especially into the wind and uphill, so I left it until the road at Bwlch y Ddaefaen before opening up a bit. An immediate stitch put paid to that idea, so I was forced to recover before entering the mist above the final checkpoint near the fords. I finally felt able to move a bit more quickly here, and actually had a lot left. But it was too late, and the 'no overtaking' rule on the steep donkey-track descent was a tad frustrating as I finished at the back of a large group of runners having spent several miles catching them up! This was my fourth outing on one of my favourite races, slightly easier and more enjoyable this way round. Jogged back over Sychnant to Conwy after the post-race beer and soup, making it a 15-16 mile day.
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