Peaks: Arenig Fawr
Area: Arenig, Eryri
Yet another diabolical day of driving sleet and gales. A real sense of deja vu as Peter and I set off from the quarry car park in conditions that were, if anything, even worse than on the Carneddau this time last week. At least the icy wind helped us on the long run along the road to the start of the old race route, which branches off up a track to Llyn Arenig. This was hard work from the start, and we were already cold and soaked by the time we got to the bothy. This provided welcome shelter for us to get some more layers on, and as a result the long climb up the ridge was a little more comfortable (relatively speaking). The sleet turned to wet snow as we gained height, and the wind continued to howl through the crags and into us. Very poor visibility as we jogged along the weaving path which fortunately skirts below the main ridge line and was therefore relatively sheltered. The summit was no place to rest, so we pelted down to the north on a rough bearing to make a little traverse - eventually emerging in boggy wilderness above the quarry and negotiating our way down a steep gully (a temporary waterfall) to the quarry. The cloud base was so low that we were almost still navigating when we reached the car. It was still hammering down as we left: the forecast clearance never materialised.
Monday, December 30, 2013
Sunday, December 29, 2013
Jubilee Plunge
Race: Jubilee Plunge downhill fell race (2.2m/-1361ft)
Time/Position: 12.07 (10th from 75)
This unique race produces a level of muscle damage out of all proportion to it's short length and duration: no doubt a sign of my inflexibility! It's a very exciting event, though, albeit one that I'm never likely to do well on. A very pleasant trot up from Llangynhafal with Jez, Huw, John and others - under beautiful blue skies - to the eccentrically positioned start on top of Moel Famau (with a holiday crowd looking on with curiosity). An insanely fast start along the OD path to the north: then the best route to the finish at the Golden Lion pub breaks off left down narrow and exciting tracks. I then took a different route, contouring the hillside directly down to the gate at the bottom of the valley. Sadly, thick bracken makes this no quicker than the normal route and, after a slow vault of the gate, I found myself further behind the small group of runners in front. Try as I might, I couldn't close the gap: 10 seconds separated fifth place and me in tenth. The beer in the Goldie was as good as ever.
Time/Position: 12.07 (10th from 75)
This unique race produces a level of muscle damage out of all proportion to it's short length and duration: no doubt a sign of my inflexibility! It's a very exciting event, though, albeit one that I'm never likely to do well on. A very pleasant trot up from Llangynhafal with Jez, Huw, John and others - under beautiful blue skies - to the eccentrically positioned start on top of Moel Famau (with a holiday crowd looking on with curiosity). An insanely fast start along the OD path to the north: then the best route to the finish at the Golden Lion pub breaks off left down narrow and exciting tracks. I then took a different route, contouring the hillside directly down to the gate at the bottom of the valley. Sadly, thick bracken makes this no quicker than the normal route and, after a slow vault of the gate, I found myself further behind the small group of runners in front. Try as I might, I couldn't close the gap: 10 seconds separated fifth place and me in tenth. The beer in the Goldie was as good as ever.
Thursday, December 26, 2013
Round the Walls race
Race: Chester Round the Walls ('4m')
Time/Position: 22.10 (18th from 450)
The hardest frost of the winter, probably the first truly icy morning since April, meaning that yet again I was unable to sample the full event: the third time this has happened. But if the Walls were out because of the ice, I had already assumed the Roodee would be waterlogged. This was indeed the case, but whereas last year the race avoided it as a result, this year four aquatic laps were planned as an alternative to the icy walls. In my post-Xmas haste I had only packed my racing flats, and the slip-sliding nightmare that ensued was richly deserved. Really struggled to keep my footing, and longed for my fell shoes to give some grip. Nice short family outing, though, an opportunity to get some fresh air.
Time/Position: 22.10 (18th from 450)
The hardest frost of the winter, probably the first truly icy morning since April, meaning that yet again I was unable to sample the full event: the third time this has happened. But if the Walls were out because of the ice, I had already assumed the Roodee would be waterlogged. This was indeed the case, but whereas last year the race avoided it as a result, this year four aquatic laps were planned as an alternative to the icy walls. In my post-Xmas haste I had only packed my racing flats, and the slip-sliding nightmare that ensued was richly deserved. Really struggled to keep my footing, and longed for my fell shoes to give some grip. Nice short family outing, though, an opportunity to get some fresh air.
Monday, December 23, 2013
Carneddau run
Peaks: Moel Wnion
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
Our scheduled pre-Christmas Snowdonia run precisely coincided with the worst of an unusually deep depression and wild storm. It all made for a memorable outing, albeit far shorter than planned. Peter, Jez and I left Aber in torrential rain, benefiting from the shelter of the village and woods until we emerged towards the top of the tarmac start of the Foel Fras race route. Here, the wind was gusting to 80-90mph: and was directly in our face as we skirted Foel Dduarth heading up to our 'bad weather option' of Llyn Anafon. We were blown over a few times as we attempted to 'jog' into the upper valley - memories of the legendary OMM in 2008 and many other occasions - before giving up and heading back down to the car park. We then adopted another default plan, heading to Aber Falls. An astounding volume of water at the Falls, seemingly a wall of spray reminiscent of Yosemite. Quite exhilerating, though, and the rain eased a little as we ran along the top of the valley. As we descended back to the coast, Peter suggested trying to get up Moel Wnion on the assumption that we may get a tailwind. This worked, and we ploughed up the sheltered Afon Gam stream valley before ploughing up the boggy slopes of Wnion in a crosswind. After sheltering in the cairn to give some respite from the constant battering, we enjoyed a superb fast descent (with tailwind) down the Foel Fras race route climax. Dried off with a pint in the Albion.
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
Our scheduled pre-Christmas Snowdonia run precisely coincided with the worst of an unusually deep depression and wild storm. It all made for a memorable outing, albeit far shorter than planned. Peter, Jez and I left Aber in torrential rain, benefiting from the shelter of the village and woods until we emerged towards the top of the tarmac start of the Foel Fras race route. Here, the wind was gusting to 80-90mph: and was directly in our face as we skirted Foel Dduarth heading up to our 'bad weather option' of Llyn Anafon. We were blown over a few times as we attempted to 'jog' into the upper valley - memories of the legendary OMM in 2008 and many other occasions - before giving up and heading back down to the car park. We then adopted another default plan, heading to Aber Falls. An astounding volume of water at the Falls, seemingly a wall of spray reminiscent of Yosemite. Quite exhilerating, though, and the rain eased a little as we ran along the top of the valley. As we descended back to the coast, Peter suggested trying to get up Moel Wnion on the assumption that we may get a tailwind. This worked, and we ploughed up the sheltered Afon Gam stream valley before ploughing up the boggy slopes of Wnion in a crosswind. After sheltering in the cairn to give some respite from the constant battering, we enjoyed a superb fast descent (with tailwind) down the Foel Fras race route climax. Dried off with a pint in the Albion.
Sunday, December 15, 2013
Wigg Island Border League
Race: Wigg Island, Runcorn 5.5m (Border League Race 2)
Time/Position: 31.36 (14th from 282)
Must admit I'd never heard of Wigg Island before this race. Despite the post-industrial surroundings of the Mersey and Runcorn Bridge, it's been converted into a nature reserve and was a fine new venue for Helsby's border league fixture. Fewer fast young lads at the sharp end of the race, so my finishing position was a little more respectable than at Tattenhall. That said, I didn't feel particularly good for the three and a half laps, struggling to hold my pace especially on the short sharp climb at the far end of the island.
Time/Position: 31.36 (14th from 282)
Must admit I'd never heard of Wigg Island before this race. Despite the post-industrial surroundings of the Mersey and Runcorn Bridge, it's been converted into a nature reserve and was a fine new venue for Helsby's border league fixture. Fewer fast young lads at the sharp end of the race, so my finishing position was a little more respectable than at Tattenhall. That said, I didn't feel particularly good for the three and a half laps, struggling to hold my pace especially on the short sharp climb at the far end of the island.
Sunday, December 01, 2013
Cardington Cracker fell race
Race: Cardington Cracker (15k/800m/AM)
Time/Position: 1.27.56 (23rd from 259)
After feeling so awful on last week's race, I decided to go down to Shropshire with Huw and Andy at the last minute for this race - just to see if I felt any better. The answer, sadly, was no - and I came in a full five minutes slower than the time I recorded in 2011. The usual big field set off in perfect conditions, still and cool, from the chocolate-box village of Cardington. I set off steadily, and felt reasonably good for the ultra steep first climb up the Lawley: best to crawl on all fours at times! After the fast descent, I started to slow slightly on the second big climb up the Stretton side of Caer Caradog. The descent from here to the woods below Hope Bowdler hill is superb, and in 2011 I remember flying along this final section which takes in one more climb up Hope Bowdler then a long undulating ridge (the kind of terrain that is fantastic if you are going well and picking up places - the opposite was the case today!). Towards the end I creaked into some kind of life, but it was far too late. This really is a superb route though, and a great event.
Time/Position: 1.27.56 (23rd from 259)
After feeling so awful on last week's race, I decided to go down to Shropshire with Huw and Andy at the last minute for this race - just to see if I felt any better. The answer, sadly, was no - and I came in a full five minutes slower than the time I recorded in 2011. The usual big field set off in perfect conditions, still and cool, from the chocolate-box village of Cardington. I set off steadily, and felt reasonably good for the ultra steep first climb up the Lawley: best to crawl on all fours at times! After the fast descent, I started to slow slightly on the second big climb up the Stretton side of Caer Caradog. The descent from here to the woods below Hope Bowdler hill is superb, and in 2011 I remember flying along this final section which takes in one more climb up Hope Bowdler then a long undulating ridge (the kind of terrain that is fantastic if you are going well and picking up places - the opposite was the case today!). Towards the end I creaked into some kind of life, but it was far too late. This really is a superb route though, and a great event.
Saturday, November 23, 2013
Wrexham Cross Country
Race: Wrexham XC (North Wales Cross Country League race 3)
Time/Position: 33:50 (41st from 143)
A dreadful performance, around 20 places down on my two previous outings on this course. As usual, I've already missed too many of the North Wales series to count, but thought I'd try to help the team on this - the usual fast and flat four lap course around playing fields on the eastern edge of Wrexham. In contrast to last year's icy rain, is was cold and dry today: but I started to struggle on the second lap then lost a dramatic amount of time and places on a very tough final lap. Really suffered, despite the extreme flatness of the course: my worst race for some time.
Time/Position: 33:50 (41st from 143)
A dreadful performance, around 20 places down on my two previous outings on this course. As usual, I've already missed too many of the North Wales series to count, but thought I'd try to help the team on this - the usual fast and flat four lap course around playing fields on the eastern edge of Wrexham. In contrast to last year's icy rain, is was cold and dry today: but I started to struggle on the second lap then lost a dramatic amount of time and places on a very tough final lap. Really suffered, despite the extreme flatness of the course: my worst race for some time.
Sunday, November 17, 2013
Tattenhall Border League
Race: Tattenhall '10k' (Border League Race 1)
Time/Position: 35.11 (24th from 339)
Worst finishing position in the league for two years, but rather suspect that this was an unusually strong field - as the season openers often are. Lost quite a lot of ground on the steep double climb up to the Peckforton Hills and only really started picking up the pace in the last couple of 'false flat' miles. Felt quite good towards the end but couldn't quite close the gap to a small group containing Jez, Darren et al. Alongside Caernarfon, this is probably the most scenic, and best, BL course: 200m shy of 10k, but the hills make up the shortfall!
Time/Position: 35.11 (24th from 339)
Worst finishing position in the league for two years, but rather suspect that this was an unusually strong field - as the season openers often are. Lost quite a lot of ground on the steep double climb up to the Peckforton Hills and only really started picking up the pace in the last couple of 'false flat' miles. Felt quite good towards the end but couldn't quite close the gap to a small group containing Jez, Darren et al. Alongside Caernarfon, this is probably the most scenic, and best, BL course: 200m shy of 10k, but the hills make up the shortfall!
Saturday, November 09, 2013
Ras Rhobell Fawr
Race: Rhobell Fawr fell race (10.3k/600m/AM)
Time/Position: 60:45 (3rd from 43 [1st V40])
On a soft Autumn day the scenery around Dolgellau is exquisite, so this was an excellent day trip topped off with a superb leg-loosening jog around the Precipice Walk. Sadly, I didn't really get going on the race itself until the final descent down the tracks and paths from Bwlch Goriwared, but luckily this part of the descent favoured a bit of road speed so I was able to hold off the challenge from a few young lads to hold onto third position. It's a great race: up muddy forest tracks above the strangely named Afon Babi to gain the open hillside at the Bwlch. I moved into third position quite soon, but didn't feel good on the main 1500ft climb: worse, I took some awful lines after the bog of Ffynnon Sion - heading away from the wall too early, meaning I went up the western forepeak and several other steep knolls unnecessarily. A young lad passed me near the cairn, but I regained third as I tried to take the best line down to the right: I lost my nerve, though, unsure of the route so retreated to the 'handrail' of the wall, taking more inefficient lines back down to the bwlch. I was so slow that three younger runners were just behind at Bwlch Goriwared, but I was just able to hold them off as I finally sprang into some kind of life for this final fast section back to Llanfachreth. Very wet and muddy underfoot! I ended up third, and first Veteran. After soup and prizes in the village hall, Adair and I set off for a superbly enjoyable warm-down around the famous Precipice Walk, which I last did with Kate after Ras y Gader some years ago. A violent hailstorm cleared as we started off, and the autumnal colours under dark skies gave fabulous, ever-changing views back up to Rhobell Fawr, then over Coed y Brenin, then Mawddach and Cader Idris.
Time/Position: 60:45 (3rd from 43 [1st V40])
On a soft Autumn day the scenery around Dolgellau is exquisite, so this was an excellent day trip topped off with a superb leg-loosening jog around the Precipice Walk. Sadly, I didn't really get going on the race itself until the final descent down the tracks and paths from Bwlch Goriwared, but luckily this part of the descent favoured a bit of road speed so I was able to hold off the challenge from a few young lads to hold onto third position. It's a great race: up muddy forest tracks above the strangely named Afon Babi to gain the open hillside at the Bwlch. I moved into third position quite soon, but didn't feel good on the main 1500ft climb: worse, I took some awful lines after the bog of Ffynnon Sion - heading away from the wall too early, meaning I went up the western forepeak and several other steep knolls unnecessarily. A young lad passed me near the cairn, but I regained third as I tried to take the best line down to the right: I lost my nerve, though, unsure of the route so retreated to the 'handrail' of the wall, taking more inefficient lines back down to the bwlch. I was so slow that three younger runners were just behind at Bwlch Goriwared, but I was just able to hold them off as I finally sprang into some kind of life for this final fast section back to Llanfachreth. Very wet and muddy underfoot! I ended up third, and first Veteran. After soup and prizes in the village hall, Adair and I set off for a superbly enjoyable warm-down around the famous Precipice Walk, which I last did with Kate after Ras y Gader some years ago. A violent hailstorm cleared as we started off, and the autumnal colours under dark skies gave fabulous, ever-changing views back up to Rhobell Fawr, then over Coed y Brenin, then Mawddach and Cader Idris.
Sunday, November 03, 2013
Abergele 5m
Race: Abergele 5m (North Wales Championships)
Time/Position: 28.57 (6th from 187 [3rd V40])
Glancing at my watch with 400m to go, I thought I was on for a decent time here - at the very least a PB for the course. But, weirdly, I ended up 6 seconds slower than my 2011 and 2012 times and a minute down on my 5m PB. There is something rather strange about this course, which is notoriously tough with one long, gradual hill for the first two miles and one short, very sharp climb at the three mile point. The strange part is that I always end up with virtually the same time, whether I feel good or bad during the race. It's an excellent, and well organised event though, which always incorporates the North Wales championships and, as such, tends to attract a strong and competitive field especially among the Veterans. Could only manage bronze today, to add to last year's silver and 2011's gold in the champs - but, more positively, 6th is my best ever overall position at this race. There was a bit of a headwind at times today, which may account for the lost seconds.
Time/Position: 28.57 (6th from 187 [3rd V40])
Glancing at my watch with 400m to go, I thought I was on for a decent time here - at the very least a PB for the course. But, weirdly, I ended up 6 seconds slower than my 2011 and 2012 times and a minute down on my 5m PB. There is something rather strange about this course, which is notoriously tough with one long, gradual hill for the first two miles and one short, very sharp climb at the three mile point. The strange part is that I always end up with virtually the same time, whether I feel good or bad during the race. It's an excellent, and well organised event though, which always incorporates the North Wales championships and, as such, tends to attract a strong and competitive field especially among the Veterans. Could only manage bronze today, to add to last year's silver and 2011's gold in the champs - but, more positively, 6th is my best ever overall position at this race. There was a bit of a headwind at times today, which may account for the lost seconds.
Sunday, October 20, 2013
British Fell Relays
Race: British fell relay championships, Llanberis (Leg 2, 15k, 1000m)
Time/Position: 1.33 (40th from 180)
Peaks: Moel Cynghorion, Foel Goch, Foel Gron, Moel Eilio
Buckley's third appearance at this great team event - which this year came to the hills west of Llanberis and was therefore virtually home territory. As usual, our small club struggled to get a team together and once we did it became tricky to assign runners to legs. In the end, Eddie set off on the fast first leg for his first ever fell race - and the rain began in earnest as Simon and I waited for him in the holding pen. Unlike last year, when I took the navigation leg, this year I was on the long (15k) 'pairs' leg across the Moel Eilio ridge. In another contrast with Church Stretton and Llangynhafal (our two previous relay champs) the 'HQ' this year was the Glyn Rhonwy quarry and a flat expanse of slate waste. Slightly grim, but good views of the hills and the approaching weather systems sweeping down from Pen y Pass! Strong winds soon flattened the big club's gazebos - but our 3ft high tent remained intact throughout. We got a real drenching as we waited for Eddie, then set out for a very fast initial 5k southwards along the paths west of Llanberis towards Hebron station. This flat, fast stuff is more my terrain than Simon's, but it was all very muddy today - flowing water at several points along the paths. The brutal climb up the northern slopes of Cynghorion came immediately afterwards - it was a matter of getting my head down and trying to stay with Simon's relentless uphill pace. Hands came in useful! Once we reached the checkpoint on the summit, the wind tore into us, and this made for tough running along the rest of the ridge in poor viz. Painful horizontal hail and 70mph gusts made this a classic test. We did OK, and seemed to be passing a few teams, although our finishing position was a bit disappointing. I know the ground here fairly well, and was looking forward to the long final descent. Simon eats this stuff for breakfast, but I kept with him reasonably well and we plunged down the final very muddy slopes (a waist-deep quagmire, perfect for spectating schadenfreude as runners plunged in!) to hand over to Huw and Dave for leg 3.
Time/Position: 1.33 (40th from 180)
Peaks: Moel Cynghorion, Foel Goch, Foel Gron, Moel Eilio
Buckley's third appearance at this great team event - which this year came to the hills west of Llanberis and was therefore virtually home territory. As usual, our small club struggled to get a team together and once we did it became tricky to assign runners to legs. In the end, Eddie set off on the fast first leg for his first ever fell race - and the rain began in earnest as Simon and I waited for him in the holding pen. Unlike last year, when I took the navigation leg, this year I was on the long (15k) 'pairs' leg across the Moel Eilio ridge. In another contrast with Church Stretton and Llangynhafal (our two previous relay champs) the 'HQ' this year was the Glyn Rhonwy quarry and a flat expanse of slate waste. Slightly grim, but good views of the hills and the approaching weather systems sweeping down from Pen y Pass! Strong winds soon flattened the big club's gazebos - but our 3ft high tent remained intact throughout. We got a real drenching as we waited for Eddie, then set out for a very fast initial 5k southwards along the paths west of Llanberis towards Hebron station. This flat, fast stuff is more my terrain than Simon's, but it was all very muddy today - flowing water at several points along the paths. The brutal climb up the northern slopes of Cynghorion came immediately afterwards - it was a matter of getting my head down and trying to stay with Simon's relentless uphill pace. Hands came in useful! Once we reached the checkpoint on the summit, the wind tore into us, and this made for tough running along the rest of the ridge in poor viz. Painful horizontal hail and 70mph gusts made this a classic test. We did OK, and seemed to be passing a few teams, although our finishing position was a bit disappointing. I know the ground here fairly well, and was looking forward to the long final descent. Simon eats this stuff for breakfast, but I kept with him reasonably well and we plunged down the final very muddy slopes (a waist-deep quagmire, perfect for spectating schadenfreude as runners plunged in!) to hand over to Huw and Dave for leg 3.
Sunday, October 13, 2013
Flintshire 10k
Race: Flintshire 10k (Mold)
Time/Position: 37.07 (7th from 495 [1st V40])
It was fairly obvious that this was never going to be a PB course: a new route which is essentially an extension of our Border League 5 miler. Perhaps best described as a fell race on tarmac, I reckon it must be close to 600ft of climbing squeezed into 3k. I thought it might suit me, and had gone surprisingly well in my first intervals session since March last Tuesday, so seemed to have some form. Given the steepness of the hill, I started conservatively from Mold then just tried to maintain the effort and keep it going for the very steep (17%?) slopes beyond Nercwys. From here, the race turns back down towards Nercwys but remains 'fell-like' with an equally steep and slippery descent. The rain got a little heavier as myself and Gary had an excellent battle throughout the run-in - couldn't quite catch the two lads in front. I started to feel a stitch developing on the fast descent, but it never became crippling as we rejoined the normal BL run-in back to Mold. I last did this race three years ago (when I also won my category), but think the new route gives it a bit of character! At the prize giving, Buckley won first team and I got first V40, despite the fact that I was three minutes slower than my PB.
Time/Position: 37.07 (7th from 495 [1st V40])
It was fairly obvious that this was never going to be a PB course: a new route which is essentially an extension of our Border League 5 miler. Perhaps best described as a fell race on tarmac, I reckon it must be close to 600ft of climbing squeezed into 3k. I thought it might suit me, and had gone surprisingly well in my first intervals session since March last Tuesday, so seemed to have some form. Given the steepness of the hill, I started conservatively from Mold then just tried to maintain the effort and keep it going for the very steep (17%?) slopes beyond Nercwys. From here, the race turns back down towards Nercwys but remains 'fell-like' with an equally steep and slippery descent. The rain got a little heavier as myself and Gary had an excellent battle throughout the run-in - couldn't quite catch the two lads in front. I started to feel a stitch developing on the fast descent, but it never became crippling as we rejoined the normal BL run-in back to Mold. I last did this race three years ago (when I also won my category), but think the new route gives it a bit of character! At the prize giving, Buckley won first team and I got first V40, despite the fact that I was three minutes slower than my PB.
Sunday, September 29, 2013
Rab Mountain Marathon
Race: Rab Mountain Marathon, day two
Peaks: Grasmoor, Sand Hill, Outerside (Derwent Fells, Lake District)
Time/Position: 180pts in 4:29 (17th from 213 [2nd V40])
I ate my porridge by the light of the moon above the High Stile ridge, keen to make an early start. As with yesterday, I didn't really consider many route choices as the day provided an opportunity to head up some peaks I've never done before. One of these was Grasmoor, and I had already resigned myself to starting the day with the 2500ft slog to the top - not because I felt it was the best route choice, but because I've never done it before and the weather was again so good that it seemed wrong not to enjoy the tops (but when I found out what the prize for first V40 was I wished I'd been a little less romantic and a little more hard-headed about the route planning!). The first control was at a hidden sheepfold in Cinderdale Beck: and rather than slog through the heather like a number of other runners were doing, I took the path further south and contoured in, before contouring back out through the gruelling heather to the Lad Hows ridge up Grasmoor. This is relentless, and a strong headwind (that had woken me several times last night) didn't help one bit: a brutal way to start the day, and all for 25 points at the summit cairn. Wonderful views compensated, with the same clarity of light that we all enjoyed yesterday. I felt a little tired running down to Coledale Hause - completely new territory for me - the contoured too high above Eel Crag, meaning I had to drop down awkward terrain to dib the next checkpoint in a sheepfold. A tiring climb, hot already, back to the Hause and up Sand Hill (a subsidiary summit to Hopegill Head. Then I left the crowds behind for the excellent ridge NE over a forepeak towards Grisedale Pike. No need to go up this, as the control was hidden deep in remote Grisedale Gill to the North East. So a long and trackless traverse past the tourist path led down into this unfrequented valley for another remote and demanding checkpoint. Draining, very awkward terrain then made for snail-like progress back up to the Grisedale Pike ridge and all the way down to the 200m contour at the bottom of characterless Coledale Beck. Then came the crux of the entire weekend - a desperate and somewhat pointless slog direct up the northerly slopes of Outerside to get the control on the summit. Not a sensible route choice and a rather demoralising experience. Still, it meant I could take a long contouring descent on a narrow and intermittent sheep trod to get more points below Causey Pike before a short heathery climb to the little spur of Rowling End. I had at least half an hour to play with, and could have got a 20 pointer in Rigg Beck, but was quite tired so played it far too safe and descended to Stonycroft Gill and the finish above Stair. Inevitably, I lost a few places due to poor route planning and over-caution today - but it hardly mattered in the context of a great weekend, the 7th consecutive year this event has experienced benign, dry weather.
Peaks: Grasmoor, Sand Hill, Outerside (Derwent Fells, Lake District)
Time/Position: 180pts in 4:29 (17th from 213 [2nd V40])
I ate my porridge by the light of the moon above the High Stile ridge, keen to make an early start. As with yesterday, I didn't really consider many route choices as the day provided an opportunity to head up some peaks I've never done before. One of these was Grasmoor, and I had already resigned myself to starting the day with the 2500ft slog to the top - not because I felt it was the best route choice, but because I've never done it before and the weather was again so good that it seemed wrong not to enjoy the tops (but when I found out what the prize for first V40 was I wished I'd been a little less romantic and a little more hard-headed about the route planning!). The first control was at a hidden sheepfold in Cinderdale Beck: and rather than slog through the heather like a number of other runners were doing, I took the path further south and contoured in, before contouring back out through the gruelling heather to the Lad Hows ridge up Grasmoor. This is relentless, and a strong headwind (that had woken me several times last night) didn't help one bit: a brutal way to start the day, and all for 25 points at the summit cairn. Wonderful views compensated, with the same clarity of light that we all enjoyed yesterday. I felt a little tired running down to Coledale Hause - completely new territory for me - the contoured too high above Eel Crag, meaning I had to drop down awkward terrain to dib the next checkpoint in a sheepfold. A tiring climb, hot already, back to the Hause and up Sand Hill (a subsidiary summit to Hopegill Head. Then I left the crowds behind for the excellent ridge NE over a forepeak towards Grisedale Pike. No need to go up this, as the control was hidden deep in remote Grisedale Gill to the North East. So a long and trackless traverse past the tourist path led down into this unfrequented valley for another remote and demanding checkpoint. Draining, very awkward terrain then made for snail-like progress back up to the Grisedale Pike ridge and all the way down to the 200m contour at the bottom of characterless Coledale Beck. Then came the crux of the entire weekend - a desperate and somewhat pointless slog direct up the northerly slopes of Outerside to get the control on the summit. Not a sensible route choice and a rather demoralising experience. Still, it meant I could take a long contouring descent on a narrow and intermittent sheep trod to get more points below Causey Pike before a short heathery climb to the little spur of Rowling End. I had at least half an hour to play with, and could have got a 20 pointer in Rigg Beck, but was quite tired so played it far too safe and descended to Stonycroft Gill and the finish above Stair. Inevitably, I lost a few places due to poor route planning and over-caution today - but it hardly mattered in the context of a great weekend, the 7th consecutive year this event has experienced benign, dry weather.
Saturday, September 28, 2013
Rab Mountain Marathon
Race: Rab Mountain Marathon, day one
Peaks: Catbells, Maiden Moor, Grey Knotts, Fleetwith Pike, Haystacks, High Crag, High Stile
Time/Position: 310pts in 5:31 (13th from 213 [2nd V40])
After missing the Rab last year, I was keen to give it a good bash again, particularly after my disastrous showing on home soil in the Carneddau in 2011. This turned out to be a magical weekend of stunning weather and fantastic running in the most beautiful corner of the Lakes, with superbly challenging route planning and the usual low-key atmosphere: my 5th appearance at this great event. The HQ was at Newlands Adventure Centre, which I'd last visited 25 years ago to the day on a Manchester University geography field trip, Fresher's Week 1988! After a good night's sleep in the back of the car, and a large breakfast, I set off from Skelgill: it was a beautiful clear morning, so I didn't really think much about route choice - I just wanted to get on the ridge as soon as possible just to enjoy it. As such, a quick slog up and over the Catbells ridge revealed the famous view of Derwent Water. Possibly the best view in England, so I continued south along the ridge to savour it a little more, over Catbells to Hause Gate - fantastic easy running - before contouring round (slightly unnecessary) to another control below Maiden Moor. From the summit, I picked a good and fast line down Narrow Moor to a hidden control well down the Borrowdale side of High Spy, at Nitting Haws. I remember struggling to this point into a ferocious headwind during the infamous OMM of 2008. From here, a long traverse on tricky terrain led to Launchy Tarn, before an easy leg picked up more points at the little quarry familiar from the Borrowdale fell race final climb up Dale Head. Fast running down to Honister Pass, then up an excellent hidden trod to gain big points at a high knoll above Seatoller: very distant from start and finish! From here I took another efficient line SW, spying out a narrow ledge that traversed diagonally above Raven Crag (Gillercombe Buttress) to gain the Grey Knotts/Brandreth ridge. Nobody else took this line, which had some scrambling, but it landed me bang on the control at a little pond. It was all going so well, something had to go wrong: and it did so immediately. I didn't properly plan the next section: so dropped down to a control at Dubs Bottom before embarking on the draining climb direct up to the summit of Fleetwith Pike. I had planned to go directly across to High Crag, but the height loss and sheer steepness rendered this completely ludicrous, so I effectively had to retrace my steps before picking up the path over Haystacks. Clearly, I did this section in completely the wrong order. I was furious with myself, and reckon it cost me between 20 and 40 points. Still, the traverse of Haystacks was a delight, one of Lakeland's finest corners. It was very hot now, and I stripped to the waist before dibbing the control at exquisite Blackbeck Tarn. Tiring lumpy terrain leads over the crowded summit of Haystacks to Scarth Gap, before the very steep climb up High Crag. I've been this way at least twice before, once in a ferocious blizzard, and knew it would be the crux - especially in this heat. But the views of Pillar are superb, and a 40 point checkpoint awaited me on the summit. I got to High Stile efficiently, the highpoint of the ridge, then headed for home directly down a very steep gully on Chapel Crags to Bleaberry Tarn. I was tired now after five hours of running, so was pleased to take the zigzag path east of Sour Milk Gill to Buttermere. Then it was 3-4k back along the roads and a bridleway to the overnight camp at Cinderdale Common. I found myself in 13th place overnight, second Veteran: just 20 points behind the leader, about what I lost due to my stupid route planning error. The camp was in a lovely spot above Crummock Water: hot and sunny, with superb views back up to High Stile.
Peaks: Catbells, Maiden Moor, Grey Knotts, Fleetwith Pike, Haystacks, High Crag, High Stile
Time/Position: 310pts in 5:31 (13th from 213 [2nd V40])
After missing the Rab last year, I was keen to give it a good bash again, particularly after my disastrous showing on home soil in the Carneddau in 2011. This turned out to be a magical weekend of stunning weather and fantastic running in the most beautiful corner of the Lakes, with superbly challenging route planning and the usual low-key atmosphere: my 5th appearance at this great event. The HQ was at Newlands Adventure Centre, which I'd last visited 25 years ago to the day on a Manchester University geography field trip, Fresher's Week 1988! After a good night's sleep in the back of the car, and a large breakfast, I set off from Skelgill: it was a beautiful clear morning, so I didn't really think much about route choice - I just wanted to get on the ridge as soon as possible just to enjoy it. As such, a quick slog up and over the Catbells ridge revealed the famous view of Derwent Water. Possibly the best view in England, so I continued south along the ridge to savour it a little more, over Catbells to Hause Gate - fantastic easy running - before contouring round (slightly unnecessary) to another control below Maiden Moor. From the summit, I picked a good and fast line down Narrow Moor to a hidden control well down the Borrowdale side of High Spy, at Nitting Haws. I remember struggling to this point into a ferocious headwind during the infamous OMM of 2008. From here, a long traverse on tricky terrain led to Launchy Tarn, before an easy leg picked up more points at the little quarry familiar from the Borrowdale fell race final climb up Dale Head. Fast running down to Honister Pass, then up an excellent hidden trod to gain big points at a high knoll above Seatoller: very distant from start and finish! From here I took another efficient line SW, spying out a narrow ledge that traversed diagonally above Raven Crag (Gillercombe Buttress) to gain the Grey Knotts/Brandreth ridge. Nobody else took this line, which had some scrambling, but it landed me bang on the control at a little pond. It was all going so well, something had to go wrong: and it did so immediately. I didn't properly plan the next section: so dropped down to a control at Dubs Bottom before embarking on the draining climb direct up to the summit of Fleetwith Pike. I had planned to go directly across to High Crag, but the height loss and sheer steepness rendered this completely ludicrous, so I effectively had to retrace my steps before picking up the path over Haystacks. Clearly, I did this section in completely the wrong order. I was furious with myself, and reckon it cost me between 20 and 40 points. Still, the traverse of Haystacks was a delight, one of Lakeland's finest corners. It was very hot now, and I stripped to the waist before dibbing the control at exquisite Blackbeck Tarn. Tiring lumpy terrain leads over the crowded summit of Haystacks to Scarth Gap, before the very steep climb up High Crag. I've been this way at least twice before, once in a ferocious blizzard, and knew it would be the crux - especially in this heat. But the views of Pillar are superb, and a 40 point checkpoint awaited me on the summit. I got to High Stile efficiently, the highpoint of the ridge, then headed for home directly down a very steep gully on Chapel Crags to Bleaberry Tarn. I was tired now after five hours of running, so was pleased to take the zigzag path east of Sour Milk Gill to Buttermere. Then it was 3-4k back along the roads and a bridleway to the overnight camp at Cinderdale Common. I found myself in 13th place overnight, second Veteran: just 20 points behind the leader, about what I lost due to my stupid route planning error. The camp was in a lovely spot above Crummock Water: hot and sunny, with superb views back up to High Stile.
Sunday, September 22, 2013
Swansea Bay 10k
Race: Swansea Bay 10k (Welsh Championships)
Time/Position: 36.05 (80th from 3000 [8th V40])
Not even a season's best time, which was the minimum target today: my third appearance for North Wales in the national 10k championships. Instead, this quickly turned into my worst performance in the vest and I couldn't even break 36 minutes on a flat course. We'd stayed overnight at Steve's in Llanwrthwl, and not got much sleep, which didn't help. I was also inclined to blame last week's Pedol Peris epic, but the real reason is probably just lack of sufficient training and intervals in particular - having not trained with Buckley since March. The Swansea Bay 10k is a massive and excellent event, though, possibly even bigger than the Cardiff 10k, with over 3000 runners going from St Helens along the road to Mumbles then back along the seafront to Swansea. Conditions were almost ideal, still and cloudy, although it did become hot and humid on the return leg (for me anyway!). A fast start saw the first 3k covered in 10.30, and a gentle hill led to the edge of Mumbles and the 5k mark in 17.35 or so. If I'd maintained this pace, I'd have managed a respectable time, but although I initially started to gain on some team-mates I struggled again after the 8k mark and was really suffering at the finish. Not a great performance, but it's always an honour to run for the region and the event itself was really good with a big race atmosphere and excellent support from across Wales.
Time/Position: 36.05 (80th from 3000 [8th V40])
Not even a season's best time, which was the minimum target today: my third appearance for North Wales in the national 10k championships. Instead, this quickly turned into my worst performance in the vest and I couldn't even break 36 minutes on a flat course. We'd stayed overnight at Steve's in Llanwrthwl, and not got much sleep, which didn't help. I was also inclined to blame last week's Pedol Peris epic, but the real reason is probably just lack of sufficient training and intervals in particular - having not trained with Buckley since March. The Swansea Bay 10k is a massive and excellent event, though, possibly even bigger than the Cardiff 10k, with over 3000 runners going from St Helens along the road to Mumbles then back along the seafront to Swansea. Conditions were almost ideal, still and cloudy, although it did become hot and humid on the return leg (for me anyway!). A fast start saw the first 3k covered in 10.30, and a gentle hill led to the edge of Mumbles and the 5k mark in 17.35 or so. If I'd maintained this pace, I'd have managed a respectable time, but although I initially started to gain on some team-mates I struggled again after the 8k mark and was really suffering at the finish. Not a great performance, but it's always an honour to run for the region and the event itself was really good with a big race atmosphere and excellent support from across Wales.
Friday, September 20, 2013
Craig Rhiw Goch climbing
Crag: Craig Rhiw Goch, Lledr Valley
Routes: Reign (S:led), Congl (VS 4c:sec), Congl Direct Finish (HVS 5b:sec), The Riparian (E2 5c:sec)
A small but exquisitely formed crag on the banks of the Lledr. I've wanted to do these routes for years, but have never got round to it, partly because the crag is not the easiest venue to find. Once you work it out, though, it's just a few minutes from the road, which makes its unpopularity even more baffling than other nearby venues like Crafnant and Swallow Falls. I imagine it's something to do with its absence from modern selective guidebooks (although it is in my old tried and tested Williams guide). We only had a couple of hours spare late on, but that was enough time to do the routes, although it would have been nice to linger as it is a delightful spot in oak woodland right next to a beautiful stretch of the Lledr, a constant rushing presence. Reign is a very pleasant Severe, but the first few feet are a bit dirty now - and the rock was greasy after recent rain. But a steep 30ft wall is then taken on excellent holds to a little spike, then a ledge on the left before a juggy rib leads up to a final slab. A neat little route which, to repeat a theme from this summer's esoteric climbing trips, needs more traffic. I had to clear the mud from cracks to place gear higher up. Congl takes the obvious central groove, with a tricky move up the initial wall to gain a narrow slab which merges with the main groove and gives good easy climbing to a steepening. After one thought-provoking move which needs careful footwork, a ledge is reached. Vic traversed left on the normal finish, but I was able to take the excellent direct finish up the steep continuation groove. This is not as hard as the given grade (VS+ 5a I'd say) but gives a fine steep finish on small positive holds. The Riparian is even better - a superb 100ft pitch with varied technical climbing. It is never very strenuous, but absorbing throughout and a feasible lead. The initial steep slab is delightful, never overly obvious, but little flakey holds and neat thoughtful footwork allows the thin groove above to be gained. The crack here is slim but positive and leads to a right-leaning crack which I assumed was the crux. Instead, it goes easily to a resting foot ledge before a slim groove leads to two pockets. Then comes the crux, near the top: a fierce pull on the pockets with little ripples for the feet gains a good jug and easy finishing groove. Immaculate climbing. Then it was off to Cadole for the Friday night Clwydian run, followed by a rest before Sunday's Welsh 10k championships in Swansea.
Routes: Reign (S:led), Congl (VS 4c:sec), Congl Direct Finish (HVS 5b:sec), The Riparian (E2 5c:sec)
A small but exquisitely formed crag on the banks of the Lledr. I've wanted to do these routes for years, but have never got round to it, partly because the crag is not the easiest venue to find. Once you work it out, though, it's just a few minutes from the road, which makes its unpopularity even more baffling than other nearby venues like Crafnant and Swallow Falls. I imagine it's something to do with its absence from modern selective guidebooks (although it is in my old tried and tested Williams guide). We only had a couple of hours spare late on, but that was enough time to do the routes, although it would have been nice to linger as it is a delightful spot in oak woodland right next to a beautiful stretch of the Lledr, a constant rushing presence. Reign is a very pleasant Severe, but the first few feet are a bit dirty now - and the rock was greasy after recent rain. But a steep 30ft wall is then taken on excellent holds to a little spike, then a ledge on the left before a juggy rib leads up to a final slab. A neat little route which, to repeat a theme from this summer's esoteric climbing trips, needs more traffic. I had to clear the mud from cracks to place gear higher up. Congl takes the obvious central groove, with a tricky move up the initial wall to gain a narrow slab which merges with the main groove and gives good easy climbing to a steepening. After one thought-provoking move which needs careful footwork, a ledge is reached. Vic traversed left on the normal finish, but I was able to take the excellent direct finish up the steep continuation groove. This is not as hard as the given grade (VS+ 5a I'd say) but gives a fine steep finish on small positive holds. The Riparian is even better - a superb 100ft pitch with varied technical climbing. It is never very strenuous, but absorbing throughout and a feasible lead. The initial steep slab is delightful, never overly obvious, but little flakey holds and neat thoughtful footwork allows the thin groove above to be gained. The crack here is slim but positive and leads to a right-leaning crack which I assumed was the crux. Instead, it goes easily to a resting foot ledge before a slim groove leads to two pockets. Then comes the crux, near the top: a fierce pull on the pockets with little ripples for the feet gains a good jug and easy finishing groove. Immaculate climbing. Then it was off to Cadole for the Friday night Clwydian run, followed by a rest before Sunday's Welsh 10k championships in Swansea.
Sunday, September 15, 2013
Pedol Peris
Race: Peris Horseshoe fell race (18m/8500ft/AL)
Peaks: Elidir Fawr, Y Garn, Glyder Fawr, Lliwedd, Snowdon, Moel Cynghorion
Peaks: Elidir Fawr, Y Garn, Glyder Fawr, Lliwedd, Snowdon, Moel Cynghorion
Time/Position: 4.13.16 (55th from 200)
The hardest Welsh mountain race of all - some explanation for the fact that it's been five years since my last attempt at this event. Sadly, I didn't have anywhere near the right amount of hill mileage in my legs for this, but gave it a bash as it was part of the Welsh and British championships this year. As such, the quality and size of the field was remarkable and the pace very high as we set off - rain clearing - from Llanberis. This is one of the unique things about the sport - unlike even the highest profile 10k, here you are competing directly with the very best in a relatively small field. As a result, you get instantly blown away by superb athletes and it puts you firmly back in your rightful place (55th in my case!) The sheer scale of this event meant I deliberately took it as easy as was feasible on the inclines through the quarries, always atmospheric, to Elidir Fach. Skirted this, then took the longer line to gain the misty summit of Elidir in 48 minutes from Llanberis. Superb running around the head of the cwm as all the mist cleared away from the Glyderau. This is the route's highlight, best enjoyed when fresh! I slowed for the sharp haul up Y Garn, then tried to keep a steady but sustainable pace for the rough descent down to Llyn y Cwn and the steep climb up Glyder Fawr. Although it was taking a while to find my rhythm on the climbs, once I did I started to feel reasonably strong and I got to Pen y Pass via the long 'red spot' descent from Glyder Fawr (missing the 'short cut' from the glacis and wasting more time) in 1.56. The real race then begins: in 2008 I suffered badly from dehydration over Lliwedd and had no wish to repeat the experience. This time I was more cautious, jogging the Miner's Track to Llyn Llydaw with a full bottle of water, then scrambling over Lliwedd, trying to keep pace with Adrian from Eryri across Bwlch y Saethau and directly up the rocky East ridge into the mist on Yr Wyddfa. The summit of Snowdon was as crowded and surreal as ever, and I dodged the crowds from the cairn and leapt onto the railway to ensure I didn't miss the turn for the Snowdon Ranger path. Indeed, if the race just descended to Llanberis from Snowdon it would be relatively easy - but it doesn't, so the crux is this brutal final leg. I fell quite badly on the screes of the Ranger path - the momentum meant an inevitable somersault with head-on-scree contact. Never pleasant, but I managed to minimise the blow and continued, a little shaken. A painfully slow descent and tough climb back over Moel Cynghorion - now out of the mist - in 3.47. Had 13 mins left to break 4 hours, which wasn't going to happen. Instead I got even slower down to Maesgwm and through the deep stream, developing an appalling stitch for the final 'fast' run through Coed Victoria to Llanberis. This lost me even more time as I was reduced to a crippled jog, removing bumbag and bent double in an attempt to relieve the pain. Then came a desperate effort to recover in time to represent North Wales at the starkly contrasting Welsh 10k champs next week.
Monday, September 09, 2013
Gorbio climbing
Crag: La Balme, Gorbio, Provence
Routes: De Bouche a Oreille (f5:led), Signe Ascendant (f5+:led), Le Bonheur Est Dans le Pre (f5+:sec), Les Mots Pour le Dire (f5+:sec), La Lyceene (f6a:sec), Tango Passion (f5:led), Peut-etre (f6a+:led)
Just another Provencal venue with beautiful views in every direction, a tranquil ambience, and an abundance of three-star classic climbs up a wonderland of perfect sculpted limestone features. We liked it! A tortuous road leads from La Turbie round the edge of Monaco's grotesque excess and up into another world. Gorbio is a perfect 'village perche', protected from tourists by its awkward location. We parked above the village and walked into the crag through small allotments and copses. The crag is one of many at the head of this typical Provencal limestone valley - and is wonderfully tranquil. We had a few hours before the sun hit the face, so got to work immediately. The crag is characterised by a series of slabby ramplines that head diagonally leftwards and break the other theme of unrelenting steepness. The limestone features are just beautiful and lend themselves to stunning climbing up these lines of weakness. De Bouche a Oreille was a perfect example: it took a sort of 'tube' of waterworn limestone with a steep wall plunging away to the left and another curving above the ramp to the right. It gave a remarkably aesthetic climb, on beautiful cream and grey shaded limestone, using little pockets and tiny pinched holds to make progress up the slab. A wonderful start, but eclipsed by the massive Signe Ascendant to its right, which gave a monster 35m+ E1 pitch up another ramp line. This started more steeply, up a very awkward vertical groove which gives access to the main slab. This gave quite extraordinary climbing: tiny edges led to a flake crack which soon closed, necessitating a series of heart-stopping moves left to the very edge of the slab poised above a gigantic overhanging wall. For the grade, a remarkable position, very exposed considering this was just a single pitch route! Very delicate climbing up the edge led to another flake which allows you to move back right to the lower-off. Le Bonheur, the similarly graded route up the centre of the same slab, goes more easily up to the central flake crack. This is quite positive until it closes up, then a very hard move up the blank slab gains the continuation of the line: a little more disjointed that Signe Ascendant but another three-star classic. Vic then led Les Mot Pour le Dire further right. This is a shorter route, 20m+, which takes a sharp rib initially before a sequence of superb technical moves up an inclined wall, quite reasonable but sustained and thought-provoking up tiny stalactites and pockets. The quality of the hard, grey limestone was remarkable: immaculate climbing, as was the superb groove of La Lyceene to the right. Tufa pillars and flowstone features: despite the 6a grade, this seemed one of the easier routes on the crag. By now the sun was well and truly on the face, and it was getting pretty uncomfortable. We made our way through the trees to the far end of the crag, and both led Tango Passion, an easier and shorter route up three distinct walls, then Peut-etre as a suitable climax to the trip. After an initial wall, this takes a steep and very technical wall on tiny flake holds and small pockets. Probably the hardest sequence of the trip, 6a+, around UK E2 we thought, coinciding with the hottest weather: it was like inching up a vertical frying pan. I had to steady myself whilst clipping the bolts sadly, partly as a result of the extreme humidity, but we both made the lead before retreating to the medieval alleyways of the village and, later, a well earned dip in the Med before our flight home.
Routes: De Bouche a Oreille (f5:led), Signe Ascendant (f5+:led), Le Bonheur Est Dans le Pre (f5+:sec), Les Mots Pour le Dire (f5+:sec), La Lyceene (f6a:sec), Tango Passion (f5:led), Peut-etre (f6a+:led)
Just another Provencal venue with beautiful views in every direction, a tranquil ambience, and an abundance of three-star classic climbs up a wonderland of perfect sculpted limestone features. We liked it! A tortuous road leads from La Turbie round the edge of Monaco's grotesque excess and up into another world. Gorbio is a perfect 'village perche', protected from tourists by its awkward location. We parked above the village and walked into the crag through small allotments and copses. The crag is one of many at the head of this typical Provencal limestone valley - and is wonderfully tranquil. We had a few hours before the sun hit the face, so got to work immediately. The crag is characterised by a series of slabby ramplines that head diagonally leftwards and break the other theme of unrelenting steepness. The limestone features are just beautiful and lend themselves to stunning climbing up these lines of weakness. De Bouche a Oreille was a perfect example: it took a sort of 'tube' of waterworn limestone with a steep wall plunging away to the left and another curving above the ramp to the right. It gave a remarkably aesthetic climb, on beautiful cream and grey shaded limestone, using little pockets and tiny pinched holds to make progress up the slab. A wonderful start, but eclipsed by the massive Signe Ascendant to its right, which gave a monster 35m+ E1 pitch up another ramp line. This started more steeply, up a very awkward vertical groove which gives access to the main slab. This gave quite extraordinary climbing: tiny edges led to a flake crack which soon closed, necessitating a series of heart-stopping moves left to the very edge of the slab poised above a gigantic overhanging wall. For the grade, a remarkable position, very exposed considering this was just a single pitch route! Very delicate climbing up the edge led to another flake which allows you to move back right to the lower-off. Le Bonheur, the similarly graded route up the centre of the same slab, goes more easily up to the central flake crack. This is quite positive until it closes up, then a very hard move up the blank slab gains the continuation of the line: a little more disjointed that Signe Ascendant but another three-star classic. Vic then led Les Mot Pour le Dire further right. This is a shorter route, 20m+, which takes a sharp rib initially before a sequence of superb technical moves up an inclined wall, quite reasonable but sustained and thought-provoking up tiny stalactites and pockets. The quality of the hard, grey limestone was remarkable: immaculate climbing, as was the superb groove of La Lyceene to the right. Tufa pillars and flowstone features: despite the 6a grade, this seemed one of the easier routes on the crag. By now the sun was well and truly on the face, and it was getting pretty uncomfortable. We made our way through the trees to the far end of the crag, and both led Tango Passion, an easier and shorter route up three distinct walls, then Peut-etre as a suitable climax to the trip. After an initial wall, this takes a steep and very technical wall on tiny flake holds and small pockets. Probably the hardest sequence of the trip, 6a+, around UK E2 we thought, coinciding with the hottest weather: it was like inching up a vertical frying pan. I had to steady myself whilst clipping the bolts sadly, partly as a result of the extreme humidity, but we both made the lead before retreating to the medieval alleyways of the village and, later, a well earned dip in the Med before our flight home.
Sunday, September 08, 2013
La Turbie climbing
Crag: La Dalle a l'Oiseau, La Turbie, Monaco
Routes: La San Nom (f4+:led), Le Rappel (f4+:sec), La Tribu de Chantal (f5:sec), Le Diedre des Limaces (f4+:sec), Plien la Vue Directe (f5:sec), La Radine (f6a:led), Combien ca Coute? (f5:sec), UNR (f4:sec), L'Envolee de Jeanine (f5:sec), Diedre de la Republique (f5+:sec), La Dextre (f5:led)
After a night in the centre of Cuneo, I was desperate to salvage something from the trip after missing out on the main objective yesterday. However, prospects looked bleak as it started to rain in the main piazza of Cuneo as we left the hotel. This became absolutely torrential as we crossed into France after the Tende tunnel, so we were forced to abandon our designs on the granite crags above St Dalmas and Sospel. Instead, we drove all the way to La Turbie above Monaco in a remarkable deluge which luckily stopped as we arrived at the car park poised above Monaco's stadium. After walking down the zigzags that lead to La Dalle a l'Oiseau, just one of the many crags that litter the hillside above Monaco, the sun came out and the rock was miraculously bone dry. Still desperate to salvage the trip, I went straight for the classic line of the crag: the soaring groove line of La San Nom, which despite its French grade gives a superb 35m long British VS pitch. Pocketed slabs give way to the main groove, which has two steeper sections taken on big holds, then some easy bridging, before a steep crux move just before the top to gain a final juggy wall. A tremendous pitch, neatly sustained at a fairly gentle standard - but interesting throughout. Le Rappel is another long pitch up superbly positive pockets and flakes, while La Tribu de Chantal is a little harder - we did the top half, which finishes up an awkward prow via some tricky moves. Vic then led the obvious corner/diedre to the left, which gives some polished bridging and is rather overshadowed by the arete to its left taken by the superb Plien la Vue Directe. This is a fantastic, photogenic line - quite elegant but rather polished especially higher up. Easy slabs lead to a small platform, then delicate moves up the crest of the vertical arete with stunning views out over Cap Ferrat to distant Esterel. The sun was now warming things up quite dramatically, and I was feeling reasonably strong (by my pathetic standards) so upped the grade with a lead of La Radine on the right of the crag. This gave sustained and excellent 6a climbing, quite technical up a steep series of positive but tiny edges to gain a pocket. This just took two fingers, and a steep pull gained bigger holds and a short easy slab. A final groove led to the top: great stuff and another satisfying, clean lead, arguably British E2. The other routes up this wall were lengthy pitches in a similar vein but much easier (L'Envolee took the crack separating the slab with the steeper walls to the left). Vic then led another obvious classic corner line, the polished Diedre de la Republique, with tricky bridging and a surprisingly strenuous and awkward crux right at the top. We were tiring after hundreds of metres of steep and sustained climbing, but I wanted one more lead so went for the unheralded but excellent La Dextre. This looked scrappy from below, but actually gave a very varied and long pitch, up steep pocketed limestone walls to gain a layback before another wall led to the top. Ran back up the steep zigzags to the car by way of hopelessly inadequate training for next Saturday's Peris Horseshoe race!
Routes: La San Nom (f4+:led), Le Rappel (f4+:sec), La Tribu de Chantal (f5:sec), Le Diedre des Limaces (f4+:sec), Plien la Vue Directe (f5:sec), La Radine (f6a:led), Combien ca Coute? (f5:sec), UNR (f4:sec), L'Envolee de Jeanine (f5:sec), Diedre de la Republique (f5+:sec), La Dextre (f5:led)
After a night in the centre of Cuneo, I was desperate to salvage something from the trip after missing out on the main objective yesterday. However, prospects looked bleak as it started to rain in the main piazza of Cuneo as we left the hotel. This became absolutely torrential as we crossed into France after the Tende tunnel, so we were forced to abandon our designs on the granite crags above St Dalmas and Sospel. Instead, we drove all the way to La Turbie above Monaco in a remarkable deluge which luckily stopped as we arrived at the car park poised above Monaco's stadium. After walking down the zigzags that lead to La Dalle a l'Oiseau, just one of the many crags that litter the hillside above Monaco, the sun came out and the rock was miraculously bone dry. Still desperate to salvage the trip, I went straight for the classic line of the crag: the soaring groove line of La San Nom, which despite its French grade gives a superb 35m long British VS pitch. Pocketed slabs give way to the main groove, which has two steeper sections taken on big holds, then some easy bridging, before a steep crux move just before the top to gain a final juggy wall. A tremendous pitch, neatly sustained at a fairly gentle standard - but interesting throughout. Le Rappel is another long pitch up superbly positive pockets and flakes, while La Tribu de Chantal is a little harder - we did the top half, which finishes up an awkward prow via some tricky moves. Vic then led the obvious corner/diedre to the left, which gives some polished bridging and is rather overshadowed by the arete to its left taken by the superb Plien la Vue Directe. This is a fantastic, photogenic line - quite elegant but rather polished especially higher up. Easy slabs lead to a small platform, then delicate moves up the crest of the vertical arete with stunning views out over Cap Ferrat to distant Esterel. The sun was now warming things up quite dramatically, and I was feeling reasonably strong (by my pathetic standards) so upped the grade with a lead of La Radine on the right of the crag. This gave sustained and excellent 6a climbing, quite technical up a steep series of positive but tiny edges to gain a pocket. This just took two fingers, and a steep pull gained bigger holds and a short easy slab. A final groove led to the top: great stuff and another satisfying, clean lead, arguably British E2. The other routes up this wall were lengthy pitches in a similar vein but much easier (L'Envolee took the crack separating the slab with the steeper walls to the left). Vic then led another obvious classic corner line, the polished Diedre de la Republique, with tricky bridging and a surprisingly strenuous and awkward crux right at the top. We were tiring after hundreds of metres of steep and sustained climbing, but I wanted one more lead so went for the unheralded but excellent La Dextre. This looked scrappy from below, but actually gave a very varied and long pitch, up steep pocketed limestone walls to gain a layback before another wall led to the top. Ran back up the steep zigzags to the car by way of hopelessly inadequate training for next Saturday's Peris Horseshoe race!
Saturday, September 07, 2013
Viso Mozzo
Peak: Viso Mozzo (3019m/9,904ft)
Area: Cottian Alps, Piemonte, Italy
This peak is completely overshadowed by Monte Viso and was a very disappointing consolation prize for me after abandoning the main climb. The day had started encouragingly after a 4am breakfast and an efficient start under clear starlit skies. All very atmospheric, particularly as we reached the chains and via ferrata section that leads up a series of steep ridges to gain Passo Sangatte. As the first glimmers of light allowed us to see the onward route, the mist came down around the upper cwm. Worse, I was suffering from a nasty stomach bug and had managed very little sleep. After some half-hearted slogging up the base of the cwm I decided to call it a day and - after months of planning - retreated back down the chains to the hut, after which I climbed up Viso Mozzo in disconsolate mood. I did, however, have the bonus of some stunning photographic scenes as the mist cleared on a number of occasions. Spectacular views up mist-draped rock walls, thousands of feet high, along with several brockenspectres as the sun backlit my shadow on the clouds below. I sauntered down to Pian del Rei where I walked up the neighbouring valleys and bathed in the source of the Po as I waited for Vic.
Area: Cottian Alps, Piemonte, Italy
This peak is completely overshadowed by Monte Viso and was a very disappointing consolation prize for me after abandoning the main climb. The day had started encouragingly after a 4am breakfast and an efficient start under clear starlit skies. All very atmospheric, particularly as we reached the chains and via ferrata section that leads up a series of steep ridges to gain Passo Sangatte. As the first glimmers of light allowed us to see the onward route, the mist came down around the upper cwm. Worse, I was suffering from a nasty stomach bug and had managed very little sleep. After some half-hearted slogging up the base of the cwm I decided to call it a day and - after months of planning - retreated back down the chains to the hut, after which I climbed up Viso Mozzo in disconsolate mood. I did, however, have the bonus of some stunning photographic scenes as the mist cleared on a number of occasions. Spectacular views up mist-draped rock walls, thousands of feet high, along with several brockenspectres as the sun backlit my shadow on the clouds below. I sauntered down to Pian del Rei where I walked up the neighbouring valleys and bathed in the source of the Po as I waited for Vic.
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