Peaks: Mont Vinaigre
Area: Esterel, Provence
This was the second long run I'd done during our week in the Esterel. I've run up Mont Vinaigre from the caravan before (seven years ago, incredibly). It is not that far as the crow flies, although it looks distant from the swimming pool, but it is problematised by the lack of a simple approach. Tracks lead everywhere in the Esterel, and I have a reasonable knowledge of them, but there is no simple way of approaching Vinaigre from the south. On Wednesday, I had a mini-epic after taking the long contouring path above the Vallon Olivier attempting to join the GR51 but eventually running out of time. I then took several different paths on the western slopes of Malpey before dropping down to an untracked side valley. This was temporarily appalling, crashing through the maquis and boulders to eventually gain the dry stream bed at the valley bottom. Scratched and bruised, the stream bed was better but still blocked with fallen trees and boulders at various points: all a reminder of how wild the Esterel is in some corners. Eventually the side valley emerged in the main N-S (broadly) valley and I made good progress back to the site. Today, I made a more concerted effort to get the navigation right. It was another 6am start, beautiful high pink clouds well before the sunrise: wonderful ambience as ever, nobody around. I went straight for Carrefour Castelli, down to the bridge, then the steep climb to the derelict Maison Forestiere which is right in the centre of the range, perhaps the most remote spot of all. From here, a superb path contours the hillside then heads due north for Mont Vinaigre: superb running in the early morning. It emerges on the Route des Cols, forcing you onto a long detour west along the metalled road to finally pick up the GR51 which leads more steeply to the top. Surprisingly lengthy: 100 minutes or so from the caravan. Views were stupendous, the best I have ever had in scores of visits to Esterel summits. Cloud was gradually clearing from the valleys, lending superb foreground views with distant summits poking through. Wonderful, although bizarrely I had to share the summit with a four-piece female choir singing soft spiritual tunes as the sun rose. I fear I ruined their special moment, dripping with sweat and downing two cereal bars in quick succession. My plan was to continue along the GR51, but I felt too tired, so went back a similar way via a few short variations. Back in time for the bakery opening and the usual breakfast.
Friday, July 29, 2016
Thursday, July 28, 2016
Dramont climbing
Crag: Cap Dramont, Esterel
Routes: Slab Route 1 (f3+:sol), Slab Route 2 (f3+:sol), Slab Route 3 (f3+:sol), Slab Route 4 (f3+:sol)
Just a short play around on the easy slab above the sea that I have enjoyed on previous occasions. It is a family venue really, but works well in conjunction with bouldering on the steeper side and the combination of bouldering and coasteering that is possible in some of the steeper calanques closer to Tiki beach.
Routes: Slab Route 1 (f3+:sol), Slab Route 2 (f3+:sol), Slab Route 3 (f3+:sol), Slab Route 4 (f3+:sol)
Just a short play around on the easy slab above the sea that I have enjoyed on previous occasions. It is a family venue really, but works well in conjunction with bouldering on the steeper side and the combination of bouldering and coasteering that is possible in some of the steeper calanques closer to Tiki beach.
Castelli mountain bike loop
MTB route: Perthus/Castelli loop (30k/800m)
Area: Esterel
I've wanted to do some proper mountain biking in the Esterel for years. This wasn't really that, but it was at least a brief taster. The campsite has purchased decent bikes for hire, with good suspension, so we all hired them and left the site around 9.30. We did a version of my favourite 'Perthus' running route (done as a fartlek loop on Sunday) but tagged on a few extra sections to expand on the route we did last time we hired bikes four years ago when the children were far smaller! They still found it hard going in the heat though. I had an embarrassing crash almost immediately, testing the breaks on an off road section! Lost some motor function in my thumb for a week as a result. Steady climbing past Roussiveau, then a break at the shady Gorge du Perthus. From the Col de Mistral, we headed off-road for a bit, towards the Pic de l'Ours, but Kate didn't enjoy it much. So we headed back down via the viewpoint above the Col de Belle Barbe: this looks out over the Ecureille valley and involved another off-road section. Back via the cycle path, after which I went on a long extension down to the Carrefour Castelli, all off road, then along the Castelli piste back to Roussiveau and then back to the campsite. There is a very long marked MTB circuit of the Esterel: one for the next visit.
Area: Esterel
I've wanted to do some proper mountain biking in the Esterel for years. This wasn't really that, but it was at least a brief taster. The campsite has purchased decent bikes for hire, with good suspension, so we all hired them and left the site around 9.30. We did a version of my favourite 'Perthus' running route (done as a fartlek loop on Sunday) but tagged on a few extra sections to expand on the route we did last time we hired bikes four years ago when the children were far smaller! They still found it hard going in the heat though. I had an embarrassing crash almost immediately, testing the breaks on an off road section! Lost some motor function in my thumb for a week as a result. Steady climbing past Roussiveau, then a break at the shady Gorge du Perthus. From the Col de Mistral, we headed off-road for a bit, towards the Pic de l'Ours, but Kate didn't enjoy it much. So we headed back down via the viewpoint above the Col de Belle Barbe: this looks out over the Ecureille valley and involved another off-road section. Back via the cycle path, after which I went on a long extension down to the Carrefour Castelli, all off road, then along the Castelli piste back to Roussiveau and then back to the campsite. There is a very long marked MTB circuit of the Esterel: one for the next visit.
Friday, July 22, 2016
Pic de Bena
Peaks: Pic de Bena (1794m)
Area: Eastern Pyrenees, France
My luck ran out this morning, with bad weather sweeping in to the Pyrenees. My window for action was even shorter than usual, as we were planning to leave for the long drive to Montpellier at 9.30am! But, I hoped to take in some of the 'Scottish-style' peaks above Puymorens first and got up at first light to do just that. Driving up the valley, however, it was immediately apparent that the weather had turned: black clouds with a low base, and a strong wind. I decided that the only option was a much lower peak, and consulted the map to find an ideal option just above our 'home' border village of Enveitg. A tiny lane led up to a beautiful high plateau above the Cerdagne, dotted with orange granite boulders, part of the same terrain we had enjoyed on our family outing yesterday. Pic de Bena is quite distinctive from the plateau: like a volcanic cone. On closer inspection, however, it is more of a long spur thrown down from the higher peaks further north like Pic Pedra. I just went for the main Tour de Carlit path which curves to the east around Pic de Bena from Mas Franca. I was a bit tired after recent exertions, but it was a delightful gentle run and an excellent choice in the prevailing weather. Dark clouds remained on the horizon, but here all was calm with a spectacular dawn sunburst emerging from the clouds. Puigmal and the border peaks beyond the wide Cerdagne valley were still clear. I emerged at a meadow with more of those wonderful boulders (this area has a lifetime of options for the keen boulderer, with rock of the highest quality). I ploughed up to the highpoint, where I was immediately attacked by red flying ants: hundreds of them. This sent me scurrying back to the main path, where I ran up to the Devesa de Bena before the return trip back to the plateau. Back at the gite by 9am, after which we drove to Montpellier via a rainy Conflent, followed by a sunny picnic as we left the mountains at Prades and the weather improved dramatically.
Area: Eastern Pyrenees, France
My luck ran out this morning, with bad weather sweeping in to the Pyrenees. My window for action was even shorter than usual, as we were planning to leave for the long drive to Montpellier at 9.30am! But, I hoped to take in some of the 'Scottish-style' peaks above Puymorens first and got up at first light to do just that. Driving up the valley, however, it was immediately apparent that the weather had turned: black clouds with a low base, and a strong wind. I decided that the only option was a much lower peak, and consulted the map to find an ideal option just above our 'home' border village of Enveitg. A tiny lane led up to a beautiful high plateau above the Cerdagne, dotted with orange granite boulders, part of the same terrain we had enjoyed on our family outing yesterday. Pic de Bena is quite distinctive from the plateau: like a volcanic cone. On closer inspection, however, it is more of a long spur thrown down from the higher peaks further north like Pic Pedra. I just went for the main Tour de Carlit path which curves to the east around Pic de Bena from Mas Franca. I was a bit tired after recent exertions, but it was a delightful gentle run and an excellent choice in the prevailing weather. Dark clouds remained on the horizon, but here all was calm with a spectacular dawn sunburst emerging from the clouds. Puigmal and the border peaks beyond the wide Cerdagne valley were still clear. I emerged at a meadow with more of those wonderful boulders (this area has a lifetime of options for the keen boulderer, with rock of the highest quality). I ploughed up to the highpoint, where I was immediately attacked by red flying ants: hundreds of them. This sent me scurrying back to the main path, where I ran up to the Devesa de Bena before the return trip back to the plateau. Back at the gite by 9am, after which we drove to Montpellier via a rainy Conflent, followed by a sunny picnic as we left the mountains at Prades and the weather improved dramatically.
Thursday, July 21, 2016
Pic Carlit
Peaks: Pic Carlit (2921m)
Area: Eastern Pyrenees, France
Back in the Pyrenees for the first time since 1997, so it was nice to be able to get up this famous peak, probably the most notable summit in the gentler eastern part of the range. I still have fond memories of trips to the central part of the Pyrenees in 1997 and 1993, when we climbed lots of the big summits like Posets, Balaitous, Vignemale, Pic du Midi, Pic d'Arriel. The landscape further east is less dramatic but still typically Pyrenean with the usual exquisite blend of water, wood and mountain. We had driven over the Col de Puymorens to Andorra yesterday, and it was only 20 minutes or so from our gite in Enveitg so it seemed the obvious place to start. I didn't realise that Carlit is a considerably tougher undertaking from this side (compared to the east). It made for a long, but mainly runnable outing. The forecast was for rain later, so my usual early start seemed even more prudent than normal. The route is not easy to follow from this side, clearly much less popular, and requires the linkage of a few different paths. I started from Font Viva in the Lanos Valley, following a steep path along a stream to the beautiful Estany (lake) de Font Viva. I missed the tiny path up the hill that should have gained the main GR7 route to the Lanos lake, however. This was understandable, as it was tiny and unmarked, an illustration of how unconventional this route up Carlit is. Instead, I had to undertake an initially desperate slog up steep, wet slopes of rock and deep grass due north from Font Viva. A tiring start, although once I emerged on the GR7 all was forgiven. The path forms part of the Tour du Carlit traverse and gave a memorable level run all the way to the Estany de Lanos, poised hundreds of metres above the valley with views across to Coll Roig. The sun appeared behind Carlit and onward prospects looked good: magnificent running in a superb environment. The onward route was complex, but I got it right, north-east up an initially confusing series of beautiful miniature valleys with typical Pyrenean scenery of little pine copses and waterfalls. These led to isolated Estany dels Forats. From here, the final climb up Carlit is bleakly obvious: it takes a steep and shattered broad couloir to the summit. In fact, although it was predictably hard it gave a break from running and I found a more solid spiky rib left of the gully which gave good scrambling at around II+. Eventually I was forced back into the gully, and took its shifting screes towards a short final scramble round the top of a gully to the summit ridge. More short-lived scrambling led to the top and great views east over the lakes that make up the more usual ascent route. It took two hours to get up from Font Viva despite running most of it, an illustration of the length of the route, plus my mistake (and fatigue!). A strong wind blew, and some cloud passed over but the summit remained clear. It was far from the perfect clarity earlier in the week, but still not bad at all. In fact, contrary to the forecast, the weather improved as I descended to give some superbly photogenic conditions. The little valleys formed an idyllic foreground to views of Pic Pedros and Puig de Coma d'Or. I made good time on the descent and thoroughly enjoyed it. I was hungry by the time we had lunch in the weird enclave of Llivia, then a second picnic above Targassone, in a superb wild flower meadow looking down on the Cerdagne. A family walk up the Val d'Angoustrina finished me off.
Area: Eastern Pyrenees, France
Back in the Pyrenees for the first time since 1997, so it was nice to be able to get up this famous peak, probably the most notable summit in the gentler eastern part of the range. I still have fond memories of trips to the central part of the Pyrenees in 1997 and 1993, when we climbed lots of the big summits like Posets, Balaitous, Vignemale, Pic du Midi, Pic d'Arriel. The landscape further east is less dramatic but still typically Pyrenean with the usual exquisite blend of water, wood and mountain. We had driven over the Col de Puymorens to Andorra yesterday, and it was only 20 minutes or so from our gite in Enveitg so it seemed the obvious place to start. I didn't realise that Carlit is a considerably tougher undertaking from this side (compared to the east). It made for a long, but mainly runnable outing. The forecast was for rain later, so my usual early start seemed even more prudent than normal. The route is not easy to follow from this side, clearly much less popular, and requires the linkage of a few different paths. I started from Font Viva in the Lanos Valley, following a steep path along a stream to the beautiful Estany (lake) de Font Viva. I missed the tiny path up the hill that should have gained the main GR7 route to the Lanos lake, however. This was understandable, as it was tiny and unmarked, an illustration of how unconventional this route up Carlit is. Instead, I had to undertake an initially desperate slog up steep, wet slopes of rock and deep grass due north from Font Viva. A tiring start, although once I emerged on the GR7 all was forgiven. The path forms part of the Tour du Carlit traverse and gave a memorable level run all the way to the Estany de Lanos, poised hundreds of metres above the valley with views across to Coll Roig. The sun appeared behind Carlit and onward prospects looked good: magnificent running in a superb environment. The onward route was complex, but I got it right, north-east up an initially confusing series of beautiful miniature valleys with typical Pyrenean scenery of little pine copses and waterfalls. These led to isolated Estany dels Forats. From here, the final climb up Carlit is bleakly obvious: it takes a steep and shattered broad couloir to the summit. In fact, although it was predictably hard it gave a break from running and I found a more solid spiky rib left of the gully which gave good scrambling at around II+. Eventually I was forced back into the gully, and took its shifting screes towards a short final scramble round the top of a gully to the summit ridge. More short-lived scrambling led to the top and great views east over the lakes that make up the more usual ascent route. It took two hours to get up from Font Viva despite running most of it, an illustration of the length of the route, plus my mistake (and fatigue!). A strong wind blew, and some cloud passed over but the summit remained clear. It was far from the perfect clarity earlier in the week, but still not bad at all. In fact, contrary to the forecast, the weather improved as I descended to give some superbly photogenic conditions. The little valleys formed an idyllic foreground to views of Pic Pedros and Puig de Coma d'Or. I made good time on the descent and thoroughly enjoyed it. I was hungry by the time we had lunch in the weird enclave of Llivia, then a second picnic above Targassone, in a superb wild flower meadow looking down on the Cerdagne. A family walk up the Val d'Angoustrina finished me off.
Wednesday, July 20, 2016
Gallina Pelada
Peaks: Cap de Gallina Pelada (2327m)
Area: Serra d'Ensija, Catalonia
This is the highpoint of the range of rounded green hills that forms the western wall of the valley enclosing Saldes and our campsite. It gave a perfect quick outing before we left the Cadi-Moixero park (with some regret in my case!). A small road winds up the lower slopes of the Serra d'Ensija from the Col de Trappa above Saldes, and I set off running from the road just below Font Freda. Scented pine forests lead to a dry riverbed or storm channel. Then steep scree eventually gains beautiful green meadows with scattered dwarf pine trees (Les Planelles). This landscape characterises the Serra d'Ensija: and Pedraforca is an ever-present object across the valley. The meadows were runnable, although I went much too far left initially. This was no problem though, as it was all delightful, and I eventually gained a giant limestone plateau with sinkholes and rolling low hills. Superb running led to the Refugi Delgado Ubeda, with Gallina Pelada above. In some ways the terrain was reminiscent of the Clwydians, certainly just as runnable and I made good progress to gain the broad ridge up to the summit. The light was very different to yesterday. Gone was the crystal clear clarity, to be replaced by a beautiful soft orange glow: sunny but with a very thin layer of cloud. Distant views were hazy, but the Cadi range and Pedraforca were clear, and the Serra d'Ensija close at hand was bathed in that soft sunshine. It was still very early, so I had a bit of cheese and chorizo on the summit before pelting down in a superb 35 minute downhill blast.
Area: Serra d'Ensija, Catalonia
This is the highpoint of the range of rounded green hills that forms the western wall of the valley enclosing Saldes and our campsite. It gave a perfect quick outing before we left the Cadi-Moixero park (with some regret in my case!). A small road winds up the lower slopes of the Serra d'Ensija from the Col de Trappa above Saldes, and I set off running from the road just below Font Freda. Scented pine forests lead to a dry riverbed or storm channel. Then steep scree eventually gains beautiful green meadows with scattered dwarf pine trees (Les Planelles). This landscape characterises the Serra d'Ensija: and Pedraforca is an ever-present object across the valley. The meadows were runnable, although I went much too far left initially. This was no problem though, as it was all delightful, and I eventually gained a giant limestone plateau with sinkholes and rolling low hills. Superb running led to the Refugi Delgado Ubeda, with Gallina Pelada above. In some ways the terrain was reminiscent of the Clwydians, certainly just as runnable and I made good progress to gain the broad ridge up to the summit. The light was very different to yesterday. Gone was the crystal clear clarity, to be replaced by a beautiful soft orange glow: sunny but with a very thin layer of cloud. Distant views were hazy, but the Cadi range and Pedraforca were clear, and the Serra d'Ensija close at hand was bathed in that soft sunshine. It was still very early, so I had a bit of cheese and chorizo on the summit before pelting down in a superb 35 minute downhill blast.
Tuesday, July 19, 2016
Pedraforca
Peaks: Pedraforca Cima Nord (2438m), Pedraforca Pollego Superior (2507m)
Routes: Verdet (uII)
Area: Cadi-Moixero, Catalonia
Symbol of the Catalan people, Pedraforca is a superb mountain, truly distinctive with its twin-pronged summit and notable isolation. Arriving in the Cadi-Moixero national park, deep in the Catalan interior, is a magical experience. The area is beautiful and remarkably peaceful, particularly after a day in Barcelona (after flying in late on Sunday). Our campsite, the Mirador del Pedraforca, paid homage to the peak: a stupendous view towards it from our chalet and the swimming pool (while cooling off in the pool with the kids I realised that its double summit did remind me of something else: Pic du Midi d'Ossau in the central Pyrenees, although I did that in 1993 so memory is fading!). The mountain was, in short, essential - so I left the chalet before dawn next day with a plan to run the classic circuit and get back in time for breakfast and a family tour of the area. Although it took a while to find the right road above Saldes, once I did I made rapid progress up to the Lluis Estephan refuge, then up good but steep paths which wind through the trees and skirt some big limestone walls until the open terrain below the Col de Verdet is reached. The weather was stunning: deep blue cloudless skies and perfect clarity of light. Views over the Cadi range and across to the Serra d'Ensija were fabulous. I overtook a trio of Catalan lads from Tarragona at the start of the scrambling. This is easy (no more than grade II) but very enjoyable, up a slabby and very broad couloir/gully to a steepening with a couple of fixed ropes. This gains a mini col below the north peak. From here, a short descent over the northern slopes of the peak (above Gosol) allows for more excellent scrambling up slabs and short chimneys (II) with good views of the more dramatic rock walls above Saldes. The actual summit (Pollego Superior) is surprisingly large, with spectacular views due to the clarity of light - Montserrat above Barcelona was clearly visible above Gallina Pellada on the horizon. Close at hand, the soft green ranges of the Bergueda contrasted with the towering limestone walls around Pedraforca. I walked along the narrow ridge towards the Caldera for a bit before dropping down easily to L'Enforcadura. This is the enormous deep col between the two peaks, and allows for a great traverse. You really wouldn't want to come up via this scree covered couloir, known as the Tartera del Pedraforca: it's bad enough in descent, with loose scree, arduous going with little grip left on my old trail shoes and numerous slips, cutting my hand in two places. Once the treeline is reached, the going is far easier, with good running contouring the slopes back to the refuge surprisingly quickly. I nibbled a bit of manchego and chorizo for an appropriate breakfast, then scurried back down to the car and main breakfast back at the campsite. Less than 2:30 for the full traverse.
Routes: Verdet (uII)
Area: Cadi-Moixero, Catalonia
Symbol of the Catalan people, Pedraforca is a superb mountain, truly distinctive with its twin-pronged summit and notable isolation. Arriving in the Cadi-Moixero national park, deep in the Catalan interior, is a magical experience. The area is beautiful and remarkably peaceful, particularly after a day in Barcelona (after flying in late on Sunday). Our campsite, the Mirador del Pedraforca, paid homage to the peak: a stupendous view towards it from our chalet and the swimming pool (while cooling off in the pool with the kids I realised that its double summit did remind me of something else: Pic du Midi d'Ossau in the central Pyrenees, although I did that in 1993 so memory is fading!). The mountain was, in short, essential - so I left the chalet before dawn next day with a plan to run the classic circuit and get back in time for breakfast and a family tour of the area. Although it took a while to find the right road above Saldes, once I did I made rapid progress up to the Lluis Estephan refuge, then up good but steep paths which wind through the trees and skirt some big limestone walls until the open terrain below the Col de Verdet is reached. The weather was stunning: deep blue cloudless skies and perfect clarity of light. Views over the Cadi range and across to the Serra d'Ensija were fabulous. I overtook a trio of Catalan lads from Tarragona at the start of the scrambling. This is easy (no more than grade II) but very enjoyable, up a slabby and very broad couloir/gully to a steepening with a couple of fixed ropes. This gains a mini col below the north peak. From here, a short descent over the northern slopes of the peak (above Gosol) allows for more excellent scrambling up slabs and short chimneys (II) with good views of the more dramatic rock walls above Saldes. The actual summit (Pollego Superior) is surprisingly large, with spectacular views due to the clarity of light - Montserrat above Barcelona was clearly visible above Gallina Pellada on the horizon. Close at hand, the soft green ranges of the Bergueda contrasted with the towering limestone walls around Pedraforca. I walked along the narrow ridge towards the Caldera for a bit before dropping down easily to L'Enforcadura. This is the enormous deep col between the two peaks, and allows for a great traverse. You really wouldn't want to come up via this scree covered couloir, known as the Tartera del Pedraforca: it's bad enough in descent, with loose scree, arduous going with little grip left on my old trail shoes and numerous slips, cutting my hand in two places. Once the treeline is reached, the going is far easier, with good running contouring the slopes back to the refuge surprisingly quickly. I nibbled a bit of manchego and chorizo for an appropriate breakfast, then scurried back down to the car and main breakfast back at the campsite. Less than 2:30 for the full traverse.
Wednesday, July 13, 2016
The Druid fell race
Race: Druid fell race (5m/1100ft)
Time/Position: 38.01 (13th from 107)
Regretted my decision to do this almost immediately - even the first small climb from Llanferres was a bit of a nightmare. Despite the slowness of my journey round Wasdale on Saturday, I was still pretty drained after such a long outing, with significant quad damage. The first half of the race to the top of Foel Fenlli was pretty awful, after which I perked up very slightly but still suffered throughout. I recorded by far my worse ever result on this race, which I must have done 7 or 8 times and is usually one of my favourites.
Time/Position: 38.01 (13th from 107)
Regretted my decision to do this almost immediately - even the first small climb from Llanferres was a bit of a nightmare. Despite the slowness of my journey round Wasdale on Saturday, I was still pretty drained after such a long outing, with significant quad damage. The first half of the race to the top of Foel Fenlli was pretty awful, after which I perked up very slightly but still suffered throughout. I recorded by far my worse ever result on this race, which I must have done 7 or 8 times and is usually one of my favourites.
Saturday, July 09, 2016
Wasdale Horseshoe
Race: Wasdale Horseshoe fell race (36k/9022ft/AL)
Peaks: Illgill Head (609m), Whin Rigg (635m), Seatallan (692m), Scoat Fell (841m), Pillar (892m), Great Gable (899m), Scafell Pike (978m)
Time/Position: 6.08 (65th from 130)
This is often considered to be the hardest fell race in the UK. Having done most of the other contenders I am inclined to agree, although it is all relative, particularly as I am abjectly unsuited to long fell races and have rarely tried to properly race them: preferring instead to jog round and enjoy them in 'tourist' mode. Today was no exception. I have very little climbing mileage in my legs, and not much distance, so it was something of a relief to get a poor forecast which made it acceptable to go into survival plod mode. Perfect conditions would have been very frustrating! After an evening meal at the Inn, heavy rain during the night continued to hammer our tents through the morning and was obviously set in for the day. In these circumstances, I pack a lot of kit, and I had a fairly heavy sac as the race set off for Illgill Head along the path Vic and I took last year for our long Lingmell Dash warm-up. This is a relatively short climb, although quite steep, and our small team of Buckley Runners stuck together for it: felt like Tattenhall Tough Team for a bit! A nice relaxed run along the ridge, wind not too bad, to Whin Rigg in around 45 minutes. Took the steep descent very easily, and we even had a brief view of Wastwater as we descended to Woodhow at the far end of the lake. Running along the bottom of the valley through woods and fields to Greendale was delightful: it even stopped raining for a bit. Then the great Joss Naylor handed me a drink before the next climb up Greendale Gill. The rain began in earnest again on the steep sides of the gill: the river in semi-spate as we crossed to gain the unpleasant slog up featureless terrain to the top of Seatallan. One of the toughest climbs of the day: wet and cold with the knowledge that the race had hardly even started. From Seatallan, the trickiest navigation of the route starts. Initially a well defined spur leads to the Pots of Ashness. Then we took a contouring line towards Haycock. I kept Nether Beck as a handrail, map and compass out throughout, and we emerged eventually on the main ridge over to Scoat Fell. We were now much higher, and the weather got correspondingly worse. Indeed, the section over Wind Gap to Pillar, exposed (as its name suggests) to the prevailing south-westerlies was probably the worst part of the race weather-wise. I was getting cold, and glad of my cautious tactics: took five minutes at the Pillar summit cairn to put my extra coat and trousers on as the wind howled overhead. Felt much better afterwards, but was now well behind the group I had been running with and on my own for the next section along the ridge to Looking Stead and the Black Sail Pass. Fortunately, I knew the rest of the route slightly (although I always lack the local knowledge I have for North Wales). Below Kirkfell, I took the smaller contouring path above Ennerdale and was joined by several other runners. This was mercifully sheltered out of the wind, but boggy. From the col at Beck Head, a steep climb leads to the top of Great Gable: tough. I fell on the descent, bashing my knee. This was painful and took a while to run off. Ferocious gusts as we got close to Sty Head, then bonking slightly as the intricate and lengthy route to distant Esk Hause took longer than anticipated. I was running out of food, but promised myself a snack to start the final climb up the Pike. Completely alone again for this: wild weather. From the summit of Scafell Pike (only the third time I've ever been up here!) I had some concerns about finding the Lingmell col as the terrain here is very confusing with paths in all directions. I took a direct bearing but ended up following another runner down the main Brown Tongue path. This cuts back towards the Lingmell Col but we went too far north, ending up above Piers Gill. An old wall meant it was easy to work out where we were, but it all meant an extra climb back over the col to pick up the path down to Lingmell nose: I lost 10-20 places and 15-20 minutes as a result of this small error. I knew the final descent from last year's Lingmell Dash British Championship race. It is very steep in places, and things weren't helped by another violent squall which blew in at this point: very windy and wet, but the end at Brackenclose was in sight as we got below the cloud base (200m?) for the first time since Greendale! An embarrassingly slow plod, but it is always satisfying and enjoyable to complete a long race in these conditions (around 40 dropped out or missed the cut-offs). It reminded me of many similar outings in the past: Welsh 1000s and Foel Fras in 2009, OMM in 2008, Mynydd Troed 2012 and many, many more. On balance, it was less extreme than all these: just standard bad summer conditions.
Peaks: Illgill Head (609m), Whin Rigg (635m), Seatallan (692m), Scoat Fell (841m), Pillar (892m), Great Gable (899m), Scafell Pike (978m)
Time/Position: 6.08 (65th from 130)
This is often considered to be the hardest fell race in the UK. Having done most of the other contenders I am inclined to agree, although it is all relative, particularly as I am abjectly unsuited to long fell races and have rarely tried to properly race them: preferring instead to jog round and enjoy them in 'tourist' mode. Today was no exception. I have very little climbing mileage in my legs, and not much distance, so it was something of a relief to get a poor forecast which made it acceptable to go into survival plod mode. Perfect conditions would have been very frustrating! After an evening meal at the Inn, heavy rain during the night continued to hammer our tents through the morning and was obviously set in for the day. In these circumstances, I pack a lot of kit, and I had a fairly heavy sac as the race set off for Illgill Head along the path Vic and I took last year for our long Lingmell Dash warm-up. This is a relatively short climb, although quite steep, and our small team of Buckley Runners stuck together for it: felt like Tattenhall Tough Team for a bit! A nice relaxed run along the ridge, wind not too bad, to Whin Rigg in around 45 minutes. Took the steep descent very easily, and we even had a brief view of Wastwater as we descended to Woodhow at the far end of the lake. Running along the bottom of the valley through woods and fields to Greendale was delightful: it even stopped raining for a bit. Then the great Joss Naylor handed me a drink before the next climb up Greendale Gill. The rain began in earnest again on the steep sides of the gill: the river in semi-spate as we crossed to gain the unpleasant slog up featureless terrain to the top of Seatallan. One of the toughest climbs of the day: wet and cold with the knowledge that the race had hardly even started. From Seatallan, the trickiest navigation of the route starts. Initially a well defined spur leads to the Pots of Ashness. Then we took a contouring line towards Haycock. I kept Nether Beck as a handrail, map and compass out throughout, and we emerged eventually on the main ridge over to Scoat Fell. We were now much higher, and the weather got correspondingly worse. Indeed, the section over Wind Gap to Pillar, exposed (as its name suggests) to the prevailing south-westerlies was probably the worst part of the race weather-wise. I was getting cold, and glad of my cautious tactics: took five minutes at the Pillar summit cairn to put my extra coat and trousers on as the wind howled overhead. Felt much better afterwards, but was now well behind the group I had been running with and on my own for the next section along the ridge to Looking Stead and the Black Sail Pass. Fortunately, I knew the rest of the route slightly (although I always lack the local knowledge I have for North Wales). Below Kirkfell, I took the smaller contouring path above Ennerdale and was joined by several other runners. This was mercifully sheltered out of the wind, but boggy. From the col at Beck Head, a steep climb leads to the top of Great Gable: tough. I fell on the descent, bashing my knee. This was painful and took a while to run off. Ferocious gusts as we got close to Sty Head, then bonking slightly as the intricate and lengthy route to distant Esk Hause took longer than anticipated. I was running out of food, but promised myself a snack to start the final climb up the Pike. Completely alone again for this: wild weather. From the summit of Scafell Pike (only the third time I've ever been up here!) I had some concerns about finding the Lingmell col as the terrain here is very confusing with paths in all directions. I took a direct bearing but ended up following another runner down the main Brown Tongue path. This cuts back towards the Lingmell Col but we went too far north, ending up above Piers Gill. An old wall meant it was easy to work out where we were, but it all meant an extra climb back over the col to pick up the path down to Lingmell nose: I lost 10-20 places and 15-20 minutes as a result of this small error. I knew the final descent from last year's Lingmell Dash British Championship race. It is very steep in places, and things weren't helped by another violent squall which blew in at this point: very windy and wet, but the end at Brackenclose was in sight as we got below the cloud base (200m?) for the first time since Greendale! An embarrassingly slow plod, but it is always satisfying and enjoyable to complete a long race in these conditions (around 40 dropped out or missed the cut-offs). It reminded me of many similar outings in the past: Welsh 1000s and Foel Fras in 2009, OMM in 2008, Mynydd Troed 2012 and many, many more. On balance, it was less extreme than all these: just standard bad summer conditions.
Sunday, July 03, 2016
Fairy Freckled Cow trail race
Race: Fairy Freckled Cow, Alwen trail race (North Wales trail running championships 11k)
Time/Position: 42.33 (2nd from 134)
It was a surprise to still be leading this race at the far end of the lake, where the bridge crosses the outflow and the main climb up onto Hiraethog begins. There was a decent-sized field, but compared to my two previous outings on the course a relative lack of runners at the sharper end. This was odd, as it was the first North Wales Trail Running Championships this year. A much younger runner was with me, going ahead occasionally then dropping behind. I thought he might blow up, but on the contrary he was quicker up the hill and I couldn't quite catch him on the undulating return leg. Conditions were pretty good, in contrast to last year's rain and 2014's heat. Sunny intervals, reasonably cool. As we approached the finish at the dam, I conceded defeat. I was just over half a minute behind the winner but well over two minutes ahead of third. The winner didn't qualify for the North Wales Championships so I was fortunate to get the overall win. Great race again, and weirdly similar (in terms of finishing position and general race dynamic) to the Two Lakes half marathon in the same area earlier this summer.
Time/Position: 42.33 (2nd from 134)
It was a surprise to still be leading this race at the far end of the lake, where the bridge crosses the outflow and the main climb up onto Hiraethog begins. There was a decent-sized field, but compared to my two previous outings on the course a relative lack of runners at the sharper end. This was odd, as it was the first North Wales Trail Running Championships this year. A much younger runner was with me, going ahead occasionally then dropping behind. I thought he might blow up, but on the contrary he was quicker up the hill and I couldn't quite catch him on the undulating return leg. Conditions were pretty good, in contrast to last year's rain and 2014's heat. Sunny intervals, reasonably cool. As we approached the finish at the dam, I conceded defeat. I was just over half a minute behind the winner but well over two minutes ahead of third. The winner didn't qualify for the North Wales Championships so I was fortunate to get the overall win. Great race again, and weirdly similar (in terms of finishing position and general race dynamic) to the Two Lakes half marathon in the same area earlier this summer.
Wednesday, June 29, 2016
Robbie Webster's Wobbler
Race: Robbie Webster's Wobbler, Frodsham (6m)
Time/Position: 43.53 (10th from 146)
Torrential rain earlier in the day had reduced these usually sandy paths to muddy quagmires in places. I did the race two years ago, and train on these paths quite regularly, but the race route is so complex and twisty that it would be very hard to reproduce! Great fun though - with a start in Frodsham and a finish on top of Beacon Hill. It also takes in the steep Woodhouses Hill and several other smaller climbs around the Helsby/Frodsham hills. In terms of overall feel, it is like a long and hard XC race with some longer fell race style climbs thrown in: an intense session which is hard to pace. My time was well down on two years ago, perhaps because of the mud, or the lower start, or general lack of race fitness. This race feels a bit like a rollercoaster at times, quick descents, sharp turns and short climbs: all rather exciting. Buckley won the team prize, with Jez, Simon E and myself counting.
Time/Position: 43.53 (10th from 146)
Torrential rain earlier in the day had reduced these usually sandy paths to muddy quagmires in places. I did the race two years ago, and train on these paths quite regularly, but the race route is so complex and twisty that it would be very hard to reproduce! Great fun though - with a start in Frodsham and a finish on top of Beacon Hill. It also takes in the steep Woodhouses Hill and several other smaller climbs around the Helsby/Frodsham hills. In terms of overall feel, it is like a long and hard XC race with some longer fell race style climbs thrown in: an intense session which is hard to pace. My time was well down on two years ago, perhaps because of the mud, or the lower start, or general lack of race fitness. This race feels a bit like a rollercoaster at times, quick descents, sharp turns and short climbs: all rather exciting. Buckley won the team prize, with Jez, Simon E and myself counting.
Sunday, June 26, 2016
Moel y Gamelin fell race
Race: Moel y Gamelin (10m+/3000ft/AM)
Time/Position: 1.24.34 (8th from 70)
There was a time when I really enjoyed this course, but in recent years I always seem to struggle to pace it. I must have done it 7 or 8 times, and once ran 1.20. But last year I blew quite badly on the long XC section above Carrog where I used to pick up places. This year, I took it steadily across the ridge over Moel y Faen, Gamelin and Morfydd, and did at least enjoy the long flatter section at the far end. I did pick up a few places but then lost them again for the steep climb back over Gamelin where I really suffered, yet again! Ideal conditions, cool and cloudy.
Time/Position: 1.24.34 (8th from 70)
There was a time when I really enjoyed this course, but in recent years I always seem to struggle to pace it. I must have done it 7 or 8 times, and once ran 1.20. But last year I blew quite badly on the long XC section above Carrog where I used to pick up places. This year, I took it steadily across the ridge over Moel y Faen, Gamelin and Morfydd, and did at least enjoy the long flatter section at the far end. I did pick up a few places but then lost them again for the steep climb back over Gamelin where I really suffered, yet again! Ideal conditions, cool and cloudy.
Wednesday, June 22, 2016
Carreg Wastad climbing
Crag: Carreg Wastad, Llanberis Pass
Routes: Skylon (HS 4b,4a:led p.2), Crackstone Rib (S 4a:led p.2), Ribstone Crack (VS 4c,4a:sec)
All routes I have done before, but a valuable and enjoyable session none the less. A bit of light drizzle as we sat with a coffee in Nant Peris, but prospects looked quite good as Vic led the first pitch of Skylon. I led this a few years ago, finding it easy. Today, I was initially puzzled by the crux, probably an indication that I haven't done much recently. It goes easily to the small overhang, which I wrongly probed to the right. Going left gives a distinct, but short, crux: much harder than the rest of the route. A few shelves lead to the belay, after which I led the slabby top pitch on sloping holds. It was then time for the classic Crackstone Rib, probably the best Severe in Wales, for the third time (spread over a quarter of a century). Vic led the traverse pitch which leads to the glorious juggy rib, beautifully positioned above the valley. I then led the top pitch, up the chimney to a large flake, then the very brief technical hand traverse - probably the only tricky move on the route - to another flake and the finish. We just had time to nip up the strenuous Ribstone Crack in one giant pitch: another climb I have done before and one that demands a certain amount of technique to climb comfortably. Top of the grade, steep and awkward with two distinct cruxes.
Routes: Skylon (HS 4b,4a:led p.2), Crackstone Rib (S 4a:led p.2), Ribstone Crack (VS 4c,4a:sec)
All routes I have done before, but a valuable and enjoyable session none the less. A bit of light drizzle as we sat with a coffee in Nant Peris, but prospects looked quite good as Vic led the first pitch of Skylon. I led this a few years ago, finding it easy. Today, I was initially puzzled by the crux, probably an indication that I haven't done much recently. It goes easily to the small overhang, which I wrongly probed to the right. Going left gives a distinct, but short, crux: much harder than the rest of the route. A few shelves lead to the belay, after which I led the slabby top pitch on sloping holds. It was then time for the classic Crackstone Rib, probably the best Severe in Wales, for the third time (spread over a quarter of a century). Vic led the traverse pitch which leads to the glorious juggy rib, beautifully positioned above the valley. I then led the top pitch, up the chimney to a large flake, then the very brief technical hand traverse - probably the only tricky move on the route - to another flake and the finish. We just had time to nip up the strenuous Ribstone Crack in one giant pitch: another climb I have done before and one that demands a certain amount of technique to climb comfortably. Top of the grade, steep and awkward with two distinct cruxes.
Friday, June 17, 2016
Tattenhall Tough Team race
Race: Tattenhall Tough Team (9m+)
Time/Position: 63.56 (7th from 185 [2nd team from 65: 1st Veteran team])
This event had been chosen as one for Buckley to blitz with as many teams as possible. Our team ('Blue Genes') reprised the line-up of four years ago: me, Jez, Eric. Always a very enjoyable team event, and only the third time I've done it. A full five minutes down on my two previous outings on this race, although the course has changed slightly with a longer run-in back to the social club. We all ran together for the long road section up towards the Peckforton hills, beautiful sunny weather, not too hot. Jez sped off as we reached the off-road section, which is not Eric's favoured terrain. It takes a great route through these hills, weaving round until reaching the infamous railway. I waited for Eric at the top, and he recovered well through the flatter fields which eventually lead back down to the road. We seemed to have a decent gap on the third placed runner from a few other clubs and eventually finished second team overall, and first veteran's team.
Time/Position: 63.56 (7th from 185 [2nd team from 65: 1st Veteran team])
This event had been chosen as one for Buckley to blitz with as many teams as possible. Our team ('Blue Genes') reprised the line-up of four years ago: me, Jez, Eric. Always a very enjoyable team event, and only the third time I've done it. A full five minutes down on my two previous outings on this race, although the course has changed slightly with a longer run-in back to the social club. We all ran together for the long road section up towards the Peckforton hills, beautiful sunny weather, not too hot. Jez sped off as we reached the off-road section, which is not Eric's favoured terrain. It takes a great route through these hills, weaving round until reaching the infamous railway. I waited for Eric at the top, and he recovered well through the flatter fields which eventually lead back down to the road. We seemed to have a decent gap on the third placed runner from a few other clubs and eventually finished second team overall, and first veteran's team.
Friday, June 10, 2016
Limoges airport-centre runs
Probably more accurate to call these 'jogs' blended with fast walking. Still, three different routes between the city centre of Limoges and the airport in 27 hours must be some kind of record (albeit an utterly pointless one). I remember reading Will Self's Psychogeography account of walking from London to Heathrow and then from JFK to NYC, and thought this would make a provincial French alternative! I landed in the rather less glamorous Limoges airport before 9.30am with a lot of time to kill, so had a relaxing coffee and croissant at the airport, sitting outside, just to acclimatise. No public transport into town, so I planned to get last night's race out of my legs with a specially constructed route taking the country lanes into the city centre. It worked fairly well. I didn't have much baggage, so could move fairly quickly down quiet roads. My route to the centre went on an indirect southerly loop via La Breuil, La Foret and Landouge - where I entered the Limoges suburbs. I arrived in the market near the old Rue de la Boucherie just before midday: perfect timing for a superb lunch of Limousin charcuterie followed by veal breast with a rosemary jus and frites maison. The odd glass of claret too. The next day, I ran back via a different northerly loop along the Rue de St Gence. This was an even more affluent suburban area, so I had to double back to find my favourite kind of local restaurant. Again, I struck gold - this time on the Rue de Bellac. Basse Cote, local goat's cheese, unlimited wine, pain perdu and myriad other culinary delights, before I continued along the even longer northern loop back to the airport to meet Steve and Ceri. A legendary weekend ensued.
Wednesday, June 08, 2016
The Beast race
Race: Up the Beast fell race (7.5k/2000ft)
Time/Position: 40.47 (6th from 91)
Tonight's outing, although badly timed just before my trip to France, at least kept up my record of running in every one of these races since it was launched: this is the ninth year I think. A route change this year, with a harder finish which doubles back into the highpoint of the woods above Maeshafn. I didn't run very well, but didn't expect to. Probably started a bit too quickly, so was blowing on the Beast itself and never really recovered. The extra hill in the woods finished me off, although it didn't make any difference to the final positions as I couldn't catch Simon E ahead and I just held off those behind. After a shower and meal at home, I drove direct to Leeds-Bradford airport for a few hours sleep in the car before my flight to Limoges.
Time/Position: 40.47 (6th from 91)
Tonight's outing, although badly timed just before my trip to France, at least kept up my record of running in every one of these races since it was launched: this is the ninth year I think. A route change this year, with a harder finish which doubles back into the highpoint of the woods above Maeshafn. I didn't run very well, but didn't expect to. Probably started a bit too quickly, so was blowing on the Beast itself and never really recovered. The extra hill in the woods finished me off, although it didn't make any difference to the final positions as I couldn't catch Simon E ahead and I just held off those behind. After a shower and meal at home, I drove direct to Leeds-Bradford airport for a few hours sleep in the car before my flight to Limoges.
Saturday, June 04, 2016
Sron na Creise scramble
Peaks: Sron na Creise, Stob a' Ghlais Choire (996m)
Area: Black Mount/Glencoe, Scotland
Routes: North Ridge (M/III:sol), North East Ridge (II:sol)
I have driven past Sron na Creise dozens of times and often eyed the obvious north ridge straight up the peak, which is a well-known scramble. The plan was for K to drop me off in Glen Etive, then I would complete this obvious scrambling mini-circuit as quickly as possible, then meet them all in the White Corries ski cafe - from where we would continue our homeward journey. It worked very well as a short and intense outing, with a great deal of rock to enjoy. From Glen Etive, I crossed the river then ran along the fairly gently inclined moor straight towards the ridge that runs down to the left of the obvious stream gully. There was an obvious alternative right of the gully, but the true ridge line left of the gully gets to grips with rock quite quickly and is much steeper. It took around 20 minutes of running to get to the base. The scrambling was excellent: good, clean rock, and a lot of it. An initial section of steep, clean slabs, leads to an easing before a series of shorter walls leads up to a more intimidating tower clearly visible as the steepest section from the valley. The rock runs to superb holds and remains clean and solid throughout. Hugely enjoyable, with good scrambling even as the ridge line begins to fragment higher up: less than an hour from glen to summit. Temperatures were cooler on the summit, with good views across to the Buachaille, and over the Mamores to Ben Nevis. The occasional shaft of sunlight peeking through the high cloud. From the top of Sron na Creise, I ran over to Stob a'Ghlais Choire, then straight down the NE Ridge - with the northern end of the Black Mount beyond. The NE ridge gives an easier and less distinctive route on to the Black Mount than the North, but still gives some scrambling. With no prior knowledge, it is slightly intimidating initially in descent, but a bit of weaving enables the base of the valley (Cam Ghleann) to be gained by a couple of enjoyable rocky gullies. A long run with an unavoidable diversion round the bottom of the side spur of Creag Dhubh eventually gains an indistinct path east to the White Corries, where we continued the journey home with me pouring with sweat. Around 95 minutes for this round.
Area: Black Mount/Glencoe, Scotland
Routes: North Ridge (M/III:sol), North East Ridge (II:sol)
I have driven past Sron na Creise dozens of times and often eyed the obvious north ridge straight up the peak, which is a well-known scramble. The plan was for K to drop me off in Glen Etive, then I would complete this obvious scrambling mini-circuit as quickly as possible, then meet them all in the White Corries ski cafe - from where we would continue our homeward journey. It worked very well as a short and intense outing, with a great deal of rock to enjoy. From Glen Etive, I crossed the river then ran along the fairly gently inclined moor straight towards the ridge that runs down to the left of the obvious stream gully. There was an obvious alternative right of the gully, but the true ridge line left of the gully gets to grips with rock quite quickly and is much steeper. It took around 20 minutes of running to get to the base. The scrambling was excellent: good, clean rock, and a lot of it. An initial section of steep, clean slabs, leads to an easing before a series of shorter walls leads up to a more intimidating tower clearly visible as the steepest section from the valley. The rock runs to superb holds and remains clean and solid throughout. Hugely enjoyable, with good scrambling even as the ridge line begins to fragment higher up: less than an hour from glen to summit. Temperatures were cooler on the summit, with good views across to the Buachaille, and over the Mamores to Ben Nevis. The occasional shaft of sunlight peeking through the high cloud. From the top of Sron na Creise, I ran over to Stob a'Ghlais Choire, then straight down the NE Ridge - with the northern end of the Black Mount beyond. The NE ridge gives an easier and less distinctive route on to the Black Mount than the North, but still gives some scrambling. With no prior knowledge, it is slightly intimidating initially in descent, but a bit of weaving enables the base of the valley (Cam Ghleann) to be gained by a couple of enjoyable rocky gullies. A long run with an unavoidable diversion round the bottom of the side spur of Creag Dhubh eventually gains an indistinct path east to the White Corries, where we continued the journey home with me pouring with sweat. Around 95 minutes for this round.
Friday, June 03, 2016
Beinn na Seilg run and climbing
Peak/Crag: Beinn na Seilg, Ardnamurchan
Routes: Gabbro Slab (D:sol), Faradh Dubh (VD:sol/sh), Identity Crisis (VS 4c:sh), South-West Buttress (M:sol), Trident (VD/HS 4c:sh)
This was the hardest crag of all to find, given the paucity of information I had (just a scrawled note that it lay on the 'western slopes'). As the local Kilchoan crag, however, I was determined to find it and headed out in the late afternoon after sailing back from a lovely day in Tobermory. The weather remained perfect: warm, crystal clear, light easterly winds. I ran up to the Lochan Gleann Locha, as I had done on Tuesday, and scoured the western slopes beyond this. A mistake, as I was later to find out. There are numerous remote crags low down on the hill facing west, but none was correct. After some exhausting running up and down, I decided to go to the summit (which I wanted to do anyway). On emerging at the cairn, I immediately spied the crag, a really impressive 50m sweep of gabbro just below the 'secondary' summit that was obvious from our cottage. First of all, though, I enjoyed the view from the top. Indeed, as the sun began to drop I would honestly rate it perhaps the best I have ever experienced in Scotland (and that is up against some pretty stiff competition!). Directly above the western fringe of Ardnamurchan: wonderful views of the Isles, Mull and Ring Dyke in a beautiful soft light as the sun began to drop over the Atlantic. Memorable. I scampered down to the crag, which currently has no more than 20 routes on it. There is immense scope for development: at least 100 routes seemed possible if the shorter flanks are also developed. The main Hebrides Wall is a lovely sweep of gabbro slabs, at the upper limit of shunting feasibility. Indeed, the rope initially failed to reach the bottom so I soloed up a diff before following the pleasant line of what I took to be Faradh Dubh up the central slab. Identity Crisis was a more obvious harder line, taking a steep crack towards the left of the crag. Some tricky moves initially up a slanting groove, then easier above. All of these were 40m pitches. Trident was slightly longer, if anything. It took the obvious three flake 'trident' in the centre of the crag then stepped right. I think the route then goes even further right, but because of the line of the rope I had to go directly up. This gave two or three hardish moves on unhelpful side pulls: more like VS 4c temporarily. Above, I rejoined the original line. During one of the descents, I nipped up the scramble of the South West Buttress. In glorious sunshine, with the sun dropping over the sea below, not a person, car or house (one, maybe!) visible throughout the entire landscape, this was absolutely glorious. When I'd finished this brief session, I spent a few minutes just enjoying the stunning panorama whilst sitting near the cairn: total peace and solitude. Ran back down to Kilchoan in time to prepare our final evening meal.
Routes: Gabbro Slab (D:sol), Faradh Dubh (VD:sol/sh), Identity Crisis (VS 4c:sh), South-West Buttress (M:sol), Trident (VD/HS 4c:sh)
This was the hardest crag of all to find, given the paucity of information I had (just a scrawled note that it lay on the 'western slopes'). As the local Kilchoan crag, however, I was determined to find it and headed out in the late afternoon after sailing back from a lovely day in Tobermory. The weather remained perfect: warm, crystal clear, light easterly winds. I ran up to the Lochan Gleann Locha, as I had done on Tuesday, and scoured the western slopes beyond this. A mistake, as I was later to find out. There are numerous remote crags low down on the hill facing west, but none was correct. After some exhausting running up and down, I decided to go to the summit (which I wanted to do anyway). On emerging at the cairn, I immediately spied the crag, a really impressive 50m sweep of gabbro just below the 'secondary' summit that was obvious from our cottage. First of all, though, I enjoyed the view from the top. Indeed, as the sun began to drop I would honestly rate it perhaps the best I have ever experienced in Scotland (and that is up against some pretty stiff competition!). Directly above the western fringe of Ardnamurchan: wonderful views of the Isles, Mull and Ring Dyke in a beautiful soft light as the sun began to drop over the Atlantic. Memorable. I scampered down to the crag, which currently has no more than 20 routes on it. There is immense scope for development: at least 100 routes seemed possible if the shorter flanks are also developed. The main Hebrides Wall is a lovely sweep of gabbro slabs, at the upper limit of shunting feasibility. Indeed, the rope initially failed to reach the bottom so I soloed up a diff before following the pleasant line of what I took to be Faradh Dubh up the central slab. Identity Crisis was a more obvious harder line, taking a steep crack towards the left of the crag. Some tricky moves initially up a slanting groove, then easier above. All of these were 40m pitches. Trident was slightly longer, if anything. It took the obvious three flake 'trident' in the centre of the crag then stepped right. I think the route then goes even further right, but because of the line of the rope I had to go directly up. This gave two or three hardish moves on unhelpful side pulls: more like VS 4c temporarily. Above, I rejoined the original line. During one of the descents, I nipped up the scramble of the South West Buttress. In glorious sunshine, with the sun dropping over the sea below, not a person, car or house (one, maybe!) visible throughout the entire landscape, this was absolutely glorious. When I'd finished this brief session, I spent a few minutes just enjoying the stunning panorama whilst sitting near the cairn: total peace and solitude. Ran back down to Kilchoan in time to prepare our final evening meal.
Thursday, June 02, 2016
Achnaha climbing
Crag: Button Slab (Achnaha)
Routes: Mickey (S:sol), Pash (S 4b:sol), Ludo (VD:sol), Felix (VD:sol)
Crag: Achnaha Buttress
Routes: Soul Searching (VS 4c:sh)
Crag: Black Slab (Achnaha/Sanna)
Routes: Sanna Seaming (HS 4b:sol)
Crag: Graffiti Slab (Achnaha/Sanna)
Routes: Triple Cracks (VD:sol), Mini Dyke (VD:sol)
Without a guidebook or large scale map it was proving difficult to locate these Ardnamurchan crags. Most were a fair walk from the road, all in stunning remote locations on the famous volcanic 'ring dyke' of small peaks that characterises this unique geological landscape. I knew there was an 'Achnaha Buttress' and spied a crag I thought it might be on another pre-breakfast outing. Still cold and blowy, with a little more cloud initially (not much though!). I trekked across a wild landscape, crossing the Allt Sanna river, then over an awkward series of subsidiary gabbro ridges - riddled with smaller crags - until emerging at a larger buttress. This was the place, but first I jogged up to the nearby Button Slab: a delightful slab of rough gabbro with four easy routes. They were all gentle: I started with the line up the middle, which went up the slab to a steepening taken on huge holds. I also did a few lines up two obvious cracks further left on this crag. Shunting on the main crag was tricky, with few belays on top, but I did manage to sample Soul Searching at a mild VS 4c, which goes up a steep flake to a pinnacle before some pleasant wall climbing. On the way back to the car, I stopped off at the immaculate black 'dome' slab that doesn't (apparently) have any routes on it. It must have been climbed, however, as it has three or four very eye-catching lines that looked (from below) like they might go at E1 5a: all on absolutely immaculate rock with superb friction. I did the easier 'seam' to the left at around HS 4b. Finally, I did a few rather contrived and escapable routes on 'graffiti slab', the broken 40ft crag with feint scrawled graffiti nearest the road. Delightful slabby padding in the morning sunshine although, again, people have presumably played on this for years. My first route took the obvious triple crack system, broken by ledges, on the right: I then did the miniature seam, quite delicate, up the darker slab further left. Home for breakfast at 10.15am!
Routes: Mickey (S:sol), Pash (S 4b:sol), Ludo (VD:sol), Felix (VD:sol)
Crag: Achnaha Buttress
Routes: Soul Searching (VS 4c:sh)
Crag: Black Slab (Achnaha/Sanna)
Routes: Sanna Seaming (HS 4b:sol)
Crag: Graffiti Slab (Achnaha/Sanna)
Routes: Triple Cracks (VD:sol), Mini Dyke (VD:sol)
Without a guidebook or large scale map it was proving difficult to locate these Ardnamurchan crags. Most were a fair walk from the road, all in stunning remote locations on the famous volcanic 'ring dyke' of small peaks that characterises this unique geological landscape. I knew there was an 'Achnaha Buttress' and spied a crag I thought it might be on another pre-breakfast outing. Still cold and blowy, with a little more cloud initially (not much though!). I trekked across a wild landscape, crossing the Allt Sanna river, then over an awkward series of subsidiary gabbro ridges - riddled with smaller crags - until emerging at a larger buttress. This was the place, but first I jogged up to the nearby Button Slab: a delightful slab of rough gabbro with four easy routes. They were all gentle: I started with the line up the middle, which went up the slab to a steepening taken on huge holds. I also did a few lines up two obvious cracks further left on this crag. Shunting on the main crag was tricky, with few belays on top, but I did manage to sample Soul Searching at a mild VS 4c, which goes up a steep flake to a pinnacle before some pleasant wall climbing. On the way back to the car, I stopped off at the immaculate black 'dome' slab that doesn't (apparently) have any routes on it. It must have been climbed, however, as it has three or four very eye-catching lines that looked (from below) like they might go at E1 5a: all on absolutely immaculate rock with superb friction. I did the easier 'seam' to the left at around HS 4b. Finally, I did a few rather contrived and escapable routes on 'graffiti slab', the broken 40ft crag with feint scrawled graffiti nearest the road. Delightful slabby padding in the morning sunshine although, again, people have presumably played on this for years. My first route took the obvious triple crack system, broken by ledges, on the right: I then did the miniature seam, quite delicate, up the darker slab further left. Home for breakfast at 10.15am!
Wednesday, June 01, 2016
Ardnamurchan Lighthouse climbing
Crag: Ardnamurchan Point (Ardnamurchan)
Routes: The Chimney (VD:sol/sh), Rick Diculous (VD:sol/sh), Eigg Scramble (D:sol), Home for Tea (S:sol/sh)
The wave-cut platform at the base of this crag is the most westerly few feet of land on the mainland of Britain, and is unlikely to have been trodden by many. That doesn't mean very much in these parts, with islands all around, but I have fond memories of Land's End's famous Long Climb in 1995, where you feel like you are climbing from the Atlantic into Britain. Ardnamurchan Point is further west than Land's End, and runs to a small crag that gives some nice gabbro climbs on rough rock almost directly below the famous lighthouse. I set up a shunt for some of the routes, clipping in at times partly because I was just guessing the lines of the routes. The first two were obvious, however. The distinct chimney is fun, as is the route up the arete on sharp holds. Much further right, I enjoyed a wonderful romp up a series of flake cracks on huge positive holds - preceded by a few awkward steps. I took this to be the line of Eigg Scramble, and I took Home for Tea to be the obvious clean open book corner/groove in the middle of the crag: the strongest line here. This was just a short family outing, immediately after lunch of local salmon at the nearby Sonachan hotel.
Routes: The Chimney (VD:sol/sh), Rick Diculous (VD:sol/sh), Eigg Scramble (D:sol), Home for Tea (S:sol/sh)
The wave-cut platform at the base of this crag is the most westerly few feet of land on the mainland of Britain, and is unlikely to have been trodden by many. That doesn't mean very much in these parts, with islands all around, but I have fond memories of Land's End's famous Long Climb in 1995, where you feel like you are climbing from the Atlantic into Britain. Ardnamurchan Point is further west than Land's End, and runs to a small crag that gives some nice gabbro climbs on rough rock almost directly below the famous lighthouse. I set up a shunt for some of the routes, clipping in at times partly because I was just guessing the lines of the routes. The first two were obvious, however. The distinct chimney is fun, as is the route up the arete on sharp holds. Much further right, I enjoyed a wonderful romp up a series of flake cracks on huge positive holds - preceded by a few awkward steps. I took this to be the line of Eigg Scramble, and I took Home for Tea to be the obvious clean open book corner/groove in the middle of the crag: the strongest line here. This was just a short family outing, immediately after lunch of local salmon at the nearby Sonachan hotel.
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