Rhinns of Kells

Peaks: Corserine, Millfire, Milldown

Area: Galloway, Scotland

Galloway ticks a lot of boxes - mysterious, tough terrain, devoid of people. After a memorable short trip with Peter in 2018, I'd been keen to return and with a massively constrained window for a Scotland trip this year it seemed a good choice. Having effectively abandoned yesterday's Cader race, I had a reasonable amount of energy for this outing, which penetrates the wild interior from Forrest Lodge above Dalry. Forest tracks lead from the remote-feeling car park up past a lodge to the edge of Loch Harrow. Ahead, Corserine looms - an elongated plateau. A good path led up the side of a broad grassy cwm containing the Polk Burn to the vague ridge of Polmaddy Gairy and then the huge whaleback summit of Corserine on which it is difficult to determine the highest point. The weather was cool, with high cloud and little wind, although mist was descending over the Merrick and the Range of the Awful Hand further west: Galloway has fantastic names, as a result of its historical linguistic/cultural mix. The next section, along the Rhinns of Kells ridge, was very enjoyable. I cut the corner above Loch Dungeon and really enjoyed the views west over the wild heart of Galloway. We ran up the Merrick in 2018 so it was nice to look across to it. The terrain to the east is more rolling, culminating in the Cairnsmore of Carsphairn. I had the entire ridge to myself, saw nobody all day, and it was easy and enjoyable over the lonely summits of Millfire and Milldon. At the Lochans of Auchniebut I took an unwise shortcut before the summit of Meikle Millyea, direct down to Loch Dungeon. This was very unpleasant and craggy, dropping into a steep gorge at one point, necessitating evasive action, steeply down tussocks and bog to eventually gain the short of Loch Dungeon. This was a great spot, wild, the only sound coming from several sandpipers, mist rolling in over Corserine. I headed back via a complex route weaving round Loch Dungeon shores to Loch Minnoch. Then forest tracks above Mid Burn and McAdam Burn led back to Forrest Lodge and a short drive to Ayr.

Ras y Gader

Race: Ras y Gader

The less said about this the better. I ended up 30 minutes slower than my 2017 time. I had a reasonable start up to Ty Nant in 20 minutes, then slowed dramatically, really struggling in the hottest weather of the year so far (summit in 1.10, my best is eight minutes quicker). This then became even more disastrous on the descent, where I effectively abandoned the race below the zigzags with an upset stomach. I walked the remainder, until reaching the final tarmac section.

Prestatyn (BL race 6)

Race: Prestatyn Border League (5.9k)

Time/Position: 20.51 (39th from 309 [1st V50])

Having missed the rest of the season because of my illness, unable to try to repeat my category win of last year, it was a relief to finally get back to border league action on the last race in Prestatyn. I was pleased with the performance too, and felt better than I have in a long time (as opposed to desperately hanging on). That said, I couldn't have gone any faster. The race was an extended version of the parkrun route with a shorter loop at the western end, fairly similar to other league events from the Nova over the years (I remember the crucial climax of the 2015-2016 season here, when it was very close in the V45 category). I went off fast, 3.20/km pace initially heading west, then eased through the gravel near the golf course, then picked it up a little towards the finish.

York parkrun

'Race': York parkrun

Time/Position: 18.22 (19th from 645)

Potentially a very fast course indeed - in fact, probably the fastest parkrun course I've seen. But we were here unexpectedly, I didn't have my proper kit or shoes, and only cobbled it together last minute by way of clearing the head after three very stressful days spent almost entirely indoors! I wasn't at all surprised that it was by far my lowest parkrun finishing position ever - a massive field, quite a number of whom were clearly going for quick times. Essentially it is a lap and a half around the giant York racecourse, all tarmac, with wind the only potential downside. I didn't feel great, running in old style 'flats', but was satisfied enough with another basic speed session, one second slower than Birkenhead last week! Definitely a course to return to properly prepared.

Llwybr Llechi/Slate Trail

The plan was a good one - a two-day attempt on the slate trail, starting and finishing in Bethesda with an overnight stay in Blaenau half way. It worked a treat until the weather came in on Monday morning, torrential rain in stereotypical Blaenau fashion. I could have got back to the car, but I would undoubtedly have cut corners and the whole point is to do this route in its entiriety, so I will have to return. Anyway, day one went superbly, leaving Bethesda in perfect spring weather, climbing through the slate up towards Lon Las Ogwen and Zipworld. Then, with Carnedd Dafydd above it was into the familiar route up the old Nant Francon road, last travelled in the December snow. At Ogwen cottage, which I reached in an hour, I had a short break, before the next section along the A5 and then the old road to Capel Curig. So far, so familiar, as was the next section up the side of Crimpiau. From here, though, a lovely path weaves through the moor and woodland north of the A5, with interesting views back over the Carneddau and over to Siabod. Very light drizzle at times, before the descent down to Ty Hyll and then the riverside path to Betws. I remember doing Traditional Route from this path above Swallow Falls years ago - I suspect we were the last people to climb it! Down to Betws and a much needed refuel, still before midday. From Betws, nice paths lead along the Conwy to Fairy Glen and then woods to Conwy Falls. Then it is up the Machno valley and the section with most personal resonance, and also the quietest and best section of the route. A track on the west of the valley eventually climbs above Penmachno itself (small route finding error due to a fallen sign) and then another big climb above Carrog and Cwm. The sun was out now, and this section was superb - including the steep climb through Rhiw Bach quarry above Cwm, where taid worked and a place visited with dad. Cwm is a very special place - I was reminded of it when I visited Ushguli, one of the most extraordinary places I have ever been, tucked away at the end of a remote valley in Svaneti, Georgia. Admittedly, the drama there is accentuated by Ushba, the giant peak that blocks the end of the valley - but the comparison is a valid one, an isolated community of dark stone cut off from the rest of the world. At the top of the climb, the pass is breached and a level section through woods leads to the new Cwt y Bugail/Graig Ddu quarry via a very steep incline, and then the very long descent down Cwm Teigl to Llan Ffestiniog, round the side of Manod Mawr. More sunshine and easy jogging down the tarmac, cutting the corner slightly to head direct to Llan. I was tiring now, so the next section took a while. It was new terrain for me, through the glades and dells of Cwm Teigl and the characteristic oak woodland of the Vale of Ffestiniog - at the very best time of year in the best weather. It was all a bit twisting and involved though, tiring at the end of a long day, and I was glad to reach Blaenau after eight hours, 56k and 1650m of effort.

Birkenhead parkrun

'Race': Birkenhead parkrun

Time/Position: 18.21 (5th from 560)

Very familiar territory from multiple border league fixtures - one of which once went this (clockwise) way round, the converse of the borders loop. However, despite all those races, I'd never done the parkrun before, which always attracts a huge field. I deliberately went off fast for the first lap, then tried to hold on for the second, by way of some inadequate speedwork. This worked reasonably well and I was fairly satisfied with the time, given current circumstances.  

Y Garn

Race: Y Garn

Time/Position: 33.41 (12th from 65)

A quad destroyer if ever there was one, I last did this in 2008 when it was a standalone weekend race. It is now part of the Tuesday evening series, and takes a rather odd route to the summit - up extremely steep grassy slopes left of the normal path, gained by a short contour. The race has an impact way beyond its tiny length, as is often the case with events of this kind - and the damage and muscle soreness caused reminded me of the aftermath of the Jubilee Plunge. Conditions were ideal, cloudy and fairly still - but there wasn't much time to enjoy the views of Nantlle from the little summit ridge. About 25 minutes up, and around 8 from the summit to the finish. Literally not a single section of flat ground, and not many gentle inclines - the descent takes a little boulder field and then plunges down, or near, the normal route. Legs like lead at the bottom, despite the extreme brevity of the course. Tried to loosen them with a jog along OD from Bodfari to Rhuallt next morning.

Cader north

Peaks: Pen y Gadair, Mynydd Moel, Gau Graig

Area: Cader Idris, Eryri

A lovely circuit around the northern ridge of Cader. If I have been up Gau Graig before, it is only once. It lies at the end of the ridge gained from Pen y Gadair. I parked at Ty Nant then took the standard pony path to Rhiw Gwredydd: memories of Ras y Gader, which I have done three times and am doing again next month. From the broad col, the route steepens with a few joggable sections until the rocky final climb: 47 minutes from Ty Nant. This was the best weather of the bank holiday weekend, with cloud peeling away from the ridge and superb views over towards the Rhinogs, Llyn and the sea. I was last here with Morgan almost exactly a year ago, and again I jogged slowly over to Mynydd Moel. This eastern end of the ridge is superb - empty and wild, under big sunny skies. It's a bit boggy in places but leads to the lovely highpoint of Gau Graig, with superb views to Aran Fawddwy and down to the delightful lower slopes around Afon Arran. This is classic Welsh scenery, and gets better down the northerly ridge of Gau Graig which was another unexpected bonus, a lovely route with a clear, twisting path and some rocky steps. At the bottom, a little track is gained then little lanes lead north then west back to Ty Nant through wonderful oak woodland with calling cuckoo.

Moelwynion east

Peaks: Allt Fawr, Moel Druman

Area: Moelwynion, Eryri

It has been so long since I've been up Allt Fawr from the Crimea Pass that I had completely forgotten it. The ridge is delightful, surprisingly well defined, nicely logical. I am guessing that the path is clearer these days - whatever, I enjoyed it and was pleased that the weather was reasonable, cool and cloudy but the tops were clear. There isn't too much climbing above lonely Llyn Iwerddon until the final rise and the views down to Blaenau are interesting. From the top of Allt Fawr, a lovely jog leads past the delightful lakes and pools around Llyn Conglog. I have been this way several times before but usually on long outings and the easy tone disappeared as I ploughed down steeply into the unnamed cwm (the source of the Lledr?) below Moel Fleddiau and Moel Dyrnogydd. It would have been easier to climb the latter than do what I did: descend towards the hidden gorge at the bottom to eventually gain the tiring twisting path that leads back to Crimea.

London Marathon

Race: London Marathon

Time/Position: 2.57.16 (2428 from 40000)

As is often the case, I knew I was undertrained coming into this, my 12th London marathon. No training manual would advise four mountain and road races the week before! Neither would they advise just three longish road runs. So I had no intention of pushing it today, just holding a steady pace and enjoying myself. This I did, and again recorded a negative split - as I did with my 2.53 in 2021. Every single kilometre was between 4.10-4.16, with the vast majority at precisely 4.12. Weirdly, I felt a bit tired at the start, a bit tired in the middle and a bit (more) tired at the end, while never feeling I could have pushed harder. I started at Maze Hill on the green start: going back to my first London in 2001 I can't remember going off this start before. I felt it lacked the atmosphere of Blackheath, but it did mean that the first 5k was all new to me, which was nice. After this I settled in, and the weather was ideal: drizzly rain and chilly temperatures. Despite this, the crowds around the Cutty Sark had returned to pre-covid levels and the atmosphere was brilliant. As ever, this reaches a crescendo at Tower Bridge, which I thoroughly enjoyed and then felt very relieved through the Isle of Dogs as I realised I had the legs for it, despite only three long road runs in training. As it was only six months since the last London, and I contracted glandular fever shortly afterwards, I concentrated on savouring the run in along the embankment.

Horseshoe reverse

Peaks: Lliwedd, Yr Wyddfa, Garnedd Ugain, Crib Goch

Area: Snowdon, Eryri

There was a time when we had something of a spring Snowdon Horseshoe tradition - the late 80s and early 90s. Since then, less common, but this time of year is always best. I did it in reverse today - which I have never done in its entirety before, although all the 'reversed' sections were familiar from various events and days. First comes the Pedol Peris route up Lliwedd and then the direct approach to Snowdon. Lots of low cloud initially, but it was lifting as I slogged up Lliwedd after jogging up the Miners to the green hut. I remembered bits of the racing line up Lliwedd (contouring) but took in both main summits - half an hour from Llydaw. The descent is very awkward, bringing back painful memories of the Pedol, which I've done three times. Lots of rock across Bwlch y Saethau, but the views were now stunning - a day of perfect spring clarity was developing. The direct route up the east face is another Pedol memory, extremely steep with some scrambling. The summit was less crowded than it might have been given superb weather, but a biting easterly may have been some explanation. This got stronger on Garnedd Ugain, where the crowds melted away (9 mins from Yr Wyddfa). Then a real treat, the whole of Crib Goch in reverse (again, familiar as it forms the start of the Welsh 3000s). This was a little windy initially down to Bwlch Goch, and refreshingly empty. Then the wind dropped for the pinnacles and the ridge itself. I have been lucky enough to enjoy this in perfect clarity quite a few times, but it is always special. Not quite as satisfying in reverse, but still good. The descent down to the pyg track is awkward and time-consuming, yet another reason the horseshoe is rarely done this way round! But I got back to PyP in 2.30 (2.07 moving time) which isn't too bad. Then it was the usual relaxing 3k cycle back to my free parking spot just across the Conwy county border: very satisfying.

Ras y Moelwyn

Race: Ras y Moelwyn (15k/900m)

Time/Position: 1.53.02

Yet another personal worst, but I don't really mind because this is a classic route that always provides a memorable experience. I'm not sure times are strictly comparable, as it was probably longer in 2019 and possibly shorter in 2009 (my two previous outings). Also, it was a beautiful spring day and with London approaching all I really wanted was a nice outing in the hills. But suffice to say I have gone a lot quicker than this in the past and didn't feel good today at all: in fact, I felt like I did at the Fron Four last Saturday, slow and sluggish, struggling on both the climbs and the descents. All rather odd, as I am going reasonably well on the road at present. I can't think of a more varied route than this one - from the rugby club up to Tanygrisiau, then through the quarrying landscape of Cwmorthin, up to the steep climb above the highest quarries up to the Moelwyn Mawr ridge. Then comes the mountaineering bit, along the Craigysgafn ridge. I know full well that the racing line heads along grassy terraces to the right, but always lose my nerve and end up with the worst of both worlds. I did the same today: 16 minutes from Mawr to Bach. After this comes the memorably steep descent down a narrow gully to Llyn Stwlan, across the dam wall, then up a short, steep climb to gain the incline across to Moel yr Hydd. From here, a view straight down to Blaenau, but the race route takes the open valley down to Cwmorthin to regain the ascent track for a quick but long return to the rugby club.

Spring 5

Race: Chester Spring 5

Time/Position: 29.33 (33rd from 374 [2nd V50])

The poor weather remained a factor tonight, although as with last year the back-to-back race routine worked reasonably well and I didn't feel too bad for the very fast start down towards Picton. The next stretch, into a headwind, slowed times in these conditions - as did the mud on the farm lanes back to the crossroads. I ended up almost a minute down on last year, so I was lucky to be first Buckley finisher on this, the first in the revived club championships. Always a very competitive race: I'm not sure how many times I've done it over the years, this may be my sixth or seventh running. I ended up winning the V50 prize tonight due to West Cheshire's scrupulously fair age-based prize structure: first time I have won anything at this event, in contrast to Round the Walls and other long-established local classics.

Foel Lus

Race: Foel Lus (5.2k/340m)

Time/Position: 30.02 (25th from 110 [2nd V50])

Dreadful conditions for this evening race, part of the North Wales championships this year. I was around three minutes down on last year's time, and even more on my 2017 course PB. Still, the weather made this memorable and gave a good excuse to take it easy, with tomorrow's Spring 5 in prospect. Capelulo is sheltered, of course, so it was deceptively calm at the start - although also extremely wet, with torrential rain sweeping across the tight valley. Emerging from the zigzags, the wind hit, making life difficult for the double climb up to the summit. This race is all in the descent, however, so the full-on headwind on the initial descent made even downward progress difficult. It turned to a tailwind for the first section of the jubilee walk, although the path was very wet. I got the shortcut that I infuriatingly missed last year - it provides a big advantage, and limited the damage to an extent. Completely soaked to the skin my the finish, after which it was into the river, as usual, minimising muscle damage with tomorrow in mind (although I didn't stop shivering until the Albion).

Fron Four

Race: Fron Four (13.5k/770m)

Time/Position: 1.24 (7th from 25)

Fron is a great place, in the remote badlands above Caernarfon: it reminds me of the Caucasus with its bare mountains, tracks going nowhere, and livestock wandering around the unenclosed landscape. It is also a very distinctive Welsh quarrying landscape, but it takes a while to get to. So I had only done this race once before, in 2017 (although I have also been up here to climb on Craig Cwm Du). I must have been going well in 2017, as I was a massive eight minutes slower today, in perfect conditions (but a small field). Around 10 minutes to the low top of Moel Tryfan, and then a very slow climb up Mynydd Mawr, which is where I suspect most of the damage was done. I had no recollection of this: it is longer and steeper than you would expect. Then comes the slightly arbitrary additional sections, down the first spur to Craig Cwmbychan, then the horrible trackless traverse (which I did remember) to gain the spur down to Foel Rhudd. In the spring sunshine, this was delightful despite my less than frisky condition. Back up to the Mynydd Mawr, and then the long descent, again with disappointingly fading energy levels. I was due a really bad race, and the long run on Wednesday may have something to do with it.

Conwy double 20

The usual last minute London training. I was torn between a loop around Betws and Capel, or a more relaxed outing from Conwy to Llanfairfechan. I opted for the latter given constant rainfall and generally unpleasant conditions, but after Sychnant I infuriatingly missed the bike path westwards from the far end of Penmaenmawr. Instead, I headed back to Conwy with a tailwind then appended an extra loop around Maesdu and Llanrhos to complete the 20 miles. Never felt particularly good.

Nantwich 10k

Race: Nantwich 10k

Time/Position: 36.23 (15th from 998 [1st V50])

As with the Wigan half, this was something of a speculative 'rangefinder'. With very little specific training, I had no idea how I would do, so aimed for around 37 minutes. In the event, I was able to hold a reasonable pace and picked it up for the last 4-5k. Perfect conditions, cool and clear, and a potentially fast course which heads west along Water Lode from Nantwich town centre to take a short loop around Swanley Lane. It certainly seems like something to build on, only 30 seconds down on my Farndon time from last October (although two minutes slower than my 2012 PB!).

Termessos/Guluk Dagi

The wind in Egirdir forced a return to Antalya a day earlier than planned. Not a problem though, as there are plenty of interesting day-trip options. After much consideration, I decided Termessos would work best - but not as part of a £100 tour! Instead, I headed back to the Otogar and got a cramped dolmus to Kortukeli, asking the driver to drop me off by the Termessos road junction. The weather was perfect - although still very windy, sunny, very clear, but cool. It is a 9k uphill haul to even gain the lowest point of the ruins, and without a car I had to walk. This worked well though, as it was the most practical way to get into the mouthwatering mountains that are so obvious from Antalya. The road was extremely quiet, no more than 2 or 3 cars passed. I jogged small sections and reached the ruins in reasonable time, heading through the collonaded street to the spectacular Pisidian theatre, in an unbelievable location at the top of the Gulluk Dagi plateau (just over 1000m). Above, an impressive crag, then the valleys stretching down to the coast. An incredible place, and I had it to myself. Near the agora, I saw a superb black-eared wheatear (and lower down a semi-collared flycatcher). I jogged all the way down, stopping at a little food shack for wonderful home made tarhana soup and cay. At the junction, I stuck out my arm and the first dolmus took me back to Antalya.

Sivri Tepe

Peaks: Sivri Tepe (1719m)

Area: Isparta/Lake District, Turkey

A classic 'signature peak' that dominates the lakeside town of Egirdir, where I was staying. Sivri Tepe translates as 'pointed spire', which is an apt description, albeit hugely exaggerated when approached from the other side (which is the only real route up). I arrived in Egirdir, the heart of the Turkish lake district yesterday afternoon after a really enjoyable eight hour journey from Goreme, very scenic after the big city of Konya. The lakes are all enormous, and there are some very big mountains in this area. Sivri Tepe is certainly not one of them, but it was the only realistic option without a car (and at this time of year). The wind throughout was remarkable - very strong crosswinds continually raking the narrow peninsula on which I was staying. Sadly, overnight the weather generally deteriorated and I had a very tight itinerary in the morning, with my next bus to Antalya leaving at midday. After breakfast at the top of Pension Fulya with stunning views over the Egirdir lake in all directions, I commenced battle with the crosswinds. I jogged up the road, flat at first, and then up towards the village of Akpinar. A continuous series of heavy showers barreled in from the south-west, some quite torrential. At times, they were of sleet and hail although there were also occasional easings. At Akpinar, the route veered north along the St Paul trail, a new long-distance path. This helped but the path was boggy and indistinct in places. I passed a couple of old shepherds (possibly Yoruks - this being something of a stronghold for them) sheltering under trees, and higher up branched off towards the peak itself - still impressive from this southerly angle. The remaining path was narrow and occasionally indistinct but became clearer for the final ascent up slabby limestone and scree. At a vague neck, the wind howled through: very strong, upward progress to the summit a real struggle particularly as a hailstorm blew in at the same time. However, I did get views from the summit down to Egirdir and the vast lake: memorable in this weather, my face raked with the hail. I didn't hang around, and scampered down: once beyond the vague neck/col the wind eased, as did the hail, and the rest of the descent down to the shepherds huts was easier although boggy, with annoying cloying mud, reminded me of the Wychavon Way ultra! It continued soggy, so I took a diversion to a gravel track. This led to Akinpar, after which a clap of thunder and a very black cloud sent me running back at 4 minute kilometre pace all the way back to Egirdir. Once back on the peninsula, the sun came out! I just had time for a shower and a borek/ayran lunch before getting the midday bus to Antalya.

Capaddocian valleys

After arriving in Goreme around 2.30am yesterday morning, I had got my bearings with a walk/jog up towards Uchisar, then down Gullicinlik (Pigeon) Valley, just trying to absorb the famously extraordinary landscape of Capaddocia. This morning, after a stupendous breakfast at the Shoestring cave hotel, I embarked on a longer outing, mostly taken at a gentle running pace. Towards sword valley initially, then through terrain ruined by quad bikes (a total blight on the landscape and ambience). The signage was appalling, and the terrain very complex, so I just followed my nose as the whim took me. This led to what I assume was Rose Valley, with its deep pinks and oranges stretching up towards the high plateau of Hagri Dag. A cave church was at the end of one of these hidden valleys, along with blossoming cherry trees: it was exquisite, and I had it all completely to myself. Down this valley, then up another, before taking the tracks to the village of Cavusin. I bought and drank a bottle of water below the remarkable 'cave city' that towers above the village, then headed down to the main Avanos road. A left turn, then a short road section before branching off towards Love Valley, which I then followed in its entirety, all the way up to Uchisar, the remarkable cave village I had already reached yesterday (it is dominated by a 'castle' formed by a giant pinnacle, a useful navigational aid). This valley, with its phallic 'fairy chimneys' is perhaps the most extraordinary of all, albeit a little less enclosed. Again, blossoming cherry trees added to the ambience (the weather was perfect throughout - deep blue cloudless skies, warm with little humidity. Again, I had it to myself: it has a remote feel in its upper reaches, which is completely deceptive because the road is never far away. The pillars fade, and the top sections reminded me of Utah, 'slick rock' and white canyon walls. I emerged at a pomegranate seller's stall, and then the Uchisar road. Miles away, across the plains, loomed Erciyes Dagi, a giant 4000m isolated stratavolcano peak above Kayseri. Later visited the open air museum with its ancient cave churches, then refuelled with the local speciality claypot kebab.