Tampa

Peaks: Tampa (960m)

Area: Brasov, Romania

A classic urban mountain, Tampa provides a lovely backdrop to the beautiful centre of Brasov and made a perfect mini objective this afternoon. The weather did indeed worsen overnight, with a snowy but highly atmospheric train journey over the Predeal Pass into Brasov and Transylvania proper. Brasov is lower, so there was no snow, but after checking into my room, lots of flurries and absolutely bitter windchill characterised the rest of the day. A running approach seemed sensible, so I waited for a heavy snow flurry to clear then set off in sunshine through the lovely centre towards the set of steps that lead to the 'serpentine', a zigzag path giving walkers access to the summit. This was perfect, suiting a fast approach, and I reached the top in 21 minutes (the Strava segment anyway). I then went east towards the giant Romanian flag, which was awkward to reach and obviously not encouraged. It wasn't the summit anyway, so I headed there next via a viewpoint above the Hollywood style Brasov sign that dominates the city. The main summit is just above, and from here there are great views towards the mountains around Poiana Brasov (Varna for example) bringing back memories of that insanely adventurous 1986 skiing trip! Bitterly cold, with more snow flurries, and it took some time for me to find the descent (I wanted to go down a different way to keep it interesting). But when I did it was superb. The beautiful valley framed by Racadau was in front, but I dropped down the Valea Boului through lovely pine woods. A short contouring section, fast running, and then it was back into the Brasov streets where I extended the run as I was in road shoes, down the quiet Strada Fagetului which my guesthouse was on. Refuelled on magnificant Mititei and fried potatoes at the atmospheric La Ceaun as the snow fell outside.

Sinaia hills

Peaks: Furnica (2103m), Piatra Arsa (2044m), Pintenui Pietrei Arse (1962m), Jepii Mari (2071m), Varful cu Dor (2030m) 

Area: Sinaia, Romania

A trip to Romania during an unseasonably cold snap, unluckily coinciding with perfect British springtime weather. So not the best timing, but after two nights in Bucharest I got the train to Sinaia, which is not formally part of Transylvania, but marks the start of the mountains that encircle it. Looking at the forecast, time was of the essence, as this Saturday looked like the last window of any kind before it got really bad. So the hour long delay at the Gara de Nord, sitting on the train after it arrived from Constanta, was annoying. Still, we made it in to Sinaia around midday, mountains looming all around but particularly impressive to the west. Then came another time delay, as my hotel was well outside the town, so it took a while to ditch my luggage and head back to town - at least 6 or 7k. However, a huge bonus as I realised the cable car was running, very early in the season and presumably because it was a weekend and the last feasible day before the weather changed. So I didn't look a gift horse in the mouth, and took the gondola up the middle station, then the spectacular top cable to Cabana 2000 just below the summit of Furnica. There was a fair bit of snow around, with more threatening, but it looked like showers rather than anything more serious. So I plodded up to Furnica to decide what to do, and what looked feasible. The highest peaks around the much higher Omu, above 2500m, were obviously out, totally plastered in very deep snow and with low cloud covering the plateau. I was only in trail running shoes so hatched a plan based on judgment and experience. I descended the steep slopes north of Furnica, a tiring combination of neve, soft snow and scree. At the bottom, a rolling plateau stretches out so I plodded up to the named peak of Piatra Arsa where I took stock again. To the west, what I took to be the Fagaras range looked wild and wonderful, with black clouds threatening. My route now seemed obvious, so I negotiated a large snowfield, tiring with the occasional soft bit, down to the little conglomerate pinnacle that turned out to be the Pintenui, a mini scramble and a superb viewpoint down hidden valleys like Pelesului right down to my hotel. From here, another snowfield down to a col, and then a lovely narrow path leading through juniper copses high above the Sinaia valley to Jepii Mari. I then more or less retraced my steps but took a direct line across to Furnica, much further east above the valley. The weather was very changeable throughout, and very cold, but nothing compared to what was to come so I extended the day towards the appealing peak of Varful cu Dor further south along the Drum de Vara. This was lovely, albeit marred by ski developments. A steep scramble to the top, for superb views down to Vanturis to the south, pristine forested valleys everywhere, and a galaxy of peaks to the west. Snow showers created spectacular effects as they tracked across the landscape. A wonderful place to sit for a while, but I was getting hungry so it was back to Furnica for the cable car down, where I stopped at the middle station for a magnificent ham and cascaval pancake, made in front of me at a outdoor stall, plus a Timisoreana beer, before getting one of the last gondolas back to Sinaia. 

Glyder Fach direct

Peaks: Glyder Fach

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

Time pressed, which was a bit of a shame as a chilly easterly gave rise to superb clarity of light this morning. I had a yen to revisit the main cliff of Glyder Fach, never the best choice in the morning as it is sunless and slightly grim as you approach through Cwm Bochlwyd. But I set a decent pace and was at the Alphabet Slab in 40 minutes or so. Quite some time since I was last here, although it was once a regular haunt and I have done a lot of the classic climbs here. Nothing like that today, as I scrambled up the side of the slab then took the surprisingly narrow and delicate traverse along its top to sidle into East Gully above the hard section. It was pretty dry and gave pleasant scrambling through the narrow section until it opens out above a capstone. It has the virtue of directness and in fact this entire line is pleasingly direct from the car park - almost arrow straight to the true summit of Fach. Extraordinary clarity: the Isle of Man perfectly clear directly above Nant Francon and Anglesey. The Wicklow Hills, Plynlimon and every Eryri peak all visible - every line and crevice clearly visible. The classic view of the Snowdon group above Castell y Gwynt was most notable, and I traversed the latter before dropping down the Gribin back to the car 90 minutes after starting.

Round the Bays 30k

The reverse, anticlockwise, version of a marathon training run I last did a couple of years ago. This also had some hilly variations, leaving Pabo Lane to head to Glanwydden, and then up the brutally steep Derwen Lane which brings you out at the top of Penrhyn Bay and ultimately the Little Orme. From here, delightful plodding along the Llandudno prom then around the Orme with seals groaning below and fulmars on their nesting sites. I didn't feel particularly brilliant, and had hoped to run a bit further, but I got it done.

Cadair Bronwen

Peaks: Cadair Bronwen

Area: Berwyn

A very pleasant afternoon outing with Morgan, temporarily home from Manchester. The weather was far better in the east, so we took the familiar steep road up from Llandrillo past fields of lambs to the crossroads. It has been a dry March, so the plod up Bronwen was less boggy than usual. A cold wind blew on the summit, -10 windchill according to the forecast. It wasn't that bad but it was still too cold to relax so we descended to Ffordd Saeson and took the contouring path round to join the ascent. We took in Moel Ty Uchaf stone circle on the way down, in a stunning sunburst, perfectly timed, illuminating the hillside. Then a very pleasant, albeit chilly, pint overlooking the Dee at the Grouse in Carrog.

Green Man 'race'

Not really a race, but a pairs event hatched from the fertile mind of John Morris. I remember doing a hare and hounds type event that he organised years ago, following sawdust arrows, and this was similar. It was a pairs event, so Hayley and I teamed up for a very enjoyable trot. I think we got every route choice 'wrong', although they were entirely random, following the arrows on a pointless extra loop, then down a very steep mountain bike track. Excellent fun, and we were first team back to the 'Green Man' (hidden in an obscure part of the woods) in 41 minutes as dusk fell.

Snowdon Horseshoe

Peaks: Crib Goch, Garnedd Ugain, Yr Wyddfa, Lliwedd

Area: Snowdon, Eryri

The classic horseshoe, done the conventional way round this year rather than the more unusual clockwise direction taken last spring. In our late teens, back in the 1980s, we developed a tradition of doing the Snowdon Horseshoe every spring: it didn't last long but it doesn't have to be much to become a 'tradition' when you're young! I've revived it recently - indeed I recall a stunning outing in perfect full winter conditions on St David's Day a few years ago. I moved pretty quickly this morning, up to a breezy Crib Goch summit in 44 minutes (after cycling up to PyP from the Cromlech layby). A wonderful crossing, taking good lines with the ridge almost to myself after passing lots of early starters lower down. At Bwlch Glas I encountered the inevitable crowds so wasted no time, just passing the summit then down to the Watkin Path for a steep descent to Bwlch y Saethau. I had forgotten the quality of the scrambling up Lliwedd if you stick to the crest as it has been quite a few years since I did if from this direction. Then a long and tiring descent from Lliwedd to Llyn Llydaw, on comfortable steps lower down but awkward higher up. Then the final 3k run down the Miners to PyP: a respectable 2.40 for the round (2.21 moving time) which is substantially quicker than when we used to do it as young men!

Capenhurst 5m

Race: Capenhurst 5m (Borders League race 4)

Time/Position: 29.36 (80th from 401)

The standard Capenhurst two lapper, and almost certainly my slowest ever time on a course I have done many times. One of my worst ever finishing positions too, but I'm not too discouraged because this indicates I'm about where I want to be as I begin to ramp up the training en route to my next birthday and new category! I didn't have much of a plan aside from maintaining a good consistent sub-6 minute mile pace. As such, I felt reasonably comfortable and my HR started to drop towards the end, which I'm taking as another positive. Lovely spring weather: cold, crisp and sunny. Always a hyper-competitive field, with around 100 runners going sub-30.

Heswall-Penyffordd

Another one of those 'making marathon training interesting' routes I have thought about for a while. Just before lockdown, I ran from Kinnerton to West Kirby, continuing to Hilbre as a walk. This was considerably shorter at 17 miles, and in reverse, first using the Borderlines train service to my planned start in Heswall. It went pretty well, although I should have just gone direct to the Wirral Way, rather than what I did - which was run direct to Two Mills. Not great, although you can stay off the road. Then it was off down Woodbank Lane (amazingly quiet given its environs) across the border to the Deeside industrial estate. From here, through Queensferry and then it gets hilly, up to Hawarden and through Tinkersdale to Penyffordd and the car at the station.

Moel Fferna-Dee Valley run

Peaks: Vivod, Moel Fferna

Area: Berwyn, Eryri

Another of my occasional exercises in maximising a mountain. In this case, Moel Fferna from Llangollen, quite a lengthy haul with a very long extension back along the meandering course of the Dee. Beautiful early spring weather, which has always been my favourite time of year in the Welsh hills. A bit of haze today, but delightfully still with birdsong as I climbed up onto the bridleway that marks the start of the North Berwyn Way from Llangollen. This is very steep, and very old, and eventually emerges into the upland plateau leading to Vivod: very open ground and always enjoyable running, with lots of space and fairly gentle gradients. I was on top of Vivod in around 41 minutes from Llangollen, so not too bad as it is 6k and almost 2000ft of elevation. I felt pretty good and then really enjoyed the next section of the Berwyn Way through conifer woods and open ground to the top of Moel Fferna, a much more remote hill. I have generally run this the other way round in the past, from Cynwyd, but both directions are great. Big skies as ever from Moel Fferna, which I have hardly ever seen anyone on in more than a dozen visits. The descent to Carrog is wonderful, albeit tricky in places, and I then had to wake the 90-something chap serving in the ancient 'garage' to buy unrefrigerated lucozade and chocolate! Thus fortified, I crossed the Dee bridge below the Grouse Inn and embarked on the long second leg, along the undulating but extremely quiet lanes north of the Dee that eventually lead to Rhewl, then the Horseshoe Falls and back to Llangollen along the canal. Just under 20 miles, so good marathon training quite apart from being another delightful three hour Berwyn loop.

Pendle Round

Race: Stan Bradshaw Pendle Round (15k/600m)

Time/Position: 1.23.30 (60 from 251)

Many years ago, I did the full Tour of Pendle from Barley - I still remember how long and complex the route was. We also did the fell relays here around more recently, still at least a decade ago! So it was a little surprising that hardly any of this classic race rang a bell, although that might just be the ageing process. Whatever, it was a really enjoyable event, which was especially pleasing given the extent to which I have been struggling in the hills recently. I was quite conservative in my approach, perhaps expecting more of a battering by the route and very conscious of recent struggles I've had in fell races - in particular, I'd anticipated a brutal sting-in-the-tail which never really materialised. I started fairly well, and tried to keep a decent pace going over all the way to the trig on Pendle itself, 24 minutes from Barley. Then comes a glorious looping gradual descent down Pendle Moor with Clitheroe far below to the west. This is boggy but really enjoyable with sunny spring-like skies above and classic northern English scenery throughout. Eventually, Apronfull hill is reached before a steep descent via Badger Well to the little lake of Churn Clough. Above this, a very steep climb ended quickly and gave way to contouring across to Stainscomb. Then the final climb up a shallow valley to Driver Height. I began to lose ground here, with at least 10 runners passing me, despite finding it easier than expected. But no matter, I enjoyed the very muddy and awkward descent back down to Lower Ogden and the lane back to Barley. Not a very appropriate St David's Day outing, but I was back on Welsh soil in good time!

Eglwyseg round

One of those long runs that I have filed in the recesses of my mind but never got round to before. With Manchester looming, there is a need to start upping the distances. I've pushed a few 'canal runs' up to around 15 miles over the last few weeks but put this old plan in action this morning, which was almost spring-like at times. I parked at Minera lead mines, interesting in itself, then ran along the lanes to the streets of Rhosllanerchrugog, definitely one of the most fascinating towns in Wales. Through the streets to Pen y Cae and other outliers before negotiating the lanes down towards Garth. At this point the landscape decisively changes from semi-industrial to properly rural, and then when you round the corner you get to the Panorama road. This is always fabulous, and was today, with Dinas Bran glinting in the sunshine - even more springlike. Then came the very long but very enjoyable lanes below the crags of Eglwyseg all the way up to World's End, and then the sharp climb up to the top of Ruabon Moor. Then the lane finally descends to Minera. Hard to know what the best description for this is: a loop or 'round' of Ruabon Moor, or Esclusham, or Eglwyseg, whatever you choose to call the upland area west of Wrexham!

Tejina

Peaks: Tejina (605m)

Area: Tegueste, Tenerife

We left Vilaflor yesterday and travelled along the east coast to Anaga, a place I have long wanted to visit. However, while I was expecting an esoteric destination, far from the Tenerife crowds, it was actually rammed full of tourists (and is not far from the biggest city of Santa Cruz). That said, the lauresilva cloud forest was just what I had expected - similar to its neighbours on Madeira and small parts of Gran Canaria. It is dense and green and moss-covered, very atmospheric. After a night in Tacoronte, I was keen to avoid the crowds so we drove to nearby Tegueste where we had seen a suitable route up the ridge that frames the town and ultimately drops into the sea. The edge of Anaga I suppose, all very green. We walked through the town in wonderful weather, after damp drizzle yesterday afternoon, dazzling blue skies above. Above the town, a small road gave way to a cobbled track, which weaves around the hillside to gain an obvious col/pass with views down to the sea at Punta Hildalgo. Behind, the towns of the north coast with Teide looming spectacularly behind, a constant presence. Closer, typical Canarian scenes of cactus, native flora and the endemic Tenerife lizard with its blue spots. The final section contoured above the valley, mildly exposed in a few places, reaching a further mini-col and then a plateau with superb views of the Atlantic. The sound of the huge rollers was ever-present, despite them being 600m below, and we then went down to watch them closer at Punta Hidalgo with shellfish soup and calamares romana.

Teide

Peaks: El Teide (3715m)

Area: Teide, Tenerife

I can think of very few parallels to Teide. I first saw it from a plane, flying back from the Gambia in 2018. It utterly dominates its landscape in a way few other peaks can match, not even Etna - the most obvious comparison. That first view impressed me so much that a few months later (February 2019) I was on Tenerife to climb it (having long ago done Mulhacen, the highest peak on mainland Spain, along with many other iconic and notable Spanish mountains!). That day, I'd set out in sleet which turned into an extraordinary blizzard and I ended up retreating from below the refuge. I really wanted to put that right, so reserved a summit permit months ago (they are free but have to be booked months in advance to prevent all the cable car types from wandering up to the top). I left Vilaflor at 6.30am, stopping at Las Canadas to experience the night skies before sunrise - stunning, although a very bright full moon. I parked at the same place as last time below Montana Blanca and set out with glimmers of light and the sky glowing to the east. After 15 minutes light jogging, the sun rose casting a stunning glow and illuminating the entire mountain - deep orange and ochre shades of pumice. A ranger checked my permit before I'd even started up the steeper slopes. At Montana Blanca, the track gives way to a zigzag path above the Teide eggs (accretion balls). This is where the blizzard really worsened six years ago. It is relentlessly steep all the way to the Altavista refuge, and my decision then was vindicated by the fact that the zigzags get vague and indistinct towards the top before coalescing again just below the hut. It is also a very steep and relentless haul with awkward lava shelves in places. I reached the Altavista in 90 minutes or so, which isn't bad considering the vertical interval with the altitude now starting to really kick in. This meant the next section through the lava fields to the final summit cone was much slower and harder than it would normally have been. It is known as La Rambleta and it weaves through the lava, less steeply than the lower section to the hut but still fairly draining. Then comes a level section below the summit cone during which I encountered tourists for the first time. I arrived at the little hut controlling access to the summit bang on my ETA just after 9am, a little under two hours from the car - all worked fine although I had to show my passport! And then it was up the final route, Teleforo Bravo to the true summit at 3715m. At this altitude, physical effort really does become noticeably harder and it has been a few years since I was up this high. Still, I got to the true summit in around 2:20 from the road, which is respectable enough. As expected, the views were of the 'helicopter variety' which is always what happens when one peak completely dominates - in some ways the views from the much lower peaks across Las Canadas to Teide are more impressive. But that said, Teide is so high and isolated that the views are just immense. I could see El Hierro beyond La Gomera, as well as La Palma beyond the southern coast. And of course Gran Canaria shimmering across the Atlantic. Closer, the Anaga peninsular was something to look forward to on Saturday. The entire island was visible like a 3D map and the ambience was superb. I also had the top to myself although two Czechs arrived quite quickly. Sulphur clouds and odour reminded me that this is not entirely dormant, although nothing compared to the steaming fumaroles and explosions of Etna or Ijen or Iceland - all three of which I have recent volcanic experience in! After a small snack (no breakfast) I trotted down, breaking into a run as the air got thicker lower down: 3.35 for the entire trip compared to the standard time of 9-10 hours, back by midday to meet Kate in El Tejar. I was, I admit, tired on our subsequent Vilaflor hillwalk!

El Sombrero-Amendro

Peaks: El Sombrero (2405m), Roques del Almendro (2520m)

Area: Teide NP, Tenerife

After arriving in Vilaflor around 7ish last night, we woke to a superb Canarian morning - crystal clarity and perfect temperatures around 15c (bearing in mind that Vilaflor is almost 1500m up, a fact that did not endear it initially to Kate after arrival). On my last trip here in 2019, it was extremely cold, which was possibly the reason I missed the endemic blue chaffinch at Las Lajas. So I made this the first stop, a beautiful picnic area surrounded by Canarian pines, and this time (after a few canaries and the Tenerife subspecies of great spotted woodpecker) I located a blue chaffinch, which was followed by several more, azure in the early morning sun. A brilliant start, and then came a wonderful walk with Kate, the perfect warm-up for my planned assault on Teide tomorrow. The route up El Sombrero left Las Lajas via a path which weaved through the pines - the sunshine wonderful after weeks of cloudy, bone-chilling weather at home. The path passed through a series of side valleys before making its way up a spur and into a more open upper valley above the tree-line. Behind, the ground drops away to the Atlantic - and above, deep blue cloudless skies. Some characteristic Canarian vegetation and then a broad plateau is reached, this being the bare orange rock skyline visible from Vilaflor and below. That skyline is punctuated by a series of outcrops, two of which are called El Sombreror, because that's what their shapes recall. We curved round to take an open stepped chimney to the plateau summit, only slightly raised above the ridge but quite distinct from Vilaflor. The most notable thing though was the breathtaking view of Teide, now visible across the crater. After a break on the top, we moved round and then went to the edge of the plateau for views over the vast crater of Las Canadas with Teide the looming presence beyond. To the right, I could see Alto de Guajara which I did as a consolation prize in 2019 - I remember then the views of Teide above a layer of cloud. We extended the day along the ridge line, and Kate took a break as I continued west along towards Roques del Almendro. I had a vague idea to take in El Sombrerito, but this was clearly more involved (a shatterered ridge and steep gully lay between it and the Roque) so I returned to Kate and we ambled back to rejoin the ascent route. After a sandwich we took in the Roques de Garcia loop, this time with hundreds of tourists (we saw hardly anyone in the morning). Again, contrasting to 2019 when I did the same loop in icy conditions. We had to escape the hordes eventually so went back to refuel on Canarian fodder: queso asado, papas arrugadas, mojo and carne fiesta.

Oswestry XC

Race: Oswestry XC (NW League race 3)

Time/Position: 36.08 (59th from 109)

This may be the last time I ever do a race double header, particularly given that this was only 19 hours after the Dash. There was a time I could cope with it, but even at my best there was always an awareness that performance is compromised. I got to the familiar Oswestry venue from an open day with a few minutes to spare, on a dank, cold and drizzly afternoon. Unlike yesterday, I lost energy throughout the race, and unlike yesterday moved in the wrong direction, with runners passing me throughout the second lap where I slowed to a crawl. There's no hiding place on this course, with its steep climb from the back field and its deep, cloying bogs. My worst ever XC performance, not even in the top half of the field, but I was still (sort of) glad that I'd made the effort. I was inexplicably slightly faster than the last time I did the race three years ago - and on that occasion I finished in the top 25 as 1st V50. Two possible explanations: this course was a bit shorter, or conditions were better than usual today (always relative at Oswestry!).

Dash in the Dark

Race: Dash in the Dark (Race 3)

Time/Position: 29.53 (8th from 102)

With the prospect of cross-country tomorrow, this was intended to just be a cruise followed by the usual chip butty and pint. But because I started casually I actually felt much better than of late, and passed people throughout the race to a quick finish four seconds behind Jez. I still struggled a little on the steeper inclines, but descended fairly quickly and made up a lot of ground on the flat: more extensive tonight as it was the full course (although the route has changed so much over the years that it is rarely quite the same twice). Always very enjoyable evening, and we retired to the Rose and Crown soon after the race.

Conwy fell race

Race: Conwy Mountain fell race (5m/1700ft)

Time/Position: 55.30 (28th from 120)

A beautiful day for my third running of this race, over terrain I know very well. Sadly, even though I was well rested, I really struggled again and am now forced to conclude that my days of doing reasonably well on short fell races are almost certainly over. This was nearly six minutes slower than the time I recorded in 2017, which may have been the first running of it. It is a nice route, albeit rather spoiled by an arbitrary sting-in-the-tail which puts me in mind of 'tough mudders' and other things I don't approve of, as the logical and elegant finish would be straight down from Mynydd y Dref. The start went well, up the bridleway all the way to Allt Wen. Then a muddy and tricky descent, very steep, towards the sea before a long weaving climb up to Penmaenbach via bouldery slopes. I was tiring and losing ground all the way but the views from the ridge compensated. I knew I would lose loads of time on the final detour, and that was indeed the case! Still, a pleasant pint with pork pie in the Albion more than compensated.

Deeside BL

Race: Deeside 7k (Border League race 3)

Time/Position: 26.35 (60th from 366)

Almost certainly my slowest ever time on this familiar route, but I am not too bothered or surprised as it proves my fallow year has worked in the sense that I am fatter and slower! I also have no intention of properly competing in the league this season, just helping the team where I can. Predictably, I really slowed on the Kelsterton hill, which is currently being resurfaced so felt even steeper than normal. I descended reasonably well, albeit unable to hold much speed, and did at least score in 10th place for the team. Some ice on the course, which caused a slight delay as it was being inspected.

Chester parkrun

'Race': Chester parkrun

Time/Position: 19.33 (10th from 451)

Slightly tired after upping the mileage a bit as the fallow year comes to an end, so this was just a plod round before an open day. Huge numbers, so it was slow and crowded in places, hard to overtake lapped runners. Almost certainly my slowest ever time at the Chester parkrun, but that isn't too troubling.

The Horse fell race

Race: The Horse (13k/500m)

Time/Position: 1.13.00 (2nd Team)

This is a brilliant team event that got off to a memorable start two years ago when it was run in hugely atmospheric soft snow. No such weather luck tonight, as recent snow had almost all melted (but I had already enjoyed three superb snowy runs last weekend, deep drifts in places). It was still a brilliant event, in some ways even more enjoyable than last time. As then, I ran with Jez as a 'team'. And, as then, we finished second team by time - although lower via the somewhat complex handicap system! The route is essentially the Cilcain skyline, albeit done in the dark. Over to the Nannerch bridleway and then up to a checkpoint on thr ridge. We took the Tir Gofal traverse line, unsurprisingly muddy throughout, and I began to tire for the steep final climb to Moel Famau, atmospheric in the mist with distant headtorches from rival teams. Then a good but muddy descent, with a variation route down the bridleway and up the pump house climb to finish back at the White Horse for a cosy pint and debrief.

Western Howgills

Peaks: Uldale Head, Docker Knott, Over Sale, Fell Head, Linghaw

Area: Howgills, Yorkshire Dales

Last time I was here was descending into these obscure valleys high above the M6 for high-value checkpoints on the two mountain marathons I've done in the Howgills. I have often gazed up at the tops when driving along the motorway but have never actually approached from the western side. It was a perfect option for M and I this morning en route to Glasgow in crisp sunshine. It was cold, however,  very cold in fact and the little lane from Tebay (just off the M6) was steep and icy, but I calculated it would just about thaw for the return journey. A complex start involved an icy barefoot river crossing, fairly agonising, before a steep zigzag haul up to Uldale Head which had a frozen pond, thick sheets of ice, near the top. Superb view of the hills to come, but then came a steep descent which M didn't enjoy much, losing height before climbing back up Docker Knott and then a gentler pull to the top of Fell Head. This is the main hill in these parts with expansive views to Ingleborough and the Dales, and also across to High Street, Harter Fell and the Lakes. A light dusting of snow, and crisp sunshine, all added to the scene. Then came a really superb descent over a broad ridge to Linghaw back to the car, only marred by the M6 which is otherwise surprisingly unobtrusive. After a pie in Tebay services, we continued to Glasgow via Moffat.

Tal y Fan

Peaks: Tal y Fan

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

Yet another variation loop up Tal y Fan, pleasing that I can still find different routes up a mountain familiar from dozens if not hundreds of ascents over decades. In this case I parked near the water gardens, heading past Tyddyn Mawr to the scout hut and then up through the woods via the Pilgrims Route to Llangelynin Old Church, which looked superb in the morning winter light, the weather far better than forecast. Then came a ferocious headwind, which made the climb to Tal y Fan really hard, particularly with sore legs after yesterday's plunge. At the top, superb views over the Conwy Valley with the sun peeping out of cloud layers and glinting off the river in wonderful soft light. The descent was still into the wind, but I took the direct route down from the stile reaching the road from the summit in 12 minutes. Then I took a circuitous route back via Maen y Bardd, the superb neolithic burial chamber I think I have only found once before. Steeply back down via the edge of Rowen to Gwern Borter and the car.

Jubilee Plunge

Race: Jubilee Plunge

Time/Position: 13.46 

An eight year gap since I last did this event, for the very good reason that it cripples me for around a week. This despite the fact that it is 3.5k in total. Having said that, it is completely unique and hugely enjoyable. In the past I have done it from Cilcain, jogging over then hills and then back. Today I drove to Llangynhafal and plodded up to the start on top of Moel Famau, which takes around 40 minutes! Some mist on top, and a bit chilly, but generally conditions were good. I started too slow, which is not advisable on this race. This meant it was difficult to really open up on the initial very steep drop from Famau, particularly with a fairly big field. Just below Moel Dywyll, the route kinks left and plummets down perfect grassy slopes to reach the lane in 10 minutes. I remember taking a short cut across fields here, but now the route goes down the road before two or three muddy fields lead down to the finish at the Golden Lion. I was annoyed to finish over a minute slower than my previous times for the route.

Round the Walls

Race: Round the Walls (4m)

Time/Position: 24.58 (25th from 553 [1st V50])

Almost a minute and 11 places down on last year, but I was still quite pleased with this outing, perhaps the 15th time I've done the race. The same course as we have enjoyed for the last few years, a really satisfying loop which takes in the full walls anticlockwise. The Roodee was very boggy this year, which will have had some effect on times, and the weather was foggy, cold and damp. Pleased to win my age category, something I've managed a few times at this, one of my favourite races and one of the oldest in the region. Kate and Morgan enjoyed it too.

Bronwen via Wayfarers

Peaks: Cadair Bronwen

Area: Berwyn

A shorter than usual pre-Christmas outing this year, but at least we continued to observe the tradition. It was a very enjoyable repeat of a route I first did last winter, a route which minimises the bog. Minimises, not eliminates, of course. I set off from Llandrillo with Jez and Hayley, up the familiar steep track which leads to the crossroads and is very boggy at this time of yeat. Instead of turning right for Bronwen, we continued up the Wayfarers Pass, which is a continuous 6.5k climb from the village. It was cold at the pass, so we put on extra layers and then embarked on the long boggy section over the hills to Bronwen. This became increasingly snowy until there was a good layer on the tops. A biting windchill on the summit of Bronwen, so we ploughed down to the col and then took the contouring, boggy tracks all the down to a detour up to the stone circle, Moel Ty Uchaf. We warmed up in front of the fire at The Bridge.

Prestatyn parkrun

'Race': Prestatyn parkrun

Time/Position: 19.18 (3rd from 90)

Into the inevitable headwind, supposedly 40mph, on the outward leg this morning. It didn't quite have the impact I had expected, however, and soon turned to a tailwind as we headed back east. The finish was tougher, of course, back into the wind, and I got beaten into third place right at the end. Only half a minute down on my best time for the course, so not bad in the circumstances.

Castleton skyline

A delightful Peak District walk with M after arrival in the hostel. We headed direct up small paths to the stone pavement that leads steeply to Lose Hill - sunny but a biting northerly, very cold. We walked along the Great Ridge all the way to Mam Tor, one of England's finest, easiest and most popular hill walks, far more familiar to me from classic fell races like Edale Skyline and Tour of Bradwell. Down to Mam Nick, across the fields to Winnats Pass, and then along to Cave Dale, which I remembered from the Tour of Bradwell and wanted to show M. A nice sheltered contrast to the ridge. Then back via the village. Next day I woke before dawn and ran the same route to Mam Tor, taking variation descent paths.

Glyder Fawr max

Peaks: Glyder Fawr

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

One way of maximising a mountain! After a light breakfast I set off running from Pant y Fron, with the vague intention of breaking 30 minutes to Pen y Pass. The last time I ran this way was probably the Snowdonia Marathon almost 20 years ago. I would be surprised if I did it more quickly then, as I felt quite good this morning. It is pretty steep in places, but conditions were good, dank and misty and empty of traffic at this hour in December. My companions got the bus from Nant Peris and we met at PyP (precisely 28 minutes from the hut) where I changed into my mountain clothes and put my road shoes in the sac they had brought up for me! A novel start, and then it was into the slog from PyP. This is boggy and quite unpleasant, most familiar to me from the descent on Pedol Peris (and the 1000s). It led to a rather icy summit with some old snow - very cold feet as I only had my fell running shoes on. A spectacular clearance over Nant Francon as we descended to Llyn y Cwn, then Emma, Peter and I dropped down direct to the Pass. This path is easy at first, then surprisingly awkward and steep - I had only taken it once before.

Pedol Marchlyn

Peaks: Carnedd y Filiast, Mynydd Perfedd, Elidir Fawr

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

The little horseshoe works perfectly as a pre-hut night outing, so I deployed it again today as I only had a few hours of daylight left on arrival in Deiniolen. I usually start from the village but this time drove up the Marchlyn road and started higher. From here, it is quick progress up the unsightly tarmac road towards the lakes. At the end, a steep curving climb gains the pass overlooking Ogwen. Then it was into the clag for the awkward rocky haul to Carnedd y Filiast, just over 40 minutes from the car. Then the flat jog across to Perfedd before taking the direct shortcut to Elidir. I lost enough height here to emerge from the cloudbase temporarily. From the summit I dropped down in a fairly direct line through the scree to gain the grassy lower slopes, which are very runnable and enjoyable. Around 1.20 for the circuit, and then another convivial evening at the hut.

Dash in the Dark

Race: Dash in the Dark, race 2

Time/Position: 28.25 (7th from 68)

As my fallow year comes to an end, I have eased off the races and sessions even more, but this little race always represents a decent lung-buster to jolt me out of my torpor. I have done many variations of these nighttime races over many years, since they started in fact, and today was different again. I would never be able to recreate any of them, such is the complexity of the Llandegla forest with all its twists, turns and micropaths. I started conservatively but did pick up quite a few places during the race, which is always a positive sign. And I enjoyed it, which is another. Excellent beer and chip butties at the Rose and Crown, as Storm Darragh began to gather force outside.

Callow

Race: Callow fell race (8.5k/880m)

Time/Position: 1.15.20 (29th from 68)

This must be a contender for the hardest short fell race in the UK. Long Mynd Valleys (which I've done twice) is the famous race in these parts, but that is much longer and takes a while to build up to its brutal climax. In contrast, Callow gets to grips with it immediately. Little Stretton is absurdly picturesque, and the race starts from the beautiful valley (Ashes Hollow) which I remembered from the South Mynd Tour, one of many Shropshire races I have done. Not Callow though, so it was nice to finally put that right. After a short run up the valley, the race kicks right up steep pathless terrain which doesn't relent until the top of Ashlet, which is so obvious from the village. We had a wonderful little weather window for the race, and the views from sunlit Ashlet over to Caer Caradoc were superb - a tough contouring descent led down to Townbrook before entering another of the tight valleys that characterise this area. Then comes a savage climb up the front of Yearlet, long and draining. The descent into the top part of Ashes Hollow sadly gives no respite as it is extremely steep and awkward. After a brief run along the valley bottom (some locals had better lines than me here) you are into the next climb, brutally steep up the eastern slopes of Grindle. This hill is appropriately named, and the attrition really kicks in on this grinding climb. Took a bad line on the descent alongside the leading lady, culminating in thickets of impenetrable gorse. A few minutes relief down a very tight and awkward valley led to the final climb up Callow, where I started to lose places in earnest. A fast finish from the top of Callow to the edge of Little Stretton. A very memorable outing, and it started to rain the second I crossed the finish line!

Cwm Glas horseshoe (classic)

Peaks: Crib Goch, Garnedd Ugain

Area: Yr Wyddfa, Eryri

A return to Cwm Glas four days after my last visit, although this time prospects for an inversion seemed even better. The opportunity to do Crib Goch in a full cloud inversion was too good to miss, so I headed up towards Cyrn Las then took the very faint paths that lead to the boggy ground above Dinas Mot. I was aiming for the North Ridge of Crib Goch, and eventually located the horrible steep scree that leads up to the ridge itself. The mist was very thick, the weather dank and dreary, but I was growing increasingly confident about the conditions. The North Ridge gets narrow at the top, narrower than Crib Goch proper in fact, and was greasy and damp in the clag. Then, at the exact moment I arrived on the summit, I poked through the cloud: an absolutely stunning moment, one of the most memorable single experiences I have had in almost 40 years in the Welsh mountains. From then on, the day was stupendous: the narrowest part of the ridge was clear, then a layer of cloud framed Yr Wyddfa and Garnedd Ugain beyond. The Glyderau poked through, but in all other directions a sea of cloud. Even more remarkably, because it was still early I had it all to myself. The early part of the ridge was truly unforgettable, as occasional wisps of mist lapped over me then dissipated. I took the crest to maximise the impact, then traversed the first pinnacle. The exposed move up the final pinnacle had only just emerged from the clag so was damper than the rest, and then it was briefly back into the mist at Bwlch Goch before emerging into the light. The remainder of the ridge to Garnedd Ugain was stunningly clear, the sun higher up now, Yr Wyddfa glistening above a bank of cloud. I had a tremendous brocken spectre, my shadow framed against the shadow of the ridge itself and projected onto the cloud bank with rainbow halo. After a memorable few minutes on top of Garnedd Ugain I jogged back towards the Cyrn Las ridge that I had ascended on Monday. A triple 'glory' at one point, projected onto the cloud bank where Llanberis would ordinarily have been. More amazing effects over Cwm Glas and then it was back into the damp clag down Cyrn Las with some wet scrambling initially. I've been visiting Eryri very regularly since 1988, hundreds if not thousands of outings, but this was right up there as one of the most memorable days I have ever had in the Welsh mountains.

Elidir Fawr

Peaks: Elidir Fawr

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

I had originally planned a short Lakes break this week, and the weather was looking promising, but in the end circumstances dictated a short outing after a dental appointment in Flint. So it was mid-afternoon by the time I set out for this 'speed' outing up Elidir from Dinorwic. It has been at last a decade since I last did Pedol Peris but I jogged along to start what I remembered of that route up Elidir, the twisting quarry road as opposed to the direct ramp up the cable. This went reasonably well, and I got to the open hill fairly quickly. The weather was glorious: blue skies and perfect clarity, and I was on the summit in 40 minutes. Then came the real business of the day, to try to set some kind of time for the direct descent from summit to road, if only because it is all so obvious from the Vags hut directly below. It is rocky and awkward at first, but then eases a little (although always steep) to grass and bog before the lower section down a track: a few seconds over 19 minutes and an effort I inevitably paid for with aching quads two days later. A painful hobble back through the quarries in beautiful low sunlight.

Cwm Glas horseshoe

Peaks: Garnedd Ugain, Yr Wyddfa

Area: Snowdon, Eryri

Another of my crowd-avoiding variants up Snowdon, this was really just an attempt to give myself a cloud inversion opportunity. It is a game of chance, however, and I didn't win today (despite the fact that superb conditions prevailed a day or two ago). The Cyrn Las ridge is always a nice option, I remember first doing it in the 1980s when it felt like we were pioneers of the route. It is a bit more popular these days, indeed some people call it the Cwm Glas ridge, which isn't a bad description either, although I think of it as the former given the prominence of that crag as you ascend. I was tired after yesterday's race so it was slow, plodding progress into the mist. Sadly that mist stayed thick all the way up the ridge, through the scrambly sections, and up Garnedd Ugain. No hope of a clearance, but I carried on to the top of Snowdon anyway - no inversion, just damp clag, so I scampered down the Pyg track, tiring badly, and then cut down the craggy hillside towards Dinas Cromlech. There's a reason few people do this - it has several awkward crags and is generally arduous, but it does effectively cut the corner avoiding Pen y Pass.

Delamere trail half

Race: Delamere trail half marathon

Time/Position: 1.32.29 (4th from 479 [1st V50])

After winning my category at the Nantwich 10k a couple of years ago, I have kept something of a streak going: with prizes of a free entry to any of the RunThrough events, I followed up with more age category wins at the Ladybower Trail half and then the Carsington Water Trail half. This was in the same mould but much closer to home in Delamere. As with all these races, there's a large field of leisure runners but the routes are actually really good and very enjoyable. Some of the racing pressure is off, and I am still cogniscent of the fact this is my fallow year, so I took it gently, at least at first for the spiralling climb up Old Pale. From the top, no time to enjoy the views on a rather murky but mild and still autumn day. The route then commences on a tortuous route through various sections of Delamere, much of which was familiar, much of which wasn't. From the top, it headed down familiar tracks towards Manley Common, occasionally on the Sandstone Trail route, and then it curved back east towards Hatchmere before looping Blakemere Moss, like the parkrun, before another tortuous detour led to the finish. It was enjoyable throughout, quite muddy in places, steep in others, twisting in others. I gradually made my way through the field, and was alone at the end, although well behind third place.

British fell relays (Yorkshire Dales)

Race: Fell Relays leg 3 (12k/600m)

Time/Position: 1.45 (98th)

Back at the fell relays for the first time since 2017 or 2018, captaining Buckley's team this year. A beautiful location for it, at Appletreewick in Wharfedale, and a very enjoyable day for our team of six. That said, Huw was carrying an injury for our nav leg and really suffered, and we did finish much lower down the field than in our previous six times at the event (I have been the only 'ever present' since our first when it came to the Clwydians in 2007). It's always great to watch the top teams finish their legs, and it was particularly spectacular this year as the start and finish was up a brutally steep hill. Andy, Bonj and Simon had got us off to a good start on legs one and two. The day had brightened up after a dank and claggy start and was now superbly clear, luckily enough for us on the navigation leg. The start headed up the very steep hill common to all legs, before picking up the map at a farmhouse and then heading off across featureless moorland to the first checkpoint. The terrain was hard, minimal climbing but tussocky and boggy underfoot. We headed towards the fence a little too early but corrected ourselves and then headed to distant checkpoint two, right out to the north. This was hidden in a sinkhole, but we'd already seen checkpoint three near a small lake so picked that up easily before the long next leg - for which we took a good line contouring awkward terrain to drop down into the steep valley of the Dibb. A really steep descent - indeed all of this terrain was a nightmare for Huw, who was really struggling to maintain any kind of pace. Then came an extremely steep climb back out and a long circuitous section to pick up the three or four checkpoints around the Dibb valley. Moving slowly but at least we got our lines bang on, and then it was a cruel out-and-back over Kail hill, awful again for Huw but we had no real choice aside from lower contouring, before finishing back down the steep descent. Our worst ever team performance but still a really enjoyable day, complete with chilli and local pale ale in the barn, and then a pint at the superb Craven Arms.

Eirias Park XC

Race: Eirias Park, North Wales XC League 1 (8.3k)

Time/Position: 33.42 (45th from 152)

Despite the lowly position, this was a rather pleasing performance and very enjoyable by cross-country standards: the first fixture of the new season. I had never done the course before, and it takes three and a half large loops round the edge of Eirias Park with sea views in places. I was relatively conservative, mindful of my total lack of recent training in my rest year, but was pleased to find I had decent legs and felt reasonably strong. I moved slowly through the field albeit well off the pace, and almost caught Jez at the end. Surprisingly dry underfoot and a classic XC course with a great blend of steep hills, woods and fields.

Runcorn BL

Race: Norton Priory 5m (Border League race 1)

Time/Position: 30.07 (79th from 440)

With no designs on trying to retain my V50 title from last season, this was just a case of making up the numbers. So I was pleased to be 8th scorer for Buckley, as I really felt the lack of training on this one. It started in Norton Priory on the edge of Runcorn then ran around old tracks to gain the canal which was familiar to me as it is also taken by the Phoenix parkrun. I felt quite fresh at the start, which was unusually frantic, a downhill pelt through mud on a very narrow path. Staying upright was key, and the paths remained fairly tight for the size of field. Later, the canal led to a reverse of the parkrun route and then a second lap, on which I really felt the pace but didn't completely blow. Way down the field, and only good enough for 5th V50, but perhaps not as bad as I had feared.

Chester parkrun

'Race': Chester parkrun

Time/Position: 18.52 (11th from 372)

As with everything else this fallow year, I don't want to atrophy completely so thought I should do the parkrun by way of a range finder before next weekend's border league opener. I didn't time the event or look at my watch, so was pleasantly surprised to go under 19, not too bad given that I have been resting from racing since March.

King John's Castle

Race: King John's Castle fell race

Time/Position: 51.01 (4th from 46)

A route change this year marked Amanda's first year of organising it. This added a considerable amount of climbing to what was previously a fast and runnable course. I've only done it twice before, finishing second in 2015 and third in 2022, so this was very much on trend! The usual opening climb towards Moel Gyw, then the always enjoyable descent before contouring round the side of Moel y Plas before heading straight up the eastern slopes of that hill, completely pathless. A small group of three formed, and I descended reasonably well before struggling on the steep OD climb to the col below Moel Gyw. A decent descent and then it was just the flat-out road blast to the finish, with me around half a minute in front of 5th, but well behind 3rd.

Elidir Fawr

Peaks: Elidir Fawr

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

Another gourmet night at the hut, but I didn't really fancy climbing in the Pass with limited time this afternoon, so Steve and I set off for this short outing up Elidir from the front door of Pant y Fron. We adopted a loping stride/slow jog pace up to Twill Mawr (where a team were on the astonishing Quarryman). Then we took the cableway slab/incline thing all the way to the top of Australia. This is steep and leads to slate steps, really atmospheric, a unique way of gaining lots of height. I'd done it before, but this felt fairly quick. Then we joined the Pedol Peris route up the grass, and up to Elidir Fach before taking the ridge (which I rarely do) to the true summit, where I waited for Steve in cold and windy conditions, the cloud base just flirting with the top. Always one of my favourite views. We then descended direct to the hut, superbly satisfying, down one of Snowdonia's most notorious slogs (a crucial part of the 3000s as well as the Elidir race). I don't think I have ever descended this before, and it is surprisingly comfortable: 28 minutes from summit back to the hut at a very gentle jog.

Swakopmund running

After arrival in Namibia almost a week ago, we walked to the end of the little ridge above Sasa Safari Lodge in a wonderful location outside Outjo. After three days in Etosha (including a 5k run round the Okakuejo camp) we made our way down to the Atlantic Coast where the temperatures were 20C+ cooler than the interior! So I took advantage today with an 11k run through the unusual (to say the least) town of Swakopmund, returning along the coast, struck by the extreme contrast between its manicured neatness and the nearby Skeleton Coast.

Carneddau from Gerlan

Peaks: Yr Elen, Carnedd Llewellyn

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

The forecast this morning was grim, so I was planning a short outing above Aber. But driving into Conwy it seemed far better, windy and cool with cloud around the tops, but dry. So I carried on and parked at Gerlan where I had a vague plan to go up Yr Elen from Bethesda (up the west ridge rather than down it). Up the familar lanes to the boggy track up into Cwm Llafar, and then across the bog towards the end of the Elen ridge at Foel Ganol. This does become very steep in places, particularly towards the top, but it emerges right on the summit (less than an hour from Gerlan). Windy and cold, with cloud playing around the tops, but I felt reasonably good and it seemed rude not to continue to Llewellyn, so I did. Nicely down the ridge and then a direct line to the summit in 10 minutes or so. Light mist on the top, which I had to myself again. Then down the normal Carneddau motorway towards the Black Ladders before breaking off for the pathless descent into the top of Cwm Llafar. This is a superb place, and I emerged right below Ysgolion Duon/Black Ladders, looking up to the two winter gully climbs I have done here (Central and Eastern) with a slight shudder (we did Central Gully in dreadful conditions in January 2010). Ahead, Llech Ddu and its spur. It must be one of the best locations in Eryri, and it would be nice to camp here some time. The run down to Gerlan was into a headwind, but quite enjoyable at a sustainable jog. Back to the bunkhouse around 1.55 after starting, which didn't seem too bad for 14k/1000m or so, given how boggy it is in places.

Rhydycroesau fell race

Race: Rhydycroesau fell race (5.5m/800ft)

Time/Position: 38.11 (6th from 37)

Surprisingly perhaps, I have stuck to the ethos of the 'fallow year', this being my first race since the start of July. As such, I was quite pleased to feel reasonably good (although completely lacking any speed) for this runnable event, more of a trail race than a fell race. I did the previous incarnation of the Rhydycroesau race many years ago - from memory it was similar in style but went up the opposite side of the valley. This new version leaves the delightful village show and heads up little lanes to a track passing the England-Wales border stone. Above this is the highpoint of the race above the Pen y Gwely reservoir. Then after a little loop it rejoins the ascent for a fast descent back to the show. K and E had joined me, so we walked to Cefn Canol for a warm down.

Foel Lwyd

Peaks: Foel Lwyd

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

Since my embarrassingly recent 'discovery' of Nant y Coed above Llanfairfechan I have resolved to make up for years of neglect by exploring the routes up onto the Carneddau from here. This was just a short outing but excellent, taking part of the coast path which we did last December. It more or less reversed that route, climbing up the hillside from Terrace Walk, rounding Carreg Fawr, and emerging at familiar territory, the Drum crossroads onto the Roman Road. This is easy angled up to Bwlch y Ddaefaen, after which I ploughed up the very steep climb to Foel Lwyd (which is always embedded in my memory as the last real climb of our 'Sea to Sea' in 2018). It was hard today too, and I had no wish to extend to Tal y Fan. The weather was better than forecast, a few light spots of drizzle. After the steep descent I cut down to the valley of the Afon Ddu which leads all the way down to Nant y Coed but is tortuous at the top, with no real human path through the gorse. Below, it gets better, and quite beautiful as it descends to the native woodland with the Menai Strait beyond.

Malpas 100m loop

It must be at least nine years since my last 'imperial century' ride, but as this was always intended to be one of my intermittent 'cycling years' I didn't want to end it without at least one 100 miler. That said, aware of that time gap since the last one and my general lack of cycling prowess, I knew it had to be flat. And there was another concept at play today - I wanted to do a form of time trial for the first 50k, and keep this going to a lesser extent until 50 miles had been done (and then just keep going at a slower pace). It all worked perfectly and ideal conditions helped too. I left home before 7am for the familiar start to Saltney Ferry and then on to the westbound cycle path to Shotton. Then all the way through Blacon to the end of the cycle path in Guilden Sutton before starting south through Waverton to Aldford and then Farndon, where I notched up the 50k in 1.55. I was desperate for a wee, so lost time doing that before heading up the surprisingly lengthy climb to Malpas, the far-end of the planned route. Back down the hill to Bangor, where (after notching up 50 miles in a little over 3 hours) I finally stopped properly for cheese sarnies and a drink at the co-op. Nice riding through to Holt, although I didn't stop at this traditional cycling crossroads, instead heading for home via Rossett and the climb to Shordley. Having no wish to fully extend the route into the hills, I then cycled into Westminster Park for a pastry, and back onto the cycle path from Sealand Road. Another loop, all the way round to Blacon and then Saltney Ferry before finally notching up the imperial century in 6.30 with some extra bits along familiar home roads.

Tremadog climbing

Routes: Scratch (VS 4b.4c:sec), Great Western/The Quakermen/Peutery combination (HVS 5a, 4a:sec)

Crag: Craig Pant Ifan, Tremadog

When it comes to climbing, I am not so much rusty as entirely corroded, having done hardly any since Covid. So I was inevitably a passenger today, although it was still an enjoyable outing with Peter and Vic. We started off with the standard VS of Scratch, nicely delicate on the first pitch (which I have led before), then a contrastingly steep and awkward crack, which i followed Peter up. After abbing down for lunch, we did a combination of three routes further left. I may well have done this combo before too: I've certainly done Great Western before. I followed Vic up this - a muddy groove leads to twin cracks. I found these very awkward indeed, particularly as it was a bit damp. Then an easing before another hard and steep corner leads to a stance on Poor Man's Peuterey, which I have done at least twice. It was quite breezy for the wonderful step right on to the arete, aided by huge holds, and then the delightful easy slab to the top. Felt weak and unconfident throughout, inevitable really, and there was no chance of me leading anything. But it was a nice day, and we finished with a pint at the excellent Pengwern in Ffestiniog.

Conwy-Chester+ ride

An attempt to link the region's best pubs, going from Conwy to Chester via an indirect 'interior' route (although I didn't actually go in any of them!). Another time, perhaps, for the wet version. Joining Kate on her commute, I set off from Bodlondeb at 8.30am, going across the river and then up through Junction to Mochre and Colwyn Bay via Pabo Lane. Then the delightful riding along the seafront with a light tailwind all the way to Rhyl. The weather was ideal, less hot than of late, but dry with light south-westerlies. I went through the middle of Rhyl for the first time in years, and then through Rhuddlan to a break for a pie at St Asaph Greggs! If the bike could talk, it would no doubt remark on the fairly extreme contrast between the Tourmalet, Lers, Aspin etc, less than a fortnight ago, and certain parts of today's route. Then it was Lower Denbigh Road up the 'S Bends' (again for the first time in decades, it used to be my school bus journey). From Bodfari, I took the peaceful lanes all the way to Llanbedr DC passing the Golden Lion in Llangynhafal (a bit of a headwind throughout). Then comes the route's main climb up the hairpins to the Clwyd Gate, like a miniature Pyrenean col, although ruined by roadworks today. From the top, it is easy down to the side road to Llanarmon yn Ial, and then undulating down the lovely lanes (via the Rose and Crown) to Treuddyn. Then came the fast descent and little climb to Penyffordd. I stopped off at home for a brief refuel and then took Lache Lane into Handbridge. At the Old Dee Bridge (close to the Tap), I turned south for Eccleston into a mild headwind. Down to Pulford and then over the border to Lavister and home: 110k, just under 1000m ascent, just over four hours, very varied.

Tryfan

Peaks: Tryfan

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

Third time lucky for EE on Tryfan, and we chose a very nice morning albeit a little too hot and humid at times. We took the steep climb into Cwm Tryfan, then walked up to join the side path which leads up to Bwlch Tryfan. From here, I think she enjoyed the occasional little scrambly steps which lead up to the tiny ridge below the summit. It is never quite the same route twice. A fairly crowded summit, which displeased her, but we had a nice break before descending via the direct scree path to Llyn Bochlwyd and then curving round towards Milestone Buttress. A helicopter was ferrying rocks presumably to improve the path here, which has always been muddy and is now becoming increasingly wide and eroded.

Plo del Naou

Peaks: Plo del Naou (1754m)

Area: Aspin, Pyrenees

The strange name of this summit is presumably a prime example of the local dialect. This was just a short 8k jog from the Col d'Aspin but a wonderful way to finish the trip. There seemed the prospect of getting above the mist (the col was enveloped as I had my coffee) a classic Pyrenees cloud inversion, but I couldn't have hoped for a more perfect set of circumstances. I took a jogging approach and was up in less than 30 minutes. A broad ridge leads to a grassy and delightful summit ridge and I could see telltale signs of the sun trying to break through the mist. Just below the top, I broke through. A stunning bank of cloud over the Aure valley with the high peaks of the Bearn and the Spanish frontier crystal clear above: quite incredible. I have been lucky enough to experience cloud inversions quite a few times, and can still remember the thrill when we broke through the mist on our first visit to the Pyrenees in 1993, but it is always wonderful and memorable. Ahead, the Montfaucon was impressive, with a picturesque flock of sheep with their clanging bells in the foreground. I descended towards the Horquette and then picked up a contouring path to complete a little loop and rejoin the ascent above the col. Then came the drive home, in one continuous and lengthy journey (two short naps!). Including the Auvergne, the French trip encompassed 20 different summits, six of which were Pyrenean 3000ers done in the last week. It also encompassed seven (or 6.5) major Tour cols (Aspin, Tourmalet, Port, Lers, Azet, Ancizan) and four minor ones earlier in the trip. More notably, between 11,000 and 12,000 metres of elevation gain (on foot and bike) since last Wednesday, perhaps 38,000ft.

Horquettes d'Ancizan ride

I really was tiring by now, and had sealed the bike away in the van. But after a magnificent lunch and coffee I began to think I might have one more col in me. Imprudent, perhaps, but at least I sensibly chose the easiest option - the Horquettes d'Ancizan from the Payolle side, which I felt would be the kind of tranquil and relatively gentle climb I could handle in my compromised state. The Horquettes essentially runs parallel to the Aspin and is a more recent addition to the Tour but I had loved my visits to the meadows of Payolle and my night on the Col d'Aspin so thought a revisit would make a great coda to the trip. So I drove over and started up through the meadows of Payolle. As it was mid-afternoon, it was now very hot and the sweat poured off me as the road kicked up through beautiful woodland. Above the woods, the sun beat down and I had to stop briefly - even on relatively gentle slopes. Above, a hairpin looked steep. As it happened, it got easier above the hairpin and I had something of a second wind. Then came a short but welcome descent to the upper pastures with fabulous views up to the Pic de Montfaucon. Ultra tranquil riding remained, steepish in places but generally steady up to the Horquette itself (apparently a local name for 'col'). Nice views down to the valleys on both sides, and up to the gentle hill I planned to do tomorrow morning (Plo del Naou). A relaxed and comfortable descent down to a rather muddy and shallow river bath before heading back up to the Col d'Aspin, where I coincidentally found myself parked right next to Sian and Dafydd Roberts from Coed y Brenin.

Peyresourde-Col d'Azet ride

Back on the bike this morning. I was spoiled for choice, as you might expect in one of the global epicentres of cycling. As I kept seeing TdF signs for the Col d'Azet I thought I should incorporate it. After another nice night between the two rivers in Fabian, I started off after coffee and croissant in St Lary for an easy, relaxing start along the valley to Arreau. I turned right towards the Peyresourde, a famous TdF col, frequently used, and another one of my target climbs. This takes some time to properly get going, and by the time it did I was already tiring. It is not particularly hard, but after the first third of it (or a little more), just below Loudervielle, I took a side road towards Genos. Magnificent views up to the mountains at the head of the valley, with the Col d'Azet obviously a hard and steep climb to get back to St Lary. My decision to curtail the Peyresourde was vindicated as I was clearly starting to feel the effects of the last few days. As it turned out, Col d'Azet is notoriously steep, an archetypal Pyrenean col. From Genos it looms up fairly savagely, with consistently steep and tight 10% hairpins that go on for some time, multiple switch-backs. Fortunately, however, it is fairly short, and after the treeline it levelled out a little. The view back to the Peyresourde was exhilarating, and the col itself was a superb place to be in yet more glorious weather. It is a very well defined high col, with views to the mountains ahead and down to the deep valleys on both sides. After a break, I pelted down to St Lary, another wonderful experience retracing Tour steps. This starts fast but then has some very awkwardly steep and tight sections as it passes through little villages (like Azet itself) en route back to St Lary. In time for lunch again - this time it was tuna cake, pork with pepper sauce and profiteroles. This restored enough energy for me to at least consider an additional late afternoon ride.

Neouville peaks

Peaks: Pic d'Estaragne (3006m), Pic de Campbieil (3173m), Pic de Lentilla (3157m)

Area: Neouville Massif, Pyrenees

The concept behind this Pyrenees trip was to alternate cycling with basic mountaineering, and so it was up into the Neouville Massif for a bit of the latter this morning, a corner of the Pyrenees that I had never visited. I knew in advance that the obvious problem with the concept is that the two disciplines are just too similar (in terms of physical demands) to allow for much recovery. When I have done mountain trips with Vic or Steve we typically alternate mountaineering days with low level rock climbing, which is a much more sensible balance. That said, I felt fine today, not too tired at all despite the altitude. I drove from Fabian up into the Neouville Massif, a stunningly beautiful national park, in stupendous weather - almost impossible clarity of light, zero haze and not a cloud in the sky. I had coffee and a light breakfast from my van (I parked well below Lac Long right next to the start of the route up the first peak, Pic d'Estarange) and then started off. The route heads into the deep valley of the Ruisseau d'Estarange with Pic Mechant towering above. A delightful place of wild flowers, streams and meadows. At the top, a steep climb led into a hidden upper valley, a much wilder place with empty bowls of rock and moraines all around. A complex climb led up to the right, steeply, before traversing back left below rather loose looking walls (I saw a small rock fall at one point). The Estaragne ridge line was high above, but the route continued traversing until climbing awkward scree and a few slabby scrambling steps to move back right to gain a very shallow arete up to the summit. At the other end of the arete, the Grand Pic des Alharisses was impressive although lower. From the summit of Estarange, a stupendous view of the next peak, Campbieil, with multi-coloured rock and a classical pyramidal shape plunging down to verdant meadows far below. Memorable. It was also clearly much higher, and in fact the descent to the col was far easier than it looked, with minimal descent (although very steep). At the col, an easy contouring path takes the scree well to the right of the NE ridge crest. It then moves left to a smooth slab, fortunately at a very gentle angle. Above this, steep but easy terrain led with surprising ease to the summit. With a circuit of this kind I was mildly concerned about the nature of the descent on the other side of Campbieil but on the summit all concerns evaporated as it was obvious that fairly gentle scree slopes led down towards Lac Long. And the view was just superb - a grandstand seat looking towards the Haute Pyrenees, some of the famous peaks I had climbed in the past clearly identifiable. Monte Perdido (which I haven't done) behind the instantly recognisable cleft of the Breche du Roland and Le Taillon (which I have). Further right, the Vignemale and Balaitous resplendent, both of which I can remember as if it was yesterday (actually it was 1997). Perfect clarity and a really memorable view, as were the plunging cliffs down to Pla d'Adet and the valley I'd been staying in. Across the upper scree bowl, Pic Long looked magnificent but also loose! I decided to nip across to the subsidiary peak of Lentilla for a view back to Campbieil. Also brilliant, with even closer views of the high mountains across the valley and into Spain. As with Verdeguer, it is often the case that these satellite peaks look notable from a certain valley or viewpoint and therefore have their own names and identity despite the ease with which they can be included. After a snack I commenced the scree descent which was as easy and quick as it looked. But it still proved deceptive. As the ex-glacial bowl levelled out, the route became complex and hard to follow. It eventually led to a beautiful meadow with coalescing streams and then a drop to gain amazing views of Lac Long which was the deepest blue imaginable, Pic de Neouville rising above into a flawless blue sky. Lac Long was then a constant and almost impossibly scenic companion as the return route negotiated it by traversing high above it. This often proves trickier than expected and that was definitely the case today - it was long, complex and arduous with lots of rises and drops to gain the far side of the lake where the car park is. It took far longer than expected and was a tiring way to finish, especially as I still had some way to go back to the van. It was very busy up in the massif by now, but fortunately I was just in time for a late lunch back down in Fabian and refuelled splendidly on Pyrenean Garbure soup, Duck parmentier and fromage blanc with myrtilles.

Col du Tourmalet-Col d'Aspin ride

Hallowed ground, the greatest arena in sport (and I say that having been to the Maracana this year!) so this was quite an exciting day and one of my main objectives. I spent a memorable night at the Col d'Aspin itself watching the mist roll in and the weather constantly changing (with an artisan beer from neaby Arreau, which was en fete yesterday evening celebrating the local gateau a la broche). The roads were still damp this morning so I took my time down to my intended base for the two climbs in St Marie de Campan. After a snack, I set off up the Tourmalet, always an electrifying moment as you pass the TdF signpost detailing the climb's statistics. Around 3k in, I felt the telltale thud of my back wheel bottoming out: puncture! I had been carrying a little sac on these climbs so changed into trainers and plodded all the way back to the van for repairs as I wanted to do the climb properly from the bottom. I had never actually repaired a puncture on the Scott, but it went OK and then I set off again, a little later than planned but the advantage was that the weather was now absolutely stunning, crystal clarity after yesterday's rain and not too hot. The Tourmalet starts fairly mildly, and soon gives glimpses of what is to come. And then it comes, relentless 8% slopes through the forest to a steep and lengthy hairpin, followed by a horrible grippy drag up to the ski resort of La Mongie (the Tourmalet road surface was OK but not like the manicured perfection of the Col d'Aspin, which I was expecting). The 2km below La Mongie was, for me, the crux, and the fairly cruel gearing on the Scott really showed itself. I say this because, in my two previous TdF col cycling trips. (2011 and 2014) I never really found anything difficult, including the Ventoux, Madeleine, Galibier and so on, partly because I rode them on my old triple. The Scott had nothing like this to drop into, and so it was pretty hard. After a short easier section, the road kicks up again through La Mongie and stays at 9% or so for the final 4-5k up the exposed and oft-photographed hairpins to the summit (90m). The col itself is just a magical place for a Tour fan (I have watched it every year since it came onto C4 in the 1980s). Hundreds of cyclists from all over the world, immediate recognition. The perfect clarity of the weather helped too - it is over 2200m high, so the views were stunning, particularly down the western side which is probably more scenic and very slightly easier (although I believe there isn't much in it). I should perhaps have gone into the iconic cafe but instead took numerous photos and then took on the rapid descent all the way down to St Marie de Campan. I had a bite to eat at the van and then started out in the opposite direction towards the Col d'Aspin. This is definitively the easier side of the Aspin, but it is still a long climb, initially up shallow gradients to the beautiful pastures around Payolle. Above Payolle, it actually gets quite steep - over 10% in several places - and was obviously tiring after the Tourmalet. The surface was the best I have ever experienced, however, perfect smooth tarmac, and the climb is not that long. It was great to pull onto the col, particularly as I had spent the night there - and the contrast from mist and drizzle to dazzling sunshine was incredible. I am not a confident descender but even I was able to open out a little on the way back to St Marie, and it was pretty fast lower down. I decided to stop for a late lunch near the pastures of Payolle, where there are numerous restaurants and had local ham and cheese in a panini while I gazed up to the Horquettes d'Ancizan. I then drove down to the Aure valley, later than planned, and spent the night near Fabian rather than up in the Neouville as I'd intended. This wasn't an issue, however, as I had a lovely evening picnic in a perfect campsite away from the road (to the Bielsa border tunnel, very close) with rivers on both sides.

Pic de Fontanette

Peaks: Pic de Fontanette (2002m)

Area: Ariege, Pyrenees

I was planning to camp at the Port de Lers but storms were forecast so I prudently stayed in the valley at the same site near the bouldering. The storms took a while to arrive, and it is always disorientating in steep-sided valleys as you can often see near-constant lightning but not hear very much unless it is right overhead. It was a fairly interrupted night's sleep, and the temperature had dropped by almost 25c when I woke up (not an exaggeration, mid 30s to single figures). It was dank and misty in Vicdessos so I had cafe, local yoghurt and croissant at a delightful deli while I pondered my options. The rain had stopped, so I decided to go back up the Port de Lers and see how far I could get on the grassy ridge that lies above, where three peaks seemed doable. It was still dry when I set off in thermals, shell, hat and gloves - all quite a contrast! I was soon into the mist, and it felt like the Beacons or Yorkshire Dales. Higher up, it started to rain, horizontal stinging blasts which further reminded me of home. I decided to sack it after the first peak (Fontanette) - which had a pleasant and quite narrow ridge leading to it. I scampered back down to the Port de Lers and tried to dry off at the Etang de Lers, looking very different from yesterday. Inevitably it started to clear as I drove to Massat but I still felt it was the right decision - a transition day and a semi-rest day (although I had rather stupidly done well over 500m of ascent in 'fell race style' up to Pic de Fontanette in 30 minutes). After a superb chicken tart from a Massat Deli (it was almost uncomfortably cold outside) I drove via a St Gaudens coffee to Aurelle, and then the Col d'Aspin, where I spent a misty and atmospheric night. The weather remained unstable all day.

Port de Lers-Col de Port ride

After a very successful start summiting six splendid peaks, it was time for the bike to come out. I had a few options, wanting to do some famous Tour climbs, but eventually settled for a modestly challenging 75k/1500m loop from my camping spot near Laramade. I left fairly early, deep blue skies above and still the potential for very high temperatures, and took it easy to Vicdessos, from where the climb up to the Port de Lers begins. This was taken by the Tour a week or so ago, and the signs and graffiti were in place. It is a typical Pyrenean climb, the cliche being that instead of the consistent gradients of the Alps, the climbs here tend to rear up then flatten out making it hard to maintain a rhythm. The steep bits tend to be steeper, and having done quite a few of the classic TdF climbs in the Alps I would agree. In the case of the Port de Lers, the steepest sections are right at the start out of Vicdessos, after which it eases for a bit. It stays in woodland, reminiscent of Nant Gwynant, beautifully verdant and lush, before a sharp hairpin takes you into high open meadows with views opening out to the south and west. I really enjoyed the climb, probably my favourite of all the Tour climbs I did on this trip, and even the steeper gradients at the top were no problem. The Port de Lers itself is tranquil and pastoral, closer in ambience to the Croix Morand I did in the Auvergne to the higher cols that were to come. The descent was stupendously brilliant, even though I am always very cautious - just wonderful cycling down to the beautiful Etang de Lers and a junction with the Col d'Agnes. I ignored this in favour of continuing the descent to Massat. This was just as enjoyable, down the valley of the River Arac which was delightful, through little villages like Le Port. There was some gravelly bits but it was generally ideal - and I had been anticipating 'undulations' into the Couserans. Massat turned out to be shabby-chic and bourgeois, not an easy place for a quick snack. I had a lion bar and a fanta from a newsagent which fortified me for the Col de Port. I knew this was a long climb, but also a fairly easy one with steady and gentle 6% gradients for most of it. This climb has often featured on the Tour as it is a major through route between the Couserans and Ariege valleys (first used in the 1940s). I was tiring a little and the heat was building, but I enjoyed it, and got views over yesterday's peaks. It all had that very exciting Tour atmosphere, and it was another fast descent into Tarascon. Through the town, a little busy, and then the undulating drag back to the campsite and a welcome plunge into the Ariege (after some more bouldering). A superb little 75k loop over two famous cols, with around 1500m of climbing.

Montcalm-Estats

Peaks: Pic du Montcalm (3077m), Pica d'Estats (3143m), Pic de Verdaguer (3129m)

Area: Ariege, Pyrenees

Estats is on the border with Spain and is therefore the Catalonian highpoint. As a result, half the residents of the Pinet hut were Catalan or Spanish, heading up to this special summit. Strangely enough, I have also done Pedraforca, which also has some significance as an iconic symbol of Catalan nationhood. Whatever its wider symbolism, Pica d'Estats is a major Pyrenean peak and one that I was delighted to add to my list of Pyrenees mountains built up very intermittently over 31 years since my ascent of Pic du Midi with Stee in 1993! Pic du Montcalm came first, however, but not before a weather scare. I spent the night on the floor of the hut - such was the crowding that I just dragged my mattress to a space below the window. That said, I slept well and was only woken by an annoying alarm by a fellow dorm dweller. Peering out of the window, I was amazed and alarmed to find it raining, with a strong wind blowing and threatening cloud. Over breakfast, however, the verdict seemed to be that it would clear between 9am and midday, and these peaks are well tracked out, popular and not serious despite their altitude. So I set off with a fair amount of optimism, and felt pretty good despite yesterday's rigours. The route takes the left-hand side of the dramatic narrow valley (Ruisseau d'Estats) which plunges down to the hut from the superbly situated Etang d'Estats, surrounded by peaks, Sottlo being particularly impressive. The route then climbs steeply left to an even tighter valley, this time containing the glacial lake of the Etang de Montcalm. Above, the Point du Montcalm was an impressive spire. But the main route then became complex, weaving up tricky terrain to some snowfields and then an easier upper cwm to a major col between the two peaks. Superb views down to the eastern valleys and south into Catalonia. Altitude kicks in for me around the 3000m mark, and today was no exception. But the weather was ideal - high milky cloud, cold but not too cold, and no rain. The ascent of Montcalm is easy, steep to the east but generally quite rounded. From the summit, great views east over a standard Pyrenees cloud inversion. I had the summit to myself, always special, and made my way back to the col where I immediately began to climb up Estats. This has a tiny scrambling section, and Estats is generally a more shapely summit. A vague ridge leads to a mini col, and then shaley scrambling up to a spire-like summit, which again I had to myself. A fantastic place to be, and a great mountain. Stunning views in all directions, as this is a very prominent mountain, much higher than most of its surroundings, befitting its status. Back at the mini-col, I took in the prominent subsidiary peak which turned out to be Pic de Verdaguer (from most angles, Estats is a triple-pointed mountain with three different summits). This gave a great view back to the main top. I passed the couple from Valencia that I'd shared a table with the night before, and they pronounced themselves impressed by my speed! I really enjoyed the descent back to the hut, passing most of the hut residents on their way up as the weather cleared to blue skies and temperatures climbed considerably (I had been in coat and hat all morning). After a very short rest and drink at the hut, I took a different and much better descent to the valley. I headed initially to the little shepherds hut at Etang Sourd, then took the steep descent to regain the ascent route just above the treeline. The rest was a little tiring but fine down to L'Artigue where I had a superb river bath before heading back to Tarascon. I later camped next to the bouldering in Laramade. I had my rock shoes, and this place was almost a mini Fontainebleau. As usual, however, the discipline of bouldering just leaves me a little cold. I did a few easy problems then retired for tea.

Pic de St Barthelemy, Girabal, hut walk

Peaks: Pic de St Barthelemy (2348m),  Pic de Girabal (2169m)

Area: Ariege, Pyrenees

St Barthelemy is very notable as it emerges from the Ariege plains beyond Mirepoix. It made an obvious initial objective, and the morning dawned crystal clear with some serious heat starting to build. I was very conscious of not burning all my matches too early so adopted a sustainable pace to escape the ski developments and gain the unspoiled terrain surrounding the Etangs de Fage Belle, a small lake. The route then heads east to the hidden valley marked Font de la l'Auzate. Then came a steep climb out of dwarf woodland (with impressive stands of great yellow gentian) to gain high mountain terrain at the pronounced Col de Girabal, at which the route takes on a high mountain feel. A pleasant ridge leads to the summit of St Barthelemy. Instructive views over the entire region as it is much higher than everything else locally (apart from its immediate neighbour, which it would have been nice to have done as it looked an interesting scramble). I retraced steps down to the Col and then really enjoyed the steeper climb up to the Pic de Girabal, with a little mild scrambling in places especially on the crest. A lovely rocky summit, and then new terrain down to the next col over, the Col de l'Etang d'Appy, presumably named after the mountain lake just below. Again, I could have bagged more peaks from here but sensibly opted to complete the loop back to the Fage Belle and then back to Mont D'Olmes. A delightful start, after which I drove around to the next valley over and had lunch in Tarascon sur Ariege, before continuing to Auzat and the roadhead higher up at L'Artigue. This was rammed with day trippers escaping the heat, so I could only park lower down, after which I embarked on the walk-in to the Refuge du Pinet. I have done this before, a hut walk after a day in the mountains, and it is tiring, However, the heat today - along with the vertical interval - made this a particularly big ask at the start of the trip. That said, it was wonderful to be back in the high Pyrenees, and the route initally follows the valley of the upper Ariege with stunning views down to the river, the Cascade Pressac and up to the bare mountains further north like Pique de Belcaire. After a small error, I began to climb steeply through woodland. I hadn't done much research and was taken aback by the amount of climbing, which then got harder as it emerged from the treeline into the hanging valley south-west. No sign of the hut (which is completely hidden from view until you reach it) so life did get a bit tough for a while - sweating and dehydrating as I climbed. It got even steeper for a while, and with the 1100m climb added to the 1100m climbed this morning took it out of me more than expected. However, eventually I gained the beautiful Etang du Pinet and the wonderfully situated hut, which was packed, completely full. I was very glad that I'd booked, and just concentrating on replenishing my reserves with the usual fine four course hut meal of local beef with olives, ariege cheese, carrot soup, cake (and lots of resting admiring the view back down the valley) that evening.

Pic du Han

Peaks: Pic du Han (2074m)

Area: Ariege, Pyrenees

After dropping the family off at Carcassonne Airport I drove to Mirepoix and then up to the ski station at Mont D'Olmes. This is essentially the edge of the Pyrenees, and the hills around here were the obvious place to start. I don't recall ever visiting Ariege before either, which was a further attraction (this was my fourth Pyrenees trip, the others being 1993, 1997 and 2016). I had no real intention of doing anything today, but when I arrived I realised the cable car was still running and I just had enough time for a reccie - it seemed a perfect opportunity. So I packed quickly and took it to the top station, where I embarked on zigzags up to an obvious Col de Cadene. From there, a short east ridge leads up via a little mild scrambling to the summit of Pic du Han. In my excitement at being here I initially felt I could run over to some of the neighbouring peaks, but I soon talked myself down from such foolishness. There was an obvious need to pace myself, so I contented myself with this as an ideal little reccie, spying out the peaks of my next destination like Pica d'Estats, and then descending for the return ride just before it closed.

Pic de Brau

Peaks: Pic de Brau (654m)

Area: Aude, France

Not a very interesting looking mountain, Pic de Brau frames the skyline from Limoux but has a plateau-like summit covered in wind-farms. After a couple of runs in Carcassonne, including one along the Canal du Midi, and a 30k bike ride through the Limoux vineyards, I had some spare energy so ran up this hill from Cournanel (a lovely village just outside Limoux) before breakfast. It was more enjoyable than I'd expected, nice gravel tracks up to a little level ridge and then a remarkably steep final climb for such a short and innocuous looking mountain. From the top, the Pyrenees were cloud-covered but Bugarach was clear and notable. I descended equally steep slopes down the far side of the mountain and then picked up the family (in shifts) for a delightful circuit walk around the 'Cabanes' - each individual vineyard had its own shelter, and they had all been perfectly restored. We had a picnic by one as the temperature climbed.

Limoux ride

Just a short outing through the vineyards of Limoux - most famed for the sparkling 'blanquette' which predates Champagne by a century. As with the three cols I did in the Auvergne, these short climbs have also featured on the Tour. They really are quite small, however, and I climbed the Col du Loup initially before the Cote de St Nazaire took me down to that little wine village before heading back on the unpleasant main Carcassonne road.

Pic de Bugarach

Peaks: Pech/Pic de Bugarach (1230m)

Area: Corbieres, France

Both the mountain and village of Bugarach became famous a decade or two again, as some cult or other decided it would be spared when the world ended in 2012. That didn't happen, but the mountain is still apparently associated with various new-age beliefs. It stands alone and impressively above the village, which might have something to do with it, but for me it just represented an ideal outing for M and I after we moved accommodation from Carcassonne to Limoux. We have made a habit of taking in at least one peak together during our family holidays, so I drove in the van up to the Col de Linas for a high start. The route up was really enjoyable, through a mossy woodland we christened 'dagobah' to a viewpoint and then the spectacular side peak spires of Pic Grosse with a superb view down over 'Cathar Country'. The route then kinks left to join the broad west ridge which leads delightfully to the summit. This was a fantastic place, which we had to ourselves despite encountering numerous others on the mountain. A steep gully plunged down from one side, with the Pyrenees distantly visible from the other. I could see St Barthelemy, which I felt would make a good initial objective next week. I could also see Carlit, which I did in 2016. But most notable was Canigou, iconic Catalan summit, shimmering to the south. I had planned to descent south-east, but after a sandwich the initial steep scree made me consider the 'fenetre' route to the west. This was an excellent decision, and we both enjoyed the intricate route through little crags, passing the little window (a hole in the limestone) part of the way down. After reaching the woods we finally got down to a quiet road which led round the mountain back to the village. M stayed here while I ploughed back up to the Col de Linas for the car. A very enjoyable Bastille Day outing.

Mont Dore peaks and ride

Peaks: Roc de Cuzeau (1737m), Puy de Crebasses (1762m), Puy de Cacadogne (1784m), Puy de Sancy (1885m), Tour Carree (1738m), Puy de Clierge (1691m)

Area: Massif Central, France

After 10 hours of nourishing sleep at the wonderful Col de Guery, I had some porridge then drove across to Mont Dore and up to park near the Chalet du Sancy. I calculated this would be best-placed for a big horseshoe of the main peaks in this area, which are all surprisingly scenic, even mildly dramatic in places. It was all a very nice surprise, one of the very few parts of mountainous France that I have never visited. As a result, this was a superbly enjoyable circuit of at least six peaks (there is an established route called the Boucle de Sancy which takes part of this, although I was unaware of it). My starting point proved prudent as it gave access to a contouring route through forests near the Chalet du Sancy which gained the ridgeline below the Roc de Cuzeau. A few hundred metres of ascent remained to the summit, at which views opened out towards Sancy and the head of the valley. This is partially spoiled by ski developments, but the upper mountains are again surprisingly well defined. The weather was perfect, clear, sunny and warm but not overly humid. I really enjoyed the subsequent hills of Crebasses (more rounded) and Cacadogne, which I skirted. Then it was up the badly eroded zigzags to Puy de Sancy, the dominant peak and (along with the Puy de Dome) perhaps the most climbed mountain in France. It certainly felt like Snowdon at the top, with dozens of people milling around. Wooden steps down to a marked col was another indication of this, as its the highest peak for miles around, a really prominent feature of the landscape. Not really my cup of tea so I scampered down past surprisingly dramatic views to the col below the Tour Carree to continue the circuit, after which the crowds melted away as they so often do. The rest of the round was a delight, again much more interesting than I'd expected. Tour Carree was rocky but gave way to a fabulous easy romp along the western side of the valley, with superb views back to Sancy. Over the Puy de Clierge then down from the col below the Capucin to emerge right next to the van. Fortunately, I was in time for lunch, so had the local speciality of Truffade made with Bleu d'Auvergne and served with saucisson sec. Thus fortified, and after a coffee, I got on the bike for another training climb, this time more precisely replicating my forthcoming Pyrenees plans. I rode up the Col de la Croix Morand from Mont Dore. This was mild, no more than 8k at a steady 6% gradient, so much easier than a Pyrenees climb, but still a highly enjoyable confidence boost and trial for the Scott. It has featured at least six times on the Tour, and the top had that distinctive atmosphere. After a river bath under a tiny waterfall, I drove to the Dordogne and parked the van above the famous river itself, not far from Martel (which I ran to via delightful paths next morning after a nocturnal downpour).

Roche Sanadoire

Peaks: Roche Sanadoire (1286m)

Area: Massif Central/Auvergne, France

After a baguette lunch of the ultra-local St Nectaire cheese in Orcival, I rounded the corner to find the dramatic peaks of Roche Sanadoire and Tuiliere. This was a genuine surprise, as Sanadoire in particular looks like an Alpine spire from some angles. As I reached the Col de Guery, I spied a tiny path up this western side and it occured to me it would make a very quick outing from the col. It did indeed: a short descent to a lower col, and then I made my way up steep slopes to a precipitous path which cut through bands of limestone to the small summit. Steep but nowhere near as hard as the peak actually looks. Superb views of the beautiful valley below, and across to the rest of the range. I then spent the evening gazing at the famous view of these two spires from the Col de Guery viewpoint, wonderfully relaxing.

Puy de Dome run and ride

Peaks: Puy de Dome (1465m)

Area: Chaine des Puys/Massif Central, France

A notable landmark, obvious for miles around, this volcanic lava dome may well be one of the most frequently ascended mountains in France. I hadn't really planned to do it (I would have liked to have cycled up it, but that is now banned). However, the view of it as I approached the Puys from Troyes (where I had watched the Tour stage yesterday via a 35k ride) made it a compelling objective. Lots of cars at the Col de Ceyssat, and a famous path - the Chemin des Muletiers - leading directly to the top. This was enjoyable, albeit crowded with families and all manner of day-trippers, rather like Snowdon. At the top, it emerges onto the expansive summit dome replete with visitor centre, observatory and tracks. I took in the view of Clermont Ferrand, which is directly below, as well as the distant views across to higher hills like the Puy de Sancy. I did a few loops around the top then located a tiny steep path that immediately left the crowds behind to plough directly down the northern slopes. A long looping descent followed, quite hot at times in glorious sunshine. After a short break, I drove to Ceyssat and got the bike out for a little tester, up to the Col de Ceyssat, then the very fast descent to the edge of the city, and then the surprisingly tough climb up the Col de Moreno before a gravel descent back to Ceyssat. 

Druid race

Race: Druid fell race

Time/Position: 41.50 (17th from 100)

A dreadful race, by far my worst time on this course, a race I have done many times. I started reasonably well but faded rapidly on the climb. The descent was marginally better, but not much.