Scafell from Eskdale

Peaks: Scafell, Slight Side

Area: Scafell, Lake District

I hate to think how long it has been since I was last on top of Scafell (as opposed to Scafell Pike). Actually, I know of course, as I have always taken copious notes: it was July 1989, remarkably enough. At the time I noted how unpleasant Lords Rake was, and there is a little asterisk next to the handwritten entry to denote 'photos taken from summit', which makes me feel quite old! This morning, over 37 years later, I took a completely different route after a leisurely breakfast at the hostel, waiting for overnight rain to clear. The rain did clear, although the day never really did become sunny as was forecast. I took the tracks above the Esk northeast through a farm to cross Scale Gill at the little bridge. From here, a shortcut zigzags up to pass round the back of Silverybield Crag and this gives way to a level path to the upper Esk, a wild place by Lakes standards, reminiscent of Scotland on a day like today with mist draping the tops. The shortcut worked a treat, passing through Sampston's Stones to Cam Spout, a triple waterfall coming down from the upper cwm. I am virtually certain I've never been here before, it's a great spot. The rock was a bit damp but I took a moderate scrambling line direct up the slabs immediately right of the falls itself (taken direct I think this is grade 3, but certainly not by the route I took). Above the falls, the path heads up right into the mist - it actually heads to the famous col of Mickledore, but I gradually realised I should be looking for Foxes Rake, which is a shallow gully almost hidden from below in misty weather like this. It was very wet but I headed up into the mist and it gave a lovely, if wet, little scramble. Very atmospheric, emerging at tiny Foxes Tarn before a final scree slope gives access to Scafell's summit, a great way up the mountain, varied and interesting throughout. Thick mist, although it did try (briefly and unsuccessfully) to clear as I descended the rocky ridge towards Slight Side. This is a minor summit, a lump on the ridge with a rocky top, and I finally emerged from the mist below Great How. The terrain is much grassier and moorland-like here (Quagrigg Moss) and I made good progress through the boggy terrain to gain the Terrace Route back to Wha House and Eskdale. Although wet and boggy in places, this was a great way to regain the main Eskdale valley, slipping between little rocky lumps like Cat Crag with a bonus view of the entirety of the Hardknott climb to keep me entertained: 17k, 1000m in 3.40, after which I recovered with local bitter and an excellent pizza at the Woolpack.