Routes: Wall Climb (HS 4b:sec), Arete and Slab (D:led), One Pitch Route (VS 4c:sec), Chimney Climb Direct (HS 4b:sec), Two Pitch Route (S:sec)
A venue I have visited many times, but even though I was largely just a passenger again today I did a couple of variations I don't think I've done before. Peter kicked off with Wall Climb in disappointing weather: cool, almost cold, and unexpectedly windy. It gives a great pitch, quite stiff for the grade, which I remembered fairly well although it must be decades since I led it. A ramp goes left to a steep wall with some great climbing on sharp holds up to a ledge. Above this, after a steep crux pull the angle eases. Nice pitch, windy throughout but Peter was experimenting with mini walkie-talkies which worked really well. I then led the easy Arete and Slab which I've done many times before, including solo, up a steep crack on enormous holds to the slabbier finish. I don't think I've ever done One Pitch Route before, and enjoyed following Peter up it. Essentially an eliminate, it goes up to Marble Slab before sidling leftwards along a horizontal crack to a short and surprisingly technical crux with little for the feet. After lunch we got on the old Eryri classic, Chimney Climb. I hate to think how long ago I did this with Tim: 35 years perhaps? It was so dry that Peter did the direct version, which goes up a black, mossy crack - presumably usually horribly damp but today dry and climbable. It gives a steep layback to the ledge, after which an awkward steep move over the obstruction leads to the easier upper chimney - I remembered this from all those years ago. Finally, we did the mild severe Two Pitch Route which I've done many times before.
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