Knutshoe

Peaks: Knutshoe (1517m)

Area: Jotunheimen, Norway

Knutshoe is a perfect miniature mountain which gave an ideal start to my Jotunheimen trip. This was my return to the Norwegian mountains after 35 years away. My university expeditions to Okstinden in 1989 and 1991 had an enormous impact on me, it's probably not an exaggeration to say that in many ways they changed my life. I assumed I would return to Norway regularly, but I suppose I was lured away by many other (cheaper) mountain ranges worldwide. So the return was long overdue, particularly as it is so easy to get to the Jotunheimen, making it ridiculous that this was my first visit. After weeks of glorious weather, I was unlucky in the sense that the weather changed when I arrived. In fact persistent rain was forecast from around 5pm, so as soon as I saw Knutshoe from the Oslo bus, free of cloud and sitting in the landscape as a perfect little ridge, I asked the driver to drop me off at Vargebakken, and then it was straight into it at around 2pm. Cloud draped the higher Bessegen ridge across Lake Gjende and was very threatening over the bigger peaks to the west, but Knutshoe remained clear. The little birch trees, lichen and juniper immediately bought memories flooding back and I immediately felt at home in the landscape. The route is level for a while and then comes the first rise to gain the long ridge which forms the mountain. This is the steepest part of the entire route and actually has a couple of tricky scrambling moves, perhaps even grade 2 or 3, up a sort of open book groove below a steep wall. It doesn't last long and gives way to a broad ridge up which I made quick progress, trying to get up before the rain, which now seemed inevitable. It goes up and down a bit to gain a final forepeak before a descent. Then comes the last steep scramble on good rock, really enjoyable, to the true summit. Extraordinary views down to Ovre Leirungen, a turqouise lake and valley which feeds into the famous Lake Gjende, which I could also see. The ambience was stunning with black clouds draped around the higher peaks, plunging waterfalls, the two lakes, and across to big interior peaks like Storend. The modern description for this is 'epic', probably apt in this instance, and I couldn't believe it has taken me 35 years to come back. It started to rain as soon as I started the descent but never developed beyond light showers, meaning the tricky downclimb was fine with a bit of thought. At the base I had to get to Gjendesheim so took a side path through boggy birch woodland and a path along the eastern banks of Nedre Leirungen with perfect views back to Knutshoe. I had to regain the road where the Sjoe river feeds into the Gjende, exhilarating meltwater, to loop back to the packed Gjendesheim hut where I had to spend the night on a sofa in the lower lounge after feasting on superb reindeer stew. It rained heavily from 5pm, incredibly atmospheric views from the hut across the black lake.