Area: Jotunheimen, Norway
This was a wonderful route through magnificent terrain. The scenery evolved constantly and every step was enjoyable, in weather that gradually improved throughout the day. From Glitterheim I had to retrace steps back up to the Hesterlaegerhoe pass, but this was no bad thing as the high plateau is such a magnetic, atmospheric place. The cloudbase was gradually lifting as I crested the pass and moved quite quickly over the boulder fields eventually branching off decisively down Blatjonn for Memurubu, with Russvatnet shimmering below. Ahead, Besshoe with its gigantic western rock ramparts still draped in mist. A superb fast flowing river (the Blatjonn I assume) was crossed by a bridge, and then the path gradually descends to the lake shore and follows this inexorably towards a superbly alluring narrowing of the valley which is blocked by the foot of Gloptinden, a low but impressive pyramidal peak that I had mild designs on. A burst of sunshine lit the narrow valley opening as I approached it near the isolated hut of Blackwellbue (named after an English climber I think), a huge waterfall coming down from Surtingsue on the right. This gave access to Nedre Russglopet, the narrow valley, although there was no obvious way up Gloptinden from here sadly. After a drink, the route climbs to a high col, the climax of the route, and then sudden spectacular views down to Lake Gjende. At that point the sun came out, alongside a light shower, creating an incredible play of light. I was looking down at the ridge that forms a continuation of Besseggen to the end of the lake at Gjendebu. I wondered about taking in another peak up here, but eventually decided to descend to Memurubu, which nestles in a stunning location on green meadows half way along Gjende. Good job I did, as another massive school party was taking up all the rooms again, the same as Glitterheim last night! I did eventually get a bed in one of the original (C19?) wooden buildings well away from the main hut, which was perfect and hugely atmospheric, with views over the lake and up to the peak of Eggen and a giant waterfall coming down from a hanging valley. The weather was now decisively clearing for the first time so I made my way up to the obvious mini-peak of Sjurgurdtinden which towers above, and is highly reminiscent of the Lake District. I was up it in no time, a lovely extension of the day, and spent a memorable half hour on the summit enjoying a genuinely stunning panorama across the lake, up to Besseggen and Besshoe, and down to the Memurudalen valley.
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