Crags: Craig Braich Ty Ddu, Nant Francon
What started out as a short day ended up being a fairly long one. It was Easter Monday and Ogwen was rammed, I had no interest in anything difficult, and Peter had never done Pinnacle Ridge before so we headed there direct from the A5 after parking lower down Nant Ffrancon. It is actually very easy to approach the route from below, albeit steep: I have done it before, but it was with Tim many, many years ago. The first pitch is very nice, and I enjoyed seconded it although could hardly feel my hands with a cold wind blowing and no sun yet. I led up easy vegetated ground to the ridge line, which then ends far too quickly over the pinnacles. The day was still young, so I suggested continuing up the hard-to-find and rather esoteric Porcupine Ridge which forms the skyline high up on this broken set of crags. I was really tired for the slog up a very steep heather gully, still jet lagged I think, and unused to carrying kit having not climbed for a while. Instead of heading upwards, Peter decided to have a go at the obvious pinnacle, around 100ft high lower down on the left. It is possible this is the line of Ring Ouzel (VD) but it is a very obscure area so possibly not. It gave a rather loose pitch of about VD up broken walls and a vague arete line trending right. After a grassy gap, he led another cleaner pitch up a nice slab to an easy-angled arete trending right to a little overlap which gave a nice move to a clean slab. Interesting and very obscure stuff which certainly felt like a first ascent! We then moved over to the spines of rock which we felt marked the start of Porcupine Ridge. As a youth I do remember finding some scrambling after doing Pinnacle Ridge but I think I would have remembered this as it was something of a revelation! Way better than I'd expected. The ribs of rock lead up to a vegetated section where Peter belayed. I then led up easy ground to a narrow chimney where I belayed. The ridge then becomes really well defined on superb rock, completely unpolished. Peter led up the curving ridge, great hard scrambling, to belay below a giant pinnacle. I led a great easy pitch up big shelves and holds to a platform, then traversed the pinnacle to the right, before making the next narrow flake harder than necessary by traversing it on small footholds left. A perfect belay in a narrow breche, before Peter led the crux left-trending, fairly exposed crack up to a vague arete and good scrambling up to a final ridge. Interesting and absorbing scrambling, closer to an easy rock climb in tone, on the borders of Grade 3/Diff: I certainly wouldn't have been comfortable doing it without a rope. An easy stroll led to the direct descent to Ogwen Cottage in stunning crystal clear weather, perfect visibility over Ogwen to Tryfan. Back down Nant Francon to the car after a very enjoyable and unexpected mountaineering day.
