Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Carneddau walk

Peaks: Pen yr Olau Wen, Carnedd Dafydd
Area: Carneddau, Eryri

A pleasant short outing with Rich. Mild drizzle as we set off, an enormous contrast with the superb winter climbing conditions this time last year. The slopes up to Cwm Lloer were very boggy, then wet scrambling gained the ridge. Drier weather made lunch on the summit more comfortable, but a biting cold wind and lowering cloud base spoiled the ridge walk to Dafydd. My first rest day for quite a while, as I continue to push the running mileage, partly because of the bad weather (hence lack of other options!) and lack of races.

Thursday, December 22, 2011

Llangollen Skyline run

An excellent longer run, the culmination of recent attempts to up the training slightly following the final race of the year at Tattenhall. Neil, Jez and I set off from the Ponderosa in bracing sunshine, jogging up to the top of Cyrn y Brain before enjoying the superb descent down to World's End and along Offa's Dyke to Llangollen. Some flat respite along the canal towpath to Rhewl, then a desperate sting in the tail up the 'Conquering Hero' path, which stays unrelentingly steep until the summit of Moel y Gamelin. From here, fine running along the ridge over Moel y Faen back to the Ponderosa. Neil and I did a version of the same 16m route, starting from Llangollen, two years ago: it is perhaps even more challenging this way round and I would like to put it on as a race some time. Good urban running in London last weekend, followed by a pyramids session on Monday and a 12-miler round the forest tracks on Tuesday. I intend to do the Famau run Friday, then run back from Llanfair DC to Cadole on Christmas Eve - should manage a 55 mile week.

Sunday, December 11, 2011

Tattenhall Border League

Race: Tattenhall 10k (Border League race 3)
Time/Position: 35:41 (17th from 271 [3rd V40])

Poured with rain throughout this race, just as it did the last time we were here for the Tough Team in June. I was hoping for at least a top 20 finish, given reasonable current form, but should perhaps have done a little better on a course that theoretically suits me. Started off relatively slowly, intending to push it on the long double climb into the Peckforton Hills. This tactic worked reasonably well, although I lost a place on the fast and very long final run-in to the finish at the Sports Club. I took a minute off my previous best for this course and I'm now wondering whether I could get close to my 10k PB on a flatter course. Very tight overall in my category after three races: just three points between 2nd place and me currently in 4th.

Saturday, December 03, 2011

Cardington Cracker fell race

Race: Cardington Cracker (9m/2600ft/AM)
Time/Position: 1:23:06 (12th from 291 [3rd V40])

Another end-of-season away day, but in the more familiar territory of the Shropshire Hills this time. That said, this is only the third time I've raced in this very pleasant mini-range around Church Stretton. This is a classic outing giving superb running in places: our carbon footprint was pleasingly small, too, with six Flintshire runners in one vehicle! The race takes in some of the terrain traced by the Stretton Skyline, which I did in 2009, but uses very different routes up the two key hills of the Lawley and Caer Caradoc. We began from the village through stubble fields into a freezing headwind which then helped us a bit for the ferocious climb up the Lawley from the east: hands and knees at times, but mercifully brief, as with all these hills. A superb descent, well remembered from the Skyline race, with me in 18th position at this point. Good running across fields and a wood led to the almost equally steep climb up Caer Caradoc. I was starting to pick up places, although my underdressed right arm, leg and face (exposed to the icy wind) began to freeze up as I crossed the ridge. Caradoc is a lovely little hill, enlivened today by sweeping hail and sunbursts over the Long Mynd to the west. The final climb up and over Hope Bowdler hill is gentler but drawn out, with superb airy running throughout. I passed a few runners and thoroughly enjoyed the long, gently descending run-in back to Cardington - just failing to catch the chap in front. Won the first V40 prize at a raucous village hall later on, although the truth is that I was off the pace and really only 3rd.

Monday, November 28, 2011

Clwydian run

A grim start from Cadole in howling wind and lashing rain this morning. I didn't hang around for the run along the leet then up to the ridge at Moel Dywyll. Very strong crosswinds made life difficult to Moel Arthur, but it soon eased and the run up Pen y Cloddiau was surprisingly calm. An easy jog down to meet Kate in Bodfari after just over 90 mins of running. Picked the car up later following a day in the Vale. After a few days in the Arabian heat of Dubai and Sharjah last week (enlivened by a desert trip to the interior near the Oman border), I'd been trying to make up for lost training time with a novel sleepless post-flight run up Moel Famau on Friday night before following up with a brisk 10k yesterday.

Saturday, November 19, 2011

Tour of Pendle fell race

Race: Tour of Pendle (16.8m/4830ft/AL)
Time/Position: 2:52:18 (44th from 385)

This was conceived of as an end-of-season 'away day' to a classic Lancashire fell race, and worked perfectly in that respect. I have a tendency to split races into 'competitive' and 'tourist', but it has been a long time since I've really been able to put a race into the latter category and just plod round aiming for maximum enjoyment. Our small group of Welsh raiders really enjoyed this as a result. Peter sped off while Jez and I started at the back of the field in the pleasant village of Barley. Pendle towered overhead, quite isolated and impressive, rather like a northern Ventoux! A gentle trot past a series of reservoirs led to the first quite easy climb up to Pendle Hill itself at 557m. Perfect conditions: sunny, quite warm, deep blue sky. A boggy section led to a gloriously runnable long, gradual descent along a narrow valley to Pendleton Moor and the second checkpoint at the Nick of Pendle. More good running to Churn Clough reservoir, where I caught up with Peter. My ultra-slow start began to pay off as I upped the pace slightly for more fine running before I followed some local lads to take a steep line down the infamous 'geronimo' descent of Spence Moor. It feels like you're about to jump off a cliff as you approach it, but it's actually just a very steep and muddy hill. We then headed west through a valley and along to the fifth checkpoint at Howcroft Barn. Up to this point, the race had been very relaxed and enjoyable, but the hard work was about to begin with a steep, almost hot climb up Mearley Moor which is quickly followed by another sharp climb up Barley Hill. By now I was scooping water from small streams at every opportunity, dehydrating slightly but otherwise still comfortable. I caught Jez on the descent to CP 9, before the climax of the race - a 'Blorenge-like' hands-and-knees climb up the ultra-steep northern flank of Pendle Hill. A wonderful long descent then gains the valley and the finish back in Barley: all very relaxed and enjoyable. A fine, classic race which is very reminiscent of Shropshire's Long Mynd Valleys (albeit longer) in that it lulls you into a false sense of security before delivering a series of short but desperate climbs. It looks contrived on the map, but never feels it.

Sunday, November 13, 2011

Birkenhead Border League

Race: Birkenhead 5.5m (Border League race 2)
Time/Position: 31:11 (14th from 304 [2nd V40])

Another encouraging performance which felt quite similar to last Sunday at Abergele. Not just because of the distance, but also because I felt relatively comfortable throughout, far more so than at the first race of this season in Prestatyn. Four laps of Birkenhead park, so I just concentrated on maintaining the pace and staying fairly relaxed on the third lap in the knowledge that I was able to pick up places on the gentle climb from the pond to the finish. Because of the twisting nature of this circuit, it was hard to ascertain position, so I was quite surprised to come away with my highest ever league finish.

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Moel Famau night hike

I was keen to capitalise on Morgan's enthusiasm for the concept of a night hike, and waited until this evening to ask him because it looked likely that a full moon would illuminate our walk from Penbarras. In the event, though, mist and low cloud made torches necessary. The walk was quite atmospheric, and we enjoyed an eerie picnic in the dank mist near the top before the moon emerged from behind shifting clouds on the way down.

Sunday, November 06, 2011

Abergele 5m

Race: Abergele 5m/North Wales 5m Championships
Time/Position: 28:51 (9th from 261 [1st V40])

As this event always clashes with the Clwydian fell race I'd only done it once before. However, I felt that the rigours of last weekend's OMM were sufficient excuse to opt for a 5 mile road dash today! Furthermore, I've been meaning to make more of an effort for the championship races for some time and this is a tricky course with some very steep hills that I hoped would suit me. Despite all this, the beautiful weather meant I still had some regrets at not being in the hills as I set off - although I was relieved to feel fairly sharp after last weekend. The pace was quite high, and a group of 5 or 6 runners formed after 2 miles. Another runner and I gradually pulled away, and he went clear on the steep hill after 3 miles where I blew last time I did the race in 2007. Because it's such a hilly course, you get some recovery time, and the finish was relatively comfortable as a result - a very fast final mile. I won the V40 prize in the race, and the gold medal in the North Wales Championships. This was the 25th anniversary of a fine race.

Sunday, October 30, 2011

OMM Breadalbane

Race: Original Mountain Marathon, B Class, Day 2 (24k/1560m)
Peaks: Auchnafree Hill, A'Chairdh
Area: Breadalbane, Perthshire
Time/Position: 6:18:34 (19th from 180 [2nd Vet team])

Prospects looked much better this morning, with a higher cloud base, lighter winds and good morale after extensive refuelling at the overnight camp in Glen Almond. Nice views up to Meall nan Oighreag and other peaks, and even a little bit of blue sky allowing us to get a feel for this fine area at last. After an easy start, we planned to contour round for the next two CPs high above Glen Almond but went a little too high and so it became more logical to climb steeply over the spur of A'Chairdh to dib CP2 before another very sharp climb led to runnable terrain below Auchnafree Hill. The early weather optimism soon disappeared, and tricky nav in deteriorating conditions meant we had to skirt the rim of the cwm to descent the NE spur to CP3. Then an easy contouring line gained the next checkpoint, in fine and surprisingly dramatic Highland scenery just below the cloudbase, before a steep climb began the next crucial leg over the plateau of Auchnafree Hill. Huw was getting stronger and stronger, and our prospects began to look quite good. We followed an obvious fence line in more persistent rain, over the subsidiary peak of A'Chairdh, to gain the fine eastern cwm of Ben Chonzie. Tricky terrain, very boggy, and a big crocodile of competitors to follow (the first time in the weekend that I really felt we were following a big line though, which is a good indication that the area worked as a venue). After dibbing in a little high cwm, we had another critical leg in thick mist over the curving southern ridge of Chonzie: sticking to a precise bearing was critical. There were features, though, and we soon emerged from the mist to good views over the fine terrain above Loch Lednock. The views got even better as we negotiated the final checkpoints - with a superb sunburst over Ben Vorlich and Stuc a'Chroin to the west. The final run-in above Glen Lednock was a long haul, and we had to concentrate throughout, although Huw just got quicker until the event culminated in a flat-out sprint to the finish above Comrie in Betws-style oak woodland and pretty streams. A cracking weekend for my 4th OMM: good teamwork with Huw, which is what it's all about, and particularly pleasing for it to go reasonably well given my less than glorious record at this blue-riband event.

Saturday, October 29, 2011

OMM Breadalbane

Race: Original Mountain Marathon, B Class, Day 1 (26k/1650m)
Area: Breadalbane, Perthshire
Time/Position: 6:15:01 (23rd from 180 [2nd Vet team])

Having missed last year's OMM in Dartmoor, which didn't appeal as a destination, a chance to compete in a more interesting locale came up over summer. I thought this area, between Loch Tay and Loch Earn, was ideal Mountain Marathon terrain - and the rough conditions on day one made it quite memorable. I'd expected dull 'pudding' hills, but it's actually quite a complex, lumpy and scenic area, wild feeling with very few paths and therefore fairly challenging navigation. Huw and I had a late start, so stayed at a Travelodge in Cumbernauld before setting off from St Fillans after 10am in steady drizzle. I fancied a line class for a change, and had demons to slay after two disastrous MMs this year (not to mention blobbing on the B class when Gary had to retire in 2007). After dibbing the first control, we entered the mist in a shallow bowl near Meall Reamhar then cut the corner to dib at a lochan further north. Then a very long leg in poor viz took us past a spur dropping from the summit of Creag Ruadh, above Glen Tarken. Kept dead on the bearing for 5k or so to emerge from the mist above a problematic river crossing. This looked like being a real issue and - after a tentative initial step - I disappeared up to my neck. Some breast-stroke became necessary, although it wasn't fast flowing, and we emerged gasping and obviously a tad moist and chilly. All rather distressing, but a steep climb through a small gorge warmed us up nicely and we emerged bang on a well-hidden CP3. The next leg was a simpler romp along a lumpy ridge to a stream below Stuc Mhor. The rain had become increasingly heavy, the visibility generally awful, and it stayed relentless for the next monster leg between CP4 and 5. This was always going to be the physical and mental crux, and was among the toughest I've done on a MM. An obvious track round a pipeline gained a stream which ultimately led to the top of Fin Glen. After this, conditions really deteriorated with driving rain and strong winds. This was unfortunate timing, as we were now quite high up and the terrain became very complex below the rocks of Creag Uchdag. Huw began to wilt and fall behind slightly, and I envisaged a re-run of 2007, as I became increasingly cold waiting. But we kept to the bearing and located a small lochan after a long climb. It was then a simple matter to drop down into the valley containing CP5. Even better, we got out of the wind and started to warm up. The rain was even heavier though, and we had no wish to stay up high in these conditions. Instead, we opted to descend the stream valley and contour the northern spur of Meall Aiteachain to CP6. A good decision, which gained us time and was far more comfortable in the prevailing weather. The remaining checkpoints above Glen Almond were easier, although we had an annoying long detour to cross the river safely via a bridge. A fortunate brief clearance enabled us to put the tent up in the dry before more heavy showers and strong gusts made sleep difficult at times.

Sunday, October 23, 2011

Coed y Brenin Duathlon

Race: Coed y Brenin Off-Road Duathlon (3k/20k/3k)
Time/Position: 1:38:56 (11th from 40 [1st V40])

My first ever duathlon and, as such, a fairly steep learning curve. I was surprised and somewhat disadvantaged by the shortness of the two trail runs which book-ended the mountain biking, as it was inevitable that I would lose ground on the bike. Still, it was all a lot of fun with the mountain bike route taking in some of the best and toughest sections of the splendid Tarw trail. The initial trail race was just 3k, although quite sharp, with the first half a flat out dash down fireroads before a very long and steep tarmac climb led to a boggy fell race style section through trees to gain the transition. I was in fifth place after the first run in 13.33, but began to get overtaken on the bike after just 1 or 2k: unsurprising, but still dispiriting. I've done the Tarw Trail a few times before, and rode it in the early days of the 'Red Bull' circuit. However, the initial climb is surprisingly tough when you are racing in anger! I'd expected to lose most ground on the technical descents, but, to my surprise, I shot down the black Flight Path section and gained slightly on the riders in front. Superb singletrack riding with the bike performing quite well after its service. Very wet rock after heavy rain earlier in the morning. I slowed a bit then slipped a chain on the long open moorland climbs to the south. I felt the lack of toe-clips/cleats here. Inevitably, more riders passed me at this stage, although I shot down the descents. Indeed, the long fire track down to the final singletrack section saw me doing a fair impression (in my own mind at least) of a more muddy and less glamorous Vincenzo Nibali. Another very steep and technical climb saw me gain some ground before infuriatingly puncturing during the final very technical and tricky rocky section before the road crossing. This meant I had to run the last 2k, pushing the bike. It removed any chance of catching those in front, and meant that I was passed by two more cyclists before starting the final run. I maintained a reasonable pace for this, with the 6th quickest time, but didn't gain any places. A surprisingly intense and enjoyable outing.

Monday, October 17, 2011

Llandegla MTB

Mountain bike route: Llandegla red variant
Distance/climb: 20k/400m

Another quick blast on the newly refurbished bike, again by way of pointlessly late and inadequate training for next weekend's off-road duathlon. I left very early, in order to squeeze this in before the rain arrived, but drizzle accompanied the initial climb through the now denuded forest. Loads of new variations, diversions and annoying closed sections throughout the red and black loops. I haven't been to Llandegla for a couple of years and this was probably a reminder to stay away, particularly given the outrageous parking fees they now impose. Still, some enjoyable new singletrack sections - particularly out to the west with good views over Gamelin, and a good way to get yesterday's race out of my legs. Took in a few variants along the way, keeping the pace reasonably high for training purposes and staying in the middle ring. Around an hour for the circuit.

Sunday, October 16, 2011

Prestatyn Border League

Race: Prestatyn 5.1m (Border League round 1)
Time/Position: 29:29 (27th from 310 [4th V40])

Having missed most of last season's fixtures through injury, I am quite keen to give the league a proper bash again this year. I think this race marked my 25th appearance in the BL and, as such, my final position today was disappointing. That said, my time was almost 40 seconds quicker than the 2010 running of this route, and yet I finished one place down - which all suggests that it was a distressingly strong field today. It certainly felt like that as I got in with a very tightly packed, large group which (unusually) held together without breaking up until we got to the turn in Rhyl. The pace was high and, although I was drafting a bit into the westerly headwind, I began to struggle as we regained the seafront and headed back east. This was my first short road race for a very long time, almost a year perhaps, and I felt a distinct lack of speed-endurance as I tried to maintain the pace for the last two miles. An uncomfortable shock to the system.

Monday, October 10, 2011

Hope Mountain MTB circuit

Mountain bike route: Hope Mountain Loop
Distance: 25k

A short blast on the mountain bike, my first MTB trip for a while. Three reasons for this. First, the imminent Coed y Brenin off-road duathlon, for which I have done no training. Second, the fact that I recently paid for a complete overhaul of my mountain bike and wanted to test it. Third, the desire to get yesterday's race out of my legs. A shame that the weather was unpleasant, which restricted the outing to a quick blast up Waun y Llyn and along the bridleways - the bike performing better than it ever has done before.

Sunday, October 09, 2011

Breidden Hills fell race

Race: Breidden Hills fell race (7m/2000ft/AM)
Time/Position: 1:02:06 (14th from 155 [3rd V40])

The climax of the Welsh Fell Running Championships, the final race of the 2011 series, and as such a crucial event for me. Although I'd already done four of the races in all four corners of Wales (Llanbedr-Blaenafon, Llangynhafal Loop, 1000m Peaks, Ras Beca) I had yet to do a 'Medium' distance race, and my previous scores would have counted for nothing if I'd failed to turn out here. So the pressure was on a bit, and the field was unsurprisingly big and strong with a large contingent of runners in the V40 category. I was therefore relieved to feel quite good for the long, gentle climb up the fireroads to Middletown Hill although I slowed considerably as a strong headwind battered us for the steep climbs over the main ridge. I settled into a better rhythm as the ground levels off a bit for the picturesque rocky climb over Moel y Golfa, picking up places on the flatter wooded section before the final steep climb up Rodney's Pillar. I was glad that I'd done the race before, winning the V40 category last year, because a local gamekeeper had removed much of the tape and the route is rather complex! However, I still had some anxious navigational moments as I tried to stick with the group in front. Generally, though, I knew that my position was irrelevant and I just had to get a decent time in comparison to the leaders to record a reasonable final score in the championships. I ended up within a few seconds of last year's time, which was a tad disappointing but maybe I could blame the wind or over-racing! Excellent post-race food and a nice prize-giving at the village hall later on. I finished first V40/Vet in the 2011 Welsh Championships, and second in the overall Open competition, with 355 points. Between 86-91 in each race, which varied from the 4 mile dash over the Preseli Hills to the 22 mile epic of the 1000m peaks race. Consistently mediocre, in other words! It has been a thoroughly enjoyable and satisfying series, genuinely 'pan-Welsh' in geography and spirit.

Sunday, October 02, 2011

Arenig Fawr fell race

Race: Arenig Fawr fell race (7m/2000ft/AM)
Time/Position: 1:05:30 (4th from 33 [3rd V40])

In danger of slipping into the trap of over-racing/under-training, yet again, but I couldn't resist a crack at this great event. The stunning weather of last week gave way to good running conditions of high cloud, cooler temperatures, albeit accompanied by strongish winds. I know the peak well, although I'd never done the race before. It heads up the track past the crags and lake - a very fast start - and remains runnable for much of the long ridge above Y Castell. It then moves right across boggy moorland to gain the summit ridge well away from the steeper rocky cwm I would normally take. I was battling for third place throughout most of the climb, but felt sluggish and slow throughout, and was passed by three or four runners just after the summit cairn. Mindful of next weekend's crucial Welsh Champs decider, and my dodgy achilles, I gingerly picked down the rocky summit slopes before opening out a bit lower down and regaining the places I'd lost. I took a fairly good line down, finally feeling less sluggish as we hit very boggy ground, and ended up missing 3rd place overall by 4 seconds. Won a prize for first V40 although the first two runners were also in the category. Fabulous cakes and soup for the finishers - a real shame that the turnout was so low this year.

Friday, September 30, 2011

Cloggy climbing

Crag: Clogwyn du'r Arddu, Yr Wyddfa
Routes: Great Slab (VS 4c,4a,4b,4a,4a:led p.2,4)

A sustained spell of extraordinary hot, dry weather. Indeed, the first time the high crags had come into condition since April, so it was worth making a special effort to get out. Moreover, it was particularly satisfying to tick this historic route, which I've been wanting to do for 20 years, right at the end of the feasible 'season'. Vic and I treated the walk-in as training, and managed it in just over an hour from Llanberis (pleasant memories of the Snowdon race in July, the only other occasion I would ever dream of using this path). Leaving the tourist path below Allt Moses to move into the shadow of this unique crag is always special, but particularly so today as the temperature dropped dramatically as we skirted the east buttress. The first pitch of Great Slab is excellent, a delicate traverse on small positive holds before a superb groove soars up to the belay. The exposure starts to bite on the next pitch, which I led, which traverses right to climb an easy rib and another traverse to a spike. I belayed in the broken ground further right, giving Vic the soaking wet '40ft corner'. This was slimy, despite the weather, but went easily enough by using holds on the right wall then moving onto the slab. Indeed, this pitch and the slab itself were both far more enjoyable than they look from below. I led a long 4th pitch, moving diagonally left across the Great Slab itself: easy climbing but tremendously atmospheric and enjoyable. The final pitch up the left edge of the slab is even better, giving superbly positioned climbing. All very memorable, with a real mountaineering flavour, as was the descent down the now infrequently used (for good reason) Western Terrace. This takes a series of shelves, with lots of debris, down to some wet grooves and honeycombed, mossy rock below the overhangs. We retired early, in order to enjoy a beer and bara brith on the sunny patio of the excellent restored cottage at the bottom of the tourist path.

Sunday, September 25, 2011

Rab Mountain Marathon

Race: Rab Mountain Marathon, day two
Peaks: Foel Dduarth, Yr Orsedd, Foel Fras, Yr Elen, Gyrn Wigau
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
Time/Position: 220pts in 4:36 (33rd from 300 [62nd overall])

Salvaged a bit of pride today, although it was still a pedestrian performance well down on previous years in this event. Started early, after a good night's sleep, slogging up to the top of Foel Dduarth and contouring the ridge to Yr Orsedd - all very familiar territory in beautiful muted early morning light, so I was taking good lines and landing bang on the controls. More contouring down to Llyn Anafon, then very steeply up to the CP below Llwytmor. There was, sadly, inevitably an element of 'retracing steps' about today's route, given the restricted nature of the course. But after dibbing the CP above Melynllyn I embarked on a long contouring traverse above Dulyn to drop down to a big value CP in Ffynnon Llyffnant - a beautiful isolated high cwm that I haven't visited since doing some easy snow climbs here in the mid 1990s. I was going well, and slogged up to dib again on the main Carneddau ridge, then take the contouring path to a 40 pointer on the summit of Yr Elen. Local knowledge a big help for all these, as I landed bang on everything with minimal effort. Nice weather, with some cloud, all helped. I was well ahead of schedule, just enjoying the unpressured nature of the day, so finished with the steep climb up Gyrn Wigau (painful memories of the climax of May's Carneddau race) before dibbing a few more checkpoints on the very relaxed jog in to the finish above Rachub. Great fun, as always, but obviously a bit disappointed with the overall result compared to previous years.

Saturday, September 24, 2011

Rab Mountain Marathon

Race: Rab Mountain Marathon, day one
Peaks: Carnedd Llewellyn, Foel Grach, Drum, Tal y Fan
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
Time/Position: 200 pts in 5:36

Having just missed a podium place last year in this, my favourite event, I could hardly believe that this year it was taking place in my spiritual home - the mountain region I know best of all. What a shame, then, that a monumental error and a large slice of bad luck this afternoon was to completely ruin any chance I had of improving on last year's effort. It all started reasonably well from Bethesda in persistent rain and low cloud, although I was taken aback by how restricted the 'field of play' was (with the eastern Carneddau virtually all out-of-bounds). I headed up to Cwm Llafur via various checkpoints: weird to be in the dramatic, yet familiar, terrain below the Black Ladders with hundreds of other people. After a tricky to find CP opposite Llech Ddu, which took me longer than it should have done, I slogged up Nant Fach to another on the main Carneddau ridge before heading over the top of Llewellyn in thick mist and pacing it down to a 30 pointer in Afon Wen. I sowed the seeds of my later destruction here, by unaccountably failing to go for another big CP above Melynllyn as the mist dramatically cleared. This put me way ahead of schedule as I took great 'local knowledge' lines contouring Foel Fras to a CP above Llwytmor before contouring awkwardly through the crags to a CP on the summit of Drum. Just over 3 hours to this point, with almost 200 points in the bag already. As a result, I found myself disastrously lured out to the big value checkpoints on the other side of Tal y Fan (rather than hoovering up those directly below me, which would have given me an easy, albeit wastefully early, finish). So I ran flat out round the side of Carnedd y Ddelw and down to Bwlch y Ddaefaen. I really was on home ground here, and contoured Foel Lwyd and Tal y Fan intent on bagging a 40 pointer in a ruin on the Pen fell race route. I didn't bother with the compass - foolish, as a thick sea mist unexpectedly rolled in just after I left the summit wall. Just a few metres of visibility, with no accurate position: so locating the CP was a hopeless task even though I could envisage the position of the ruin from the Pen fell race and dozens of walks in this area. After sweeping the hillside I found myself running out of time and eventually gave up and headed back for the camp in infuriating bright sunshine. The worst error I have ever made on a mountain marathon: it meant almost 3 hours virtually without scoring, so whereas last year I was 9th overall after day one, today I finished in 122nd place. A wonderful, memorable camp above Aber made up for it all though. Delightful views over the Menai Straits in lovely sunny weather, with me in a perfect pitch looking down the valley.

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Llanberis slate climbing

Crag: Llanberis Slate
Routes: UBL (HS 4b:led), Clash of the Titans (f6a:led), Plastic Soldier (f6a:sec)

After weeks of rain in Snowdonia, slate was the only realistic option today. I really didn't have any time to waste, so it was hugely frustrating to find that the weather forecast was wrong and the front that had been forecast to move through in the early hours was still depositing large amounts of moisture as I arrived at 10am! After a very unwelcome fester in the cafe, we walked around the crags waiting for it to dry. Instead, it rained again. After a dank lunch in Serengeti, we gave up and walked back - but the sun came out as we approached the car so we headed up to Australia to salvage something. UBL was still damp, and I'd done it before, but it gave a reasonable warm-up. Above, the Skyline Buttress was dry (and cold!), so Mick and I then repeated the two big 40m pitches we'd enjoyed in June - but led the ones we'd seconded last time. Clash is probably slightly harder than Plastic Soldier, with a tricky crux half way up involving a semi-rockover edging on a tiny foothold, but it finishes easily up a juggy crack. Both routes are long (15 bolts) and absorbing f6a pitches up an impressive slab in a great position at the top of the quarries. Precise edging, nice delicate straitforward climbing.

Sunday, September 18, 2011

Penmaen ridge

I've probably driven past this line a thousand times without bothering to investigate further. It's the obvious stepped limestone ridge which rises directly above the A55 west of Conwy. It was an ideal choice today as I had less than an hour free but needed a recovery jog after yesterday's race. I was on my way back from doing radio in Bangor, so parked in Dwygyfylchi and ran through the woods to Pen Pyra after an initial 2 mile warm-up on roads and paths round the village. The ridge is worth a few minutes of anyone's time, a surprisingly worthwhile outing. It gives gentle scrambling (grade II) but is well defined, and contains 3 or 4 steeper sections with good holds throughout. Near the top, a steep wall is taken via a slanting groove to regain the main ridge line. I carried on up scree and heather to the top of Penmaen Bach, which gives brilliant sea views to Anglesey and the Orme. Good running over Allt Wen, dark clouds gathering yet again over the Carneddau, led to the top of the Sychnant Pass and back down to the village.

Saturday, September 17, 2011

Llyn Brenig race

Race: Llyn Brenig Multi-Terrain race (9m+)
Time/Position: 57:52 (8th from 72 [1st V40])

Another week, another painful circumnavigation of a lake. Rather alarmingly, however, six days was not enough recovery time for me: felt off the pace from the outset and didn't feel especially comfortable at any point. Started quite quickly on the tarmac sections along the west shore, perked up a bit for the hilly fireroads and the boggy fell race style section around the north end of the lake. But then I struggled again, slowing considerably, for the switchback fireroads - strong headwind at times - and the final sprint along the dam. That said, we had a perfect weather window for the race (heavy showers before and after) and it is a great event. Last time I did it, I failed to break the hour. Managed it quite easily this time, although was probably lucky to win my category. Rehydrated at the Denbigh beer festival.

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Eglwyseg climbs/run

Crag: Craig y Forwen/World's End, Eglwyseg
Routes: End Flake (HVD:sh), Shelfway (S:sh), Hornwall variant (HVS 5a:sh), White Crack (VD:sol), As Yew Like It (S:sh)

An unusual sunny morning, and a very early start followed by a jog down to the crag from the moor. Just a few quick shunts of old favourite climbs, all horribly polished now, after which I picked my way up and down Hornbeam Wall/Hornwall several times for training purposes. A bit of bouldering to finish, followed by a run from the crag up to the moor then across to the top of Cyrn y Brain. Still very breezy, but clear. Still quite tired after Sunday's race, but a short riverside jog yesterday had loosened the limbs somewhat.

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Lake Vyrnwy half marathon

Race: Lake Vyrnwy half marathon
Time/Position: 1:18:25 (26th from 1346 [6th V40])

A rare foray onto tarmac and my first proper road race of 2011. As such I was entirely dependent on a summer of fell races for any 'speed', having also not done any intervals or formal speedwork all year. Inevitably, the first few miles were therefore a huge shock to the system and I really didn't think I could sustain even the modest 6 minute/mile pace I was doing. As early as the second mile I started to struggle, and the section along the south side of the lake to mile five didn't fill me with optimism as I barely managed to keep pace. However, I gradually adapted to the shock of endless flat tarmac and began to feel much better as I turned the corner. It was a very windy day, but this is about the most sheltered course possible, hemmed in by hills, tree-lined and pleasantly scenic throughout. Despite this, we did get some headwinds on the way back - strong gusts which made life difficult. I concentrated on moving from runner to runner but was never able to draft properly! I caught Jez just before the end, then immediately developed a dreadful stitch just when I wanted to increase the pace on the final downhill mile. This, and the wind, lost me a bit of time but I managed to sustain almost exact 6 min splits throughout the entire race (5:59). A weird distance for me, the half marathon. I've probably done 30 of them over many years (including this one in 2003, when it took me 1:52!) but have entered far fewer recently and have never recorded a decent time due to various misfortunes. As a result, this took a huge 3 mins of my PB - although it remains a minute or two slower than it should theoretically be.

Thursday, September 01, 2011

Clwydian run

After a disastrous attempt at half marathon training on the roads last night (exhaustion, upset stomach) this was a pleasantly relaxed longer outing in welcome sunshine. Up Foel Fenlli from Llanferres via the Druid race route, round the earthworks, then down Offa's Dyke to Clwyd Gate. I felt slightly better for the long, gradual climb over the shoulder of Moel Gyw and down to Llanarmon. An extended interval back to Llanferres completed the loop.

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Tremadog climbing

Crag: Craig Bwlch y Moch, Tremadog
Routes: Hail Bebe (VD:led p.2,4), Striptease (VS 5a:sec), The Fang (HVS 5a,5a:sec), Meshach (HVS 4c,5a:led p.1)

Despite the supposed arrival of high pressure after weeks of unsettled weather since we returned from France, dispiriting steady drizzle accompanied my drive west. Tremadog is the obvious choice in such circumstances, but it was still raining as I met Mick at the cafe, so we went up to Bwlch y Moch to do an easy route. I'd never considered doing Hail Bebe before, but it's a nice route. Mick led up a short thrutchy chimney, before I 'led' the scrappy path through a jungle to merge with the next pitch, which takes a nice clean crack up to a comfortable tree. Mick led up the continuation crack, pleasant, to the stance on One Step. The rain got heavier as I led the final pitch which takes the obvious exposed traverse line also taken by the final pitch of One Step (which I last did in 1994). This is polished and hence required care in the wet conditions: I foot traversed the flake, as the grade suggests. We then met Vic, and waited in the cafe for the rain to stop. It was still spitting after a cuppa so we did the classic wet weather option up the steep chimney of Striptease. I've led this before and remembered it well, so Mick brought us both up as a warm-up. It's a good little route - with three distinct cruxes up small overhangs, made much easier by adopting a 'traditional' approach. The rock in the chimney is almost like juggy tufa limestone in places, reminiscent of some routes at Chateauvert for instance. By the time we abbed down, the rain had stopped, so Vic led the first pitch of The Fang. This goes up an awkward crack before traversing across to good moves laybacking a steep crack with little footholds on a small arete. Tricky to do it as a rope of three, so I waited on top of the pillar while Mick led through. The second pitch gives superb and varied climbing, across the steep wall below 'the fang'. Very fingery until you find the crucial pocket. Then a blind grope around the arete, for which I went too high and was faced with delicate edging until I moved lower down to gain better holds. The route than changes character as you inch up the long slab - immaculate, quite delicate climbing with small positive holds and superb rock throughout. Little pockets and flakes make it straightforward but never too obvious or simple. I then led the first pitch of Meshach, another very obvious gap in my Tremadog CV. This was just what I needed after a summer with little climbing: long (35m), absorbing, well-protected and very enjoyable. It takes an intricate, weaving line between Grim Wall and Shadrach. Up blocky rock to a nice groove, then easily up to the flake on Shadrach before a delicate traverse left on little positive holds to a tiny ledge. Up a crack to a perfect spike, after which I continued up the crack rather than moving left to the belay - I was obviously enjoying myself too much! This gave another traverse and meant event more weaving around. The top pitch is even better. Steep flakes and ledges lead up to the peg, before superb moves above the overlap using a small pocket and one polished foothold gain easier climbing. Another intricate pitch, which then moves left before a long traverse right on perfectly positioned small positive holds. Surprisingly unpolished and a really great route - probably does warrant HVS, but low in the grade.

Monday, August 29, 2011

Moel Famau fell race

Race: Cilcain Mountain Race (5m/1237ft/AS)
Time/Position: 35:59 (9th from 165 [2nd V40])

Although I was one place higher up the field than last year, and took 25 seconds off my time, I failed to retain the veteran's trophy - probably just proving that I was a tad lucky to win it last year. That said, given the fact that I still had Ras Beca in my legs from Saturday, I felt this went reasonably well (a novelty pre-race haircut at the Cilcain show helped by removing 0.5 grams!). It's a very different style of race to Ras Beca, of course, with a lot more climbing and a lot less bog. However, I did feel a bit tired and stiff until we got to the steeper section up the zigzags where I got into my stride and began to pick up places. Got to the top in less than 20 minutes and retained my place during a reasonable descent (by recent standards anyway, given achilles problems). Felt stronger than usual on the final climb back to the village and gained a place here. Unseasonably cold throughout. My 8th running of this race.

Saturday, August 27, 2011

Ras Beca

Race: Ras Beca (5m/1050ft/BS)
Time/Position: 41:03 (10th from 110 [3rd V40])

A classic short race across the Preseli Hills in North Pembrokeshire, perhaps better suited to amphibians and other aquatic creatures than normal bipeds. Although I didn't really need to do this as a Welsh Champs counter, having already done a 'short' at Llangynhafal, it was a good excuse to make a family weekend of it in this lovely area. We camped in a tranquil spot below the hills in Blaenffos and enjoyed some pleasant outings before the race, which starts in the middle of nowhere and involves plunging into a neck-deep bog after an initial 400m sprint. This sets the tone, bog and tussocks across an empty moor heading for the mercifully dry(ish) slopes of Carn Goedog. Local knowledge helped for this initial section, and so I inevitably lost ground before clawing a bit back as we ran across the main Preseli ridge to Mynydd Bach and along the side of Foel Feddau. Not really enough climbing to suit me, but I had a good descent and felt reasonably strong as we re-entered the bog of Waun Brwynant. At least one headlong fall on this section (I later discovered I'd bruised my armpit, a novel injury) but I gained a place or two during the manic finish, which involves negotiating a taped-off maze through a giant bog with numerous stretches of waist-deep open water. All this for the benefit of the spectators: excellent fun, a great event, and particularly satisfying to have visited all four corners of Wales during this year's Championships.

Monday, August 22, 2011

Tryfan climbing

Peaks/Crag: Tryfan (East Face)
Routes: Grooved Arete (VD:led p.1,3), Belle Vue Bastion (VS 4c,4b:led p.2), Linear Climb (S 4a:led), Gashed Crag (VD: led p.1,3), Bubbly Wall (HS 4b:led)

A bit of a trip down memory lane, as it's been 20 years since I last did the classic mountaineering routes of Gashed Crag and Grooved Arete. The day had a bit more than that, though, and was a very satisfying outing. Some mist and black clouds as Mick and I slogged up to the Heather Terrace, both of us still a bit tired after Saturday's tough race and a 10k recovery run yesterday. I led the first pitch of Grooved Arete, which goes up a very polished corner before taking steeper cracks up to easy slabs. The second pitch is better, culminating in a lovely delicate groove. The route was obviously even more polished than it was back in 1991! I led a scrappy third, then we moved together for another 50m pitch, finding the most continuous line up broken rocks to the base of Terrace Wall but sadly missing the best upper pitches of GA. There was a good reason for this, though, as neither of us had done Belle Vue Bastion before, and it is a wonderful line up the imposing front of the steep Terrace Wall. Easy climbing over blocks leads to a short groove, before a tricky move on little positive pockets gains a curving narrow slab. Neat moves up this to the Grove of Bollards, a fantastic place with mist swirling around and intermittent views down to Ogwen. Superb rough rock throughout this route, a huge contrast with GA's polish. I led the spectacular but easy second, with its famously photogenic traverse above the void to gain a groove and mantelshelf which leads to easier climbing. This section was mossy and wet, however, after several weeks of unsettled weather. A fine climb, low in the grade with only one tricky move, marred only by its brevity. We descended North Gully, then I led Linear Climb - on the left of Terrace Wall - after a brief lunch. This was slightly disappointing, not helped by the fact that it was wet and dirty. A nice groove goes up to a small roof, good moves left avoid the roof to gain a slab, then steep moves on flat holds lead to another groove. I climbed above the belay for a few metres and brought Mick up. The rest of the second pitch looked pointless - a wet, mossy scramble, so we traversed off into North Gully and enjoyed scrambling down Little Gully back down to Heather Terrace. It seemed very likely that our next target, Munich Climb, would be soaking, so we did the other uber-classic Gashed Crag instead. Again, 20 years since I did this and, again, it was even more polished than I remembered. We romped up the route in just over an hour, though, really good fun. I led the long first up surprisingly steep and polished cracks, while Mick merged the thin grooves up to the 'Gash' with the polished chimney, a notorious thrutch. The chimney is particularly awkward with big sacks, which is what we both had, and I had vague memories of Tim and I having to dump ours and come back for it later! Fine alpine climbing up the easy ridge led in two pitches to the final wall, where I decided to lead the alternative (much better) finish up Bubbly Wall. I had no memory of doing this before. An awkward scramble up to a wet crack precedes an exciting sequence across the left wall on small holds to gain a small arete and then the upper wall. This has lovely rough pocketed holds, as the route's name suggests, but was wet and mossy in places today. Nothing too troubling, though, and a fine way to finish on the South Summit in atmospheric mist. Well over 1000ft of climbing today, I would have thought, which was nice after such an inactive summer in rock climbing terms. We jogged down the south ridge to the stile, then down the scree to the Cwm Tryfan path. More gentle running down the cwm below the increasingly mist-shrouded East Face back to Ogwen.

Saturday, August 20, 2011

Lletty fell race

Race: Lletty (9m/2900ft/AM)
Time/Position: 1:25:57 (3rd from 44 [1st V40])

When I last did this route two years ago I came away thinking that it was the hardest fell race in NE Wales. Although I surprised myself by taking well over five minutes off my 2009 time today, I still think it is the toughest local race: a splendid, satisfying workout. The start is brutal, a vertical (seemingly!) mile of climbing from the bottom of the Vale of Clwyd up to the main ridge, followed by a short-lived descent to the ultra-steep climb up Moel Arthur. I didn't feel very good on this, having not warmed up properly, and found myself well behind Neil, Jez and another runner as we crested Arthur. But then I gradually started to gain on third place during the climb back up to Moel Llys y Coed. Good running along the ridge, light rain and wind, before the long descent down to the Cilcain reservoir. Then comes the contouring and boggy climb all the way up to Moel Famau. I felt slow and over-cautious on all the descents, concerned about the achilles, and lost sight of the third runner on all of them: particularly the very long descent from Famau back down to the bottom of the Vale. However, as we climbed yet again back up to the ridge at Moel Dywyll, a viscious climax, I realised I had the legs to gradually gain on him and passed him just below the ridge. He was still close for the long run along the ridge, but I managed to pull out a bigger gap along the undulating ridge to finish 3rd overall. My first race since Snowdon, so quite pleased that all the recent cycling doesn't seem to have done any harm.

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Filiast scrambles/Glyderau run

Peaks/Crag: Carnedd y Filiast, Mynydd Perfedd, Foel Goch, Y Garn
Routes: Solo Slab (D:sol), Underlap (VD:sol), Little One (M:sol), Undulation (M:sol), The Waved Slab/Seagull (D:sol)
Area: Glyderau, Eryri

A small weather window in an unstable week, and an even smaller two hour window for me to squeeze some scrambling and running into a family day out. Kate dropped me off on the A5 at Ty'n y Maes and I ran flat out down the old road to Tai Newyddion. The usual tough steep slog along the wall into Cwm Graeanog and straight up to the Red Slab. All the routes here are in the same vein, easy slabs and excellent friction: a perfect spot for solo wandering. I climbed the left side of Solo Slab up a quartz crack, then did Underlap on the main slab. This is a fine companion to Central Route (see May 2010) and takes a sort of tubular groove curving rightwards up the slab. Lovely simple movement, leading to a ledge and dirty corner. I went up this to the block, but it was very vegetated so I descended the corner and nipped up the slab of Little One before traversing across to the scree and slogging up to the waved slab. After all the recent rain, I was not surprised to find wet black moss across the lower 20m of this. The solution was obvious, however: I took the clean narrow rib of Undulation in the left-hand gully, pleasant scrambling which eases quickly, then traversed right to the Waved Slab a little higher up. This is unique: a dried-up seabed which gives an unusual slabby scramble moving from 'wave' to wave. Wet in places, rather insecure higher up with more moss and vegetation, and surprisingly lengthy (at least 150m). I took the left-hand edge of the slab for the most part, which is actually the VD line of Seagull. At the top, it deteriorates into heather shelves so I moved left into the gully. Fine running over the summit of Filiast then along the ridge to Perfedd. Clouds clearing Snowdon, some watery sunshine through the high cloud. Ran all the way up the steep zigzags to Foel Goch, then up Y Garn before running down Banana Ridge to meet Kate in Ogwen cottage. Exactly two hours in total.

Sunday, August 14, 2011

Tour of the Peak

Cycle Sportive: Tour of the Peak long route (100m)
Time/Position: 7:40 (153 from 280)

This was a pleasingly tough way of concluding the year's road cycling interlude, always with the knowledge that if I hadn't picked up my running injury last Christmas I wouldn't have even sat on a bike. It was nice to be able to exploit any bike-specific fitness gained from my recent Alpine trip, but I am still way off the pace in these events - very much the novice - and completely unable to generate any kind of speed on the flat and therefore painfully slow overall compared to the serious cyclists. The climbs, where I presumably benefit more as a fell runner, are a different story: I am rarely passed on the steeper stuff, and there was plenty of that today as this route (based on the oldest bike race in Britain) takes in the Peak's three most notorious climbs of the Cat and Fiddle, Winnats Pass and Holme Moss. They are not what makes this event hard, though. Rather, it is the smaller digs scattered throughout the 100 miles which sap the energy (over 3000m/10000ft of climbing spread over the 100 miles apparently). I set off at 7.20am from Chapel en le Frith, riding up into the mist during the first climb past Windgather rocks (memories of my 40 rock climbs here last September). Some steep sections, and short drops, gain the descent to Macclesfield. The climb up the Cat and Fiddle was perfect for me - Alpine style, longish (7m) and gentle, with no need for the small ring. Exactly 30m from Macc to the pub, an ideal echo of my trips up the Galibier, Izoard et al a week or two ago. After a fine descent across the moors into the pretty limestone of the White Peak, the route climbed Miller's Dale to the first feed at Tideswell after 33m. Felt very fresh at this point, as the route swung round various climbs to Castleton and the savage climb up Winnats Pass. Lovely sunshine and a slight headwind for this famously steep 2k, which ramps up to 20% towards the top. I managed to ride it all without stopping, seeing at least three cyclists topple over. The climb continues over Mam Nick, and I comforted myself with the knowledge that the last time I passed this point I was in far more discomfort (the final stages of the Edale Skyline fell race in March 2009!). A great ride down the Vale of Edale all the way to Bamford and Ladybower reservoir. Then a climb up the Sheffield road and an unwelcome series of steep climbs and descents which lasted all the way north over Strines Moor and Bradfield Moor to the second feed at Langsett. Some brutally steep sections. Steady light rain and a headwind for the crossing of the bleak moorland around Crow Edge before a wet descent to Holmfirth. Then comes the crux: the climb up Holme Moss. In normal circumstances this would be OK but after 75 miles and much climbing its steep hairpins were rather painful. A fast descent, sunny again, led to yet more climbing above Torside Reservoir over Devil's Elbow to Glossop, then another dig up Chunal Moor for which I got a second wind and blasted it in a big gear. Another pull from Hayfield over Chinley Head gained the final descent to Chapel. Much harder than the Cheshire Cat (see March 2011), this was a satisfying circuit of the Peak, even if the dank moors, drizzle and poor road surfaces did made me pine for the Alps a bit!

Tuesday, August 09, 2011

London riot run

Needed a long road run, as late and inadequate preparation for the forthcoming Vyrnwy half marathon - but I never expected it to involve sprinting through riot-torn streets. Left Dunkirk at 8am after a long drive from Provence yesterday, and arrived in Chingford at midday after driving past the burning warehouse in Enfield Lock. All a bit of a culture shock after my last run amidst the vineyards of Gigondas, and Saturday's ride up Ventoux! I ran from Chingford through the industrial estates to the Sony warehouse, huge plumes of choking black smoke billowing across the road with bits of debris scattered all over the road. A unique experience running through the smoke, past police, onlookers and firemen, followed by the weird atmosphere around Ponders End and Chingford Mount - boarded up shops and a palpable tense air following last night's violence. An interesting run, but actually quite valuable in training terms as I kept a decent sub 7m pace going throughout the 11 miles.

Sunday, August 07, 2011

Dentelles de Montmirail

Peaks: Les Florets (620m), Dent du Turc (626m)
Area: Dentelles de Montmirail, Provence
Routes: NW Arete (uII), Chambre du Turc route (uII)

Last night's thunderstorm passed over in the early hours, but the rain did not relent. We were eventually forced to evacuate the campsite and head for a motel in Bollene. After an hour or two drying out, I realised we still had most of the day left, our last before heading north and home, so we decided to put the original plan into action and forget about the weather. I drove down through the Rhone Villages vineyards to Gigondas, which even in torrential rain looked like paradise on earth. A delightful perched village, with vineyards all around producing its famously superb wine, and a sharply pinnacled limestone ridge rising above it giving hundreds of climbs at all grades. As so often in this part of the world, it just seems a little unfair to the visitor from less fortunate parts! After walking round the village in the rain, I ran up to the Col de Cayron with torrents of mud pouring down the unmetalled track, and jogged up the steep forest tracks to the climber's path traversing the crags below the main summit of the Dent du Turc. This looks like a spire from both sides, but there is a rather remarkable 'voie normale' up it. However, I had no guidebook so initially looked for a way onto the spine of the ridge after an enjoyable though slippery scramble gained a col between the Dent and Les Florets. I spied a square-cut groove just left of the ridge crest and took this - very wet - up to the Florets ridge, which was quite spectacular even in this weather. After descending I followed a path below the Dent du Turc but couldn't find any feasible route. After returning to the col, however, I did spot some old route markers. These led up slabby shelves, fine scrambling, to some cables which give access to the Chambre du Turc - a large (bone dry!) cave. Amazingly, a green arrow pointed upwards at the back of the chamber, so I followed it, squeezing into a tight slanting tunnel that twisted up and round towards daylight. A further wet squirm through a puddle saw me pop out of the tunnel to gain a ledge above the west face and an easy scramble to the top. Unexpected, to say the least! I was completely soaked to the skin by now, because the rain did not relent throughout. After reversing the scramble, I ran flat out back to the car, arriving less than an hour after leaving.

Saturday, August 06, 2011

Mont Ventoux

Road cycling: Bedouin-Mont Ventoux-Bedouin
Distance/Climb: 50k/1622m
Peaks: Mont Ventoux (1909m)

If Alpe d'Huez was a predictable way to start the holiday, the 'Geant de Provence' was an equally predictable finale, squeezed into a brief halt on our long journey home. The most legendary climb of all, it did not disappoint. After pitching the tent just outside Bedouin, I began the classic route up, the one always used by the Tour. A headwind battered me even as I made my way up the gentle slopes above the village with vineyards on either side: a buffeting higher up seemed likely. This first section is easy, but there is no chance of being lulled into a false sense of security as the peak looms directly above - the way it rises directly from flat Provencal vineyards is what makes it so special. Then comes the brutal first hairpin, which leaves you fumbling for small gears, followed by the relentless climb through the forest. This is very different from the Alpine cols of last week, as it just goes straight up with no hairpins to ease the angle. It was quite humid, with sunny intervals, but I felt comfortable and well trained after last week's exploits, so just churned upwards in a small gear. The long pull is disrupted by one steep hairpin, before you leave the main forest section and see the summit again, still looking pretty distant. The route makes you work hard, staying steep all the way to the Chalet Reynard, where Kate was waiting. I was setting a reasonable time, so didn't linger, particularly as they'd understandably already spent the budget on crepes at the chalet! I'd taken about 75 minutes to Chalet Reynard, and felt great as the angle eases for the top section of the climb, which is hugely atmospheric and completely unique. All vegetation is left behind as you climb through the bare scree slopes of the upper mountain. I clicked up through the gears and went for it, passing numerous struggling cyclists. The wind was swirling around, giving me the classic Ventoux treatment. At times, it came from behind, at times from the side, until it battered straight into me for the final 2k past the Simpson memorial. This gave me a taste of the battle I'd been hoping for from Ventoux. Black clouds glowered ahead as I passed a Dutch cyclist to take the brunt of the wind past the final very steep hairpin to the summit in 1:49 from Bedouin, which I think is a relatively respectable time - for a runner at least! The summit was suitably hostile - cold and windy, with dark clouds overhead and limited views of the plains beyond. I descended to the Simpson memorial to pay my respects before enjoying the sensational descent, plummeting down the slopes into the warm air of the plains. Kate only caught up with me as the road levels out beyond the forest. A lovely evening in Bedouin followed, before the black clouds we'd been watching all day really got their act together and flooded the campsite with a violent and lengthy thunderstorm.

Thursday, August 04, 2011

Corniche d'Or-Col du Testanier loop

Road cycling: Esterel-Cannes-Col du Testanier-Frejus-Esterel
Distance: 70k

Hard to imagine a more glamorous, scenic or varied short cycling loop than this. I left the caravan later than I would normally leave for a run, but still before 7.30am, and headed down to Agay before heading east along the Corniche d'Or. I've driven down here on many occasions, and cycled part of it on Tuesday, but to do the entire ride in morning sunshine was still memorable. Hundreds of other cyclists were doing the same thing, with the superb red walls of the Esterel peaks rising to the left and the low sunlight glittering off the sea to the right. The Corniche is surprisingly hilly at times, as the road negotiates the tight calanques beyond Antheor. All the fun ends as you enter the suburbs of Cannes after La Napoule, however. I had no map, and had a bit of a nightmare locating the N7 to Frejus through the Esterel massif. After several detours, I got the right road after consulting a bus stop map, and it gave a 15k climb up to the Col de Testanier. This was excellent, a miniature version of my Alpine ascents with perhaps 1000ft of climbing, and led through St Jean to shaded woodland and an easing of the angle to the Col de Testanier. It's probably a more consistent climb from the Frejus side: that side certainly gave a brilliant descent, very fast, before leaving me with the tricky task of negotiating the Frejus suburbs past St Raphael and Valescure to the campsite. We all had a family bike ride around the Perthus loop yesterday, which was equally good fun.

Tuesday, August 02, 2011

Dramont climbing

Crag: Cap Dramont, Esterel
Routes: Mirliton Productions (f4:led), RER (f3+:led), Slab Route 1 (f3+:sol), Slab Route 2 (f3+:sol), Slab Route 3 (f3+:sol), Slab Route 4 (f3+:sol), Slab Route 5 (f3+:sol)

After a rest on Sunday completed an entire week off running and gave my achilles a much needed chance to recover from the Snowdon race and other recent traumas, I enjoyed my favourite 8 mile run from the caravan round the Esterel via the Gorge du Perthus yesterday. Enjoyed so much, indeed, that I did it again at 6.30am this morning with low shafts of sunlight through the eucalyptus woods. The problematic achilles felt relatively good throughout. We then headed off for another family climbing session at Dramont. I led the fun and slabby Mirliton Productions at UK S (done before), which M managed quite easily, and then both E and M followed me up RER which takes the slabby lower arete. Dramont works as a morning summer venue if you stick to the west-facing walls, but RER was in full sunshine and therefore a tad uncomfortable, so we retired to the pool after I'd played around on the simple routes on the delightful slab of superb rough rock above the sea and opposite the Ile d'Or.

Saturday, July 30, 2011

Col d'Allos

Road cycling: Barcelonette-Col d'Allos-Allos
Distance/Climb: 40k/1150m

The onward route to the coastal part of our holiday in Esterel led over the Col d'Allos towards Colmars and Castellane, so it seemed rude not to ride it on my final day in the saddle. Indeed, it was always integral to the schedule and a climb I very much wanted to do. It provided a nice continuation to the previous day, heading ever further south, and was at one time a regular feature of the Tour. Another perfect crisp sunny morning as I set off from Barcelonette with Kate following. The climb winds up above the valley of the Bachelard. It felt like I'd recovered well from yesterday's exertions (I'd certainly consumed enough calories last night!) as I pushed a bigger gear and made good progress up the fairly gentle inclines. The road emerges from the trees as it embarks on a very long curve around the gorge of the Torrent d'Agneliers, with spectacular views down sheer drops to the south and over to the famously well-named Barcelonette peaks of the Pain de Sucre and Chapeau de Gendarme. The steepest section follows up a series of tortuous hairpins on very narrow roads (horrendous for Kate driving) to finally emerge on steep Alpine meadows below the broad ridge of the Serre de la Crous. The peak of the Cheval de Bois is immediately opposite, and the views north absolutely superb for this top section which is relatively gentle. We all met up at the Refuge on top of the col at 2250m. This was a great moment, as it marked our entry into the familiar territory of the Mercantour and the area around Allos visited last year. Perfect clarity for the views over the Mourre Gros - a stunning backdrop to an amazing descent, more confident now, and dropping like a stone through the hairpins to the village of Allos and a picnic in Colmars. So a great little introduction to Alpine cycling, perhaps pushing 5500-6000m of climbing, and a fine start to the family holiday despite the early rain.

Friday, July 29, 2011

Col d'Izoard/Col de Vars

Road cycling: Briancon-Col d'Izoard-Guillestre-Col de Vars-Barcelonette
Distance/Climb: 120k/2400m

As an incurable mountaineer, this was the day I really wanted. A complete contrast to the glitzy ski resorts of Alpe d'Huez, the Izoard has a romantic isolation that makes it a true classic. Combined with the Vars to the south, it gave a long and unforgettable day on the bike. What made it even more appealing was the fact that it took me to an area of the Alps I'd never explored, the Queyras. We drove over the Lauteret to Briancon and I started up the Izoard in perfect warm sunshine as Kate drove directly to Guillestre. The climb winds gently through the edge of Briancon to gain a beautiful wooded valley. The road smooth and perfect, hardly any traffic, just the sound of running water. A few short descents broke the rhythm before reaching the old village of Le Laus after which the road swings sharply to the north and climbs past verdant Alpine meadows and crags to pass a tiny ancient hamlet and enter a beautiful pine forest. I passed a few early starters here, although was soon passed myself by an Italian amateur team as I ploughed up the hairpins as the route steepens higher up. Steady and relentless climbing now, with 20k or so of uphill behind, emerging from the trees into a characteristic Queyras landscape of bare rock and jagged pinnacles, anticipating the drama of the Casse Deserte to the south. After the Refuge Napolean, the climb kicks up for a steeper, dramatic climax up more hairpins to the top at 2356m (1:29 from Briancon). A great place, with scores of cyclists and wonderful views south. The descent (usually climbed by the Tour) is superb, steep and twisting at first, then levelling off as it reaches the legendary Casse Deserte, a tremendous landscape of crumbling pinnacles and scree. Surely the finest backdrop to any sporting event anywhere? A short climb leads to more steep hairpins and a very fast descent through forests to the village of Cervieres. Eventually the road levels off at a junction with the route to the Agnel. I continued right through increasingly spectacular scenery as I entered the gorge above the Guil river. Superb scenery throughout, although a headwind made the level riding more difficult than it might have been. I met up with the family in Guillestre and had a short refuelling session on the children's leftovers while we dried the tent. Despite the 60k already covered, I felt OK on the slopes leading out of the village towards the next climb up the Col de Vars: yet another Tour monument. However, it soon became quite hot in the midday sun and there were no trees to give any respite. A long and steep series of hairpins with stunning views north over Pelvoux and the Ecrins made life difficult and I started to suffer for the first time on the trip, dropping into my tiniest gear. Above, a welcome gentle section leads to the village of Vars where I met the family again (Kate drove over the Vars). The rest of the climb is unfortunately a little tame by comparison with the magnificent Izoard as it wends its way through the ski resort above Vars, surprisingly steeply, before easing off for a final section through Alpine meadows to the Col at 2108m. Another exhilerating descent with new views south to the baked Mercantour, Pelat and familiar territory. Fast hairpins down in increasing warmth to the hamlet of St Paul, then a long haul through Jausiers all the way to Barcelonette, where we camped for the night.

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Le Vernis climbing

Crag: Le Vernis, Oisans
Routes: Left Corner (f5:led), Left Slab (f3:led), Right Slab (f4:des), Upper Arete (f5:led)

After descending from the Galibier, we enjoyed a cup of tea in the sunshine before driving a few hundred metres to the crag I'd seen signposted at Le Vernis. The weather was pleasant as we walked the short distance to what was, as I'd hoped, an archetypal 'ecole d'escalade' perfect for the children with easy climbs and a level base. Lots of nice looking grooves, corners and slabs, all very well bolted on good, relatively unpolished granite. I led a short juggy groove on the left of the crag to begin, nice sharp holds throughout. M followed with one bolt grab on a juggy pull through a steep section half way up, E couldn't quite manage this move. They both managed the easy slab to the left, before a large group of instructors and youths arrived and commandeered the fine looking corners I had my eye on. This was my cue to try the higher crag, which unfortunately wasn't as good, although it was bigger and did have nice views across the valley. I did a slabby traverse to the obvious arete while the children made good progress up the arete itself. A heavy and prolonged evening downpour came too late to spoil the day's varied activities.

Col de Galibier

Road cycling: Villar d'Arene-Col du Lautaret-Col du Galibier-Bourg d'Oisans
Distance/Climb: 70k/1000m

I toyed with the idea of a solo attempt on the Marmotte sportive route today, but it wouldn't have been fair on the children - and the weather was too unstable, so I settled for the short south side of the legendary Galibier. However, by including the steepest top section of the Col du Lauteret, it did at least start to replicate the stunning climax of the Tour stage exactly a week ago in which Andy Schleck climbed this south side alone. The weather had improved considerably as I set off from the final tunnel between La Grave and Villar d'Arene. This meant I got the final 10k of the Lautaret, the steepest section of the climb, and made it a lot more satisfying. Glorious sunshine as I started the hairpins, with the peaks of Les Bans and lower slopes of the Meije starting to emerge from the mist and providing happy memories of my last trip here back in 1994. All very welcome after yesterday's torrential rain, although still rather cool. The Lauteret itself is a major pass linking the Romanche and Guisans valleys, and I had a huge grin on my face as I turned off for the Galibier. Hundreds of cyclists everywhere, the road covered with last week's graffiti, and a tremendous prospect of the road rising up to the col ahead. The gradients are gentle at around 7%, but it still takes some effort to negotiate the huge hairpin in the middle of the climb. I tried to stick in a bigger gear than yesterday and made good progress, passing a few other cyclists as I neared the Desgrange monument. Some light drizzle as I turned right at the tunnel for the 'new' road which goes at least 100m higher and gives a much steeper 12+% climax to the route. A great finish, for which a Belgian hooked on to my rear wheel giving the illusion that we were competing for a stage win. The mist was down on the 2645m summit, and I would estimate the temperature at around 5c. No place to linger, but I came prepared with jacket and hat, and this time thoroughly enjoyed the swooping descent to Villar d'Arene, where I joined the family for lunch (1:50 there and back). From here, the descent to Bourg is too tempting, so I followed Kate in the car for 30k down the Lauteret back to the campsite: superb, despite the tunnels.

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Alpe d'Huez

Road cycling: Le Vernis-Alpe d'Huez-Le Vernis
Distance/Climb: 40k/1120m

The most iconic of all Tour climbs - this was the predictable starting point for my brief assault on Alpine cycling. We drove towards Bourg d'Oisans in increasingly despondent mood, as it became clear that my good weather luck (which was lasted most of 2011) had run out. Torrential rain as we pitched the tent in Le Vernis, but the Alpe was on the (tight) schedule as my evening warm-up for the bigger climbs to come over the next four days, so had to be done come rain or shine. A short warm up to Bourg, then you turn the corner and hit the climb immediately. It is an electrifying moment for a long-term Tour fan, instantly recognisable as the road ramps up to the first hairpin. Remarkably, I was sharing the mountain with the Alpe d'Huez triathlon, so had crowd support all the way up! Inevitably, and understandably, the competitors were going slowly. I was taking it very gently too, but still overtook hundreds of them all the way up. The first few hairpins are the steepest of the famed '21', but as I'd suspected it was possible to maintain a comfortable rhythm in what was admittedly a small gear. The rain remained steady, the valley below shifting in and out of the mist as I climbed up. Each bend has the name of a former stage winner and the whole place feels like a huge shrine to cycling and the Tour. The angle eases as you enter the trees but there is very little real respite. Dutch corner was still bright orange, as the Tour was here just five days ago. The rain got heavier as I reached the village in 60m after an exposed but gentler section, and became very cold and torrential as I passed the triathletes and headed for the true 'summit' which I reached in a rather slow 72m. I felt I had to be reserved for this first climb, so I'm not too ashamed of taking 35m longer than Pantani's super-human record! Then, a slight problem. Despite 20 years Alpine mountaineering experience, my novice status on the bike showed as I had failed to realise the fairly obvious fact that descending steep slopes in wet, cold weather at 2000m will quickly replicate wind-chill conditions! Cue an extremely uncomfortable semi-hypothermic descent with just a soaked windproof for protection, shivering and almost unable to pull the brakes. Gradually, the pain of the cold subsided as I dropped towards the valley and warmer air. I had to take the descent cautiously as a result of my frozen hands and the now torrential icy rain and later found that I'd melted my brake blocks. It took a hot shower, several hours in a goosedown jacket, and a portion of tartiflette to warm up. Despite all this, Alpe d'Huez in these appalling conditions made a memorable start to proceedings.

Saturday, July 23, 2011

Snowdon Race

Race: Ras yr Wyddfa/International Snowdon Race (10m/3065ft/AM)
Time/Position: 1:22:57 (54th from 500 [3rd V40])

A rare opportunity to do this blue-riband event, comfortably the biggest race on the Welsh fell running calendar. I'm normally away on holiday and have only done it once before (2007), so it was a chance to record a quicker time, particularly as conditions were good. An ideal family event with a great atmosphere, albeit rather commercial and closer to that of a city marathon than a normal fell race. I climbed reasonably cautiously but set a good rhythm and began to pick up places around Allt Moses and felt uncharacteristically strong emerging from the two steepest sections above Cwm Hetiau. The mist was down, and the cold air gave a further boost as I gained the summit in 53:55. This race is notorious for its descent accidents, and I was very conscious of my cycling trip to the Alps next week: the last thing I wanted was any leg damage! So I was perhaps a little cautious on the very fast initialy descent down past Clogwyn but held my place well and managed to pick up a couple of runners lower down, feeling quite good throughout and finishing strongly (by my standards) on the tarmac. My descent to Electric Mountain took 29 minutes exactly. Finished way down the field, which was inevitably very strong and international in character. That said, I also squeezed into the prizes as 3rd V40, which was a nice way to temporarily conclude the running whilst I take to the bike for some serious action in the Alps next week.

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Bwlch y Groes loop

Road cycling: Bala-Bwlch y Groes-Vyrnwy-Hirnant Pass-Bala
Distance: 50k

Almost certainly the final ride before the Alpine trip, so it was a bit of a shame that I was forced to dramatically shorten the intended route due to bad weather. Light drizzle as I negotiated the undulating road south of Llyn Tegid before starting the 8k climb up Bwlch y Groes. In theory, this long and gentle side of the famous pass replicates Alpine climbs reasonably well, but in reality it is for the most part a typical British climb which kicks up quite steeply at the start before levelling off for at least 3k. It ramps up again towards the top, and remains a very fine climb by UK standards. Steady drizzle became heavier at the top, with misty views of dank moorland. I had thought this was a brief weather window in a very wet week, but the rain was quite heavy at the pass. At least it gave me an excuse not to descend and reclimb the notorious Mawddwy side of the pass! Instead I descended, in horrible weather, the lovely rollercoaster road to the shores of Vyrnwy. Round this, then up the excellent climb through Aber Hirnant. This has a few sharp 20% sections at the start, then eases somewhat before steepening again through a conifer forest to gain a fine open section to the top. Great descent to Rhos y Gwaliau and back to Bala. This route was the exact opposite of the route I took last time I cycled in the Bala area, in 2004 on a mountain bike. Two hours for the round this time, not nearly enough bike-specific training given the looming reality of Galibier, Izoard, Ventoux and the rest, but it will have to do.

Thursday, July 14, 2011

Old Horseshoe Pass ride

Road cycling: HK-Cymau-Minera-World's End-Old Horseshoe Pass-Treuddyn-HK
Distance: 50k

Another road climbing circuit, as I am now squeezing as much as I can into the last few days before I tackle the Alpine cols. I was keen to do a few climbs on tired legs, as this is what I'll be doing in France, so went out the day after the Druid fell race and just tried - again - to maximise the climbing mileage on my local hills. None of these climbs are particularly suitable as Alpine training, of course, as they are generally far too short and steep, but I don't have much option! The Cymau road is a good start with two surprisingly fierce kicks. Gentler climbing from Ffrith through to the steep Brymbo road continued the theme, before I tackled Minera-World's End (the opposite way to my previous trip). This is hard to start, 15% and an awful road surface, before easing off into an Alpine style climb over the moorland. Lovely evening sunshine. At World's End, I played good samaritan to a Scouser with a snapped MTB chain, before climbing over to Pentredwr and tackling the notorious Old Horseshoe Pass. This is 1.6k with an average gradient of 13.2% and a max of 19%. It goes straight up in reasonable comfort, before kicking brutally in the middle and staying steep until the Ponderosa. Not as bad as I'd expected but still a bit of a lung buster after yesterday's fell race. Back home via Treuddyn and any other small climb I could find.

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

The Druid fell race

Race: The Druid (5m/1100ft)
Time/Position: 35:16 (5th from 123 [2nd V40])

Warm evening sunshine for this, my favourite of all the summer evening races. I missed it last year, so it was nice to be able to have a bash at the new course, which goes anticlockwise round the summit of Foel Fenlli before climbing the new steps to the top and heading down the narrow paths along the top of the 'fortifications'. I was a bit tired after my Alpine trip, indeed I'd abandoned a run yesterday exhausted, so was pleased to feel OK as we headed off from Llanferres. It's not the sort of race where you can relax much, so I just concentrated on running the whole way and trying to stay in the top five as soon as I made up the places. Unlike the earlier Hotfoot, gradients are generally gentler on this race, so it's important to keep the pace up through the woods and fields. I felt good on the climbs and managed to hold my position for the steep descent round the side of Fenlli and back through the woods to the edge of the village. Won the v40 prize though the third placed runner was also in the category.

Sunday, July 10, 2011

Toreggenkopf

Peaks: Toreggenkopf (2470m/8103ft)
Area: Zillertal Alps, Tyrol, Austria

Having done the Ahornspitze the night before, there wasn't much left for me to do from the Edel hut in the time I had left. But I spied a perfect brief opportunity in the shape of the Toreggenkopf, which is essentially a small pyramid at the top of the spur which leads down from the west ridge of the Ahornspitze and continues around the rim of the cwm almost to the cable car station. I walked out into the early morning mist (perhaps proving that last evening's tiring romp up the Ahornspitze in perfect weather was not as foolish as it seemed at the time), which gradually began to lift as I ran up the path towards the Kasselhutte. This leads to a series of chains and very mild scrambling up the headwall to gain a small col. The route then follows a delightful narrow grassy ridge to the summit - all too brief. The mist was beginning to peel away from the Ahornspitze as I began the descent. This descent was what I'd been looking forward to: nearly 2000m straight down to Mayrhofen. I had no need to conserve energy any more so decided to run the entire length of it, from the Toreggenkopf to my car in the middle of Mayrhofen, ears popping continually. The low cloud enveloped the first section past the Edel hut, but made it cooler and easier, through herds of cattle with bells clanging through the mist. It then heads more steeply and directly down zigzags to enter the treeline. Excellent running down good tracks pick up a farm track and eventually the ludicrously picturesque Alpenrose hut. From here, more beautiful Alpine woods - decorated with carved woodland animals - led to steep zigzags and the road to Mayrhofen. I ran the whole way, but it still took nearly 1:45 from summit to town. I was then finally able to relax with my first coffee for four days, and curd strudel, before driving to Kufstein and Munich.

Saturday, July 09, 2011

Ahornspitze

Peaks: Ahornspitze (2976m/9764ft)
Area: Zillertal Alps, Tyrol, Austria

I had planned to do this on my last day (tomorrow morning) but decided to nip up it before my evening meal. This was probably not the wisest decision, as I'd already done the Hoher Riffler then walked part of the Berliner Hohenweg this morning, and then walked up to the Edel Hut (see previous entry). There was a logic to it, however, in that the weather was perfect and I did need plenty of time to get down in the morning. It's also an easy peak, although not quite as close to the hut as it looks. Shallow zigzags led up to a contouring path at an upper cwm. I managed to run a reasonable amount of this before slowing as I gained the main west ridge line (the Popbergschneide). I was now beginning to tire, bonking slightly, and had no water or food having left all my gear at the hut. So it was a bit of a struggle after a tough day, although I was inspired by the superb clarity of light and magnificent views south over the rest of the Zillertal. This morning's peak, the Hoher Riffler, looked big and distant, and the Grosser Loffler also impressed. The ridge is rather broken and shattered, with some scrambling, and I got to the top in just under an hour from the hut. There are two small summits, the one with the cross being clearly lower than the one requiring a brief scramble. I didn't spend long drinking in the stunning views, as I was in need of food. Ran down in 25 minutes or so, and refuelled with pleasure at the hut - which was as excellent and 'gemutlichkeit' as the rest had been.

Hoher Riffler

Peaks: Hoher Riffler (3231m/10600ft)
Routes: Sudwestgrat (uI)
Area: Zillertal Alps, Tyrol, Austria

A cold morning, with the weather clearly still unsettled as I left the hut at 7am. The Hoher Riffler is the most obvious objective from the Friesenberg Hut, and was the only 3000m peak without a cap of cloud as I jogged up to the vague col below the Peterskopl. I was pleased to feel relatively fresh, and was able to run for short sections. I missed the main route almost immediately as a result, and took the south ridge direct with good scrambling. The south ridge begins to narrow at a small col, with a snowfield, leading to good scrambling over boulders until the ridge narrows further and swings to the northeast. This gives a fine finish, far more enjoyable than the dull slog I'd half expected. The ridge is well defined, and drops steeply to the Schwarzbrunner glacier ('kees' locally) to the west. A snowy saddle leads up to the summit in around an hour: an ideal solo peak, impressive yet non-technical. Views a little limited due to low cloud over the highest peaks, but it began to clear as I descended. I had breakfast high on the ridge, but out of the cold wind, and enjoyed a wonderful break with tremendous views over the nearby Gefrorne Wand, Fusstein and Olperer, as well as the other high peaks to the east. An easy descent led back to the hut, after which I decided to extend the day by heading over to the Olperer hut for lunch (I didn't have enough carbs last night, despite Bergsteigeressen and a large wedge of Strudel, and was starting to suffer for it). Steep zigzags led above the lake to superb views back over the Hoher Riffler, which is quite impressive and pyramidal from this angle. There followed a magnificent high level promenade, heading south on the Berliner Hohenweg, virtually level along the 2500m contour with continually improving views as the sun broke through and the high peaks began to clear. By the time I arrived at the Olperer hut just before midday, all the peaks were clear. I enjoyed a memorable break on the terrace, with noodle soup and wurst, gazing out at the glaciated Hochfeiler and Grosser Moseler. A steep descent along the banks of the Riepenbach stream led back to the lake and car after a superb morning. I then drove to Mayrhofen and got straight onto the Ahornbahn cable car, keen to see a different part of the Zillertal in the time I had left. I certainly felt I was maximising my time as I headed up from the top cable station across to the Edel Hut. I felt a little tired on this walk in, not surprisingly, but it was still good with fine views up to the Ahornspitze and down to Mayrhofen. After booking in and enjoying a beer on the terrace, the weather became superbly clear - so much so that I started to get tempted to nip up the Ahornspitze rather than wait for the morning as planned. But that seems to warrant a separate entry!

Friday, July 08, 2011

Ellmauer Halt

Peaks: Ellmauer Halt (2344m/7690ft)
Routes: Kopftorl (vB), Gamsangersteig (vB/C)
Area: Kaisergebirge, Tyrol, Austria

A storm blew up in the night, high winds and heavy rain rattling the windows of the hut. I slept well, though, which was just as well as a long day lay ahead. The mist, which had engulfed the hut a few hours earlier, was fortunately starting to rise as I left the Stripsenjoch on the small path that leads down the Kaistertal to the west. The weather remained a slight concern, however, as it was clearly unstable and I had no option but to cross one of the high cols to the south to regain my car! The plan was to head up the steep valley of the Hoher Winkler to what I presumed was a small col: the Koftorl, and then - if the weather permitted - nip up the range's highest peak Ellmauer Halt. A side path allowed me to cut the corner across the Neustadler Graben through pinewoods, and soon led to a Ferrata section with chains and a long ladder negotiating a line of crags. I soon emerged in the main valley, a great wild place with large herds of chamois. Not as dramatic as the Steinerne Rinne to the east, perhaps, but a lot wilder feeling. Not many people come this way, I would guess, and I was completely alone in a big landscape. Again, towering limestone crags on both sides. The route is pretty direct and gets steeper and narrower until reaching a smaller scree couloir towards the top. The shifting scree was unpleasant and draining, with loose rock above, but it led to chains and easier upward movement as the couloir narrowed further below the top. This climb reminded me very strongly of the Baranie Sedlo in the Tatra. As I emerged at the small col of the Kopftorl (2058m, so at least 800m of ascent to this point), mist swirled up from the northern side of the range, enveloping the spires of the Kopftorlgrat (a tempting easy climb, a shame I had no partner!). This lent tremendous atmosphere to the subsequent descent, which traverses left over lots of space to gain a tight chimney cleft between a pinnacle and the main rockface. I descended this to another traverse, with chains, to gain another tiny col overlooking yesterday's route up to Ellmauer Tor. Steep but excellent secured scrambling down a series of gullies leads to another col below the subsidiary summit of Kopfl, and a final descent gains a very feint contouring path which I surmised led to the normal route (the Gamsangersteig) up Ellmauer Halt. It did, and I had a small breakfast to celebrate. It was somewhat annoying to have lost so much height after the Kopftorl, but the route down had been so enjoyable that it didn't matter. And there was more excellence to come. I hardly noticed the increasingly heavy drizzle as I began the route, a wonderful narrow path which traverses leftwards to gain easy scrambling and, on turning the corner to head north, an extraordinary Ferrata section with metal rungs drilled into the rock enabling an easy 'staircase' ascent for 300m or so to gain a wide couloir and excellent scrambling. I chose to avoid the unnecessary chains and enjoy the rock here. A series of easy juggy grooves led up to an obvious crux with a choice of routes. I opted for the route through a huge cave/cleft to gain a long ladder out of the cave. Easier ground led up to the Babenstuber Hut, a tiny wooden shelter nestled under the summit ridge. Mist swirled around, lending a tremendous atmosphere to the final climb up a series of grooves and slabs to the small summit. No distant views, but the immediate ridges to Gamshalt, Treffauer and Tuxeck were rendered more impressive by the shifting mists. I took the variant route on the descent, avoiding the cave in favour of an exposed Ferrata section leading across slabs to a steep protected groove and crack. An easy but long descent back to the path junction, after which I romped down to the Gruttenhutte in dramatically improving conditions. By the time I'd reached the direct path through the woods back to Wochenbrunner the clouds had cleared and warm sunshine lit the walls of Ellmauer Halt. After a wash in the Hausgraben river, I embarked on the long drive to Mayrhofen in the Zillertal, then took the toll road all the way up to the Schlegeisspeicher reservoir. This was a long drive, but I was still able to start the walk-in to the Friesenberghaus at 3.30pm. I was beginning to tire slightly, but perked up quite quickly and really enjoyed the walk and the opportunity to gradually get my bearings in the Zillertal: an entirely different landscape to the Kaiserberge, open and Alpine, a wonderful contrast. I still had a 700m climb to negotiate, though, and I got a real drenching as I emerged from the contouring path to gain the open valley of the Lapenkar with the hut, and tomorrow's objective the Hoher Riffler, looming above. The rain eased off briefly, then started again in earnest as I reached the hut. The Friesenberghaus is a superb place - old, stone-built and very atmospheric, the highest hut in the Zillertal at 2500m. It had been a long day, and it was great to be able to refuel and rest.

Thursday, July 07, 2011

Kaisergebirge traverse

Peaks: Hintere Goinger Halt (2192m/7192ft), Vordere Goinger Halt (2242m/7356ft), Stripsenkopf (1807m/5928ft)
Routes: Jubilaumssteig (vB), Angermannweg(uI-), Gratubergang (uII), Eggersteig (vB), Ubungsklettersteig (vC/D)
Area: Kaisergebirge, Tyrol, Austria

A 'mixed' weather forecast provoked me into downscaling my plans for this, the first day of a brief foray into the Austrian Tyrol. A late flight and night in the Munich suburbs meant this was just as well, as it was after 9.30 when I finally got to Wochunbrunner Alm at the southern end of the Kaisergebirge - a compact yet spectacular range of peaks and an obvious first destination from Munich. This traverse was essentially the opposite of what I'd planned, centred on the enormous gateway of Ellmauer Tor. This is such an enormous col, the focal point of the range, that it transcends the term and warrants a different descriptor (hence 'gateway'). The weather, contrary to the forecast, was superb as I set off at a fast pace from the Alm, although very hot and humid. The character of this wonderful range asserts itself immediately as I climbed through dwarf pines on the Ellmauer Weg to emerge on scree slopes to join the Jubilaumssteig traverse path to the Tor. Huge spires of limestone tower on both sides, meaning (rather obviously) that I started to dehydrate through lack of running water. I emerged at the Tor to fantastic views down to the Stripsenjoch through the Steinerne Rinne, which looks utterly unfeasible as a route of descent. But before continuing the traverse and beginning the descent into the void I nipped up the obvious peak of the Hintere Goinger Halt, which is a short scramble away to the northeast from the Tor. A rising traverse leads to a groove with chains before some mild scrambling accesses the small summit. Fabulous views all around and a great way to get my bearings. Across the gulf of the Ellmaeur Tor rises the Karlspitze and beyond that the highpoint of the range: Ellmaeur Halt, which I'd planned for tomorrow. To the east, the Ackerlspitze crowned a long ridge of dazzling white spires. Enjoyable though the Hintere Goinger was, it was obvious that this peak was just a tourist peak and was actually topped by the far more impressive sister peak of the Vordere Goinger Halt which rose above the windgap of the Predigtstuhl Scharte. So I returned to the gap for an attempt at this, spying a tiny path, with a few cairns. This gave an excellent, intricate scramble (research suggests it's called the Gratubergang) up steep grooves and chimneys and traversing across a series of loose couloirs to gain the steep summit slopes and slabby scrambling to the top. The summit book suggested that it is infrequently climbed - it was last signed in June (compared to the dozens that must go up Hintere every day). Superb atmosphere, with the entire range (seemingly) to myself and rock walls and pinnacles rising from the beautiful green meadows of the Tyrol: a memorable summit. I scampered back down to the Tor and began the famous descent of the Eggersteig on the far (northern) side of the Tor. This gets steeper and steeper as you enter the deep cauldron of the Steinerne Rinne, until it drops sharply away between the towering rock walls of the Fleischbank on the western side and Predigstuhl on the east. Chains protect the intricate scrambling, although they weren't really necessary (but I had Ferrata gear just in case). The line takes a series of shelfs and ledges, twisting right and left down the huge couloir until it reaches an exposed traverse cut into the rocks to the west. This leads, superbly atmospherically, to the Wildanger meadows and a final climb to the Stripsenjoch and its eponymous hut: a great spot. I was badly dehydrated so a lunch of cold Zillertal beer and splendid goulash was hugely appreciated. After booking in, I noticed that a Klettersteig (Via Ferrata) made its way up the crags lining the route up to the small peak of the Stripsenkopf which rises above the hut to the north. A perfect way to while away the afternoon (the Ubungklettersteig). The first section climbs the Hundskopf, a little pinnacled crag above the hut, via a groove and steep wall. After a walk, the second section traverses left before a steep arete finish, while the final section is also steep and finishes below the summit shelter. Having once had a two-week Via Ferrata holiday in the Dolomites in 1996, I've never done another one, finding the metalwork and whole experience a bit weird and unsatisfactory compared to proper climbing - but they are good fun in some circumstances (still weird though, especially this one!). I rested on the summit of the Stripsenkopf, relishing the scenic contrast between the 1000m rock walls of the Wilder Kaiser to the south and the verdant green meadows of the Tamer Kaiser to the north. Some cloud as I sauntered down to the hut, but this soon dissolved to leave a perfect sunny evening. Just glorious on the hut terrace, eating my bergsteigeressen, drinking wheat beer, and looking out over the vast sunlit crags of the Fleischbank and Totenkirchl.

Saturday, July 02, 2011

Langdale scramble

Peaks: Pavey Ark, Harrison Stickle
Area: Langdale, Lake District

A bit of a disaster in the Saunders Mountain Marathon this year, but you can't win them all. After a good night's sleep in Baysbrown campsite, a beautiful morning boded well for the Klets - a great opportunity given the tough nature of the course (the elite solo class). However, I realised there was a problem as soon as I set off. I felt tired and heavy legged almost immediately and was exhausted, with an upset stomach, by the time I reached the plateau and first checkpoint. By the time I'd jogged the 2k to the next checkpoint, I was almost relieved to struggle to find it. I was clearly under the weather, and later found that M had been evacuated from cub camp with a stomach bug at the same time. I decided to abandon early, as anything else would have prolonged the inevitable and at least this way I could get home early. The weather was so perfect, however, that I had to extend the day slightly. So I walked down to a perfectly still Stickle Tarn (there's a photo of me swimming in this in 1989) and slogged up the scree to Jack's Rake. This is one of the most obvious scrambling lines in the UK, but I couldn't remember doing it before. It was better than I'd expected - a narrow gangway with the odd steeper section, all quite enjoyable. I wandered up to the top of Pavey Ark, then over to Harrison Stickle. Great views, but this gentle ramble confirmed the wisdom of my decision to abandon - as did the descent to Dungeon Ghyll and 'jog' back to the HQ at Chapel Stile. Felt exhausted throughout. Just terrible timing and a real disappointment, as I felt I was well prepared for the Klets and was looking forward to it.