Saturday, June 29, 2013

Ras Foel Fras

Race: Foel Fras fell race (20k/920m)
Time/Position: 1.55.48 (6th from 60)
In contrast to last year, when I found myself leading over Moel Wnion in driving sleet, as well as 2009 (when an incoming storm decimated the field on the summit of Garnedd Uchaf) conditions today were calm and serene. Although I was at least four minutes down, however, I still really enjoyed the race which remains one of my favourites: maybe my fifth time at the event? The climb from Aber must be one of the longest anywhere - basically five miles and an hour of constant uphill effort. After the steep early tarmac, some gaps started to appear as we all got into our respective rhythms. Jez was well ahead at this point but, unusually for a race of this length, myself and a guy from Glossopdale found ourselves neatly matched for pace on the long gradual climb up Drum. We took it in turns to take over the lead, pushing ourselves gradually towards the summit. He was stronger towards the top of Drum, although I managed to drag myself back on the boggy crawl up Foel Fras where I regained a bit of strength. We tried in vain to get up to the runner in third place before scampering through the awkward boulder fields on top of Foel Fras to fast running over the good path to Garnedd Uchaf. No bearing necessary this year, but I still managed to plunge too far north, skirting Bera Mawr in a reasonably direct contouring line but unfortunately bringing us both out on the steep scree below the summit. We both went flying on the tussocks shortly before this, and I continued slightly winded. I took a better line across to Moel Wnion, and on the early part of the descent - but the Glossopdale runner and another fast finisher were too strong for me on the descent and I finished at the back of our small group. My knee wasn't the problem, just a basic lack of speed at present. That said, I always thoroughly enjoy the final descent on this race - with the sea glistening below and great views over the wooded valley to Llwytmor.

Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Pant Ifan climbing

Crag: Craig Bwlch y Moch/Craig Pant Ifan, Tremadog
Routes: Striptease (VS 5a:sec), Great Western/The Quakerman (VS+ 4b,5a,4a,4b:led p.1,3), Scratch (VS 4b,4c:led p.1)
Woke up to steady drizzle in Porthmadog: very annoying. So we put our Pant Ifan plans on hold and went off to do the classic wet weather option of Striptease, which takes a gently overhanging deep chimney/corner and therefore stays dry. I've done this at least three times now, and always find it strenuous for the grade, so Vic led. As always, it provided a good workout: with three tricky sections to fight past the overlaps. The second is the hardest, giving awkward moves with little for the feet. We then headed back to the cafe for a drink and respite from the midges, waiting for the weather to clear. It did, so we headed up the screes to Pant Ifan, where I wanted to do Great Western: one of the few VS gaps for me left at Tremadog. I led a rather damp first pitch (drying rapidly) up dirty rock from the trees to a groove before heading up the little arete to the right. One tricky move up this, involving a pinched hold, regains the groove and tree belay. Vic then led through up a variant direct second pitch: the 5a twin cracks taken by The Quakerman, a nearby eliminate at E2. This was a tad vegetated, but excellent: technical rather than strenuous, and very enjoyable on finger locks and toe jams. Easier ground then leads to the crux of Great Western: a deceptively awkward slanting chimney/crack, which continually pushes you off balance towards a tricky slab on the left. I then led the vegetated third, now in warm sunshine, which goes up cracks directly above the belay to a stance in a niche further left (Borchgrevink?). The last pitch follows broken and vegetated ground up to a very steep and quite sustained final groove: felt harder than 4b, so possibly not the final pitch of Great Western. We abbed down Barbarian and started immediately up Scratch in warm, almost hot, sunshine. I led the delightful first pitch (for the second time) which traverses gently across the face up slabby rock and small positive holds: lovely stuff. I followed Vic up the final pitch, with merciful shade for the initial crack, which is easier than it looks. The traverse across to the final crack is an atmospheric finale, great position, and leads to good jams.

Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Bwlch y Moch climbing

Crag: Craig Bwlch y Moch, Tremadog
Routes: Smarter than the Average Bear (VS 4c:sec), Yogi p.2 (VS 4b), Shere Khan (S:led), Mr Ranger (VS 4c:sec), Valerie's Rib Direct (HS 4a,4a:led p.1)
Broke the late afternoon journey to Tremadog with a truly delightful run from Aber, from the coast to the Falls, then along the foot of Moel Wnion to pick up the Foel Fras race descent. Blue sky above, deep blue sea below. Startled a party of German schoolchildren on this very obscure path! Later on, I met Vic at Eric's cafe for an evening of climbing, and we did a few short, easy routes on the right of the main crag: just concentrating on mileage, using hybrids of various different routes to good effect. I followed Vic up the variant left of the Yogi arete (which I last did 20 years ago) to begin. This gives some nice delicate moves and we continued up the variant finish to Yogi, up the rough, crystalline crack which splits the final slab. Abbed off, and I led the very easy Shere Khan: this supposedly had a nice finish up the headwall, but I could only find a vegetated groove. It looked awful, so I continued further right and belayed just below the Yogi arete so Vic could lead the pleasant finishing groove of Smarter at 4c. Mr Ranger is a cleaned and surprisingly good pitch which takes the obvious corner to a short slab, then a steep but juggy crack which joins Yogi higher up. We were moving quickly and efficiently, so we nipped round to the old classic Valerie's Rib for a finale. This is perhaps the closest climb to the cafe, and I opted for the direct start, which is a useful way of extending the route. A slabby corner, huge holds, leads to big blocks and easy climbing to the normal start. The moves across to the arete were as delightful as I remembered them from 20 years ago: perfectly placed holds allow for a delicate traverse across two grooves and give access to a ledge on the crest of the rib. I then followed the right wall of the groove taken by the Direct variant for a bit, but moved right quite quickly to take in the lovely climbing on the normal route. A good evening's work, so we retired to the Ship for pie and pint.

Sunday, June 23, 2013

Moel y Gamelin fell race

Race: Moel y Gamelin (10m/2400ft)
Time/Position: 1.20.24 (10th from 105)
Heavy rain swept across the top of the Horseshoe Pass as we started up the short, sharp climb to Moel y Faen: and a cold headwind slowed progress along the ridge. But after Wednesday's awful performance, I was relieved to feel far stronger today and kept a reasonable plodding pace going across the tops of Gamelin, Moel y Gaer and the steep final climb up Moel Morfydd, the last peak on the ridge. It was all quite enjoyable in the conditions, much better than the hot weather of previous years (although I think I've only done this race twice before). It's not a typical fell race, because after the crossing at Bwlch y Groes it turns into a cross-country loop, out into the wilds to the west, before heading back for a tough final climb to regain the ridge and summit of Moel y Gamelin for the second time. I benefited a little from what remains of my winter speed work in this section (plus a useful tailwind), and started to pick up places, feeling good after holding back, and gained a couple more on the climb: the exact reverse of Wednesday. A very strong field again: a counter in three different championships.

Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Hotfoot up Famau fell race

Race: Hotfoot up Famau
Time/Position: 40.32 (13th from 104)
I've been due a really bad race for a while, struggling in training for a month, so there was something inevitable about this. Well over two minutes down on last year's time, and not far off my slowest ever time for this race (which is normally one of my favourites). I didn't feel too bad initially, but the unique nature of this course means you have to start fast and hold your place on the long plummet down the valley. Started to struggle towards the top of Moel y Gaer and felt awful on the little ridge that leads to the steep descent on peat to Nant y Ne. I completely blew here, and had to walk even the gentlest gradient, losing buckets of time and lots of positions. The gully was hot and humid, which made my suffering even worse, and I was glad to get to the descent down from Famau. Not sure what the problem was: long high-pressure day at conference, or hayfever? Looks like I might be helping to organise this race next year, so it's a bit of a shame I couldn't bow out with a better performance!

Monday, June 17, 2013

Moel Siabod run

Peaks: Moel Siabod
Area: Moelwynion, Eryri
After a few short climbs, we headed across the bridge near Plas y Brenin and started the long gradual climb through the woods to the open hill beyond. This gives very pleasant running, never too steep, although a few sharp rises on the open hill slowed progress a bit. We got to the summit in just under 40 minutes, to find the cloud base trying to lift from the summits of the Snowdon group and Carneddau. Nice panoramic views for John, which is what I'd intended. Jogged down to the car in Mymbyr in 20 minutes or so: a lovely descent, particularly after the summit scree slopes.

Dyffryn Mymbyr Climbing

Crag: Clogwyn Wen/Blocks, Dyffryn Mymbyr
Routes: Holly Tree Buttress (VD:led), Slab and Crack (VD:led), Chatterbox (S:led)
I had promised John B a better experience of Eryri after his unfortunate hypothermia incident at Easter led to an even worse infection which stopped him running for months. He asked to be taken climbing for the first time ever, so we set off for the small crags near Plas y Brenin by way of an introduction before our planned mountain run. I've never done these routes before, as the crags are just short Peak-style outcrops really, but Holly Tree Buttress made a near perfect beginner's climb: very simple yet nicely varied. It was a bit damp, as low cloud was producing light drizzle, but a steep crack led to a pinnacle, then a little traverse to a crack. Pleasant easy climbing up this led to a juggy final face. John struggled a bit, and left a bit of gear behind, but seemed to enjoy it so we did a couple of short routes on the Blocks before heading off on our run. Chatterbox was a thrutchy route up a wide off-width crack, hardly ideal, and rather tough for the grade - although extremely short. We then jogged back to the car and started our run up Siabod.

Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Bryn Alyn Orienteering

Race: Bryn Alyn Orienteering (Light Green, 3k+)
Time/Position: 39.41 (2nd from 9)
A second attempt at short-course orienteering, after my initial humiliating baptism at Erddig. I thought the open hill nature of this course, along with the fact that I know the area well (indeed I was racing across exactly the same ground last night!) might help me, but again I found it hard to adapt to the large scale and sheer level of detail on the map. It started off OK, with the first few checkpoints fairly easy to locate on the open hill east of Bryn Alyn, then a tricky one in a copse was followed by a long uphill leg which I managed quite easily. I was going well at this point, then became over-confident for the next long leg, which seemed straightforward but took a while to find (hidden under a crag). The next two proved tough, as I misjudged the scale of the map and went too far away for CP 7, then did the same for the 8th CP hidden below a crag. I concentrated for the final four on a long run-in, and finally adapted to the scale for a reasonably quick and efficient finale.

Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Up the Beast fell race

Race: Up the Beast (4.5m/1500ft)
Time/Position: 37:33 (8th from 90)
The local races all seem to be getting far tougher: there was a time when I was first Veteran at this race, but I can't see those days coming back again! As with last week, this event was dominated by the over 40s and I finished well down the field although my time was virtually identical to last year. I've done every one of these races since it was launched, six now I think, and always really enjoy it. This time, I started a little slowly as I have been feeling very tired since returning from Scotland and have done very little running. This tactic worked reasonably well, and I kept it going on the first climb via the 'Beast' to the limestone crags of Bryn Alyn. The little climbing sections are a novelty and, although I lost places on the descent to Big Covert, I regained them on the super-steep and very humid climb back to Bryn Alyn. A good descent of the Beast allowed me to pick up a couple more places through the woods: knee feeling fine now.

Friday, June 07, 2013

Lliwedd climbing

Peak/Crag: Lliwedd East Buttress
Routes: Avalanche (VD: led p.1,3,5), Red Wall (HVD: led p.2), Longland's Continuation (HVD: led p.2)
The classic combination up Lliwedd's long East Buttress, and a glaring gap in my climbing CV for 25 years. It is essentially a 9 or 10 pitch (almost 300m) continuous slice of mountaineering: very few technical moves, but a great deal of route-finding, awkward rock and nice situations. A week of warm dry sunshine made the big, high cliffs almost compulsory: the ideal Lliwedd conditions. I drove down to Mymbyr to avoid the ludicrous fees of PyP, which was probably full anyway, and ran from the valley up past Pen y Gwryd to rejoin Vic and the sacs at the Pass: a nice loosener after last evening's race. The walk-in was a delight, warm breezes and fantastic clarity of light: Lliwedd's buttresses lit to perfection by the morning sun. It did take us the allotted hour, mind, so I pushed on up the first pitch - which is a pleasant groove allowing us to get reacquainted with Lliwedd's characteristic pinch and sloping holds. This took us into the shadows at the end of the Heather Shelf, and Vic then merged the enjoyable long rising traverse to easy slabs. This gave me the Quartz Wall, which gives a few brief awkward moves over blocky quartz to move right into a short groove. I belayed on the rib. Then came the first route-finding challenge: I had only bought a vague and inadequate topo by way of 'Alpine Training', as Lliwedd is notorious for its complexity and tricky navigation. As a result, Vic continued up the vegetated and loose groove - not very pleasant - up to a steeper wall. I followed through, easy scrambling, up to the Great Terrace and the end of Avalanche. The first pitch of Red Wall gives good climbing, up a groove to a steepening, then nice moves on good solid rock to gain a rib on the right. Great atmosphere above the terrace and shallow gully: the complexity and scale of the cliff very apparent at this point. The topo was virtually useless up here, so I continued (wrongly I suspect) up an obvious slab which gave slightly precarious climbing up dirty cracks and suspect flakes, vegetated in places, and meant I had to go above the Green Gallery to get a decent belay. A nice section of rock lies above, and Longland's Continuation is far more solid and very atmospheric high up on the crag: Vic led up a slab to a good clean rib and a series of easy cracks. This gave me the delightful final 40ft slab, the technical crux of the entire route at 4b, but very short-lived. It has the virtue of finishing on the sunny summit, and was a great way to finish. A long but beautifully sunny descent, and I ran from PyP back to the car in Mymbyr.

Thursday, June 06, 2013

Deeside Off-Road Race

Race: Deestriders Off-Road Grand Prix Race 1 (4.6m)
Time/Position: 28.06 (5th from 75)
Lots of diary clashes preventing me from racing at present, so I seized the opportunity to give this four-race summer series a proper bash for the first time (having never managed more than one appearance in previous years). A nice warm evening, very dry underfoot, and a valuable work-out. I felt quite uncomfortable throughout, probably because I haven't raced or done any speedwork for over a month. Went off a little fast, and found myself battling it out for fifth place after a mile or two. My knee felt OK, but even though this course is flat - based on two big laps of playing fields and woodland - I lost ground as soon as the race left the tarmac. By the time I got to the return leg along a dyke by the side of the Dee, I was starting to blow a bit. But, given my lack of training and racing, I was quite pleased to finish 5th - although all the top five were over 40.

Tuesday, June 04, 2013

Buckstones bouldering

I'd never heard of the Buckstones, but discovered them after scouting around for venues that I could visit on my regular trips to Huddersfield (Dovestones and the crags I'd visited previously being rather unsuitable). It turned out to be a very pleasant little bouldering venue: a sort of miniature Yorkshire version of Fontainebleau. I had very little time, so started off 'below the road' on a series of small boulders with nice views out over March Heigh reservoir and over classic Pennine moorland to Marsden and Black Hill. I worked my way through the easy problems of Sector F - nothing harder than Font 5, so good for weaklings. These included 29, 30, 40 (up a vague flake), 43, 44, 45, 46, 48, 54 (Keeping Toads: a nice font 4 up a longer grit wall), 66 (pleasant arete and scoop), 67 (good holds up a clean wall), 68 (font 5: more technical steep wall via a pocket), 69 (good easy climbing up arete), 72, 73, 74, 75, 76. Beautiful warm sunshine all day.

Saturday, June 01, 2013

Ben Vrackie

Peaks: Ben Vrackie (841m)
Area: South-East Highlands
This was a perfect way to briefly break the journey home from Torridon: an opportunity to stretch the driving legs. The weather was nice, high cloud base, as we drove past the Cairngorms so I initially made plans to run up the dull hills east of Drumochter. However, this would have been a tedious repeat of last Saturday for the family (and me). Instead, as Ben Vrackie rises directly above the nice town of Pitlochry, which we have enjoyed visiting in the past, it seemed perfect. I took it flat out from the car park in Moulin: unsurprisingly, it was clearly very popular with a perfectly constructed path the whole way up. Very runnable as a result, through nice woodland to gentle inclines rising up the open hillside to Loch a'Choire. From here, the path rises steeply up hundreds of well constructed steps to the well positioned summit: a neatly defined peak. Car to summit in 39 minutes. Lots of people around, very much Pitlochry's 'signature peak': it made a novel change from the wilder peaks of last week and was a nice final taste of the Highlands. The sun came out while I was on top: Beinn a'Ghlo the most notable group, sun dappled, with the Cairngorms beyond. To the west, Ben Lawers, Schiehallion and the like. I pelted back down to meet the family eating lunch in Moulin and we recommenced our journey back to Wales.