Siabod flit

Peaks: Moel Siabod

Area: Moelwynion, Eryri

Snowdonia is unpleasantly packed at the moment, so this was just a short morning blast from Plas y Brenin. I ran 56.01 in the fell race a few years ago, and the sub-hour always strikes me as an obvious up-and-down target for a mini session. The route from PyB is a little easier than the race route from the cafe, but not much as the 700m climb is similar, and I was up in 40 minutes from the road. I then had a reasonable descent in 18 minutes for 58 minutes up-and-down.

Helena Tipping 10k

Race: Helena Tipping 10k

Time/Position: 36.45 (70th from 900 [4th V50])

More or less the same time as the other two 10k's I've done this year. Not too surprising, really, as it isn't as if I've done any specific training - indeed, three weeks in the Highlands, two very long fell races and four days on Offa's Dyke can't be said to be good preparation for a fast, flat 10k! But I've always done this kind of thing, deliberately maximising the variety, and at least retain a bare minimum of road speed. It was also a very flat and fast new course (albeit hot again, although not as bad as last week) which helped maintain the minimum standard of 3.40/km pace. I first did this race in 2007, and ran exactly the same time as today aged 38 in 2008 although finished in the top 20 that year. It is a little more competitive these days.

Offa's Dyke, day 4 (Kington-Knighton)

Another standard stage and another easy day through more beautiful borders scenery. A sharp climb out of Kington past the golf course finally regains the dyke itself (last seen on day one above the Wye Valley). Then came another candidate for my favourite section of all, the subtle beauty of the scenery around Herrock Hill. A carved chair had views back to Hergest Ridge and the empty valley above Dolyhir. The soft morning light, light blue sky and the light green of the landscape was just exquisite. The climb up Herrock Hill was so tempting that I surged straight up, losing the path to be faced with a hellish descent through head-deep ferns to regain OD just before it crosses back into Powys. Beautiful wild flowers festoon the dyke in these parts, and the route sticks religiously to it for several miles. The River Lugg was another beautiful pastoral highlight before Dolley Green, before riverside meadows lead to a steep climb over Gilfach and Hawthorn hills. This was all superb, with glorious views towards the Radnor Forest and the even quieter valleys further north. The route stays 'upland' in feel as it traverses above Pilleth (with its historical resonance) and Rhyd y Meirch before dropping steeply down to Knighton. After toasted sandwiches then a full body wash in the extraordinarily hard-to-access River Teme (gaining multiple cuts and bruises for my pains), a pint in the ancient Horse and Jockey was a delightful way to mark the end of this 'half OD'. Knighton was the logical place to finish, partly because it marked and linked the point I got to on the daytrips from the north I'd done with dad many years ago (Newcastle on Clun, to be precise). Also, it is the 'capital' of Offa's Dyke (illustrated by its Welsh name, Tref y Clawdd), as well as its half way point, and - finally - it has a train station (£8 to get back to Wrexham that evening). Quite apart from the obvious personal resonance of the OD route, it also celebrates its 50th birthday this year.

Offa's Dyke, day 3 (Hay on Wye-Kington)

A more leisurely start from Hay today, gently plodding alongside the Wye until the path cuts upwards into woodland and the very quiet country lanes around Clyro that represent 'Kilvert country'. Cool woodland gave way to an ancient bridleway and big views northwest towards Radnor and Llandod. At Newchurch, a delightful tradition - tea and squash provided in the open church for a small donation. All classic borders scenery again, ultra-tranquil with barely a sound. Another very hot day, well into the 30s again (weather warnings had been issued for the heat in SE Wales), so the steep climb out of Newchurch was sweaty, leading to nice hill scenery which gave a little sampler of what was to come on the Hergest Ridge. Wheat fields and then a twisting descent through woodland led down to the hidden hamlet of Gladestry. And, at last, my luck was in: the Royal Oak was open, bang on midday, and some home cooked ham sandwiches and a pint of Hobson's Twisted Spire in the beautiful beer garden was close to perfection. After that came one of the finest sections of OD, over Hergest Ridge: in contrast to yesterday's highpoint, this was immortalised not by an author but by a musician, Mike Oldfield. The ridge is lower than Hatterall, but similar in tone - little copses, a mystical ambience, and pastoral views north over more classic borders scenery towards Old Radnor. The ridge veers eastwards into England and drops gradually into Kington. This was a much shorter day that yesterday, only four hours and a standard OD stage (rather than two merged together). As a result, it was desperately hot on this section, completely airless. Another delightful campsite at Fleece Meadow right next to the little River Arrow. After pie and chips in town, I saw a kingfisher from the tent and a kind caravaner lent me his chair for the night.

Offa's Dyke, day 2 (Hendre Farm-Hay on Wye)

Hendre Farm was a delightful place to stay but I had a slight issue with refuelling. A couple of salads picked up from Monmouth and a packet of fruit bars were all I had, and these had to get me through to Pandy - an entire stage - where I hoped I could eat and then do the long stage over the Hatterall Ridge to Hay in the same day. The plan worked to an extent but I knew it would be a long day so set off just before 6am into a truly magical dawn. Heavy dew made my sac heavier but the first few miles as the sun rose were the most memorable of the trip. The low sun lit the dew soaked wheat and grass of the tranquil meadows which lead to the site of the medieval grace dieu monastery. As the sun rose into a cloudless sky, the views got better - delightful riverine meadows along the Trothy. Llanfihangel Ystum Llewern was a lovely hamlet and the day continued through orchards and quiet lanes to Llantillio Crossing. No shops of course but I did at least have water. I had a short break at White Castle where the scenery begins to change as the Black Mountains come into view. I got lost briefly in a confusing wooded section before climbing up towards Llangattock where there is a pub (but I was too early). Finally, I descended past the Skirrid to Pandy, still well before midday. Then, a major problem. There was no shop at all, and I was pretty desperate by this point. I recognised the Lancaster Arms as a walker's B&B so called there to ask, and the owner very kindly made me a sandwich with some fruit for £3. A vital stroke of luck - I ate it whilst drying my tent by the River Honddu. Replenished and rehydrated, I embarked on the hot and airless climb past Oldcastle up to the ridge itself. I was only vaguely aware of this having deliberately not done much research into the route. This was intended to liberate me from my usual approach - in Scotland or the Alps for example I research everything, as so much can go wrong. With OD being so tame, I wanted to let it unfold in front of me. So I was rather taken aback by the length of the Hatterall Ridge, which goes on for 10 miles. That said, it was very familiar terrain and the path gently undulates over the top of it, without any savage climbs. Also, on a very hot day, a crucial breeze cooled me down. The path maps the actual border, with Herefordshire's Olchon valley on the right (Longtown and points east) and the Vale of Ewyas to the left. Beyond, I could trace the route of the Black Mountains fell race which I did in 2014, losing the Welsh Champs by making a mistake right at the end. The ridge was a delight, despite its length, and I could look down on Llanthony Priory and Capel y Ffin, classic border territory immortalised by Bruce Chatwin. From Hay Bluff, a gradual descent off the ridge takes a very long time. I was tiring now, and in need of food and drink, but the path to Hay weaves through woods and fields before finally getting into to town where I cleared the shelves in Spar. More than 48k, with 1220m of climbing, which is quite a lot with a full sac. I camped across the Wye at Raquetty Farm and then had the problem of finding a meal during the 'pingdemic'.

Offas Dyke, day 1 (Chepstow-Hendre Farm)

Another attempt to make the most of enforced staycationing, putting a plan into action that has been on the back burner for many years. In the early noughties, I did a series of OD day trips with dad, getting all the way down to Clun, near Knighton, from the north. With four days at my disposal, my intention was to be as flexible as possible and try to get as far north as I could from Chepstow (with Knighton, the half way point, the minimum requirement in order to at least link the two halves together). I got the train from Chester to Chepstow, not a particularly easy journey, and spent an absolutely baking night in a tiny airless room in a pub. Next morning, the heat was already building as I walked through Chepstow and across the Wye to join OD and begin the long journey north. The path weaves around woodland above the Wye, with views often obscured by trees, until the famed viewpoint of Wintour's Leap at a large meander. After this, views across to the Severn estuary as the path weaves around in an indirect fashion before finally connecting with the first section of the Dyke itself, through more woodland with intermittent views a long way down to the Wye. Tintern Abbey comes into view and I stopped briefly at the Devils's Pulpit. Then comes a long but gradual climb away from the river to the Hundalls. At this point, the path takes on something of its typical borders character, beautiful, tranquil, magical. It was very hot, and I was glad of my water - but began to need replenishment as I rejoined the Wye briefly before heading into woods for a long climb east of Whitebrook (still close to the river) before another long climb though Highbury woods. Again, the shelter of the woods was a lucky bonus as the heat built towards midday. Thick ferns led down to Redbrook and a very welcome shop. Three cans of pop, a sandwich and some crisps and I felt rejuvenated: a lovely lunch break right next to the Wye (Redbrook has an interesting industrial history). I then took the Wye path, right next to a beautiful section of the river, all the way into Monmouth rather than the scrappy OD alternative. In town, I got a bit of food from M&S, just in case I couldn't get anything at the camp. This proved wise. Through the town to cross the famous medieval bridge and more fluid. Chepstow to Monmouth is considered a tough stage, but I had some way to go yet - heading west down Watery Lane through Whitehill and Dingle woods, and beautiful wheat fields, to eventually gain Hendre Farm after 33k/1000m. It was a beautiful tranquil campsite, with superb views across the land to come: a perfect place to spend the first night on the path proper. The heat stayed fairly intense until late evening, however. 

Welsh 1000m peaks

Race: Ras Copaon 1000m Cymru (32k/8000ft)

Peaks: Yr Aryg, Carnedd Llewellyn, Carnedd Dafydd, Glyder Fawr, Carnedd Ugain, Yr Wyddfa

Time/Position: 6.38 (67th from 170)

A staggering 1 hour, 53 minutes slower than the last time I did this race ten years ago, and a similar experience to last week at Wasdale, in that this was all pretty disastrous. There were two differences today, however. First is that I felt OK for the first half to Ogwen (whereas I felt bad from the start last week). Second, however, was that my subsequent implosion was even more devastating. It was always going to be a struggle under cloudless skies, very hot at times, but initially the jog out of Aber and up above the Falls went well. I struggled a bit on the climb to the plateau, but its very steep and pathless of course. Above this, I felt OK for the trot below Bera Mawr and up to Yr Aryg, taking good lines throughout. I crested Llewellyn in 1.40 or so and there was a welcome breeze across to Dafydd. Superb clarity of light, no haze at all, so fantastic views throughout, unusually clear for the time of year. The steep descent down to Bodesi from the ridge went reasonably well too. I took on plenty of fluid at the checkpoint and then trotted along an absolutely rammed Ogwen before turning off for the Gribin. This is always the crux of the race, a steep climb after a very long descent - but today it was absolutely devastating, I blew completely initially before taking a gel and regaining a little strength. It was desperately hot, and everybody was struggling, I just about managed to maintain a steady but very slow pace up to the scrambling section. The trudge over the Glyders and then the long descent to PyP was hard and slow, and for the first time ever on any sort of race I just had to stop and sit and take on fluid and food at PyP. The less said about the trudge up the Pyg track the better, a desperate struggle past thousands of the stilletto heel brigade - Glaslyn resembled Copacabana with dozens of people plunging in to its icy waters. A tiny trickle of water just before the zigzags got me up Carnedd Ugain and across to Yr Wyddfa. But again I was actually stopping completely at various points, which I have never done before in 600 races. This was my 4th time at the race, spread over 13 years. I finished 8th in 2009 and ran 4.45 in 2012, which seems unbelievable to me at present. A dreadful dehydrated descent back to Llanberis completed a rather painful day.

Wasdale Horseshoe

Race: Wasdale Horseshoe fell race (33k/2800m/AL)

Peaks: Illgill Head, Whin Rigg, Seatallan, Pillar, Great Gable, Scafell Pike 

Time/Position: 6.16.25 (92nd from 170)

I felt this to be the hardest fell race of all when I did it in 2016, although the weather was dreadful that year - howling gales, torrential rain, cold constant clag - which obviously made it even tougher. This morning, I found myself feeling tired even on Whin Rigg, so I knew I was in for quite a battering. I haven't felt right since returning from Scotland, and this was a bit of a nightmare as a result - I even contrived to be eight minutes slower than 2016, despite vastly better conditions today. It is a classic circuit, which just gets progressively harder after a fairly gentle opening climb up Illgill Head and Whin Rigg to make a full circuit of Wastwater, then a very steep descent to some respite through Greendale. A drink from Jos Naylor, then comes the long and very hot (today) climb up Seatallan. The humidity was clearly going to be a problem and I found eating difficult today, but the Seatallan climb wasn't too bad. After this, I remember very hard nav in 2016 when I had to find the best route to Pillar in thick clag and driving rain. Today, no such issues, just fatigue. A contouring route leads across to the col below Red Pike, lengthy and tiring. What makes this such a hard race, however, is the fact that it doesn't really start until you get to Pillar, well over half way in terms of distance. This is where the terrain becomes harder. After my brief recovery, I was feeling tired again and really struggling on the descents in particular. From Pillar down to the Black Sail Pass was tough, and then came the day's lowpoint, the contouring path below Kirk Fell. This has another useful beck so at least I could rehydrate and I ate a little, but not enough. The contouring path leads to the very steep climb up Great Gable into thick mist. I remembered the next section as particularly challenging in 2016, with the hard descent off Gable to Styhead Tarn and then the complexity of the terrain over to Esk Hause. In mist, this is much easier as the multiplicity of paths is far less confusing. However, the final section - over Scafell Pike - which I remembered as fairly relaxed last time, was really hard today. This entire section from Pillar is what makes Wasdale so hard - it just gets harder and more awkward throughout. A short-cut up the Pike saw me having to take a bearing to get back on track, losing more ground in the mist, and then my energy levels really crashed for the descent from the Pike. This turned into a bit of a nightmare, as the nav to gain the little path to Lingmell col is not obvious in mist (which was still thick at this point, the cloudbase had dropped considerably). Not pleasant, an embarrassing performance, but the race is such a classic that I felt it worth continuing if only to say I'd done it twice. I've been coming to Wasdale since 1988, so that was also a factor: it is a special place with a lot of memories.

Rum Cuillin Traverse

Peaks: Hallival, Askival, Ainshval, Sgurr nan Gillean

Area: Cuillin, Isle of Rum

This has been on the 'to do' list for many years, and the week's activity was arranged around this fabulous climax. Due to Covid regulations, it was hard to get even a foot passenger place on the ferry but with a bit of planning I managed to get a prime Saturday morning slot, returning that evening. A beautiful crossing at 7.30am, with a full Scottish breakfast, schools of harbour porpoise, huge rafts of manx shearwater, puffins and more. Just one tiny problem: the weather was on the turn and cloud was beginning to gather around the striking highest peak of Askival as the ferry approached Kinloch. I have gazed out at the Rum skyline from multiple spots on the mainland and Skye over many years, picking out the individual mountains with their evocative Norse names, so to finally get here was special. I loved it immediately, and walked to the hideous 'monument to Victorian vanity' that is Kinloch Castle in total silence, before veering off into the hills within minutes on the Coire Dubh path. This is a tad dreary initially, but easy going and fast progress until it hits the obvious broad col, which kinks right and leads via shelves to a bigger col, the Bealach baic-Mheall. It was still well before 9am, with views straight down to the sea on the left and Hallival the first objective towering above. As I climbed, however, weather prospects looked really quite grim: the weather seemed to be on the turn, mist dropping rapidly over Trollaval and Askival and some light rain beginning. The full traverse is mildly committing and so at this point I was beginning to think in terms of a return from Ainshval. It was hugely atmospheric, however, and I enjoyed some great scrambling picking a direct route up Hallival, which is quite impressive from below. The cloudbase was just above, so I could see down to Kinloch and across to Knoydart from the summit, although it was very dark and grey. Ahead, Askival loomed - mist swirling around the pinnacle which dominates the ridge from this angle. Across the cwm, Ainshval looked even more hostile, with the cloudbase still lowering. In the event, a nice scrambly downclimb led to a narrow, level, grassy ridge. Wonderful views of the sea left, and Cuillin right. Underfoot, hundreds of manx shearwater burrows. Then it was up into the mist on the dominant peak. I skirted the pinnacle, then moved right up shelves and short walls to gain the ridge crest. Up this for a bit until a tricky traverse on the right-hand side led to easy ground and the summit. It was misty, but the onward route seemed obvious and the weather definitely wasn't getting any worse - in fact, there were hints of brightness around and I soon dropped out of the cloud on the long descent down the west ridge to the broad green Bealach an Oir. From here, onward prospects looked much better with the cloud lifting, and I began to feel more confident about the full traverse. Physically, I was feeling good too. The views down wild Glen Dibidil to the sea and Eigg were fabulous, and the route up Ainshval was interesting, weaving first right then left with some scrambling higher up to the superbly situated summit. A fine isolated peak, second only to Askival, which looms above Glen Dibidil. The cloudbase was well above the summits by now, and there was no decision to make as the onward route looked superb. Perfect grass led down the ridge towards the unnamed peak via a pronounced col. More good scrambling up to this summit, then a splendid romp along to the final peak, Sgurr nan Gillean, in a superb position right next to the sea. Good views down to Dibidil and Eigg, and across to Knoydart and Skye. The descent was awkward, weaving down to the south to avoid crags, not entirely successfully, the cutting back across boggy ground down to the stupendous Dibidil bothy. Not only does this have an incredible location at the bottom of the cwm, right next to the sea but with Sgurr nan Gillean towering behind, but it is also wonderful inside, full of character. I had a little rest within, and rehydrated from the stream. The route then turns into a long coastal walk, really wild and remote, curving past the intriguingly named Welshman's Rock (supposedly because quarrymen helped build the Dibidil path). It was lengthy, tracing the base of Askival and Hallival and eventually cutting inland via moorland-type climbs back to Kinloch. Undoubtedly one of the best mountain days in the British Isles - around 22k, 1800m, just over four hours at a fastish clip.

Sgurr Ghiubhsachain ride and scramble

Peaks: Sgurr Ghiubhsachain

Area: Lochaber, Scotland

A later start than usual, reflecting the fact that I was now in a hotel! I felt a semi-rest day would be wise in advance of my day on Rum tomorrow, and this filled the bill quite nicely. After a good breakfast at the Marine in Mallaig, I drove to Callop on the other side of Glenfinnan. It also seemed wise to choose an outing where my bike would be a help and allow for a restful day - this was perfect, as the mountain is a fair way from the road but seemed to offer 6k or so of gentle riding, so I pootled off along the gravel track which heads towards Loch Shiel. It passed the turning point of the marked trail we had done as a family a month ago, and then headed along the shores of the loch to Gubseachan. The weather was stunning, perhaps the best yet: deep blue skies and warm sunshine. Sgurr Ghiubhsachain begins to come into view - not as impressive as it looks from Glenfinnan (it is the most eye-catching feature of the famous view down Loch Shiel from the monument) but still a superbly aesthetic peak with its soaring NNE ridge and classical profile. I parked at the fish farm a few km down the lake shore and then set off up the valley with Sgor nan Cearc to the east. Quite quickly, I left the valley base and tried to join the striking NNE ridge as soon as possible. This was steep but I gained it fairly easily and really enjoyed picking out the limited scrambling on the little outcrops that dot the ridge. I have seen this described as Grade III but in reality it is all very variable and entirely escapeable. Views were superb, back over the lake to Beinn Odhar Beag, up to the viaduct and Tuesday's peaks, with the pyramidal Ghubhsachain dominant ahead. The ridge is far longer than it looks, and longer than expected. It rises in perhaps three distinct tiers separated by flatter sections - only a tiny semblance of a path but all brilliant in beautiful weather. After a false top I gained the summit with views over the whole of Lochaber. Then I cut straight down to the untravelled valley which gave a boggy, tussocky and pathless route back to the lakeside and bike. A pleasant pootle back to Callop.

Moidart Ridge

Peaks: Druim Fiachlach, Sgurr na Ba Glaise, Rois Bheinn, An Stac

Area: Moidart, Scotland

This was another important piece of the jigsaw in this area: a beautiful set of peaks that are all just under Munro height and therefore even more untrodden and appealing. They look stunning from the road south from Mallaig, with the three Corbetts each having a distinctive, recognisable profile. I decided to do them justice by setting out from Lochailort itself, passed the big salmon factory and along a very tenuous path below the little lump of Tom Odhar. This led to a track not marked on the map. I encountered the farmer and had a nice chat before heading up into the main valley of the Ailort. I toyed with the idea of going up An Stac first but opted instead to contour up the left-hand side on completely pathless terrain - tussocks, bog, really hard going. I just had to read the landscape and eventually climbed up to the hanging valley below Drum Fiachlach where I had my eye on a slanting gangway that seemed to offer a nice way up to the ridge. It did, although it was very steep. I followed a stream/gorge to gain the upper cwm, then the gangway which eventually gained the ridge just below the true summit of Druim Fiachlach. Doing it this way really opens up a lovely horseshoe of the whole valley, with a well-defined ridge the whole way. The weather was cloudy with mist flirting with the summits, but the going along the ridge was wonderfully enjoyable. Views to the east over to Beinn Odhar Mor and down to Sgorr Dhonuill and Ardnamurchan were excellent, and a few grassy subpeaks eventually led to an easy climb up Sgurr na Ba Glaise. This is in a wonderful spot at the head of the valley and I relaxed for a while as the sun came out properly. Two golden plover accompanied me across the soft grass of the Bealach na Fhiona before a sharp climb up the dominant peak Rois Bheinn. This is celebrated for its views of the Small Isles and West Coast, poised as it is directly above the sea lochs and complex, indented coast. It was outstanding, and I spent longer on this summit than any other, reliving old times and looking forward to new ones (Rum in particular). The day so far had been easy, despite my increasing fatigue, but the climax was obviously going to be hard, over the isolated peak of An Stac. This stands alone and is very distinctive, but involved retracing my steps back to the obvious crossing point of the Bealach na Fhiona. Steep, loose ground, a bad line, led to the start of the climb up An Stac after having lost a lot of height! It was a hard ascent but I looked for some scrambling up the little outcrops and this worked quite well. The views down to Loch Ailort are almost as good as those from Rois Bheinn, outstanding with fluffy clouds and perfect clarity. I took a direct line on a tiny path down to the base of the main valley, and eventually picked up the ascent path under Tom Odhar all the way back to Lochailort after a chat with another farmer (18k/1500m/3.45). Fish, chips and beer in Mallaig overlooking Rum and Eigg under a cloudless sky was a delightful way to refuel.