Crag/Peak: Cwm Idwal/Cneifion/Clogwyn Du/Glyder Fawr
Routes: Heather Wall (VS 4b,4c:led p.2), Tennis Shoe p.3,4 (HS), Piton Route (VS 4c:sec), Pillar Chimney p.1 (led), Manx Wall (HS 4b,4b:led p.1)
Another classic Idwal enchainment up multiple routes in perfect weather: this was always going to be a real treat. The outing wasn't quite on the same scale as our last visit to the cwm in 2010, but involved a more concerted attempt to exploit the superb week of dry weather that we've had. Manx Wall, in particular, is a classic slow drying high mountain route that has been a target of mine for many years. We started, however, on Heather Wall - a mild VS on the dark East Wall of the Slabs. Even after all the dry weather, the start was still greasy, but the route was excellent - far better than I'd expected. Vic led a long (30m+) pitch up the centre of the obvious slab. This gives delightful 4b moves throughout, slabby and elegant, with some lovely sharp pockets. Superb compact rock throughout, not a hint of polish although perhaps slightly bold in places. I led the slightly harder top pitch which leaves the small belay on the apex of the slab to traverse left on good holds (I'd led this bit before, when we did East Wall Girdle). A little wall leads to a bulge and tiny thread. A couple of steep moves up gain good holds before a gentler groove curves round rightwards to a stance below Tennis Shoe. We then scrambled up the gentle middle pitches of Tennis Shoe on the left of the slabs before heading diagonally rightwards for Holly Tree Wall. We did this as one giant pitch, then had lunch, before Vic led the very fine Piton Route. I've done most of the other routes up here, but not this one. It gives an awkward early crux, in the mould of neighbouring Original Route, with tricky moves up a steep groove to gain more amenable climbing up a delightful rib. Very enjoyable relaxed mild VS climbing leads up the steep rib to the top: fun even with a big sac. We then traversed left, sustained scrambling, to gain obscure scrambling and easy climbing up the broken crags left of Senior's Ridge. This gives a fine upward route into Cwm Cneifion, which was drenched in sunshine. I've been up here maybe 10-15 times before, but had never seen it like this: more like Wadi Rum than a north-facing Welsh cwm. We drank from the stream then weaved up towards the intimidating Clogwyn Du. I've done a good few winter climbs up here, but had never done Manx Wall. It's a rare prize, as the crag is the ultimate slow-drying venue, feasible only in conditions like this. A steep slog gains Pillar Chimney, which then gives an enjoyable, highly atmospheric scramble for 100ft or so, up to a grassy slope below the chimney proper. It took some time to identify the line of Manx Wall, as there are several left-slanting lines of weakness. However, I tentatively set out along the series of small ledges and intermittent grooves than soon lead out over the crag. Bone dry throughout. I ended up merging the first three pitches of the original route, two tricky grooves being the highlight, until a very exposed traverse left along a footledge gains a thread belay in a great location. The top pitch is even more remarkable, up a slabby crack before a stomach traverse (very awkward to second with a big sac!) gains a small ledge. Good holds allow you to stand on the small exposed platform, reach up for enormous jugs, and use small footholds to gain a higher crack and easy climbing to the top. Exhilarating stuff, and certainly a route that packs a great deal of climbing into its 56 metres! Fabulous clarity of light as we topped out on the summit of Glyder Fawr, before jogging down (me taking the full sac) to gain the mild scrambling of Senior's Ridge followed by the more sustained scrambling in East Wall Gully. Perfect evening sunshine throughout. Summit of Glyder Fawr to my front door in a pleasingly efficient 2:15, after jogging the Idwal path and jumping straight into the car for the 65 mile journey.
Friday, May 25, 2012
Thursday, May 24, 2012
Cwm Silyn climbing
Crag: Craig yr Ogof, Cwm Silyn
Routes: Kirkus's Route (VS 4c,4b,4c,4c: led p.1,3), Outside Edge (VD: led p.1,2,5)
The superb weather continues, so we headed up to one of the classic Welsh mountain crags - a long drive beyond Penygroes for me, which is a partial explanation for why I haven't climbed at Cwm Silyn for 20 years. Mick and I treated the walk-in as training, ploughing along the gentle initial path in glorious morning sunshine, wonderful views of the two lakes, before heading straight up the scree with heavy sacks. We went for the classic VS of Kirkus's Route, which takes a highly appealing direct line straight up the right-hand side of the huge slab of Craig yr Ogof. I led the first pitch, which goes up blocky shelves to gain a rightward-trending diagonal crack. This gives excellent climbing up small, sharp holds, and sets the tone for the rest of the route. The trickiest section, possibly the crux of the whole route, comes towards the top but it is all quite easy. Mick then led through an easier second pitch, through a wet groove to gain an easy staircase to the obvious break. My third pitch required a bit of route-finding: indeed the entire route is remarkably unpolished. I wandered around a bit, to ensure I was on the right line, before enjoying superbly delicate climbing up sharp pockets. Perfect friction for a couple of moves over small overlaps. The sun was now upon us, and we began to warm up, but it was never desperately hot. I followed Mick up the excellent final pitch, big holds up another staircase to a beautiful clean slab. Delicate climbing up this allows for a higher pull over an overlap. An excellent route, with gently sustained easy VS climbing all the way, perhaps the most purely enjoyable route of its type in Snowdonia. We descended the Great Stone Shoot with surprising ease, then climbed out up Outside Edge after lunch. I did this route with Tim 20 years ago: it is, of course, one of the great easy Welsh classics (perhaps the best VD in Wales). I merged the first two pitches into one giant 45m haul, and our big sacs failed to spoil the fun of the easy groove followed by the superb rising leftward traverse. Probably steeper than Kirkus's, but huge holds ease progress. Mick led a 10m pitch to Sunset ledge before merging the final two pitches to the top. So, we almost managed the route in two pitches! Sunset ledge is a superb place, especially in this weather, and it was nice to linger there, lying down in the sunshine, as Mick led through: great views down to the lakes and the coast. I clearly remember being deflated by the final two pitches of Outside Edge when I did it - this was (I now realise) because we actually finished up the vastly inferior Ordinary Route! So I'd never done the top of Outside Edge before - it gives more excellent climbing in a superb position up ribs near the arete then up a tricky groove to a final pull over a bulge. I led a final pitch up the easy ridge before we walked along to the summit of Craig Cwm Silyn then down the ridge past hundreds of swifts and house martins to join the main path much lower down.
Routes: Kirkus's Route (VS 4c,4b,4c,4c: led p.1,3), Outside Edge (VD: led p.1,2,5)
The superb weather continues, so we headed up to one of the classic Welsh mountain crags - a long drive beyond Penygroes for me, which is a partial explanation for why I haven't climbed at Cwm Silyn for 20 years. Mick and I treated the walk-in as training, ploughing along the gentle initial path in glorious morning sunshine, wonderful views of the two lakes, before heading straight up the scree with heavy sacks. We went for the classic VS of Kirkus's Route, which takes a highly appealing direct line straight up the right-hand side of the huge slab of Craig yr Ogof. I led the first pitch, which goes up blocky shelves to gain a rightward-trending diagonal crack. This gives excellent climbing up small, sharp holds, and sets the tone for the rest of the route. The trickiest section, possibly the crux of the whole route, comes towards the top but it is all quite easy. Mick then led through an easier second pitch, through a wet groove to gain an easy staircase to the obvious break. My third pitch required a bit of route-finding: indeed the entire route is remarkably unpolished. I wandered around a bit, to ensure I was on the right line, before enjoying superbly delicate climbing up sharp pockets. Perfect friction for a couple of moves over small overlaps. The sun was now upon us, and we began to warm up, but it was never desperately hot. I followed Mick up the excellent final pitch, big holds up another staircase to a beautiful clean slab. Delicate climbing up this allows for a higher pull over an overlap. An excellent route, with gently sustained easy VS climbing all the way, perhaps the most purely enjoyable route of its type in Snowdonia. We descended the Great Stone Shoot with surprising ease, then climbed out up Outside Edge after lunch. I did this route with Tim 20 years ago: it is, of course, one of the great easy Welsh classics (perhaps the best VD in Wales). I merged the first two pitches into one giant 45m haul, and our big sacs failed to spoil the fun of the easy groove followed by the superb rising leftward traverse. Probably steeper than Kirkus's, but huge holds ease progress. Mick led a 10m pitch to Sunset ledge before merging the final two pitches to the top. So, we almost managed the route in two pitches! Sunset ledge is a superb place, especially in this weather, and it was nice to linger there, lying down in the sunshine, as Mick led through: great views down to the lakes and the coast. I clearly remember being deflated by the final two pitches of Outside Edge when I did it - this was (I now realise) because we actually finished up the vastly inferior Ordinary Route! So I'd never done the top of Outside Edge before - it gives more excellent climbing in a superb position up ribs near the arete then up a tricky groove to a final pull over a bulge. I led a final pitch up the easy ridge before we walked along to the summit of Craig Cwm Silyn then down the ridge past hundreds of swifts and house martins to join the main path much lower down.
Wednesday, May 23, 2012
Rhyl 5k
Race: Rhyl Suncentre 5k (North Wales 5k Championships)
Time/Position: 16:54 (6th from 93 [2nd V40])
As I was supposed to be abroad this week, I hadn't planned on doing this race. But the cancelled flight meant that it became an ideal opportunity for an evening speed session. Lovely tranquil summer evening, and a fine seaside race from the Suncentre out towards Prestatyn and the golf course. I've been struggling with another knee niggle, so thought this would be a good test in racing flats. I was therefore pleased and quite relieved to feel reasonably good, particularly as I haven't done intervals for a couple of months: no major problems from the knee, just a few aches. A slight headwind on the return leg meant the last couple of kilometres were slightly slower than the first three, but I felt relatively comfortable until having to dig in for the last 500m - mum's encouragement a great help at this point! I don't do many 5k's (the last one was in 2010), so this was a narrow PB by 5 seconds.
Time/Position: 16:54 (6th from 93 [2nd V40])
As I was supposed to be abroad this week, I hadn't planned on doing this race. But the cancelled flight meant that it became an ideal opportunity for an evening speed session. Lovely tranquil summer evening, and a fine seaside race from the Suncentre out towards Prestatyn and the golf course. I've been struggling with another knee niggle, so thought this would be a good test in racing flats. I was therefore pleased and quite relieved to feel reasonably good, particularly as I haven't done intervals for a couple of months: no major problems from the knee, just a few aches. A slight headwind on the return leg meant the last couple of kilometres were slightly slower than the first three, but I felt relatively comfortable until having to dig in for the last 500m - mum's encouragement a great help at this point! I don't do many 5k's (the last one was in 2010), so this was a narrow PB by 5 seconds.
Tuesday, May 22, 2012
Clogwyn Cyrau climbing
Crag: Clogwyn Cyrau, Betws y Coed
Routes: Bombers Wall route one (HS 4b,4b:led p.1), Jingling Wall (HS 4b:sec), Central Route variant (VS 4b:led), Swing High (VS 4b:sec), Academy (HS 4b:led), The Groove (VD:sol), Sion (S:sol), Siencyn (S:led)
After a disastrous start to the week, a cancelled flight and an opportunity missed, a great weather forecast meant that at least there was a chance to salvage something. Some climbing was in order as a distraction from the disappointment, and it looked like the whole week would be dry and sunny. This trip to Betws was therefore merely an ideal relaxed aperitif as we waited for bigger targets on the high crags to dry out for later in the week. I ticked a good number of the Cyrau classics during my last visit here in 2009, but hadn't done Bombers Wall before so led up its steepish initial groove to gain easier climbing to a big flake. Mick led up through the steep but juggy groove. Mick then led the best route here, Jingling Wall, which I've done before: excellent sun-drenched climbing up the wide groove to a slab, then the final steep groove. Superb views across the valley to Siabod. After lunch I set off up Central Route and took a right-hand variation away from the seemingly unprotected moves on the left-hand version. Swing High is a nice route further right on Conwy buttress. It goes 10m up the fine Conwy Corner (done before) before breaking off across the left wall, a fun hand traverse, to gain the juggy arete. A pleasant finish up the edge, much easier, gains the top. My lead, Academy, was dirty and greasy low down, before a big thread eases the passage to moves right across a rib on superb pocketed rock - echoes of Chateaudouble earlier this month - before moving left to a steep and surprisingly committing finish over a bulge. A good route which needs more traffic. Finished off by playing around on the easy routes on the smaller crag further right.
Routes: Bombers Wall route one (HS 4b,4b:led p.1), Jingling Wall (HS 4b:sec), Central Route variant (VS 4b:led), Swing High (VS 4b:sec), Academy (HS 4b:led), The Groove (VD:sol), Sion (S:sol), Siencyn (S:led)
After a disastrous start to the week, a cancelled flight and an opportunity missed, a great weather forecast meant that at least there was a chance to salvage something. Some climbing was in order as a distraction from the disappointment, and it looked like the whole week would be dry and sunny. This trip to Betws was therefore merely an ideal relaxed aperitif as we waited for bigger targets on the high crags to dry out for later in the week. I ticked a good number of the Cyrau classics during my last visit here in 2009, but hadn't done Bombers Wall before so led up its steepish initial groove to gain easier climbing to a big flake. Mick led up through the steep but juggy groove. Mick then led the best route here, Jingling Wall, which I've done before: excellent sun-drenched climbing up the wide groove to a slab, then the final steep groove. Superb views across the valley to Siabod. After lunch I set off up Central Route and took a right-hand variation away from the seemingly unprotected moves on the left-hand version. Swing High is a nice route further right on Conwy buttress. It goes 10m up the fine Conwy Corner (done before) before breaking off across the left wall, a fun hand traverse, to gain the juggy arete. A pleasant finish up the edge, much easier, gains the top. My lead, Academy, was dirty and greasy low down, before a big thread eases the passage to moves right across a rib on superb pocketed rock - echoes of Chateaudouble earlier this month - before moving left to a steep and surprisingly committing finish over a bulge. A good route which needs more traffic. Finished off by playing around on the easy routes on the smaller crag further right.
Wednesday, May 09, 2012
La Trinite climbing
Crag: La Trinite, Monaco/Nice, France
Routes: Croustillant (f4:led), Formes Ancestrales (f4+:sec), Exces de Vitesse (f4:sec), Anticalcaire (f5:led), Cinq Froid C'est Dur (f5:sec), Besoins Naturels (f5+/6a:led), Echec aux Maths (f5:sec), Courte Tisana (f4:sec)
Expectations were low for this, our 'airport crag' day. With a flight at 5pm, our choices were inevitably limited to the smaller crags near Nice and, having scratched around on very polished routes in places like Colle Sur Loup in the past, we approached La Trinite expecting something similar. The location isn't promising, either, below the A8 although not too far from Eze and Monaco. In the event, we barely even realised that the motorway was above, and we even had views up towards the Maritime foothills. Best of all, though, even though this is a disused quarry the routes are remarkably good. Some very striking lines, with distinctive and varied characters and styles of climbing and a spread of grades. I kicked off with a lead of Croustillant, which reminded me of the F5 at Castle Inn, a juggy romp up a steep wall on lovely flowstone holds - little stalactites and sharp jugs. Seconded the route to its left, similar, before following Vic up the inferior Exces de Vitesse. I assume the 3 stars in the guidebook was a mistake, because this slabby route with sloping holds was more like something from Trevor Rocks. Things improved dramatically with Anticalcaire, my lead. This was a superb pitch, a mini-classic, which takes the obvious steep groove to an early crux through an overhang to gain a delightful narrow slab. This gives wonderful delicate climbing on small flowstone features and little holds, shuffling out to the arete at times. Vic then led the meaty crackline of Cinq Froid, one of the powerful fissures splitting the main face. This seemed a tad undergraded, and gave painful jamming and positive laybacking up a very rough, jagged crack. A tricky start led to massive jugs and a fun finish. I was feeling quite good, so upped the grade to lead the classic Besoins Naturels. This was a wonderfully satisfying way to finish the trip. It initially takes a thought-provoking but steady corner groove formed by the edge of the main face and the slab. Some good moves up to a ledge and rest. Then comes the final crack, totally different in character, snaking diagonally right across the face. This is sustained and excellent, generally positive holds, no obvious crux, just absorbing moves throughout. I was pleased to climb this 30m route quickly and cleanly, feeling reasonably strong at last. We finished with two shorter routes, as the sun came out for the first time since Monday just in time for our drive to the airport. Another great trip, despite the lowly grades of the routes - inevitable given the fact that I'd only had time for one day on rock since last summer.
Routes: Croustillant (f4:led), Formes Ancestrales (f4+:sec), Exces de Vitesse (f4:sec), Anticalcaire (f5:led), Cinq Froid C'est Dur (f5:sec), Besoins Naturels (f5+/6a:led), Echec aux Maths (f5:sec), Courte Tisana (f4:sec)
Expectations were low for this, our 'airport crag' day. With a flight at 5pm, our choices were inevitably limited to the smaller crags near Nice and, having scratched around on very polished routes in places like Colle Sur Loup in the past, we approached La Trinite expecting something similar. The location isn't promising, either, below the A8 although not too far from Eze and Monaco. In the event, we barely even realised that the motorway was above, and we even had views up towards the Maritime foothills. Best of all, though, even though this is a disused quarry the routes are remarkably good. Some very striking lines, with distinctive and varied characters and styles of climbing and a spread of grades. I kicked off with a lead of Croustillant, which reminded me of the F5 at Castle Inn, a juggy romp up a steep wall on lovely flowstone holds - little stalactites and sharp jugs. Seconded the route to its left, similar, before following Vic up the inferior Exces de Vitesse. I assume the 3 stars in the guidebook was a mistake, because this slabby route with sloping holds was more like something from Trevor Rocks. Things improved dramatically with Anticalcaire, my lead. This was a superb pitch, a mini-classic, which takes the obvious steep groove to an early crux through an overhang to gain a delightful narrow slab. This gives wonderful delicate climbing on small flowstone features and little holds, shuffling out to the arete at times. Vic then led the meaty crackline of Cinq Froid, one of the powerful fissures splitting the main face. This seemed a tad undergraded, and gave painful jamming and positive laybacking up a very rough, jagged crack. A tricky start led to massive jugs and a fun finish. I was feeling quite good, so upped the grade to lead the classic Besoins Naturels. This was a wonderfully satisfying way to finish the trip. It initially takes a thought-provoking but steady corner groove formed by the edge of the main face and the slab. Some good moves up to a ledge and rest. Then comes the final crack, totally different in character, snaking diagonally right across the face. This is sustained and excellent, generally positive holds, no obvious crux, just absorbing moves throughout. I was pleased to climb this 30m route quickly and cleanly, feeling reasonably strong at last. We finished with two shorter routes, as the sun came out for the first time since Monday just in time for our drive to the airport. Another great trip, despite the lowly grades of the routes - inevitable given the fact that I'd only had time for one day on rock since last summer.
Tuesday, May 08, 2012
Gros Roucas climbing
Crag: Gros Roucas, Chateaudouble, Provence
Routes: Histoire Sans Fin (f5+,5+:led p.2), Peu d'Elephant p.1 (f5:led), Botanicus (f5+:sec), Variante (f4+:sec), Ciel Sauvage p.1 (f5:sec)
This was a late start by our standards, not leaving Esterel until 9am after a rare croissant and coffee breakfast on the terrace. As we were both somewhat fatigued after yesterday, it seemed like a logical choice to go back to Chateaudouble, and specifically the crag we'd bushwacked into, then been rained off, on Sunday. The routes are all two pitch affairs, but are relatively gentle, and the guidebook descriptions sounded superb. We arrived at the crag after a steep walk-in, to find the anticipated ultra-tranquil ambience. Nobody was around, despite the bank holiday, and we climbed all day to the rush of the river far below. Vic led the first pitch of Histoire Sans Fin, a local classic at around HVS/5+. This opening pitch was very good, and an ideal start up an elegant, simple slab of hard, grey limestone to a tricky crux move into the obvious groove. However, it was merely the aperitif for the stupendous second pitch. Good fortune gave me the lead, and the ground dropped away immediately as I left the small belay on sharp holds. The route moves gradually left round a blunt rib to make its way up a central tower. The climbing is out of this world, just perfect in terms of position and moves. The wall is steepish, but the rock is stupendous rough grey limestone, sculpted into wonderful sharp pockets and incut holds. It steepens to a short crux up a wide groove just before the top. This pitch is given four stars and a very enthusiastic description in the local guidebook! I wouldn't begrudge a single one of them, as it was up there with the best pitches I've ever done. Vic had belayed me on his grigri, so couldn't ab off. We initially tried to walk down, inevitably flailing through awful impenetrable maquis within minutes. So after hacking around and shedding yet more blood, tearing yet more clothing, we made our way back to the top chain and abbed off to the middle belay, hauling my belay plate back each time. After pissaladiere and a 2 kilo slice of quiche, Vic doubted my ability to get off the ground on the next route, but fortunately the initial slab of Peu d'Elephant was gentle. It was also extraordinarily rough limestone, giving the impression of an elephant's hide, and felt rather like pulling up shards of glass. It led to the central ledge. Vic then embarked on the big lead of Botanicus, a 36m sustained pitch up the all-too-obvious chimney/groove in the centre of the crag. My quiche didn't affect me too much for the steep initial groove, which overhangs gently for 5m or so, until the route moves more easily right into the main giant groove. I took the left wall of the groove, which was either a cop-out or an elegant solution, depending on your perspective. It gave fine climbing, though, on small positive holds, up to the very steep crux sequence at the top. I probably took this a little too far left, but it gave a pulsating few minutes work: generally good side pulls and wide bridging to the chains. A sustained route at around UK E1. Got down on the stretch of the rope, then did another slabby variant with rope above, before leading the initial pitch of Ciel Sauvage and going some way up the steeper second. Again, this was all on painfully sharp, rough limestone, and it was with some relief for my fingertips that we called it a day.
Routes: Histoire Sans Fin (f5+,5+:led p.2), Peu d'Elephant p.1 (f5:led), Botanicus (f5+:sec), Variante (f4+:sec), Ciel Sauvage p.1 (f5:sec)
This was a late start by our standards, not leaving Esterel until 9am after a rare croissant and coffee breakfast on the terrace. As we were both somewhat fatigued after yesterday, it seemed like a logical choice to go back to Chateaudouble, and specifically the crag we'd bushwacked into, then been rained off, on Sunday. The routes are all two pitch affairs, but are relatively gentle, and the guidebook descriptions sounded superb. We arrived at the crag after a steep walk-in, to find the anticipated ultra-tranquil ambience. Nobody was around, despite the bank holiday, and we climbed all day to the rush of the river far below. Vic led the first pitch of Histoire Sans Fin, a local classic at around HVS/5+. This opening pitch was very good, and an ideal start up an elegant, simple slab of hard, grey limestone to a tricky crux move into the obvious groove. However, it was merely the aperitif for the stupendous second pitch. Good fortune gave me the lead, and the ground dropped away immediately as I left the small belay on sharp holds. The route moves gradually left round a blunt rib to make its way up a central tower. The climbing is out of this world, just perfect in terms of position and moves. The wall is steepish, but the rock is stupendous rough grey limestone, sculpted into wonderful sharp pockets and incut holds. It steepens to a short crux up a wide groove just before the top. This pitch is given four stars and a very enthusiastic description in the local guidebook! I wouldn't begrudge a single one of them, as it was up there with the best pitches I've ever done. Vic had belayed me on his grigri, so couldn't ab off. We initially tried to walk down, inevitably flailing through awful impenetrable maquis within minutes. So after hacking around and shedding yet more blood, tearing yet more clothing, we made our way back to the top chain and abbed off to the middle belay, hauling my belay plate back each time. After pissaladiere and a 2 kilo slice of quiche, Vic doubted my ability to get off the ground on the next route, but fortunately the initial slab of Peu d'Elephant was gentle. It was also extraordinarily rough limestone, giving the impression of an elephant's hide, and felt rather like pulling up shards of glass. It led to the central ledge. Vic then embarked on the big lead of Botanicus, a 36m sustained pitch up the all-too-obvious chimney/groove in the centre of the crag. My quiche didn't affect me too much for the steep initial groove, which overhangs gently for 5m or so, until the route moves more easily right into the main giant groove. I took the left wall of the groove, which was either a cop-out or an elegant solution, depending on your perspective. It gave fine climbing, though, on small positive holds, up to the very steep crux sequence at the top. I probably took this a little too far left, but it gave a pulsating few minutes work: generally good side pulls and wide bridging to the chains. A sustained route at around UK E1. Got down on the stretch of the rope, then did another slabby variant with rope above, before leading the initial pitch of Ciel Sauvage and going some way up the steeper second. Again, this was all on painfully sharp, rough limestone, and it was with some relief for my fingertips that we called it a day.
Monday, May 07, 2012
Sainte Victoire climbing
Crag: Mont Sainte Victoire, Provence
Route: Grand Parcours (uD+/HVS 5b f5,5,5+,4+,2,3,2,4+,3,4,5+,5+,5,4:led p.1,3,5,6,8,10,12,14)
This route certainly lives up to its billing: a very 'big course' indeed, and one of the most famous mid-grade Provencal climbs. I have wanted to do it since Tim and I were rained off this fabulous crag 18 years ago, spending an afternoon sheltering in a bush gazing at this superb, huge line through the rain. This week, we had to choose our day carefully and did so, with today being the best forecast of the week, following an easy shakedown yesterday, and a working day sandwiched between a Sunday and a Bank Holiday (thereby ensuring we had the climb to ourselves). The weather was stunning, deep blue sky, warm rather than hot, as we walked in to the crag. The term 'crag' barely seems adequate to describe the 18km limestone wall of St Victoire, however! The Grand Parcours can be divided into four sections: an opening four pitches up the steep needle of Aiguille Bertine, then a broken, scrambly section which leads to a superb Alpine ridge. The obvious finale is provided by the soaring headwall of Le Signal. As I say, a beautifully elegant and compelling line which is very obvious from the A8 motorway, and grabbed me yet again as we drove to Ventoux last summer. I took the first pitch, which takes a delightful steep wall of limestone and looks hard from below. This is deceptive, however, as it is liberally furnished with hidden pockets and positive flakes which give lovely climbing. The problem, however, is that the entire wall is crisscrossed with different routes, most of which are single pitch. So following the true line of Grand Parcours is hard, initially, but also rewarding. I traversed left after 20m to gain a small ledge, then climbed delicately up superb pocketed rock to another large 'bucket' to belay in an uncomfortably cramped position. Vic then sought the easier rock left, soon gaining a simple, quite delicate slab which led to a big ledge and tree. We were now pulling away from the crag rats lower down, and my lead took the obvious steep crack past two reassuring trees. This was a good pitch, but harder than expected: the initial pull up was steep and polished, and the fixed gear notably only by its absence (one peg!). But we had a full rack, and I enjoyed the climbing up to a delightful stance overlooking Sainte Baume, heavy with the scent of Provencal herbs. Vic's pitch, the fourth, follows a slanting series of grooves diagonally left to gain some loose and easier shelves. Lovely sundrenched climbing to the tiny col at the top of the Aiguille Bertine and the end of the first section. I led a very easy long pitch, mainly walking, to the foot of the next short slabby wall, then continued up the left of this - a scrambly traverse gains a pleasant slab at around V Diff - until Vic led another scrambly pitch to gain the next major break, taken by the descent of Trace Noire. From this point, the route really unfolds: with the Signal headwall soaring intimidatingly above the ridge. First, the ridge must be gained, so I led a nice pitch up a series of enjoyable flake cracks to traverse right below the obvious overhang and belay in a tiny windgap at the start of the ridge. The wind whistled through the gap, and necessitated a fleece. Vic then led a long (70m) pitch up the superb Alpine ridge, very enjoyable, and I followed up with another long pitch which was even better, taking the obvious 15m steeper gendarme on the ridge, lovely climbing with a rare peg, to gain more knife-edged but easy climbing to the vegetated gap below the headwall. We were now out of the wind, and had a short break - relishing the views, the herbs and the tranquility - as we contemplated the onward route up the headwall. This looks even steeper from below than it looks from the motorway, but is a compelling objective. Vic led the long initial crackline, and I followed. The problem was that the sack was now becoming a real problem. It weighed several kilos with all the water, shoes and clothes, and the nature of this pitch made life awkward for me. The crack went easily up to a steep and sustained 20m section where it widened. With the big sack this became a brutal, physical struggle, very hard to get the weight off my arms with the sack pushing me out of the crack. Good characterful climbing though, with sharp holds, interesting bridging and jamming. Vic had a tiny hanging stance, and I ditched the sac with relief. The problem now was that I had the crux 5c+ pitch and was drained of energy after carrying the sac up the steep crack. Fortunately, the crux was short, up the steep left-hand crack splitting the final nose. Several old ring pegs reduced some of the stress, and I had to rest a number of times. One nut placement, to back up the old pegs, was awkward and semi-blind, taking up more of my dwindling energy. Difficult thrutchy moves finally gained a tree and easier climbing to a bigger ledge in a superb position high on the crag. The route kept coming, however, with a very steep start to the next pitch which gave Vic a few problems. I was dreading following with the big sac, as it required a very steep pull up a series of flakes before traversing left to gain an easier gully system, but in the event I'd regained some strength at the stance and managed the steep sequence reasonably well. The long series of grooves was superb, snaking left over the face to gain a tree and belay. This gave me the final pitch, our 14th, and exhilerating romp rightwards over to gain a superbly exposed rib hanging above the headwall. Easy climbing up this gained a couple of bolts and broken grooves to the summit ridge festooned with Alpine flowers and herbs. A wonderful few minutes of relaxation and recuperation, gazing out at the fantastic crystal clear views to the Rhone, the sea, Camargue, Ventoux and Maritime Alps. The day wasn't over, however, as we had to traverse the lovely ridge of St Victoire towards the Croix de Provence. I'd climbed the peak at the eastern end of the ridge, Pic de Mouches, ten years ago so it was nice to be up here again. The ridge leads to the cave of the Tunnel de Garagai, and this kicks off an intriguing and wonderful descent, which just tops the day off. Good, polished scrambling through the huge caves leads to an intricate series of grooves and shelves to gain a scree funnel. The route continues in this vein, intricate and fascinating scrambling through hostile terrain. It is basically a gradually descending traverse, the only way to negotiate the series of crags the runs along the entire length of the face. It also gives superb views of the ridge and headwall of our route in perfect evening sunshine. A long, rewarding, memorable day - more than 7 hours car to car. Pizza and beer on the terrace was much appreciated that evening.
Route: Grand Parcours (uD+/HVS 5b f5,5,5+,4+,2,3,2,4+,3,4,5+,5+,5,4:led p.1,3,5,6,8,10,12,14)
This route certainly lives up to its billing: a very 'big course' indeed, and one of the most famous mid-grade Provencal climbs. I have wanted to do it since Tim and I were rained off this fabulous crag 18 years ago, spending an afternoon sheltering in a bush gazing at this superb, huge line through the rain. This week, we had to choose our day carefully and did so, with today being the best forecast of the week, following an easy shakedown yesterday, and a working day sandwiched between a Sunday and a Bank Holiday (thereby ensuring we had the climb to ourselves). The weather was stunning, deep blue sky, warm rather than hot, as we walked in to the crag. The term 'crag' barely seems adequate to describe the 18km limestone wall of St Victoire, however! The Grand Parcours can be divided into four sections: an opening four pitches up the steep needle of Aiguille Bertine, then a broken, scrambly section which leads to a superb Alpine ridge. The obvious finale is provided by the soaring headwall of Le Signal. As I say, a beautifully elegant and compelling line which is very obvious from the A8 motorway, and grabbed me yet again as we drove to Ventoux last summer. I took the first pitch, which takes a delightful steep wall of limestone and looks hard from below. This is deceptive, however, as it is liberally furnished with hidden pockets and positive flakes which give lovely climbing. The problem, however, is that the entire wall is crisscrossed with different routes, most of which are single pitch. So following the true line of Grand Parcours is hard, initially, but also rewarding. I traversed left after 20m to gain a small ledge, then climbed delicately up superb pocketed rock to another large 'bucket' to belay in an uncomfortably cramped position. Vic then sought the easier rock left, soon gaining a simple, quite delicate slab which led to a big ledge and tree. We were now pulling away from the crag rats lower down, and my lead took the obvious steep crack past two reassuring trees. This was a good pitch, but harder than expected: the initial pull up was steep and polished, and the fixed gear notably only by its absence (one peg!). But we had a full rack, and I enjoyed the climbing up to a delightful stance overlooking Sainte Baume, heavy with the scent of Provencal herbs. Vic's pitch, the fourth, follows a slanting series of grooves diagonally left to gain some loose and easier shelves. Lovely sundrenched climbing to the tiny col at the top of the Aiguille Bertine and the end of the first section. I led a very easy long pitch, mainly walking, to the foot of the next short slabby wall, then continued up the left of this - a scrambly traverse gains a pleasant slab at around V Diff - until Vic led another scrambly pitch to gain the next major break, taken by the descent of Trace Noire. From this point, the route really unfolds: with the Signal headwall soaring intimidatingly above the ridge. First, the ridge must be gained, so I led a nice pitch up a series of enjoyable flake cracks to traverse right below the obvious overhang and belay in a tiny windgap at the start of the ridge. The wind whistled through the gap, and necessitated a fleece. Vic then led a long (70m) pitch up the superb Alpine ridge, very enjoyable, and I followed up with another long pitch which was even better, taking the obvious 15m steeper gendarme on the ridge, lovely climbing with a rare peg, to gain more knife-edged but easy climbing to the vegetated gap below the headwall. We were now out of the wind, and had a short break - relishing the views, the herbs and the tranquility - as we contemplated the onward route up the headwall. This looks even steeper from below than it looks from the motorway, but is a compelling objective. Vic led the long initial crackline, and I followed. The problem was that the sack was now becoming a real problem. It weighed several kilos with all the water, shoes and clothes, and the nature of this pitch made life awkward for me. The crack went easily up to a steep and sustained 20m section where it widened. With the big sack this became a brutal, physical struggle, very hard to get the weight off my arms with the sack pushing me out of the crack. Good characterful climbing though, with sharp holds, interesting bridging and jamming. Vic had a tiny hanging stance, and I ditched the sac with relief. The problem now was that I had the crux 5c+ pitch and was drained of energy after carrying the sac up the steep crack. Fortunately, the crux was short, up the steep left-hand crack splitting the final nose. Several old ring pegs reduced some of the stress, and I had to rest a number of times. One nut placement, to back up the old pegs, was awkward and semi-blind, taking up more of my dwindling energy. Difficult thrutchy moves finally gained a tree and easier climbing to a bigger ledge in a superb position high on the crag. The route kept coming, however, with a very steep start to the next pitch which gave Vic a few problems. I was dreading following with the big sac, as it required a very steep pull up a series of flakes before traversing left to gain an easier gully system, but in the event I'd regained some strength at the stance and managed the steep sequence reasonably well. The long series of grooves was superb, snaking left over the face to gain a tree and belay. This gave me the final pitch, our 14th, and exhilerating romp rightwards over to gain a superbly exposed rib hanging above the headwall. Easy climbing up this gained a couple of bolts and broken grooves to the summit ridge festooned with Alpine flowers and herbs. A wonderful few minutes of relaxation and recuperation, gazing out at the fantastic crystal clear views to the Rhone, the sea, Camargue, Ventoux and Maritime Alps. The day wasn't over, however, as we had to traverse the lovely ridge of St Victoire towards the Croix de Provence. I'd climbed the peak at the eastern end of the ridge, Pic de Mouches, ten years ago so it was nice to be up here again. The ridge leads to the cave of the Tunnel de Garagai, and this kicks off an intriguing and wonderful descent, which just tops the day off. Good, polished scrambling through the huge caves leads to an intricate series of grooves and shelves to gain a scree funnel. The route continues in this vein, intricate and fascinating scrambling through hostile terrain. It is basically a gradually descending traverse, the only way to negotiate the series of crags the runs along the entire length of the face. It also gives superb views of the ridge and headwall of our route in perfect evening sunshine. A long, rewarding, memorable day - more than 7 hours car to car. Pizza and beer on the terrace was much appreciated that evening.
Sunday, May 06, 2012
Chateaudouble/Dramont climbing
Crag: Rebouillon, Chateaudouble, Provence
Routes: Rebouillon de Culture (f5:led), Prise d'Info (f5:sec), Fa, Si, la Grimper (f5:led), Mais t'es Haut (f5+:sec), Fort Braillard (f5:sec)
Crag: Cap Dramont, Esterel, Provence
Routes: L'Orange (f6a:led), Razzia sur la Schnouffe (f6a:sec), Feu Interdit (f6a:sec)
It looked like the start of our fourth consecutive May climbing trip to Provence would be thwarted by bad weather as we sat listening to thundery rain in the early morning. By 9ish, the sky was looking a little brighter so we headed off to Chateaudouble - the longer drive giving the crags time to dry, we hoped. We'd been very impressed by the large Marinouns crag in this valley last year, so decided to start off with the easy routes lower down the valley this year (mindful of a potentially huge day tomorrow). The gorge is now barred to traffic, with climbers parking near the barrier: the effect is to increase the tranquility and attractiveness of an already lovely setting. After a short walk-in, I kicked off with an ideal relaxed lead of a pleasant f5, which takes a steepish wall to a delicate finish. Vic then led a route up the obvious cracks/groove to the right, at a similar grade: trending left across the wall. Another slabby f5 lead for me culminated in a very nice orange slab: quite delicate and thought-provoking. Vic then led the main classic of this smaller crag: Mais t'es Haut, an excellent 28m pitch with takes a steep wall of grey limestone to a crux bulge. This gains a gap in a long overlap. A splendid pull through this on sharp holds gains a superb final groove. Perfect jugs and bridging make this comfortable until it really steepens just before the top: but huge holds sustain the standard. Great pitch, followed up by the variant start of Fort Braillard to its left which gives slabby climbing on flat holds. The weather was beginning to threaten, so we had a quick lunch (the now traditional pissaladiere) before heading up to the bigger and more isolated crag of Gros Roucas. It began to rain as we walked in, prospects not looking good, but worse was to come as we failed to read the guidebook and ploughed blindly into the maquis. Cue a hellish half hour of muddy flailing, ripped clothes, cuts and bruises as we tried to locate the crag in thick vegetation. We finally lost touch with each other, just as the rain got worse and a tremendous thunderstorm erupted. I eventually retraced my steps and the heavens really opened: torrential rain, the path flowing with water. We jumped into the car, soaking wet, and drove towards the coast. Within 5k, at Draguignan, it was dry! So we drove round to Cap Dramont for a couple more routes before dinner. As usual, once we were off the limestone and on to the rhyolite of Esterel, we could immediately lead a grade harder, so I kicked off with L'Orange, a short route on the lower, pathside 'tier' of Dramont. This goes gently up to a short, steep and intense crux sequence. Good sharp holds, and quite powerful at the top, as are the two similar routes to the left (Razzia) and right (Feu Interdit).
Routes: Rebouillon de Culture (f5:led), Prise d'Info (f5:sec), Fa, Si, la Grimper (f5:led), Mais t'es Haut (f5+:sec), Fort Braillard (f5:sec)
Crag: Cap Dramont, Esterel, Provence
Routes: L'Orange (f6a:led), Razzia sur la Schnouffe (f6a:sec), Feu Interdit (f6a:sec)
It looked like the start of our fourth consecutive May climbing trip to Provence would be thwarted by bad weather as we sat listening to thundery rain in the early morning. By 9ish, the sky was looking a little brighter so we headed off to Chateaudouble - the longer drive giving the crags time to dry, we hoped. We'd been very impressed by the large Marinouns crag in this valley last year, so decided to start off with the easy routes lower down the valley this year (mindful of a potentially huge day tomorrow). The gorge is now barred to traffic, with climbers parking near the barrier: the effect is to increase the tranquility and attractiveness of an already lovely setting. After a short walk-in, I kicked off with an ideal relaxed lead of a pleasant f5, which takes a steepish wall to a delicate finish. Vic then led a route up the obvious cracks/groove to the right, at a similar grade: trending left across the wall. Another slabby f5 lead for me culminated in a very nice orange slab: quite delicate and thought-provoking. Vic then led the main classic of this smaller crag: Mais t'es Haut, an excellent 28m pitch with takes a steep wall of grey limestone to a crux bulge. This gains a gap in a long overlap. A splendid pull through this on sharp holds gains a superb final groove. Perfect jugs and bridging make this comfortable until it really steepens just before the top: but huge holds sustain the standard. Great pitch, followed up by the variant start of Fort Braillard to its left which gives slabby climbing on flat holds. The weather was beginning to threaten, so we had a quick lunch (the now traditional pissaladiere) before heading up to the bigger and more isolated crag of Gros Roucas. It began to rain as we walked in, prospects not looking good, but worse was to come as we failed to read the guidebook and ploughed blindly into the maquis. Cue a hellish half hour of muddy flailing, ripped clothes, cuts and bruises as we tried to locate the crag in thick vegetation. We finally lost touch with each other, just as the rain got worse and a tremendous thunderstorm erupted. I eventually retraced my steps and the heavens really opened: torrential rain, the path flowing with water. We jumped into the car, soaking wet, and drove towards the coast. Within 5k, at Draguignan, it was dry! So we drove round to Cap Dramont for a couple more routes before dinner. As usual, once we were off the limestone and on to the rhyolite of Esterel, we could immediately lead a grade harder, so I kicked off with L'Orange, a short route on the lower, pathside 'tier' of Dramont. This goes gently up to a short, steep and intense crux sequence. Good sharp holds, and quite powerful at the top, as are the two similar routes to the left (Razzia) and right (Feu Interdit).
Saturday, May 05, 2012
Llangynhafal Loop
Race: Llangynhafal Loop (4.75m/1750ft)
Time/Position: 44:48 (5th from 72 [3rd V40])
With our flights to Nice leaving Liverpool later in the afternoon, this was perhaps a little ambitious in terms of scheduling. But Vic and I thought we should be able to squeeze it in, and at least we were well motivated to get a move on! A fairly relaxed start saw a group of five or so pull away at the front, but Jez soon built an unassailable lead leaving the rest of us to fight it out for second. I kept a reasonable pace going on the always deceptive climb up Nant y Ne to the gully: it always looks gentle, but never feels it. I did my usual striding on the gully, no running, and got the top of Famau in third. But it was all very close and I was losing ground with every descent. Felt reasonably sharp along the ridge but never sensed that I was pulling away from those behind. After losing quite a bit of ground to fast descenders, I had a good final climb and our group of chasers more or less reassembled as we crested the final spur. It was then a downhill sprint, flat-out, for second: a race I inevitably lost as quicker descenders thundered past on the steep slopes back to the finish. Just over 12 seconds separated 2nd and 5th. Vic and I then ran down to the car and drove to the airport to begin our annual Provencal climbing holiday.
Time/Position: 44:48 (5th from 72 [3rd V40])
With our flights to Nice leaving Liverpool later in the afternoon, this was perhaps a little ambitious in terms of scheduling. But Vic and I thought we should be able to squeeze it in, and at least we were well motivated to get a move on! A fairly relaxed start saw a group of five or so pull away at the front, but Jez soon built an unassailable lead leaving the rest of us to fight it out for second. I kept a reasonable pace going on the always deceptive climb up Nant y Ne to the gully: it always looks gentle, but never feels it. I did my usual striding on the gully, no running, and got the top of Famau in third. But it was all very close and I was losing ground with every descent. Felt reasonably sharp along the ridge but never sensed that I was pulling away from those behind. After losing quite a bit of ground to fast descenders, I had a good final climb and our group of chasers more or less reassembled as we crested the final spur. It was then a downhill sprint, flat-out, for second: a race I inevitably lost as quicker descenders thundered past on the steep slopes back to the finish. Just over 12 seconds separated 2nd and 5th. Vic and I then ran down to the car and drove to the airport to begin our annual Provencal climbing holiday.
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