Peak: Tryfan
Route: First Pinnacle Rib (D:led in 6 p's)
It always feels like a bonus to get any Snowdonian climbing done this late in the year, no matter how easy, and this was a delightful way to revisit a grand old classic of the Welsh mountains. I last did this route in the early 90s: perhaps the only one of Tryfan's classic triptych that I've never repeated. Sunshine was just peeping through the milky cloud as Steve, Vic and myself slogged up to the Heather Terrace - a very familiar journey indeed. Nobody else was around, and I still have vivid memories of myself and Tim picking off all the mountaineering classics on the East Face in similar circumstances in the winter of 1992. The nomenclature of the two pinnacle rib routes has got a bit confusing over the years, but we set off up Pinnacle Rib route, the right-hand line. A deep groove, delicious in the sunshine, leads to a chockstone and steepening to flakes and a stance. I brought Steve and Vic up, then led an equally enjoyable second up the steeper front of the rib. Above, a broken series of steep walls gives a long pitch. Vic led a 10m wall left to gain the pinnacle, where we merged with the left-hand line to ensure we got the Yellow Slab. This is much harder than the rest of the route, a delicate and distinct crux up a perfect rippled slab. I'm not sure I have ever led this before: it is short-lived and leads to a groove and big holds. Above, the final (sixth) pitch takes a photogenic rib of sheaved, curving rock: I remembered this as if it was yesterday, lovely relaxing climbing with the deep gulf of South Gully beyond. The sun was dropping as we lunched, along with the air temperature, so we avoided the continuation wall and scrambled up to the summit: sunny and clear, although a bank of cloud was spilling over the Glyder ridge. I suggested descending North and Little gullies, an old trick of mine, and they enjoyed the continuation of the rock work and directness. A jog down Heather Terrace got us back to the car well before sunset: an efficient little outing.
Monday, October 30, 2017
Sunday, October 29, 2017
Halloween Hellraiser
Race: Halloween Hellraiser XC, Nantwich (10.5m)
Time/Position: 1.11.41 (8th from 125 [2nd V45])
I was staggered to realise it has been seven years since I last did this race, which is an enjoyable tour through the Cheshire countryside, rather like an ultra-long cross-country figure of eight. In 2010, I finished 6th and first Veteran, so was pleased to finish not too far off that today, although I felt rather sluggish throughout. The course is longer than it was, starting through a series of fields which lead to various short road sections and a descent through a graveyard. All the hills are short-lived, and there are several interesting sections, including a field full of frisian cows, good views of Mow Cop, and a horrible ploughed field near the finish. I found myself in a good battle for 7th place, and we both chose to run all the way round the edge of the ploughed field, a lengthy detour! Good fun, and good cakes to round off as I picked up the V45 prize, but only by default as Jez came 2nd.
Time/Position: 1.11.41 (8th from 125 [2nd V45])
I was staggered to realise it has been seven years since I last did this race, which is an enjoyable tour through the Cheshire countryside, rather like an ultra-long cross-country figure of eight. In 2010, I finished 6th and first Veteran, so was pleased to finish not too far off that today, although I felt rather sluggish throughout. The course is longer than it was, starting through a series of fields which lead to various short road sections and a descent through a graveyard. All the hills are short-lived, and there are several interesting sections, including a field full of frisian cows, good views of Mow Cop, and a horrible ploughed field near the finish. I found myself in a good battle for 7th place, and we both chose to run all the way round the edge of the ploughed field, a lengthy detour! Good fun, and good cakes to round off as I picked up the V45 prize, but only by default as Jez came 2nd.
Saturday, October 21, 2017
Llandudno XC
Race: Llandudno 6m (North Wales Cross Country League, race 2)
Time/Position: 38.50 (24th from 159 [2nd V45])
Appalling conditions for the second race of the season, adding a bit of extra spice to this excellent circuit: proper, hard cross country terrain. I'd missed the first race of the season, so this was essential and we set off in driving rain and galeforce winds as 'Storm Brian' hit its peak. After looping the sports fields at St David's College, muddy climbs and descents lead to a dry wooded section before a big and exposed loop over boggy fields to the south. Two giant loops make this a long XC course, particularly so in these trying conditions. I felt pretty good, for a change, although it was very hard to close gaps in the wind and rain. After the finish, completely soaked, I enjoyed a mild dose of hypothermia until we warmed up in the cafe.
Time/Position: 38.50 (24th from 159 [2nd V45])
Appalling conditions for the second race of the season, adding a bit of extra spice to this excellent circuit: proper, hard cross country terrain. I'd missed the first race of the season, so this was essential and we set off in driving rain and galeforce winds as 'Storm Brian' hit its peak. After looping the sports fields at St David's College, muddy climbs and descents lead to a dry wooded section before a big and exposed loop over boggy fields to the south. Two giant loops make this a long XC course, particularly so in these trying conditions. I felt pretty good, for a change, although it was very hard to close gaps in the wind and rain. After the finish, completely soaked, I enjoyed a mild dose of hypothermia until we warmed up in the cafe.
Sunday, October 15, 2017
British Fell Relays
Race: British fell relay championships, Llanberis (Leg 3, navigation)
Time/Position: 1.58.29 (72nd from 181)
An unusual taste of responsibility as I captained the team for the first time, having entered as soon as I heard it was coming back to Llanberis. This was our sixth time at the relays: I've done every one, it is always a great day out and this year we brought a strong team. Steve got us off to a great start on a tough first leg, with Peter and Simon keeping pace on the long second. Andy and I had the nav leg, only the second time I have done this leg (Long Mynd being the first). It does put a bit of pressure on, as a mistake can result in devastating time losses which affect the entire team. As it happens, we did OK but perhaps could have taken slightly more efficient lines at some points. We took a short-cut path through the fields to the first CP on top of the little hill south of the quarries, then went too low around Bryn Mawr to CP2 (although we didn't lose any height). It was then into thick clag and strong winds, slogging up to the summit of Moel Eilio before dropping down to CP3 below Bwlch Cwm Casig on the Betws Garmon side. Herein lay some controversy. We could hear voices in the mist on the Cwellyn side, but the rules made it pretty clear that crossing points had to be used (as is standard on mountain marathons). These were both virtually on the summit. But there was also an obvious illegal short-cut, contouring Eilio on the Cwellyn side with almost no climbing involved. Some teams obviously did that, as we were suddenly joined by lots more runners who effectively overtook us as we dropped out of the mist to CP4 below Foel Gron. The run-in was long but not complex, with no real route choice above Llyn Dwythiwch north to Bwlch y Groes and a fast final descent, ultra boggy, on which Andy cut his leg open after a nasty fall. Adrenalin got him to the finish. Chris then put in a fantastic final leg and we finished 61st overall, just squeezing into the top third of what is always a very high calibre field.
Time/Position: 1.58.29 (72nd from 181)
An unusual taste of responsibility as I captained the team for the first time, having entered as soon as I heard it was coming back to Llanberis. This was our sixth time at the relays: I've done every one, it is always a great day out and this year we brought a strong team. Steve got us off to a great start on a tough first leg, with Peter and Simon keeping pace on the long second. Andy and I had the nav leg, only the second time I have done this leg (Long Mynd being the first). It does put a bit of pressure on, as a mistake can result in devastating time losses which affect the entire team. As it happens, we did OK but perhaps could have taken slightly more efficient lines at some points. We took a short-cut path through the fields to the first CP on top of the little hill south of the quarries, then went too low around Bryn Mawr to CP2 (although we didn't lose any height). It was then into thick clag and strong winds, slogging up to the summit of Moel Eilio before dropping down to CP3 below Bwlch Cwm Casig on the Betws Garmon side. Herein lay some controversy. We could hear voices in the mist on the Cwellyn side, but the rules made it pretty clear that crossing points had to be used (as is standard on mountain marathons). These were both virtually on the summit. But there was also an obvious illegal short-cut, contouring Eilio on the Cwellyn side with almost no climbing involved. Some teams obviously did that, as we were suddenly joined by lots more runners who effectively overtook us as we dropped out of the mist to CP4 below Foel Gron. The run-in was long but not complex, with no real route choice above Llyn Dwythiwch north to Bwlch y Groes and a fast final descent, ultra boggy, on which Andy cut his leg open after a nasty fall. Adrenalin got him to the finish. Chris then put in a fantastic final leg and we finished 61st overall, just squeezing into the top third of what is always a very high calibre field.
Saturday, October 07, 2017
Trefriw Mill fell race
Race: Trefriw Mill (17km/2886ft)
Time/Position: 1.56.36 (9th from 37)
Guilty of slightly underestimating this race, a minor case of familiarity breeding contempt. It is a new, or revived, circuit around an area I know well, heading up from Trefriw to the paths and tracks leading west to Cefn Cyfarwydd. Conditions were quite good: mild with some mist, but generally the cloud base stayed just above the ridge. The long crossing of the complex ridge over Creigiau Gleision is boggy at the best of times, but was waist deep and very arduous today. I fell in three different places between the main Gleision summit and over Craig Wen and Crimpiau: always wonderful views over Cowlyd to the rest of the Carneddau. But, although I know the ridge well and have done it many times, I still managed to underestimate the return leg. After a superb descent down steep grass to Crafnant, I bonked on the way back over the shoulder of Mynydd Deulyn to Geirionydd: no food and a long period of suffering as I staggered along the bouldery and awkward lakeside path. At the last checkpoint, mercifully, two jelly babies materialised: I could therefore regain some kind of pace for the wonderful north and east above the Crafnant valley and down to the Conwy valley and the abrupt finish in Trefriw.
Time/Position: 1.56.36 (9th from 37)
Guilty of slightly underestimating this race, a minor case of familiarity breeding contempt. It is a new, or revived, circuit around an area I know well, heading up from Trefriw to the paths and tracks leading west to Cefn Cyfarwydd. Conditions were quite good: mild with some mist, but generally the cloud base stayed just above the ridge. The long crossing of the complex ridge over Creigiau Gleision is boggy at the best of times, but was waist deep and very arduous today. I fell in three different places between the main Gleision summit and over Craig Wen and Crimpiau: always wonderful views over Cowlyd to the rest of the Carneddau. But, although I know the ridge well and have done it many times, I still managed to underestimate the return leg. After a superb descent down steep grass to Crafnant, I bonked on the way back over the shoulder of Mynydd Deulyn to Geirionydd: no food and a long period of suffering as I staggered along the bouldery and awkward lakeside path. At the last checkpoint, mercifully, two jelly babies materialised: I could therefore regain some kind of pace for the wonderful north and east above the Crafnant valley and down to the Conwy valley and the abrupt finish in Trefriw.
Friday, October 06, 2017
Tryfan scramble
Peak: Tryfan
Routes: V Buttress (M:sol), Notch Arete (M:led p.1+3), Zig Zag (M:sol)
My old friend and climbing partner Tim was back from NZ for his first visit in five years. A special occasion but time was tight meaning that we weren't able to start until well after 3pm, which is hardly ideal for a mountain day in October! Relaxed scrambling was the order of the day, in rather cool weather with high, milky cloud. I suggested a route up the west face of Tryfan and repeated the scramble that I'd taken John up a couple of years ago. A slog to the base of V Buttress, which is a pleasant if rather brief scramble. We roped up for an exposed section at the top, then slogged over to the delightful Notch Arete which we pitched. This is a lovely route on the border of scrambling and climbing, on magnificent rock, and allows for full relaxation and chat. Then it was up the North Ridge, nostalgic for expat Tim, and down via the Heather Terrace and a final route up the right-hand side of Tryfan Bach. Nostalgia was the order of the day, as we'd paired up many times to cut our teeth on Tryfan in the late 80s and early 90s.
Routes: V Buttress (M:sol), Notch Arete (M:led p.1+3), Zig Zag (M:sol)
My old friend and climbing partner Tim was back from NZ for his first visit in five years. A special occasion but time was tight meaning that we weren't able to start until well after 3pm, which is hardly ideal for a mountain day in October! Relaxed scrambling was the order of the day, in rather cool weather with high, milky cloud. I suggested a route up the west face of Tryfan and repeated the scramble that I'd taken John up a couple of years ago. A slog to the base of V Buttress, which is a pleasant if rather brief scramble. We roped up for an exposed section at the top, then slogged over to the delightful Notch Arete which we pitched. This is a lovely route on the border of scrambling and climbing, on magnificent rock, and allows for full relaxation and chat. Then it was up the North Ridge, nostalgic for expat Tim, and down via the Heather Terrace and a final route up the right-hand side of Tryfan Bach. Nostalgia was the order of the day, as we'd paired up many times to cut our teeth on Tryfan in the late 80s and early 90s.
Wednesday, October 04, 2017
Trevor climbing
Crag: Trevor Rocks, Eglwyseg
Routes: Disappearing Act (f5a:led), Clue, So (f4c:led), Suspect Device (f6a+:led), Innocence (f5c:led), Crime Scene (f6b:sec)
Cold winds and drizzle threatening: a familiar scene as I arrived direct from work for a brief late season session. After failing on the crux of the horrible No Remittal, with greasy rock and numb hands up an apparent one-armed mantel move, I led up the f5 corner done numerous times before. The easy arete to its right (Clue, So) is perhaps the most climbed route in the entire area: I remember doing it when it was first bolted over 10 years ago, and thinking it quite pleasant by the standards of British limestone. It is now polished to a high sheen, an illustration of the paucity of such routes locally. Much better was Suspect Device, which allowed me to salvage some pride after failing on the baffling mantel further right. This went easily up to the break, then a hard move on small but distinct holds allows a high step on to the nice upper wall - this is rough and textured, and gives good climbing. The rain started in earnest as I set out up the 6b of Crime Scene. By the time I reached the crux, it was wet, so I switched to the top part of Innocence, two grades easier but still tricky in the wet. We both seconded the 6b, enjoying its technicalities despite the wet and cold: autumn has well and truly arrived.
Routes: Disappearing Act (f5a:led), Clue, So (f4c:led), Suspect Device (f6a+:led), Innocence (f5c:led), Crime Scene (f6b:sec)
Cold winds and drizzle threatening: a familiar scene as I arrived direct from work for a brief late season session. After failing on the crux of the horrible No Remittal, with greasy rock and numb hands up an apparent one-armed mantel move, I led up the f5 corner done numerous times before. The easy arete to its right (Clue, So) is perhaps the most climbed route in the entire area: I remember doing it when it was first bolted over 10 years ago, and thinking it quite pleasant by the standards of British limestone. It is now polished to a high sheen, an illustration of the paucity of such routes locally. Much better was Suspect Device, which allowed me to salvage some pride after failing on the baffling mantel further right. This went easily up to the break, then a hard move on small but distinct holds allows a high step on to the nice upper wall - this is rough and textured, and gives good climbing. The rain started in earnest as I set out up the 6b of Crime Scene. By the time I reached the crux, it was wet, so I switched to the top part of Innocence, two grades easier but still tricky in the wet. We both seconded the 6b, enjoying its technicalities despite the wet and cold: autumn has well and truly arrived.
Sunday, October 01, 2017
Capenhurst Border League
Race: Capenhurst 5m (Border League race 1)
Time/Position: 28.56 (29th from 385)
After having a reasonably good run at the 5k here in August, I was surprised to look down at my watch towards the finish to see such a slow time: my worst finishing position in the league for many years. Thought I might be regaining a bit of speed after the lay-off, but that proved a forlorn hope. Quite a quick start, as competitive as it has ever been: my 12th season in the league. A very fast first mile made me think it might have been measured wrong, but none of us really blew so the slow time is just that, slow. Buckley in first place in division 1 after this opener, hardly surprising with such huge numbers of new runners joining.
Time/Position: 28.56 (29th from 385)
After having a reasonably good run at the 5k here in August, I was surprised to look down at my watch towards the finish to see such a slow time: my worst finishing position in the league for many years. Thought I might be regaining a bit of speed after the lay-off, but that proved a forlorn hope. Quite a quick start, as competitive as it has ever been: my 12th season in the league. A very fast first mile made me think it might have been measured wrong, but none of us really blew so the slow time is just that, slow. Buckley in first place in division 1 after this opener, hardly surprising with such huge numbers of new runners joining.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)