Crag: Trevor, Eglwyseg
Routes: Deputy Dog (f4c:sec), Dogmatic (f6a:led), Long Legged Lizard from Liverpool (f6a:led), Hornier Toad (f6b:sec), K9 (f5a:sec), Dogs of War (f6a+:sec), Chocolate Fudd (f6a+:led*), Chocolate Fudd (f6a+:sec), Betty Bop Rides Again (VS 4c:sec), Elmer J Fudd (VS 4b:led), The Fuddites (f6b:sec)
Yet another trip to this most scruffy of crags: too many recent visits. It is convenient, though, and worked for training purposes on this short outing. Steve led an easy route, and I followed up with Dogmatic, up a dirty groove at 6a. I was trying to tick the few routes I haven't done before and almost all are characterised by short, hard cruxes: the French grading system doesn't really work at this scruffy venue. Most of the shorter routes are not sustained, but have tough, usually polished cruxes. I led the easy 6a up the slab, done before, and then did Hornier Toad - hard moves above the bulge on a tiny side pull. Two more short ones, then Chocolate Fudd at 6a+. This is better, rough and textured rock, and quite sustained. Small holds lead to the arete, then moves left to clip the final bolt and a dynamic finish, quite hard for the grade. I briefly weighted the bolt: so did it again from the bottom clean. After failing on The Fuddites at 6b, I led Elmer Fudd on trad gear (an easy VS), then did it clean - a fierce pull on a mono leads to a flat hold and easier finish. Finished with a jog over the viaduct.
Monday, April 30, 2018
Thursday, April 26, 2018
Holyhead Mountain climbing
Crag: Holyhead Mountain
Routes: The Wandering Primrose (S 4a:led), Stairs (S 4a:sec), Teenage Kicks (S 4a:led), Laceration (VS 5a:sec), Sump Direct (HS 4b:led), Andover (VS 5a:sec), Tempest (S 4a:led), Tension (VS 4b:sec)
Always an ideal venue for an early season shakedown, with its varied routes and friendly aspect. We just concentrated on mileage on this short, late visit, with the weather less-than-ideal yet again (ironically, the London marathon weekend was by far the hottest of the year so far). It was cold and very windy as I led the Wandering Primrose, which takes a slab to an overlap with a delicate step to gain a spike. Then easy climbing up nice pocketed rock to the freezing top. After Vic led Stairs, I took the arete to its right (as ever, I was trying to tick routes I hadn't done before). Teenage Kicks starts up the gully before pulling onto the arete which gives nice airy climbing to join the upper Stairs slab. I've done Laceration before, a pleasant VS, and followed this with Sump Direct. I don't think I've done this before: a nice juggy corner leads to a vague and easy ramp, before a steep and slightly thrutchy finishing chimney (not ideal with a right elbow entirely skinned after my marathon fall, raw flesh scraping rock). Nice route, varied: light rain throughout, but it cleared to blue sunshine as we moved across to the Quartz Wall and Vic led Andover. This is a fine pitch, new to me, steep but superbly juggy, as with most of the routes on this wall. An overlap after 10m is taken on wonderful quartzy holds and the rest stays interesting. On the way down, I spied the attractive groove taken by Tempest and nipped up it: a short but worthwhile Severe and a very obvious line with a steep finish. Finally, as more cool weather moved in, Vic led the old favourite Tension, which I've led in the past: a delightful VS which looks tricky but is actually delightfully simple from start to finish, superbly positive holds throughout.
Routes: The Wandering Primrose (S 4a:led), Stairs (S 4a:sec), Teenage Kicks (S 4a:led), Laceration (VS 5a:sec), Sump Direct (HS 4b:led), Andover (VS 5a:sec), Tempest (S 4a:led), Tension (VS 4b:sec)
Always an ideal venue for an early season shakedown, with its varied routes and friendly aspect. We just concentrated on mileage on this short, late visit, with the weather less-than-ideal yet again (ironically, the London marathon weekend was by far the hottest of the year so far). It was cold and very windy as I led the Wandering Primrose, which takes a slab to an overlap with a delicate step to gain a spike. Then easy climbing up nice pocketed rock to the freezing top. After Vic led Stairs, I took the arete to its right (as ever, I was trying to tick routes I hadn't done before). Teenage Kicks starts up the gully before pulling onto the arete which gives nice airy climbing to join the upper Stairs slab. I've done Laceration before, a pleasant VS, and followed this with Sump Direct. I don't think I've done this before: a nice juggy corner leads to a vague and easy ramp, before a steep and slightly thrutchy finishing chimney (not ideal with a right elbow entirely skinned after my marathon fall, raw flesh scraping rock). Nice route, varied: light rain throughout, but it cleared to blue sunshine as we moved across to the Quartz Wall and Vic led Andover. This is a fine pitch, new to me, steep but superbly juggy, as with most of the routes on this wall. An overlap after 10m is taken on wonderful quartzy holds and the rest stays interesting. On the way down, I spied the attractive groove taken by Tempest and nipped up it: a short but worthwhile Severe and a very obvious line with a steep finish. Finally, as more cool weather moved in, Vic led the old favourite Tension, which I've led in the past: a delightful VS which looks tricky but is actually delightfully simple from start to finish, superbly positive holds throughout.
Wednesday, April 25, 2018
Deeside border league
Race: Deeside 4.6m (Border League race 6)
Time/Position: 27.17 (52nd from 322)
Probably the fourth or fifth time I've done the final border league fixture three days after London. It is never pleasant, but at least this time it didn't count for anything for me (unlike 2016, when it all came down to the last race in Prestatyn). However, Buckley were going for the league title, for only the second time since I've been a member (2006 was the last time I think), along with the Veterans title again. But, in the event, I didn't even score for the team: first time that's happened as far as I can remember. It seemed like I was maintaining a decent speed, in a group with familiar faces, but the reality was that I was well down the field and recorded my lowest finishing position for at least a decade.
Time/Position: 27.17 (52nd from 322)
Probably the fourth or fifth time I've done the final border league fixture three days after London. It is never pleasant, but at least this time it didn't count for anything for me (unlike 2016, when it all came down to the last race in Prestatyn). However, Buckley were going for the league title, for only the second time since I've been a member (2006 was the last time I think), along with the Veterans title again. But, in the event, I didn't even score for the team: first time that's happened as far as I can remember. It seemed like I was maintaining a decent speed, in a group with familiar faces, but the reality was that I was well down the field and recorded my lowest finishing position for at least a decade.
Sunday, April 22, 2018
London marathon
Race: London Marathon
Time/Position: 3.13.50 (2305th from 42000)
My slowest road marathon since 2007, coincidentally (or not!) the last 'hot' London marathon. Temperatures today climbed to 24c, so it wasn't ideal for fast times - but I still expected to do a little better, although I knew well in advance that I was nowhere near PB territory. The problem today was obvious - I have lots of distance in my legs from recent ultras but no speed - indeed, ultras just encourage you to walk at various points. So it wasn't a surprise to find myself struggling at the classic 17-18m point. To make matters worse, I was tripped from behind five miles in: skinned my elbow quite badly and felt like a wounded wildebeeste on the Serengeti as herds of ruthless good-for-age runners trampled past, preventing me from getting to my feet. After this slight shock, I went through half as planned in 1.28.48, nicely on course for my 6th sub-3 marathon, although I already knew that it was going to be tough in the heat, and was already struggling to maintain the pace from the 10 mile mark. I love the event, though, even when I struggle. This was my 8th running of the London marathon since my first in 2001 (and 21st road marathon): it is just such a tremendous route and such a privilege to be part of a major sporting event. The weather meant the crowds were better than ever, and particularly memorable in the usual places: Tower Bridge, the Embankment and the early stages around Cutty Sark. St John's Ambulance did a fine job of bandaging my bloodied arm in St James's Park: then it was back to Oakwood and straight into the car for the five hour drive home for a bath!
Time/Position: 3.13.50 (2305th from 42000)
My slowest road marathon since 2007, coincidentally (or not!) the last 'hot' London marathon. Temperatures today climbed to 24c, so it wasn't ideal for fast times - but I still expected to do a little better, although I knew well in advance that I was nowhere near PB territory. The problem today was obvious - I have lots of distance in my legs from recent ultras but no speed - indeed, ultras just encourage you to walk at various points. So it wasn't a surprise to find myself struggling at the classic 17-18m point. To make matters worse, I was tripped from behind five miles in: skinned my elbow quite badly and felt like a wounded wildebeeste on the Serengeti as herds of ruthless good-for-age runners trampled past, preventing me from getting to my feet. After this slight shock, I went through half as planned in 1.28.48, nicely on course for my 6th sub-3 marathon, although I already knew that it was going to be tough in the heat, and was already struggling to maintain the pace from the 10 mile mark. I love the event, though, even when I struggle. This was my 8th running of the London marathon since my first in 2001 (and 21st road marathon): it is just such a tremendous route and such a privilege to be part of a major sporting event. The weather meant the crowds were better than ever, and particularly memorable in the usual places: Tower Bridge, the Embankment and the early stages around Cutty Sark. St John's Ambulance did a fine job of bandaging my bloodied arm in St James's Park: then it was back to Oakwood and straight into the car for the five hour drive home for a bath!
Thursday, April 19, 2018
Meliden climbing
Crag: Meliden Quarry
Routes: Hodgson's Groove (f4+:led), Ward's Right Wall (f6b:led), Ward's Left Wall (f6b:sec), Shit No Holds (f6a+*:led), Between the Trees (D:sol), The Steps (D:sec), Grim Rapper (f4:des), First Redpoint (f4:sec)
Finally, a beautiful spring day, and what better place to spend it than a derelict quarry above Meliden? I have never bothered with this place before for good reason, but only had a couple of hours at my disposal as I'd been in work most of the day. So it seemed a good opportunity to tick off the few short routes. The 4+ groove is reasonable, and I then led the right-hand 6b: again, short, but technical climbing on very small but positive holds, with reasonable friction from the relatively unpolished limestone. The 6a+ takes an overhang at the finish, a sharp crux which I did with rope above not wanting to land on the ledge two days before the London marathon! I also did a couple of the easy trad routes, and the two easy routes on the far right. Hot and sunny throughout - the first time I've been in a t-shirt since Cuba.
Routes: Hodgson's Groove (f4+:led), Ward's Right Wall (f6b:led), Ward's Left Wall (f6b:sec), Shit No Holds (f6a+*:led), Between the Trees (D:sol), The Steps (D:sec), Grim Rapper (f4:des), First Redpoint (f4:sec)
Finally, a beautiful spring day, and what better place to spend it than a derelict quarry above Meliden? I have never bothered with this place before for good reason, but only had a couple of hours at my disposal as I'd been in work most of the day. So it seemed a good opportunity to tick off the few short routes. The 4+ groove is reasonable, and I then led the right-hand 6b: again, short, but technical climbing on very small but positive holds, with reasonable friction from the relatively unpolished limestone. The 6a+ takes an overhang at the finish, a sharp crux which I did with rope above not wanting to land on the ledge two days before the London marathon! I also did a couple of the easy trad routes, and the two easy routes on the far right. Hot and sunny throughout - the first time I've been in a t-shirt since Cuba.
Monday, April 16, 2018
Llanymynech climbing
Crag: Llanymynech
Routes: The Stringlers (f6b:led), Bah Bah Black Sheep (f6a+:led), Welcome to the Bay variant (f6a:led), Bay Leaf (f5c:sec), Culture Vulture (f5b:sec), Eau de Culture (f5c:led), Culture and Boutique (f6a:sec), No Name (f6a:led*), Culture Cryptic (f5b:sec)
We remembered the 70m rope but due to a mutual misunderstanding we forgot the 15 quickdraws necessary for this venue, only discovering the error at the car park. I'd been with Steve last year and been quite impressed with the Grid Iron wall, but the pitches are very long by the standards of UK sports climbing. Vic and I cobbled together 6 or 7 quickdraws, enough for just the smaller routes - rather annoying. I kicked off with The Stringlers, which takes a vague broken corner via a series of ledges and a couple of tricky moves with a steep crux at the top. Not very good, and not 6b - probably no more than 6a, although the final move over a bulge was hard. Vic backed off the fine 6a+ on the right of the crag: I led this last year and was glad to do so again, it is one of the best sports routes of its grade locally with a steep crux overlap and nice technical wall climbing above. It was getting windy, probably too windy for the bigger routes anyway, so we sought shelter at the Bay Wall over the Welsh border well away from the big walls on the 'Shropshire' side. This is a pretty dreadful crag, insecure and broken. It looks unappealing from below and is even worse in reality. I led a version of Welcome to the Bay, which ended up as a giant traverse, surprisingly long, with dirty and insecure climbing diagonally right up the wall, lowering off before the formal lower-off point which was in a dodgy looking rock scar. I retrieved the gear via the slightly better, more solid, and more logical shallow groove of Bay Leaf. The Cult wall, opposite, is better and more solid: Vic led the two routes at 5b that Steve and I did last year. I led a nice f5c up little positive edges (pulling a big hold off at one point) and we polished off all the routes as the sun finally came out providing some much needed warmth.
Routes: The Stringlers (f6b:led), Bah Bah Black Sheep (f6a+:led), Welcome to the Bay variant (f6a:led), Bay Leaf (f5c:sec), Culture Vulture (f5b:sec), Eau de Culture (f5c:led), Culture and Boutique (f6a:sec), No Name (f6a:led*), Culture Cryptic (f5b:sec)
We remembered the 70m rope but due to a mutual misunderstanding we forgot the 15 quickdraws necessary for this venue, only discovering the error at the car park. I'd been with Steve last year and been quite impressed with the Grid Iron wall, but the pitches are very long by the standards of UK sports climbing. Vic and I cobbled together 6 or 7 quickdraws, enough for just the smaller routes - rather annoying. I kicked off with The Stringlers, which takes a vague broken corner via a series of ledges and a couple of tricky moves with a steep crux at the top. Not very good, and not 6b - probably no more than 6a, although the final move over a bulge was hard. Vic backed off the fine 6a+ on the right of the crag: I led this last year and was glad to do so again, it is one of the best sports routes of its grade locally with a steep crux overlap and nice technical wall climbing above. It was getting windy, probably too windy for the bigger routes anyway, so we sought shelter at the Bay Wall over the Welsh border well away from the big walls on the 'Shropshire' side. This is a pretty dreadful crag, insecure and broken. It looks unappealing from below and is even worse in reality. I led a version of Welcome to the Bay, which ended up as a giant traverse, surprisingly long, with dirty and insecure climbing diagonally right up the wall, lowering off before the formal lower-off point which was in a dodgy looking rock scar. I retrieved the gear via the slightly better, more solid, and more logical shallow groove of Bay Leaf. The Cult wall, opposite, is better and more solid: Vic led the two routes at 5b that Steve and I did last year. I led a nice f5c up little positive edges (pulling a big hold off at one point) and we polished off all the routes as the sun finally came out providing some much needed warmth.
Thursday, April 12, 2018
Windgather climbing
Crag: Windgather, Western Grit
Routes: Mississippi Crack (S 4a:led), Wall Climb (HVD:led), Chockstone Chimney (D:led)
The plan had been to climb Ravensdale limestone this morning, but after a night in Ravenstor YHA and a pint or two at the Angler's Rest, the day dawned dank, misty and drizzly again. It was even worse than yesterday, so we headed west and just tried to grab a couple of routes at Windgather before going home. The mist was so thick that we couldn't see the crag from the road, and the windchill at the top of the crag was intense. But, as with Castle Naze, the cliff itself was relatively sheltered and I enjoyed Mississippi Crack, which starts steeply over a bulge before romping to the top up big holds: a splendid easy mini-classic. Two more routes, even easier, and both done on my '40 at 40' day in 2010, before the cold wind became unbearable.
Routes: Mississippi Crack (S 4a:led), Wall Climb (HVD:led), Chockstone Chimney (D:led)
The plan had been to climb Ravensdale limestone this morning, but after a night in Ravenstor YHA and a pint or two at the Angler's Rest, the day dawned dank, misty and drizzly again. It was even worse than yesterday, so we headed west and just tried to grab a couple of routes at Windgather before going home. The mist was so thick that we couldn't see the crag from the road, and the windchill at the top of the crag was intense. But, as with Castle Naze, the cliff itself was relatively sheltered and I enjoyed Mississippi Crack, which starts steeply over a bulge before romping to the top up big holds: a splendid easy mini-classic. Two more routes, even easier, and both done on my '40 at 40' day in 2010, before the cold wind became unbearable.
Wednesday, April 11, 2018
Castle Naze climbing
Crag: Castle Naze, Western Grit
Routes: Studio (HS 4b:sec), The Nithin (S 4a:led), Pilgrim's Progress (HS 4b:sec), Muscle Crack/Thin Crack (HS 4b:led)
Appalling weather as we headed across for what was supposed to be an intensive 30 hour climbing trip to the Peak. A moist easterly airflow meant it was unseasonably cold (4c), windy, misty and drizzly - with the weather marginally better in the western Peak. I felt that Castle Naze would give us the best chance of getting something done, and that was indeed the case. But visibility was just a few metres in thick mist and light drizzle was in the air as Vic set off up Studio, which has an awkward start with cold, damp jams up to a mantel before an easier slanting crack to finish. I followed up with the Nithin, which takes a steep crack then good moves up an arete before finishing up a damp chimney. A nice, varied route which kept me out of the drizzle. We then did the old classic Pilgrim's Progress which was hard in these conditions on the first real trad outing of the season. A steep crack with rounded arete holds, surprisingly strenuous, to a green and slimy finish. I then combined the easy start of Muscle Crack to a ledge before finishing up the top section of Thin Crack at around HS. Most of the other routes were damp, green, or both, so we called it a day. My second visit to Castle Naze, a nice venue, quite wild feeling in these conditions: we could have been in the middle of nowhere, as opposed to a few miles outside Chapel en le Frith.
Routes: Studio (HS 4b:sec), The Nithin (S 4a:led), Pilgrim's Progress (HS 4b:sec), Muscle Crack/Thin Crack (HS 4b:led)
Appalling weather as we headed across for what was supposed to be an intensive 30 hour climbing trip to the Peak. A moist easterly airflow meant it was unseasonably cold (4c), windy, misty and drizzly - with the weather marginally better in the western Peak. I felt that Castle Naze would give us the best chance of getting something done, and that was indeed the case. But visibility was just a few metres in thick mist and light drizzle was in the air as Vic set off up Studio, which has an awkward start with cold, damp jams up to a mantel before an easier slanting crack to finish. I followed up with the Nithin, which takes a steep crack then good moves up an arete before finishing up a damp chimney. A nice, varied route which kept me out of the drizzle. We then did the old classic Pilgrim's Progress which was hard in these conditions on the first real trad outing of the season. A steep crack with rounded arete holds, surprisingly strenuous, to a green and slimy finish. I then combined the easy start of Muscle Crack to a ledge before finishing up the top section of Thin Crack at around HS. Most of the other routes were damp, green, or both, so we called it a day. My second visit to Castle Naze, a nice venue, quite wild feeling in these conditions: we could have been in the middle of nowhere, as opposed to a few miles outside Chapel en le Frith.
Sunday, April 08, 2018
Mold border league
Race: Mold 5m (Border League race 6)
Time/Position: 29.26 (35th from 333)
My decline continues, although after last week's ultra and current total lack of speedwork that is perhaps not too surprising. This is the closest I have come in a decade to not even scoring for Buckley! In the event, I squeezed in as the 10th counter: the team is now well ahead at the top of division 1. I was actually reasonably pleased with my time, only half a minute down on the other two measured five milers this season, on a tougher course. I thought I'd timed the race quite well, making up ground to catch Chris and other Buckley runners with a mile to go. I then blew comprehensively on the final incline back through the industrial estate, losing 10 places, something that has happened in this precise spot numerous times before! After the race, I ran home via an extended route through Buckley: combined with a three mile warm up this gave a decent 16-17 mile long run, the last before London.
Time/Position: 29.26 (35th from 333)
My decline continues, although after last week's ultra and current total lack of speedwork that is perhaps not too surprising. This is the closest I have come in a decade to not even scoring for Buckley! In the event, I squeezed in as the 10th counter: the team is now well ahead at the top of division 1. I was actually reasonably pleased with my time, only half a minute down on the other two measured five milers this season, on a tougher course. I thought I'd timed the race quite well, making up ground to catch Chris and other Buckley runners with a mile to go. I then blew comprehensively on the final incline back through the industrial estate, losing 10 places, something that has happened in this precise spot numerous times before! After the race, I ran home via an extended route through Buckley: combined with a three mile warm up this gave a decent 16-17 mile long run, the last before London.
Friday, April 06, 2018
Pot Hole climbing
Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: Mango (HS 4a:led), Grizzly (HVS 5a:sec), Cristallo (VS 4b:sec), Selva (VS 4a:sec)
A quick rain-affected visit before the usual Friday run. Yesterday's nice weather hadn't lasted, although it was at least dry as I led Mango (for a quick re-acquaintance with trad) up the side wall. This takes some nice flake cracks to a ledge with a tree before a positive finishing crack. Not quite as badly polished as the main face, although that isn't saying much. There was a team on the best lines, so we just top-roped some of the shorter routes on the right as the rain began. Evening sunshine as we ran up Moel Famau, however.
Routes: Mango (HS 4a:led), Grizzly (HVS 5a:sec), Cristallo (VS 4b:sec), Selva (VS 4a:sec)
A quick rain-affected visit before the usual Friday run. Yesterday's nice weather hadn't lasted, although it was at least dry as I led Mango (for a quick re-acquaintance with trad) up the side wall. This takes some nice flake cracks to a ledge with a tree before a positive finishing crack. Not quite as badly polished as the main face, although that isn't saying much. There was a team on the best lines, so we just top-roped some of the shorter routes on the right as the rain began. Evening sunshine as we ran up Moel Famau, however.
Thursday, April 05, 2018
Trevor climbing
Crag: Trevor Rocks, Eglwyseg
Routes: SND (f4:sec), Cluedo (f5c:sec), Suspect Criminal (f6b:led), Clue, So? (f4+:sec), Amateur Sleuth (f5c:led), Suspectus (f6a+:led*), Suspectus (f6a+:sec), Disappearing Act (f5:led), No Remittal (f6a:sec), Who's Sam (f4:led)
I have long maintained this is one of the worst crags in North Wales, although I've done almost all the routes under 6c so it must be tolerable! Today, after some unaccustomed March wall training, I managed to tick a few of the routes I haven't done before. The best of these was Suspect Criminal, which I led after Steve kicked off with an easy groove. This 6b takes a simple rib to a fierce pull over the overlap to gain the excellent bubbly limestone above. The holds are not obvious, and small, but they are positive and a high step got me established on the bulging finishing wall which is easier than it looks from below. Nice climbing on sharp holds gains the lower-off. Steve led the polished arete, and we then did the truly dreadful f5c to its right, sloping holds, horrible start. Suspectus is the 6a+ which takes the brown groove: I steadied myself on the second clip which is awkwardly placed at the bulge. Powerful moves up this to the break, before short-lived by much more pleasant climbing on the upper wall. I then did it clean with rope above. The polish at this venue is now a bit of an issue, giving some hard starts for the grades. Lovely weather today, superb clarity of spring light - despite the scruffy nature of the crag itself, the views over the valley to Berwyn are some of the best in north-east Wales.
Routes: SND (f4:sec), Cluedo (f5c:sec), Suspect Criminal (f6b:led), Clue, So? (f4+:sec), Amateur Sleuth (f5c:led), Suspectus (f6a+:led*), Suspectus (f6a+:sec), Disappearing Act (f5:led), No Remittal (f6a:sec), Who's Sam (f4:led)
I have long maintained this is one of the worst crags in North Wales, although I've done almost all the routes under 6c so it must be tolerable! Today, after some unaccustomed March wall training, I managed to tick a few of the routes I haven't done before. The best of these was Suspect Criminal, which I led after Steve kicked off with an easy groove. This 6b takes a simple rib to a fierce pull over the overlap to gain the excellent bubbly limestone above. The holds are not obvious, and small, but they are positive and a high step got me established on the bulging finishing wall which is easier than it looks from below. Nice climbing on sharp holds gains the lower-off. Steve led the polished arete, and we then did the truly dreadful f5c to its right, sloping holds, horrible start. Suspectus is the 6a+ which takes the brown groove: I steadied myself on the second clip which is awkwardly placed at the bulge. Powerful moves up this to the break, before short-lived by much more pleasant climbing on the upper wall. I then did it clean with rope above. The polish at this venue is now a bit of an issue, giving some hard starts for the grades. Lovely weather today, superb clarity of spring light - despite the scruffy nature of the crag itself, the views over the valley to Berwyn are some of the best in north-east Wales.
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