Saturday, August 30, 2014

Maesgwm Muddle

Race: Maesgwm Muddle fell race (16.2k/1160m)
Peaks: Moel Cynghorion, Foel Goch, Foel Gron, Moel Eilio, Cefn Du
Time/Position: 1.47.47 (57th from 182)
A very similar route to the long leg of the fell relays last October, but with added punishment in the form of arbitrary steep descents and bonus climbs. I ran this because it was the fourth race of the Welsh Champs, but in the knowledge that it was also a British Champs race: which always means that you get blown away by proper athletes. Perhaps my eighth or ninth time at a British Champs race: they are a salutary lesson in just how slow you really are! The pace was quick from the start, a climb from the youth hostel above Llanberis to gain the big track that undulates its way over to Hebron station and the savage climb up the steepest side of Moel Cynghorion. My left shoe came off in a particularly cloying bog en route: an infuriating and time-consuming schoolboy error. Cynghorion is just a head down plod from Helfa Fawr, very steep, but I did start to gain a few places and held on for the equally steep and quite infamous descent down to Maesgwm. This was the arbitrary bit, because the route then heads up the runnable bridleway to regain the main ridge. I was plodding along over Foel Goch and Foel Gron, then into the mist below Moel Eilio: all the time gradually losing time and places in this competitive field. A slow descent down the very runnable track to Bwlch y Groes, which I know well, saw more go past. I finally started to feel some endurance kick in for the final arbitrary climb up Cefn du. For the first time in the race, I felt quite good and made up some ground up to its moorland summit. A reasonably quick descent to Llanberis followed by a very unpleasant 200m climb up a steep field to finish. Both previous races across this ridge (relays in September, Moel Eilio in May) were characterised by bad weather, but today all was calm and the rain held off until the moment we left Llanberis for Penrhyn Castle.

Sunday, August 24, 2014

Wild Wales Challenge

Road Cycling: Wild Wales Challenge (Bala-Milltir Gerrig-Llangynog-Llanerfyl-Caersws-Dinas Mawddwy-Bwlch y Groes-Bala)
Distance: 100m/10,900ft
The climax of this event, up the infamous 'hard' side of Bwlch y Groes after 90 miles and 9,000ft of climbing, will remain ingrained in my mind for some considerable time. A brilliant day out on the bike over a very tough but pleasingly logical loop, and a great way to conclude my cycling year. I did something similar in 2011, my last 'cycling year', but remember finding the hard sportive I'd chosen to end the season with (Tour of the Peak) a little depressing after the Alps. Not the case this time, on home ground in Wales with fantastic scenery round every corner. We (me, Vic, Alun) started off in thick early morning fog in Bala, and quickly reached the first climb, a harder than expected ascent of Milltir Gerrig. I didn't even know the tiny road from Llandderfel east of Moel Heulog existed: it gives an appallingly steep start to the normal climb, then joins the B4391 for the superb open terrain which characterises the Milltir Gerrig. A taste of things to come: tiny, quiet roads and viscious gradients (the day's theme). A superb descent in the sunshine led to Llangynog and a side lane down the Tanat Valley. From here, many miles of narrow roads with virtually no flat sections, led through Llanfihangel yng Ngwynfa and Dolanog to eventually emerge at the first feed in Llanerfyl. This entire section was incredibly quiet, very beautiful and utterly unfamiliar. I thought I knew Wales well, but today's route proved otherwise and reminded me of the old adage that the country is the perfect size to get to know every corner of in one human lifetime. After tea and cakes in the village hall, we resumed battle. Still felt fresh, the company was good, and we were fairly well-matched for pace throughout. More very steep climbs characterised the next section to Caersws, where we had lunch in another village hall. Great atmosphere. Then came an unusual flat section up the Severn Valley where we could work in a group for a change. Over to Clywedog and more wonderful scenery (remote and unfamiliar, numerous red kites overhead) through Staylittle before beginning the climb over towards Dinas Mawddwy and the final feed. This was a little easier than expected, particularly after the brutality of the morning! Exquisite isolated terrain, though, past Rhiw Saeson, with a whiff of home ground as views started opening out over Cader. One sharp climb led to the main road and descent to Dinas Mawddwy. Bwlch y Groes was hanging over us, but after more cake and tea I was feeling reasonably optimistic as we entered the valley of doom! We passed the side valley of Cwm Cywarch, memories of our climbing trips there a few years ago, then headed up via a few teasing ramps to Llanymawddwy. You leave the trees via a sharp hairpin and you are into the infamous Bwlch y Groes. This starts hard, even a tad desperate after almost 7 hours in the saddle. But I got into the lowest gear and began to grind away. The scenery is great, of course, real Aran territory with steep slopes and crags either side. After about 1.5k, there is a slight easing before the desperate climax, round another bend into what is often described as the hardest section of road in Britain. Out of the saddle, I clawed upwards, then it eases off by the turn-off to Vyrnwy. Vic pulled alongside and we crested the Bwlch together and had a short break to enjoy the excellent clarity of light (it had clouded over but the rain held off) over the Aran ridge and across to Eryri, before enjoying the superb descent to Llanuwchllyn. Felt good for the ride back to Bala along the quiet side of Llyn Tegid. Just under 8 hours riding time, but that is irrelevant: the point is to enjoy the ride and to finish! The first drops of rain fell as we enjoyed a last slice of cake at the football ground finish. A wonderful tour, statistically similar to my big Alpine day on the Madeleine and Glandon a month ago, but very much harder as a result of the continual short steep climbs and descents. Loved the uncommercial low-key feel, far better than most sportives and much closer in spirit to a fell race.

Friday, August 22, 2014

Penmaenbach climbing

Crag: Penmaenbach Quarry, Conwy
Routes: A55 Hole Arete (f5:led), Jefferson Slab (f6a:sec), Y Clip Aur (f6a:led), Prelude to a Pint (f6c:led), The Whole of the Law (f6c:sec), Kato (f5+:sec), Samoa (f6a:sec), Playboys (f6a+:sec), Hitachi Arete (f6a+:led)
The first glimpses of blue sky after hours of rain as we parked up at Sychnant Pass. But it was still cold, windy and damp as we walked into the newly developed 'last but one level' which I'd run out of time to visit on last Friday's visit to the same quarry. A lovely walk between Allt Fawr and Conwy Mountain, with the sea in front, which brought us out below a nice looking slab of compact dolerite. I led the obvious arete on the left of the slab to start us off: shivering in the cold wind, but happy that the drizzle was starting to die away, and the rock was relatively dry. It gave a nice climb: shuffling out to the arete at times, moving up small edges on the slab at others. The routes are all of a decent length and are good quality by the standards of UK sports climbing: better than the lower tier, a good venue in a great location. Jefferson Slab was a little more technical: delicate and thought-provoking moves, and probably a tad harder than the similarly graded Y Clip Aur to its right. This goes up on small holds to a series of huge quartz jugs then a crux move over a steepening. Nice climb, but a tad overgraded (in common with much of the rest of this crag). Hayley despatched all the routes with ease. After lunch in the welcome sunshine, I then misread my printed topo - I thought I was on the f6b line of the Big A55 arete. I was actually on the 6c line of The Whole of the Law. I backed off this, then led what I thought was a 5+, but was actually the f6c Prelude to a Pint. This was obviously a new addition and had very little traffic, very few ascents. It goes up an extremely dubious corner crack to a strenuous layback/jamming crack on sharp rock. A mantel gains a sloping ledge, which is hard and technical to leave: fingery moves on small sloping holds. By the time I'd moved above the ledge, it was obvious this wasn't 5+! But I was committed and quite enjoyed the more solid rock of the slabby upper wall. It was far harder, more sustained and more technical than it looked, and was basically at my upper leading limit. However, I managed it all cleanly and on sight. It was a little friable in places - indeed, there is a very dangerous loose flake just left of the line - but it should settle down with traffic. The route kept coming, small holds and intricate climbing, up to a final awkward steepening where I ran out of quick draws! A hard to clip screwgate sufficed for the final mantel. Hayley then did a superb job of following the line and removing the gear: a vague traverse so a tad intimidating. I then did the arete line. Again, a horrible lower section, but the arete itself gives excellent climbing. A hard move off the ledge gives access to a quite technical series of rockovers pushing up blindly to pinch holds on the arete itself and small positive face holds. Half a grade harder, though, so if the arete is 6c, 'Prelude' is probably 6b+. Again, harder and more strenuous than it looked: but I managed it cleanly, very satisfying. We then walked down to the lower tier, a long way below! I thought that Kato would make an ideal lead for Hayley, and so it did: pleasant and positive. The twin slab routes of Samoa and Playboys were short but neat (also a bit wet): delicate and technical moves, particularly the thin right-hand line up to the obvious 'boil'. We were running out of time, so I finished with a lead of Hitachi Arete, a nice 6a+ up the blunt central arete. Far better than it looks, with excellent balancey moves on flat holds. A big climb back through the quarries to the Sychnant Pass, then drove to the Collie for a shortened version of the usual run.

Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Frodsham Wobbler race

Race: Robbie Webster Wobbler, Frodsham (6m/400m)
Time/Position: 40.31 (11th from 79)
The narrow twisting paths and short steep climbs characteristic of the sandstone hills above Frodsham and Helsby are quite familiar as a training ground: it is a fairly frequent stop for me on the way back from work. But incorporating them into a fast and furious new race, which hovered somewhere between cross-country and fell race in style, gave me a rather different perspective on the landscape! The hills are short and sharp so the pace was fast from the start, which went from Frodsham up to a short loop round Beacon Hill and top of the woods, then all the way along towards Woodhouses Hill. A longer climb up this before various additional climbs led back to the finish on Beacon Hill. The nature of the race meant there was a lot of place changes, all quite exciting, but as usual I finished at the back of a large and fairly closely matched group battling for the minor places. This is the first year the race has been opened up, and it is an excellent addition to the calendar, with a great post-race spread in Helsby.

Saturday, August 16, 2014

Race the Train

Race: Race the Train, Tywyn (14m)
Time/Position: 1.36.21 (40th from 780)
Eight years since I last did this race, when I narrowly missed beating the train in atrocious weather. Entered this year at the last minute, thinking it might make a nice family day out (coincidentally my third visit to Meirionydd in five days). The race went reasonably well, but (inevitably) I found the cross-country pace hard to handle after a summer running and racing in the mountains. It is always hard to make this kind of transition and although I felt good on the road out of Tywyn and the early flattish running through the fields I began to struggle a bit as we approached half way (conscious that we had enjoyed a tailwind for the first half). Ted from Wrexham caught and ran with me for a big chunk of this section, and I finally started to feel fairly strong as we got onto the narrow sheep tracks that mark the start of the tough second half. We started to pass a few runners, although I slowed a bit on the steep stair climb out of the delectable Dolgoch falls. None of the climbs last long, though, so I was able to hold on even though my complete lack of recent speed training was beginning to tell. I was reasonably pleased with my time, beating the train by 12 minutes, but finished well down a fairly strong field with runners from across the UK.

Friday, August 15, 2014

Ogwen/Conwy climbing

Crag: Braich y Ddeugwm, Ogwen
Routes: Hollt (VD:led), Recess Left (HS 4a:led), Hollt Lydan (S 4a:led), Grisiau (S:led)
Crag: Penmaenbach Quarry, Conwy
Routes: Kato (f5+:led), National Disaster (f6a:led)
Another Friday in 'instructor' mode, this time with Steve T. All very enjoyable, however: I selected the outcrop style crag above the farm in Ogwen as an ideal starting point and rather enjoyed the short undistinguished climbs, despite the fact that my last Snowdonian climb was uber-classic Diagonal a month ago! The weather was disappointing, but the rain had stopped by the time I led the short VD on the left of the crag, demonstrating gear placements. Recess Left was an overgraded HS with a steep initial move leading to an easy groove, while Hollt Lydan was a longer route on the clean slabs further right. It has a rather tricky crux step right to gain a wider crack. After Grisiau, a polished staircase which leads to a smooth groove, the rain began in earnest (even though it had seemed to be clearing) so we evacuated and headed to the coast in search of sunshine. I tried to take the steep and vegetated walk up to Penmaenbach Quarry (on the side of Conwy mountain) as slowly as possible, mindful of saving energy for tomorrow's Race the Train. I have only climbed up here once before, and a fair amount of rebolting and cleaning has gone on since then. Kato is now a nice clip-up, rather 'slate-like' with neat edging up to an enjoyable flake. Probably no more than f5. National Disaster is trickier than it looks, on sloping holds with two technical moves round mild overlaps. Again, somewhat reminiscent of the slate quarries. Steve was satisfied with this, and I was still tired after the Rhinogs, so we settled for a short day. Probably worth a return trip to sample the longer routes on the upper levels.

Monday, August 11, 2014

Rhinog Traverse (Barmouth-Trawsfynydd)

Peaks: Craig y Grut, Diffwys, Crib y Rhiw, Y Llethr, Rhinog Fach, Rhinog Fawr, Clip, Craig Ddrwg, Moel Ysgyfarnogod, Foel Penolau, Diffwys, Moel y Gyrafolen (23m+/7000ft+)
Area: Y Rhinogau, Eryri
The Rhinogs are always billed as the roughest mountains and wildest terrain in Wales. This is true, but only really applies to the northern end beyond Rhinog Fawr (where I would amend the description to the roughest terrain in the UK, including Knoydart with which it is often compared). The full ridge traverse gives a fabulous and varied mountain day, well suited to a running approach. Peter had wanted to do it for years, and I have only done shorter versions of it in the past (indeed, this was only my fifth ever visit to the Rhinogs). It's quite a committing undertaking, and requires two cars. So, after meeting up, we began from the far side of Barmouth, jogged into town, then up the steep hill that leads to Dinas Oleu. A complex system of heathery paths then leads up to Barmouth Slabs and eventually, after much weaving around, gains the main ridge line which leads ultimately to an unnamed top near Bwlch Cwmmaria. The weather was great initially: bracing winds, blue skies, tremendous sea views down over Ardudwy. It was a little more threatening ahead, as dark clouds raced across Cader and covered the Rhinog ridge. We had decided on the harder and slightly less logical S-N direction because of the 40mph south-westerlies, but it was essentially a crosswind, and we had to use the wall that marks the crest of the ridge to shelter from the strong gusts. The ridge is superbly runnable, over Bwlch y Rhiwgyr and several subsidiary hills above remote Cwm Bodlyn to Craig y Grut then the first real summit: Diffwys, after 1.40 of running and a good 11-12k from Barmouth. Some mist and strong wind as we the terrain then becomes more dramatic and rocky. Excellent fast running down to a col then steeply up to the undistinguished highpoint of the range, Y Llethr. Then comes the scenic highlight and one of Wales' finest views - the high mountain lake of Llyn Hywel, with the slabs and ridges of Rhinog Fach rising beyond. Steep running down the screes gains a little ridge above the lake then a steep scramble with a head-crosswind battering us continually. I have a memory of doing the South Ridge (a mild rock climb) here, perhaps 24 years ago. Tendrils of mist added to the drama, then a little drizzle as we lost the path for the first time on the descent to Cwmhosan. This cost us time and energy: sliding down wet chimneys and flogging through Rhinog heather and scree until we gained the better path to Bwlch Drws Ardudwy, perhaps the best defined mountain col in Wales (it would be described as a 'Tor' in German!). A boggy crossing on a vague path leads to the tenuous onward route up Rhinog Fawr. This is quite a slog, but felt enjoyable as I still had good legs and felt fresh. We gained the top of Fawr a little over 3.5 hours after leaving Barmouth and were making very good time despite our error on the last descent. But, the difficult terrain lay ahead! Took a bearing on the summit in thick mist, but this cleared quite quickly on the looping descent to Llyn Du and the Roman Steps (a tricky scramble down to gain Bwlch Tyddiad). Then the character of the traverse changes and you enter the untracked and very awkward terrain of the Northern Rhinogs. Fortunately, Peter and I were in good spirits and equally matched in terms of pace for this hard section. Some running up to Llyn Morwynion, then the very awkward terrain and route finding through the canyons west of Craig Wion. The ridge is cut in numerous places by these 'canyons' that run laterally and so are unavoidable. They make for exhausting progress and complex route finding, through waist deep bracken, heather and boulders. Drasdo's description of a 'splendid mile of Celtic badlands' is as good as any. Eventually we gained flat marshy ground leading to the boulder field on Clip: this gave some welcome steep scrambling, as we took a direct line on rock straight to the cairn and views of Tremadog and Llyn. The end of the ridge was still miles away, and I was beginning to feel the first signs of fatigue as we ran over Bwlch Gwilym to Craig Ddrwg. Superb terrain past Llyn Corn and Du - boulder fields and open rock - then the sharp climb up Moel Ysgyfarnogod and some familiar terrain (I have been up these last two peaks before). Over the turreted and unique top of Foel Penolau, then the end of the ridge over Diffwys and Gyrafolen, with Trawsfynydd below. Tired now, after 6.5 hours of running and walking, we picked a truly appalling descent direct over Craig Fawr to the lake at Tyn Twll. Ferns above head height, brambles, boulders and hidden drops: I have done some nasty descents in my time but this must qualify as the worst ever. Ungrazed wilderness. We aimed for a copse and slightly less impenetrable vegetation, then followed a stream to gain a field and the road for a two mile run back to the car. After a pint in Llanuwchllyn, I began to look forward to my next Rhinog trip and a dramatic contrast in style and exertion: back to camp in Cae Gwyn with Rob tomorrow, followed by a ramble up to Llyn Hywel.

Friday, August 08, 2014

Castle Inn/Marian Bach climbing

Crag: Castle Inn
Routes: Wilderness Wall (f5a:led), Butterfly Blue (f4:led), Birthday Boy (f5a:sec), School Mam (f6a:led), Comeback Kid (f4:sec), Indian Summer (f6a+:sec)
Crag: Marian Bach
Routes: Route 1 (f4c:led), Route 3 (f5:led), Route 9 (f5c:led), Route 7 (f6a:led), Route 10 (f5c:sec), Route 13 (f5c:led), Route 14 (f6a:sec), Route 12 (f6a+:led*)
Marian Bach is a newly bolted crag, and as is the way with these things in the UK, not exactly a classic venue. However, it was better than I'd expected it to be: good rock in places and a handful of decent climbs. We started on the small crags at Castle Inn though, as it was only Hayley's second time climbing outside. The three routes on Wilderness Wall, slabby and relaxing, were ideal starting points and she completed her first ever lead with no problems. I then led the slightly overgraded School Mam on the main face: done many times before, a good route with technical climbing up to a steep section which is far easier than it looks. After a bite, we bushwhacked around to the hidden and secretive Marian Bach, a much quieter venue. The routes are a little vegetated and look a little loose, but seemed to be fairly sound. Route 3 is a bolted steep corner, rather naughty by UK standards, although it's not as if anyone else would ever have come here without the bolts. Good bridging, big holds. To the right is a bigger and much cleaner steep face: quite good limestone, with the best routes here. Route 9 was a surprisingly tricky wall between two cracks, while Route 7 is perhaps the best route here. It traverses left on blocky rock to a well-positioned arete and nice finish, a touch overgraded at f6a. Hayley was climbing very well, a natural, and having no problems: so I suggested she lead Route 10, another nice route on the vegetated slabby face to the right, with a tricky and delicate crux at the top. Finally, at the far right of the crag was a cleaned wall with an overhang. I led the enjoyable steep wall on good holds direct (Route 13), then did another decent route (14) to its right: a delicate traverse to a crucial foothold which allows the overhang to be passed to the upper wall, rather like a miniature version of Tremadog's Fang! Finished with a steep and tricky f6a+, then went back to Castle Inn in glorious sunshine, where Hayley led the arete and we both did the excellent Indian Summer (led before) on rough rock at a mildly technical f6a+. Then it was a quick drive for coffee in Mold before joining the run up Moel Famau.

Sunday, August 03, 2014

Tour de Montlhery run

Our motel in Linas on the edge of Paris looked out across a surprising number of wooded hills, one of which is topped by the famous C13 Tour (Tower) of Montlhery. After a quick family sightseeing trip to Paris, I enjoyed a relaxed run through Linas and into the old walled town of Montlhery, finally working out a way to get up to the Tower, which was unfortunately closed but had far-reaching views.

Friday, August 01, 2014

Cote d'Azur road cycling

Road Cycling: Esterel-Agay-Corniche d'Or-Antheor-Esterel
Distance: 40k
This is one of the most scenic and glamorous rides anywhere in Europe. Sadly, I didn't have time to enjoy the superbly enjoyable loop that I devised in 2011 (via Cannes and the Col de Testanier) but had to settle for a ride down to Agay then along the coast to the most spectacular views beyond Antheor. The contrast of the deep blue sea and the towering red rocks of the Esterel is at its most impressive here. Warm evening weather, fantastic cycling.