Monday, April 27, 2009

London Marathon

Race: London Marathon
Time/Position: 3:13:46 (2075/38000)

About 20 minutes down on my target time, conclusively proving (for me anyway!) that you can't train for a road marathon by doing long runs and races in the hills. So all rather disappointing, although it was still an enjoyable day with the usual fantastic and memorable atmosphere. Met Neil at the 'fast good for age' start at the front of the race and therefore got away with no obstacles in sunny, warm weather. The first half went reasonably well, consistent target pace, in 1:28:46 (almost the same as Edinburgh). I instinctively knew that it wasn't in my legs, though, as they started to protest at the flat pounding (for which I hadn't trained) at mile 14. Much earlier than I'd expected to have problems, so I stopped, drank a bottle of water, ate my only gel along with a few sweets, and felt a bit better. I lost loads of time during this bad patch, but this had the pleasing effect of making the final 8 miles or so a lot of fun. No pressure, way off PB, so I just enjoyed the fabulous atmosphere, saw all my family and tried to at least get a respectable time. My eleventh marathon, and third London.

Friday, April 24, 2009

Trevor climbing

Crag: Trevor Quarry
Routes: My Route (VS 4b), The Fat Controller (S 4a), The Thin Controller (VS 4a)

A rather rushed climbing trip yesterday evening. Didn't actually get started on the first route until 7pm. Dale lead, up the centre of the main Trevor quarry face (My Route, VS 4b). It was a pretty unpleasant affair, very loose in places, although it did take an appealingly direct line. We then scurried off to the Railway Buttress, where I lead The Fat Controller - a short, easy, but pleasant S 4a. Simple bridging, well protected, leads to a little bulge and the top. Dale finished off with The Thin Controller (VS 4a) in fading light. Virtually dark as I seconded up it. Had a little jog before the climbing, and a jog back to the car - a very easy week in preparation for Sunday's marathon.

Saturday, April 18, 2009

Moelwyn fell race

Race: Ras y Moelwyn (10.5m/2800ft)
Peaks: Moelwyn Mawr (2525ft/770m), Moelwyn Bach (2329ft/710m), Moel yr Hydd (2126ft/648m)
Time/Position: 1:35:36 (23/116)

A hugely enjoyable day out on this classic mountain race: wonderfully varied with a nice community atmosphere. The weather was perfect, which always helps: sunny, clear, but reasonably cool. The route is logical and appealing. It provides a bit of everything: steep climbs, grassy descents, rocky terrain, bogs, quarries. Nicely runnable from the start in Blaenau Ffestiniog up the tracks above Tanygrisiau to the old quarries in Cwm Orthin: a unique landscape. Past Llyn Cwmorthin to a long, rather hot but largely runnable climb above Rhosydd quarry - emerging from the industrial landscape to great views over to Cnicht, Wyddfa, Nantlle. After a bog trot, the east ridge of Moelwyn Mawr is steep but enjoyable. Then comes the very steep descent down over the rocky subsidiary summit and ridge of Craigysgafn, followed by the steep but short climb up Moelwyn Bach. Another steep descent down a rocky groove leads to a very fast descent over bog and grass to Llyn Stwlan. Along the dam wall to a steep climb leading to a plateau and the final shortish climb up Moel yr Hydd (possibly only the second time I've been up this peak, although most of the rest of the route is quite familiar). I was feeling quite good at this stage, but was deliberately slow and tentative on the rocky descents (given that London is only a week away!). An exhilerating final descent down a side valley (I sank waist-deep into a bog during this!) back to the lake and route of ascent. I settled for my position and just jogged back to the finish, despite being just behind a largish group, trying to save some energy for the forthcoming marathon. Probably not the wisest thing to have done one week before London, but I would have hated to have missed this.

Friday, April 17, 2009

Pot Hole climbing, Ffrith run

Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: The Dog (HVS 5b), Ceba (E1 5b), Canine Meander (E2 5b), Ego (E3 5c), Id (E3 5c), Right Wall (E1 5c)

Another attempt to improve strength and endurance before our imminent Provence trip. As with the previous Pot Hole visit, Vic and I just worked our way along the crag for two hours of top-roping with mimimal rest. Started with the classic of the crag, done several times before, The Dog (HVS 5b). Always enjoyable, nice finger jams and small face holds lead to the juggy, easy upper crack. Followed this with the 'other classic', Ceba (E1 5b) - slightly tougher, but great finger pockets and a hardish crux over the little roof. Canine Meander (E2 5b) feels technically easier, very good gently sustained climbing but no real problems with the rope above: probably my favourite route here. Upped the standard considerably with Ego (E3 5c). I've never done this before, and it feels like possibly the hardest route on the crag. Nicely up sharp edges to a difficult crux to gain the break below the little roof. Just about made the move with a very long reach. We finished with Id (E3 5c) which was surprisingly straitforward (with rope above!). Excellent rough edging and small holds: a good climb. Right Wall (E1 5c) felt harder, possibly because I was tiring: tricky face moves to gain the easier crack. Lovely evening sunshine, felt good to be back on more technical routes. Jogged back to the car, just in time for the Famau run in beautiful weather. Given tomorrow's Moelwyn race, we ran up to Ffrith mountain, then around the forest roads to the normal descent. Probably the same distance as the normal route to the top: but a little less climbing!

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Buckley 5k

An unofficial 5k pb last night on the course from Alltami to the edge of Northop Hall - 17:07. Felt quite good in ideal evening conditions, and was able to keep the pace up until the end, although I couldn't quite dip under 17 mins. This course is apparently accurately measured, although it is admittedly very fast with numerous downhill sections.

Monday, April 13, 2009

Llandegla MTB

Mountain bike route: Llandegla black run
Distance/climb:21k/400m

An enjoyable blast around the black run at Llandegla in the mist this morning. First bike outing for Rich and I for several months, and only the second time I've ever done the black route. It does add a surprising amount of extra riding to the normal red route and is considerably steeper and more interesting. Seemed to be some new sections on red and black runs. Rode the full route fairly comfortably in a little under two hours: the drop-offs seemed a lot less steep than last time, and the climbs are quite staggered if a bit slippy and awkward in places. Particularly enjoyed the deliciously smooth, flowing descents on the initial black section: the bike's poor suspension didn't spoil it for once.

Sunday, April 12, 2009

Dinas Cromlech climbs

Crag: Dinas Cromlech
Routes: Dives/Better Things (HS 4a,4b), Sabre Cut (VS 4c,4b)

A splendid few hours on two classic climbs in perfect spring weather yesterday. Probably 17 years or so since my last visit to Dinas Cromlech, so it was especially good to get back on two famous routes. The first pitch of Dives was nice and steady: up a surprisingly steep crack to good sharp holds, before a wet undercut traverse on unusual rock - below a black overhang with plenty of gear - led to the belay on the Forest. Vic then merged the easy middle pitch (the juggy crack on Spiral Stairs) with the surprisingly awkward groove. This is a fine pitch: steep and in an exceptional position, a mixture of relatively easy jamming and bridging. After an awkward descent, Vic then led both pitches of Sabre Cut. The first goes up the steep crack right of Dives, with one enjoyable hardish move up right to gain vegetated slabs and the Forest belay. The final corner crack is excellent - thought provoking and quite sustained but with good, often incut, holds and interesting solutions never far away.

Friday, April 10, 2009

Clwydian run

Ambitious plans for a tripartite day of mountain biking, rock climbing and fell running had to be abandoned due to the weather. So I took the opportunity for a final longish training run, back and forth along the leat for around 5 or 6 miles before joining the normal run up Moel Famau in improving conditions. Around 12-13 hilly miles in total, my final longish run before the Moelwyn race and London.

Thursday, April 09, 2009

Chester Spring 5 road race

Race: Chester Spring 5m
Time/Position: 29:28 (30/347)

I was inexplicably slow in my two previous runnings of this race, and wasn't very optimistic for this given that my long recent efforts at Edale and Rhayader were still in my legs. So I was quite pleased to at least put in a respectable performance, albeit 40 seconds or so slower than 'fresh legs' might have achieved. As is often the case for this race, a lovely sunny spring evening and a nice atmosphere. We'd had a family walk across Waun y Llyn in a gale earlier on, but it had dropped to a stiff breeze by evening. Followed up with a run up Hope Mountain in the mist this morning.

Tuesday, April 07, 2009

Holyhead Mountain

Crag: Holyhead Mountain
Routes: Wally's Folly (VD:led), Pigeon Hole Crack (S4a:sec), Primrose Hill Gutter (M:sol), Plimsole (D:led p.1), New Boots and Panties (S4a:led), Mrs Murdock (S4a:sec), Slab Direct (VD:led)

An enjoyable climbing session at a new venue for me. A very good crag too: with confidence-boosting, easy, well-protected climbs the order of the day. Unfortunately, although we missed the showers all day, a cold wind made life a little uncomfortable and tricky at times. Wally's Folly (VD) was a nice, steady start up a ramp, groove and crack towards the left of the crag. Pigeon Hole Crack (S4a), led by Alwyn, was a little better: slabby and enjoyable. Desperate to get out of the wind, we secreted ourselves in the fun, old-fashioned chimney of Plimsole (D). I led up big blocks and flakes to a mercifully windless niche. Then Alwyn led up the easy quartz crack to the top. New Boots and Panties (S4a) upped the grade a bit, and was a pleasing lead for me. Scrappily up to a pinnacle, then a gently sustained diagonal crack up the sharp, rough quartzite typical of this crag. Mrs Murdock (S4a) takes the corner crack to the right. Finished with a lead of the easy long pitch, Slab Direct (VD), to the right of the crag: a simple slab leads to an enjoyable slabby groove.

Friday, April 03, 2009

Rock and run

Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: Selva (VS4a), Selva Variant (VS4c), Cristallo (HS), Cristallo Variant (VS4c), Murren (HS), The Watzmann (VS4b), Tre-Ffynnon (VS4b), Un-aided (VS4b), Grizzly (VS4b), Vetta (HVS5a)

Tired after Edale and Rhayader, so a deliberately quiet week. I'd recovered somewhat by Tuesday, so enjoyed some bouldering on Hope Mountain followed by a brief jog. Ran across the Bryn Alyn hills yesterday, followed by more bouldering at Pot Hole, and followed this up this afternoon with a more extensive cragging trip. Vic and I just worked our way along the crag in warm sunny weather, trying to build up some strength for the forthcoming Provence cragging trip. Just top-roping, with minimal rest between climbs. Started up Selva (VS 4a), then the variant left (VS 4c), followed by the easy Cristallo (HS) and variant (VS 4c). Then the gentler crack line of Murren HS, followed by the relatively unscratched duo of The Watzmann (VS 4b) and Tre-Ffynnon (VS 4b). Couldn't remember doing these two before. Finished with three old favourites, all done many times before: Un-aided (VS 4b), Grizzly (VS 4c), Vetta (HVS 5a). Un-aided was one of my first ever climbs, 20 years ago: now very polished! Felt good to be back on steepish rock. After about 2.5 hours, we left for the run up Moel Famau in warm, hazy conditions. Always tiring to run after climbing, and this was no exception.