Carneddau scramble, Wrexham 10 mile race

An active weekend, but marred by the reappearance of my knee problem. Managed a quick trip to Snowdonia with Rich in poor weather: rain sweeping down Ogwen as we arrived. So we abandoned plans for a roped scramble, and instead headed up into Cwm Lloer. But the weather began to clear slightly as we entered the cwm, so we had a bash at the obscure Broad Gully Ridge (I/II). Moved through the cwm to the base of Broad Gully (climbed with Tim in perfect winter conditions in 1993!). Up this to just below the 'pitch', then a wet traverse left on a sloping gangway to a flake. Above, the rock was hopelessly greasy so we traversed further left and tried a horribly wet and vegetated gully which led to a very narrow cleft. This was fortunately just wide enough to pull out of, and led to an easy couloir and some intermittent scrambling on the ridge to join the normal east ridge at the top of the gully. Then over Pen yr Olau Wen and along with ridge to Carnedd Dafydd in low cloud, rain and strong winds: unpleasant. Took a bearing and scurried back to Ffynnon Lloer and the car. Next day, did the Wrexham 10 mile road race (North Wales championships), my 100th official race. Was going very well until 7 miles (exact 6 min 10 secs pace) but then blew up catastrophically, no idea why. Limped home in just over 64 minutes, very disappointing. Warmed down to take the mileage up to 14 for the day. But then felt my knee problems come back on a 6 miler the next day. Now I'm worried again...

Eglwyseg climbs, running improves

A relatively promising week for running, although still feeling tired. Knee has improved considerably. Managed an average intervals session on Tuesday and felt quite good on my 10k this morning. Last night, paid another visit to Trevor Rocks with Dale, again in perfect climbing conditions of beautiful spring sunshine. Led Catch the Pigeon, a rather good, long 4+ over two overlaps with a tricky crux right at the top. Then seconded Ant Hill Mob (5) and made a hash of Prof Pat Pending (6a+) to its left. Bit more daylight now, so moved down to the new Wings area (as last week) to lead Merlin Magic, a long and easy 4 up loose jugs. Then, in fading light, one of the new very loose routes to the right.

Knee improves, new rock climb

After a trip to the physio last Wednesday, I was reassured about my knee. Managed six miles on the Thursday, and the Colomendy run up Moel Famau on Friday with no real problems beyond a slight niggle. A short jog on Saturday then a pleasing 12 miler yesterday - around Llay, Rossett and Burton - suggest I should be OK. Also went to the crag I've discovered on Hope Mountain and shunted the most obvious line, which climbs the open corner towards the right of the crag. Not bad at all, certainly a valid route, maybe 35ft high, steep and juggy on a sort of honeycombed sandstone. All rather dirty, dusty and vegetated - but again considering this is almost certainly the first ascent, not too bad. The route, which I've called Beyond Hope (the pun was too obvious to avoid) goes at around Severe, or a tad harder. Steep jugs and bridging gain an uncomfortable ledge, then an awkward bulge gains a big hold on the right wall (in which there is a convenient crack), with bridging to finish. Good belays on top too.

New climbs at Eglwyseg

Managed to get a few routes done yesterday evening in beautiful crisp, clear sunshine. Went to the newly developed area of Trevor with Dale Berry: outside the bird ban left of Fudd Walls. Possibly the largest crag in the area, so longish routes. We began with a lead of Raptor Rap (f4+), a nondescript route on flat holds. Then Sgrech yr Hebog (f5+), up a shallow groove line. Both appropriately named (a peregrine circled just above our heads throughout this climb). Scratching the surface (f5) was probably the best route, another lead: a coherent line up the steep central groove then the overlap to a nice slab. Finished with Co-ed in the Coed (f5) on the far left: an awkward wall leads to another slab. Not exactly classic climbing, but more routes here are always welcome. Lovely spot in the evening, the sun gradually dropping behind velvet hills.

Llanberis slate climbs

An efficient climbing trip yesterday evening. Polished off all nine of the new bolted routes at Dali's Hole on the slate above Dinorwic in less than 2.5 hours with Alwyn. Only my second ever day on the slate (first was in 1993 I think!). Good, slabby routes - quite technical in places. Kicked off with a lead of Tolerance, an easy f5. Then led Mon Amie, f5+. Small holds take some getting used to, but this style of delicate climbing always was easier for me (and everybody else!). Then did the two very simple f4's - Kinder Sport and Emerald Dyke. Then two good routes up the full height of the main face, both with good moves and interesting climbing. La Grandpere (f5c), possibly overgraded, and the better Pour Tout le Monde (f5c). Alwyn led Le Grandmere (f5a), rather short. Finished by upping the grade to take in Le Petit Pois (f6a+), a tiny one-move wonder with a technical start. Then led La Gendre (f6a+) - the best climb here, taking the grooves on the left edge of the face by way of some very interesting moves. Great stuff. Ran up Moel Famau from Colomendy with Neil on Friday night, but then detected the first signs of the dreaded ITBS (lateral knee pain) on a Saturday morning run. Came back again during a nine-miler on Sunday, around Llay and Burton. Will try intervals tonight, but am very worried this could put me out of running action for a bit.

Eglwyseg climbing

Managed to get a few climbs in on Wednesday evening. Just about enough light for four climbs between 6.30 and 8ish, with Dale Berry. Led the easy groove of SMD on the Suspect Walls at Trevor - just one move at the start, then easy plodding. Seconded the arete of Clue, So - again. Then led Disappearing Act (5+), a good strong line with nice climbing, up the obvious corner left of Clue, So. Nicely up the groove, then good positive holds over the small roof to a slabby finish. Very little arm strength! Finished seconding Forensic Science as the sun disappeared and things got rather chilly. Good to get out on the rock again. Had a 3 mile jog along the panorama prior to this. Legs feel fine after the marathon, so time to up the mileage again.

Paris marathon

A pleasing performance in the Paris marathon on Sunday - a tremendous event, great support and surroundings, particularly the mass start on the Champs Elysses. Finished in 3:09:22, a big PB and a good platform to go all out for sub-3 at Edinburgh in late May. Ran a very comfortable race, even achieving the fabled negative split (ran the second half about 2 seconds quicker than first half!), in ideal cool conditions. Probably stayed too far within comfort zone, didn't really suffer until last 3 or 4k, so picked up hundreds of places over final 15k. Will push much harder in Edinburgh - which will be my 10th marathon. Met Dave and his Penny Lane pals after the race, then had a long walk round the city, including a Louvre visit, with m and d. A flight cancellation meant I had to go back via Glasgow, 26 hours later than planned. Tiring.

Chester Spring 5 race

What was intended as a final sharpener/confidence boost before the marathon had exactly the opposite effect last night. Just couldn't get going in this evening 5 mile race, and limped home in 30:30. No idea what the problem was. Will have a short trot today, then rest up until Paris.