Wednesday, October 15, 2008

Eglwyseg climbing

Crag: Trevor rocks, Eglwyseg
Routes/grade: Clue, So? (f4: led), Forensic Science (f5: led), Forever the Suspect (f6a+: sec), Fudd for Thought (f5: led), Haven't got a clue (f6a: led), SND (f4: sec)

First real climbing for several months this evening, with Alwyn on the bolted routes at Trevor. Conditions were hardly ideal: a cold wind meant cold hands, which along with inevitably muddy shoes and damp, greasy rock made life difficult. In addition, these routes are becoming very polished, despite their less than classic nature, but I suppose the reason is obvious. Started with a steady lead of Clue, So (f4) in a cold wind, then led Forensic Science (f5) with muddy shoes (another route I'd done before). Clumsily seconded Forever the Suspect (f6a+), delicate and technical. This is one of the better routes here, but conditions were poor for this sort of climbing: small, sharp holds hard to feel in the cold wind, and I took several rests. Lots of drainage streaks made most routes impossible, but I did manage a lead of Fudd for Thought (f5). Short and slabby, complete with seepage and therefore awkward. Finished with a reasonable lead of Haven't got a clue (f6a with one bolt grab in slippery conditions). Nice calcite rock, little pinch grips, but all over after 10m. Finished with SND (f4), and followed up with a run from Trevor up and over Dinas Bran, past the castle and down to the old race route contouring the hill to climb back up to Panorama. Nice autumunal scenes, but always exhausting to run after climbing (esp given intervals yesterday).

1 comment:

DIPL said...

Hi Si
Caught up with your blog again.

You express disappointment with your times but it's not surprising when you cram in so much activity.
Take care. See you soon.
Lol D and M