North Buttress, Tryfan

Peaks: Tryfan
Routes: North Buttress (D) Led p.1,2,3,4
The sustained period of high pressure and decent winter climbing conditions ended just as my leave kicked in. Rather annoying, but a nice forecast meant a possibility of rock climbing with Alwyn. In the event, the weather was not ideal: snow patches, low cloud and a strengthening westerly wind. So took the bold decision to go for a long route on the east face, in an attempt to stay out of the wind and retain some feeling in our hands. I think North Buttress was among the first multi-pitch climbs I ever did, 17 years ago almost to the day. It's a nice easy route, ideal in these rather marginal conditions. I led off up the first groove, which was wet except for the holds on the edge of the groove. Didn't waste much time as my hands were losing all feeling, but enjoyed the big holds and unique Tryfan atmosphere. A steep rib above the groove leads interestingly to the stance. Also led the second pitch up a crack in the next groove, followed by a traverse left to a higher rib. The third pitch was soaking wet, but easy. We then scrambled up to Terrace Wall on wet snow and old neve. Far too cold and snowy to continue, obvious risk of verglas, so continued up North Gully. This was a tad awkward, in trainers on old frozen snow patches, but also satisfying. The summit was windy and verglassed, so we retreated down the south ridge and back along the terrace. Agonising hot flushes as the blood returned to my fingers.