Peaks: Craig y Grut, Diffwys, Crib y Rhiw, Y Llethr, Rhinog Fach, Rhinog Fawr, Clip, Craig Ddrwg, Moel Ysgyfarnogod, Foel Penolau, Diffwys, Moel y Gyrafolen (23m+/7000ft+)
Area: Y Rhinogau, Eryri
The Rhinogs are always billed as the roughest mountains and wildest terrain in Wales. This is true, but only really applies to the northern end beyond Rhinog Fawr (where I would amend the description to the roughest terrain in the UK, including Knoydart with which it is often compared). The full ridge traverse gives a fabulous and varied mountain day, well suited to a running approach. Peter had wanted to do it for years, and I have only done shorter versions of it in the past (indeed, this was only my fifth ever visit to the Rhinogs). It's quite a committing undertaking, and requires two cars. So, after meeting up, we began from the far side of Barmouth, jogged into town, then up the steep hill that leads to Dinas Oleu. A complex system of heathery paths then leads up to Barmouth Slabs and eventually, after much weaving around, gains the main ridge line which leads ultimately to an unnamed top near Bwlch Cwmmaria. The weather was great initially: bracing winds, blue skies, tremendous sea views down over Ardudwy. It was a little more threatening ahead, as dark clouds raced across Cader and covered the Rhinog ridge. We had decided on the harder and slightly less logical S-N direction because of the 40mph south-westerlies, but it was essentially a crosswind, and we had to use the wall that marks the crest of the ridge to shelter from the strong gusts. The ridge is superbly runnable, over Bwlch y Rhiwgyr and several subsidiary hills above remote Cwm Bodlyn to Craig y Grut then the first real summit: Diffwys, after 1.40 of running and a good 11-12k from Barmouth. Some mist and strong wind as we the terrain then becomes more dramatic and rocky. Excellent fast running down to a col then steeply up to the undistinguished highpoint of the range, Y Llethr. Then comes the scenic highlight and one of Wales' finest views - the high mountain lake of Llyn Hywel, with the slabs and ridges of Rhinog Fach rising beyond. Steep running down the screes gains a little ridge above the lake then a steep scramble with a head-crosswind battering us continually. I have a memory of doing the South Ridge (a mild rock climb) here, perhaps 24 years ago. Tendrils of mist added to the drama, then a little drizzle as we lost the path for the first time on the descent to Cwmhosan. This cost us time and energy: sliding down wet chimneys and flogging through Rhinog heather and scree until we gained the better path to Bwlch Drws Ardudwy, perhaps the best defined mountain col in Wales (it would be described as a 'Tor' in German!). A boggy crossing on a vague path leads to the tenuous onward route up Rhinog Fawr. This is quite a slog, but felt enjoyable as I still had good legs and felt fresh. We gained the top of Fawr a little over 3.5 hours after leaving Barmouth and were making very good time despite our error on the last descent. But, the difficult terrain lay ahead! Took a bearing on the summit in thick mist, but this cleared quite quickly on the looping descent to Llyn Du and the Roman Steps (a tricky scramble down to gain Bwlch Tyddiad). Then the character of the traverse changes and you enter the untracked and very awkward terrain of the Northern Rhinogs. Fortunately, Peter and I were in good spirits and equally matched in terms of pace for this hard section. Some running up to Llyn Morwynion, then the very awkward terrain and route finding through the canyons west of Craig Wion. The ridge is cut in numerous places by these 'canyons' that run laterally and so are unavoidable. They make for exhausting progress and complex route finding, through waist deep bracken, heather and boulders. Drasdo's description of a 'splendid mile of Celtic badlands' is as good as any. Eventually we gained flat marshy ground leading to the boulder field on Clip: this gave some welcome steep scrambling, as we took a direct line on rock straight to the cairn and views of Tremadog and Llyn. The end of the ridge was still miles away, and I was beginning to feel the first signs of fatigue as we ran over Bwlch Gwilym to Craig Ddrwg. Superb terrain past Llyn Corn and Du - boulder fields and open rock - then the sharp climb up Moel Ysgyfarnogod and some familiar terrain (I have been up these last two peaks before). Over the turreted and unique top of Foel Penolau, then the end of the ridge over Diffwys and Gyrafolen, with Trawsfynydd below. Tired now, after 6.5 hours of running and walking, we picked a truly appalling descent direct over Craig Fawr to the lake at Tyn Twll. Ferns above head height, brambles, boulders and hidden drops: I have done some nasty descents in my time but this must qualify as the worst ever. Ungrazed wilderness. We aimed for a copse and slightly less impenetrable vegetation, then followed a stream to gain a field and the road for a two mile run back to the car. After a pint in Llanuwchllyn, I began to look forward to my next Rhinog trip and a dramatic contrast in style and exertion: back to camp in Cae Gwyn with Rob tomorrow, followed by a ramble up to Llyn Hywel.
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