Friday, September 29, 2017

Tremadog climbing

Crag: Bwlch y Moch, Tremadog
Routes: Christmas Curry (S:led p.1+2), Micah Eliminate (HS 4b:sec), Cynhyrchwyr (VS 4b,4b:led p.1), Borneo (VS 4c:sec)
To call Christmas Curry an old favourite is an understatement: I first did it in 1992 and last did it in April this year. After merging the first two pitches, Vic led the superior Micah Eliminate finish. We had Steve on board, hence our choice of this much travelled route, and we both simul-climbed with me able to give him a few pointers - as this was only his third or fourth experience of trad climbing. As a result, I had plenty of time to savour the moves and positions. A heavy shower made life a tad tricky, as did high winds when rounding the upper arete. After lunch, we moved right to try to find the obscure area around the ramp line of Borneo, recently salvaged from the vegetation. We had never climbed here before, and I led the wet first pitch of Cynhyrchwyr to begin our exploration. We've had a lot of rain recently, and this gets little sun: although it was easy and slabby, it was insecure. Two thin cracks, greasy and slimy, led to a drier and easier section. Above, glorious sunshine and easy padding to a gentle crack: this is possibly the top pitch of the neighbouring HS Rio, as it didn't feel VS. To the left, Borneo takes the obvious ramp line and is a route of some character. Most of it is slabby and easy, if a tad dirty. But there is a tricky slab at half height with technical moves up the corner then right to avoid a steepening. The crux comes at the end: a wet corner with undercut and interesting moves out right.

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