Tuesday, February 20, 2018

Vinales walk/run

I was keen to get out into the Cuban countryside, and Vinales - in the western Pinar del Rio province - seemed the best option, albeit a fairly predictable one. Its landscape is famous, and echoes parts of southern China and Thailand with its limestone spires rising from flat valley floors. These are called 'mogotes' locally, and my first view of the valley was a memorable one as my bus stopped near Los Jazmines, an old hotel with a fabulous view, still lit by the morning sun. The mogotes tower above the flat valley with tight 'gorges' radiating outwards - and in the foreground lush palms (the endemic mountain palms) and fig trees. Beyond, the low Sierra de los Organos mountains. Later that first day, I walked to the Cueva de la Vacha, admiring the superb rock scenery with some great looking routes going through the tufa pillars and stalactites, even meeting a French climbing pair looking for easy options (the only climbers I saw). The potential for new routes is vast. Today, I explored various corners of the region culminating in a jog from the Mirador near Los Jazmines down to the valley floor where I navigated a complex series of farm tracks through the tobacco plantations to emerge at the road below the impressive mogote at the head of the Dos Hermanos valley. From here I jogged up to the hideous eyesore known as the 'mural of prehistory' before getting the bus back to town after a long, dusty, sweaty wait. Refuelled with a cubanito, fresh lime juice and fried red snapper.

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